Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

August -- September September 2009 2009 August

France Prešeren

Poet and eponymous national icon, but no Romeo

Top 5 Souvenirs

Salt, mercury & drunk pears - find out which one didn’t make the list

Happy Times

Our new Gay & Lesbian section makes its début

Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY

of Ljubljana In Your Pocket

N°7 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Welcome to the centre of attention!

C

M

Y

The centre of top fashion, beauty and refined taste.

Open: Monday-Friday: 9.00 - 21.00 Saturday: 8.00 - 15.00 Mercator, d.d.

Maximarket, Trg republike 1, Ljubljana, Slovenia Phone: +386 1 47 66 800, www.klubmaxi.si

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

c d ^ h V X X d

n g Z k Z

g d [

Contents

Houseware Gifts & Ideas

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Ljubljana

8

Getting around

9

Basics

15

Language, history and numbers

Quick Picks

20

The best of the best

Culture & Events

21

Music & the arts Sports

21 28

Where to stay

29

Business suites to hostel bunks

What to see

62

Dining & Nightlife

37

Where to eat Find something to your taste Cafés Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes Nightlife Dance and drink the night away

37

Bridges, museums and the castle

49

Bled

53

Izola

69

A picturesque lake on the sunny side of the Alps

73

Home of the Kino Otok open-air film festival

Top 5 souvenirs

76

Where to shop

77

The best of what and where to buy

Mail & Phones

85

Keep in touch by post, phone and internet

Directory

87

Lifestyle Business

87 88

Maps & Index Street Register City centre map City map Country map Index

Ambient Maxi, Trg republike 1, Ljubljana, Slovenia • Phone: +386 1 47 66 874 Open: Monday - Friday: 9.00 - 21.00 • Saturday: 8.00 - 17.00

93 92 96 97 98

Lucio Jose Martinez

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

Foreword

foreword

The dog days of summer are here, which means that for better or worse tourists pretty much have free reign of Ljubljana, as school has long since ended and the vast majority of Slovenes have decamped to various beaches around the Mediterranean and beyond (with one of the few exceptions being the tireless staff here at In Your Pocket). It also means that Mayor Janković is two months closer to achieving his goal of covering every building in the city with scaffolding and tearing up every other street. We joke of course (it’s actually every other building and every third street), but if you’re arriving by car you’ll definitely want to leave it parked and explore the city on foot.

Some of our favourite events of the year are also taking place, including the always entertaining Days of Poetry and Wine in Brda (page 24), the invigorating evenings of Yoga in the Park (page 21) and Festival Ljubljana’s series of Films Under the Stars at Ljubljana Castle (page 21). Of course the single biggest event of the season will likely be when the ancient - but apparently more popular than ever - Madonna performs at the Hipodrom in Stožice on 20 August (page 22). This issue also sees the inclusion of a gay and lesbian section (page 61) for the first time - our belated contribution to the worldwide pride events that took place earlier in the summer. If your travels bring you anywhere else in Slovenia there’s a good chance we can help there too, as our guides now cover Maribor, Bled (along with Bohinj and Kranjska Gora) and all 46 noteworthy kilometres of Slovenia’s Adriatic coast.

Cover story Named for Slovenia’s most famous poet and national icon (see opposite), pedestrian-only Prešerenov Trg, or Prešeren Square, is the heart of Ljubljana and it would only be a slight exaggeration to say that every sight, restaurant and café in the city is just a short walk away. As such, it serves as the city’s de facto meeting place for locals and tourists alike.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Ljubljana In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 604 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana Published 20 000 copies.

Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket

Press Box

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.”

New York Times

“Tops for Central and Eastern Europe. Back in 1991 during a long night of drinking, four guys living in Vilnius came up with the idea to create an online city guide for the Lithuanian capital, which at the time had no telephone directory. The result? This online collection of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides to more than 50 cities across the region, from Derry to Tartu. For most cities, content runs deep: there are more than 30 restaurants and 11 clubs listed under Brasov, for example. Plus, news, maps and blogs.

You can even tune into a local radio station. Browse around the site for interesting finds, such as a Prague hotel that was formerly a theater and still retains original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.”

Forbes.com

Our team in Slovenia have been most active of lates, this spring preparing now fewer than three brand new In Your Pockets, to Bled, Maribor and Portoroz. The same team is also responsible for the buzz of activity around Banja Luka and Sarajevo in Bosnia, where In Your Pockets are in the final stages of research and development. Not content with the two countries they have already well and truly Pocketed, they have now turned west and have their eyes set firmly on Venice.

In nearby Croatia new guides to all your favourite resorts are now available, including Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Split and Zadar, while seasonal, annual guides are also now out in Parnu, Estonia, and Klaipeda and Kaunas in Lithuania.

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron, Irena Jamnikar Writers Ian Roh, Francisco Alvarez, Elliott Foxton, Alina Stylianou, Yuri Barron, Craig Turp Research Richard Schofield, Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Yuri Barron, Zavod za turizem Ljubljana Cover photo Martina Meglič Sales & Circulation Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Sales & Operations Management

Karmen Hribar, tel. 030 316 603 Žan Nekrep, tel. 030 316 606 Barbara Žlender, tel. 030 316 601

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

“Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversifying. Print off your own PDFs…” The Times, April 18, 2008 (In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet scandal).

“In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are impressively up to date and clearly written by people who live in the city. Invaluable” The Sun Herald (Australia)

“Inyourpocket.com was the first online travel guide to come up with the idea of offering free downloadable city guides in printable (PDF) format.”

The Guardian

“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-offact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.”

The Irish Times

“Practical and honest. It‘s like having a friend and an advisor all in one.“ La Repubblica

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Famous people: France Prešeren France Prešeren is without question the greatest S l o ve n e p o e t a n d a r gu a b l y t h e c o u n t r y’s m o s t i m p o rtant cultural figure. Since his death in 1849, h is na m e an d image have b e c om e u bi q uitous throughout Slovenia with countless squares, roads, s o c i e ti e s a n d theatres named after him, while his image curre n t l y a d o r n s Slovenia’s twoeuro coin (and was previously on the thousand tolar note). In 1989 the seventh stanza of one of his later works, the patriotic Zdravlijca (The Toast), was chosen as the national anthem. Perhaps most notably however, the anniversary of his death on the 8th of February, is celebrated each year as the national day of cultural. All in all, not a bad legacy for an unsuccessful lawyer who only wrote poetry in his spare time and whose lifetime output can be contained in a single volume.

Born in the village of Vrba in what is today the Gorenjska region of north west Slovenia, Prešeren’s mother had wanted him to become a priest - which seems something of a common theme among famous Slovenes.

Instead he attended law school in the imperial capital Vienna beginning in 1821, finally acquiring a degree some seven years later. Upon his return to Ljubljana, he was employed as an assistant in a law firm - although he had wanted to practice as an independent lawyer his applications were repeated rejected until only two years before his death. In 1833, he met the woman who would become the great love of his life and muse of his later works, Julija Primic. Unfortunately for Prešeren, her wealthy merchant family didn’t think much of the young law clerk, and any relationship between the two was all but out of the question. Prešeren finally accepted this fact after three years of failed courtship, and went on to father three children out of wedlock with a woman of more modest social status. By all accounts, Prešeren’s life was an exceptionally unhappy one, filled with constant rejection, the death of close friends, little recognition of his poetry and not coincidentally, severe drinking problems.

However, as is often the case, personal miser y gave birth to lasting artistic achievement, and today Prešeren is considered among the greatest European romanticists. His reputation only began to grow with the publication of his collected poems in 1866, which was prefaced by a now well-known essay on the significance of his work. And the rest, as they say, is history.

August - September 2009

Arriving in Ljubljana Arriving by plane

Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

Arriving by train

Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.

Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a train information bureau immediately to the right and currency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

Arriving by bus

All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The temporary prefabricated station building, serving passengers until the opening of the new combined train and bus station optimistically scheduled for 2010, features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only

Getting around

If Things Go Wrong The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambulance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at University Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful Emergency Words: NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengenagreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

Public transport Ljubljana’s compact but excellent network of buses is easy to use - though most visitors get around most sights by walking. Buses run between 03:30 and 00:20. One-way tickets cost €0,80 when purchased at kiosks, the LPP ticket offices or at post offices; on the bus a ticket costs €1. Public transport passes cost €4 per day, €15 per week, €17-42.50 per month and €420 per year. See also the public transport map.

LPP (Ljubljanski potniški promet) B-2, Slovenska 56, tel. 430 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si. Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56, Celovška 160, Bavarski dvor and at the central bus station. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Buses

Arriving by car

Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently whisk you to all corners of the country. See also the national and international bus schedules in this guide.

International train schedule From Ljubljana

First 06:15 02:00 08:05 09:27 06:20 09:27 06:20 09:27 02:30 05:45 07:26 02:00 20:48

Last 21:15 08:40 07:25 23:50 14:53 23:50 14:53 23:50 17:25 23:50 21:15

To Ljubljana

City BELGRADE BUDAPEST GRAZ MUNICH OPATIJA PRAGUE RIJEKA SALZBURG VENICE VIENNA VILLACH ZAGREB ZURICH

First 05:50 12:03 06:34 08:27 13:08 07:14 12:57 01:34 21:20 07:56 04:07 07:00 21:40

Last 15:18 16:35 18:37 23:40 20:56 17:11 20:45 14:12

*

4 2 4 3 2 2 2 3 1 15:57 3-8 19:27 7 23:35 7 1

All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December 12, 2009

*Buses per day

From the 1st March 2009, you are able to buy a day train travel card, with which you can use for traveling in between Ljubljana’s 15 train stations (Ljubljana, Ljubljana Zalog, Ljubljana Polje, BTC, Ljubljana Rakovnik, Ljubljana Vodmat, Brezovica, Ljubljana Tivoli, Medno, Ljubljana Vižmarje, Ljubljana Stegne, Litostroj, Ljubljana Črnuče, Ljubljana Ježica and Ljubljana Brinje). The price is 2€ for an adult and 1€ for children between the ages of 6-12 years old. It is valid for 00:01 – 24:00 on the day of purchase.

Old timey cars in old town

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

National bus schedule From Ljubljana First

Last

06:00 10:15 05:10 17:20

22:30 20:10 22:30 17:20

05:30 11:35 05:30 03:25 05:30 05:30 07:10 05:30

23:00 17:20 23:00 21:35 22:30 06:08 22:25 19:30

To Ljubljana

City First BLED 05:00 CELJE 04:50 GROSUPLJE 04:23 MURSKA 05:45 SOBOTA POSTOJNA 06:07 MARIBOR 06:52 NOVA GORICA 04:45 KOPER 04:56 JESENICE 05:44 KRANJ 05:15 NOVO MESTO 05:45 KRAJNSKA 05:20 GORA

Last

*

22:30 18:10 21:45 05:45

18-22 5-9 50 1

21:10 13:35 19:45 19:30 20:44 23:00 15:28 20:20

20 3-4 15 13 14 50 10 15

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until October 1, 2009

*Buses per day

Bus station (Avtobusno Postajališče) C-1, Trg

Osvobodilne Fronte (OF), tel. 234 46 00, fax 234 46 01, av tobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, w w w. ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go.

Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure.

The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

Trains Slovenian Railways (Slovenske železnice) does an admirable job of running an efficient network with clean trains, which are usually on time. Their website at www. slo-zeleznice.si contains a wealth of information in English including live information on train delays as well as an online timetable. See the national and international train schedules in this guide for the main destinations.

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) C-1, Trg Osvobod-

ilne Fronte, tel. 291 33 32, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice. si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.

Car rental The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

August - September 2009

10

Getting around AGIO rent a car H-1, Celovška cesta 228, tel. 059

043 719/031 727 777, fax 059 047 779, agio@t-2.net, prevozi-agio@t-2.net, www.agio.si. Located in the outskirts of the city, Agio offers a full range of vehicles sizes and classes and will deliver your car free of charge within 30km of the company. They also offer a great service where you can rent a car with a driver if you’re not so confident behind the wheel or feel like impressing your friends. QOpen 8:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 12:00. Average age of cars is 6 months.

Cars from 30€ per day, without additional duties.

Atet H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. 513 70 17, info@atet.si, www. atet.si. Cars from €30 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 98 48, open 08:00-22.00.

AutoRent C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 5, tel.

234 46 50, ljcity@rentacarslo.com, www.rentacarslo. com. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14 , open 08:00-22:00.

Avant H-1, Dunajska 140, tel. 589 08 50, national@avant-

car.si, www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. Cars from €35 per day.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Airport office tel. (04) 589 08 68, open 08:00 - 22:00.

Avis C-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. 583 87 72, rez.center@avis.si, www.avis.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00.

Budget Rent a Car B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. 421 73 40, ljubljana.dt@budget.si, www.budget.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.

Carrent D-1, Štihova 13, tel. 433 30 82. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Europcar C-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. 031 38 20 52, reservations@europcar.si, sl.europcar.si. Cars from €36 per day.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00.

Petrol Petrol service stations with HIP HOP store in Ljubljana BS LJUBLJANA (I-V), CELOVŠKA 226 CELOVŠKA CESTA 226 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 50 08 900, Fax: 01 50 08 905 Non stop BS LJUBLJANA DOLENJSKA DOLENJSKA CESTA 136 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 12 690, Fax: 01 42 12 691 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 06:00 - 22:00 Sun: 07:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA (I) ,DUNAJSKA 130 DUNAJSKA CESTA 130 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 56 53 490, Fax: 01 56 53 491 Non stop BS LJUBLJANA VIČ (II), TRŽAŠKA 131 A TRŽAŠKA CESTA 131A , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 560, Fax: 01 42 36 561 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 07:00 - 20:00 Sun: 07:00 - 20:00 BS LJUBLJANA RUDNIK (I-S), DOLENJSKA 157 A DOLENJSKA CESTA 157A , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 12 660, Fax: 01 42 12 661 Mon - Fri: 05:00 - 21:00, Sat: 07:00 - 21:00, Sun: 08:00 - 21:00 BS LJUBLJANA (II) ,ŠMARTINSKA 101 ŠMARTINSKA CESTA 101 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 43 666, Fax: 01 54 67 000 Every day: 06:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA VIČ (III) TRŽAŠKA CESTA 130 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 570 Fax: 01 42 36 571 Non stop BS LJUBLJANA ,TIVOLSKA 43 TIVOLSKA CESTA 43 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 43 03 610 Fax: 01 43 03 615 Non stop

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

BS LJUBLJANA ,POLJE 51 POLJE 51 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 91 040 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 20:00 Sat: 07:00 - 20:00 BS LJUBLJANA (III) ,DUNAJSKA 70 DUNAJSKA CESTA 70 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 43 64 770, Fax: 01 43 64 775 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 06:00 - 22:00, Sun: 07:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA BARJE (I-S) CESTA DVEH CESARJEV 71 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 530, Fax: 01 42 36 534 Non stop BS LJUBLJANA BARJE (II-J) CESTA DVEH CESARJEV 73 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 540, Fax: 01 42 36 540 Non stop BS DOMŽALE (I) LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 2 , DOMŽALE Tel: 01 72 19 020, Fax: 01 72 13 026 BS DOMŽALE (II), ČEŠMINOVA 1 ČEŠMINOVA ULICA 1 , DOMŽALE Tel: 01 72 19 010, Fax: 01 72 19 010 Non stop BS KAMNIK (II) LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 10A , KAMNIK Tel: 01 83 10 230, Fax: 01 83 10 231 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 06:00 - 22:00 Sun: 07:00 - 21:00 BS TRZIN LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 56 , TRZIN Tel: 01 56 23 470, Fax: 01 56 23 474 Every day: 06:00 - 22:00 BS MEDVODE (I-V) GORENJSKA CESTA 14 , MEDVODE Tel: 01 36 16 010, Fax: 01 36 16 011 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 23:00 Sat: 06:00 - 23:00 Sun: 07:00 - 21:00

BS KAMNIK (III) PEROVO 24 , KAMNIK Tel: 01 83 10 470, Fax: 01 83 10 471 Every day: 05:00 - 23:00 BS BOROVNICA LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 10 , BOROVNICA Tel: 01 75 48 077, Fax: 01 75 48 078 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 21:00 Sat: 06:00 - 21:00 Sun: 07:00 - 14:00 BS IG LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 69 , IG Tel: 01 28 64 062, Fax: 01 28 64 063 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 21:00 Sat: 06:00 - 21:00 Sun: 07:00 - 19:00 BS LJUBLJANA ČRNUČE (II), ŠTAJERSKA CESTA 10 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 56 35 610, Fax: 01 56 35 611 Mon - Fri: 05:30 - 23:00 Sat: 06:00 - 23:00 Sun: 07:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA, LETALIŠKA CESTA 38 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 52 40 140, Fax: 01 52 40 139 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 08:00 - 21:00 BS LJUBLJANA ZALOG ZALOŠKA CESTA 255 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 520 36 38, Fax: 01 520 36 82 Mon - Fri: 05:00 - 21:00 Sat: 07:00 - 21:00 Sun: 07:00 - 18:00 BS LJUBLJANA, KAJUHOVA 32 S KAJUHOVA ULICA 32S , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 43 961 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00 Sat: 06:00 - 22:00 Sun: 08:00 - 20:00

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

12

Getting around

Getting around Travel Agencies

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable.

The starting rate is €1, the rate per kilometre between €1-1.70, with no extra charge at night. Waiting costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates.

Metro Taxi , tel. 080 11 90.

Protocol , tel. 041 62 15 04, info@protocol.si,

www.protocol.si.

Rumeni Taxi , tel. 041 73 18 31, info@rumenitaxi. com, www.rumenitaxi.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Taxi Društvo Ljubljana , tel. 234 90 00, info@ taxi-ljubljana.si, www.taxi-ljubljana.si.

Taxi Intertours , tel. 520 97 04, info@taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours.si.

Taxi Laguna , tel. 080 11 17.

Airlines

Adria Airways (JP) H-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. 369 10

Hertz B/C-2, Trdinova 9, tel. 434 01 47, ljubljana@ hertz.si, www.hertz.si. Cars from €38 per day. QOpen

07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 69 99, open 08:00-22:00.

Sixt C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 7, tel. 234 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. Cars from €34 per day. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14, open 08:00-22:00.

Technoplus Bratov Kunovar 6, tel. 563 50 24/041 679 042, fax 563 50 25, info@rentacarplus.si, rentacarplus. si. Cars from 28€ per day.

Thrifty Zgornji Brnik 130 A, reservation@subrosa.hr, www.thrifty.si. Q Airport office tel. (04) 236 57 50, open from 07:00-21:00. Cars from €33 per day.

Airport

Ljubljana airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Zgornji

Brnik 130a, tel. 206 10 00, fax 202 12 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free wifi for internet addicts, a selection of restaurants and bars, banks, a currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed).

Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:0020:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

00, fax 436 88 06, booking@adria.si, www.adria. si. Slovenia’s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gat wick, Manch ester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de Gaulle. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airpor t office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00 Air France (AF) B-3, Igriska 5, tel. 244 34 47, fax 244 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance. si. Flights to Paris CDG. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 20 61 674 . Open two hours before flight.

Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. 202 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30, Sun 06:30 - 10:00.

Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. 206 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brussels.

QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. 206 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.com. Flights to Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Only by the time of flight is working on Saturday from 05:30-07:00 and Sunday from 13:00-15:00.

Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. +44 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted.

Q Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 77. Open two hours before flight.

JAT Airways (JU) C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. 231 43 40, jat.airways@jat-lju.si, www.jat.com. Flights to Belgrade.

QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel.

(04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight.

Luf thansa B-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. 434 72 46, luf thansa@adria.si, www.luf thansa.de. No Lufthansa flights to and from Ljubljana, but they do have an office selling airline tickets. Q Open 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Malév (MA) Ljubljana Airport, tel. 206 16 65, www. malev.hu. Flights to Budapest. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) , tel. 372 680 43 28, fax 372 668 00 82, www.flysas.com.

Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, thyljubljana@ siol.com, www.turkishairlines.com. Flight to Istanbul. Q Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 80.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

For all your flight and hotel bookings, and tours.

Avantura B-2, Slovenska 40, tel. 242 00 00, fax 242 00 04, info@avantura.si, www.avantura.si. QOpen 09:00

- 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Collegium B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. 234 49 70/040 194 194, fax 234 49 78, info@collegium.si, www.collegium. si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Kažipot B-2, Čopova 5a, tel. 425 44 91, info@kazipot. com, www.kazipottours.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kompas C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. 200 63 33, prazakova@ kompas.si, www.kompas.si. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Mondial Travel B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. 234 49 72/040 192 192, info@mondialtravel.si, www.mondialtravel. sI. QOpen 09.

Relax B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. 234 56 90, relax.lj@ relax.si, www.relax.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Roundabout Pot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. 041 786 168, fax 1 5611 039, info@roundabout.si, www.roundabout. si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, tel. 230 63 20, info@ taoturizem.si, www.tao-tt.si.

Take a ride on the Ljubljanica

Flight schedule From Ljubljana

To Ljubljana

Days – – – – – 6– – 12345–– ––34––7 –2–4––7 –––4––– ––––––7 1–34––– ––––5–– ––––––7 12345–– –––––67 ––––––7 12345–– ––––––7 1–3–5–7 123456– 12345–7 –––4––– –––––6– –2––––7 1–––––– –––––6– 1234567 12345–– 12345–7 1234567

Dep. 07:15 07:30 18:35 12:45 07:25 18:20 10:30 17:40 18:00 06:45 07:50 16:00 18:20 21:30 13:30 09:45 19:50 07:30 07:40 18:45 18:45 18:20 07:50 12:15 17:00 17:55

Arr. 09:15 09:30 20:35 15:50 09:30 20:25 11:50 19:00 19:20 08:35 09:40 17:50 20:10 23:20 16:00 10:55 21:00 09:25 09:35 20:40 20:40 20:05 09:15 13:40 18:25 19:20

–––45–– 1–––––7

12:05 15:45 19:30 23:05

1––––––– –––––6– 1–3–5–7 1–––––7 1234567

13:00 13:50 15:30 23:50 23:45

16:05 16:55 18:35 02:55 02:50

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

City AMSTERDAM (JP) AMSTERDAM (JP) AMSTERDAM (JP) ATHENS (JP) BARCELONA (JP) BARCELONA (JP) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BUCHAREST-OTP (JP) BUDAPEST (MA) BUDAPEST (MA) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) DUBLIN (JP) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) HELSINKI (AY) HELSINKI (AY) HELSINKI (AY) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (TK) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (JP)

Days 12345–– –––––6– ––34––7 –2–4––7 –––4––– ––––––7 1–34––– ––––5–– ––––––7 ––––––7 12345–– –––––67 ––––––7 12345–– 1–3–5–7 123456– 12345–7 –––4––– –––––6– –2––––7 1–––––– –––––6– 1234567 12345–– 12345–– 1234567 ––––5–– –––45–– 1–––––– ––––––7 1234567 12––––– 1–3–5–7 1––––––– –––––6–

Seasonal flights Dep. 10:15 10:20 21:05 16:35 10:05 21:05 08:20 15:30 15:50 23:50 09:05 10:10 18:30 20:45 16:45 08:05 18:10 09:55 10:05 21:10 21;10 20:50 10:15 12:05 19:00 20:20 22:40 09:45 17:00 17:05 05:40 05:45 13:15 16:50 18:00

Arr. 12:00 12:05 22:50 17:35 12:00 23:00 09:40 16:50 17:10 01:30 10:45 11:50 20:10 22:25 17:30 09:15 19:20 11:45 11:55 23:00 23:00 from 24.08 00:25 11:30 13:20 20:15 21:35 23:55 11:20 18:40 18:45 06:50 06:55 14:30 18:00 19:10

August - September 2009

13

14

Basics

Getting around Flight schedule continued From Ljubljana Days Dep. – 2 – – – – – 11:35 – – – – – – 7 12:15 – – – 4 – – – 13:00 – – – – 5 – – 14:00 1 – 3 – 5 6 – 07:25 – 2 – 4 – – 7 18:25 – 2 – 4 – – – 10:25 – – – – – 6 – 11:00 – – – – – – 7 15:05 – – – – – 6 – 16:10 – 2 3 4 5 – – 17:35 1 – – – – – – 17:35 – – – – – 6 – 10:35 – – 3 – – – – 11:40 – – 3 – – – – 07:00 – – – – – 6 – 13:40 – – – – – – 7 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 11:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:50 1 2 3 4 5 – – 10:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 –2––56– ––––––7 123456– 1234567 12345–7 1234567 1234––– ––––5–– ––––––7 123456– 12345–7 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345–7 1234567 12345–7 –2–45–– ––3–––7 1––4––– 1234567 –2345–7 1234567 1––4–67 1234567 12345–7 –––––6– 123–––– ––––5–– –––4––– 1234567 12345–7 123456– ––––––7

23:55 06:30 08:05 18:45 07:30 16:15 13:20 15:20 17:30 06:30 14:25 13:15 23:35 15:00 20:50 13:25 23:30 06:55 18:05 00:25 13:15 23:55 07:55 11:15 15:25 18:05 18:15 07:30 18:00 18:30 07:45 14:30 19:00 19:40

Arr. 14:40 15:20 16:05 17:05 08:45 19:45 11:40 12:15 16:20 17:25 18:50 18:50 13:10 14:15 08:30 15:10 15:40 16:15 07:50 11:15 13:30 19:30 01:25 08:25 10:00 20:40 09:30 18:15 14:35 16:20 18:30 07:55 15:50 15:00 01:20 15:55 21:45 15:00 01:05 09:30 20:40 03:45 14:40 01:20 08:45 12:05 16:15 18:55 19:05 09:05 19:35 20:05 09:00 15:45 20:15 20:55

KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) LONDON-LGW (JP) LONDON-LGW (JP) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) MADRID (JP) MADRID (JP) MANCHESTER (JP) MANCHESTER (JP) MOSCOW-SVO (JP) MOSCOW-SVO (JP) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) OHRID (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (AF) PARIS-CDG (AF) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (OK) PRAGUE (OK) PRISTINA (JP) PRISTINA (JP) SARAJEVO (JP) SARAJEVO (JP) SKOPJE (LH) SKOPJE (LH) STOCKHOLM-ARN (JP) STOCKHOLM-ARN (JP) TEL AVIV-TLV (JP) TIRANA (JP) TIRANA (JP) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) WARSAW (JP) WARSAW (JP) WARSAW (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP)

To Ljubljana Days –2––––– ––––––7 –––4––– ––––5–– 1– 3 – 5 6 – –2––4–7 –2–4––– –––––6– ––––– –7 –––––6– 1–––––– –2345–– –––––6– ––3–––– ––3–––– –––––6– ––––––7 123456– 1234567 ––34––– 1–––––– –2––5–– 1234567 1234567 ––3––67 ––––––7 123456– 1234567 1234567 12345–7 –––––5– 1234––– ––––––7 12345–7 12345–7 1234567 1234567 123456– 1234567 123456– 1234567 –2–45–– ––3–––7 1––4––– 123456 1–3456– 1234567 1––4–67 1234567 –––––6– 12345–7 123–––– ––––5–– –––4––– 1234567 12345–7 123456– ––––––7

Dep. 15:20 16:00 16:55 17:50 09:45 20:45 06:50 07:25 11:25 12:35 14:00 14:00 13:50 15:20 09:15 15:55 16:40 17:05 08:55 11:55 12:00 12:10 14:25 20:15 05:40 09:40 11:00 21:20 13:15 20:00 13:40 15:05 15:50 11:45 21:35 05:00 15:45 06:15 16:25 05:30 15:50 10:15 21:15 04:55

Arr. 16:30 17:10 18:05 19:00 12:50 23:50 09:55 10:30 14:33 15:40 17:05 17:05 16:30 18:20 12:35 19:15 17:50 18:15 09:45 12:45 12:50 13:00 15:15 21:05 07:10 11:30 12:50 23:10 15:10 21:50 14:40 16:20 16:50 13:10 23:00 06:50 17:35 07:10 17:20 07:00 17:20 12:45 23:55 08:35

05:00 09:55 13:40 17:05 19:30 21:00 09:35 20:05 20:35 10:00 16:45 21:00 21:25

06:20 10:45 14:30 17:55 20:20 21:50 11:10 21:40 22:10 11:10 17:55 22:10 22:35

Full schedule at www.lju-airport.si Airline codes: AF Air France; AY Finnair; AZ Alitalia; EZY EasyJet; JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OA Olympic Airways; OK Czech Airlines; OS Austrian Airlines; SN Brussels Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; YM Montenegro Airlines. Schedule is valid until October 1, 2009. The numbers indicate days of departure: 1 is Monday, 2 is Tuesday, etc. Check all details before flying.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Disabled travellers

Politics

Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled.

Information is available from the NSIOS, tel. 430 36 46, www.nsios.si.

The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy.

The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Electricity Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.

Religion Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest of them believing in ‘something’.

Smoking

Language Slovenian is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and shares many words with other Slavic languages.

Many Slovenes also speak English, Italian, or German embarassingly well.

Money Slovenia temporarily swapped the Yugoslav dinar for the tolar in 1991, and adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Tipping It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10% for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).

NEW in TOWN? Get LJUBLJANA CARD NOW! FREE

Travel on city buses Admittance to museums & galleries City guidebook

SAVE

90 partners around the city:

UP TO

35 %

Accommodation (hotels, hostel) Taxi and car rentals Guided city tours and events Souvenirs Restaurants & bars Shops & boutiques and MORE!

Only 12.52

€ valid for 3 days (72 hours)

LJUBLJANA CARD SALES OUTLETS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES:

STIC, Krekov trg 10, TIC, Stritarjeva ulica, TIC (Railway Station), Trg OF 06, TIC Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport ABC RENT A CAR & EUROPCAR, ANTIQ HOTEL, BIT CENTER HOTEL, BOOKSHOP HAČEK (KLAGENFURT), CITY HOTEL LJUBLJANA, HOTEL LJUBLJANA, EVENTIM, FESTIVAL LJUBLJANA, FLUXUS, GLOBALTURIST, GLOBTOUR BLED, GLOBTOUR KRANJSKA GORA, GRAND HOTEL UNION, GRAND HOTEL UNION GARNI, HOSTEL CELICA, HOTEL EMONEC, HOTEL LEV, HOTEL MONS, HOTEL PARK, KONGO HOTEL & CASINO, LJUBLJANA BUS STATION, LJUBLJANA PUBLIC TRANSPORT (TICKET OFFICE), LJUBLJANA RESORT, M HOTEL, HOTEL MEDNO, RAILWAY STATION, RUMENI TAXI/YELOW TAXI, TOUR AS

BUY ON-LINE: www.ljubljanacard.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

15

Basics Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.

Major Currency Cross Rates Currency

Euro € 1. Euro € 1. U.S. $ 0.70 1. U.K. £ 1.14 1. Swiss Franc 0.65

U.S. $ 1.41 1.61 0.92

U.K. £ 0.86 0.60 0.56

Swiss Franc 1.50 1.05 1.72 -

Market values Prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices.

Product McDonald’s Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr of local beer(shop) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures

Price €2,40 €0,59 €13, 85 €1,01 €2,74 €2,80 €0,80 €4,09

Summer nights in Ljubljana

Vinjeta - A (new) Ticket to ride

Basic data Population Slovenia 2,019,406 (2007) Ljubljana 266,845 (2004) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83% Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3% Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 2.8% Official languages Slovenian Italian Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Borders Austria 318km Italy 280km Hungary 102km Croatia 670km

As of June 2008, Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. Yearly/ monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si

Street smarts Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in conversation, so while your destination may officially be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying Poljanska Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street

slovenia.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Začutite bližino narave.

