Ljubljana InYourPocket by Niko Slavnic

Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

April - May 2012

Ljubljana’s Best Museums & Galleries See the results of our recent arts and culture survey

Let’s go golfing! N°23 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

With a dozen courses within an hour’s drive, Ljubljana is quickly becoming a golfer’s paradise

NAMA DEPARTMENT STORE Nama is a department store right in the centre of Ljubljana. Over the years Nama has become one of the city’s major sights and a favourite shopping centre thanks to its great location and friendly staff.

Shoppi ng especia lly for you !

Opening hours: Mon – Fri: 8.30 – 20.00 Saturday: 9.00 – 20.00

A SPECIAL SPECIAL DISCOUNT DISCOUNT ONLY FOR YOU! As a tourist you are As a turist are entitled to ayou special entitled to 10% special 10% discount on clothes, discount on clothes, underwear, swimwear, underwear, swimwear, household goods and household products and bags. To take advantage bags. of the discount just provide a valid foreign ID! To enforce the discount please provide a valid foreig ID.

Contents

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Online

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Ljubljana

Getting around

Basics

Statistics, politics and where to find the loo

Culture & Events

Music, festivals and exhibitions Cultural centres and venues

13 17

Where to stay

Business suites to hostel bunks

Even graffiti artists love spring

Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat Everything from A to V(egetarian) Cafés Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes Nightlife Dance and drink the night away

What to see

29 31

Bridges, museums and the castle

Where to shop

The best of what and where to buy

Golf

Mobile

Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

So many courses, so little time!

The first signs of spring had already begun to appear as we went to print, so chances are by the time you read this the whole city will be covered in green (and various other colours), photo by B. Jovanović

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Directory

Lifestyle Business

46 47

Maps & Index City map City centre map

48 50 April - May 2012

in the news

Foreword As we go to print, the city is already beginning to turn green, temperatures have been consistently hovering around 20°C during the day and in general everything is as it should be at the start of our favourite season. Even in the political sphere things have returned to normal with the formation of a new national government (which is more or less the same as the one in power from 2004-2008) and the re-election of Ljubljana’s most popular ever mayor (see opposite). The months of April and May will also see the return of some of our favourite annual events, such as the Druga Godba Festival of international alternative music, the similar sounding yet completely different Godibodi Festival of contemporary folk music, the world’s largest graduation party/synchronised dance routine (aka the Maturanska Parada), and last but not least the Path of Remembrance Recreational Run, which is something of a solemn affair as far as runs go, as it traces the roughly 35km route of a razor-wire fence that separated Ljubljana from the countryside during the Second World War. See our Culture & Events chapter (pp 13-19) for more info on all of these and more. If you’re in town at the end of April or beginning of May, be aware that 27 April and 1-2 May are all workfree days, which means a not insignificant number of Ljubljana’s residents (ourselves included hopefully) will be enjoying the wondrous effects of global warming on a sandy beach somewhere. As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.

Cover story Only opened in the summer of 2010, Ljubljana’s Mesarski Most (or Butcher’s Bridge) has already formed a rather impressive collection of ‘love locks’ - attached to the bridge by newlyweds and young lovers to symbolise their everlasting love. Of course if/when that everlasting love comes to and end, it’s not something that a good pair of bolt cutters can’t fix!

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Ljubljana In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Eurograf Published Published six times per year Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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It has been a busy start to the year for In Your Pocket, with a brand new guide published in Italy (Cagliari), and many more in the early stages of production, including what will be our first guide in Belgium (Ghent). We have also just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can now be downloaded from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, Francisco Alvarez, Elliott Foxton Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourism, Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam, Tadej Mulej Cover photo Yuri Barron Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Biljana Maletič, Stanka Parkelj Rozina

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 4 -9, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Mayor Janković wins re-election

While the results of the 25 March poll were not yet official as we went to print, to the surprise of no one Ljubljana’s popular mayor Zoran Janković looks set to win another term in office with some 62% of the vote. In fact the election was more or less a formality and only made necessary when Janković officially gave up his position to run in the national parliamentary elections held back in December. Although his Pozitivna Slovenija party won the most seats, he was unable to form a coalition with the mostly career politicians in parliament, who despite being scandal-ridden, largely ineffective and/or personally unpopular are apparently rather adept at horse-trading and staying in power.

Best of Slovenia 2012 Every month we let our readers and Facebook fans vote on what they think are the best hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs, museums, galleries, cultural centres, ski resorts, spas, taxis, golf courses and more in Ljubljana and throughout Slovenia. Here are some of our recent winners accepting their awards:

Easter in Ljubljana

Although your average Slovene is not exactly a devout adherent to Catholicism, Easter (or Velika noč in Slovene), is still a major holiday in the country, and Easter Monday (falling on 9 April this year) is a work-free day. So if you’re visiting Ljubljana at this time you can expect it to be noticeably quieter than usual - although depending on the weather you may still have to elbow your way into a seat at one of the countless cafés along the Ljubljanica river. If you have the honour of being invited to someone’s home during Easter weekend - which is not incredibly likely given that it’s traditionally a time for family gatherings - be prepared to eat more or less continually for three days straight, as the weekend is informally referred to by many as ‘the Slovene eating holiday’. One Easter delicacy you have to try is potica, a rolled cake that can come with any number of fillings, most commonly a walnut or poppy seed paste. If you can’t get it homemade, it’s best purchased from smaller bakeries or the central market.

Ljubljana IYP on Facebook Can’t wait for the next issue of Ljubljana In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fi x o f snark y comments, travel and enter tainment news, restaurant and nightlife tips, and lots more random Ljubljanarelated info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations and videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best place on the web to ask questions you may have about the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

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International Museum Day 18.05 Friday

w w w. i c o m . m u s e u m . Started in 1977 to raise awareness of the importance that museums have i n th e d evel opm e n t o f society, participation has now spread to some 100 countries and a staggering 30,000 institutions. This year’s 36th iteration will be based on the theme ‘Museums in a Changing World: New challenges, new inspirations’, which recognises that institutions are nowadays faced with interpreting and existing in a field that is becoming increasingly fluid. What this means for you is that on 18 May all of Ljubljana’s museums and galleries will offer free admission, and also feature a programme of various workshops, demonstrations, lectures and new exhibition openings.

April - May 2012

Arriving in Ljubljana Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengenagreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

Getting around

A Word From Our Mayor

Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers costs only €1.20.

Arriving by plane Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) D-2, Slovenska

Arriving by train Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a train information bureau immediately to the right and currency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth. Welcome to Ljubljana! Zoran Janković Mayor

Arriving by bus

Arriving by car

All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slo-

venia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks.

Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Public Transport

56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si. Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Trains

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) E-1, Trg Osvo-

bodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@ slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station is just north of the main action. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English. QOpen 05:00 - 22:00.

Buses

Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg

Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana. si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either

If Things Go Wrong

Urbana Card

The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambulance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at University Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful Emergency Words:

The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodge-podge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers.

NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital

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end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

Car Rental The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

Al maha A-4, Tržaška 2 (Tobačna Building, 3rd Floor), tel. (+386) 30 622 862 (Eng/Slo)/(+386) 30 674 589 (Eng), fax (+386) 1 426 40 77, info@almaharentacar. com, www.almaharentacar.com. Located in the city centre, Almaha is one of the only low-priced car rental agencies in Ljubljana that you can easily walk to, meaning you can have a face-to-face conversation with staff before renting. However, they also conveniently offer delivery and pick-up services for free within 35km of the city, including Brnik Airport. Ask about special weekly rates being offered this summer. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-12:00. Avis D-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386)1 430 80 10, lji@avis.si, www.avis.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00. IdealRent Tel. (+386) 31 565 170, fax (+386) 4 2323 776, info@idealrent.si, www.idealrent.si. Sixt D-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, tel. (+386) 1 234 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.

Laguna Taxi J-1, Celovška 228, tel. (+386) 31 492 299/(+386) 1 511 23 14, fax (+386) 1 511 23 14, taxi. laguna@siol.net, www.taxi-laguna.com. One of Ljubljana’s more reputable taxi firms, Laguna Taxi operates over 100 different air-conditioned vehicles (including cars, vans and buses), and in addition to regular services can arrange transport throughout Slovenia and abroad. Different classes of service are available to meet clients’ needs, and friendly professional drivers speak a variety of foreign languages. Metro Taxi M-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. (+386) 80 11 90/(+386) 4 124 02 00, www.metroprevozi.net/ TaxiPrevozi.htm. Taxi Intertours L-2, Središka 4, tel. (+386) 1520 97 04, narocila.intertours@gmail.com, www.taxiintertours.si.

TEL.:+386 1 511 23 14, GSM:+386 31 492 299 WWW.TAXI-LAGUNA.COM

April - May 2012

Basics

Getting around Airport

Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)

Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386) 42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Airlines

Adria Airways (JP) I-1, Zgornji Brnik 130h, tel.

(+386)4 259 42 45, fax (+386)4 236 34 61, booking@adria.si, www.adria.si. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00. Call center for ticket reservations:+386 (0)1 36 91 010, Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00. Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.com. Flights to Prague. Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 4 206 16 77, www.easyjet.com. JAT Airways (JU) D-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 12 31 43 40, LjubljanaTO@jat.com, www.jat.com. QOpen

08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight. Lufthansa C-2, Gosposvetska 8, lufthansa@adria.si, www.lufthansa.de. Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 4 206 16 80, w w w.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul.

Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

150

Travel Agencies

120

fax (+386) 1242 00 06, info@avantura.si, www.avantura.si. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Collegium M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 12 34 49 70/(+386) 3 171 57 15, info@collegium.si, www.collegium.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kompas D-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1 200 63 33, fax (+386) 1 200 64 29, prazakova@kompas.si, www. kompas.si. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Mondial Travel M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 5 925 70 23/(+386) 3 171 57 16, info@mondialtravel. si, www.mondialtravel.sI. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Relax C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1 234 56 93, relax.lj@relax.si, www.relax.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. STA C-2/3, Trg Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 14 39 16 90/ (+386) 41 61 27 11, fax (+386) 14 39 16 95, info@ staljubljana.com, www.sta-lj.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PH Kapitelj E-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. (+386)1

25 25, fax (+386)59 133 611, turanus.shuttles@ gmail.com, www.turanus.com. This new Ljubljana-based transport company is a convenient and economical option for getting to and from Slovenia’s Brnik airport, as well as airports in nearby countries frequented by visitors and Slovenes alike. They also organises trips throughout Slovenia and neighbouring countries at prices that can be well-below those of public transport, while the exceedingly friendly owner is fluent in English and flexible with scheduling. Visit their English-language website for a comprehensive list of prices or to enquire about a reservation.