Okusite harmonijo raznolikosti.

www.slovenia.info

Dolina Koritnice

Visas

slOvenia FOR YOU

16

18

history Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC when the Celts started arriving.

Roman times With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other early Germanic tribes.

Language Between the wars After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia becomes par t of the State, and then the Kingdom of the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (1872-1957) builds many of his most important buildings in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

16th to 18th Centuries Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in 1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.

Socialism & Yugoslavia Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23, 1990.

19th Century Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century.

The Old Town is preserved practically intact.

Independence & Beyond After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar, is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU presidency for half a year.

Medieval Ljubljana Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.

Special Pronunciations c – as in pizza e – as in egg g – as in go j – like y in yogurt č – as in cello š – as in ship ž – as in pleasure Basics Do you speak English? – Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ?

I don’t understand – Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)?

Good Morning – Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day – Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night – Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes – Ja (Yah) No – Ne (Nay) Hello – Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ...

I am from... – Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...

Days Monday – Ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday – Torek (TOR-ek) Wednesday – Sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday – Četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday – Petek (peh-tuck) Saturday- Sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Sunday- Nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Who? – Kdo?(K-doh) What? – Kaj?(Ky) Where? –Kje ? (Key-yay) When? – Kdaj (K-dy) How much does it cost? Koliko stane (KOH-LEE-KOH STAH-NEH)?

Places Croatia – Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka) England –Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah) Germany – Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Hungary – Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah) Ireland – Irska (Ear-skah) Netherlands- Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah) Scotland – Škotska (Shkot-skah) Venice – Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Vienna – Dunaj (Doo-nigh) Post One foreign stamp, please - Eno znamko za tujino, prosim (Eh-no z-nahm-koh zah too-YEE-noh pro- SEEM) For postcard – Za razglednico (Zah raz-GLEHD-neet-so) For letter – Za pismo (Zah pees-moh) Signs Open - Odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - Zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance – Vhod (oo-hod) Exit- Izhod (eez-hod) Push – Rini (ree-nee) Pull – Vleci (oo-LETS-ee) Travelling Bus – Avtobus (OW-toh-booze) Train – Vlak (v-LOCK) I am looking for.... – Iščem (EESH-chem) ...

One ticket, please – Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)

Old Ljubljana from above

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Dragon Bridge’s equally frightful griffins Times Now – zdaj (z-day) Later – kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Today – danes (dahn-es) Tomorrow – jutri (yoo-tree) Yesterday – včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the morning- zjutraj (z-YOO-try) In the afternoon- popoldne (poh-POLD-neh) In the evening- zvečer (z-veh-chehr) At night – ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) Restaurant Talk Menu, please – Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM) Bill, please – Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM) Do you have vegetarian food? – Imate vegetarijansko hrano (EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rah-noh)?

Bar Talk One coffee, please – Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh pro-SEEM) One beer, please – (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM) Cheers! – Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!

You have beautiful eyes – Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee) Can I have your number? Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko shteh-VEEL-koh)?

August - September 2009

19

20

quick picks

Culture & Events

Ljubljana Distilled Like A Local

On the Cheap

With The Family

Over The Top

Slightly Strange

Festivals

Eat

Drink

Do

Stari Tišler (p.47) Only a short walk from the main train station, Old Tišler’s has been serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew.

Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms available upstairs.

Gajo Jazz Club (p.58)Ljubljana’s most famous Jazz venue, with regular jam sessions, concerts by local and international artists and other events. Besides listening to music, it’s a great place for a few beers too. During the summer months the club moves outdoors to a garden opposite the main entrance to the National Gallery on Tomšičeva.

Do what most locals do in the long summer evenings, or at weekends, and head for the enormous Tivoli Park.

Almost as big as the city itself the park strectches for kilometers into the hills and is packed with things to do. You might also consider a trip out to the Postojna Cave (see page 65) of which locals are rightfully proud: it is the largest cave of its kind in Europe.

Konkurenca (p. 39) Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for some of the cheapest eats in town.

Kavarna in slaščičarna Zvezda (p. 52) a bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town.

With the Ljubljana card (€12.52) you get 3 days worth of free rides on the city bus (normally €1 a ride) as well as free admission to the city museums and galleries. You’ll be thanking yourself all the way to the bank.

Jurman (p. 42) This popular family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all under the same roof. There’s also a children’s play area outside on the astroturfed patio. It’s a good budget-conscious option and the food isn’t half-bad either.

SEM Kavarna (p 52) a trendy, industriallook café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters.

Ljubljana’s fantastic ZOO will keep the kids happy for hours. There are places to pet certain animals (not the lions of course though) and all in all there might well be more animals in here than there are people in Ljubljana (probably…). The zoo’s superb layout makes it easy to navigate. You will find it on the far side of Tivoli Park.

Pri Vitezu (p. 43) Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expensive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you.

Top: Eat & Party (p. 52) Located on the top floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this recentlyopened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, and is looking to compete internationally later this year. Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday.

Cankarjev Dom (p. 26) is host to many premier national and international musical acts, dance companies, and theater ensembles all year-round.

Check out our culture & events section (p. 31) and find a great show.

Running Sushi & Wok (p. 37) When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option to get our raw fish fix was welcomed, but we were a bit leery about the allimportant freshness department.

But as far as we can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should and there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on separate hot and cold belts.

Get yourself to Cupiterija (p. 42). Part café, part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original.

Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto.

Metelkova Mesto (p. 26) is an autonomous social centre created when artists took over former army barracks. The place is decorated in colorful graffiti and artwork and serves as the home for a number of art organizations and rock clubsGromka and Klub Channel Zero.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Summer in Ljubljana Old Town 2009 - A Summer of European Culture churches, inner courtyards and squares in the old city centre 16 June - 31August Mini poletje / Mini Summer - international puppet festival various venues 28 June- 30 August Ljubljana Festival 2009 Križanke Summer Theatre, Ljubljana Castle, Cultural and congress centre, Slovenian Philharmonic Hall, other venues 6 July – 27 August Summer Concerts in the Atrium of the City Museum of Ljubljana 2009 City Museum of Ljubljana 9 July - 13 August

Fairy-tales for children by Jana Stržinar Old city centre venues on and along the Ljubljanica river 2 August, 10:00 Potujoča hišica chlidren Theatre (Slovenia): Meadow of magical beauty - theatre performance Old city centre venues on and along the Ljubljanica river 16 August, 10:00 Rides along the Little Bargeman’s Route Ljubljanica river (departure from the Ribji Trg) 29, 30 August, 10:50 5 September, 10:50 Guest from abroad Old city centre venues on and along the Ljubljanica river 30 August, 10:00

Yoga

Trnfest 2009 KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 28 July - 31 August www.kud-fp.si Mladi levi / Young Lions 2009 - international theatre and dance festival Old Power Plant and other venues 21 - 29 August Emona Promenade 2009 The Trnovo Bridge and the Emonska ulica street 27- 30 August

Open air events

From the Earth to the Universe - photographs The Tivoli Park 17 July - 4 September Floating theatre festival Old city centre venues on and along the Ljubljanica river 28 June - 30 August Ljubljana Postman Ljubljana Old Town 1 July - 31August, 09:00 – 13:00 Film under the Stars - summer cinema at Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Castle 30 July-20 August Library under Trees The Tivoli Park 31 July -2 August, 10:00 – 20:00 7- 9 August, 10:00 – 20:00 14- 16 August, 10:00 – 20:00 21- 23 August, 10:00 – 20:00 28- 30 August, 10:00 – 20:00 Breakfast by the Ljubljanica River - open-air gallery project old city centre 1, 8, 15, 22 August, 09:00 – 16:00 12 September, 09:00 – 16:00

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Jurij Pivka Slovenia is not immune from the Yoga craze that over the past couple decades seems to have progressed from something of a fad to a common part of everyday life in the West. For the fourth consecutive year the Yoga Association of Slovenia is hosting its annual Yoga in the Park program this summer in over twenty cities and towns across the country. The sessions are free of charge and open to anyone regardless of age, physical condition or prior knowledge of Yoga, and are lead by trained and internationally licensed instructors.

In Ljubljana you can get in on the action every Monday and Thursday in Tivoli Park from now until 10 September 2009. The practice begins at 18:00 and is located towards the north end of the park not far from the Pod Turnom underpass near the National Gallery. A full schedule for all participating cities can be found on the Yoga Association’s website (in Slovene only, but fairly self-explanatory).

The Tivoli Park 3 August, 18:00 – 19:00 6 August, 18:00 – 19:00 10 August, 18:00 – 19:00 17 August, 18:00 – 19:00 20 August, 18:00 – 19:00 24 August, 18:00 – 19:00 27 August, 18:00 – 19:00 31 August, 18:00 – 19:00 7 September, 18:00 – 19:00 10 September, 18.00 - 19.00 Free admission

August - September 2009

21

Culture & Events

22

Contrasts Piano Quintet (Ukraine) - classical music Križanke Summer Theatre 3 August, 20:00 Club party with DJ’s KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 3, 7, 8 , 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18 August , 22:30 X muza (Slovenia) – etno fusion KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 5 August, 20:30

Vlado Kreslin (Slovenia) with guests - folk rock Križanke Summer Theatre 18 August, 20:30

Brass band Bežigrad & Ljubljana Veterans Brass Band - performed from the boat Špica embankment to The Dragon Bridge and back 3 September, 18:30 – 19:30 10 September, 18:30 – 19:30 European Day of Jewish Culture Židovska ulica 6 September Impressions - exhibition of art prints by children Pionirski dom (children’s cultural centre) 8 September- 29 November Exhibition of pumpkins Volčji Potok Arboretum 12 September- 18 October

Music

Summer Concerts in the Atrium of the City Museum of Ljubljana 2009 City Museum of Ljubljana 9 July - 13 August

Luis Meireles, flute (Portugal), Maria José Souza Guedes, piano (Portugal) - classical music Križanke Summer Theatre 6 August, 20:00 Karmen Pečar, violoncello & Katja Porovne Silič, guitar - classical music City Museum of Ljubljana 6 August, 21:00 European medical students’ orchestra and choir (EMSC) - classical music The Slovenian Philharmonic 9 August, 20:00 Ferus Mustafov & Džambo Aguševi Brass Band (Macedonia) - gypsy music, jazz KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 10 August, 20:30 Nuška Drašček, vocals & Blaž Jurjevčič, piano - pop, jazz City Museum of Ljubljana 13 August, 21:00 Dan 202 (Dan D and Simfonični orkester RTV SLO Križanke Summer Theatre 13 September, 20:30 Reverse Engineering - young music groups festival KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 15, 16, 22, 23 August, 20:30 Peter Ugrin Group - jazz Gornji trg square 21 August, 20:30 Kristina Svabova, guitar & Jiri Lukes, accordion (Czech Republic) - classical music City Museum of Ljubljana 26 August, 20:30 StrojMachine (Slovenia) - industrial KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 30 August, 20:30 Renato Borghetti (Brazil) - world music Cultural and congress centre 22 September, 20:30 Pero Lovšin with guests Križanke Summer Theatre 26 September, 20:00

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Madonna The Hipodrom in Stožice 20 August, 20:00

Malignant Tumour (Czech Republic), Contrasto (Italy) - crust, metal, hardcore Klub Gromka (Metelkova mesto alternative culture centre) 27 September, 22:00

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

24

Culture & Events

culture & Events Tickets Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance at the venue, or from ticket agencies.

ESITI (Programski atelje A&Z) G-2, Cesta na

Brdo 17, tel. 25 72 906, podpora@esiti.com, www. mojekarte.si. Q To 31 May: 10:00-19:00. From 1 June: 8:00-22:00 Eventim A-1, Celovška 25, tel. 430 24 05, info@ eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en. Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.

Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the Railway Station C-1, Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, tel. 433

Old Ljubljana and Cobblers’ Bridge at night

Theatre

KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre), Karunova ulica 14,

Days of Poetry and Wine

94 75, ticzp@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si.

The events ticketing office inside the railway station Q October-May: 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closedJune-September: Every day 08:00-22:00 Tourist Information Centre C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2, tel. 306 12 15, tic@visitljubljana. si, www.visitljubljana.si. Tickets for concerts, shows and other events. Q Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00.

Hiša eksperimentov (hands-on science centre), Trubarjeva cesta 39 Bubbleology - interactive science lecture 15 August, 17:00

Štefka & Poldka - stand up comedy 2 August, 21:00

Narobov: Short ones by Trnfest - improvisational theatre 2 August, 23:00

Smellogy- interactive science lecture 16 August, 17:00

StendAp - stand up comedy performances 4 August, 20:30

Centreofgravitology - interactive science lecture 22 August, 17:00

Vid Valič & Ivan Šarić: SLO Vs CRO – stand up comedy 11 August, 20:30

Toothology - interactive scence lecture 23 August, 17:00

KUD France Prešeren united artists: The Kud Variete - music and theatre performance 17 August, 20:30 Tris (Austria): Viva la revolución – clown theatre performance 19 August, 20:30 Impro liga - improvisational theatre 23 August, 23:00, 29 August, 21:00

Dance

Maša Kagao Knez - african dances workshop KUD France Prešeren (arts and cultural centre) 29 August, 12:00 30 August, 12:00 Sadler’s Wells Theatre (UK): Sutra - traditional & contemporary dance Cultural and congress centre 20 September, 20:00 Riverdance Hala Tivoli 30 September, 20:00

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

The village of Medana in the wine-growing region of Brda hosts a week-long celebration of two great Slovene passions: poetry and wine. The festivities commence on Tuesday, 25 August, with multilingual poetry readings accompanied by concerts, films and performances, exhibitions and art installations. Each evening there are wine tastings where visitors can sample high quality regional wine and socialise in a relaxed rural setting. In addition to the readings by various local and international poets, two guests of honour - Durs Grünbein of Germany and Rumen Leonidov of Bulgaria - will be reading from their recently published works.

This year they’re also taking the show on the road with smaller scale events being held in Ljubljana, Ptuj, Padna, Vrba na Gorenjskem, Volče and Krško. The festival will close on Saturday, 29 August, with a full-day programme featuring short films, open readings, children’s activities and a concert. Admission to all events is free during the first four days, while full admission to the Saturday events costs €10 for adults (€5 for students, pensioners and children) - however, this amount will be converted to a voucher that can be used towards the purchase of books. Check their website (mostly in Slovene) for more information.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

All Equal, All Different - interactive science lecture 30 August, 17:00

Galleries

Salvador Dalí: Biblia Sacra & Divine Comedy - art print exhibition 10 July- 14 November Emi Vega (Slovenia) : Paris, Paris - paintings 17 July- 16 August 28th Ljubljana Biennial of Graphic Arts 4 September- 25 October

Ljubljanski grad / Ljubljana Castle Grajska planota 1

Open space - sculptures Participating authors: Drago Tršar, Dušan Tršar, Mirsad Begić, Paola Korošec, Katja Smerdu, Marjeta Medved, Ana Kranjc, Aleksander Nišavić - Aco and Marko Glavač.

18.6. to 6.9.2009 Edi Šelhaus: Music World of the 60’s Caught in the Lens - photographs 13 August-14 October

Museums

City Museum of Ljubljana Gosposka ulica 15

Napoleon says: Illyria arise! - exhibition marking the 200th anniversary of the establishment of the Illyrian Provinces 12 May- 31 October

National Museum of Contemporary History

Celovška cesta 23 Fascism and Slovenians: Selected Images - historical exhibition 7 April-30 September

National and University Library

Turjaška ulica 1 Joseph Roth (Austria): In exile in Paris 1933-1939 overall exhibition in celebration of the 70th anniversary of death of Austrian novelist 25 May- 16 August

National Museum of Slovenia

Bežigrajska galerija 1

Muzejska ulica 1 The Ljubljanica: A River and Its Past 26 February-30 October

Roman Makše (Slovenia): Spaces - objects (20052009) 2 -30 September

Conferences

Dunajska cesta 31

Galerija Cankarjev dom Prešernova 10

After Go-Go: A New Era of Korean Art 4 Septembr- 26 October Gallerija Schwarz Koprska cesta 106/d, Vlado Stjepić (Bosnia and Herzegovina/Slovenia) - paintings 5 July-28 August

International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni grafični likovni center ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

35th annual meeting of ISPAD (International Society for Pediatric and Adolescent Diabetes) Cultural and congress centre 2-5 September 36th annual conference of European Association for Research in Industrial Economics (EARIE) Cultural and congress centre 3- 6 September

Fairs

Auto Motor Show Ljubljana 4 – 6 September Codelli Classic Cars Festival 19 – 20 September

August - September 2009

25

26

Culture & Events Cinemas Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something realeased months earlier in you own country.

Tickets cost approximately €5.

Kino Dvor C-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. 239 22 13, info@

kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.

Kinoklub Vič A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 6, tel.

241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently renovated, this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of Hollywood and other films.

Kolosej J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 520 55 00, www. kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular films inside the BTC shopping area.

Concert halls Top-end concerts are also often held at Ljubljana Castle.

Cvetličarna Mediapark J-1, Kranjčeva 20, tel. 902 63 27, info@tntevents.net, www.tntevents.net.

Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. 300 26 00, fax 300

26 28, info@gr-sejem.si, www.gr-sejem.si. Congresses, fairs and other large events.

Festivalna Dvorana H-2, Vilharjeva 11, tel. 234 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.si, www.pionirski-dom. si. A large concert and event hall built by none other than local lad Plečnik.

Hala Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. 430 67 50, justina. gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si.

Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) B-3, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. 241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in 2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly with Lebaneseborn chief conductor George Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Cultural centres To be informed on what’s going on in town, cultural centres provide up to date information on events, festivals, workshops and more.

Cankarjev dom A-3, Prešernova 10, tel. 241 71 00,

info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.

Goethe-Institut B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. 476 37 25, info@ ljubljana.goethe.org, www.goethe.de/ins/si/lju. The German cultural centre: language courses, a library with newspapers and CDs, exhibitions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Thu 13:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français B-3, Breg 12, tel. 200 05 00, www.institutfrance.si. The French cultural institute offers language courses, exhibitions, films and other events. There’s also a library with newspapers, films and music. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun.

Instituto Cervantes (Spanish cultural institute) C-4, Privoz 11, tel. 421 06 84, fax 421 06 85, aula. liubliana@cervantes.es, www.cervantes.es. The Spanish institute has no library but does offer language courses and organises events. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00.

Closed Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. KUD France Prešeren B-4, Karunova 14, tel. 283 22 88, kud@kud-fp.si, www.kud-fp.si. A venue for concerts,

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) D-2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org.

Galleries The best places to view and buy local art.

Equrna B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. 252 71 23, equrna@

volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

No admission.

Ganes Pratt B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. 251 16 33/251 16 34, info@ganes.si, www.ganes.si. This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) features some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mestna galerija 1 B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. 241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. The largest fine art exhibition space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Škuc Gallery B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax 421 31 40, www. galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. One of the cities most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring some oft he most important people in contemporary art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the box office opening hours.

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)

B-2, Čopova 14, tel. 251 08 52, info@mgl.si, www.mgl. si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kavarna Union B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. 308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Križanke Open Air Theatre B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. 241 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics for various summertime concerts and events.

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama) B-3, Erjavčeva 1, tel. 252 15 11, drama@

drama.si, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) C-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. 300 09 70, www.lgl.si. Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music, design and other forms. It’s responsible for keeping scores of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye out for the musical puppets that come out of the small tower on the roof of the building on the hour. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance.

Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre B-2, Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. 241 17 66, info@opera.si, www. opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence theatre in the city centre that’s used for various classical performances. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

28

Sports Based on abundant anecdotal evidence and various informal surveys, Slovenes rank as some of the most active people in the world. Ask anyone what their plans are for the weekend and you’re almost guaranteed to hear the words cycling, hiking, skiing or tennis depending on the season - although even rain and snow hardly seem to discourage most people from packing up the kids and heading to the mountains or into the countryside for a day of family fun. If you’re similarly inclined, or just feeling guilty by comparison, there are virtually endless opportunities to get out there and work up a sweat.

Badminton, Squash

Millenium J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 585 15 00, www.millenium.btc.si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

Bowling

Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator (BTC Center) J-

1/2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 520 55 80, info@kolosej.si, www.arenalive.si. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Klub300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. 510 39 40, info@bowlingklub300.com, www.bowlingklub300.com. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. In summer bowling is available every day from 17:00.

Extreme Sports

Biosfera B-4, Karunova 6, tel. 280 16 07, info@biosfera. si, www.biosfera.si.

Fitness

Bit Center Hotel F-3, Litijska 57, tel. 548 00 55, www. bit-center.net. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Fit&Fun Center B-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. 239 61 74, info@fit-funcenter.si, www.fit-funcenter.si. Q Open

07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Sokol Group d.o.o. H-3, Koprska 72, tel. 200 27 50, uprava@sokolgroup.com, www.sokolgroup.com.

Konex center G-2, Cesta na Brdo 109, tel. 241 40 00, www. konex-center.si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.

Sokol Tivoli Fitness center A-1, Celovška 25, tel. 300 37 55, sokoltivoli@sokolgroup.com, www.sokolgroup. com. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Golf

Golf klub barje Dunajska 156, tel. 568 70 07, gcbarje@

golf-klub-barje.si, www.golf-klub-barje.si.

Golf Trnovo Wolfova 12, tel. 041 76 64 40, info@ golftrnovo.com, www.golftrnovo.com.

Where to stay Events Slalom Teen Cup Tacen - kayak & canoe youth competition on the Sava river near the village of Tacen 15 August, 10:00 – 13:00, 16 August 10:00 Sava Kayak Fun Cup Sava river at Tacen 19 August

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room the want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

Outdoor Activities

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

02/040 217 000, info@skok-sport.si, www.skok-sport. si. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00-18:00.

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Paintball

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

Slovenian Open Tacen 22, 23 August Sava river at Tacen

SKOK ŠPORT d.o.o. Marinovševa 8, tel. 1 512 44

Kraljev Hrib Kamniška Bistrica 2, 1242 Stahovica, tel.

832 72 50/041 816 477, info@kraljevhrib-sp.si, www. kraljevhrib-sp.si. Located near the cable car at the foot of the Alps in Velika Planina, the ‘King of the Hill’ sports and recreation centre is best known as the foremost promoter of one of Slovenia’s newest pastimes: paintball. Since they opened the country’s first paintball club in 1992, the sport has gone on to build quite a following among Slovenes, who turn out yearround to shoot their friends, family members and co-workers with balls of paint.

Swimming

Atlantis Water Park J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 585 21 00, www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Admission €7,90/6,50.

Recreational Center Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. 431 51 50, www.zavod-tivoli.si. QOpen 06:00 - 11:00; 18:00-23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Outdoor pool open 09:0019:00. Admission €6/4,50.

Tennis

Breskvar Tennis Academy J-1, Tesovnikova 74, tel.

568 38 19, tennis.breskvar@siol.net, www.tenis-klubbreskvar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Gradiant J-1, Pot K Savi 45, tel. 537 30 47, info@gradiant.si, www.gradiant.si. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Grand Hotel Union Business B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel.

308 11 70, fax 308 19 14, hotel.business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PJHAR6U� FLGKDXCW hhhh

Grand Hotel Union Executive B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel.

308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00.

Q 327 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-conditioned rooms from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof windows, cable television and a choice of internet connections. Extras include popularbusiness and conference services, a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms (singles €200, doubles €240, business rooms €250, suites €300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Rooms, furnished with style and ƚĂƐƚĞ͕ Ăī ŽƌĚ ŐƵĞƐƚƐ ƚŚĞ ĞdžƉĞƌŝĞŶĐĞ ŽĨ ĐŽŵƉůĞƚĞ ĐŽŵĨŽƌƚ͘

Over €170

Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. 433 21 55, info@hotel-lev.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Nat ure's, warm embrace

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

COUPON dŚĞ ƐĞůĨͲƐĞƌǀŝĐĞ WŽůŶĂ ƐŬůĞĚĂ ƌĞƐƚĂƵƌĂŶƚ ŚĂƐ ƚŚĞ ĂƉƉĞĂƌĂŶĐĞ ŽĨ Ă ŵĂƌŬĞƚƉůĂĐĞ ǁŝƚŚ ƐƚĂůůƐ͘

ZĞĐĞŝǀĞ Ă ϱ й ĚŝƐĐŽƵŶƚ ŝŶ ŽƵƌ WŽůŶĂ ƐŬůĞĚĂ ƌĞƐƚĂƵƌĂŶƚ ǁŝƚŚ ƚŚŝƐ ĐŽƵƉŽŶ͘ sĂůŝĚ Ɵ ůů ϯϬth ^ĞƉƚĞŵďĞƌ ϮϬϬϵ Hotel and Congress Centre Ljubljana Pot za Brdom 55, Ljubljana, www.hotel.mons.si

August - September 2009

29

Where to stay

30

Mons G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. 470 27 00, fax 470 27

08, info@hotel.mons.si, www.hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms (singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh

€100-170 NEW

Allegro Gornji Trg 6, tel. 059 119 620/041 557 908,

info@allegrohotel.si, www.allegrohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. Just opened in mid-July, when we visited they were still putting the finishing touches on after six months of renovation. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for a restaurant. Definitely a welcome addition to Ljubljana’s hotel scene. Q 12 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150).

PJARBW

Antiq B/C-3, Gornji Trg 3, tel. 421 35 60, fax 421 35 65,

info@antiqhotel.si, www.antiqhotel.si. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €156-172, extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW hhhh

Austria Trend H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. 588 25 00, fax

588 25 99, ljubljana@austria-trend.at, www.austriatrend.at/lju. Two kilometres north of the city centre near the highway, this vast business class hotel that also caters to the better standard of tourist provides high quality rooms in four different categories from good to exceptionally good, plus a range of other excellent services and facilities including wellness centre, top notch conference amenities, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (singles €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225).

POHAUFGKDXW

Best Western Premier Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel.

470 11 00, fax 251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www. hotelslon.com. On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast - served in a large, light and airy dining room - is a buffet affair of the

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room. highest quality: you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wifi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. Q 171 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh

Central B-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. 308 43 00, fax 230 11

81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www.centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286343). PJHAR6FGKDXCW hhhh

City B-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. 239 00 00, fax 239 00 01,

info@cityhotel.si, www.cityhotel.si. With a reception like a studio set for a children’s television programme complete with bright colours and lots of comfortable furniture, the City Hotel provides a pleasing atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and superior rooms with lots of pleasing cream colours and hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free LAN internet in every room, a small library on the ground floor, and bicycle hire for the fitter section of the community.

Good location too, smack bang in the city centre. Q 200 rooms (singles €69- 140, doubles €138-290, suites €373888). PTJHAR6UILGKXW hhh NEW

Kongo Hotel & Casino Ljubljanska 65, Grosuplje, tel.

781 02 00, fax 781 02 50, info@kongo-hc.com, www. kongo-hc.com. The casino that’s themed with a touch of Africa also offers accommodation in standard business-class hotel rooms with elegant furnishings, internet and satellite TV. Along the Ljubljana-Zagreb highway. Free airport or station pickups possible. Q 39 rooms (singles €70, doubles €116134, apartments €150). POHAR6UGKXW hhhh

M hotel H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. 513 70 00, fax 513 70 90,

info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel.si. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). PHAR6ULGKXW hhh

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

32

Where to stay

€70-100

Kavarna Maček Rooms B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. 425 37

91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travellers.

These rooms are along the river and above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern style.

The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples, but is also space for the travelling family. In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary apartment. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 4 rooms (singles €55, doubles €96). PTJA6GBKS

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. 300 25 00, info@hotelpark.si,

www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer, the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well, and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. Q 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments €150-180). PTJHAR6GXW hhh

Under €70

Bit Center J-2, Litijska 57, tel. 548 00 55, fax 548 00 56, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bit-center.net. A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel 10 minutes east of the centre, rooms are basic but clean, coming with en suite bathrooms facilities and cable television in every room.

Budget means budget here, so there are no fancy restaurants or bars, just a snack counter and little else. Sports facilities

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Where to stay

including badminton and squash courts, fitness centre and gym. The ‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides excellent value rooms that sleep up to 10 people with shared bathroom facilities. Q 39 rooms (singles €34,50, doubles €46, triples €47,50, dorm beds €15). Breakfast (€3,50) not included.

AGBKDW h

Medno Hotel Medno 54, Medno, tel. 362 61 00, fax

362 61 16, recepcija@hotel-medno.si, www.hotelmedno.si. Nine kilometres out of Ljubljana on the road towards Kranj, the Medno provides good accommodation in a range of rooms. This good-value hotel also gives the business traveller opportunities to unwind with the massage and Jacuzzi services. Q 93 beds (singles €54-69, doubles €68-88, suites €88-108). PHAR6LGKXW hhh

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. 430 33 70, fax

430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.com, www.stari-tisler.com.

Cheap and cheerful budget accommodation in a charming old building in the city centre. There are six rooms, which you will find at the top of a glorious staircase, and which, while they share bathroom facilities, do come with televisions. The triples are great value. There’s a good breakfast included, which in the summer is served outside in the courtyard, and an internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles €44, triples €66).

PJALGBK

Hostels Ljubljana has a surprising amount of quality hostels, meaning you’ll have no problem finding that elusive combination of an affordable but good place to sleep and meet other travellers. On the outskirts, there’s also a youth hostel inside the Bit Centre Hotel.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

33

34

Where to stay

Alibi M14 C-2, Miklošičeva 14, tel. 232 27 70, fax 251

12 45, info@alibi.si, www.alibi.si. For the ones that like a more modern looking hostel, Alibi M14 offers a very different experience from its sister hostel Alibi Hostel. Right next to Grand Hotel Union, this hostel blends in very well with its executive-type surroundings. It actually looks more like a hotel than a hostel, but with affordable prices. It’s a bit difficult to find since they haven’t been allowed to put up an obvious sign, but look hard enough and you’ll stumble upon it. Q Open 24 hours. 20 rooms (Double Room 23 €, Double Room Ensuite 25 €, dormitory €20). PJAGW

Celica D-2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. 230 97 00, info@

souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have been kept almost as they were, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire.

The hostel’s café serves an excellent value set lunch every day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h

Orka C-2, Kotnikova 25 (3rd floor)/041 44 40 63. White

bunk beds with a slightly clinical feel, wooden floors and all the usual budget limitations of a city-centre hostel, the renovated and enlarged Orka now has rooms with balconies to add to other facilities including free internet access. Tours and trips can also be arranged on request. Find it just southeast of the train station just around the corner from Metelkova. Q 2 rooms (doubles €40, triples €51). R6LGX hh

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. 300 25 00, fax 300 25 18, info@ hotelpark.si, www.hotelpark.si. Located inside the same building as the Park Hotel and offering the same communal facilities, Hostel Park provides a range of decent quality communal rooms for two to four people, some coming with en suite bathroom facilities and some having to share. Q 42 rooms (twin €23-29, quad dorm beds €19-23).JAGKXW

Rooms4Young G-2, Dolomitskega Odreda 90/031 82

17 08. Hidden away in the far-flung western suburbs of the city, this small, three-roomed hostel in a smart white house with a lovely garden provides excellent budget accommodation with shared bathroom and kitchen facilities plus laundry, parking if you need it, and an internet connection. Pick-up from the bus and train stations for new arrivals is also available.

Q 3 rooms (double room beds €19, triple room beds €17).

P6LGW hh

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Vila Veselova A-3, Veselova 14, tel. 059 92 67 21,

desk@v-v.si, www.v-v.si. Owned by the same people who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new hostel in a lovely old villa in the western part of the city centre is aimed at the young travelling crowd who like to relax. Simply furnished with a range of rooms and dormitories, some with and some without en suite facilities and all named after a different colour, extras include nice big balconies and free internet. Q 8 rooms (singles €28, 4-bed dorms €22per bed, 6-bed dorms €20 per bed, 8-bed dorms €17 per bed). JARLGW hh

Zeppelin B-2, Slovenska 47, 2nd floor, tel. 051 637

436, info@zeppelinhostel.com, www.zeppelinhostel. com. Snug inside a famous building of the name Evropa from the XIX century, this friendly and social hostel is just a few steps out of the old town and within walking distance of the train and bus stations. Zeppelin is the perfect reside for the budget traveler, with everything you may need in terms of entertainment and tourist attractions in immediate locality.

Breakfast is included with your stay. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Double room 24.99 €, 4-bed room dorms 21.49€, 6-bed dorms room 19.49 €, 8-bed room dorms 18.49 €.JGW

Bed & Breakfast

Slamič B-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. 433 82 33, info@slamic. si, www.slamic.si. An excellent value bed and breakfast in the heart of the city with the added bonus of a fabulous in-house café. The rooms are spacious and modern, all with their own en suite facilities, large comfortable beds and free LAN internet access. Simple breakfasts are served in the aforementioned café, which also has a delightful terrace. Q 11 rooms (singles €65-95, doubles €80-107, suites for 1-7 people €135-280). JHARLG hhh

Airport hotels

Dvor Jezeršek Zgornji Brnik 63, tel. 4 252 94 00, www.dvor-jezersek.si. Just 2km from Ljubljana Airport (and only 4 kilometres from the Krvavec ski resort) this spacious family-run hotel that’s been in business since 1768 hotel makes for a good night’s sleep before an early departure or after a late arrival. Apart from decent rooms, there are several romantic apartments for hire and there’s both a gostilna (tavern) on site as well as an elegant restaurant. Q 18 rooms (singles €80-90, doubles €120-130).

PTHRUILGKW

www.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Where to stay

36

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening every month.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Da bu da B-3, Šubičeva 1a, tel. 425 30 60, info@ dabuda.si, www.dabuda.si. Opened in 2007 as a modern and multi-leveled Thai restaurant, the overpriced and underwhelming Thai menu soon fell flat with the locals, so the owners overhauled and re-emerged a year later as a “fusion” restaurant. While what they’re “fusing” isn’t quite certain, it seems to involve white rice, slimy noodles, and the faint memory of what Thai food should taste like. Nonetheless, this centrally-located restaurant draws endless crowds of hip young locals for dining and slurping signature syrupy cocktails at the bar. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€4-13).

PJAGBXSW

China Fast Food C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. 031 56 82 78.

Six little tables inside a small restaurant on the ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park opposite the main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals tucking into food cooked in a single wok by a Chinese man visible through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced, fast, and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty good, and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an empty stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4,70-6,80). PJAUGS

Kitajska Zvezda C-4, Hrenova 19, tel. 425 88 24. We’ll need a second visit to establish if it’s a tradition to have the waitress’ toddler grab your leg as you step over him on the way to the bar, but if you don’t mind eating in a Chinese kindergarten this shouldn’t really bother you. The menu of this quirky place not far from the old town features everything you’d expect to see, with no great surprises in store. Average Chinese food in a slightly more than average environment.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-20). PTJAGBS NEW

Sobe Jana Vopolje 29, 4207 Cerklje Na Gornjskem,

tel. 040 216 260, www.turizem-vopovlje.com/sobejana.htm. A conver ted famil y home in the village of Vopovlje, Sobe Jana is a decent option only 3km from Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport in Brnik. The four rooms and three apartments are comfortable if not overly luxurious, and are one of the better values around with the latter starting at only €12 per person. Q 7 rooms (singles €2226, doubles €28-34, triples 35-40, apartments €36-42).

PTA6L

Apartment rental All the benefits of a private apartment without the costs of a hotel, plus you get to shop for your own breakfast too.

Asdom Apartments C-2, Vidovdanska 5, tel. 041 662

928, info.asdom@gmail.com, www.asdom.si. Rents out studio apartments in the centre of Ljubljana for both short and extended stays. All apartments are equipped with wireless internet and cable television. Excellent service, especially if your survival language is English. Q 7 aparments (€55).

PJAW NEW

Tour AS Mala Ulica 8, tel. 434 26 60, fax 434 26

64, info@apar tmaji.si, w w w.apar tmaji.si. Th ese are the people to talk to if you’re interested in renting an apar tment during your stay in Ljubljana. From an office just a few minu tes walk directl y sou th of th e main train and bus stations, th ey operate over 40 uni ts of var ying sizes located all around the ci ty. On their websi te you can find incredibl y detailed descriptions of each apar tment from photos and floor plans

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

NEW

Running Sushi & Wok Jurčkova 223 (Supernova), tel.

to available ameni ties such as microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day trips to just abou t ever y where in Slovenia. Q 40 apar tments (€59-154).

PTJAR6UL

Around Ljubljana

Restaurants, cafes and bars along Petkovškovo Nabrežje

NEW

Ambient Aškerčeva 6a, 1230 Domžale, tel. 08 200 20 00, info@ambienthotel.si, www.ambienthotel.si.

This recently opened hotel in the quiet suburb of Domžale is some 12km north of Ljubljana and offers great access to those wishing to explore Slovenia’s alpine regions. Surrounded by greenery the hotel has a fresh modern appearance and its tastefully designed rooms are fitted with all the modern comforts. Free transportation from the airport can be arranged, as can use of conference facilities, a large picnic area, beach volleyball court and various Thai massages for additional charges. Q 70 rooms (singles €50-80, doubles €70-130, suites €160-240). HA6LBDW hhh

Couchsurfing Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info http://www.couchsurfing. org/mapsurf.html

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Asian

Bangkok Street J-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. 523

31 65, fax 523 31 66, info@bangkokstreet.si, www. bangkokstreet.si. Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive all-you-can-eat buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16).

PTAULGKW

Cesarsko Mesto K-2, Litijska 76, tel. 544 45 00, ce-

sarsko-mesto@siol.net, www.cesarsko-mesto.si. A big, brightly-colored, and certainly kitschy beacon on a stretch of industrial nowhere, this Chinese restaurant keeps its parking lot full as their ever smiling wait staff serves a steady stream of hungry locals. The menu focuses on Mongolian and Tibetan specialties and offers Slovenian beverages as well as Chinese and Tibetan drinks. If you’re passing through the area or staying in the BITCenter nearby, this is a quite good option.

QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€7-20). PAUGBS

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

427 68 88. When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option to get our raw fish fix was certainly welcomed, but we were a bit leery that it would see enough traffic to inspire confidence in the all-important freshness department. But as far as we can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should, there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on separate hot and cold belts and an all Asian staff wait attentively to swoop in and clear emptied plates and lids. Well worth the trip down to Rudnik. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. All you can eat €9.90-11.90. PAL

Shambala B-3/4, Križevniška 12, tel. 426 30 14/031 843 833, info@shambala.si, www.shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €3,50-9,50.

PTJAGBK

Sushimama B-3, Wolfova 12/40 70 20 70, www.sushi-

mama.si. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24). PJARGBXS

August - September 2009

37

Restaurants Thai Inn Pub B-2, Rimska cesta 17. With its tuk tuk at the

entrance, the jungle wallpaper all over the place, adornments and pictures, you’ll get a good taste of what visiting a real restaurant is like in Thailand. Thai Inn Pub foregoes the ultra elegant, westernised take on their food. The result is Thai food that tastes like Thai food. If you’re concerned about having food that’ll leave your mouth on fire, you need not worry. The menu clearly explains to what degree the dish will make you beg for water, from nothing to really, really hot. It’s very refreshing to see an ethnic restaurant that doesn’t dumb down its offering for Westerners, but instead gives you the real thing. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (mains €6). JAGK

Zhong Hua C-2, Trubarjeva 50, tel. 230 16 65. Apart

from the fact that they also sell a range of beds, this bustling little Chinese restaurant close to the river provides the perfect Chinese restaurant experience as you’d expect to find any where in world these days. A charming Chinese family, some of whom speak very good English, are on hand to dish up a range of classic Chinese dishes both spicy and plain and including four vegetarian options. Quite possibly the best full Chinese restaurant experience in the city centre. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (€5-7). PTJA6GBXS

Zlati Most Poljanska 7. Just opened in mid-July, Zlati Most

(or Golden Bridge) is the third Chinese restaurant to stake its claim to a narrow 50m stretch of road a bit east of the central market - and far be it for us to question the wisdom of this, but let’s just say the other two don’t exactly do a roaring trade.

Nevertheless we quite like this place. How can you not when the menu features dishes such as Drunk chicken, Ant climb tree and Flied dragon with phoenix? Throw in cheap Chinese beer and spirits, huge portions and strangely hypnotic Chinese pop music and they have our business. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€3.60-12.30). JNS

Burek Burek is the universal and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried when you’re in the region.

From the Turkish word bur, meaning to twist, burek comes in all manner of shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the addition of lashings of plain yoghurt. Burek can be found ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and speciality places operating out of little more than an open window, especially around the bus station. Variations on the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel, where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania where they eat something not unlike a burek that they call a čeburekai. Enjoy.

Nobel Burek C-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. 232 33 92.

A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2). J6UXS

Slast C-3, Poljanska 7, tel. 114 56 05. There’s noth-

ing quite as disturbing as watching grown men simultaneously smile and slice meat. If you can handle it, these friendly folk with their grins and grubby aprons serve some fine burek as well as the usual extra fast food offerings including pizza, hot dogs and kebabs. Soft drinks too.

QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (€2-4). J6UGXS

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Restaurants Balkan

Čad (Pod Rožnikom) H-2, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel.

251 34 46, www.gp-vic.si/roznik-eng.asp. When you ask locals to name there favourite Serbian restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is the most frequently heard answer. Small, rustic, and surrounded by greenery, this gostilna is situated

by Rožnik hill, near Tivoli Park. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewer all come highly recommended. Easy to combine with a trip to the zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15). PTJA6ILGBX

24

Portal J-2, Zaloška 110, tel. 540 01 66, portalm@

siol.net, www.portal-m.si. Step into this cavernous old gostilna or stay out on the terrace and watch the river flow by at this great restaurant tucked away from the traffic. While they offer pizzas and pastas, the parking lot stays full with people here for real grilled Serbian food, and those options abound. They also have a long list of good Slovenian wines to drink alongside. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (€7-20).

PTAULEGBXS

OPEN

38

HOURS

DRIVE-THRU ONLY

Pri Jovotu E-3, Poljanska 99, tel. 520 30 00, gostilna@

prijovotu.com, www.prijovotu.com. It might not get any more homey than this, this ill-kempt restaurant bares a striking resemblance to grandma’s house replete with bad lawn furniture and a pet parrot sitting in the middle of the dining room. A regular stop for students and laborers, the food, a mix of steaks, pizzas and grilled Serbian meat dishes, comes fast and greasy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€5-9).

TA6ULEGBXS NEW

Rio-Momo Slovenska 28, tel. 031 751 751/425 32

26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA

Sax House B/C-4, Trnovski pristan 4a, tel. 070 23 51

90, info@agencija-smer.si, www.sax.si. The restaurant bills itself as “grill based food” and indeed the pleasant aromas of the grill permeate the air as your approach. The restaurant is a stylish and incredibly simple place, and the food is a mix of grilled meat dishes, as expected, but also quite a wide range of grilled vegetable skewers. A good choice if you’re looking to dine on the quiet side of the river.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€5,80-16,50).

PTJA6UGBXSW

Sofra B/C-1, Dunajska 145, tel. 565 68 00. For a

well-prepared taste of Bosnia without the long train ride, this restaurant offers intimate and classy surroundings and a reasonably priced menu featuring mostly Bosnian grilled, roasted, and sometimes spicy specialties. The vegetarian among you might find something in the burek offerings, and for the adventurous there are a few beef tongue delicacies. There is also a sizeable room of to one side that can be closed off for large private parties. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€4-7).

PAULEGBXS

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

If you’ve just read the entire restaurant section of this guide and you still haven’t been served, stay calm, collect your belongings and pop into somewhere where the food is served piping hot, and straight from metal containers.

Hot Horse A-1, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. 521 14 27, www.hothorse.si. Eating horses may horrify most British visitors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling. Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon 10:00 - 06:00. (€1-3). J6UBXS

Fresco B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. 430 33 30. A basic

Jež C-3, Poljanska 3, tel. 232 52 46. To the left a bar the

Buffet

modern canteen geared towards the time-poor lunchtime office worker crowd, this bright orange restaurant looking not unlike the inside of a train (albeit a rather large one) provides both help-yourself and waiter service and is good value for money if nothing else. Highlights include ready-to-grab meals from the hotplates by the entrance and a slightly better than average salad bar. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (€2-39).

PAGBSW

Restaurant 2000 B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. 476 69 25. A

vast underground filling station for budget-conscious city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. The food isn’t going to win any awards, but it’s more than good enough especially for the price. Find it deep inside the bowels of Maxi Market. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW

Fast food

Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Kongresni Trg 11, tel.

426 93 27. The acclaimed Ljubljana restaurant’s fast food outlet offers such tantalising takeaway options as good value slices of hot gooey pizza, meat, salad, lasagne and cold drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€2-25).PTJAGBS

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

size of a coffin, to the right a fast food outlet bashing out basic fare including sandwiches and pizza. The snackbar, for reasons beyond comprehension, also has a computer with an internet connection for public use. QOpen 05:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 17:00. (€1-3). 6UGBS

Kantina Peperončin J-2, Šmartinska 152b, Citypark, BTC City, tel. 585 22 02, www.peperoncin.si. If you need something quick to satiate your growling stomach after hours of shopping madness, you could do worse than this. Kantina Peperončin is one of the shopping center cafe/snack shops and while it effects little charm it does serve fast and cheap sandwiches, pizza slices, hot dogs, and kebabs. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€1,30-5,90).PTYAULGS

Konkurenca C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. 430

52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus stations.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J

McDonald’s B-2/3, Čopova 14, tel. 426 32 26, www. mcdonalds.si. It’s McHere if you McNeed it. Also inside the train station (open 07:00-23:00), in BTC (open 08:00 - 24:00, Sunday 09:00 - 24:00) with a drive-thru nearby open 24 hours and in several other locations in Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€1-5). PTJNGBSW

August - September 2009

39

Restaurants

40

Paninoteka B-3, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. 425 00 55,

www.paninoteka.si. The first sandwich bar in Ljubljana and by everyone’s account still the best. Using the best ingredients stuffed inside large, delicious pieces of Italian bread, eat in or take out, hot or cold. One of the city’s latest institutions and a highly recommended one it is too. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€1-7).

J6UEGBXSW

Tomato B-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. 252 75 55, fortuna.fortuna@

siol.net, www.tomato.si. Two colourful dining areas with plenty of hard-wearing furniture, on which you’ll find a galaxy of equally bright students tucking into excellent value food including fish and chips, hot sandwiches, pasta and other treats.

Next door to the wacky Yugoslav statues scattered around immediately to the west of it, why not combine the two and experience the best of both worlds. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. (€1,50-2). PTJA6GBXS NEW

Žak Dalmatinova 2. Located under the hulking Ajdovščina

building just off a busy crossroads, this French style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared sandwiches cost a little more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets but are well worth the premium. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. (€1-3.50). JS

French NEW

Le Coq Blanc Gornji Trg 4, tel. 030 353 848, lecoq-

blanc@gmail.com. Occupying a large house in the heart of Old Town, you have a choice of several intimate dining rooms all boasting cosy antique furniture or outdoor seating on both Gornji Trg and in a quiet corner of Levstikov Trg on the opposite side of the building. The food is excellent and the multi-course daily specials are a great value. We also appreciate the small touches like home-made bread, lemon slices in our water and genuinely friendly service. Although it is still fairly new, we’re amazed that this place isn’t nearly as popular as it should be.

Highly recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JAIB

Indian

Namasté B-3, Breg 8, tel. 425 01 59, www.restavracijanamaste.si. Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS

International

Angel A-1, Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. 518 74 54,

Fish

gostilna.krpan@siol.com, www.gostilna-krpan.si. Located along the river in the quiet neighbourhood a couple kilometres east of the city centre, this nicely designed Slovenian fish restaurant has a stunning variety of fresh fish specialities on offer. The menu comprises everything from oysters and squid to scorpionfish and lobster. Naturally, there’s a good selection of wines to make the fish swim. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€4-43). PTA6ULGBXS

www.angel-kaval.si. Located in the big Mercator center on Ljubljanske Brigade, Angel is more of a lunchtime eatery though it does stay open until 11 pm. Along with a varied menu of appetizers, soups, pastas, pizzas and mains, it has a nice new look to it, and also sells its own brand of oils, vinegars and marinated olives. If you need to duck out to Mercator for a spot of grocery shopping, you might just want to then duck in here for a spot of lunch or something more substantial. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

PTAULGW

Operna Klet B-2, Zupančičeva 2, tel. 252 70 03. Tucked

Argentino J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 523 36 30, www.

Gostilna Krpan F-2, Ob Ljubljanici 24, tel. 521 12 20,

away just off the main road and down a flight of steps, those in the know who enjoy fine fish dining are apt to totter down the aforementioned stairway and feast in simple surroundings on an extensive menu including octopus salad, scampi and Dalmatian squid. The décor has a aquatic theme too, and you’ll not hear a lot of English spoken. Recommended for both its unpretentiousness and the quality of the food.

Be warned though, the place can fill to bursting at lunchtime during the week. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sun. (€6-20). PJA6UGB

Taverna Tatjana C-4, Gornji Trg 38, tel. 421 00 87, laura.b@siol.net. Every kind of vaulted ceiling imaginable from brick to plaster to wood inside one of the city’s favourite restaurants. Bedecked in dried flowers and folk-art tablecloths, the speciality of the house is fish, but there are plenty of other choices available including lots of traditional Slovenian grilled meat dishes and one or two vegetarian options. A good choice if you’re in town for a short time and want to keep everybody happy. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€8-50). PTJA6UGBSW

www.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

argentino.si. The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed.

Huge, and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen (it’s actually behind glass, but who cares?), Argentino serves a combination of Argentinean and Slovenian cuisine including several cuts of Argentinean beef and New Zealand lamb, plus a decent menu of seafood and vegetarian options. Other treats in store include peanuts in their shells on every table and an extensive menu of the best Slovenian and Argentinean wine available. The music’s fun too. Highly recommended if only for the bizarre thrill of it all. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€5.20-45).

PTAR6UILGBXS

As B-3, Čopova 5/a, Knafljev prehod, tel. 425 88 22,

www.gostilnaas.si. Exquisite presentation and service mark the legendary As out as one of the most expensive dining experiences in the city. Brimming with antiques and well-behaved waiters, sit amidst opulent detritus and feast from a menu including more fancy dishes than you could eat in a year including baked potatoes with caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and truffles plus a battalion of fabulous desserts.

And if that’s not enough, the wine list includes everything one could possibly need to accompany the rich and varied food.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-31).PJAGB

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Exquisite culinary and wine pleasures for all palates of the world.

Open: Monday-Friday: 12.00 - 18.00, 19.00 - 23.00 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.00 Maxim Restaurant, Trg republike 1, Ljubljana, Slovenia Phone: +386 1 47 66 982, www.klubmaxi.si

42

Restaurants

Restaurants droves every day. Taking the very best of the dining experience from décor to service to of course the food, they’ve come up with a truly inspiring place indeed. Opting for a minimalist approach with lots of dark woods and cool greys, the setting attracts everyone from business professionals to families who come to feast on a regularly changing menu of dishes including many inspired from Italy and the Mediterranean.

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€360). PAULGW NEW

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. 059 712 368, cupi-

terija@gmail.com. Part café, part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original. Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€6-10).

TJAUGBK

Julija B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. 425 64 63. A tasteful Baroque-look interior with lots of gilded mirrors, distressed white furniture and some extraordinary blue and white tiles on the wall at the back, the fine international menu is packed with interesting food including octopus, pasta in many shapes and sizes and an impressive dessert menu.

The wine list is also worth a mention, boasting a range of good value and painfully expensive bottles from home and abroad. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-19).

PTJA6UGBXSW

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. 47 02 700, fax 47 02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons.si. The menu at the flagship restaurant of the Mons Hotel and Congress Centre is a sublime mix of the traditional and the contemporary. Classic dishes are brought to life with modern twists, such as the saddle of lamb served with pears and polenta. The wine list is one of the city’s best, and the forest setting perfect for escaping the city centre heat.

An absolute gem.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16.

PTHULGKW

Bachus Center B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. 241 82

48, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center. com. Subterranean dining opposite the Philharmonia in the heart of the city, eat a wide range of international dishes under vaulted ceilings. As well as changing specials, the menu includes a fixed list of treats including beef with truffles, octopus and a few vegetarian options.

Q Open , Mon 08:00 - 23:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. 18:00 - 06.00- holidays(€7-20).

PJAEGBSW

Café Romeo B-3, Stari Trg 6, tel. 426 90 11, romeo.

plus@siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Red vinyl PVC seating with some very strange lighting indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see. A great place for good value Mexican and fusion food for all the family during lunchtime or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with the great and the good of the city. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00. (€2-8,50).

PJA6UGBXSW

Cubo J-2, Šmartinska 55, tel. 521 15 15, info@cubo-

ljubljana.com, www.cubo-ljubljana.com. Cubo’s difficult location doesn’t stop those foreigners and locals who appreciate good food and atmosphere from turning up here in

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Jurman F-2, Zaloška 151, tel. 051 358 358, pizzeria.

jurman@siol.net, www.jurman-sp.si. Located on the outskirts of town, this popular family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all under the same roof. The logo features a waiter sprinting hands full to someone’s table, and true enough the waiters are hurrying around making sure everyone is seen to quickly whether they are inside or out near the children’s play area on the astroturfed patio. It’s a good budget-conscious option and the food isn’t half-bad either. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).

PTAULGBS

Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. 425 15 18.

Downstairs for vast pizzas served by a mixture of indifferent and pleasant waiters to a mixed clientele sat both inside and out. Upstairs for more of the same, only with the addition of grilled meats and other classic Slovenian dishes.

Now an institution, the terraces get thoroughly clogged with business professionals and tourists alike during the summer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€5-10).

PTJA6UGBSW

Luka Gourmet Café & Restaurant Evropa B-2, Slov-

enska cesta 47, tel. 438 24 24, info@kavarnaeuropa.si, www.kavarnaeuropa.si. Located in one of Ljubljana’s oldest and most historic buildings, Cafe Evropa offers a variety of lunch and dinner specials guaranteed to satisfy any palate, and is neatly divided into two distinct sections, for a formal or informal experience. To the left, reminiscent of a cozy mountain lodge (complete with an open second-floor gallery and antique skis on the walls), diners will enjoy an extensive salad bar and a tasty, inexpensive meal, efficiently served by a staff both charming and gracious. If your tastes are guiding you to something a bit more elegant, stay to the right where you

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

have a larger, but more expensive, a la carte selection, and a more subdued atmosphere. Whichever you decide, don’t let yourself leave without first trying one of the delectable, freshly-made cakes and desserts; your sweet tooth will thank you. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PTJHA6EGBKSW

Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. 425 01 18, info@lunchcafe.net, www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, lunchtime feasts include some truly memorable homemade soups, large and tasty salads and a few restrained yet delicious pasta dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table or simply having to go somewhere else is a common occurrence.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (€3-19). PJA 6UGBXSW Madeira H-1, Litostrojska 52. Inconspicuously located

on the edge of one of the city’s ever-expanding commercial districts, this offspring of the more upscale (and now shuttered) Chez Eric caters mainly to the business lunch crowd, and clearly benefits - in both style and substance - from its lineage. The international fare, which changes weekly, is more or less limited to a daily four-course set menu along with a handful of à la carte dishes. Although the namesake wine is curiously absent from the menu, the place is a decent value if you’re keen on escaping camera-toting tourists and don’t mind the trek.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2-25). PAULGBK

Manna B-4, Eipprova 1a, tel. 283 52 94, info@kuli-

narika-manna.com, www.kulinarika-manna.com. This high-class and expensive restaurant bills itself as heavenly food here on earth, and as soon as you enter the interior positively glitters. The menu features some of the most rarefied ingredients Slovenia has ever seen such as Japanese wagyu beef as well as a full selection of both Slovenian wines and some of the best wines and spirits from around the world. Every detail is just so in this beautiful space and it was thus no surprise when the restaurant recently had the distinction of being visited for lunch by American First Lady Laura Bush., you’ll see the picture commemorating the event as you enter the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€10-30). PTJA6UGBS

Maxim B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. 476 69 80, info@ maxi.si, www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00; 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€40 and more). PJA6LEGBS

Most C-3, Petkovškovo nabrežje 21, tel. 232 81 83,

most@t-2.net, www.restavracija-most.si. As soon as you arrive to this restaurant you’ll notice a framed food quality award next to the door. That gives a hint of what this restaurant has in store for you. It’s fairly obvious that a lot of thought went into the décor of this place. The pictures had wooden frames that had deliberately not been polished.

Underneath them there was beautiful handwriting on the walls. It all gave the place a very rustic and cosy ambiance.

Even the music was soothing. Very romantic. The cutlery hanging from the lamps marred the effect a bit, but that’s really nitpicking. The best part was, of course, the food.

Simply exquisite and very well decorated. It’s great. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJAGK

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. 230 84 80, plato@siol.

net, www.plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below.

The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW

Polna Skleda G-2, Pot Za Brdom, tel. 470 27 00,

www.mons.si. The Polna Skleda restaurant at the Mons hotel and congress centre is a buffet-style place (unique, we think, in Ljubljana) whereby you can take your pick from a vast variety of goodies displayed on an impresive counter in the centre of the dining room. The various offerings and dishes of the day change regularly and give you the opportunity to try out differnet cuisines. For something a bit different or for a casual lunch or dinner it can’t be too highly recommended. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00. €18.

PTHAUGBK

Pri Vitezu B-3/4, Breg 20, tel. 426 60 58. Exquisite

restaurant, widely recognized as one of the city’s best.

Though expensive (and we mean expensive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8-50).

TJA6UGBXS

River House B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 31, tel. 425

40 90, river@siol.net, www.riverhouse.si. Billing itself as a combined music, cocktail and restaurant bar, River House’s international ambience is helped along with some intriguing filigree lamps over the bar, cocktails to die for and freshly squeezed fruit juices. The atmosphere is fast and friendly, and the menu comes packed with everything you could ever wish for from fried egg on toast to truffles.

Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€10-20).

PTJA6UGBS

Skriti Kot B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. 430 22 06, skriti.

kot@siol.net, www.skritikot.com. The name translates to “Hidden Corner”, and this restaurant, which is hidden deep under the SKB building, certainly is. Serving pasta and Slovenian standards to a regular flow of local workers and students, this windowless nook is just the right place for tucking in to a reasonably-priced meal while hiding from your tour group. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-32).

TA6UGBXS

Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. 470 11 00, fax 251 71

64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. Officially one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most soughtafter in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00.

PTJHAULGKW

August - September 2009

43

44

Restaurants

Restaurants Pasta Nona B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. 438 24 24.

Italian

Al Capone J-2, Šmartinska 152b, Citypark, BTC City, tel. 541 00 61, fax 585 22 04, info@teman.si, www. al-capone.si. Located in the food court of City Park, this spaghetti and pizza cafeteria does its best to affect a rustic feel with brick walls and rustic “aged” chairs, but if you’re there for ambience you’ll be sorely disappointed. This should only be considered for the quick and greasy family lunch. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€6-10).

PTAULGW

si, www.allegria.si. A veritable corner of Tuscany in Slovenia, Allegria promises to bring the scent of the Tuscan hills and the atmosphere of the stark landscapes across the Alps - and admirably succeeds. With a menu longer than Alitalia’s creditor list, there’s plenty to choose from, be it delicate ravioli and lasagne dishes, or fragrantly grilled meat or fish.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€2.30-20.20). PAGB

Azur H-2, Cesta Na Brdo 33, tel. 423 24 23, info@piz-

Tartuf C-2, Trubarjeva 5, tel. 431 01 81. Tucked away up

zeria-azur.si, www.pizzeria-azur.si. A bright orange beacon in the middle of nondescript suburbs, walk right in and past the freaky statue (which appears to be a homeless person begging for change) and into this wide open and friendly pizza and risotteria. The menu is full of various types of pizza and while they give their risottos top billling, they actually have more pasta offerings. It is clear from the familiar air that this place is full of regular repeat customers and it is certainly family friendly and even tourist-friendly despite its distance from the center. If you’re headed back from the zoo, this could be a good lunch or dinner stop for you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-12.90). PTAUGB

staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. Like all the restaurants and cafes along the Ljubljanica the focus here is on the outside experience and this restaurant/bar aims to create a sort of Miami vibe in their area along the river; with Latin music blaring on the stereo, a drink list featuring tropical cocktails and cigars, and a staff of attractive waiters. The food here is pricey steakhouse. You can also enjoy light meals, like various salads or sea food and then top them with tasty desserts. They are the only restaurant where serve food till 01:00. From a crisp cocktail before dinner to a full course meal without ever having to leave the comfort of the house. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€5-20). TJA6UEGBXW

Favola B/C-3, Dunajska 129, tel. 566 20 94, bernard.

Union Garden B-2, Miklošičeva 1, Grand Hotel

alino.si. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian restaurant that specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you see upon entering is a tasteful dining area with an indoor tree in the corner that rises up to a skylight. Further back there’s a smaller dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling, and upstairs is a café. The service might not be the friendliest, but at least it’s efficient, and the varied and tasty lunch specials are downright cheap. Definitely worth finding.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (€6-18). PTJA6GBXSW

Union, tel. 308 12 95, www.gh-union.si. Every year from June onwards, the Union Garden - in the shade of century-old chestnut trees - serves up an al fresco offering of international, Mediteranean and traditional Slovene cuisine for lunch or dinner. If you’ve eaten elsewhere, you can simply indulge yourself with a dessert, made by the in-house confectioners. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. (€14-25).

PTJA6UGBXS

Zlata Ribica Cankarjevo Nabrežje 5-7, tel. 241 26 80,

zlata.ribica@ gpl.si, www.zlataribica.si. Located at the foot of Cobblers’ Bridge in one of Old Ljubljana’s older buildings, Zlata Ribica (or the Golden Fish) has a long tradition of serving excellent traditional Slovene and international cuisine in a setting that is hard to beat. For some reason they do seem a bit touchy about their bona fides though, on a recent visit when asked if they had pizza the waiter irritatedly replied that it is a restaurant not a pizzeria - which we assumed meant no. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€6-22). PJAB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

San Martino J-2, BTC City, Mercurius, tel. 585 22

70, fax 585 22 04, info@teman.si, www.sanmartino. si. A shockingly good looking restaurant on the edge of the sprawling BTC Center. The restaurant has a hip and stylish staff, two terraces for outside eating, a large dining room, and a white leather sofa’d room in the middle for relaxing and sipping on coffee or wine. Oh and the food? Italian trattoria pastas and pizzas. If you’re in the mall and absolutely famished, escape the food courts and come directly here for a proper meal. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4,80-15).