Turanus Bratovševa ploščad 38, tel. (+386)40 80

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Crime and safety Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Money Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate)

Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

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Area 20,273 square kilometres

If you’re looking for a cheap way to get around while in Ljubljana, you can give the city’s bike share programme a try - it’s free for the first hour of every use, but you need to register with a credit card

Avantura C-3, Slovenska 40, tel. (+386) 1242 00 00,

Transfers

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Climate

Parking Garages 360 36 48/(+386)51 366 510, phkapitelj@ kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Located along the Ljubljanica River beneath the modern Kapitelj and Urban Villa complex, which houses both shops, offices, residences and two embassies, the garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one. PH Meksiko F-2, Njegošova 4, tel. (+386)1 600 40 38/(+386)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjskaid.com, www.parkiraj.si. Only opened in 2010, the Mexico Parking Garage is a large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket. PH Šentpeter F-3, Zaloška 1, tel. (+386)1 430 59 02, phsentpeter@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj. si. Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces. PH Trdinova D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. (+386) 1 230 96 00/(+386) 5 136 65 10, phtrdinova@kranjskaid.com, www.parkiraj.si. Located in the very centre of the city, only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces. QAll garages open 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150.

Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km

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F M A M J

S O N D

Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007, and will likely run for re-election at the end of 2012. Early parliamentary elections in December 2011 brought the rather divisive former prime minister Janez Janša and his conservative party back to power.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.33 US$ = 0.84 UK£ = 1.20 CHF = 8.36 CNY = 109 ¥ = 39 руб (23 March 2012)

Market values Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product McDonald’s Big Mac Slice of pizza Slice of burek Cup of coffee Bottle of name brand vodka Decent bottle of local wine Bottle of local beer in a shop Pint of beer in a pub Pack of cigarettes Single bus ride Movie ticket Postcard Litre of petrol Taxi ride across town Fine for parking illegally

Price €2.40 € 1.80 € 2.00 € 1.10 € 12.50 € 3.50 € 0.90 € 2.70 € 2.80 € 1.20 € 4.90 € 0.30 € 1.49 € 5.00 € 40

April - May 2012

history Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC when the Celts started arriving. Roman times With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other early Germanic tribes.

Culture & Events Between the wars After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia becomes part of the State, and then the Kingdom of the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (18721957) builds many of his most important buildings in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

16th to 18th Centuries Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in 1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.

Socialism & Yugoslavia Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23, 1990.

19th Century Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town is preserved practically intact.

Independence & Beyond After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar, is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU presidency for half a year.

Medieval Ljubljana Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.

Clockwise from top left: Estelle performs at Kino Šiška in May, as does Zola Jesus in April, while Martin Solveig headlines the Red Spring Party at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre, and legendary thrashers Megadeath come to town at the beginning of June

Music

08.04 Sunday

Zola Jesus

Language Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and also shares many words with other Slavic languages. Although some words and letter combinations may appear unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly phonetic language with very few irregularities - although the letters L and V can do some strange things depending on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well, so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication problems. However, as with most countries, attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd ‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed. Pronunciation c - as in pizza e - as in egg g - as in go j - like y in yogurt č - like c in cello š - like sh in ship ž - like s in pleasure

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Basics Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes - Ja (Yah) No - Ne (Nay) Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a) Please - Prosim (PRO-seem) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Signs Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance - vhod (oo-hod) Exit - izhod (eez-hod) Push – rini (ree-nee) Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)

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J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. American singer songwriter Nika Roza Danilova, better known by her stage name Zola Jesus, burst onto the indie music scene in 2010 with the release of two highly-acclaimed EPs, which was followed by her 2nd full-length album, Stridulum II, at the end of the year - the latter hailed as a ‘dark masterpiece’ by critics. Her 3rd LP, Conatus, was released to further praise, and even more commercial success, in September 2011, and her stop at Kino Šiška is part of the tour in support this album. QOpen 21:00. Tickets €14-20.

26.04 Thursday

Red Spring Party featuring DJ Martin Solveig & Lafaille

K-2, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 18, www.facebook.com/RedParty.si. From the same production team that brought David Guetta to town back in December for the unforgettable Red Xmas Party, comes the similarly themed Red Spring Party with another world-famous French DJ Martin Solveig, and his frequent collaborator Lafaille. Known for hits such as Hello, Ready 2 Go and Big in Japan, Solveig is currently involved in the production of Madonna’s upcoming new album. Lots of special guests will also be performing at the event, including Yolanda Be Cool from Australia and Gramophonedzie from the Serbian capital Belgrade. QOpen 21:00. Tickets €25/40.

09.05 Wednesday

Estelle

J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. British superstar

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Estelle will perform in Slovenia on the heels of releasing her third album All of Me, which debuted in the United States and in Britain at the beginning of March. Her performance in Kino Šiška will include her latest singles Break My Heart and Thank You, which she said are an insight into her soul and a record of her most intimate thoughts. QOpen 21:00. Tickets €23-32.

17.05 Thursday

Jasmin Stavros & Dražen Zečić

C-4/5, Križanke, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1. Croatian music legends and certifiable Balkan pop stars Jasmin Stavros & Dražen Zečić will perform at Ljubljana’s famed Križanke Summer Theatre in May as a way of celebrating their 40th and 35th years (respectively) in the music business. Each will perform with his own backing group, and be joined by various special guests, including some who are stars in their own right. A show definitely not to be missed! QOpen 20:00. Tickets €27 in advance, €30 on day of concert.

03.06 Sunday

Megadeath

J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. One of the most famous heavy metal band of all time, Megadeath was formed in Los Angeles in 1983, and is (along with Slayer, Metallica and Anthrax) largely credited with developing and popularising the sub-genre of thrash metal. The band has released thirteen albums over the course of their 30-year career, most recently the originally titled Thirteen in November 2011, which was generally well-received by critics and fans alike. Q Tickets €29.

April - May 2012

Culture & Events

culture & Events 1996 he was awarded the Order of Australia (AO); in 2002 he received the Pritzker Prize, considered the equivalent of the Nobel Prize for architecture; and in 2009 he was awarded the Gold Medal of the American Institute of Architects. This exhibition profiles a selection of his built work and, through his drawings, his working methods. Photographs by Anthony Browell fluently capture the essence of Murcutt’s design: harmony between building and nature. The exhibition particularly focuses on Murcutt’s houses, private residences that are not open to visitors. Also shown is the award-winning Arthur and Yvonne Boyd Art Centre at Riversdale, New South Wales.

01.04 Sunday - 01.06 Friday

Miran Kambič: Architecture in Photography

B-2, Tivoli Park. This open-air exhibition along the main pathway in Tivoli Park features 116 large-format photographs of Ljubljana’s Art Nouveau heritage by architect Miran Kambič, who regularly publishes his photographic work in various publications are the world. Q Free admission.

Opera & Ballet

18.05 Friday - 19.05 Saturday

CMY

La Traviata

Festivals

31.01 Tuesday - 29.04 Sunday

Godibodi Folk Music Festival

B-3, Museum of Modern Art, Tomšičeva 14, tel. +386 (0)1 2416 800, www.mg-lj.si. Metka Krašovec has been one of the most important figures of Slovene painting for decades, and in honour of her 70th birthday the Museum of Modern Art will be staging the largest ever retrospective of her work at the beginning of 2012. The comprehensive exhibition will be arranged both chronologically and thematically and clearly illustrate to viewers her artistic development over the decades - from her so-called ‘silent period’ of paintings to her drawings of the 1980s to her more recent neo-classical portraits and landscapes.

17.04 Tuesday - 21.04 Saturday Ljubljana Puppet Theatre & Celica Hostel, www. godibodi.si. This year marks the 5th instalment of the folk music festival known by the curious-sounding yet undeniably hard-to-forget name Godibodi. Bringing together Slovenia’s best pop folk musicians (with and emphasis on the ‘pop’ as this isn’t traditional accordion-based folk music), as well as some notable international names from similar genres, a series of concerts will be held concurrently over five days in Ljubljana, Maribor and nearby Kranj. The full programme and more info about each of the performers can be found on the official festival website (which is unfortunately in Slovene only). Q Admission free for Celica Hostel, €8/10 at Ljubljana Puppet Theatre.

Exhibitions

20.04 Wednesday - 02.09 Sunday

Orinco: The rainforest indians of Venezuela

F-2, Slovene Ethnographic Museum, Metelkova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 87 00, www.etno-muzej.si. This extensive exhibition of over 800 artefacts shows the ever more endangered way of life of the Hiwi, Hoti, Panare and other Indian peoples who have lived in the rainforest of the Orinoco River region of southern Venezuela for thousands of years. Set up in an original way to present the sonic and visual aspects of the rainforest, the exhibition follows the Indians’ life in the forest, on the river, and in communal houses. Exhibits include hammocks, poisoned arrows, bat necklaces and many other original objects from the extensive collection held by the Venezuelan-based Fundación Cisneros foundation.

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Metka Krašovec Retrospective

08.02 Wednesday - 31.12 Monday

Many heads are better than one

C-4, City Museum, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, www.mgml.si. The City Museum of Ljubljana has many treasures, with all of them outlining the history of our capital, its immediate surroundings and wider region. The Museum’s extensive treasures also comprise a sculptural collection of portraits and faces which will now for the first time be on display in all its diversity.Most of the sculptures from the collection are held in the museum’s storerooms and will return there after the exhibition. Their public display is therefore an exceptional opportunity. These sculptures comprise fine works of renowned Slovenian, Italian and Viennese as well as unknown sculptors.

22.03 Thursday - 10.06 Sunday

Glenn Murcutt: Architecture for Place

N-3, Museum of Architecture and Design, Pot na Fužine 2, mao@mao.si, www.mao.si. Glenn Murcutt is Australia’s most internationally recognised architect. In 1992 he was awarded the Gold Medal of the Australian Institute of Architects; in

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SNG Opera and Ballet Ljubljana, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 (0)31 696 600, www. opera.si. Chosen to officially open the Opera’s landmark 2011/12 season and inaugurate the company’s return to its own building after more than a half decade of renovation and expansion, La Traviata is inarguably one of the world’s most popular (and most performed) operas. Composed by Guiseppe Verdi and set to an Italian libretto by his frequent collaborator Francesco Piave, the plot is based on a novel by French author Alexdandre Dumas, which follows the trials and tribulations of a failed Parisian courtesan called Violetta. Encore performances will be given on 18-19 May, as well as the season-ending performance on 28 May, for those who weren’t able to get the much sought-after tickets earlier in the season. Q Tickets €10-225.

11. april 2012 Gospodarsko razstavišče

25.05 Friday - 26.05 Saturday

Nabucco

SNG Opera and Ballet Ljubljana, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766, www.opera.si. Verdi’s third opera originally premiered at the Teatro alla Scala in Milan in 1842, and was first performed in Ljubljana in 1959, and again in 2001 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the great composer’s death. Short for the tongue-twisting name Nebuchadnezzar, Nabucco is based on the biblical story from the Old Testament in which the eponymous Babylonian king exiles the Jews from their homeland. Originally premiering earlier in the season, encore performances will be given on 25-26 May. Q Tickets €10-225.

Capoeira Instrutora Ursa D -2, Plesni Centre Jenko, Miklošičeva 28, tel. +386 (0)40 500 624, chebelica@gmail.com, instrutoraursa.wordpress.com. Want to do something fun, healthy and challenging? Ever heard about capoeira, the brazilian martial art? This is a perfect opportunity to join other enthusiasts and awake the warrior instinct within you. Capoeira begginers class is led by “Instrutora Ursa” who has been trained by the first master of capoeira in Slovenia, Mestre Alegria from the group Capoeira Tradiçăo Baiana. Classes also take place in a convenient city centre location. Q Mon & Thur from 18:15-19:45. €30-50 per month or €10 per class. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

www.fanfara.net

April - May 2012

Culture & Events Druga Godba Festival 24.05 Thur sday 02.06 Saturday

28th International Druga Godba Festival

Various Venues, tel. (+386) 1 430 82 60, fax (+386) 1 430 82 65, info@drugagodba. si, www.drugagodba.si. Druga Godba is a festival of world and, to a lesser extent, contemporary jazz music. I t ranks among Europe’s best festivals of slightly alternative music difficult to fit neatly into musical categories. Druga Godba is well known for bringing to Ljubljana leading artists from different backgrounds and musical traditions who draw inspiration from different traditional folk musics and are committed to creative musical exploration. The Druga Godba line-up is sometimes even ahead of world trends. The programme for 2012 had not yet been finalised as we went to press, but if recent years are any indication it will include leading performers from several continents.

Special Events

Stand Up Comedy Saturdays D-3, Grand Union Café,

Miklošičeva 1, www.standupsi.com. Some of Slovenia’s best comedians perform in English every Saturday at the Grand Union Hotel. It’s a unique opportunity to learn about Slovenia from the people who know it best - Slovenians! Common topics include growing up in Slovenia, Slovenian culture, dating in Slovenia and much more. It’s fun disguised as education - what more could you wish for? QOpen 20:00. Admission €9. Tickets are available at Petrol gas stations, Kompas Travel Agency, post offices, and at the venue one hour before each show.

12.04 Thursday - 14.04 Saturday

Bioexo 2012

L-4, Botanical Garden, Večna pot 111, www.bioexo. si. The Bioexo exhibition features exotic pets owned by Slovenian pet breeders and lovers. Exhibited animals include snakes, lizards, turtles, spiders, etc. The speciality of this year’s exhibition are exotic species of lizards, with emphasis on chameleons and tropic species of butterflies. The exhibition is accompanied by a programme of creative workshops for children, lectures, video screenings and other events. Q Admission €6 for adults, €4 for schoolchildren and students.

15.04 Sunday - 21.04 Saturday

International Ice Hockey World Chapionship

L-1, Stožice Arena, Vojkova Cesta, wc2012.hzs.si. This April Ljubljana’s Stožice Arena will host one of it’s biggest sporting events ever, when the six national teams that comprise Group A of Division 1 will come to town to vie for a chance to compete amongst the world’s best teams at next year’s top division World Championships in Sweden and Finland. Home team Slovenia will surely be one of the favourites to make its way out of relegation when it goes up against Austria, Hungary, Great Britain, Japan and Ukraine. Up to 10,000 fans will be able to pack the new state-of-the-

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

art arena, which will be covered in ice for the first time ever. Fan-friendly ticket prices and special discounted national team packages make buying your tickets in advance a good idea - especially if you’d like to see the Slovenian national team play. Q Tickets €4-20 per match, National Packages (all 5 matches of one team) €15-80.

12.05 Saturday

Path of Remembrance Recreational Run Following the 35km route of a razor wire fence constructed around Ljubljana by occupying forces 1942, the annual recreational run commemorates those who died and suffered during this turbulent time in Slovene (and European) history. For those not up for running 35km at six in the morning on a Saturday, there is also a threesome run of 28km and 12km that begins from Mestni Trg between 9:00-9:30. The path itself, which serves a unique cultural monument, is always open to the public and worth exploring on your own. QOpen 06:00. Free admission.

Conferences & Fairs 11.04 Wednesday

fANfARA

D-1, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 18, razvozlaj@ fanfara.net, www.fanfara.net. fANfARA is an annual student marketing conference with the mission of providing quality and practical lectures from the field of marketing - primarily to students. The speakers are both Slovene and foreign experts who have personally made a major impact on the field of marketing. They are also trendsetters who dare to be different, just like fANfARA, because it is good to be different! The event is organised by the Slovenian Marketing Association’s student section (ŠSDMS), which is comprised of a group of young people with an interest in marketing, a wish to learn more about it and get some practical knowledge, all while being part of certain specific events such as fANfARA. You can find more about the group on the web at www.ssdms.si. QOpen 08:00 - 17:10. Registration fee €23.

Maturanska Parada 2012 18.05 Friday

C-2/3, Slovenska Cesta, sl.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Maturantska_parada. Since 2001, Slovene secondar y school students have celebrated their impending graduation by taking to th e stre ets for an organised dance rou tin e. In re c en t years the event has grown big ger than ever, spreading to dozens of other cities throughout southeast Europe and earning a place in the Guinness Book of Records for the largest quadrille dance event in the world. Last year over 26,000 students took part in the festivities, of whom nearly 7,000 were in Ljubljana - dressed in their traditional orange and black shirts. You can catch the action yourself live, beginning at 12:00 sharp on Ljubljana’s main thoroughfare Slovenska Cesta.

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To commemorate Slovenia’s national day of culture - which is held each year on 8 February in honour of the great Slovenian poet (and namesake of countless squares, street and cultural centres throughout the country) France Prešeren - we asked our readers to vote for their favourite museums and galleries in Ljubljana. The response was quite overwhelming with nearly 1600 votes and over 4000 page views, and the results perhaps a bit surprising (at least for us!). You can find more info about all of the locations listed below in either the Culture & Events or What to See chapters of this guide, or on our website. Congratulations to all the winners and a big thanks to everyone who voted!

Culture & Events

Cinemas Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something realeased months earlier in you own country. Tickets cost approximately €5.

Kino Dvor D-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22 13,

info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org. A small two-screen art-house cinema in the city centre, which present a diverse selection of international films - there’s also a popular bar in the lobby for a pre- or post-film tipple. Kinoteka D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 15 47 15 80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken language beforehand. Kolosej N-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 20 55 00, www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular films inside the BTC shopping area.

Concert Halls

Centre Stožice L-1, Vojkova Cesta. Part of the massive new Stožice Sports Park located just off the ring road in the north of the city, the Sadar Vuga designed arena is home to Ljubljana’s Olimpija sports clubs, as well as several other basketball, handball and volleyball teams from the region. It also doubles as the country’s largest concert venue, with a capacity of nearly 15,000. Tickets for most events can be purchased through various online retailers, such as Eventim. Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17 063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences. Regular shows include Rapetek (hip hop shows the last Friday of every month), Zeleno sonce (funk concerts the first Friday of every month), Kapa records festivals (shows by artists signed to the venue’s own label), Dub Club (electrodub nights), Pozor! Nov bend na vidku! and Domorodni četrtki (featuring up and coming international and Slovene bands respectively). From May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Križanke C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386) 12 41 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics for various summertime concerts and events. Opera & Ballet Ljubljana B/C-3, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 (0)31 696 600, blagajna@opera.si, www.opera.si. After undergoing years (and years and years) of extensive renovation, expansion and modernisation, Ljubljana’s famed opera finally reopened to the public just in time for the beginning of the 2011/12 season - which also marks the institution’s 120th year anniversary. Originally constructed in 1892, according to the plans of Czech architects Jan V. Ljubljana In Your Pocket

culture & Events Hráský and Anton Hruby, the building’s Neo-Renaissance façade is one of the most impressive and recognizable works in the country. Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) C-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in 2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Conference Venues

Grand Hotel Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 13

08 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Built in 1905, this Art Nouveau masterpiece has a long history of hosting major events and prominent guests - it’s the only place the Queen of England stay when she’s in town. It also has the most extensive conference facilities of any hotel in Ljubljana, including its immaculate Grand Union Hall, which can seat up to 800 delegates.

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) D-1, Dunajska 18, tel.

(+386) 13 00 26 11, luka.zajc@gr-sejem.si, www. gr-sejem.si. GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.

Cultural Centres

Cankarjev Dom B-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 12 41 71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses. Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) J-2, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 310 100, info@ kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 800 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.

Buy Tickets Eventim B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 14 30 24

05, info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/ en. Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.

Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the Railway Station C-1, Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, tel.

(+386) 1433 94 75, ticzp@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. The events ticketing office inside the railway station Q October-May: 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed. June-September: Every day 08:00-22:00

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KUD France Prešeren K-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386)

12 83 22 88, kud@kud-fp.si, www.kud-fp.si. A venue for concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre)

F-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.

Galleries These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. For info on larger galleries and museums please refer to the Sightseeing section. Best of 2012

Aksioma Project Space D/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel.

+386 (0)590 54 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, projectspace@aksioma.org, www.aksioma.org. Operated by the Aksioma Institute for Contemporary Arts - a non-profit cultural institution based in Ljubljana - the gallery is interested in projects that take advantage of new technologies in order to investigate and discuss the structures of (post) modern society. Exhibitions usually concentrate on artistic production that explores social, political, aesthetic and ethical concerns. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Alkatraz Galerija F-2, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 434 0345, fax +386 (0)1 432 3378, galerija.alkatraz@ gmail.com, www.galerijalkatraz.org. Q Open Mon-Tues 11:00-15:00 and 16:00-20:00, and Fri 15:00-23:00. Galerija Equrna C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23, equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. No admission. Galerija Fotografija D-4, Mestni Trg 11/I, tel. +386 (0)1 25 11 529, info@galerijafotografija.si, www. galerijafotografija.si. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Galerija Zala C-4, Gosposka 7, tel. +386 (0)1 251 35 66/+386 (0)41 790 400, galerija.zala@siol.net, www. galerijazala.si. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Ganes Pratt Mala Galerija C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. +386 (0)1 241 68 50/+386 (0)51 242 811, galerija@ ganes-pratt.si, www.ganes-pratt.si. Originally founded in 2006 as an independent arts space, for the 2011/12 season has merged its programme and premises with the Mala Galerija, a part of Ljubljana’s Museum of Modern Art. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Jakopič Galerija C-4, Slovenska 9, tel. (+386) 1 24 12 500, info@mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej. si. A branch of the City Museum of Ljubljana, the Jakopič Gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary art and design by Slovenian and international artists. The programme of exhibitions focuses on the role of contemporary art in its local environment. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1 241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. The largest fine arts exhibition space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. It also has three

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

additional spaces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 15:00. Closed Mon.