PTAUILEGBXW

Allegria B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. 426 74 02, info@allegria.

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. 251 17 49, info@

Scrubbed pine tables and an air of casual sophistication await those looking for one of the finest lunch spots in town. Drop by this magnificent little eatery for big plates of steaming pasta, wonderful sauces, some great salads and, best of all, a dustbin-sized help-yourself barrel of couscous. Tucked up away from the action in the heart of the city-centre business district, this place fills up fast. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€5-10). PTJAGSW

markovic@bid.si, www.favola.si. Favola has a wide range of pasta and risotto dishes as well as fish and meat options, but overall, pizza seems to be the go here. There are over 25 varieties to agonize over and once you’ve made your choice you can then deliberate whether to go large or small. Add in soups and an excellent salad range, plus hot and cold appetizers, and top it all off with a warm and friendly atmosphere made even more so by the big wood-fired pizza oven going non-stop, and you have a great place for pizza and pasta at very reasonable prices. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTAULGBXW

Kavalino C-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. 232 09 90, www.kav-

La Storia C-1, Linhartova 3, tel. 234 45 92, info@lastoria.

si, www.lastoria.si. This large and lovely trattoria sits inside a bustling but decaying old shopping center not far from the center, and caters to a daily horde of office workers and students with its authentic pizza and pasta offerings. While other restaurants serve pasta and Italian dishes as an afterthought, true Italian food is the focus here, and the ample staff will make sure you get yours fast and hot. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10).PTJA6GB

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

a small alleyway, Tartuf offers a couple of sparsely decorated yellow rooms and a summer courtyard to the usual collection of students and local office workers. The menu is far from revolutionary, featuring such well-known dishes as pizza, lasagne, and that well-known Italian favourite, goulash. The dessert pancakes on the other hand can be pretty special, although the service can be a little on the slow and indifferent side of diplomacy. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. (€5-6). TJA6GBS

Mexican

Cantina Mexicana B-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod, tel. 426 93 25, ftdoo@siol.net, www.cantina-mexicanarestaurantes.si. Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most popular courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is positively aglow with bright colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the ceiling and some nice lighting tricks behind the long groundfloor bar. The food is classic Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and appears to be fairly popular. If nothing else, this is one of the quirkiest and silliest places in the city centre and even if you’re not hungry is well worth a visit for a drink or two.

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90).

PTJA6GBSW

Imperio Mexicano J-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. 523 31

65, fax 523 31 66, info@imperio.info, www.imperio.si. Decent and good value if not award winning Tex-Mex food, where our only gripe would be that the cheddar used on the nachos was not the best. Great cocktails, an outsdnaing house white, and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex favourites: the chicken tortillas were particularly good. For big groups shopping in City Park, you can’t do much better. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PTAULGSW

Joe Peña’s B-2, Cankarjeva 6, tel. 421 58 00, bienve-

nido@joepenas.si, www.joepenas.si. A combined cantina and cocktail bar with a fine garden to boot, they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffiness of the place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits you as you open the door.

The food’s pretty good, being the standard Mexican dishes as found throughout the world including fajitas, enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu of vegetarian options to keep everyone happy. One of the best atmospheres in the city that’s guaranteed to please all but the fussiest of patrons. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€3-14). PTJA6GBSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Pizza

Foculus B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. 421 92 95, foculus@

siol.net, www.focuus.com. Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The service can be a little slow at times, but the wait is generally more than worth it. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.708.40). PTJAUGBS

Parma B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. 426 82 22, www.picerija.

net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. (€4-6). TJA6ULGBXSW

Piazza H-2, Parmova 51, tel. 436 31 81. Authentic

pizza in an Italian village square setting, complete with an odd bicycle with a salad bar attached for theft prevention.

Not the cheapest pies in town, but a pizza feeds two hungry souls. Piazza can get very busy, the terrace especially, but you can wait at the bar to be seated if you haven’t booked in advance. If you want to pay by card, apply patience.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-10). PT� JA6ULGBXS

August - September 2009

45

Restaurants

46

Restaurants sphere of influence, Ruska Pravljica does a good first attempt at bringing Russian cuisine to Slovenia. The interior and staff costumes are appropriate, but you can’t help feeling the menu is closer to the Slovenian idea of what Russian food should be like. A few shots of original vodka will do much to keep you focused on what Russians do best. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€4-10).

PTA6ULGBS

Slovenian In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine.

One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin.

Figovec B-2, Gosposvetska 1, tel. 426 44 10, gostilna.

A lot of options NEW

Pizzeria Osmica Nazorjeva 8, tel. 426 58 72. Located

on the narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and salad annex of the longerrunning Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressive-looking menu of twenty salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and stone with an open kitchen. Every time we’re here the service seems to range between leisurely paced to infuriatingly slow, but as far as the food is concerned we’ve yet to disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.70-7.80). JABS

Tramvaj Ekspres Piz zeria A-3, Trg Mladinskih

Delovnih Brigad 10, tel. 041 91 64 07. Two bright red pre-WWI trams from Prague are now parked together in a Ljubljana square for the purpose of providing pizza and hot sandwiches to a clientele made up of mostly poor students. One tram does the cooking whilst the other is packed with individual tables for two. The service is friendly enough though, and for wackiness you’ll not find a more eccentric location in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From 15. July to 18. Avgust is closed. (€1,50-9).

J6UGBS

Trnovski Zvon B-4, Eipprova 17, tel. 283 94 64, www.

pizzerijatrnovskizvon.com. An interesting option if you’re in the area, this local-geared pizza place has a nice intimate room at the front and a larger space out the back. Décor comes courtesy of a few stuffed animals and some interesting bits of art on the walls, whilst the people who come here run the gamut from youngsters out for a bit of a treat to husbands whose wives have run away without leaving anything in the oven. As well as a large list of pizzas in two sizes, the (sadly Slovenian-only) menu also has a few other dishes including fish, pasta and a couple of vegetarian options. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4-8).

PTJA6ULGBXSW

Russian

Ruska Pravljica J-1/2, Kranjčeva 26, tel. 534 50 87, pult@ruska-pravljica.si, www.ruska-pravljica.si. As far from the city centre as Slovenia now is from the Soviet

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

figovec@siol.net, www.figovec.si. White tablecloths, heaps of quality Slovenian wine and a pleasing mix of bits and bobs on the walls including old farming implements, joints of meat and a television blaring out MTV cut this one out from the humdrum mainstream gostilna scene. Popular with both locals and foreigners alike, this really rather pleasing place dishes up above-par nosh such as the ghoulishsounding horseflesh prosciutto and horseflesh beefsteak, alongside such amusing concoctions as ‘yang pig baked in oven’ and mushroom turkey. Joking aside, what this place loses in translation it more than makes up for in the kitchen.

QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (€7-28).

PTJA6UGBXSW

Gostilna Kovač J-1, Pot k Savi 9, tel. 537 12 44, info@

kovac-co.si, www.kovac-co.si. Well out of town near the Tomačevo roundabout, Gostilna Kovač has been serving up Slovenian cuisine with traditional kindness since 1840.

There’s plenty of emphasis on meat and fish. Inside, antiques and wooden beams create a rustic atmosphere, while there’s a lovely porch and terrace for al fresco dining. Very popular with wheeling and dealing business types.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€10-100). PAUBW

Gostilna Lovec A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1,

tel. 426 91 36. One of the more interesting and individual gostilnas in town, Lovec provides a labyrinth of rooms with plenty of brick archways, some really fine old green ceramic stoves, a broken piano on the wall, scores of students of course, and something you don’t see in a gostilna every day - a salad bar. The food’s as good as you’ll get anywhere like this, there are a few vegetarian options, and, for that ultimate gostilna experience with an interesting twist, this one wins hands down. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. (€3-13). JAGBS

Mencigar Nobile D-3, Zarnikova 3, tel. 439 70 40,

info@mencigar-nobile.com, www.mencigar-nobile.com.

Across the road from St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpretentious restaurant specialising in traditional food from the Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas, known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets.

A popular place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Pizzicato C-4, Gornji Trg 33, tel. 251 11 18, www.pizzicato.

never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA

Pr’ potic B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel. 425 43 37, prpotic@siol. net. Looking for lunch in Ljubljana? Want to go somewhere specialising in local dishes? Then you could do much worse than taking advantage of Pr’ Potic’s set lunch menu where you can enjoy a choice of two soups, two mains, salad and desert, all eaten at either one of the outdoor tables or in the cosy red and white interior. The a la carte menu has a range of hot and cold starters, soups, sides such as dumplings and grilled vegetables.

Factor in the wine list, friendly service and the good location on the square at the end of Stari trg and you have an eatery that offers a budget option with the frills still attached. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€11-17). PJA6EGBXSW

Sokol C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 18, tel. 439 68 55, gostilna-

si. A house of traditional Slovenian cuisine in the old town with beautiful and well-restore interior, Pizzicato serves traditional Slovenian standards, pasta made fresh and with care. The staff is exceedingly helpful and tourist-friendly, and devoted to making sure to they have happy guests and repeat visitors. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-9). PTJAGBX

Pri Vodniku H-2, Vodnikova 65a, tel. 505 59 07, www.

privodniku.si. Set in the building where the poet Vodnik was born in 1758, now this pleasant Slovenian restaurant serves a la carte meals as well as several set menus. Each of the menus offers a different overview of local specialities. For something special, take the time to try the 8-course slow food menu accompanied by good wine. For a really relaxed visit, you can stay on after dessert and sleep in one of the guestrooms. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (€10-20). PTA6ULGBXSW

Rio-Momo Slovenska 28, tel. 031 751 751/425 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

sokol@siol.net, www.gostilna-sokol.com. Essential dining for almost everybody passing through as well as living in the city, Sokol is arguably the most famous of all the traditional Slovenian restaurants in Ljubljana, if not all Slovenia. Several different rooms, all decorated in a traditional, rustic manner provide the ultimate fatty meat blow-out such as venison plate, game goulash or veal stew as well as a few safer dishes including karst ham with olive, Ljubljana steak plus limited fish and vegetarian options. The desserts are equally punishing on the waistline, but well worth trying if you can still fit one in after your main course. Look for the cheeky red chef by the entrance or listen for the chain-smoking Americans swapping business stories on the front steps. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTJAUGBXS

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. 430 33 70, www.

stari-tisler.com. Only a short walk from the main train station - in the direction of the moustachioed General Meister atop his trusty steed - Old Tišler’s has been serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms available upstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (€5-20).PTJA6UGBXS

August - September 2009

47

48

CAFÉS

Restaurants Coffee culture is very pronounced in this part of the world, with time standing still a few times a day while people relax and sip their coffee in a café or on a terrace.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Bazilika Shop & Cafe C-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. 041

530 539, darja@bazilika.si. Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is the closest thing you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you’ll feel how you leave the bustle, noise, and gray of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing oriental music and décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Bife Jež C-2, Resljeva 44, tel. 232 17 60. A tiny little cafébar in the middle of nowhere, good for a pick-me-up coffee or something a little stronger if you’re stranded hereabouts. A small outside seating area provides a safe haven for those who find the idea of being stared at by everyone too much to handle. Q Open 05:30 - 22:30. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2 sandwich), (€1 coffee). JBS

Cacao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. 430 17 71.

If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit and ice-cream is around 5€ a serve and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil (tequila, minus the worm).

There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available but if you are planning on going to Rio you might want to bring the babysitter. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

PTJA6UGBSW

Café Antico B-3, Stari Trg 17, tel. 041 76 40 80. A

Špajza B-3, Gornji Trg 28, tel. 425 30 94. An exceedingly

classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, an excellent salad bar and an antique silver cash register in the entrance.

Popular with many people including business professionals, tourists and romantic couples, prices are high but still relatively affordable if you don’t come here every day.

Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7,50-10).

JAGBS

Valvasor B-3, Stari Trg 7, tel. 425 04 55, info@valva-

sor.net, www.valvasor.net. If you are looking for fine dining in the heart of the city, Valvasor may be just the place for you. ‘Elegant’ and ‘tasteful’ are adjectives that could be used to describe both the décor and the menu.

Seafood features heavily in both the appetizers and mains sections though for the completely carnivorous there is also a good range of mouth-watering red meat options. If you find yourself spoilt and confused by choice you could take advantage of the degustation menu and try a little of a lot.

With an extensive wine list selected from all over Slovenia, Valvasor is open for lunch and dinner though it’s definitely best to book for an evening excursion to avoid the disappointment of being politely told there is just no room for you tonight. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€16-24).

PTJAGBXS

www.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Coffee and ice cream time

Parisian feel exudes from every pore of Café Antico. Popular with middle-aged couples out for a balloon or two of quality wine as well as a more younger set of chic young urbanites, the happy proprietor serves up the world’s top 40 cocktails alongside the aforementioned wine and a few well chosen bottles of cold beer, plus there are a few snacks on hand to keep the hunger away including cheese sandwiches and of course croissants. Check out the interesting room for two people. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TJGBSW

Abecedarium B-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. 426 95 14, info@

Café Gaudi Nazorjeva 10. This tiny hole-in-wall around the

NEW

Vodnikov Hram C-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. 234 52 60,

vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikov-hram.si.

Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana.

Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle.QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-50). PTA6ULGSW

Židana Marela H-1, Vodnikova 2, tel. 515 14 60,

JazPaTi@zidanamarela.si, www.zidanamarela.si. A fantastic idea whose time (surprisingly) never came before now, Židana Marela organizes Slovenian Nights at Skriti Kot restaurant where they introduce attendees to a typical Slovene meal, drink,customs, folk music, and dances in a convenient 2.5 hour experience. At the end of the night the whole room should be up on their feet and joining in on the raucous fun.

QOpen 19:30 - 24:00. (€5-15). PJA6UGB

Vegetarian

Vegedrom H-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. 513 26 42, info@

vegedrom.com, www.vegedrom.com. A vegetarian can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable pizzas and side salads in the center of town, but if it is real healthy vegetarian meals you are after then head to the outskirts and try Vegedrom. The restaurant creates vegetarian, organic and vegan meals inspired by Slovenian and Indian cuisine, with daily specials and special lunch sets that include soup, salad, and a sweet. A worthwhile trek for something healthy and delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

abecedarium.si, www.abecedarium.si. Half café-bar, half international restaurant, this lovely 1528 building is believed to be the oldest house in the city. Other claims to its fame and fortune are the fact that some 30 years later the father of Slovenian literature Primož Trubar (1508-1586), who wrote the first book to be printed in Slovenian (Abecedarium), lived under this very roof. The Protestant reformer-author, who also wrote the first complete Slovenian translation of the New Testament, would no doubt be horrified at the changes to the building with its striped blue and white chairs and young, liberal clientele. During the summer the terrace is a nice place to sit and drink. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. (€12-60).

PJAUEGBSW

Bachus Lounge B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. 241 82 42,

info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center.com.

Buzzing pretty much any time of the day, Bachus’ ground-floor lounge area features good-looking clients, good-tasting coffee, a year-round garden for sipping cocktails under the stars, and a whole host of other fancy attractions. A popular Ljubljana A-list classic, handy for both the attached international restaurant or as a pre-club venue for its hugely popular nightlife venue. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-42). PAEG

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

NEW

corner from Hotel Slon looks great if you’re a fan of dark wood and low arched ceilings, but its high uncomfortable tables and chairs and lack light means that it’s not an especially inviting place to sit and enjoy a coffee. And despite the name, if Gaudi wanted to feel at home in Ljubljana he would undoubtedly head to Čupiterija. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Café Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. 230 84 80, plato@

siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish and still relatively new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3).

PTJA6GBXSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com August - September 2009

49

50

cafÉs

CAFÉS Coffe Project C-2, Mali trg 1. Hidden behind the

popular stretch of Trubarjeva, this tiny and ver y new coffee shop has big ambitions. It serves Turkish brewed for the discerning coffee drinkers and in the beer department it has the distinction of offering not only the two ubiquitous and watered-down national beers but also a selection of homemade ones. Ask a local to guide you there and they just might join you in something new.

QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJ6ULEGBXW

Corso Bar B-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 13, tel. 041 623 379,

corso@siol.net. Industrial overtones and a bunch of trendy young things behind the bar, heaps of arty people drinking coffee, wine and beer and the added bonus of outside seating.

Take your pick on an indoor experience with lots of funky metal piping and black pvc furniture or chance your arm under an al fresco umbrella. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

J6UGBS

Čez Cesto C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. 470 47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier.

QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TJAUGS

Čolnarna A-2, Tivoli Park (near the Ribnik, lake),

Tasty cake

Cafetino B-3, Stari Trg 5, tel. 422 29 50. Chaotic on

Saturday afternoons and not much quieter during the week, Cafetino’s split-level design provides ample seating for the city’s caffeine connoisseurs to imbibe on a range of coffees made from freshly ground coffee beans. A small shop at the back sells the beans in question to take away plus a few sweets including packets of delicious English fudge and assorted biscuits. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. TJA6UGBXS

Caffe Ljubljana B-2, Gosposvetska 7, tel. 041 89 03

41/426 32 26. A cute curved café-bar, convenient if you’re staying at the Slamič, with a nice little courtyard out the back and a huge dragon for a door handle. This far from exclusive establishment is a decent enough place for a pick-me-up espresso or something a little stronger amidst a mixed clientele including hip young students and retired Party officials.

QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 28. July to 15. August open from 08:00 to 16:00. (€3,70-4,85).

PTJGBXS

CN7 B-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 7, tel. 252 72 07, cn7@

volja.net, www.cn-7.com. A pleasant enough café on the waterside, nothing too special but full of interesting things and people to look at all the same. The clientele runs the entire range of local folk and tourists from teenagers to geriatrics. The coffee is better than many in the area.

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TNGB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

tel. 251 11 60, for tuna.for tuna@siol.net, w w w. colnarna.com. Once upon a time this old café sold the best homemade cakes and sweets in town in the most beautiful setting around, but it is now 120 years in, and we all know age can make it hard to keep up. These days while the surroundings are still quite lovely, the cakes are not bad and ice creams are delivered in a truck.

Nonetheless, it merits a stop for a cake, a coffee, and a peaceful moment in the park. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

TJ6UGBXS

Grajska Kavarna C-3, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Cas-

tle), tel. 439 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.si. Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s very own café is housed inside a dismal-looking 1980s concrete monstrosity well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice, wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW

Cha (Čajna Hiša) B-3, Stari Trg 3, tel. 252 70 10, cha@

siol.net, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. TJAGBS

KavaČaj Slamič B-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. 433 82 33.

Translating simply as CoffeeTea, the hugely popular café inside the Slamič B&B serves excellent coffee and a wide range of teas as well as cakes and puddings in abundance.

As well as the nice ground floor venue there’s a larger area upstairs and an all-year terrace. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PT� JA6GBSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Kava Bar Kino Komuna B-2, Cankarjeva 1, tel. 241 84 06. A small café inside the cinema of the same name tucked down a little arcade, notable for little except for a huge 1930s 35mm film projector inside a glass case. An interesting diversion for passing film buffs perhaps, but not a lot more.

Q Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun from one hour before the first screening until 22:00. JAG

Kavarna Tromostovje B-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. 430 12

18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW

Kresnička A/B-3, Rimska 23, tel. 251 15 92. A

spacious but quiet corner café popular with students and workers from the nearby university, it features a menu so full of cakes and other lovely sweet things (like hot chocolates with almost any added flavor you could imagine) that you might find yourself studiously checking out the menu. For those who don’t wish to indulge their sweet tooths, there are also great simple breakfast and snack options as well as a wide selection of hot and cold drinks.

QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€1-3).

PTJA6ULGBXSW

Lan B-3, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27, tel. 425 31 15. A basic

student café with a few interesting design features that unfortunately the waitress on duty at the time couldn’t tell us anything about. There’s the most extraordinary moulded green shelves you need to walk through to get in, and some truly inspiring lighting on the ceiling concealed inside large wooden boxes. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 00:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBXSW

Le Petit Café B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. 251

25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive: big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PT� JA6UGBS

Maček B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. 425 37 91, www.macek-

lj.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW

Malina B-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. 041 750 669. Coffee,

cakes, and delicious ice cream. You will not miss this place when walking by: the pink and orange chairs that from the al fresco part of this café can be spotted a mile away. Inside there are four or five small tables, all decked out with very comfortable black armchairs. Very popular with business types who work in the surrounding offices.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. PTJAUGBS

clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mandolat A/B-3, Rimska 17, tel. 421 03 77. A

cheap and cheerful canteen-style café aimed squarely at the student market, Mandolat comes with two individual areas and a pleasing outdoor terrace providing plenty of chances to mingle with the locals. Note that it’s soft drinks only here, many of them dispensed from bizarre-looking red machines with large dials on behind the two bars. The location on one of the city’s most lively student-orientated streets means that if you don’t find exactly what you’re looking for here, you’re bound to find it somewhere nearby.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PJ6NGBXSW

Metropol B-2, Kersnikova 6/040 63 99 01. A distinctly

industrial feel with lots of absurd touches such as a ridiculous flashing robot and a glass-walled smoking room for two, if you’ve got the strength to throw a sleeping student on the floor, prepare yourself for a full-on youthful experience.

A bit out of the way along the same street as Slamič B&B, Metropol is only really recommended for those who enjoy being in the company of boys and girls who are technically still at school. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJAGBSW

Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek C-3, Petkovškovo

Nabrežje 15, tel. 041 620 935. A really pleasant, quiet café by the water, this could be what the person who needs a little time with a book and a decent cup of coffee was looking for.

Populated by a group of people united by their love of interesting hats if not age, the roll-off-the-tongue Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek is for sure one of the city’s top arty, bookish places to meet other like-minded souls. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. (€49). TJA6UGBS

Pri Semaforju B-3, Slovenska 5, tel. 040 893 664.

Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to sit either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all manner of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to leave your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW

Randevu B-3, Mestni Trg 19. Yet another trendy café in

an area already addled with them. This one, however, wins points for its sprawling patio overlooking the river. They serve a mix of hot and cold drinks, sandwiches, and a small array of sweets which you can order if ever one of the dizzy and inattentive waiters comes your way. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.

PYR6GBXW

August - September 2009

51

52

Nightlife

cafÉs Zvezda - House of Pastries features its own boutique workshop offering: • cakes, pies, croissants • ice cream • warm and cold beverages • cookies and bite sized chocolate treats • sandwiches • a gi� shop programme with different types of teas and candies 100% fruit ice cream and rice milk ice cream (cholesterol free, lactose-free, saccharose-free, gluten-free and contains no animal products).

You can visit Zvezda at three different locations in Ljubljana: in city centre on Wolfova 14 and Slovenska cesta 34 (Hotel Slon) or in BTC Shopping centre, Hala 12, Šmartinska 152.

Museum), tel. 300 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze.

Too pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00.

PTJA6UGBXSW

Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. 425

07 12. Teddy bears, Cuban flags, accordions, cakes, icecream and lots of friendly people of all ages, some of them wearing funny hats. One long thin room and a larger space out the back for coffee and sweet treats hold a fascinating array of colourful characters. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€1-5).

TJ6GBXS

STA Travel Cafe B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. 1 439 16 90,

fax 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.com. There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the clinical sounding name.

Set on a big terrace with a good view and lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons. When all that virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you can sate them with your choice from a wide range of sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you can look at where you’ve been, where you’re going or where you want to head off to next, and every second Wednesday you can attend the travel presentations and wash all the free information down with beer, wine, coffee, tea or a soft drink. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJ6UGBXW

www.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Bi-Ko-Fe B-3, Židovska Steza 2, tel. 425 93 93. A sloppy,

Personal current favourites include tiny little Conestoga for live music, Čupiterija for light eats and cocktails, and Ultra for shaking our thang. There are tons of other places of course, so browse our thorough Ljubljana nightlife listings at your leisure.

www.cafe-galerija.com. Right next door to Cupiterija you’ll find Café Galerija. As the name suggests, this café doubles as a gallery space. Along with the artworks and outdoor seating, the café boasts a cool blue interior bar at the back, where patrons can sit back and enjoy teas and coffees, snacks and a range of alcoholic drinks - - -pretty much something for everyone of a legal drinking age. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJA6EGBXW

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Drinks and desserts that do not contain any products of animal origin.

SEM Kavarna D-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic

Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. 040 177

775, info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. While this aptly named establishment makes no attempt to belie the fact that it’s a club first and foremost, don’t let that dissuade you from taking the glass elevator up to the roof during daylight hours. Even as an afterthought the café still has the best views in the city. Ljubljana’s almost too picturesque castle is perched on the leafy hilltop only a few hundred metres away, and more steeples than you can (or at least would want to) count dot the sky above the old town. A perfect place to linger on a sunny afternoon. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAEGBKW

Trubadur C-2, Trubarjeva 31, tel. 434 35 30. Gig-

gly waitresses and hear t-stopping cakes provide the interesting diversions inside this otherwise ordinary café along one of the city’s more famous trendy streets. The coffee’s not too bad either, and if it’s some peace and quiet you’re after for 20 minutes this might be just the place for you. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4-5).

TJ6UGBS

Zvezda B-2, Wolfova 14 & Slovenska 34, tel. 421 90

90, kavarna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies.

Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Slovenska 34 open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2,803). PTJAUGBSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Bars

messy kind of bar full of art students lounging around on the windowsills or sitting at the extraordinary plastic orange bar.

Much talked about and extremely good fun to look at, our last visit entailed standing at the aforementioned orange counter and being ignored by everyone until the barmaid appeared to ignore us as well. A resounding victory for form over content indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PJUGBXSW

Cafe Galerija B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. 040 245 780,

Casablanca B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. 01 426 30 28.

Handkerchiefs for lampshades, a vaulted brick ceiling and not a sign of Humphrey Bogart anywhere. Not unlike the couple from Kent who called their child Depressed Cupboard Cheesecake, the owner wasn’t really thinking when he came up with the moniker here. After all’s said and done however, during the summer at least the place fills to bursting with a diverse crowd of happy-go-lucky locals and tourists. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. POJ6GBCW

Cezar Bar B-2, Slovenska 56, tel. 231 08 37, info@

cezar.si. Its expansive outdoor seating area dominates Bavarski Dvor, the city’s de facto financial centre. With the Ljubljana Stock Exchange right next door and various banks, brokerage firms and insurance companies occupying the surrounding office buildings, a steady stream of white collar types flock here throughout the day in order to tend to their seemingly insatiable appetite for caffeine and nicotine.

QOpen 06:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PJB

Aperitiv Bar B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. 308 19 96. A pleasant, small and simple café-bar on the ground floor of the Grand Hotel Union Executive with a well-stocked bar and a few nice Art Nouveau touches. A decent place for business travellers to start the evening, meet informally with colleagues or to simply network with other like-minded executive types. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PJ6UG

Compañeros Café B-2, Slovenska 51. Head down a too-

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. 47 02 700, fax 47

Conestoga C-2, Trubarjeva 43, conestoga@email.it.

02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons.si. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must. The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

PHLGKW

Bar Gaj H-1, Dunajska 103, tel./fax 534 11 30. The

name - which is Slovene for ‘grove’ and pronounced ‘guy’ - is a slightly exaggerated reference to the modest row of trees shading the large outdoor seating area. Inside, a small ground-level bar with stained-glass windows, brass railing and dark green everything else, does a commendable job of concealing the colourfully funky lounge downstairs, which is popular with students from the university across the street. If you fancy striking up a conversation, a good icebreaker could be the bar’s past reputation as a hangout for some of the city’s more nefarious characters. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00.

PAULGBW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

long bright orange hallway and dive bar, that clearly caters to a youthful crowd looking to drink cheap and fast while listening to the daily DJ set. The day we went the bar was plastered floor to ceiling with dirty handwritten signs advertising drink deals. If you’re under 25, or just act like you are, this is the place for you. QOpen , Mon, Tue 07:30 - 00:30, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 02:30, Sat 10:00 - 02:30.

Closed Sun. No admission. JAGBXS Doesn’t look all that much from the outside: only a barrel or two gives away the fact that this a drinking den, and nothing that this is in fact a live music venue par excellence. The tiniest stage in Ljubljana (Europe even) hosts live acts most evenings playing blues, jazz and rock. Take home a souvenir t-shirt, a bargain €9. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JRUEGB NEW

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. 059 712 368, cupi-

terija@gmail.com. This place may be located on Mestni Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you: it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase (if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the free nightly tapas. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS

August - September 2009

53

54

nightlife

nightlife Na Balanci H-1, Vodnikova 155, tel. 500 76 71, www.

francinabalanci.com. If you find yourself pacing through the halls of the expansive BTC Center wondering where the old Slovenia of yesteryear got buried, you might just find it here far away from the center and hidden from the street. Come down the small alleyway and make a left at the tennis courts and find a beautiful wooden high-ceilinged bar chocked full of early twentieth century memorabilia from old- fashhioned bicycles to big black and white family television sets. There is so much to soak in while you soak up your drinks from the full bar, you might have to make more than one visit. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PTA6ULEGBXSW

Opera Bar B-2, Cankarjeva 12, tel. 421 03 90, info@

opera-bar.com, www.opera-bar.com. A bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s more wellheeled residents, including those who like to attend the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar.

It brims with good-looking types drinking coffee during the day and something a little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership explains the huge Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

PJHAEGBXS Summer night in Ljubljana

Fétiche B-3, Stari Trg 25/040 70 03 70, www.fetiche.

si. A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess. Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young boys with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture and the obligatory huge mirror ball. There’s outside seating too, and, rather oddly, a small boutique selling expensive designer fashion upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA6GBXW

Kamera Klub C-2, Kolodvorska 6, tel. 432 50 29,

kamera@amis.net. A particularly interesting local bar for local people containing some of the best and worst examples of interior design in the city. There’s sport on the television, men with berets and large moustaches, and, strangely, a personal computer with internet access in case nobody wants to talk to you. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00.

PJAUGW

Kolovrateater C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 14, tel. 620 98 82,

kolovrateater@edda.si. Kolovrateater trades from 09:00 to 01:00 but unless you want a quiet coffee it is really more of a night-time place, especially on the weekends when it shakes off the café mantle and dons that of a club. And, it’s not just any old club, planned regular events include live music, stand-up comedy and literary readings, with no cover charge for these eclectic entertainments. If after all that culture you should feel a little hungry don’t be alarmed by the fact that the only snacks listed on the menu are bubble-gum and croissants - sandwiches are available too. And if a quiet daytime drink is all you are after, the coffee’s pretty good here. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6EGBXW

Lar’s Bar C-3, Gornji Trg 23. Sleek lines and more than a

mod towards Scandinavian design at this sublime little bar on a quiet central side street. Owned and run by the eponymous Lars, expect a wide range of Scandinavian cocktails, many of which are mixed to perfection on the biggest vodka cocktail list we’ve seen this side of Oslo. Offbeat nights in Ljubljana should both begin and end here. QOpen 15:00. - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJGB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Playa J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 040 57 35 72, bar@

playa.si. This fancy bar inside of BTC center gained notoriety for being co-owned by one of Slovenia’s better pop stars, Jan Plestenjak. They serve hot and cold drinks from a full bar as well as a tasty selection of pricey cocktails. They also organize regular music nights from national and international acts. The bar is nice, but as cars steadily pass through the maze like parking area it makes it hard to relax and party at the shopping mall. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. No admission. PAULGBXSW

Pr’ Skelet B-3, Ključavničarska 5, tel. 252 77 99, www.

prskelet.com. Look for the skeleton hanging in a cage on the corner of the street, dip up the alley and down the skeletonriddled staircase, over the skeleton lying under the glass floor and enter what may well be the strangest cocktail bar of them all. As sharp-witted readers may have already guessed, the theme here is a skeletal one. They’re everywhere - some still wearing their clothes, and even a dominatrix skeleton complete with a whip and naughty little skeleton. Not content with this, expect to find a bony handle on your cup should you order a coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6GBX

Pri zelenem zajcu C-4, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemzajcu.

si. This is a good place to head to if you want to find a small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly rotating disco lights and trance type music give the Rabbit a bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor tables. Recommend for students or those who once were students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an evening, or for those who’ve never drunk absinthe and would like to give it a go. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. JA6EGBXW

Rollbar J-2, Hala 18 (BTC City), tel. 585 25 70, info@

indoor-karting.com, www.indoor-karting.com. Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120kph, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65kph. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AUEGBXW

long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events.

QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri 06:00 - 02:00, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW

Roxly C-2, Mala 5, tel. 041 399 599, info@roxly.si,

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. 251 17 49, info@

www.roxly.si. It’s all in the timing so they say. Spread over two floors, the Roxly provides a dual function by offering meals by day and music by night. The coffee bar and restaurant is popular during the daylight hours, with a good wine and cocktail list, a menu made up of local and international dishes and a view of the castle from the outdoor dining area. By night, DJs and live music, mainly of the blues and rock varieties, keep this place rolling along until three in the morning, providing a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous dance music found in most late-night venues. So whether you want a coffee with a view, a long lunch, or cocktails and rock and roll, the Roxly can meet your needs - - -just make sure you get your times right. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18).

PJAEGBXSW

Salon C-2, Trubarjeva 23, tel. 439 87 64, www.salon.si.

Suave sophistication as seen through the adolescent eyes of the MTV generation, complete with all the usual shallow trappings such as zebra skin sofas and fluffy red walls. From the mirror balls to the small individual chill-out rooms, the visual notes are all in the right order, and the cocktail menu is as good as any. However, as so often happens in the East, there’s more to the book of life than just its cover. This place is all about being seen and what you’re seen wearing.

Don’t expect a Hollywood welcome if you turn up looking anything other than an A-list movie star. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00.

PALEGBSW

Slon Lounge B-2, Slovenska 34 (Best Western Slon),

tel. 470 11 55, www.hotelslon.com. If Ljubljana were a village, this would be the village pub. This legendary bar in the legendary hotel of the same name is the kind of place where people arrange to meet, and where they can sink back in comfortable armchairs, chatting while they knock back a devilishly good coffee or cocktail in an atmosphere that’s at once business-like and relaxed. An almost circular affair with huge windows overlooking the busy street outside, this is most people’s first choice for informal get togethers.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. (€7-15). PT� JAUGBKXSW

Sputnik H-2/3, Tržaška 128, tel. 423 23 72, fax 256 67

95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www.sputnik.si. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautifullooking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long,

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. The ground floor space of this combined cocktail bar and steak house restaurant has opted for something along the lines of a Cuban vibe, with plenty of Cuban cocktails on the menu to accompany the Cuban music and cigars also on offer. Upstairs find a small restaurant with lots of classic 60s-style red lampshades turning out a reasonable menu of appetizers, steaks, fresh salads and seafood dishes. For those who can’t be bothered to move too far from where they eat to where they end up drinking, Stara Mačka may well prove too tempting to resist. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€4-15).

PJA6UGBKXSW

Tombstone Saloon B-4, Eipprova 19, tel. 283 14 13.

Complete with authentic cowboy saloon-type swinging doors to get unceremoniously thrown through after you’ve drunk the bar dry and insulted the sheriff, this ridiculously silly, woodenclad, cowboy-theme bar comes with the usual prerequisite wagon wheels on the ceiling and cowboy hats on the walls, plus classic rock howling out of the CD player and sport on the television vying for attention at the same time. Definitely one to put on your pub-crawl list if that’s what you’ve come here to do. TJA6ULEGBXSW

Zlata Ladjica B-3, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. 241 06 96, info@

zltim.si, www.zlataladjica.si. Lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging, sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selection is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments, and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€7-20). PTJA6UEGBKXSW

Žmauc A-3, Rimska 21, tel. 251 03 24. Ask any tuned-in

local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.

QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.

PJA6GB

August - September 2009

55

nightlife

56

Billiards NEW

7edma Lukna Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala A), tel. 585

14 89. On the basement level in BTC’s Hala A shopping centre, this place does a commendable job of hiding its existence from the general public - not a difficult feat when your main entrance is at the bottom of a loading ramp. Despite their modern location they have the good sense to turn the lights down low enough to maintain a certain level of seediness that should be obligatory for any self-respecting pool hall. Perhaps most importantly the tables are nice and prices low: €5-7 per hour for groups and only €2 for loners who prefer to play by themselves. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 6XW NEW

Biljardna Hiša Parmova 25, tel. 236 20 12, qb@siol.

net, www.biljardna-hisa.com. Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glass-enclosed self-service smoking area - although unfortunately they have yet to cram any pool tables in there. You can expect at least a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get your name on the list.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.

nightlife Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. 518

56 46, casino.lev@siol.net, www.casinolev.com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name. Q Open 24hrs. No admission. PO� JHAULEG

Grand Casino Ljubljana H-1, Dunajska 154, tel.

436 13 69, casino@casino-lj.si, www.casino-lj.si.

Every temptation under the sun for those with money to burn, next door to the Austria Trend hotel. Slot machines and playing tables with live croupiers. Q Open 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. Open 24hrs. Admission €5.

POJAULEGW

Clubs

Bachus B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. 241 82 44, info@

bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center.com. One of the longest running nightclubs in the centre of Ljubljana, this place accordingly bursts with people whenever there’s something good going on. Running the gamut of themed nights appealing to everyone from students to those looking for the best DJs in the city, this is currently the liveliest place in town for everyone to let their hair down and have some good old-fashioned fun. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJAEG

Club OZ2 J-2, Smartinska 152, tel. 040 282 282, fax

The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter.

040 333 999, info@cluboz.si, www.cluboz.si/si/. A club nestled deep between the domains of Ljubljana’s overwhelming large shopping malls is suited for those that take pleasure in any kind of music and a night out with friends. If it’s Balkan turbo folk or electronic music you can find OZ2 packed and full of fun on a Friday or Saturday night. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. PALG

Casino Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje, tel.

Emonska klet B-3, Plečnikov Trg 1, tel. 421 93 00,

Casinos

781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.kongo-hc.com.

An African-themed gaming hall with electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once inside, soft drinks and food are on the house, though there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ self-service buffet) on site too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Admission €10 (includes gambling tickets). POAULEGBKXW

emonska.klet@siol.net, www.emonskaklet.com. As well as being a large subterranean restaurant-bar in the heart of the city centre serving traditional Slovenian food, this is also where scores of young and not-so-young people head for during the evenings and weekends when it doubles as a club venue. As well as rolling around on the floor drunk, other things to do under the large vaulted brick ceilings are listen to the occasional DJ or even a band or two, get stuck in a conversation with expats and dance like a complete idiot.

Fun! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Admission €1.

PJAEG

InBox J-3, Jurčkova 224, tel. 600 50 86/040 47 79 61, info@inbox-club.si, www.inbox-club.si. This massive warehouse-style venue on the southern outskirts of town has been packing in Slovene clubbers, under one guise or another, for the better part of a decade. It generally attracts a younger crowd that always comes to party, and is where you’re most likely to to find big-name international DJs in Slovenia. From time to time it also hosts pop or rock acts and has random theme nights, such as the reoccurring Hawaii Party, where tropical attire is not only encouraged but obligatory. QOpen , Wed, Thu 21.00 - 4.00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: Free to €26 depending on the event (check their website for details).

PALEG

www.inyourpocket.com Let’s get ready fo party

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. 1 510 39 40, fax 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300.com, www.bowlingklub300. com. Celebrating a birthday? Graduating? Reunion? Organizing a business meeting or get together? If it’s a good time you need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the week. Order a ‘zirafa’ for the group (a 3 litre long tube of bubbling local beer which allows you to pour your own draught) and take on your friends or colleagues at one of the bowling alleys, or at a game of pool. El Toro, a Mexican restaurant attached to the complex, fries up a spicy dish for just under a tener and the cocktails are only a fiver. The VIP room is especially suited for business meetings who want to mix work with a bit of fun.

QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PALG Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. 438 02 61, mique@

klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. If you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Club K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Sunday is the pink party night, the only party night in town for the gay community.

Q Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00. Mon closed. Admission €7. PJAG

Klub SubSub A-1, Celovška 54a, klub@subsub.si, www.

subsub.si. The oldest club in Ljubljana doesn’t really get going until about 1 am but when it does it doesn’t let up until 5 or 6 in the morning. Specialising in ‘good music’, with underground DJs and bands, SubSub attracts a mix of locals and tourists who want to hear the full gamut of alternative dance tracks from hip hop to funk to reggae. The cover charge depends on who is spinning or playing and once through the doors you’ll be part of a hip crowd ranging in age from their teens to their late 30’s. Check out the website for a glimpse at what’s upcoming and a taste test of the sounds you’re likely to hear.

QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (€3-16). PJALEGBXW

KMŠ A-3, Tržaška 2, tel. 425 74 80, info@klubkms.si,

www.klubkms.si. If you’re young and a student (or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends and the occasional weekday.

Drink to your heart’s content as the booze is by far the cheapest in town. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed in August. Admission €0,5. PJA6EGW

Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. 232 16 74, info@

orto-bar.com, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 21:00.

PALEGBX

TeatroKlub A-1, Slovenska 25, teatro@teatro1.com,

www.teatro1.com. Big, loud and brash, Teatro sprawls itself over two levels. Upstairs the colour scheme is black and red with a metal industrial feel whilst downstairs the look is cool icy blue. But whichever part you are in, the music is pumping and the punters are looking and looking to be looked at. There’s nowhere really to chill out except on the upstairs smoking terrace but in a place where you can buy your drink by the glass or the full bottle, and where by the early hours people are likely to be up dancing on the tables, chilling out can wait. Flashy and frenetic Teatro is a little but loud taste of Belgrade slap-bang in Ljubljana.

QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (€5 for men).

PJAULEGBXW

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. 40 17 77 75,

info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. Located on the top floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this recently-opened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, and is looking to compete internationally later this summer.

Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday, running the gamut from live jazz and bossa nova to the latest house cuts. If you’re not in the mood for going out, at least try to stop by during the day for a coffee on the terrace and some great views of the castle and old town. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 05:00. Admission: Free before 23:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW

Tramontana B-2, Tomšičeva 2, tel. 031 64 47 63, info@ tramontana.info, www.tramontana.info. The club where all the pretty people go to dance to stomping Serbian music.

Dress to impress, switch off your brain, tank up on beer and you’ll be partying like there’s no end soon enough. See the website concert announcements. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:0005:00. PJAEG

Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. 031 56 07 13, info@ultra-club.

si, www.ultra-club.si. If you find yourself painfully unprepared at the salsa night a few doors day, you can slink down to this fancy disco for something a little more free-formed. The bar features DJs and various theme nights from house to hip hop and the full bar also offers an assortment of cocktails whenever you take a break from the throbbing crowd. QOpen 20.00 - 03.00.

Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €5. PJAG

August - September 2009

57

58

nightlife

nightlife

Dancing

Jazz clubs

a second glance during the day, this long, thin little shopping-centre café transforms itself during the evening into something charming and unique. Home to the city’s fans of swing, salsa, old Yugoslavian rock music and more besides, evenings here include singles nights for the over-30s and plenty of opportunities to dance in couples just like they did in the old days. For more information about this scene, check out the interesting website at www.vintage.si. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. No admission.

PJAEGBX

jazzclub.gajo@siol.net, www.jazzclubgajo.com. Roll over Beethoven - this is perhaps Ljubljana’s most famous Jazz venue, with regular jam sessions (Monday nights), concerts by local and international artists and other events. besides listening to music, it’s a great place for a few beers too. During the summer months the club moves outdoors to a garden opposite the main entrance to the National Gallery on Tomšičeva. The programme can be found on the club’s English-language website. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAEGS

Piano Bar B-2, Nazorjeva 6, tel. 244 23 11. Hardly worth

Turbo Folk Born in Serbia in the early 1990s and having close cultural links with the Bulgarian Chalga, Turkish Arabesk and Greek Laïka scenes, Turbo Folk mixes traditional Balkan folk music with the westernised club music coming out of the region at the time. The term was first used by the Montenegrin-born Serbian singer-songwriter Rambo Amadeus, essentially as a joke, but has now become synonymous with the genre.

Growing up via the illegal radio stations of Belgrade and the cult cable television station Pink TV, what was originally a Serbian child has gone on to have children of its own throughout the Balkans. Fusing together a bizarre mix of predominantly working-class sentimentality, nationalism and hedonism, Turbo Folk is alive and well and living in the suburbs of Ljubljana. Dress codes for men are fairly liberal, but the classic Turbo Folk female wears revealing dresses, dances in a provocative way, and is usually found inside a pair of long, high-heeled white boots. Completely off the tourist radar, those wishing to know more about the subculture before venturing along to a venue might like to ask the advice of a local before doing so.

En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. 514 11 26, www.

enpub.si. The true sounds of the suburbs echo around the walls of this extraordinary little place practically non-stop.

Leave your gun in the car, clear security and the metal detector, and you’re free to indulge your wildest wishes.

Every night is different, from hopelessly sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties featuring the classic Turbo Folk girls. Refreshment features everything from bottles of ice-cold local beer to cocktails to ice cream, and they even do sandwiches and coffee for party animals who’ve moved on to other places that stay open even longer and come back again early in the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub simply has to be experienced to be believed. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Thu 06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PTA6ULGBXW

Klub 12 G-1, Prušnikova 95/041 67 85 77, info@

klub-12.com, www.klub-12.com. Turbo Folk’s classic Ljubljana after-party venue is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t see a single client until around 04:00, but that’s all part of the fun really. After the other venues have closed their doors the deal is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its strange red lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and arrows on the walls and excruciatingly loud music and carry on with the party. This is hedonism at its very best, to the point that many of the true hardcore followers of the faith scrabble out of here blurry eyed in the morning and start all over again. Unmisable for those who know and love how to party. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 05:00. PALEGX

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

} ê ê ê ê ê êµ} ´±ê ê ±ê ês ê ê ê ê ê êz ê ­ê~ ê ê ꩪªê ê ê êz ê ê ê ê ê ê êz ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ­ê

Gajo Jazz Club B-2, Beethovnova 8, tel. 425 32 06,

Mons Jazz Club G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. 470 27

00, fax 470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons. si. One of the city’s top jazz venues. Every month or so the Mons hotel hosts top quality jazz featuring some of Europe’s finest performers. If you live in town or are a regular visitor, buy the season ticket” valid for all concerts over the year. Q PAULGW

Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. 283 14 57. This is what

happens when an unruly youth inherits his great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spattered nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus once referred to as black classical music. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.

JA6LEGBD

Pubs

Cutty Sark B-3, Knafljev Prehod 1, tel. 425 14 77. One of

the most popular bars in the city and frequented by all manner of locals and expats, Cutty Sark provides two dark bars and a summer terrace, childish art on the walls, model ships and the world’s biggest chewing gum machine. Featuring a good selection of local and international beer, find it bursting with interesting specimens most evenings. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UEGBXSW

Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. 426 62 93, www.

guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard in the heart of the student district. Draught beers include Guinness plus Kilkenny and that old English 80s favourite, Woodpecker cider. Friendly and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub-crawl list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.

PJA6UGBX

Parlament Pub B-2, Šubičeva 1, tel. 251 32 43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, nor for that matter who it’s trying to attract, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students, also serves big fat sandwiches to soak up all that beer and/or coffee you’re quite possibly going to drink in here. If you find a tourist anywhere within these four walls, it’s almost certainly going to be you. Very local and interesting. QOpen 06:00 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW

slovenia.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

~ ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ­ y ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ­ ~ ê ®êê À ê¡¢­ªª¾¢£­ªªê ±êz ꡧ­ªª¾¢£­ªªê { ­®êªª£¨¦ê¡ê¤£¡ê¥ªê¡¥ t ê ê ê ­ ­

êêêêêêêêl ê~ ê ê ê ®ê ê ê ê êz ê ê ê p ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ê ®êìê{ ê ê êz ê êìê~ ê ê ê ìê{ ê ê ê ê êìêj ê ê ê ­

Patrick’s Irish Pub C-2, Prečna 6, tel. 230 17 68.

Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the classic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7).

PTJA6EGSW

Rugby Pub & Lounge B-3, Židovska Steza 6, tel. 426

40 62. Three floors of testosterone-filled entertainment for the lads, featuring rugby paraphernalia nailed wherever it can fit, lots of sports on large television screens, table football, Guinness and Pilsner Urquell on tap and the usual selection of young (and not-so-young) gentlemen with their encyclopaedic heads full of useless sporting facts and figures. Not to everyone’s taste for sure, but proof if ever it was needed that Ljubljana’s a serious European city up there with the best of them. QOpen 08:00 - 24:30, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

PJHAUGBXSW

William’s Pub C-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. 434 38 53. Lots of

international flags and good things to drink inside what comes about as close as you’re going to get here to a classic London pub. Frequented by a mostly 20-something crowd, its proximity to the large television studios at the end of the street also means this place entertains the occasional passing Slovenian celebrity. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00; 19:00-01:00. Closed Sun. J6GBX

Wine bars Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the centuries in the country’s three wine growing regions producing a vast selection of excellent quality wines, predicate wines and sparkling wines. You can encounter all pleasures at any of the traditional gostilnas or wine cellars found in almost every street in Ljubljana. To make your choice easier try wines such as Teran, Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from the coastal region. Cvicek, a Slovene wine with a light taste and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Ranina.

Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. 251 12 57, guinnesspub@siol.net, www.dvornibar.net/. A large L-shaped adventure specialising in wine, particularly local wine, as well as functioning as more normal café at the same time.

Highlights include a swanky, jazzy area at one end for the

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

more wine-orientated patrons plus at the other end a place to enjoy a beer and a sandwich in slightly less sophisticated surroundings. A good place, and a particular favourite with the kids thanks in part to the huge play area that also puts on the occasional children’s events and entertainments.

Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15).

PTJHA6UEGBKXSW

Enoteca B-2, Nazorjeva 12, tel. 425 71 06, info@

enoteka.si, www.enoteka.si. One of Slovenia’s greatest hidden treasures has been its many quality wines, which are only now getting the attention they’ve deserved. While the international wine world slowly uncovers each one, region by region, you can get yourself a crash course by heading to this basement bar. The wonderful owner Sašo single-handedly runs the place and will gladly educate you on the vino while serving local prosciutto and cheeses alongside. In the hot summer days, this bar has the added bonus of being naturally cool. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAGS

Maximal B-3, Breg 2, tel. 422 00 33, galerijabreg2@

siol.net. A combined café, gallery and bar full of serious-looking people staring into their laptops and some interesting contemporary art on the walls. The barman considered both himself and his place of work far too important to give us a couple of minutes for a chat (this when the place was practically empty), so the only information we can give you is that it looks nice in here, and that if you’re wearing the wrong hat you might well be treated like a war criminal. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJAULGSW

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. 425 54 48, movia@siol. net, www.movia.si. The Slovenian Movia vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can remember, and this, their little showcase wine bar in the old town, is a fine place to come and try some of their excellent products. Found slightly hidden away inside a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and even serves a selection of food especially prepared to compliment the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX

Wine Cellars of Slovenia (Vinske Kleti Slovenija)

C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. 431 50 15, vinskekletislovenije@ siol.net, www.vks.si. The oldest and largest wine shop in the country naturally has a classy restaurant attached where discerning diners may sample some, or all, of the 80 wines on the menu. This is a place where the choice of good Slovenian dishes is based on the wine, rather than the other way round.

Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. (€6-20). PALGBKX

August - September 2009

59

60

Adult entertainment Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

Personal current favourites include tiny little Conestoga for live music, Čupiterija for light eats and cocktails, and Ultra for shaking our thang. There are tons of other places of course, so browse our thorough Ljubljana nightlife listings at your leisure.

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. 232 16 74. On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease, but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus here with private dances available at your table or in one of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission €16.

PJAG

Hard Core Cafe G-3, Dolgi most 4, tel. 041 716 612,

info@hardcorecafe.si, www.hardcorecafe.si. With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe environment for

Gay & Lesbian

groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is free.

Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere.QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.

Closed Sun. PJAG

Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. 470 11 48, ecarte@

siol.net. The most centrally-located adult entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered here, when the women are not dancing they are available for some personal interaction.

QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PYJAEGBXSW

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC HALA

18), tel. 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www. latino-nightclub.com. A strip club in a shopping centre/ industrial estate some distance from the city centre. How appealing is that? The usual selection of bored girls from a variety of countries will pester you to buy them expensive drinks while you watch other girls in their underwear perform perfunctory pole dancing routines.QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.

PLG

Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com, www.

tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of drinks and services.

QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. No admission. PALG

Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian movement in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and since then has maintained an active GLBT community with many well-organised groups promoting gay rights and culture. This year marks the official 25th anniversary of the movement in Slovenia, and has already seen some important events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre back in April and an especially active Pride week earlier this summer. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana a gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright violence are not unheard of, including a rather well-publicised attack that occurred during a literary event only a few months ago.

Since this is our inaugural gay and lesbian section we’ve tried to include the widest variety of listings possible, but look forward to expanding our coverage in future issues.

Additionally, more info can always be found on our website, where your comments are also appreciated.

Café Open Hrenova 19, tel. 041 391 371, info@open.

si, www.open.si. Some places try a little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but this coffee shop isn’t one of them.

A gay and lesbian owned café near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy, and there’s usually good music drifting out of the speakers above. From time to time it hosts cultural events including music and literature evenings. Check their website (Slovene only) for details of upcoming events.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.

Gymnisivm Sauna Pohorskega Bataljona 34, tel. 534

24 85, gymnasium@volja.net, www.klub-libero.si. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring road, Gymnasivm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a converted house in a mixed residential and industrial area. In addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6, 8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place, and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules can be found in English on their website. Summer working hours are from 17:00-23:00.

QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

Klub K4 Kersnikova 4, fax 438 03 01. Every Sunday, and

some Saturdays, this popular gay-friendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate personality, Roža Klub - which is also an independent political organisation and the driving force behind the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival and Pride Week. See our full review of K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section. Q Open Tue& Sun from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed. Closed during July and August.

Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Film Festival Kolodvor-

ska 13, www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/fglf/. Originally launched in 1984, it holds the distinction of being the oldest gay and lesbian film festival in all of Europe. It’s held annually the first week of December, and films are screened from all over the world. This year’s 25th anniversary event promises to be the largest ever. The deadline for submissions is 1 September.

Out in Slovenia Kašeljska 121, tel. 041 562 375, info@

outinslovenija.com, www.outinslovenija.com. Formerly an independent group founded in 2000, it is now serves as something of the sports wing of a larger organisation (DIH or the Association for the Integration of Homosexuality). They organise sports and recreation activities several times per week, which regularly include bowling, badminton, volleyball and swimming.

Membership is not necessary in order to participate, although members do get discounts. Their website is in both Slovene and English and includes a calendar of upcoming events.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Pride Parade opposite parliament

Anja Koletnik

Robert Mapplethorpe Exhibition Prešernova 24,

tel. 241 54 18, info@ng-slo.si, www.ng-slo.si. This large exhibition of work by the acclaimed American photographer continues until 15 August at both the National Gallery of Slovenia and the TR3 Gallery on Trg Republike. This exhibition begins with his earliest portraits of friends and collaborators in the 1970’s and includes six general groups of images: Self Portraits, Faces, Females, Flesh & Fetish, Flowers and Sculptures as selected by Jill Silverman van Coenegrachts.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €5/3.

Sauna Zlati Klub Celovška 25, tel. 431 51 55, info@

zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. The Gold Club is part of the sports and recreation complex at the north end of Tivoli Park and the largest sauna in Ljubljana. Their facilities include several different types of saunas, a swimming pool, whirlpool and fitness centre, and a wide selection of massages is also available. While it’s not explicitly gay-friendly, it is popular with gay men to varying degrees depending upon whom you ask. Admission is between €10-15.50 for up to three hours, and €2 for each additional hour. Q Mon-Thu, Sun & Holidays 10:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00-23:00. Tuesdays are women only. Closes at 20:00 during the summer, except on Fridays.

Slovenia for Gay Travellers Tel. 051 877 245, sloveniafor-

gaytravelers@yahoo.com, www.sloveniaforgaytravelers. com. As the name suggests, these guys specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and accommodation for visitors in Slovenia.

Their English language website is immensely helpful and a good place to start if you’re interested in planning a trip or just finding out a bit more about gay culture in the country. A room in Ljubljana’s only gay owned and operated guest house (SOMI Rooms) can be booked directly from the website, and they have also put together a comprehensive gay guide to all of Slovenia - although outside of the capital the pickings are rather slim.

Q Cultural Centre Kulturni Center Q Masarykova 24 (Metelkova),

tel. 430 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail.com, www. kulturnicenterq.org. Officially opened on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances, exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also host parties every Friday night from around 20:00 till late.

August - September 2009

61

62

what to see Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-thepast burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Bridges

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) B-3, . Another

Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, others simply holding stone balls in the air.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) B-3, . Perhaps Ljubljana’s

most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.

Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) C-3, Grajs-

ka Planota 1, tel. 232 99 94, info@ljubljanafestival.si, www. ljubljanafestival.si/en/ljubljana_ castle. Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries.

Undergoing extensive albeit slow renovation work, the current main points of interest for the visitor are both located inside the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of special glasses and a headset for an English translation, showing an interesting and informative history of the castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th-century wall paintings and not a lot more. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, souvenir shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet Museum. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the furnicular next to the Puppet Theatre.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

what tosee see what to Buildings

Highlights

century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.

Q Guided tours €2.

Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan)

Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) B-3, Mestni Trg 1. The 15th

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) B-2, Štefanova 1. Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933.

The rooftop café sadly closed long ago.

Cemeteries

Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) J-1, Med

Hmeljniki 2, tel. 420 17 00, info@zale.si, w w w. zale.si. Built on the site of a much earlier cemeter y attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched B. Jakše & S. Jeršič en tran ce compl ete wi th stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.

QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Churches As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian art. The big three must-see churches are Cathedral of St. Nicholas (Stolna cerkev sv. Nikolaja), the Ursuline Church (Ursulinska cerkev) and the Church of St. James (Sentjakobska cerkev).

Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) C-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. 231

06 84. With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history of the diocese of the city.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

B-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. 242 93 00. Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink bir thday cake. Par t of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later D.Silpa and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Mestni Trg (Town Square)B-3, www.360cities.

net/image/sg-slovenijaljubljana-the-town-hall.

Th e cen tre of m e di eval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.

Prešernov Trg B-3. Formally a meeting place for several

roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most impor tant landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for con cer ts and even ts during the summer. The charming li t tle public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the now sadly closed Centromerkur department store.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Tivoli Park A-1/2. Ti voli is where the people of

Ljubljana wh o d on’t leave the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some fi ve square kil om etres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally two streets west of the city centre - is so packed wi th Mansion-LTB-archive go o d thin gs to s e e an d do tha t i t’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion; see page ??), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) Kopitarjeva Ulica.

Sin c e i t op en e d in 1901, Zmajski Most has b een locked in a fierce competition wi th the castle an d t h e c on spi cuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in Ljubljana. At an y gi ven m om en t during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequentl y at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon himself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvements but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.

August - September 2009

63

64

what to see

what to see

Tourist information

Ljubljana Card

L jub lja na Touri st In f or m a ti o n C e n tr e (Turistični informacijski center) C-3, Adamič-

The Ljubljana Card offers reductions of up to 35% on admission fees, taxi rides, shop prices, car rental and other expenses. The card is valid for 72 hours and costs €12.52. Find it for sale at all tourist information centres and at various hotels, businesses and shops, or order it at www.ljubljanacard.com.

Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. 306 12 15, fax 306 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.

Q Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday Closed)

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)

C-3, Krekov trg 10, tel. 306 45 75, fax 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si.

Slovenia’s national tourism office. Maps, brochures and general information about travel throughout the country. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed June-September 08:00 - 21:00.

Evangelical Church (Evangeličanska Cerkev) B-2,

Gosposvetska 9, tel. 252 72 80, evang.cerkev.sl@siol. net, www.evang-cerkev.si. Completed in 1852, this fairly unremarkable church represents much that is classic German (or, to be exact, Austrian) austerity. The simple, single-towered magnolia façade hides a basic interior, most of it made from wood, with a few interesting flourishes. The main organ dates from 1878, and the painting on the main altar is the work of a virtually unknown Austrian by the name of Künnel.

Holy Trinity Church (Cerkev svete trojice) B-3,

Slovenska 21, tel. 252 48 64. Constructed to a design by Carlo Marinuzzi between 1718 and 1726 from a commission by local merchant Jakob Schell von Schellenburg, and wi th all the usual additions over the centuries, this imposing Baroque marvel dominates the area it’s located in not least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and part D.Silpa monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained, its main outstanding feature being a Francesco Robba altar, carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik.

Or thodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) A-2,

Prešernova, tel. 252 40 02. Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00.

slovenia.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Around Ljubljana

Synagogue (Sinagoga) A-3, Tržaška 2. Inside the headquarters of the Jewish Community of Slovenia, the small synagogue was the last synagogue to open in a European capital city and dates from 2003. The city has no rabbi; the chief Rabbi for Slovenia is Mr Ariel Haddad, who is based in Trieste, Italy.

Monuments Old Ljubljana is the city’s historical part of town and practically a monument in itself. Fountains, the town hall, some restaurants and local designer shops are located in old buildings that are very well preserved. The Triple Bridge “Tromostovje” is one of Ljubljana’s trademarks designed

by Joze Plecnik. “Zmajski most “ or the Dragon Bridge is another main bridge in Ljubljana, guarded by four detailed dragon statues, which became the symbol of the city. But the most prominent of all, the medieval Ljubljana Castle was built on a prehistoric site on top of a hill, which dominates the cityscape. You can go up by a funicular railway for €2-3.

France Prešeren B-3. Slovenia’s national poet France

Franc Habe

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) Jamska 30,

tel. 700 01 00, fax 700 01 30, info@turizem-kras. si, www.turizem-kras.si. The largest cave in Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 kilometres of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot.

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 17th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.

Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites

Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base.

and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can sometimes - though not always - be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave.

Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.

You will be well and truly told off if you do.

To get to Postojna, take any train or bus from Ljubljana heading for the coast, and jump off at Postojna. Q August & September: daily at 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00 , 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00 (Aug only). Adults €19, Children €12, Students €16. Organised groups €10-16.

Velika Planina Tel. 832 72 58/51 34 14 06, info@

velikaplanina.si, www.velikaplanina.si/Home. Rising 1666 metres into the Julian Alps, the Velika Planina nature park is only a short drive north of Ljubljana and makes a great day trip for outdoor enthusiasts. While the rolling hills are criss-crossed with hundreds of kilometres of scenic hiking trails and mountain cycling paths, the most unique attraction has to be a traditional dairy herdsmen’s settlement that is fully-functioning and open to visitors from June to September. A cable car will bear the burden of transporting you up the mountain, and there’s even a handful of traditional dining and accommodation options once your there.