Photon J-2, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)59 977 907, info@photon.si, www.photon.si. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Škuc Gallery D-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421 31

40, galerija.skuc@guest.arnes.si, www.galerija.skucdrustvo.si. One of the cities most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring some oft he most important people in contemporary art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tobačna 001 A-4, Tobačna 1, tel. (+386) 1 24 12 500, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Vžigalica Galerija C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the box office opening hours.

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)

C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.si, www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kavarna Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama) C-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11,

drama@drama.si, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) D/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music, design and other forms. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance. Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre C-3, Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@opera. si, www.opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence theatre in the city centre that’s used for various classical performances. Its lengthy renovations and expansion finally seem to be nearing an end, with a reopening scheduled for the spring. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče E-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386) 1 425 33 12, info@mladinsko-gl.si, en.mladinsko.com. The Mladinsko Theatre (or the SMG) is considered a laboratory for actors, directors, choreographers and musicians to research and develop, risk and create. It was established in the 1950s as the first professional theatre for children and youth in Slovenia. Q Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-13:00.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi

b Breakfast

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room you want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.

Over €170

Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa C-4, Gosposka 10, tel.

(+386) 838 96 700, fax (+386) 838 06 790, sales@ antiqpalace.com, w w w.antiqpalace.com. With the opening of Antiq Palace & Spa, Ljubljana finally has a top end boutique hotel on par with any other in the world in terms of luxury, service and history. In fact, calling it a simply a ‘hotel’ is misleading, as it is truly a palace in every sense of the word. The sprawling 16th century building was a former noble residence and has been painstakingly restored to its original splendour. Its 13 fully-equipped and beautifully furnished residential suites range in size from 100 to 250m², and several unique spaces are available for business meetings, conferences and other events. The premises also include luxurious and intimate spa facilities, where guests can indulge themselves with the finest treatments and then unwind in a Jacuzzi, sauna or steam room. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 14 suites (singles €115-240, doubles €275-330, duplex residence €550). PTJHARUIFLEDXW

Grand Hotel Union Business D-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel. business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information. Q 133 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372446). PbTJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Grand Hotel Union Executive D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.ghunion.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent Ljubljana In Your Pocket

choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 194 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PbJHAR6U� FLGKDXCW hhhh

Lev C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1 433 21 55, info@

hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless others in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to the nearly 200 high quality, air-conditioned rooms - ranging from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites. All come complete with facilities including soundproof windows, cable television and a choice of internet connections. Extras include popular business and conference services and a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes. Q 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312). PbOJHARUFGKXW hhhhh

€100-170

Allegro D-4, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/

(+386) 41 557 908, info@allegrohotel.si, www.allegrohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for a restaurant. Q 16 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150). PbTJAR6BW hhhh

Antiq D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 35 60, fax (+386) 1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.eu, www.antiqhotel.eu. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50) . PbJAR6IGW hhhh Best Western Premier Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 470 11 00, fax (+386) 1 251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles €75 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Where to stay Hostels

Celica F-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 12 30 97 00,

info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have preserved their original character, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves excellent value set lunches every day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €19-32 per bed, dorms €19-25per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h

Confidenti K-4, Ziherlova 30, tel. +386 (0)41 440 441, confidentihostel@gmail.com, comfy-hostel-ljubljana.si. Despite being one of our favourite neighbourhoods, Trnovo is more or less off the official tourist radar, making this place a great choice for those wanting to avoid the crowded city centre, but still be within easy walking distance of the old town. Set on three floors of a newly renovated old house, the bottom two floors are reserved for long-term rentals (ie students) from the beginning of October till the end of June. The friendly owner Rok, is often on hand to greet new arrivals and dole out advice, and there’s a large kitchen and common room for socialising. Q 48 beds (2-bed private rooms €41-53, 4-bed dorm €16.50-22.50, 6-bed dorm €15.50-20.50, 8-bed dorm €14.50-19.50). From October to June only one of the three floors is available for short-term stays. LGXW

Central D-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386)13 08 43 00, fax

(+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www.centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PbJHAR6UFGKDXCW hhhh

M Hotel J-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax (+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel.si. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). PbTHAR6ULGKXW hhh

€70-100

Kavarna Maček Rooms D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386)

1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net, www.sobe-macek.si. With rooms this beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travellers. These rooms are along the river and above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples, but there’s also one larger apartment. In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

up to your glorious temporary home. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5 rooms (singles €61, doubles €96, apartment €126). PTJA6GBKS

Many more accommodation options online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Hostel Print J-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. (+386) 51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, www.hostelprint.com. Ljubljana’s newest hostel is actually more of a budget hotel as all accommodation is in single, double and triple rooms, which are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made breakfasts are also included in the price and easily exceed what you get at most other budget options. However, the place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen. Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off opposite Mercator). Q 23 rooms (singles €22.99, doubles €19.99, triples €16.99, four bed €15.99). PTAR6LGXW

Couchsurfing Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org

Park E-2/3, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, info@hotel-

park.si, www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer, the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well, and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments €150180). PbTJHAR6UGXW hhh

Stil O-4, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@

hotel-stil.si, www.hotel-stil.si. Located in a quiet peaceful setting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city, Stil is a convenient choice for those with their own transport who are looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city centre. The modern building houses a range of rooms and apartments, and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All facilities are air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms, mini-bars and wireless internet. Two seminar rooms are also available. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 43 rooms (singles €73, doubles €90, triples €115, apartments €100-180). PbHAR6ULGW hhh

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2012

Restaurants

Restaurants Harambaša C-5, Vrtna Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 41 84 31

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. The following descriptions are by no means complete, but do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest white-tablecloth options to the more amusingly backwards establishments complete with greasy cutlery and bumbling waiters. For our complete coverage of restaurants, visit our website. Also be aware that during the summer months many restaurants keep shorter hours or close entirely for several weeks at a time - in the latter cases we try to make a note of it in the guide, but it’s always best to call ahead first if possible.

Asian

Bangkok Street M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.

(+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, info@ bangkokstreet.si, www.bangkokstreet.si. Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive all-you-can-eat buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16). PTA6ULVEGSW

Shambala C-4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 14 26

30 14/(+386) 31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www. shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK

06, www.harambasa.si. Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the delicious Balkan staple of juicy barbequed lamb or beef - is served in abundance here. This ćevapnica has a quaint and cosy dining room, complete with old photos, antiques and a Balkan soundtrack. Aside from the odd American, the clientele is refreshingly local, and aside from the air-conditioning you could easily be in a village in the Bosnian countryside. Located in a small alleyway, to find it just follow your nose from the main road.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (€5-8).PTJUNBS

Buffet

Restaurant 2000 C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 5 128 53 34, www.maxi.si/si/restavracija-2000. A vast underground filling station for budget-conscious city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. The food isn’t going to win any awards, but it’s more than good enough especially for the price. Find it deep inside the bowels of Maxi Market. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW

Indian

Namasté C/D-4, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59, fax (+386) 1 236 20 27, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS

International

Argentino M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1

523 36 30, info@argentino.si, www.argentino.si. The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge, and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:0023:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00. Sun 12:00-17:00. (€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXSW

Balkan

Gostilnica Rio-Momo C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386)

31 751 751/(+386) 14 25 32 26, portalm@siol.net, www.riomomo.si. Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PTJAUSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Enjoy some of the city’s best Asian cuisine in Shambala leafy summer garden

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Dining outdoors along the Ljubljanica - our mango shrimp salad was as healthy and tasty as it was colourful NEW

Bistro C-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 91,

www.zvezdaljubljana.si. It didn’t take long for Kongresni Trg, and Zvezda Park, to resume their rightful place as the heart of Ljubljana’s city centre after reopening to the public in 2011 (now resting on top of a shiny new subterranean parking garage). Thus is was only a matter of time before a restaurant or two moved in to satiate the appetites of a hungry citizens. While Bistro is minimalist in décor, its menu of gourmet lunches and light snacks are nothing if not decadent, and its sophisticated wine list is complimented by an ample selection of cocktails for those wishing to drop by for an after work or late night tipple. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JAS

Gostilna Dela E-3, Poljanska 7, tel. +386 (0)51 491

491. Located just east of the Tržnica central market and around the corner from Dragon Bridge, Gostilna Dela is nevertheless a bit hidden on a narrow street not usually frequented by tourists, but is definitely worth finding. Not only do they serve up delicious lunchtime fare from an open-kitchen in a rustic yet cosy dining area, but the whole operation is overseen the so-called JobFactory project, which aims to create employment opportunities for local youth who may otherwise be excluded from the working world. Thus, in addition to sincerely pleasant service and tasty food at affordable prices, taking a meal here also supports a good cause. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €5-8. JAG

JB D-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 58/(+386) 14 74 72 19, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

Lunch Café Marley & Me D-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386)

8 380 66 10/(+386) 40 564 188, info@lunchcafe.si, www.lunchcafe.si. Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, despite the name this intimate bistro-type restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner as well and comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-22). PJA6UGBXSW

Maxim C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 5 128 53 35, maxim@mercator.si, www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€40 and more). PJA6LEGBS April - May 2012

Restaurants

Restaurants NEW

Paninoteka+ C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 4 125 67

14. Ljubljana’s most famous sandwich shop has finally reopened its doors after a lengthy renovation, and now includes a fullfledged restaurant and café (in addition to the original soup and sandwiches of course) on the expanded premises. The à la carte selection leans towards the Italian, with homemade gnocchi and ravioli standing out, but also offers a handful of Slovene favourites, and the constantly changing daily lunch specials are a good value. The warm cosy atmosphere is also conducive to dropping in for an evening drink or dessert. Q Open Mon-Thurs 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00 and Sun 09:00-22:00. Sandwiches €3.10-3.80. Main dishes €7.50-18.60. PJABW

Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, plato@

siol.net, www.plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW

NEW

Origano I-4, Cesta na Vrhovce 4, tel. +386 (0)51 400

500, info@origano.si, www.origano.si. Located in what was once upon a time the village of Vrhovci, Origano isn’t Ljubljana’s most conveniently located restaurant, but is nevertheless worth the effort it takes to find. Set in a centuryold house, the interior has been extensively modernised in a spacious minimalist style, which is well-suited for the cooking workshops and culture/culinary evenings that frequently take place - with Russia, India, Ireland and Greece all recently featured. In addition to a seasonally focussed à la carte menu, Origano has some of the best set lunches in town, usually consisting of a few lower priced options, a slightly more sophisticated business lunch and something for vegetarians. Q Open Mon-Thur 10:00-22:00, Fri 10:00-24:00 and Sat 11:0018:00. Closed Sun & Holidays. PALEBW

Burek Nobel Burek D-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386) 12 32

33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€2). J6UXS

Olimpija D-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also the runaway winner of our online poll. The servings are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Smrekarjev Hram D-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 308 19 75, www.gh-union.si. Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list, made up of exclusively local bottles with the sole exception being French champagne for those particularly special occasions. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a touch of class. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTJA6ULEGBSW

Italian

Pizza

Foculus C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 92 95, foculus@siol.net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS Parma B/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82 22, foculus@siol.net, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). TJA6ULGBXSW Pizzeria Osmica C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 14 26

58 72, info@osmica.si, www.osmica.si. Located on the narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and salad annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressivelooking menu of twenty salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch quite a bit, and have yet to be disappointed. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.507.90). PTJA6UBSW

Quick Eats

NEW

Pekorino C-3, Nazorjeva 5, tel. +386 (0)8 20 55 630,

info@pekorino.si, www.pekorino.si. Just opened at the beginning of the year, we haven’t had the chance to sample the food yet, but the place definitely looks promising. While you can’t really tell from the modern façade (or the sheepish logo above the door), the interior has been immaculately designed to resemble a Tuscan countryside trattoria and is about as open and spacious as restaurants come in Ljubljana. The menu is largely Italian-based, but there are also some house specialities and Slovene-inspired dished thrown into the mix. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PJA

Mediterranean

Allegria C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 74 02,

info@allegria.si, www.allegria.si. Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery has recently shifted the focus of its menu to the Mediterranean, with an extra emphasis on Slovenia’s coastal regions. Seasonal specials are regularly offered, with the most popular dishes finding a home on the permanent menu - the recent Days of Karst Cuisine has contributed a traditional risotto using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in caves) for example and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW

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Burger King M-2, Šmartinska 152 (Citypark), tel. (+386) 1 520 01 47. After being more or less raised on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say unequivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when compared to any other internationally known burger joint (not naming any names of course). If you don’t believe us, head to the food court on the first floor of CityPark and try a Whopper for yourself. QOpen 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€2.80-5.80). PTAULGS Falafel E-3, Trubarjeva 40/(+386) 41 64 01 66, www. alja-shaar.com/falafel.htm. A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). JA6UVGS

Surf’n’Fries C-3, Plečnikov Trg. Several weeks ago we began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. Opened in November, we’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. If you’re feeling especially adventurous, try the house speciality chocolate covered fries - apparently the first in the world. QOpen 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50.

Slovenian In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian food - with sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin.

Hot Horse B-2, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 15 21 14

27, www.hot-horse.si. Eating horses may horrify most British visitors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling. Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon 10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS

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April - May 2012

CAFÉS

Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so many options to choose from just wandering around until you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.

watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. for restaurant from monday till friday 11:00-17:00 saturday and sundar closed (€2-3). PTJA6GBKSW

Cha (Čajna Hiša) D-4, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 12

52 70 10, cha@siol.net, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00-22:00. Closed Sun. TJA6GBSW

Coffee Project D-3, Mali Trg 1. Hidden behind the

popular stretch of Trubarjeva, this tiny and very new coffee shop has big ambitions. It serves Turkish brewed for the discerning coffee drinkers and in the beer department it has the distinction of offering not only the two ubiquitous and watered-down national beers but also a selection of homemade ones. Ask a local to guide you there and they just might join you in something new. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJ6ULEGBXW

Café Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 230 84

Gostilnica Rimska XXI B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1 256 56 54, gostilnica.xxi@gmail.com, www.r-g. si/xxi. With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PTJA6IB Pri Škofu C-5, Rečna 8, tel. (+386) 14 26 45 08, priskofu@gmail.com. Hidden down a small side street in Krakovo, Pri Škofu is a long-time favourite of cashstrapped university students who still like to enjoy a proper meal from time to time, and you’re virtually guaranteed to see at least a couple bespectacled hipsters seated at a table nearby. The €8 lunch specials come in obscenely large portions and are one of the best values in town. Although there’s no menu it’s also possible to order à la carte, and an English-speaking waitress will gladly rattle off what’s available Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. (€6.5-23). TJA6UBW

Špajza D-5, Gornji Trg 28, tel. (+386) 1 425 30 94, info@spajza-lj.si, www.spajza-restaurant.si. An exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Located on one of the old town’s quaintest most photogenic streets,

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

it’s popular with many people including business professionals, tourists and couples. During the summer months they have one of the most romantic courtyards in Ljubljana. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-15). JA6GBS

80, plato@siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people

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Spanish

Don Felipe E-4, Streliška 22, tel. (+386) 14 34 38 62, info@donfelipe.net, www.donfelipe.net. Ljubljana’s only proper Spanish restaurant would likely stand out even if had some competition. Lots of exposed wood and worn floors give the place a charming rustic feel, and the service is excellent (if not overwhelmingly fast during peak hours). A lengthy tapas menu is complimented by an equally extensive wine list, and the daily three-course lunch special should keep you busy for a good hour and a half for less than €10. Check their website for details about upcoming Flamenco shows, which are usually held every couple of weeks. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (€4-23).

Vegetarian

Ajdovo Zrno D-3, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.com,

www.satwa.si. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2-6). PJABS

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April - May 2012

Nightlife

cafÉs Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

J City centre location

A Credit cards accepted

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled K Restaurant L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

W Wi-Fi

Bars

Kavarna in Slaščičarna Maxi C-3, Trg Republike 1,

tel. +386 (0)5 128 53 42, slascicarna.maxi@mercator. si, www.maxi.si. The café and pastry shop on the ground floor of the Maxi Market shopping centre is one of the more regal places in town to enjoy some coffee and cake. It’s central location makes it a popular spot for meetings, and the proximity to the National Assembly, the headquarters of the country’s largest bank and various embassies guarantees that you’ll be rubbing elbows with some of Slovenia’s real power brokers. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PbAUBSW

Kavarna Maček D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 14 25 37

91, macek@lj-kabel.net, www.sobe-macek.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends. QOpen 09:00 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. TJA6UGBSW

Le Petit Café C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. (+386) 1 251 25 75, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive: big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PTJA6UGBSW Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386)40 60 17 87,

info@neboticnik.si, www.neboticnik.si. After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree views from Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee and cakes aren’t bad either. This is a must see stop for all visitors. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PA6USW

STA Travel Café C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439 16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.com, www. staljubljana.com. Connected to the Ljubljana branch of STA travel via a doorway at the back, this centrally-located café is a popular destination in its own right - and it’s not hard to see why. A huge first floor terrace is loaded with comfy wooden furniture including wicker couches and even a couple of sun beds, and despite the proximity to Ljubljana’s main road you can still enjoy quiet drink in the sun. Inside is just as comfortable, and they’ve recently added hot sandwiches, pizzas and other light snacks to the menu. It also wouldn’t be a travel café without the bi-monthly presentations of exotic locales around the globe - check the chalk board for upcoming events. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJ6GBXW Zvezda C-3, Wolfova 14, tel. (+386) 14 21 90 90, ka-

varna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon, and another in Hala 12 in BTC. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. BTC Hala 12 open 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2.80-4.50). PTJAUGBSW

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In Ljubljana there’s a bar for everyone’s taste. While we’ve decided to give Pubs and Wine Bars their own categories, you’ll find pretty much every other kind of bar in town listed here - from dive bars and hipster hangouts to some truly classy affairs, and everything in between. Note that as in most European cities there is a fine line between a café and bar, with plenty of establishments easily fitting into either category, which means that most of the places here open early and serve coffee, and you can also get a beer or spirits at most cafés.

Bi-Ko-Fe C-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93

93, bikofe@gmail.com, www.bikofe.com. Situated on a sloping cobbled lane in Ljubljana’s old town, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters, students, artists, designers, musicians and the like. The winner of an award for design, the interior was entirely renovated using recycled and refurbished furniture and materials, and we can honestly say that it’s one of the cosiest places to relax with a drink (or a coffee) in the city. Live DJs keep the place bumping on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, and from time to time musical acts (some quite well-known) perform cover-free shows for the cool crowd. They also now offer light snacks, including some of the best sandwiches in LJ, which are made daily by a local Japanese woman. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 01:00. Holidays 18:00-01:00. PJA6UBXSW

Green Moon E-3, Poljanska 3, green.moon.lj@gmail.

com. The first and only Mayan-themed cocktail bar in Ljubljana, no expense was spared in getting the details right and turning what was formerly a basement dive bar into a fun place to come drink, dance and party. Most of the four dozen or so cocktails on the menu contain Agwa, a centuries old Bolivian liqueur made from coca leaves - yes, those coca leaves - and can be ordered in 1L and 1.5L pitchers for those who are especially thirsty. Definitely try one of the Slovenia-inspired house speciality drinks like the Soča or Patria (and if you’re not from Slovenia google ‘jansa patria’ to see why the latter is a brilliant name). Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PJABS

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Pri Zelenem Zajcu D-5, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemzajcu.si. This is a good place to head to if you want to find a small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly rotating disco lights and trance type music give the Rabbit a bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor tables. Recommend for students or those who once were students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an evening, or for those who’ve never drunk absinthe and would like to give it a go. Q Open 09:00 - 00:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:30, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 00:00. JA6EGBXW Pr’ Skelet D-4, Ključavničarska 5, tel. (+386) 1 252 77 99, info@prskelet.com, www.prskelet.com. Look for the skeleton hanging in a cage on the corner of the street, dip up the alley and down the skeleton-riddled staircase, over the skeleton lying under the glass floor and enter what may well be the strangest cocktail bar of them all. As sharp-witted readers may have already guessed, the theme here is a skeletal one. They’re everywhere - some still wearing their clothes, and even a dominatrix skeleton complete with a whip and naughty little skeleton. Not content with this, expect to find a bony handle on your cup should you order a coffee. Q Open 10:00 - 03:00. J6GBX Sputnik I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 51 627 000,

fax (+386) 12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www. sputnik.si. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events. Q Open 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW best of 2012

Žmauc B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 12 51 03 24. Ask

any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB

April - May 2012

nightlife Pubs best of 2012

nightlife Wine Bars

Casinos

43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg. QOpen 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW

Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the centuries in the country’s three wine growing regions producing a vast selection of excellent quality wines, predicate wines and sparkling wines. You can encounter all pleasures at any of the traditional gostilnas or wine cellars found in almost every street in Ljubljana. To make your choice easier try wines such as Teran, Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from the coastal region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Ranina.