Puppet Theatre Clock C-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries back inside with Krpan in persuit - a scene taken from the puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting children since 1992.

Robbov Vodnjak (Robba Fountain) B-3, Mestni

Trg. One of the most famous landmarks in th e ci t y, this lovely 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

65

66

what to see two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3,50.

Hiša Eksperimentov (House of Experiments) C-2,

Trubarjeva 39, tel. 300 68 88, info@h-e.si, www.h-e.si.

Based on similar wacky, fun and educational places around the globe, the extraordinary House of Experiments features two rooms of purpose-built experiments for the ultimate hands-on experience. Visitors are free to wander around as they wish, engaging with anything that takes their fancy, whether it’s a giant bubble maker, a room full of mirrors or a machine that plays music according to your weight. They also provide what they call Adventures, namely small performances that aim to show different scientific principles, with enticing names like the Centre of Gravitology, Eggology etc.

Q Open sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Groups can book special visits outside these days too.

International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni Grafični Likovni Center) A-2, Pod Turnom 3, tel. 241 38

An inappropriate photo-op waiting to happen

Museums & Galleries Learn about Slovenia’s history and culture by visiting a variety of museums the city has to offer. A perfect activity for a rainy day.

Brewer y Museum (Pivovar ski Muzej) B-1,

Pivovarniška 2, tel. 471 73 40, pivovarski.muzej@pivounion.si, www.pivo-union.si. The Union Brewery has been providing quality beer to the masses for almost 150 years. The brewery’s museum, inside the same building that they make the stuff in the attic of the company’s former malt house, provides an intriguing insight into the history and development of beermaking in Slovenia with the aid of all manner of exhibits from life-size recreations to some of the beautiful old machinery that helped launch a thousand drunken nights. Visits need to be booked in advance, and include a tour of the current brewery, the screening of a short film, and of course the chance to sample some of the products. Q Open 08:00-13:00 on every first Tuesday of the month. Admission free.

Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine) A-1, Celovška 23, tel. 300 96 10, uprava@ muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si.

If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence in 1991.

Using a combination of wellMatthew Armstrong presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

00, lili.sturm@mglc-lj.si, www.mglc-lj.si. Located inside the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Mansion, this must-see attraction for anyone with even a passing interesting in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000 artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and including the work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts.There is also a gallery with exihitions and contemporary art, open from Wednesday to Sunday 11:00-18:00.Q Open from Monday to Friday (exc. hollidays) 09:00-14:00. Admission €3,40/1,70.

National Gallery (Narodna Galerija) B-2, Prešernova

24, tel. 241 54 18, info@ ng-slo.si, www.ng-slo.si. Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery LTB-archive features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissanceperiod Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3,50.

National Museum (Nar odni Muzej) A-2/3,

Prešernova 20, tel. 241 44 00, info@nms.si, www. narmuz-lj.si. Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2,50.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

68

BLED

what to see Tours Boat Tours (Izlet z ladjo) B-3, Ribji Trg pier, tel.

306 12 15. Organised by the people at the Tourist Information Centre, this is an ideal way to increase your knowledge of the city whilst messing about on the water at the same time. Boats leave from just south of the Triple Bridge at the so-called Ribji Trg pier on the Old Town side of the water and take a leisurely cruise up and down the Ljubljanica, passing under all the main bridges and sights. Q 6.4 until 11.10.2009 guided 12:00-16:00 daily Unguided 10:00, 11:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00 daily. Romantic evening boat rides 21:00 daily (15€). Guided tours in English and Slovenian €10/5. Unguided tours €8/4.

Digital Tour Guide C-3, tel. 306 12 15, www.visitlju-

bljana.si/en/tours_and_excursions/city_tours/special_experience_tours/77753/detail.html. Let your headseat tour guides Ben and Mandy take you on a two-hour trip past Ljubljana’s highlights. Or switch to their German friends Anna and Thomas, or the Italian duo Paulo and Oriana. With the mp4 digital tour guide player and map in hand, you’ll have explanations about the city’s history and sights, and can see pictures too. Rent the player at TIC (AdamičLundrovo 2) and STIC (Krekov trg 10). Q Player rental (5 hours) and map €10 (ID and €10 deposit required).

Ljubljana Night & Day Tel. 051 893 805, lju-

bljanabynight@gmail.com. Let pretty English speaking guides take you and your mates on an insider’s tour of Ljubljana’s best bars and clubs. Catering to groups of 5-20 people, pick any Friday or Saturday night for this experience, or go for daylight activities such as the adrenaline park, paintball, karting and excursions.

Medieval Mint B-3, Prešernov trg, tel. 41 826

340. We present you the Medieval Mint, located at the Prešeren square in the heart of Ljubljana. Grab the exclusive opportunity to make your personal lucky coin with the motive of the Ljubljana castle and Slovenia.

Welcome! Q From 1.May till 30.September

Tourist Train (Turistični Vlakec) B-3, Stritarjeva. Spare yourself the slog up the hill by taking the turist train ride up to the castle. Q Departs regularly between 10:00 - 18:00. Return ticket €2-3.

Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej) A-

3, Prešernova 20, tel. 241 09 40, uprava@pms-lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Attached to Ljubljana’s National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy D. Wedam blues away or to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina.

The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2,50.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

By train

Plečnik House (Arhitekturni Muzej, Plečnikova zbirka) B-4, Karunova 4, tel. 280 16 00, pz@aml.si, www.

aml.si. The Slovenian visionary architect Jože Plečnik lived in this house from 1921 until his death in 1957, making this brilliant monument to the great man and his work poignant for both its immediate connection with him as well as being the building in which he did most of his work, much of it on the actual building itself. Organised into both a living recreation of how and where Plečnik lived and a fascinating insight into LTB-archive his often revolutionary ideas, exhibits include recreations of everything from his kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and countless examples of original drawings and models. The museum can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Q Monday and Friday 10:00- 15:00 (for appointed groups only, groups must be arranged five workdays in advance)Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday 10:00 - 18:00 , Saturday 09:99- 15:00, Sundays and holidays closed.There are only guided visits on the hour. Up to 7 visitors at a time is allowed. Last tour is one hour before closing time. Admission €4/2.

Tobacco Museum (Tobačni Muzej) A-3, Tobačna

5, tel. 477 73 44, tobacna@tobacna.si, www.tobacna. si. The small and intriguing Tobacco Museum traces the origins of the deadly weed in Europe from the 16th century onwards. Exhibits include information about the history of the city’s tobacco factory, which opened in 1871 and in which building the museum is now housed, various machines for the production of cigarettes and a hauntingly lifelike display of two 19th-century women rolling the factory’s renowned Ljubljana Virginia cigars. The factory remains an important part of Slovenian history not least because it was here that the country’s women’s emancipation and rights were born. At its peak, the factory employed some 1,000 workers and was the third largest company in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Painfully difficult to find, look for the 1971 socialist-realist statue of a female tobacco worker and you’ll find the entrance behind her and to the right. The museum publishes a small booklet in English, which is well worth picking up. Q Open every 1st Wed, 3rd Thu of the month 10:00-18:00.

Parks & Gardens

Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) H-3, Ižanska 15,

tel. 427 12 80, botanicni.vrt@siol.net, www.botanicnivrt.si. Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species of native and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15 people are possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days in advance. Q Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00. Admission free.

Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) G/H-2, Večna Pot

70, tel. 244 21 88, info@zoo.si, www.zoo.si. A large complex with a good variety of native and foreign animals.

An excellent day out for the kids, and educative for parents too. Only a 20 minute walk from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23. Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00-23:00. Closes one hour earlier in September.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission: €6/4.50/3.55/1 for adults/students/pre-schoolers/pets, free for children under 2.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

69

Bled has two train stations, but unfortunately neither is located in the centre of town. Over 20 trains a day from Ljubljana call at Lesce-Bled station which is on the main line but is several kilometres away, meaning you will either have a lengthy hike or short bus ride into town. The other station is Bled-Jezero a couple kilometres to the east, which sees up to five trains a day from the capital, however you have to transfer at Jesenice which can lead to a total journey time of almost 3 hours. Check out Slovenia Railways’ incredibly user-friendly website for a complete schedule and prices.

By car

Take the A2 highway northwest out of the city and follow the signs for Kranj. Bled is well signposted once you’re out in the countryside. Journey time is around 40 minuntes and it may get very crowded on Sundays in season at the end of highway.

Where to stay A stroll along the lake is obligatory

Arriving in Bled As little as an hour away from the capital tucked up close to the Austrian border, getting to Bled by train (via Lexce Bled station), bus or car is a relatively painless experience.

By Plane

Jože Pučnik Airport is located approximately half way between Ljubljana and Bled, and you can expect to pay around €45 for a taxi into town. Buses are considerably cheaper (€5.40, up to 19 connections on weekdays, but virtually none on weekends) although you have to transfer in Kranj. There are also up to six direct shuttles per day (€13). You can see the full schedules on the airport’s website.

By bus

Buses leave regularly from the main bus station in Ljubljana and take about 80 minutes to make the journey. Close to the town centre at the northeastern tip of the lake, Bled’s dinky little bus station (avtobusno postajališče) doesn’t offer much in the way of excitement beyond a kiosk outside selling chocolate, soft drinks and cigarettes.

Inside is a combined Alpetour and ticket office. Toilets are in the same building and are free to use. The small waiting room has several luggage lockers against one wall, which we were reliably informed by the lady selling tickets were not for public use. To get the centre, walk south along Svobode until you hit the water. Good free maps are available from the Jelovica hotel, visible from the bus station.

Bled Tourist Office Follow the yellow footprints and be greeted by an aboveaverage collection of information, maps, guidebooks, Bled T-shirts and helpful, friendly staff. An excellent place to drop by for topping up on the latest information, there’s also a computer providing free internet access and a superb view of the lake.

Bled Tourist Office Svobode 10, tel. 574 11 22, tdbled@telemach.net, www.bled.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Cream of the Crop

Grand Hotel Toplice D-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. 579

10 00, ghtoplice@hotelibled.com, www.hotel-toplice. si. Complete with its legendary thermal swimming pool that provides more than enough of a reason to stay here anyway, Toplice’s rather stark exterior betrays wealth of comfort and style inside its walls to make you want to stay here even more. The rooms and suites are all well designed, some of them exceedingly elegant, and all coming with en suite bathrooms, cable television, minibars and internet access. The lakeside location is arguably the best in Bled, with further attractions including three restaurants plus two bars, as well as excellent wellness and conference facilities. Q 87 rooms (single €140-180, double €158220, suit €252-600). PHARUFLGKDXC hhhhh

Upmarket

Best Western Hotel Kompas D-3, Cankarjeva 2,

tel. 578 21 00, info.kompas@kompas-lovec.eu, www. kompashotel.com. A distinctive Alpine-feel hotel with a big sloping roof, as the hotel owners say themselves, the place is within easy walking distance of the town centre yet provides a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere at the same time. Over 100 well appointed rooms and suites with either a park or lake view come complete with all the trimmings including cable television, minibar and internet connection. Other perks include a decent restaurant, relaxing bar, indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi and excellent conference facilities for the discerning business traveller.

Q 95 rooms (single €123-137, double €135-155, suite €200-240). PTHA6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Park Hotel Bled D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. 579

18 00, hotelpark@hotelibled.com. A huge waterside hotel from the golden age of Yugoslavia, with splendid balconies, nicely appointed rooms all coming with en suite facilities, an indoor heated pool and a definite emphasis on wellness and fitness in general. All rooms overlooking the lake come with air conditioning, plus there’s a nice choice of bars and restaurants. The hotel is famous for its kremšnita cream cakes, which it boasts it has now made over eight million of. Q 217 rooms (single €125-145, double €150170, suit €230-250). ARUFLGKDXCW hhhh

August - September 2009

70

bled

bled Mid-Range

Hostels

vgs-bled.si, www.hotelastoria-bled.com. Hotel Astoria’s exterior is decidedly of the bygone socialist era, but the interior has recently been renewed to bring it up to today’s basic standards for resort stay. The location is the key here, nearby you can take the foothpaths up to the castle and enjoy the views of the lake. Dinner is available at their restaurant, The Castle Bled, which is staffed by students from their nearby culinary school. Q 48 rooms (singles €69, doubles €109). PTJHAULEGBSW hhh

574 52 51, www.youth-hostel-bledec.si. This place has the benefit of a bar which you don’t get at most youth hostels. All the rooms here have an en suite bathroom and accommodate between 3-4 people per room. It’s situated in a quiet part of town, but within walking distance to the castle, the lake and all other necessities a backpacker may need. The hostel offers breakfast for guests, use of the internet, a laundry service, rent-a-bike and a variety of tours and activities can be booked at reception. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 13 rooms €18-26. ARULGBK

Astoria D-2, Prešernova 44, tel. 579 44 13, astoria@

Garni Penzion Pletna C-4, Cesta Svobode 37, tel.

457 43 70/041 393 899, fax 574 37 02, pletna@ bled.net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/sobe-pletna.

A welcoming family-owned establishment in the small lakeside village of Milno (only a mile away from the centre of Bled) provides an enjoyable stay full of activities at your very doorstep. Directly in front of the Pension, you will find a perfect spot for swimming out into the pristine lake on a summer’s day or you can opt to hire a boat, also called a ‘Pletna’ at the wharf to the lake’s little islet for just €10-15. In addition, it’s hard to miss the Pension’s etno shop, which sells distinctive Slovenian arts and crafts. Q singles €40, doubles €65, triples €85. TJA6LW hhh

Lectar Inn Linhartov Trg 2, tel. 537 48 00, fax 537

Ribno Izletniška 44, tel. 578 31 00, fax 578 32 00,

info@hotel-ribno.si, www.hotel-ribno.si. Ribno is a stylish, up-market hotel in an unbeatable location directly by the Sava River with pristine rooms that cater for both families and business travelers with in-room internet connections.

The surroundings are quiet and restful with tennis courts, a volleyball pitch and facilities for sport fishing and in the domains of the hotel you can experience the modern comfort of a wellness centre, a cosmetic parlour, an elegant restaurant and the hotel’s very own nightclub, Marilyn Monroe. A shuttle service is available to and from the centre of Bled. Q 61 rooms (singles €82-92, doubles 114-128, suites €134-164).

PTHAUGBKDW hhhh

Villa Prešeren D-2, Veslaška promenada 14, tel. 575

25 10, fax 575 25 19, vilaperseren@sportinaresorts. si, www.vilapreseren.si. Not being quite in the city centre comes with its advantages. This villa offers peace and quiet, fresh air, lake views and green surroundings with exquisite, post-modern rooms decorated with black and pink fancy wall paper, huge sofas and pillows that make you feel as though you’ve entered a lounge bar or something of the sort. The baths are an utter treat with a bubble massage mechanism that gives a good rubdown while you bathe in style. The terrace and on-site restaurant are absolutely stunning just steps away from the lake’s banks. A refreshing drink, morning cappuccino or an evening meal is an absolute pleasure amongst the beauty of the surroundings and the service is first-class. Q singles €99-112. doubles €136-154, suites €160-214). PJLGBW

bled.inyourpocket.com Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Youth Hostel Bledec C-2, Grajska 17, tel. 574 52 50, fax

Where to eat

Budget

48 04, info@lectar.com, w w w.lectar.com. In the heart of the historical centre of Radovljica, the Lectar Inn provides a sleeping experience set deep in the past.

Run for centuries by a local Slovenian family, who strive to retain the pure essence of Slovenian traditions and culture can be met face to face within the four walls of the Lectar Inn. If you opt for a room, one won’t be disappointed in its medieval and homely furnishings and accessories. You will notice that each bedroom is signposted (the signs are made from gingerbread!) by those that have resided within them centuries ago. The ‘Lekarnar’ room (Doctor’s room) is a perfect reside for couples and honeymoon makers. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. Penzion Lectar open every day from 09:00-22:00. Restaurant and Muzej Lectar open every day from 12:00-22:00, Tuesday closed. July and August open every day. 9 double rooms €70 with Breakfast. Restaurant €7-13. TAUGKW hhhh

Traveller’s Haven D-2, Riklijeva 1, tel. 041 396 545,

travellers-haven@t-2.net, www.travellers-haven.com.

This lovely 20th century house turned youth-hostel is perfect for the backpacker or budget traveller seeking a cheap bunk-bed and a location that is close to the town, the lake and a supermarket. Guests can make use of the common room, kitchen, an internet-connected computer and a mashing machine. Q 6 rooms.

Union E-2, Ljubljanska 9, tel. 578 01 50, info@

union-bled.com, www.union-bled.com. A smattering of basic apartments and suites for up to six people at the top of the hill, just a five-minute walk from the lake.

Part of a complex that also includes a restaurant and bar, this excellent value accommodation option may not be pandering to the executive class of traveller, but you get what you pay for in this world. Q 3 rooms (singles €29-40, d ou bl e s €52-66). A 6 I F L G K W hhhh

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

71

Chilli D-2, Svobode 9, tel./fax 574 30 27. Just like the owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make our customers happy’.

This restaurant looks like it originally wanted to sell Mexican food and then realized that it wouldn’t make everyone happy like that, so then decided to offer more. But that’s exactly what’s so special about it. Even though it’s the only restaurant that offers Mexican food in Bled, you can still get Italian and, in general, international dishes here. Having been a professional athlete, the owner travelled extensively and is now obsessed with having the same customer service he has seen around the world, and it shows. He also plans to organize different live events during the summer. Try to spot the giant calculator behind the counter if you order a drink! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. AUGB

Gostilna Avsenik Begunje 21, Begunje, tel. 533 34

02, www.avsenik.com. While Slovenian music might not be sweeping the global charts, you can find a few international celebrities by heading to this restaurant. The Avesnik Brothers are the world’s reining kings of “Oberkrainer” polka (with gold and platinum records abounding), and their centuries-old family restaurant, in their hometown of Begunje, draws crowds from around the world not only for its homemade regional food but also for its regular polka performances, dance floor, and yearly festival (see Culture and Events). Avsenik is a great way to encounter Slovenia’s particular form of Alpine culture, but if you’re looking for a place to dine and chat, this isn’t it; the music is extremely loud and the sound of accordion pierces through everything. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€6-15). TAULGBX

Gostilna, Pizzeria & Brewery Gala In Hraška 13,

Lesce, tel. 531 60 00, fax 531 60 01, galain.nida@ gmail.com, www.gala-in.si. Tucked away outside Lesce, this complex is a pub, restaurant, pizzeria and brewery all housed under one roof. The environment here provides a perfect sanctuary for beer lovers gulping down pints of the establishment’s treasure: the ‘Gala In’ beer. The culinary concept of refined pub food and pizzas also melts down perfectly with a pint. A popular establishment amongst locals, who have acquired a habit of returning night after night. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €6-18.TAUIGBK

Juliana D-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. 579 10 00, ghtop-

lice@hotelibled.com. Enjoy a top quality meal on a terrace with a stunning view at Juliana, where you can expect service to treat you like Prince Charles, who’s been sighted here before. It’s not cheap, so make your slow food last extra long.

QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. PTALGBX

Labod D-2, Cesta Svobode 8a, tel. 579 84 53, www.resta-

vracijalabod.si. This very upmarket restaurant adjoined to the Hotel Jelovica provides an International a-la-carte menu along with a fair pick of vegetarian friendly meals. Not a bad choice for a meal with business associates or a romantic lunch or dinner along its

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

PIZZERIA GALLUS

Location: TC BLED, Ljubljanska cesta 4, Open from 11.00 - 23.00, Saturday 11-24 www.pizzeriagallus.si

admirable lake-side garden, pleasantly adorned amongst green chestnut trees and fountains. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€13-20). PTJAULEBKSW

Lectar Inn Restaurant Linhartov Trg 2, Radovljica, tel.

537 48 00, fax 537 48 04, info@lectar.com, www.lectar. com. The restaurant provides a special romantic ambience, serving a selection of deliciously Slovene cuisine and wines: an impressive opportunity for any occasion, event or business social. Folk music and dancing is arranged on most evenings for some light entertainment for the restaurant’s guests. The restaurant is adequately divided into several rooms which is perfect for those coming in larger gatherings, or with a family or just a couple. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Sun. JulyAugust open every day. PTJA6UGBK

Pizzeria Gallus D-3, Ljubljanska 4, tel. 574 32 99/040 416

167, www.pizzeriagallus.si. Sure, you can come because of the view, which is beautiful. You might also come to enjoy the pizza, which is delicious and comes from a wood-fired oven. But the reason why we enjoy coming here the most is the lively service.

Not only will you enjoy their traditional Tuscan food, but you will also be entertained by the waiters who will serve you kindly and take great pride in the restaurant’s food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PA

Pizzeria Rustika D-2, Riklijeva 13, tel. 576 89 00, fax

578 04 03, pizzeriarustika@gmail.com, www.pizzeria-rustika.com. Snug in between the winding streets behind St. Martin’s Church, resides a cosy and sympathetic pizza restaurant in which, those that may stumble upon it are rewarded with big portions of mouth-watering pizzas, salads and hamburgers. Its’ refreshing terrace and warm interior welcome you after a day’s walk around Lake Bled. Home delivery available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 15:00 - 23:00. €5-10. TAGBK

Rikli Restaurant & Pizzeria D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15,

tel. 579 18 18, fax 579 18 02, www.hotel-park-bled.com.

The establishment almost guarantees a flow of customers in this two-in-one restaurant thanks to its prime location under the Park Hotel Bled and just a skip away from the magnificent lake.

You can take your pick from the pizzeria that delivers an inventive assortment of smothering pizzas or the sophisticated Mediterranean restaurant, which serves freshly cooked fish and meat dishes. An ideal place for larger gatherings or working lunches.

QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Pizzeria open daily 10:00-22:00 €15.

PJAULGBKW

Vila Bled Restaurant B-4, Cesta Svobode 26, tel. 579

15 00, www.vila-bled.com. The famous Vila Bled hotel restaurant, inside Tito’s beautiful former lakeside residence, offers both serene surroundings and top-notch cuisine. Known across the country for the excellent food and wine, it’s a smash hit for wedding parties and events. Normal guests can stroll around the grounds before sitting in the stately interior or on the terrace for their meal. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00; 18:00 - 22:00. (€19-30).

TALEGBXW

August - September 2009

72

bled izola

bled NON-STOP

0 - 24

Pub Bled D-3, Cesta Svobode 19a, tel. 574 26 22.

Upmarket

Bled’s top party place, with over a hundred mixed drinks and cocktails on the menu and DJs every night, it attracts a varied mix of tourists, students, weekend lovers and local party animals. There’s also a big screen TV that more often than not is tuned to some live sporting event, and if you manage to stop by in the morning for a glass of your preferred hang over remedy you can enjoy nice views of the castle and free wireless internet. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PR6EGBXW

Belvedere Dobrava 1a, tel. 660 51 00, belvedere@ belvedere.si, www.belvedere.si/index_eng.php. One of Izola’s most upmarket options is actually situated a few kilometres away, on a bluff overlooking the town and Gulf of Trieste. The complex’s leafy grounds contain a central hotel along with several smaller villas and a large oddly phallic-shaped swimming pool, while the rooms themselves come with all the standard four-star amenities and most also have balconies. It’s quite a hike up the hill if you’re without your own transport - although public buses do ply the route with some frequency during the week and there is no shortage of taxis. PA6ILKCW hhhh

Casinos

Casino Tivoli Hraška 21, Lesce, tel. 532 55 60, info@

casino-tivoli.si, www.casino-tivoli.si. Out near the gas station and a small shopping center in nearby Lesce, Casino Tivoli sits as a glittering bastion of gambling for the truly devoted.

There are no croupiers or card dealers here, no VIP for high rollers, just two levels of electronic roulette and electronic slot machines. The price of admission gets you two free glasses of beer or wine, and they keep a chilled self-serve buffet off to the side in case you find you’ve spent your grocery money.

Q Open 24hrs. Admission €5 (includes gambling ticket and 2 drinks). PAULEGX

What to see Essential Bled

Bled Castle C-2 , tel. 572 97 82, blejski.grad@zkbled.

Vila Prešeren D-2, Veslaška promenada 14, tel. 575

25 10, fax 575 25 19, vila.preseren@siol.net, www.vilapreseren.si. Checking out the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get any easier than this. The big trendy terrace of this villa’s café and restaurant puts you inches from the lake where you can you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy view, while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also feature a full bistro style menu of continental and regional fare, and from dessert you’ll find a range of Bled’s famous creamy cakes. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (€7,50-32). PTA6GBXSW

Nightlife Bars & Clubs

Art cafe D-2, Cesta Svobode 7a, tel. 574 34 11. A popular

social hangout for the younger clientele, especially students from the nearby IEDC Bled School of Management who like to stop by and mingle amongst themselves. When there’s an important sports event on TV, the place fills up fast and so do the glasses! The wide, open terrace that overlooks the lake also brings a steady flow of tourists. The gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds a touch of charm to its homely interior.

Definitely, a satisfying choice for day and night time entertainment.QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJA6ILGBXW

Devil Bar Caffe D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. 574 21

10. Cheeky cavorting imps seducing naked women over the bar, organ pipes on the walls, Cuban cigars, toasted sandwiches et all. One of Bled’s most popular spots, not least for the magnificent view over the lake, packs punters in on two floors and a large terrace for daily lunch specials and heavy late-night drinking sessions. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. JAB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

si, www.blejski-grad.si. Perched quite dramatically high up on a cliff overlooking the lake and town, Bled Castle is the stuff of children’s dreams. Built and added to haphazardly over the ages since conception around 1000AD, the castle is a pretty mash of styles. You can visit period rooms, a 16th century chapel, the cellar, herbal gallery and restaurant. Q Admission €7/3.50.

Lake Bled Tel. 041 427 155 Bled’s most famus feature is the crystal-clear lake which has an island crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of mountains makes this view especially irresistable. Visitors can take a boat tour to the island (€12, tel. 041 427 155) on characteristic pletna boats, which include half an hour to wander around or visit the church. Boats leave from the Health Park, at Hotel Park and at the rowing centre.

Churches

Church of the Assumption B-3, Bled island. Sticking out of the island in the middle of the lake, the Church of the Assumption has been much battered by earthquakes and lightning over the centuries. Several churches have occupied this prime location since one was first built here in the 12th century. The current incarnation is from the 17th century. Inside, the impressive altar and the last surviving frescoes from an earlier Gothic church are worth a look.

St. Martin’s Church D-2. A white neo-Gothic beauty

erected in 1905, St. Martin’s was designed by same architect who designed Vienna’s town hall, and it shows in the sheer verticality of the building. The church is surrounded by the walls which had to protect the earlier church from Ottoman incursions. The interior has frescoes from the late 1930s.

www.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

73

Manzioli Palace in Old Izola

Getting there Arriving by Bus Although the Byzantines only controlled Izola for a short time over a thousand years ago, the regional bus operator Veolia has apparently dedicated their timetables to the notoriously complex empire. The arrival and departure times are affixed with a dizzying array of letters and symbols (up to seven characters long) denoting the days and seasons that the listed time is actually in operation, which inevitably leads to much double- and triple-checking accompanied by understandable frustration. The good news is that buses to Portorož and Piran, and to Koper and onward to the rest of Slovenia run frequently from the outside the main post office on Cankarjev Drevored.

Arriving by Car

From Ljubljana take the A1 motorway to Koper, and follow the signs to Portorož which will take you the remaining 4km along the coast on Route 111. From Trieste in Italy take the S15 south to Koper and follow the directions above. There is a large public car park next to the port.

Arriving by Train The nearest train station is in Koper, which has up to five trains a day to and from Ljubljana.

Where to stay Izola’s accommodation options can be roughly divided into two main categories: private apartments in and around the old city centre and larger resort-style hotels to the south and west of the modern marina on the other side of town. Exceptions include the wonderful Marina Hotel situated right next to the old fishing port and the Stara Šola Hostel in the secluded hill town of Korte, which is actually closer to Croatia than Izola but still manages to be part of the town’s greater municipal district.

Tourist Information Tourist information J-6, Sončno nabrežje 4, tel.

640 10 50, fax 640 10 52, tic.izola@izola.si, www. izola.eu. Q September- June: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-12:00. July- August: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-17:00, Sunday 10:00-17:00

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mid-range

Delfin I-7, Tomažičeva 10, tel. 660 70 00, delfin.

recepcija@siol.net, www.hotel-delfin.si/ang/uvodna. htm. Located right next to the marina, it’s not the most modern hotel in town, but with a heated outdoor sea water pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach it’s probably the best option for those wanting to spend a significant amount of their time in the water. The clientèle seems to be a bit on the grey-haired side, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding some stiff competition on the hotel’s bocce courts. Q 219 rooms (singles €45-64, doubles €76-114).

PTALBKC hhh

Hostels

Stara Šola Korte Korte 74, tel. 642 11 14/031 375

889, info@hostel-starasola.si, www.hostel-starasola. si/eng. This beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great option for those who would prefer the charms of a peaceful countryside village to the more tourist-centric coastal towns, although it definitely helps to have your own transport as Korte is actually closer to the Croatian frontier than Izola or Portorož. Brightly coloured private rooms and dormitories are reasonably priced especially for larger groups and longer stays, and the surrounding hills, villages and vineyards are just begging to be explored by bike, foot or horseback. Q 17 rooms & 2 apartments (dorms €20-24, doubles €40-48, quads €68-84, apartments €80-100).

A6LW

Apartments

Turistična Agency Bele Skale J-6, Cankarjev Drevored

2, tel. 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si/index_eng.php. Can arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, although be aware that the former are often in short supply and there is a strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even if you’re in town doing research for a guide book), so advanced booking is must.

They also offer various excursions as far afield as Venice, and boat trips lasting from 3 hours to an entire day.

Where to eat Coffee & Cakes

Café Alle Porte J-6, Koprska 1. At the convergence

of two windy back streets near the the fruit and vegetable market on Etbina Kristana Trg, this picture perfect little café is one of our favourite places to meet for a coffee, and the softly-lit cosy interior is a great place to lounge around in with a good book or a stack of postcards during the colder months. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

PJAB

August - September 2009

74

izola Film Festival Kino Otok Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. 641 48 01/616

21 40, info@isolacinema.org, www.isolacinema. org. After a two year hiatus, the Kino Otok film festival is returning strong for its fifth instalment between 10-14 September 2009. This largely open air event is a must see as much for the great selection of international films as the laid-back atmosphere of Izola’s old town. Check out the festival website for more details.

izola Moby Dick Bar J-7, Dantejeva 4, tel. 51 64 65 65, www.mobydickisola.com. In a town that’s essentially still an old fishing village at heart, it’s fitting that the most popular night spot is named after Melville’s famous whale, however there’s no guarantee that it’ll be packed on any given night - especially out of season. In addition to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over every square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can find an electronic dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance and a billiard table in the back.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJALB

Clubs International

Gostilna Korte Korte 44, tel. 642 02 00/41 60 78 63,

gostilnakorte@siol.net, www.gostilnakorte.si/. Locals and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine at this traditional inn.

The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the mood to eat.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.