Patrick’s Irish Pub D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230 17

best of 2012

Parlament Pub C-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 251 32

68, info@irishpub-ljubljana.si, www.irishpub-ljubljana.si. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the classic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PTJA6EGSW

Zlata Ladjica C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41

06 96, info@zltim.si, www.zlataladjica.si. The ‘Golden Ship’ has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging, sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selection is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments, and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often €3 drink specials at the weekend - check the signs outside for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UEGBKXSW

Clubs

Cirkus B-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 7, tel. +386

(0)51 631 631/+386 (0)41 777 747, info@cirkusklub. si, www.cirkusklub.si. Opened at the end of 2011 on the premises of the former arthouse cinema Kinoklub Vič, Cirkus has quickly become on the of the more popular clubs in Ljubljana - with lots of themed nights, live DJs and photo albums posted to their Facebook page the morning after parties. Located just at the edge of the city centre (opposite the old tobacco factory), it’s easy walking distance from most central hotels and hostels, and usually attracts a youthful student crowd. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is usually free before 23:00 and €5 after. Special events and performances can increase the price though. PJAG

Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12

57, info@dvornibar.net, www.dvornibar.net. This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW

eVino Bar M-2, Šmartinska 53, tel. (+386) 1 401

8008/(+386) 40 384 664, bar@evino.si, www. evino.si. Founded as a web-only venture back in 2005, eVino has since become one of the largest wine distributors in Slovenia, and now has its own wine bar where customers can sample the goods in a proper atmosphere before buying. In addition to the vast selection of wine currently from nearly 100 producers representing over a dozen countries - they also offer a limited selection of premium spirits, some gourmet oils and vinegars, cigars and Antica coffee - a boutique brand widely considered to be one of the best in the world. They have wine tastings most Thursday nights, and can also arrange private events on request. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PALBS

Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17 063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows. best of 2012

Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61,

One of the best ways to experience Ljubljana by night is to attend a concert at one of the city’s many great music venues

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

info@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Club K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Thu 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 06:00. PJAG

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter. best of 2012

Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386)1

KMŠ A-3, Tržaška 2, tel. (+386) 1425 74 80, info@klub-

kms.si, www.klubkms.si. If you’re young and a student (or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends and the occasional weekday. Drink to your heart’s content as the booze is by far the cheapest in town. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed June-August. Admission €1.50. PJA6EGW

Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52,

www.zlatizob.si. While Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugoslavian days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of the many cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati Zob the city’s new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the form of a singer’s wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The cafe/club’s interior, full of Balkan artifacts and traditional instruments hanging off the walls, hints at the raucous nights of music and dancing that occur when the sun goes down and various regional artists and DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 03:00. Closed Sun. PALEGBXW

Jazz Bars NEW

Repete Gornji Trg 23. Located in the space formerly

occupied by the Norwegian-owned Lars Bar, Repete (or Repæte Jazz & Okrepčila as it is properly called) has kept the unmistakably Scandinavian interior design of its predecessor - sleek and minimalist with lots of wood, but still surprisingly warm. When it comes to drinks the focus is on wine, whisky and imported beer by the bottle, while during the day you can also grab gourmet soup, sandwiches and hamburgers. See their Facebook page for info on upcoming jazz concerts.

Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) (0)51 804 450,

saxpublj@gmail.com. This is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spattered nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus once referred to as black classical music. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional live band in from time to time. Check their Facebook page to see what’s on. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. JA6LEGBD

Many more bars, clubs and pubs online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

430 42 23, info@casinolev.si, www.casinolev.com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. No admission fee. POJHAULEG

Adult Entertainment Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make space for sexy and sinful late night entertainment for adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung up around the city displaying a diversity of foreign girls for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit. Escorts in Ljubljana are limited but your hotel can advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you would have to look very hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t advise that you try as these girls do not necessarily undergo any medical examination. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’ selection we have on offer in Ljubljana. best of 2012

Hard Core Club G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41

71 66 12, info@hardcoreclub.si, www.hardcoreclub.si. With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00, Fri 17:00 - 07:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAG

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmar tinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latinonightclub.com, www.latino-nightclub.com. With unlimited free drinks and transportation included in the price of admission, Ljubljana’s best nightclub is a great place to party in the company of girls from around the world. As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican but there are also some Thai and Eastern European girls for the sake of variety. The club is known for great parties and special stag shows at the weekends, usually featuring a couple large snakes or girl-on-girl performance. Located underneath the Arena Play & Party Centre in BTC. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission is €20 and includes unlimited drinks and free transportation. PALG April - May 2012

what to see

what tosee see what to Top 5 sights (other than the castle) Franciscan Church ( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i Samostan) D-3,

Prešernov Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1242 93 00. Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few D.Silpa treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Mestni Tr g (Town Square) D-3/4. Th e

centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 ear thquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Sou van house with its Empire façade.

Winner of our Best Museum of 2012 poll, the House of Experiments on Trubarjeva Cesta is worth checking out for those with kids, or those with childlike curiosity Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) D-3. Perhaps Ljubljana’s

Bridges

not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the best views in the city.

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) D-4. Another

Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, others simply holding stone balls in the air.

Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge) D-3. Con-

necting the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market wi th Petkovškovo Nabrežje on th e opposi te bank, the bridge had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the 1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat controversial due to it’s modern style (Plečnik had envisioned something of similar appearence to the adjecent market), as well as the grotesque sculptures by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar that were commissioned to decorate the structure. Soon after the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing and decidely uncontroversial tradition of couples locking ‘love padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.

Buildings

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) C-3, Štefanova 1. Believe it or

Cemeteries

Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) L/M-2, Med Hmeljni-

ki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, www.zale.si. Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. April-September 07:00-21:00.

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P r e š e r n o v Tr g (Prešeren Square)

D-3.Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20thcentury flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Centromerkur department store.

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Tivoli Park A/B-2.

Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave the ci ty spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some five square kilometres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally Mansion-LTB-archive two streets west of the city centre - is so packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge)

E-3, Resljeva Cesta. Sin c e i t op en e d in 1901, Zmajski Most has b een locked in a fierce competition wi th the castle and the conspicuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photo graph e d Si gh t in Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.

April - May 2012

what to see Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) D-3, Dolničarjeva

Churches As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.

Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) D-4,

Grajska Planota 1, tel. (+386) 1 306 42 93, infocenter@ljubljanskigrad.si, www. ljubljanskigrad. si. Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and d omi nati n g th e city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries. The current main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of special glasses and a headset for an English translation, showing an interesting and informative history of the castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15thcentury wall paintings and not a lot more. A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre. Q October-March 10:00-21:00, AprilSeptember 09:00-23:00. Full combined ticket €5-8, half combined ticket €3-6, Guided tour €6-10.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

what to see 1, tel. (+386) 1234 26 70, lj-stolnica@rkc.si, lj-stolnica.rkc.si. With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history of the diocese of the city.

Or thodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) B-2, Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00. St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) F-3, Trubarjeva 80, tel.

(+386) 12 31 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of particular interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger.

Monuments Old Ljubljana is the city’s historical part of town and practically a monument in itself. Fountains, the town hall, some restaurants and local designer shops are located in old buildings that are very well preserved. The Triple Bridge “Tromostovje” is one of Ljubljana’s trademarks designed by Joze Plecnik. “Zmajski most “ or the Dragon Bridge is another main bridge in Ljubljana, guarded by four detailed dragon statues, which became the symbol of the city. But the most prominent of all, the medieval Ljubljana Castle was built on a prehistoric site on top of a hill, which dominates the cityscape. You can go up by a funicular railway for €2-3.

France Prešeren D-3, Pršernov trg. Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

As the temperatures increase, jumping in the massive fountain on Novi Trg becomes more and more tempting

Puppet Theatre Clock D/E-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every

hour between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries back inside with Krpan in pursuit - a scene taken from the puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting children since 1992.

Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) D-3, Mestni

Trg. One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, th e ar tist’s masterpiece features three ri ver gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.

Museums & Galleries While Ljubljana’s museums and galleries are likely not the top reason for most visitors coming to the city, the breadth and scope of what’s on offer is more than enough to keep you busy for days on end.

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City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) C-4, Gosposka 15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mestnimuzej. si, www.mestnimuzej.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language guided tours last Sun at 11:00. Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine) B-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 13 00 96

10, uprava@muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si. If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence in 1991. Using a combination of wellpresented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family.

April - May 2012

what to see Exhibition of Slovenian History D-4, Grajska Planota

1 (Ljubljana Castle), tel. (+386) 1 306 42 93, slovenskazgodovina@ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad. si. This beautifully presented exhibition takes visitors on a whirlwind tour of Slovenia’s long and fascinating history, from prehistoric times through independence and the present day. The exhibition is divided into six historical time periods: prehistory and the Romans, the Middle and early Modern Ages, the 19th century and WWI, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and WWII, Yugoslavia and finally independence and beyond. Located across three floors within Ljubljana Castle, the exhibition showcases original items, replicas, interactive content and various fun and informative multimedia presentations. It’s a must-see for tourists and another reason for locals to pay the castle a visit if they haven’t been in a while. Q OctoberApril 10:00-18:00, April-September 09:00-21:00. Admission €4-8 for adults, €2-5 for children and €10-14 for families when combined with other sites at the castle. Best of 2012

House of Experiments (Hiša Eksperimentov) E-3, Trubarjeva 39, tel. (+386) 13 00 68 88, info@h-e.si, www.h-e.si. Based on similar wacky, fun and educational places around the globe, the extraordinary House of Experiments features three rooms of purpose-built experiments for the ultimate hands-on experience. Visitors are free to wander around as they wish, engaging with anything that takes their fancy, whether it’s a giant bubble maker, electronic insects, dancing liquid or a machine that plays music according to your weight. They also provide what they call Adventures, namely small performances that aim to show different scientific principles, with enticing names like the Centre of Gravitology, Eggology etc. Q Open sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Groups can book special visits outside these days too. International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni Grafični Likovni Center) A-2, Pod Turnom 3,

tel. (+386) 1241 38 00, lili.sturm@mglc-lj.si, www. mglc-lj.si. Located inside the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Mansion, this must-see attraction for anyone with even a passing interesting in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000 artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and including the work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.40/1.70. During the Biennial €6/3.

what to see Museum of Contemporary Art F-2, Maistrova 3,

info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups.

Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija) B-3,

Tomšičeva 14, tel. (+386) 12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj. si, www.mg-lj.si. Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar’s Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public. Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city’s excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of Slovenian and international 20th-century art. Q Open Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission €5 for adults, €2.50 for students/pensioners. No admission fee first Sunday of every month.

National Galler y (Narodna Galerija) B/C-2, Prešernova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 241 54 18, info@ng-slo. si, www.ng-slo.si. Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (18691943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissanceperiod Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.5-7. National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej)

B-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 44 00, info@ nms.si, www.nms.si. Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4-8.5.

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) F-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 1 300 87 00,

The Urbana Card is your pass to all of Ljubljana’s sights and transport

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

etnomuz@etno-muzej.si, www.etno-muzej.si. The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated public services. The museum is located in a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of former military

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barracks of the Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building. QOpen 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 (adults/students). Free admission the last Sunday of the month.

Parks & Gardens

Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) L-4, Ižanska 15,

tel. (+386) 14 27 12 80, botanicni.vrt@siol.net, www. botanicni-vrt.si. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species of native and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15 people are possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days in advance. Q Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00, November-March 07:00-17:00. Admission free for individuals, €1-2,5 guided views (€35-50/group).

Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) I-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. (+386) 12 44 21 88, info@zoo.si, www.zoo.si. A large complex with a good variety of native and foreign animals, the zoo makes for an excellent day out with the kids. A pleasant 30 minute walk through leafy residential neighbourhoods from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23. Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00-23:00. Q Open daily from 09:00-16:00 in Jan-Feb and 09:00-17:00 in March and October, 09:00-18:00 in April and September, 09:00-19:00 May-August. Admission: €2 for disabled, kids €4-6, students and seniors €6, adults €7, free for children under 2.

Squares

Trg Republike (Republic Square) B/C-3. The political

centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist 1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers and the Cankarjev Dom Cultural Centre. The western tower is home to some half-dozen embassies, while the east tower is the headquarters of Slovenia’s largest bank, NLB. A small park to the west of the car park contains some large sculptures celebrating heroes of Slovenia’s past and are worth taking a peak at.

Tours The Tourist Information Centre should be your first stop if you’re interested in any kind of city tour. They offer a variety of scheduled tours for individuals, and can arrange even more for groups with a bit of advanced notice. Prices and itineraries are also clearly listed on their site, so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another as well. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty.

Slovenia Explorer K-2, Celovška 69c, tel. +386 (0)40 555 656, info@slovenia-explorer.com, www.sloveniaexplorer.com. Slovenia Explorer travel agency is committed to exploring Slovenia in detail - meaning they won’t just show you the major sights, but also the lesser known, yet equally beautiful, natural and cultural wonders of the country. They offer scheduled and custom-made day trips and multi-day tours throughout Slovenia, organise adventures and events, offer tourist information and arrange bookings (flight tickets, accommodation, adrenaline activities, as well as sailboat, yacht and camper van rental). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Tourist Information Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (Turistični Informacijski Center) D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo

Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, fax (+386) 13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana. si. A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday Closed) 22 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)

C-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1 306 45 75, fax (+386) 1 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €5 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.

Turag4all Tel. (+386) 30 641 440, info@premiki.com,

www.premiki.com. The first travel agency in Slovenia that is specialised in accessible tourism for people with special needs, Turag4All (or the Tourist Agency for All) was organised by the Slovenian Association for Mental Health in cooperation with both the National Tourist Association and the Institute for Counselling, Promotion and Development of Accessible Tourism. Its aim is to contribute to the development of tourism for people with special needs by combining supply and demand for disabled-friendly tourists and creating a network of disabled-friendly tourist suppliers.

Unique Slovenia Rakovnik 132, Medvode, tel. (+386)

1 361 62 44/(+386) 31 519 336, info@unique-slovenia. si, www.unique-slovenia.si. As one of the world’s most geographically diverse countries, Slovenia offers almost limitless possibilities for would-be visitors - and no one is better at arranging custom tours than the team at Unique Slovenia. From the standard trips to Bled and Ljubljana to wine tours and fly fishing to boat trips and helicopter rides, they can arrange pretty much anything you can think of and then some. Business and VIP services are also one of their specialities, with everything including limousines and private jets available.

Yuhey tourist agency N-3, Zaloška 143, tel. (+386)

40 813 677, info@yuhey-slovenia.com, www.yuheyslovenia.com. A smaller locally-based tour agency that works in cooperation with several hotels and hostels as well as the Tourist Information Centre. They can arrange a variety of day trips and excursions throughout Slovenia. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

April - May 2012

Shopping

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill, Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you would like a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.

Art & Antiques For antique and art lovers, you will be glad to know that Ljubljana hosts its very own Antique Flea market, every Sunday by the Ljubljanica River at the Cankerjevo nabrezje embankment from 8am-2pm. Various objects include ornaments, furniture, books and paintings many of which are still fit for use. Art workshops and studios are also dotted about town displaying local works from Lubljana’s vibrant creative life.

Books

Mladinska Knjiga C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386)1 241 46 84, fax (+386)1 252 40 57, konzorcij@mk-trgovina. si, www.mladinska.com. The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English language books in the country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Tax free shopping If you’re a resident of a non-EU member state, you’re eligible to take advantage of tax free shopping while visiting Slovenia. If you spend over €50 at any shop displaying the Global Refund ‘Tax Free’ logo, they can issue you with a special Refund Cheque when you pay. At shops that don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant purchases assuming you’ll receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you have a layover in another EU country on your way home. Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to impossible to get the official stamps you need.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Check out Tru Trussardi’s new 2012 eyewear collection at it’s shop on Miklošičeva Cesta

Department Stores

Maxi Market C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14

76 68 00, info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. Slovenia’s most storied department store recently received an extensive interior makeover, bringing the modern shopping experience to the heart of the city centre while still maintaining the building’s landmark façade. Cosmetics, accessories, men’s and women’s fashion - including collections from several noted Slovene designers - are spread across the top three floors, whereas the basement level is home to arguably the country’s best supermarket. Several other shops, boutiques and restaurants are located in the brightly lit underground arcade on the same premises. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Midas C-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00, info@midas.si, www.midas.si. A trade house on four floors of Midas offers global brands in the world of fashion such as: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Moncler, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani, Diesel, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Bluamrine and Givechy. Clothing, footwear, bags and other fashion accessories to impress most fashion enthusiasts. There’s also a selection of children’s fashion including items from Gucci, Prada, D&G and Hugo Boss. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nama C-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@ nama.si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, this well established department store provides several floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion

Galerija Emporium D-3, Prešernov Trg 5a, tel. (+386)

1 30 84 210, info@galerijaemporium.si, www.galerijaemporium.com. After nearly a year of renovations, this luxury department store opened in the beautiful Art Nouveau Urbanc Building in September 2010. Located right on Prešeren Square, Galerija Emporium is a shoe and accessories Mecca, offering over 20,000 shoes from some 100 different brands, more than 2,000 bags, and five floors of designer clothing from the world’s top names for both men and women. And even if you’re not in need of any clothing or accessories, the building itself is worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

iBlues D-2, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386)590 74 294, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. While iBlues may sound like Apple’s new line of designer anti-depressants, it’s actually one of the diverse brands of the Italian-based fashion house Marella, which is known for its sensual and feminine designs and fascinating use of shapes and colours. iBlues’ Spring/ Summer 2012 line is intended for women who like to play with fashion - always experimenting, but never exaggerated. Prints with bold colour combinations are one of the main focuses, while jackets and dresses take advantage of new materials such as techno satin and stretch viscose. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. La Perla D-2, Miklošičeva 7a, tel. (+386) 1 434 00 60, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. La Perla’s new Spring/ Summer 2012 collection harkens back to the 1960s, a time when girls dreamt of having breakfast at Tiffany’s. It was not only a time of euphoria and revolution, but also one that combined elegance and negligence. The distinctly careless attitudes of this time are embodied by lightweight fabrics and bright pastels. In contrast, the new swimwear line is inspired by Pop Art, with bold forms and colours. Overall, La Perla’s range of styles and colours makes its lingerie and swimwear an ideal gift for that special (and pampered!) lady in your life. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. NEW

Malloni D-3, Mačkova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 721 702, mal-

loni.ljubljana@gmail.com, www.malloni.com. With roots dating back to a small central Italian shoemaking workshop in the 1950s, over the past few decades the Malloni Group has greatly expanded and diversified its lines of women’s fashion, but still remains a family-run business - now in the third generation. The fashion house’s first Ljubljana boutique will open in the old town in April 2012, just steps away from most of the city’s major sights. In addition to the main Malloni label, which focuses on prêt-à-porter fashion, the shop will also feature the I-Malloni line (for creative, trendy designs), Malloni Tricot (for knitwear), and Ixos (for innovative footwear and accessories). QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Mandarina Duck C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10, www.bags.si. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the glitterati, including items for women, men, travel and work. Look out for the shop window full of wooden ducks. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marella C-3, Slovenska 28a, tel. (+386) 1 426 92 44, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Marella has a fun, youthful feel that makes it a comparatively relaxed environment in which to outfit yourself with the latest high-end clothing. The brand was conceived in 1973 to offer fashionable, top quality clothing at affordable prices. This tradition has continued, and Marella’s beautifully designed clothing is within the financial reach of the discerning, professional ‘everywoman’. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection is obsessed with one item in particular: the jacket. The range of jackets on offer are suitable for most any occasion, all of which present an appearance of relaxed elegance and feminine sensuality. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Marina Rinaldi D-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. (+386) 14 33 04 85, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. The theme of Marina Rinaldi’s collection this season is an explosion of colours, patterns and nostalgia. The expectedly colourful collection includes both bright tones as well as pastels, with some timeless black and white items also included. One view of the collection could be called either ‘Impact of Africa’ or ‘Ethnic Style’, but another view is that of the ‘Roaring Twenties’ or the ‘Jazz Period’. It is ideal for the tall or plus-size modern woman with a sophisticated yet casual sense of style who wishes to display her femininity in a fashionable but edgy and mysterious way. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2012

Shopping

Shopping women’s clothing at the cutting-edge of fashion, but also caters to the style-conscious man, with a sophisticated range of male clothing. This season the guiding line of the men’s collection is the combination of nature and design - emphasising a natural appearance with strong contrasts. Similarly, the Spring/Summer 2012 collection for women is based on a fresh concept of minimalism, and is defined by three unique moments: party boutique (which draws inspiration from the 1970s), working boutique (a professional, functional style), and holiday boutique (an active, everyday style for leisure activities). QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