Mediterraneo I-7, Tomažičeva ulica 4A, tel. 641 74 44, www.mediterraneo.si. Located inside the modern marina to the west of the city centre, this new addition to Izola’s culinary scene is in a class of its own when it comes to trendy upmarket dining - we don’t recall seeing much abstract contemporary art at other places around town. The menu leans heavily on modern Italian cuisine with seafood of course taking centre stage. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. PAL

Pizza

Pizzeria Odeon J-7, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. 41 82 70

39. Connected to the city’s tiny but reputable single screen cinema, this place is equal parts pizzeria and coffee house.

Its street side seating area is a great place to watch people amble along the leafy boulevard, and one of the world’s quaintest police stations is housed in a pink villa directly opposite.

QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (€4-7). JABS

Seafood

Parangal J-6, Sončno Nabrežje 20, tel. 641 74 40/041

67 38 46, linda.international@siol.net. Offers all kinds of meats, pastas, pizzas and traditional Istrian cuisine, but don’t be fooled - this is a place you come to for one reason only: seafood. Not the cheapest option in town, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise given its location and reputation. There’s also a large courtyard which has something of a tropical flavour to it and is a good place for a drink with or without food.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-24). TJABS

Nightlife Bars & Pubs

Cantante Caffe I-8, Morova 25e. Located the commercial centre just next to the San Simon complex, at night it attracts relatively heavy traffic from among the resort’s guest - an expedient option for those who don’t feel like walking more than 50m or having any trouble finding the way back to their rooms after one too many drinks. Inside you’ll find a modern interior, decent selection of drinks and, more often than not, speakers pumping out Latin music. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Ambasada Gavioli Industrijska 10, www.boomerang-pro-

duction.si/. Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers.

The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music. PALE

What to see Essential Izola

Besenghi degli Ughi Palace J-6, Gregorčičeva 76, tel. 662 67 00/040 631 034. Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory. By day it currently serves as Izola’s music school, which means visitors can take a look around while lessons are taking place.

Church of St Mary of Halieatum J-6, Manziolijev Trg. The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town.

It’s not often open to the public, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two.

Manzioli Palace Manzioli Square 5, tel. 616 21 31,

agnese.babic@siol.net. Originally built in 1470 under the direction of one of Izola’s first mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the recently renovated palace is one of the oldest buildings in the city and home to both the offices of the local Italian self-government and an incredibly charming wine bar.

Model Ship Museum Alme Vivode 3, tel. 640 10

51, tic.izola@izola.si. The ground floor of the Parenzana Museum is a space dedicated to the history of ship building in Istria, an industry going all the way back to 1441. Aside from its extensive collection of model ships the museum also displays various maritime-related pieces along with historical photographs and drawings. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

St Maurus Church J-6, Trg Svetega Mavra. Sitting atop Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

KORTE 1 page

76

TOP 5 SOUVENIRS

Shopping

Salt When discussing which souvenirs are most typical Slovenia, one oft-mentioned item in particular always seems to raise eyebrows: salt. More specifically, salt from the centuries old Sečovlje salt pans on the coast south of Portorož. While it’s technically the same stuff you find on every dinner table in the world, the location and traditional production methods give it a recognisably unique flavour. It’s actually quite well-known among gourmands worldwide, and as far away as Japan some high-end sushi restaurants use it exclusively. If you’re not making the trip to the coast, you can visit the Piranske Soline shop on Mestni Trg. Yugostalgia

With so many things to chose from but limited suitcase space into which to cram stu f f, deciding on what souvenirs to buy while in Ljubljana can be a daunting task. Although it’s far from definitive, we’ve made things easier by narrowing it down to a more manageable list of five popular items.

Schnapps

It may say more about us than any thing else, but Sl ove nia n s c h napps i s our gi ft of choice when visiting friends and family abroad. Slovenes swear by the stuff, not only as a digesti f but also as a cure all for most common a i l m e n t s a n d pi c k- m e u p o n t h os e c ol d d a r k winter mornings. The more popular varieties include borovnica (blueberry), medica (honey) and viljamovka (pear) - the latter often coming with an entire pear mysteriously inside the bottle. If you’re thinking of taking some home, keep in mind the 100ml rule if you are flying at any point on your return journey, which means you can either opt for the tiny ornamental bottles or take your chances packing the larger ones in you checked baggage.

With each passing year Sl ove nia’s i d e n ti t y as a f o r m e r Yu g o s l a v r e p u b l i c seems to become a little less pronounced, however, in the minds of many tourists th e countr y’s 20 th centur y heritage is still somewhere near the forefront - especially when it comes time to pick up some souvenirs. The best place to find old Yugoslav coins, banknotes, stamps and medals from the not so distant past is the flea market that’s held every Sunday along the Ljubljanica. Straying from politics into the realm of unrepentant kitsch, another of our favourites are old Yugo pop 45s - we’d be lying if we said we listen to the stuff, but some of the covers are great. And of course there’s always the ubiquitous Tito t-shirts that can usually be found at stalls in the train station underpass or near Triple Bridge.

Lace Located some 50km west of Ljubljana, the town of Idrija is largely known for two things: mercury and lace. Although both undoubtedly make fine gifts for friends and family back home, the lace industry has apparently done a much better job promoting itself and is widely recognised as producing some of the highest quality lace in the world. A surprising variety of lace goods - from simple cloths and handkerchiefs to gloves, necklaces and even earrings - can be found at Galerija Idrijska Čipka on Mestni Trg.

Dragons

Ljubljana’s famous dragon actually comes with quite a pedigree, making its first h i s tori c al app ea ra n c e i n the legend of Jason and the Golden Fleece. Unfortunately for the dragon it would also be its last, as it was slain by the stick y-fingered Greek and his crew of Argonauts on their way to the Adriatic.

However, much like Marilyn Monroe or 2Pac in the 20th century, an untimely death turned out to be a great career move for the mythical beast, as he was eventually adopted as the symbol of Ljubljana and his image can now be found on all manner of trinkets, t-shirts and other souvenirs.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

One of the great things about this city is the fact that you can shop old fashioned the way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this – if we’re honest- one of our fave shopping cities in Europe.

The main shopping streets in the centre of the city are uls.

Breg, Zidovska, Hribarevo and Stari Trg. There are also plenty of stores on central Slovenska Cesta, and in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river, and Mestni Trg on the opposite bank. Indeed, Mestni Trg is a cracking place to shop, with great little boutiques standing side by side next to cafés, bars and restaurants; shop, then chill out!

If you like want a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.

Art & Antiques

Idrijska čipka B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. 425 00 51, voncina.irma@siol.net, www.idrija-lace.com. The region of Idrija is particularly noted for its fine lace work, dating back to the 1600s, and Idrijska čipka showcases both traditional designs and more contemporary pieces. At the shop you can get an introduction to all things lace, including a demonstration from the shop assistant on the piece she is currently working on - she claimed that she is just a beginner, but it looked pretty perfect to us. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Laura C-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 20, tel. 433 83 70. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Books

Antikvariat B-3/4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 21, tel. 425 40 07. A small selection of second-hand books including a few novels in English. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Mladinska Knjiga Slovenska 29, tel. 241 36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.si, www.mladinska.com. The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English language books in the country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Oxford Center C-3, Kopitarjeva 2, tel. 360 37 89, knjigarna.oxford@mk-trgovina.si. Lots of novels in English, plus a wide selection of dictionaries, maps and guidebooks.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Cosmetics

L’Occitane Mestni Trg 7 Ljubljanske Brigade 33 Cit-

ypark, tel. 426 03 72, www.loccitane.si. Named for an ancient province that once covered a wide swath of Mediterranean Europe, this well-known international retailer of body, face and home products currently has ten stores in Slovenia, three of which are located in Ljubljana. The environmentallyconscious company aims to preserve the natural traditions of the Mediterranean region - especially those of Provence, France where it was founded some thirty years ago - and each product in its extensive range comes with a unique true story.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

77

78

Shopping

Shopping Melvita Stari Trg 18, www.melvita.com. Melvita is one of France’s leading organic cosmetics brands, which has been creating natural, high-quality products for more than a quarter century. Their product range includes a wide selection of natural ingredients sourced from around the world, which are produced using mostly organic farming methods. In addition to their shop in Ljubljana’s old town they also have a location at the Europark shopping centre in Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Fair Trade

3 Muhe B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. 421 07 15, 3muhe@

umanotera.org, www.3muhe.si. Hippie colours, funky clothes, wooden statues, bongos and incense sticks are all on display at 3 Muhe, which is fair trade certified. There is always a chance of finding something unique to take back home with you, however nothing is the least bit Slovenian, so souvenir shoppers should probably look elsewhere.QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenianmade designer clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding something surprisingly original.

Boutique Lacoste B-2, Dalmatinova 10, tel. 431 50

68, info@florida-wellness.si, www.florida-wellness.si.

There may not be any crocodiles in the Ljubljanica, but there are plenty in this Lacoste boutique. Find a massive range of gear from the French casual specialists, from the classic polo shirt to footwear. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Butik La Vision C-2, Prečna ul. 4, tel. 232 16 80, info@la-vision.net. When I first heard about this place two things happened: I realized I needed a helpful female fashion expert and I immediately thought I’d feel like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman with older women wondering if we could really afford their precious garments. My preconception was completely wrong. The tiara-wearing clerk was attentive, showed great style herself and lacked any hint of condescending attitude. According to my expert consultant the items on display were designer labels at very good prices, considering what you’re getting. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Dolce & Gabbana Outlet Cankarjeva 10. With its odd basement location, limited working hours and a sign reading “For members only” out front, we were surprised not to be asked for a password before being let in. However, once inside we were well taken care of. Definitely a unique shopping experience. QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Flat C-2, Miklošičeva 18, tel. 1 2322055/1 2322056, info@flat.si, www.flat.si. Sprouting creativity and a fresh new concept through the creation of innovative furniture and accessories for home or office. Browse through the selection of incredibly large wall clocks, hand crafted and painted bed side tables and hanging chairs made of bamboo. A unique, modern and humorous collection for a post-modern home.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. H & M B-2, Čopova 2, tel. 241 04 20. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Kipling Store B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. 251 10 10. Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses) for ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

La Perla Studio B-2, Miklošičeva 7A, tel. 434 00 60, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

79

Shopping

Shopping Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Oliviers&Co B-2, Slovenska 46, tel. 232 22 92, www. oliviers-co.com. Fine imported delicacies hard to find elsewhere in Ljubljana. Only the best mustards, pastas, pate and sauces from around the world are on sale here. It smells great and it’s difficult not to spend a fortune. QOpen 09:00 100 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Spar C-3, Poljanski Nasip 8, tel. 282 18 03, sm13.kapitelj@spar.si, www.spar.si. A well-stocked supermarket.

95 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

M;B9EC; JE J>; CEIJ CE:;HD I>EFF?D= 9;DJ;H ?D JEMD C[hYWjeh 9[dj[h B`kXb`WdW _ aW m[bYec[i oek m_j^ W hWd][ e\ ^_]^ gkWb_jo fheZkYji$ C[hYWjeh ^of[hcWha[j m_bb ikhfh_i[ oek m_j^ dkc[heki d[m WZZ_j_edi" hWd]_d] \hec j^[ ^[Wbj^o \eeZ i[Yj_ed" ^_]^ gkWb_jo m_d[ i[b[Yj_ed WdZ W lWh_[jo e\ \h[i^ fheZkYji" je][j^[h m_j^ Wd [nY[bb[dj i[hl_Y[ WdZ ceZ[hd j[Y^debe]o$ J^[ e\\[h e\ j^[ h[ij e\ j^[ i^eff_d] Y[dj[h _i de b[ii WjjhWYj_l[0 7l[d_`W ceZ[ ¼<Wi^_ed Wl[dk[½ WdZ ej^[h ijeh[i i[bb_d] ^_]^#[dZ Ybej^_d] XhWdZi" ?dj[hifehj" Yeic[j_Y i^efi" C[hYWjeh h[ijWkhWdj WdZ ej^[h h[ijWkhWdji" Y^_bZh[d¿i fbWo_d] Yehd[h WdZ ckY^ ceh[$

MEHA?D= >EKHI

mmm$c[hYWjeh$i_

C[hYWjeh 9[dj[h B`kXb`WdW _ aW" 9[ijW B`kXb`Wdia[ Xh_]WZ[ ))" B`kXb`WdW" j[b0 &'%+' )/ /+($

CedZWo#IWjkhZWo0 / W$c$#/ f$c$" IkdZWoi WdZ ^eb_ZWoi0 / W$c$#) f$c$

Lili in Roza B-3, Stari trg 30, tel. 425 30 50. Just one

street away from the river in the old town, Lili in Roza is the only clothing store in the city to specialize in Oilily products.

The staff is pleasant and helpful, even if they cram the shelves with a little too much merchandise. Dealing exclusively in women’s and children’s clothing, this little shop is a great place to pick up something for the kids, then take them for an ice cream right next door.

Mandarina Duck B-3, Wolfova ulica 1, tel. 251 10 10. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the glitterati.

Look out for the trademark wooden ducks in the window: alas they are not for sale.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Marella A/B-3, Slovenska 28, tel. 426 92 44, info@ morris.si, www.morris.si. A slightly less expensive alternative to its upmarket sister, Max Mara, this spacious newly-renovated boutique on the city’s main thoroughfare always offers a fresh diversified collection of contemporary women’s wear. Mediterranean white is the dominant colour of the Spring/Summer ‘09 collection, which hails the triumphant return of sophistication while emphasizing the seductive powers of simplicity. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marina Rinaldi B-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. 433 04 85, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Max Mara B-2, Miklošičeva 6, tel. 426 58 80, info@ morris.si, www.morris.si. Located opposite the Grand Hotel Union just steps away from the city’s main square, this is the well-known Italian fashion group’s Slovenian flagship.

Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, so you might want to start thinking now about how you can claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Peko Miklošičeva 14, tel. 59 089 068, ljubljana.miklos-

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Markets

C[hYWjeh Z$Z$" :kdW`iaW '&-" '&&& B`kXb`WdW

80

iceva@peko.si, www.peko.si. This new and nicely laid out shoe shop has everything for the feet, from flash trainers to leather boots to handmade Italian loafers, with stockings in stock as well. And because a new pair of shoes needs a new accessory to go with them, Peko stocks a range of handbags as well. So if you break a heel on the cobblestones or just feel the need for some retail therapy pop into Peko to invigorate your soles and your soul.

Rašica B-2, Gosposvetska 3, info@rasica.si, www. rasica.si. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Stiefelkönig B-2, Cankarjeva 3, tel. 421 54 70. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Studio Hosiery B-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel. 430 25 77, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zara B-2, Cankarjeva 2, tel. 421 45 00, www.zara.si.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Food & Drink Apart from eating out in Ljubljana’s best restaurants and drinking at its’ array of wine cellars, bars and pubs, excellent produce can also be found at markets and shopping centres. If you prefer to cook for yourself during your stay come here to stock up on food and drinks.

Koželj B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. 251 36 44, vinoteka.dvor@ siol.net, www.kozelj.si. Somewhere in the region of 85% Slovenian-grown and -produced wine, plus reds, whites and rosés from around the world. The gregarious chap who runs the place is an expert and will help you through the minefield of local plonk.

QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mercator B-2, Cigaletova 2, tel. 234 21 90, info@ mercator.si, www.mercator.si. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00,

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

81

10

95

75

75

Slovenia’s fertile soil and mild Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect breeding ground for a variety of fruits and vegetables. The markets bring about the freshest produce from the local villages and farms along with dairy 5 products and meats. Particularly the Central Market2 at Vodnikov trg and Pogacarjev trg, designed by the famous architect Joze Plecnik, is an excellent place both for shop5 ping and socializing.

25

BTC Market J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 585 140 56. A

0

5

classic food produce market, modernised and brought up to date by the large BTC group. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Central Market (Glavna tržnica) C-3, , tel. 300 12 00, info@lj-trznice.si. Food and local produce in a covered space and an open market square just northeast of the Dragon Bridge.

Photography

Foto Maxi A/B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. 252 74 50,

fotomaxi@siol.net, www.fotomaxi.com. If you can’t wait to get home to start going through your latest holiday photos, this photo shop inside the Maxi shopping center, offers fast and efficient services for digital and manual snappers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Foto Tivoli B-2, Cankarjeva 7, tel. 422 36 30, info@ foto-tivoli.si, www.foto-tivoli.si. One of the better photographic shops in the city centre selling not only the usual supply of cameras and accessories but also a wide range of photographic paper and chemicals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Recorded music

Vom Second Hand B-2, Čopova 14, tel. 252 1790 021,

10

vom@vom.si, www.vom.si. A tiny shop found down an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection of 5 mostly but not exclusively second-hand vinyl and CDs.9 Music on offer includes classic rock and some gems from some of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, 75 Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

95

75

Sex shops

Red Shop C-3, Gornji trg 24, tel. 425 32 29/41 62

46 08, redshopnada@gmail.com, www.redshop.si/.

25 Concentrating mainly on sex toys of all sorts, this store offers a great variety of accessories that will help you enrich 5 clerk, your sex life. Just don’t expect much help from the in English or otherwise. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Venera Shop C-2, Trubarjeva 43, tel. 432 41 83,0www. venera-shop.si. Ever wondered about going a little crazier in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this sex shop you’ll find all the little toys your heart might desire. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

25 5 0

I n y o u r p o c k e t aAugust v g u s t - 6September 0 x 1 8 5 m m 2009

82

Shopping Shopping centres

NEW

Made in Slovenia Slovenska 23, tel. 051 228 249,

btc.si, www.btc-city.com. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,000 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Citypark J-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. 587 30 50, info@ citypark.si, www.citypark.si. City Park is Ljubljana’s biggest shopping centre, and the only place in the city to find everything you want under one roof. Besides the massive variety of stores (every major high street brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places to eat: most of the restaurants here are far better than your shopping mall average. There’s parking for all, and so big is this place that even on the busiest of weekends it never feels opressively full. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

M Center tehnike in gradnje Črnuče H-1, K sejmišču 32, tel. 560 61 00, info@mercator.si, www.mercator.si.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Mercator Center Ljubljana H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. 513 99 52, info@mercator.si, www. mercator.si. A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Nama B-2, Tomšičeva 1, tel. 425 83 00, info@nama. si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, this well established department store provides several floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. Supernova J-3, Jurčkova 223, tel. 428 88 83, info@ supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-caneat sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

info@madeinslovenia.net, www.madeinslovenia.net/.

These guys have been selling exclusively Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary music and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop in the arcade opposite Kongresni Trg was still undergoing some finishing touches when we visited in late July, but we liked what we saw.

Piranske soline B-3, Mestni trg 19, tel. 425 01 90, www.soline.si. Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of life’s essentials. Here at Piranske soline the canvas bags that fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff.

There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and containers. And, if all the walking, gawking and talking you’ve done has made you feel a little weary, pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath salts and scrubs where the cleansing and invigorating properties of salt are combined with soothing eucalyptus and rosemary oils. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Rustika C-3, Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle)/031 38 32 47. Everything from ghastly ceramic dragons to traditional paintings on glass to wooden spoons to jewellery inside the castle’s very own little gift shop.They also have a shop in the center (Stritarjeva 9, B-3) Q Ljubljana castle: daily: 09:00-20:00 (in the winter 10:00-19:00)In the centre: Mo.-Fr.: 09:00-20:00, Sa.: 10:00-14:00 , 15:00-19:00, Su.: 10:00-14:00 STIC Krekov trg 10, tel. 306 45 75, stic@visitljubljana. si, www.visitljubljana.si. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. That’Slovenia Tel. 059 190 784, info@thatslovenia. com, www.thatslovenia.com.

Tourist Information Centre C-3, , tel. 306 12 15. Trinkets, T-shirts, mugs and more. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Trgovina Ika C-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. 1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si. New RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion.

You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Souvenirs

Sports & Recreation

92 86, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek.si. A charming, family-run business with three shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Ljubljanček C-2, Miklošičeva 1, (Grand Hotel Union), tel.

059 0 25 727, dusan.orel@amis.net. Attached to Grand Union Hotel, in Ljubljancek you can take a look through souvenirs of plates, photos, art and gadgets in relation to the town of Ljubljana.

It is worth stopping by if you’re looking to buy souvenirs and gifts for your family back home. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

mercator.si, www.intersport.si. Everything you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Marina Yachting Mestni Trg 25, B-3, tel. 590 38360.

Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachtsman could need, and a few things he might not.

Patrick Sport d.o.o. H-2, Celovška cesta 34, tel. 439 10 15, fax 439 10 10. Whether you are skier, you love hiking or any of the sport activities that are popular in Slovenia, you should check out this specialised store. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Seaway B-3, Igriška 12, tel. 425 44 13, info@aquas.si, www.aquas.si. Everything you could possible need before heading out sailing or fishing. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but most of the big department stores and supermarkets are just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.

BTC City J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 585 22 22, info@

Čokoladnica Cukrček B-3, Mestni Trg 11, tel. 519

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Intersport B-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. 242 77 57, intersport@

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mail & Phones

T-shirts and caps in the best shops in Slovenia

Debitel Tel. 306 01 00, center@debitel.si, www.

Postal rates Slovenia Abroad

Letters <20g € 0.24 € 0.45

Postcards € 0.20 € 0.40

Slovenia has perhaps the most advanced telecommunications system of any former Eastern European country, so there’s one less excuse for not keeping in touch with people back home.

more than a souvenir

Express mail

DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. 588 78 00, www.dhl.si. QO-

pen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. FedEx J-2, Ob Železnici 14, tel. 547 33 86. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Kurirček , tel. 080 1881/051 444 555, narocila@ kurircek.si, www.kurircek.si. Q Open 07:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Tine Express J-1, Ulica Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel.

56 17 000, www.tine.si. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Express J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. 587 83 00, info@ tnt.si, www.tnt.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. 281 12 00, www. ups-slovenia.com. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Laptop login

officinalis Rožmarin Rosmarinus caryophyllus Nagelj Dianthus radens Roženkravt Pelargonium

Travellers can easily hook up to Slovenia’s wifi network by surfing to www.neowlan.net; there are hotspots allover the country, and payment is by prepaid NeoWLAN cards, for sale at kiosks and post offices, or by credit card. Charges are €3 per half hour, €9 per 2 hours or €15-19 per 24 hours. With a local Mobitel SIM card you can also connect via your mobile, charged at €0.21 per 5 minutes.

Many hotels offer free wifi for their guests, but there’s also an number of free public wifi locations in Ljubljana, including at the airport and in the Konzorcij bookshop (Slovenska 29). See www.hotspot-locations.com for a full list of paid and unpaid hotspots.

SLOVENSK “Nageljček, I NARODNI roženkraut, ŠOPEK iz njega rožmarin ti pušelc je zapelo ' naredi dekle, ko m …” si je fant nežno dehteč zataknil Govorile ih cvetic šopek so mu za klobuk .

Te iste cveticezgodbo ljubez ni in spomi , poveza so tudi na. ne s troboj simbol ljubezni do domač nico, e zemlje .

SLOVENE NATIONAL “Carnation, BOUQ may join pelargonium, rosemaUET in a bouqu Girls were et for thee ry singing their boys ...” were puttin this farewell song whilst g the Flowers were chanti bouquet on their and memo ng the story hats. ry. with the Same flowers, in of love colour connection are a symbo s of the nation al flag, l of love for homel and.

Visit our e-shop

www.thatslovenia.com That'Slovenia products can be found in shops that offer souvenirs:

DOM – souvenirs shops, KOMPAS Shop - border pass, Stationer's Shops DZS, TIC-Tourist Information Center Ljubljana, VILA Veselova Hostel- Ljubljana, Shop Istranka - Koper, Lapis Boutique -Postojna Cave, shop Marjetica –spa Moravske toplice, shop TROBENTICA - Banovci, SUN TOURS, Hotel Bernardin - Portorož, Hotel Bellevue - Maribor, Hotel Habakuk - Maribor Pohorje, shop IRENA, Breza Hotel Terme Olimia - Podčetrtek, Shop Piri – spa Moravske Toplice.

Mobile phones There are several mobile phone networks in Slovenia, the largest being Mobitel, Simobil and Tušmobil, which are pretty similar in price, quality and coverage. To avoid roaming costs from your foreign home provider or to have a handy local telephone number, travellers can purchase a prepaid SIM card to use in a GSM handset. SIM cards are for sale in all post offices, petrol stations and at 3Dva kiosks as well as at the providers’ shops listed below, with M-mobil cards sold in all Mercator shops. The SIM start-up costs for all companies are between €5-17, including some phone credit. After getting the SIM card you can top up the card balance with vouchers. ID is not necessary when purchasing a SIM card.

City codes When calling from abroad, prefix with +386 and drop the zero.

Celje 03 Murska Sobota 02 Koper 05 Nova Gorica 05 Kranj 04 Novo mesto 07 Krško 07 Postojna 05 Ljubljana 01 Ravne na Koroškem 02 Maribor 02 Trbovlje 03

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

debitel.si.

Mobitel D-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. 472 23 20, info@mobitel.si, www.mobitel.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Tušmobil J-2, , tel. 080 700 700, www.tusmobil.si.

Vodafone Simobil B-3, Čopova 4, tel. 426 71 02, info@ simobil.si, www.simobil.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Post Efficient and affordable, there’s little chance of your mail getting lost.

Main post office (Glavna pošta) B-2, Slovenska 32, tel. 243 19 60, www.posta.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Public internet access Internet cafés and similar ventures.

Drog-Art C-2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. 439 72 70. Internet access for €1,67 per hour. Q Open Tue 15:00-18:00, Thu 09:00-12:00.

Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,

tel. 29 123 96, kolodvor@koz.si, www.koz.si. Internet access for €2/hour in the train station library. Become a member (€12,50) and it’s free. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Xplorer C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. 430 19 91.

Ten machines and a fridge full of cold drinks. Access for €4 per hour, €2.40 per hour if you buy a 5-hour voucher.

Public telephones Telekom Slovenije has card phones with English-language instructions dotted all over Slovenia. Phone cards are for sale at post offices and kiosks, and are available in four flavours: €2.92, €4.18, €7.09 and €14.61.

Telephone calls To make a call within Slovenia, dial the two-digit city code (if you are not in that city), or the mobile phone code, followed by the 7-digit subscriber’s number. From local mobile phones, the city code always needs to be dialled.

To call to Slovenia, dial the international access code, the country code 386, the city code without the zero and the subscriber’s number. To call abroad, dial + followed by the country code, the city code and the subscriber’s number.

Country codes Albania 355 Australia 61 Austria 43 Belarus 375 Belgium 32 Bosnia-Herz. 387 Bulgaria 359 Croatia 385 Czech Rep. 420 Denmark 45 Estonia 372 Finland 358 France 33 Germany 49

Greece Hungary Ireland Israel Italy Japan Kosovo Latvia Lithuania Macedonia Moldova Montenegro Netherlands Norway

30 36 353 972 39 81 381 371 370 389 373 381 31 47

Poland Portugal Romania Russia Serbia Slovakia Slovenia Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey UK Ukraine USA

48 351 40 7 381 421 386 34 46 41 90 44 380 1

August - September 2009

85

Lifestyle Whether you’re visiting Ljubljana for business or pleasure, these pages should provide you with the contacts you need.

If you can’t find it anywhere else then it’s probably here.

Beauty & Wellness

CHAOTHAI masaže za boljše počutje F-3, Jana Husa 3, tel. 040 83 73 63, chaothai.si@gmail.com, www. chaothai.si. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/040 97 14 67.

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. 588 2600/030 388 388, administration.ljubljana@austriatrend.at, www.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Sončni studio body line C-3, Poljanska cesta 15, tel.

040 780 036.

Sončni studio Sun vision J-2, Nove Fužine 47, tel. 040 165 031, info@bodyline.si, www.bodyline.si/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00.

www.koz.si. The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English literature. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. 200 11 88,

info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Home of Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library is every researcher’s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

Media

Delo B-1, Dunajska 5, tel. 473 77 00, info@delo.si,

Health Centre center C-2, Kotnikova 36, tel. 300 96 74, www.zd-lj.si. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, www. zd-lj.si. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30.

www.delo.si.

Dnevnik C-3, Kopitarjeva 2 & 4, tel. 308 21 00, info@ dnevnik.si, www.dnevnik.si.

Pro plus J-1/2, Kranjčeva 26, tel. 589 32 00, info@ pop-tv.si, www.24ur.com.

Radio Slovenia International Ilichova 33, Maribor, tel. 02 429 92 79.

Rtv Slovenija C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. 475 21 11, info@ rtvslo.si, www.rtvslo.si.

Slovenian Press Agency B-1, Tivolska 50, tel. 24 10 10, desk@sta.si, www.sta.si.

Svet & Ljudje F-1, Peričeva ulica 17, tel. 431 8170, savina.dreu@svetinljudje.si, www.svetinljudje.si.

The Slovenia Times A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 12, tel. 520 50 84, info@sloveniatimes.com, www.sloveniatimes.com.

Dry cleaners

Opticians

Dentists

Babit Kolezijska 25, tel. 283 23 73, info@babit.si, www. babit.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dental clinic Zaloška 2, tel. 522 53 46. QOpen 08:00

- 12:00. Closed Sun.

Femiks C-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. 230 18 20, femiks@amis. net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Chemo Express B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. 251 44 04.

QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Labod H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. 518 43

Mestna optika B-3, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. 251 41 56,

Hairdressers

matija.kopac@mestna-optika.si, www.mestna-optika.si.

QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Optika FELIKS A-3, Igriška 14, tel. 425 00 02/040 206 070, info@optikafeliks.com, www.optikafeliks.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. 427 31 03/031 835 500, supernova@optikafeliks.com, www.optikafeliks.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. 252 72 82, info@ zajec-optika.si, www.zajec-optika.si. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Closed Sun.

Pharmacies

26, labod.cistilnica@siol.net, www.cistilnica-labod.si.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Mehurček Viška 54, tel. 256 77 08, mehurcek@ mehurcek.si, www.mehurcek.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mič Styling B-3, Kongresni Trg 4, tel. 241 40 40, www. micstyling.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc J-3, Jurčkova cesta 225, tel. 428 98 98, info@simple.si, www.simple.si. QOpen 8:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. 427 40 98, info@simple.si, www.simple.si. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. 431 51 38, stevo@siol. net, www.stevo-sp.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Language courses

Ars Linguae C-1, Dunajska 10, tel. 300 27 11, info@

ars-linguae.com, www.ars-linguae.com.

Much H-3, Koprska 94, tel. 423 78 60, darja.habjanic@ much.si, www.much.si.

Libraries

Knjižnica Otona Župančiča (Metropolitan Library)

B-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. 600 13 00, info.koz@koz.si,

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Central Pharmacy (Centralna lekarna) B-3,

Prešernov Trg 5, tel. 244 23 60, lekarna.ljubljana@ lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lekarna Ljubljana D-2, Prisojna 7, tel. 230 62 30, lekarna.ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Q Open 24hrs.

Lekarna Miklošič C-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. 230 62 52, lekarna.ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Translators

Alkemist Obirska 4, tel. 514 16 78, info@alkemist.si, www.alkemist.si.

Berlitz B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. 433 13 25, berlitz. ljubljana@berlitz.si, www.berlitz.si.

MultiLingual Komenskega 6, tel. 430 48 27, prevajanje@multilingual.si, www.multilingual.si. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.

August - September 2009

87

88

BUSINESS

Business Banks

Abanka B-2, Slovenska 50, tel. 300 15 00, fax 230 26 40, info@abanka.si, www.abanka.si. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bank Of Slovenia B-2, Slovenska 35, tel. 471 90 00, fax 251 55 16, bsl@bsi.si, www.bsi.si.

Deželna Banka Slovenije C-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel. 472 71 00, fax 472 74 05, info@dbs.si, www.dbs.si. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00;13:30-16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Hypo Group Alpe Adria B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. 580 41 40, fax 425 50 38, hypo-bank-ct@hypo.si, www. hypo-alpe-adria.si. QOpen 08:30 - 12:30;14:00-16:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. 476 39 00, fax 252 25 00, info@nlb.si, www.nlb.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. 234 98 18, fax 234 98 19, info@raiffeisen.si, www.raiffeisen.si.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. 471 59 58, fax 471 57 60, skb.net@skb.si, www.skb.si. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Unicredit Banka Slovenija B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. 587 64 72, fax 587 64 81, info@unicreditgroup.si, www.unicreditbank.si. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business centres

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova 63,

tel. 620 34 80, fax 620 34 97, info@lui.si, www.lui.si.

Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel. 307 09 33, fax 307 08 01, info@poslovniangeli.si, www. poslovniangeli.si.

Tehnološki Park Ljubljana H-2, Teslova 30, tel. 477 66 13, fax 426 18 79, info@tp-lj.si, www.tp-lj.si.

The Business Center (Virtual Office and Business Center) B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. 1 4701 690, info@ thebusinesscenter.si, www.thebusinesscenter.si. Now here’s a brilliantly simple idea. A business centre, complete with real secretaries, workstations and the like, all available by the hour. What’s more, they also have meeting rooms, which you can also rent by the hour. Located in the Best Western Slon hotel, this is your instant office in the heart of Ljubljana. Plug and play.

World Trade Center Ljubljana H-1, Dunajska 156.

Computers

Comshop BTC J-2, Šmartinska 152/9/051 34 59 11, btc@comshop.si, www.comshop.si. QOpen 09:00

- 20:00. Closed Sun. Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. 031 610 604, info@sosed. si, www.sosed.si.

Tech Trade B-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. 434 01 08, info@ techtradecenter.si, www.techtradecenter.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Consultants

IQbator B-2, Drenikova 33, tel. 041690666, info@iqba-

tor.si, www.iqbator.si.

MM-konto H - - 1, Devova 5, tel. 515 50 22, info@mmkonto.si, www.mm-konto.si.

Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. 423 15 06, par@par.si, www.par.si. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. 565 45 67, info@ pro-eco.si, www.pro-eco.si.

Tax-Fin-Lex C-1, Dunajska 20, tel. 432 42 43, fax 432 43 15, info@tax-fin-lex.si, www.tax-fin-lex.si.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

89

90

Business Currency exchange

Menjalnica AŽUR C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. 786 08 80.

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Primus Group C-1/2, Trg OF 6, tel. 432 10 14, menjalnica@siol.net. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Publikum FIN C-2, Miklošičeva 34, tel. 300 60 80, menjalnica@publikum.si, www.publikum.si. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign representations

Albania J-2, Zaloška 69, tel. 547 36 50, embassy. ljubljana@mfa.gov.al.

Australia (Consulate) H-2, Dunajska 50, tel. 425 42 52, fax 426 47 21, austral.cons.sloven@siol.net. QOpen

09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austria A-3, Prešernova 23, tel. 479 07 00, fax 252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmaa.gv.at, www.bmaa.gv.at./laibach.

QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:00 - 12:00, Fri 8:00 - 10:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. 200 60 10, fax 426 63 95, ljubljana@diplobel.org, www.diplomatie. be/ljubljana. QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 12:30 13:30-16:00, Tue 08:30 - 13:30 13:30-16:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 8:30 - 12:30 13:30-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bosnia & Herzegovina H-1/2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. 234 32 50, fax 234 32 61, ambihlju@siol.net. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Brazil B-3, Kongresni trg 3, tel. 244 24 00, fax 244 24 20, ambassador@brazil.si. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria H-2, Rožna dolina, cesta XV/ 18, tel. 423 24 51, fax 425 88 45, bgembassysl@siol.net. QOpen 8:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canada (consulate) B-2, Trg republike 3, tel. 252 44 44, fax 252 33 33, canada.consul.ljubljana@siol.net.

QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatia C-4, Gruberjevo nabrežje 6, tel. 200 44 01, fax 425 81 06, croemb.slovenia@mvpei.hr, si.mvp.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Cyprus B-2, Komenskega 12, tel. 232 15 42, fax 308 10 15, embassy.cyprus@siol.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Republic A-3, Riharjeva 1, tel. 420 24 50, fax 283 92 59. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. 43 80 800, fax 43 17 417, ljuamb@um.dk, www.ambljubljana.um.dk. Consulate: Komenskega 36, tel. 300 76 60. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Egypt B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. 308 18 50, fax 308 18 43.

Finland B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. 300 21 20, fax 300 21 39, sanomat.lju@formin.fi, www.formin.fi. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. France B-4, Barjanska 1, tel. 479 04 00, fax 425 04 10, info@ambafrance.si, www.ambafrance.si. QOpen 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Germany A-2, Prešernova 27, tel. 479 03 00, fax 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@siol.net. Q Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Greece C-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. 420 14 00, fax 281 11 14, emb.gr.slo@siol.net. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary G-1, Ulica Konrada Babnika 5, tel. 512 18 82, fax 512 18 78, huemblju@siol.net. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Chile (consulate) G-2, Brdnikova 34b, tel./fax 423 96

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

70, matjaz.medvedsek@siol.net. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. China E-2, Koblarjeva 3, tel. 420 28 55, fax 282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00 14:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. India B-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. 513 31 17, fax 513 31 16. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ireland C-3, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. 300 89 70, fax 282 10 96, ljubljanaembassy@dfa.ie, www.dfa.ie. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30; 14:30-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Israel (consulate) H-1, Dunajska 119, tel. 566 10 20, fax 566 10 21. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy A-3, Snežniška 8, tel. 426 21 94, fax 425 33 02, amblubiana@siol.net. Q Open 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. 200 82 81, fax 251 18 22, info@embjp.si. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.

Jordan (consulate) J-2, Zaloška 159, tel. 546 15 00/041 67 93 33, fax 546 15 05, samir.amarin@siol. com. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Latvia B-2, Ajdovščina 4/040 22 91 71, juris.poikans@ mfa.gov.lv, www.mfa.gov.lv. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Lithuania B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. 244 26 11, Amb. si@urm.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 16:45, Fri 08:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun. Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel. 470 70 15, fax 476 29 30, joze.filipic@nlb.si.

Macedonia A-3, Prešernova 2, tel. 421 00 21, fax 421 00 23, makamb@siol.net. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00.

Malta (consulate) B-2, Kersnikova 11/041 444 014, sklesnik@yahoo.com.

Mehico ((consulate)) B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. 470 70 35, fax 328 91 88.

Montenegro D-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. 439 53 64, fax 439 53 60. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Morocco (consulate) H-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. 581 63 00, fax 581 63 40, riko@riko.si.

Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. 420 14 61, fax 420 14 70, lju@minbuza.nl, www.minbuza.nl. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. New Zealand (consulate) H-1, Verovškova 57, tel.

580 30 55, fax 568 10 86, janja.bratos@sandoz.com.

QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel./fax 300 21 40, emb.ljubljana@mfa.no, www.mfa.no. Consulate: Dalmatinova 10, tel. 232 74 10. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. 436 47 12, fax 436 25 21, ambpol.si@siol.net, www.lublana.polemb.net. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. 479 05 40, fax 479 05 50. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00; 14:30-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Romania H-1, Podlimbarskega 43, tel. 505 82 94, fax 505 54 32, embassy.of.romania@siol.net. QOpen , Mon, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, Wed 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. 422 49 20, fax 425 68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net.

Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. 438 01 10, fax 434 26 88, amba.srbije.lju@siol.net. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. 425 54 25, fax 425 05 24, embassy@lublana.mfa.sk, www.lublana.mfa.sk. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. South Korea (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel.

252 71 17, fax 425 92 94.

Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. 420 23 30, fax 420 23 33, emba.espa.eslovenia@siol.net. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Looking for a career in Slovenia?

Join the leading Slovenian Job Portal or visit our events and seminars.

More information at www.mojedelo.com.

92

Business Sweden B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. 30 00 270, fax 30 00 271, ambassaden.ljubljana@foreign.ministry.se, www.sweden.gov.se/sb/d/2059. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. 200 86 40, fax 200 86 69, lj.vertretung@eda.admin.ch, www.eda. admin.ch. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkey B-1, Livarska 4, tel. 236 41 50, fax 436 52 40, vrturcije@siol.net. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UK A-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. 200 39 10, fax 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, www.british-embassy.si.

QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine H-2, Teslova 23, tel. 421 06 04, fax 421 06 03, embassy.ua@siol.net. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA A-2, Prešernova 31, tel. 200 55 00, fax 200 55 55, usembassyljubljana@state.gov, www.usembassy.si. Q There is no opening hours, but you have to announce.

Vatican C-3, Krekov Trg 1, tel. 433 92 04, fax 431 51 30. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Chambers of Commerce

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia H-1, Dimičeva 13, tel. 589 80 00, fax 589 81 00, info@ gzs.si, www.gzs.si.

Insurance companies

Adriatic Slovenica C-2, Miklošičeva 20, tel. 439 81

80, adriatic.zara@siol.net, www.adriatic-slovenica.si.

Generali H-2, Kržičeva 3, tel. 475 71 00, info@mail. generali.si, www.generali.si.

Kd Življenje H-1, Celovška 206, tel. 58 26 522, info@ kd-zivljenje.si, www.kd-zivljenje.si.

Triglav C-2, Miklošičeva 19, tel. 474 73 20, info-triglav@ triglav.si, www.triglav.si.

Lawyers

Janez Pejovnik B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. 200 76 86, odvetnik-pejovnik@siol.net.

Odvetniška družba Mramor, Sorta, Bilić & Holec

C-2, Komenskega 4, tel. 059 93 77 00, info@msbh.si, www.msbh.si.

Odvetniška pisarna Miro Senica in odvetniki B4, Barjanska 3, tel. 252 80 00, odvetniki.attorneys@ senica.si, www.senica.si.

Peter Mele odvetniška pisarna C-2, Resljeva 25, tel. 430 04 61, mele.peter@siol.net, www.odvetnikmele.si.

Ministries

Agriculture, Forestry and Food H-2, Dunajska 58, tel.

478 90 00, gp.mkgp@gov.si, www.mkgp.gov.si.

Culture D-2, Maistrova 10, tel. 369 59 00, gp.mk@gov. si, www.mk.gov.si.

Defence H-1, Vojkova 55, tel. 471 22 11, glavna.pisarna@mors.si, www.mors.si.

Economy C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. 400 33 11, info.mg@ gov.si, www.mg.gov.si.

Education and Sport C-2, Kotnikova 38, tel. 478 42 00, gp.mms@gov.si, www.mss.gov.si.

Environment and Spatial Planning H-2, Dunajska 48, tel. 478 74 00, gp.mop@gov.si, www.mop.gov.si.

Finance B-2, Župančičeva 13, tel. 369 66 10, gp.mf@ gov.s, www.mf.gov.si.

Foreign Affairs A-3, Prešernova 25, tel. 478 20 00,

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Street register info.mzz@gov.si, www.mzz.gov.si.

Health B-2, Štefanova 5, tel. 478 60 01, gp.mz@gov. si, www.mz.gov.si.

Higher Education, Science and Technology D-1, Kotnikova 38, tel. 478 46 00, gp.mvzt@gov.si, www. mvtz.gov.si.

Interior B-2, Štefanova 2, tel. 428 40 00, gp.mnz@gov. si, www.mnz.gov.si.

Justice B-2, Župančičeva 3, tel. 369 52 00, gp.mz.@ gov.si, www.mp.gov.si.

Labour, Family and Social Affairs C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. 369 77 00, gp.mddsz@gov.si, www.mddsz.gov.si.

Public Administration H-2, Tržaška 21, tel. 478 83 30, gp.mju@gov.si, www.mju.gov.si.

Transport H-2, Langusova 4, tel. 478 80 00, gp.mzp@ gov.si, www.mzp.gov.si.

NGOs

Amnesty International B-2, Beethovnova 7, tel. 426

93 77, amnesty@amnesty.si, www.amnesty.si.

Cnvos F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. 542 14 22, info@cnvos. si, www.cnvos.si.

Red Cross (Rdeči Križ) B-4, Mirje 19, tel. 241 43 00, rdeci.kriz@rks.si, www.rks.si.

Sonček H-1, Rožanska 2, tel. 534 06 67.

Zveza AIESEC Slovenija B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. 051 299 863, info@si.aiesec.org, www.aiesec.org/slovenia/.

Zveza prijateljev mladine Slovenije B/C-2, Miklošičeva 16, tel. 239 67 20, info@zpms.si, www.zpms.si.

Notaries

Košak ml. Miro B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. 244 25 00, tajnistvo@notar-kosak.si. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-16:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-17:00, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Nevenka Tory B-2, Beethovnova 14, tel. 242 96 80, nevenka.tory@siol.net. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-16:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-17:00, Fri 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate

Adamič-Lundrovo B/C-3 Ajdovščina B-2 Ambrožev trg D-3 Aškerčeva A-3/4, B-4 Avčinova C/D-1 Barjanska B-4, H2/3 Bavdkova F-1 Bazoviška F-1 Beethovnova B-2/3 Bernekerjeva E/F-1 Bezenškova E/F-1 Bogišičeva A-4 Bohoričeva D/E-2 Bolgarska D-1, E-1/2 Borštnikov trg A-3 Breg B-3/4 C. 27. Aprila A-3 Cankarjeva A/B-2 Cankarjevo B-3 Celovška G-1, H-1/2 Celovška cesta A/B-1, B-2 Cigaletova B/C-2 Cimpermanova C-4 Ciril-Metodov trg C-3 Čopova B-2/3 Črtomirova D-1 Čufarjeva C-2 Dalmatinova B/C-2 Dolenjska H/J-3 Društvena F-2 Dunajska B/C-1, H-1/2 Dvorakova B-2 Dvorni trg B-3 Eipprova B-4 Emonska B-4 Erjavčeva A/B-3 Finžgarjeva A-4 Frankopanska A/B-1 Gallusovo B-3/4 Gasparijeva E/F-2 Glonarjeva E-3 Gornji trg B/C-3, C-4 Gortanova F-3 Gosposka B-3/4 Gosposvetska B-2 Grablovičeva E-1/2, F-2/3

Gradaška A/B-4 Grajska planota C-3/4, D-4 Gregorčičeva A/B-3 Groharjeva A-4 Grudnovo nabrežje B-4 Gubčeva A-1 Hacquetova D-1 Hajdrihova A-4 Hradeckega D/E/F-4 Hrenova C-4 Hribarjevo B-3 Hrvatski trg D-2 Igriška A/B-3 Ilirska C/D-2 Ižanska C/D-4, H-3 Jakopičeva F-2/3 Jakopičevo sprehajališče A-1 Jamova A-4 Janežičeva C-4 Japljeva E-2 Jenkova D/E-2 Jurčičev trg B-3 Kajuhova J-2 Karlovška cesta C-4 Karunova B-4 Kavčičeva E/F-1 Kersnikova B-2 Klunova F-2 Knafljev prehod B-3 Koblarjeva E-2/3, F-3 Kolezijska A/B-4 Kolinska E-1 Kolodvorska C-2 Komenskega C-2 Kongresni trg B-3 Kopališka A-4 Kopitarjeva ulica C-3/4 Korytkova E-1/2 Kosovelova F-2/3 Koširjeva F-3 Kotnikova C-2 Krakovska B-4 Krakovski nasip B-4 Krekov trg C-3 Križevniška B-4 Kumanovska D-3

Langusova A-4 Lepi pot A-4 Levstikov trg B-4 Levstikova A-3 Likozarjeva B-1 Linhartova H/J-2 Lipičeva D/E-3 Litijska cesta F-3, J/K-2, K-3 Livarska B-1 Maistrova D-2 Majaronova E-1 Mala C-2 Malejeva F-2 Malenškova E-2 Malgajeva A-1 Mali trg C-2 Masarykova C-1, D-1/2 Medvedova A/B-1 Mencingerjeva A-4 Mesarska E-3 Mestni trg B-3 Metelkova D-2 Miklošičeva B/C-2 Mirje A/B-4 Močnikova E-2 Murnikova A-4 Nazorjeva B-2 Neubergerjeva D-1 Njegoševa cesta D-2 Novakova D-1 Novi trg B-3 Ob Ljubljanici E/F-2 Ob Zeleni jami E-1 Parmova B-1 Partizanska F-1/2 Perčeva F-1 Peternelova B-3 Petkovškovo nabrežje C-2 Pivovarniška B-1 Plečnikov trg B-3 Pleteršnikova B-1 Pod ježami E/F-1 Pogačerjev trg C-3 Pohlinova E/F-1 Pokopališka F-1 Poljanska C/D/E-3, H/J-2

Poljanski nasip C/D/E-3 Poljedelska F-1 Potočnikova E-3 Potrčeva E-2 Povšetova E-3, F-2/3 Praprotnikova C-4 Pražakova B/C-2 Prešernov trg B-3 Prešernova A-2/3 Prijateljeva C-4 Prisojna D-2 Privoz C-4 Proletarska c.

F-1/2 Prule C-4 Prvomajska F-2 Pugljeva F-2 Puharjeva B-2 Resljeva cesta C-2 Ribji trg B-3 Riharjeva A-4 Rimska A/B-3 Robbova C-1 Roška cesta D-3/4 Rozmanova D-2/3 Ruska A/B-1 Salendrova B-3 Sketova E-1/2 Slomškova C/D-2 Slovenska cesta B-2/3, H-2 Snežniška A-3/4 Središka E/F-1 Stari trg B-3 Streliška C-3, D-3/4 Strossmayerjeva C-3 Stritarjeva B-3 Šlajmerjeva E-2 Šmartinska E-1, J-1/2,K-1 Štefanova B-2 Štihova D-1 Šubičeva A/B-3 Tabor D-2 Tavčarjeva B/C-2 Teslova A-4 Tivolska cesta

A-2/3,B-1/2, H-2 Tomšičeva A/B-2

Topniška D-1 Tovarniška E/F-1 Trdinova B/C-2 Trg Fr. revolucije B-3 Trg mladinskih del. brigad A-3 Trg OF C-1 Trg Republike A/B-3 Trnovska B-4 Trnovski pristan B/C-4 Trubarjeva C/D-2 Tržaška A-3, H-2/3,G-3 Turnsko nabrežje F-3 Ul. G. Delčeva F-2/3 Ul. J. Husa F-2/3 Ul. St. Pravde C/D-4 Ul. Talcev C/D-4 Večna pot G/H-2 Vegova B-3 Veselova A-3 Vilharjeva cesta C/D-1, H/J-2 Vodmatska F-2 Vodnikov trg C-3 Vogelna B-4 Vošnjakova B-2 Vrazov trg D-3 Vrhovčeva D-2 Vrtača A-3 Vurnikova D-1 Wolfova B-3 Za gradom C/D-4 Zadobrovška K-1/2 Zaloška cesta D/E/F-2, J/K-2 Zarnikova D-3 Združna F-2 Zeljarska A-4 Zemljemerska D-3/4 Ziherlova B/C-4 Zoisova B-4 Zrinjskega C/D-4 Zvezna F-1 Zvonarska C-4 Žabjak B/C-4 Železna C-1 Žibertova A-1 Židovska B-3 Župančičeva B-2

Abc Nepremičnine B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. 300 00 00,

abc@abc.si, www.abc.si.

Agencia Zaloška 69, tel. 521 15 65, info@agencia.si, www.agencia.si. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.

Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel. 080 81 81, info@ljubljananepremicnine.si, www.ljubljananepremicnine.si.

Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. 200 49 54, fax 200 59 55, info@luster.si, www.luster.si.

Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. 300 73 70, Royal@Royal-nepremicnine.com, www.royal-nepremicnine.com.

Relocations

Relocations H-1, Vojkova 63, tel. 565 50 61, info@

sloveniarelo.com, www.sloveniarelo.com.

Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel. 565 69 50.

Vatovec C-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. 430 13 40, info@vatovec. si, www.vatovec.si.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Watch the action

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2009

93

98

Index 3 Muhe 79 56 7edma Lukna Adria Airways 12 AGIO rent a car 10 Air France 12 Al Capone 44 44 Allegria Allegro 30 Ambasada Gavioli 74 Ambient 36 Amnesty International 92 77 Antikvariat Antiq 30 Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator (BTC Center) 28 Argentino 40 40 As Asdom Apartments 36 Atet 10 Atlantis Water Park 28 Atrium 42, 53 90 Australia Austria 90 Austrian Airlines 12 Austria Trend 30 AutoRent 10 10 Avant Avantura 13 Azur 44 Babit 87 Bachus Center 42 49 Bachus Lounge Bangkok Street 37 Bar Gaj 53 Bazilika Shop & Cafe 49 Belvedere 73 Besenghi degli Ughi Palace 74 Best Western Hotel Kompas 69 Best Western Premier Slon 30 Bi-Ko-Fe 53 49 Bife Jež Biljardna Hiša 56 Biosfera 28 Bit Center Hotel 28 Bled Castle 72 69 Bled Tourist Office Botanical Gardens 68 Boutique Lacoste 79 Breskvar Tennis Academy 28 Brewery Museum 66 12 Brussels Airlines BTC City 82 BTC Market 81 Budget Rent a Car 10 Bus station 9 79 Butik La Vision Cacao 49 Café Alle Porte 73 Café Antico 49 Cafe Galerija 53 49 Café Gaudi Café Plato 49 Café Romeo 42 Cafetino 50 Caffe Ljubljana 50 90 Canada (consulate) Cankarjev dom 26 Cantante Caffe 74 Cantina Mexicana 45 Carrent 10 53 Casablanca Casino Bled 72 Casino Kongo 56 Casino Lev 56 Cathedral 62 34 Celica Central 30 Central Market 81 Cesarsko Mesto 37 Čevljarski Most 62 53 Cezar Bar Čez Cesto 50 Cha 50 China Fast Food 37 Church of St Mary of 74 Halieatum City 30 Citypark 82 City Theatre 26

monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf 18.3.2009 0:47:20

Club OZ2 56 CN7 50 Coffe Project 50 Collegium 13 Čolnarna 50 53 Compañeros Café Conestoga 53 Contemporary History Museum 66 Corso Bar 50 42 Cubo Culture 92 Čupiterija 42, 53 Cutty Sark 58 Cvetličarna Mediapark 26 12 Czech Airlines Czech Republic 90 Da bu da 37 Delfin 73 Devil Bar Caffe 72 68 Digital Tour Guide Dolce & Gabbana Outlet 79 Dvor Jezeršek 34 Dvorni Bar 59 Emonska klet 56 59 Enoteca En Pub 58 Escape 60 ESITI 25 Europcar 10 64 Evangelical Church Eventim 25 Exhibition and Convention Centre 26 Favola 44 85 FedEx Femiks 87 Festivalna Dvorana 26 Fétiche 54 Fit&Fun Center 28 79 Flat Foculus 45 Foto Tivoli 81 Fresco 39 Gajo Jazz Club 58 26 Ganes Pratt Goethe-Institut 26 Golf klub barje 28 Golf Trnovo 28 Gostilna, Pizzeria & Brewery 71 Gala In Gostilna Avsenik 71 Gostilna Korte 74 Gostilna Kovač 46 Gostilna Krpan 40 46 Gostilna Lovec Gradiant 28 Grajska Kavarna 50 Grand Casino Ljubljana 56 Grand Hotel Toplice 69 Grand Hotel Union 29 Business Grand Hotel Union Executive 29 Guinness Pub 58 61 Gymnisivm Sauna H & M 79 Hala Tivoli 26 Hard Core Cafe 60 Hertz 12 66 Hiša Eksperimentov Holy Trinity Church 64 Hot Horse 39 Imperio Mexicano 45 InBox 56 26 Institut Français Instituto Cervantes 26 International Centre of Graphic Arts 66 Intersport 82 12 JAT Airways Jež 39 Joe Peña's 45 Juliana 71 Julija 42 42 Jurman Kamera Klub 54 Kantina Peperončin 39 Kava Bar Kino Komuna 51 KavaČaj Slamič 50

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Kavalino 44 Kavarna Tromostovje 51 Kavarna Union 26 Kažipot 13 Kino Dvor 26 26 Kinoklub Vič Kino Otok 74 79 Kipling Store Kitajska Zvezda 37 Klub 12 58 28, 57 Klub300 Klub K4 57, 61 Klub Slon 60 Klub SubSub 57 KMŠ 57 Knjižnica Otona Župančiča 87 Kolovrateater 54 Kompas 13 Konex center 28 Kongo Hotel & Casino 30 39 Konkurenca Koželj 80 Kraljev Hrib 28 Kresnička 51 Križanke Open Air Theatre 26 85 Kurirček Lake Bled 72 Lan 51 La Perla Studio 80 Lar's Bar 54 44 La Storia Latino Nightclub 60 Laura 77 Le Coq Blanc 40 Lectar Inn 70 71 Lectar Inn Restaurant Le Petit Café 51 Lev 29 Lili in Roza 80 Ljubljana airport 12 62 Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Nepremičnine 92 Ljubljana Night & Day 68 Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the Railway 25 Station Ljubljana Zoo 68 Ljubljanski Dvor 42 LPP 9 Lufthansa 12 Luka Gourmet Café & Restaurant Evropa 42 Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe 43 Luster 92 Maček 51 82 Made in Slovenia Madeira 43 Malév 12 Malina 51 Mandarina Duck 80 51 Mandolat Manna 43 Manzioli Palace 74 Marella 80 Marina Rinaldi 80 82 Marina Yachting Massage Corner 87 Maxim 43 Maximal 59 Max Mara 80 39 McDonald's Medieval Mint 68 Mediterraneo 74 Medno 32 Melvita 79 46 Mencigar Nobile Mercator 81 Mercator Center Ljubljana 82 Mestna galerija 1 26 Mestna optika 87 63 Mestni Trg Metelkova Mesto 26 Metropol 51 Metro Taxi 12 M hotel 30 77 Mladinska Knjiga Moby Dick Bar 74 Model Ship Museum 74 Mondial Travel 13 Mons 30

Mons Jazz Club 58 Most 43 Movia 59 Na Balanci 54 Namasté 40 National Drama Theatre 26 National Gallery 66 66 National Museum Natural History Museum 68 Nebotičnik 62 38 Nobel Burek Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek 51 Oliviers&Co 81 Opera Bar 54 Operna Klet 40 34 Orka Orthodox Church 64 Orto Bar 57 Out in Slovenia 61 Oxford Center 77 40 Paninoteka Parangal 74 Park 32, 34 Park Hotel Bled 69 Parlament Pub 58 45 Parma Pasta Nona 45 Patrick's Irish Pub 59 Peko 80 Philharmonic 26 58 Piano Bar Piazza 45 Piranske soline 82 Pizzeria Gallus 71 Pizzeria Odeon 74 46 Pizzeria Osmica Pizzeria Rustika 71 Pizzicato 47 Playa 54 Plečnik House 68 90 Poland Polna Skleda 43 Portal 38 Postojna Cave 65 Pr' potic 47 54 Pr' Skelet Pri Jovotu 38 Primus Group 90 Pri Semaforju 51 Pri Vitezu 43 47 Pri Vodniku Pri zelenem zajcu 54 Protocol 12 Pub Bled 72 Puppet Theatre 26 64 Puppet Theatre Clock Q Cultural Centre 61 Randevu 51 Rašica 80 Red Shop 81 13 Relax Relocations 92 Restaurant 2000 39 Ribno 70 Rikli Restaurant & Pizzeria 71 38, 47 Rio-Momo River House 43 Robbov Vodnjak 64 Robert Mapplethorpe Exhibition 61 54 Rollbar Rooms4Young 34 Roundabout 13 Roxly 55 Rumeni Taxi 12 37 Running Sushi & Wok Ruska Pravljica 46 Salon 55 San Martino 45 Sauna Zlati Klub 61 38 Sax House Sax Pub 58 SEM Kavarna 52 Shambala 37 Sixt 12 28 SKOK ŠPORT d.o.o.

Skriti Kot 43 Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku 52 Slast 38 Slon 43

Slon Lounge 55 Slovenia for Gay Travellers 61 Slovenian National Opera 26 & Ballet Theatre Slovenian Tourist Information Center 64 Smrekarjev Hram 44 36 Sobe Jana Sofra 38 Sokol 47 Sokol Tivoli Fitness center 28 Sončni studio body line 87 C Špajza 48 Spar 81 Sputnik M 55 72 St. Martin's Church Stara Mačka 55 Y Stara Šola Korte 73 Stari Tišler 47, 32 STA Travel Cafe CM 52 82 STIC Stiefelkönig 80 MY St Maurus Church 74 Studio Hosiery 80 Supernova CY 82 37 Sushimama Tanga 60 CMY Tao 13 Tartuf 45 Taverna Tatjana K 40 88 Tax-Fin-Lex Taxi Društvo Ljubljana 12 Taxi Intertours 12 Taxi Laguna 12 TeatroKlub 57 12 Technoplus Thai Inn Pub 38 That'Slovenia 82 Thrifty 12 Tine Express 85 63 Tivoli Park Tobacco Museum 68 Tomato 40 Tombstone Saloon 55 Top: Eat & Party 52, 57 36 Tour AS Tourist information 73 Tourist Information Centre 25, 82 Tourist Train 68 9 Train Station 57 Tramontana Tramvaj Ekspres Pizzeria 46 Traveller's Haven 70 82 Trgovina Ika Trnovski Zvon 46 62 Tromostovje Trubadur 52 Turkish Airlines 12 85 Tušmobil UK 92 92 Ukraine Ultra 57 Unicredit Banka Slovenija 88 70 Union Union Garden 44 85 UPS Intereuropa Valvasor 48 Vegedrom 48 65 Velika Planina Venera Shop 81 71 Vila Bled Restaurant Vila Prešeren 72 Vila Veselova 34 Villa Prešeren 70 Vodafone Simobil 85 Vodnikov Hram 48 William's Pub 59 Wine Cellars of Slovenia 59 Youth Hostel Bledec 71 Žak 40 Žale Cemetery 62 Zara 80 Zeppelin 34 Zhong Hua 38 Zlata Ladjica 55 Zlata Ribica 44 Zlati Most 38 Zmajski Most 63 Zvezda 52

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

JUNIJ 2008

N1 1B 1S

21

25

LPP MAP OF BUS ROUTES LJUBLJANA CITY PUBLIC TRANSPORT

6B

14 14B

SHEMA LINIJ LPP MESTNI JAVNI LINIJSKI PREVOZ

21

Brod

Zapelji se na www.lpp.si

20Z

11B N11

7L

11B

27K

Navje

25

N11 27K

N1 N3 N5

Pod Kamno Gorico

7L 27

23

Dalmatinova

Zmajski most

N5

Zmajski most Krekov trg

23 Gornji trg

14B

Kolezija

Bokalce 1B 1S

Nedeljski sejem Dolgi most Rotar Na Gmajnici Pri Poku

Orlova

20Z

Switch to Si.mobil Vodafone partner in Slovenia

Be part of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest mobile community.

www.simobil.si

Si.mobil d.d. | Ĺ martinska cesta 134b | SI-1000 Ljubljana | 080 40 40 40