(+386) 1 251 10 18, spinvinyl33@masicom.net, www. spinvinyl.si. Ljubljana’s cult old town second-hand record shop not only stocks a magnificent collection of 12-inch oddities including copies of what’s generally considered to be the first punk album released behind the Iron Curtain (from the legendary Slovenian outfit, Pankrti) but is also one of the best places to stock up on information about what’s happening in and around the alternative music scene in the city. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Photography

Bauta D-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)59 939 428,

info@morris.si, www.morris.si. When entering Max Mara, words like ‘elegant’, ‘sophisticated’ and ‘classy’ inevitably spring to mind. The shop positively glows with these qualities, offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious ladies’ attire. Staff are always nearby to assist if needed but keep a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling any pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax range, which presents high fashion at its highest while retaining an innovative individualism. This year’s Spring/Summer collection explores new horizons, with clean straight lines, athletic and minimalist cuts, and tailored sophisticated designs. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Niti Niti C/D-4, Breg 4, tel. +386 (0)1 426 40 78/+386 (0)41 210 001, info@nitiniti.si, www.nitiniti.si. Part art gallery, part design boutique and part knitting accessory shop, Niti Niti is Ljubljana’s first temple devoted strictly to the art of knitting, knitwear and other wool creations. The concept is the brainchild of Slovene architect and designer Simona Muc, who brings together her own work as well as that of several of the world’s leading designers in the area of knitted fashion, including Igor Galaš, Christien Meindertsma and Florence Wetterwald (the latter being best known for her Bla Bla line of children’s products). QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Studio Hosiery D-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel. (+386) 1 430 25 77, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Studio Hosiery’s range of beachwear, shirts, stockings, socks and tights and other Max Mara bodywear mean that between it and neighbouring stores like Tru Trussardi and La Perla, you can outfit yourself in the most trendsetting attire from the ground up, as it were. A perfect place to begin, or conclude, your upmarket shopping spree. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Tru Trussardi D-3, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386) 59 074 299, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Like its nearby sister stores, Max Mara and La Perla, Tru Trussardi offers a range of

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Spin Vinyl Rock’n’Roll D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 13, tel.

The best place in the city to buy flowers is the small alleyway running behind the Cathedral between Vodnikov Trg and Pogačarjev Trg. You’ll be able to find a dozen or so vendors hawking their colourful wares from early morning till late afternoon. The flower market is one of the only places in Ljubljana where a bit of haggling will be rewarded, and if you show up around closing time you may even be able to pick up some still passable bouquets for free.

NEW

Max Mara D-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 426 58 80,

Slovenia’s fertile soil and mild Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect breeding ground for a variety of fruits and vegetables. The markets bring about the freshest produce from the local villages and farms along with dairy products and meats. The Central Market at Vodnikov Trg and Pogacarjev Trg, designed by the famous architect Joze Plecnik, is a particularly excellent place both for shopping and socialising.

Music Shops

Flowers

All of Ljubljana’s sights in one convenient location!

Markets

info@bauta.si, www.bauta.si. Selling hand-made and ecological products from the briefly independent and culturally unique region of Prekmurje in the far northeast of Slovenia, this small shop on Mestni Trg is the kind of place were even Slovenes can find new and unusual products. In addition to various culinary items (eg olive and pumpkin oil, jams, juices, dried pasta and cured meats) and alcoholic beverages, there is also a small selection of art pieces, including paintings, photography and sculptures - all of which are produced by Prekmurje-based artists. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Čokoladnica Cukrček D-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. (+386) 1 421 04 53, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek. si. A charming, family-run business with three shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Piranske Soline D-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. (+386) 1425 01 90, www.soline.si. Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of life’s essentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath salts and scrubs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Trgovina Ika D-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si. RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Foto Beseničar Dunajska 57, tel. (+386) 12 80 08 02, www.fotobesenicar.si. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Foto Grad D-1/2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 14 39

29 00, info@fotograd.com, www.fotograd.com. A small but decent selection of accessories plus developing and passport photographs on request. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Foto Tivoli C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 14 22 36 30, cankarjeva@foto-tivoli.si, www.foto-tivoli.si. One of the better photography shops in the city centre, selling not only the usual supply of cameras and accessories but also a wide range of photographic paper and chemicals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping centres Ljubljana may boast more shopping centres per capita than any other city in Europe, with even more scheduled to open over the next several years. Most are located on the city’s outskirts near the ring road, including the largest, BTC and City Park, in the northeast, Rudnik in the south and Mercator Centre in the northwest.

BTC City M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 85 22 22, info@btc.si, en.btc-city.com. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Citypark M-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1 587 30 50, info@citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Mercator Center Ljubljana I/J-1, Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. (+386) 15 13 99 52, info@mercator.si, www. mercator.si. A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Supernova M-6, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 14 28 88 83, info@supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Sports & Recreation

Intersport C-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,

intersport@mercator.si, www.intersport.si. Everything you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2012

Golf

golf Golf pro shops Golf Clarus M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 9), tel. +386 (0)1 200 09 18, golf@clarus.si, www. clarus.si/golf. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. Gowf! C-2/3, Ajdovščina 4, tel. +386 (0)40 819 819, gowf@siol.net, www.gowf.si. QOpen 10:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Trnovo C/D-3, tel. +386 (0)41 76 64 40, info@ golftrnovo.com, www.golftrnovo.com. Located along the ring road to the south of the city centre, Trnovo may not be the most beautiful golf course in Slovenia, but its aesthetic shortcomings are compensated for by its proximity to Ljubljana and the fact that its the only course in the country that does not officially require a golf license to play. The green fees are also the lowest around, although you will have to play the same nine holes twice if you want to get in a full 18-hole round. Q Green fee is €32/20 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €35/23 on weekends and holidays.

Arboretum Rudnik pri Radomljah 1a, tel. +386 (0)1

Photo courtesy of Kongres Magazine

Grad Otočec Otočec, tel. +386 (0)7 30 75 627/+386

(0)41 30 44 44, golf.otocec@terme-krka.si, www.termekrka.si. Q Mon-Fri €40/25 for 18/9-holes. Sat-Sun & Holidays €50/30, early bird special (Mon-Fri before 11:00) €30/18.

Lipica Lipica 5, tel. +386 (0)5 734 63 73, fax +386 (0)5 739 17 25, golf@lipica.org, www.lipica.org.

Olimje Olimje 24, Podčetrtek, tel. +386 (0)3 818 24 80, fax +386 (0)3 582 90 67, info@amon.si, www.amon.si.

831 80 80, fax +386 (0)1 831 80 91, uprava@golfarboretum.si, www.golfarboretum.si. Q Green fee is €33/28 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €45/40 on weekends and holidays.

Ptuj Mlinska 13, Ptuj, tel. +386 (0)2 788-9110, fax +386

Bovec Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 466 900/+386 (0)40 382 229, fax +386 (0)5 3896 102, info@golfbovec.si, www.golfbovec.si.

Zlati Grič Škalce 91, Slovenske Konjice, tel. +386 (0)3

(0)2 788-9111, golf@golfinvest-ptuj.si, www.golf-ptuj. si. Q Green fee is €40/30 for 18/9-holes on weekdays and €45/35 on weekends and holidays.

758 03 62, fax +386 (0)3 758 03 82, golf@zlati-gric.si, www.zlati-gric.si.

Golf Courses In the past decade or so golf in Slovenia has grown from a minor curiosity into a full-fledged recreational sport enjoyed by thousands of locals and visitors alike. While slovenia may be a small country in terms of square kilometres, its geographical diversity makes it an especially interesting destination for golfers. There are now a dozen courses in the country, nearly all of which are within a one-hour drive of Ljubljana - including the nine-hole Trnovo course located just south of the city centre. Trnovo is also conveniently the only course in the country at which non-licensed golfers can officially play, although in practice many courses will waive this requirement for foreigners who can persuasively attest to their skills (and pay the green fee).

Bled Golf & Country Club Kidričeva 10c, tel. +386

(0)4 537 77 11, fax +386 (0)4 537 77 22, golfcourses@ hotelibled.com, www.golfbled.com. Bled Golf Course first opened in 1937 and was redesigned by famous golf architect Donald Harradine in 1972. It’s the oldest golf course in Slovenia and is said to be one of the most beautiful golf courses in central Europe. The facility comprises the 18-hole King’s Course and the 9-hole Lake Course, and is the only Slovenian golf course on the Golf World Magazine list of Top 100 Golf Courses in Continental Europe - coming in at number 51.

Diners Ljubljana Smlednik 200, tel. +386 (0)51 623

883/+386 (0)59 211 720, info@golf-ljubljana.si, golfljubljana.si. The Diners Club Golf Course is a wonderfully arranged and well-maintained 18-hole course situated only a 15 minute drive from Ljubljana. Opened in 2008, it is the newest course in Slovenia, and features fast greens, good fairways and wide teeing areas. The facilities also include a large driving range that is lit by artificial light at night, and as it is a member of Diners there is also a world-class restaurant

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in the clubhouse. Q Green fee is €55/35 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €60/40 on weekends.

Mokrice Rajec 4, tel. +386 (0)7 457 42 46, fax +386

(0)7 495 70 07, golf@terme-catez.si, www.terme-catez. si. On the hills surrounding the spectacular Mokrice Castle is a 70 hectare, 18-hole golf course of the same name. Designed by world famous golf architect Donald Harradine, the course is built around the natural configuration of the landscape and has been described as a masterpiece of both imagination and design by professional golfers around the world. The course runs through a medieval forest, and exquisitely kept English park and many natural obstacles (including a lake), making it one of the more challenging courses in Slovenia. In the event that the weather conspires against you, you can still take advantage of the state-of-the-art indoor golf simulator located in the sport centre at Terme Čatež, which allows you to play dozens of well-known courses using real clubs and balls. QGreen fee is €40/30 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €50/33 on weekends and holidays. Guests of Mokrice Castle or any of the hotels at Terme Čatež receive a 30% discount.

Moravske Toplice Kranjčeva 12, Moravske Toplice, tel.

+386 (0)2 512 22 00, fax +386 (0)2 548 16 07, info@ terme3000.si, www.terme3000.si. Situated in the far northeast of the country - at the edge of the vast Pannonian Plain in Slovenia’s Prekmurje region - this fine nine-hole course is a welcome addition to the vast Terme 3000 resort. When building the course, special attention was paid to the preservation of the original flora and fauna of the area, which has led to some quite uniquely-shaped (and challenging) greens, fairways and sand traps. Q Green fee is €44/30 for 18/9holes on weekdays and €49/35 on weekends and holidays. Early bird special (Mon-Fri start before 10:00) €37.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2012

46 monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf 18.3.2009 0:47:20 Lifestyle