Maribor In Your Pocket by Niko Slavnic

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Maribor Summer - Autumn 2009

Festival Lent

One of Europe’s largest arts and music events

Oenophiles rejoice!

Wine bars, vineyards and cellars abound

Pohorje

Escape the summer heat at this lush mountain retreat

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

N°1 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Basics

Arriving in Maribor

Getting around

History

Language

Quick Picks

Culture & Events

The lowdown on what’s happening

Where to stay

Maribor bridge

Restaurants

26 30

Coffee, cakes and conversation

Nightlife The wine doth floweth

Shopping

Medieval markets to modern malls

Vegetarians beware

Cafés

What to see Churches, towers and a 400 year old vine

Five-star luxury to Spartan hostel beds

Directory

Maps & Index City centre map City map Country map Index Street Register

47 48 49 50 50

Cover story Festival Lent is Slovenia’s premier music and arts event, attracting over 600,000 visitors - equivalent to nearly a third of the country’s population - to Maribor’s old town on the banks of the River Drava every June. This will be the festival’s 15th year, with an expected 400 per formers from 34 countries taking to 30 stages. Aside from music, dance and theatre performances, the festivities also include children’s workshops, mimes, magicians, acrobats and of course fireworks. See page 16 for more details Sombre reminder of WWII and TV’s Kojak

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Summer - Autumn 2009

Foreword

foreword

While recent years have brought a significant influx of tourists to Slovenia, most foreign visitors don’t venture far beyond fairytale Ljubljana or picturesque Bled. But ask any Slovene not from Ljubljana which city they prefer, and invariably the answer will be Maribor. Not only is its name infinitely more pronounceable than the capital’s (seriously, not even Slovenes can agree on how Ljubljana should be pronounced), but more importantly it exemplifies everything that is wonderful about the country as a whole: genuinely warm and friendly people, a laid-back atmosphere and leisurely pace of life, rich history and tradition and, not least, an insatiable love of wine. As Maribor’s most famous librarian (and part-time poet) Janko Glazer once elegantly put it: “Where is there a town like ours? From all directions wine is pouring into our glasses!” Where indeed. Here at In Your Pocket we feel it’s time to do our part to encourage the inevitable exploitation of Slovenia’s unfairly overlooked second city. Three quarters of a millennia as transport hub, economic centre and important regional capital has left Maribor brimming with vestiges of its past glory, just waiting to be trod under foot by hoards of camera-toting tourists. Aside from prime sightseeing weather, the warmer months also bring an onslaught of festivals, including the renowned Festival Lent (see below), and transform the nearby Pohorje mountains into a hiking, biking and horseback riding paradise (p 39). Great people, great sights, great events and great wine - this is the perfect time to experience this great city before it assumes its rightful place on the tourist map. We hope this inaugural issue of our Maribor guide comes in handy while you do so, and don’t forget to check the site (www.inyourpocket.com) for all the latest news and information

maribor.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Maribor In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 604 +386 30 316 608 maribor@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-6140 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana Published 20 000 copies.

Europe In Your Pocket

Press Box

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” New York Times

In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full, since 1995, and our company has continually been at the cutting edge of internet development. The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides (back in 2002) you can now download our entire range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than 20,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while the site as a whole regularly attracts more than 250,000 visitors per month.

In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced travel guides, producing almost four million guides per year. With print guides to more than 50 cities across the continent, travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name: they trust our content and our flawless levels of accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to its founding aim of covering the world with well researched and well written city guides. This year we have already launched a new guide to Odesa, and will be launching new guides in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think that you can contribute, and think you have what it takes to publish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Editors Yuri Barron, Irena Jamnikar Research Colin Graham, Richard Schofield,Tanja Franko, Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Maribor Tourist Board, Narodni dom Maribor Cover photo Festival Lent- Ognjemet, Narodni dom Maribor Sales & Circulation Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Sales & Operations Management Blaž Stoger tel. 040 678 717

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright WIYP 1999/2009. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Maribor In Your Pocket

On inyourpocket.com

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Getting involved A year or so ago In Your Pocket took the interactive plunge and began allowing readers to post comments under our own reviews. The response has been incredible, nowhere more so than in Riga, where the famous rip-off joint Lord Pub has garnered so many comments from angry readers that at one stage earlier this year our system couldn’t cope: we had to reconfigure it to accommodate all the feedback. All of our venues - and most of our features - are now open forums ready for your comments. If you have something to say on Warsaw’s raunchiest nightlife venues, say it at inyourpocket.com. If you want to flaunt your Cornish nationalist credentials, do it at inyourpocket.com. Our local editors are encouraged to reply to comments and make a point of taking on board what our readers are telling us. While we vet all comments before publication, if you provide a valid email address we usually approve the vast majority, no matter how vitriolic or controversial. So if you’ve been ripped off, or simply enjoyed terrific service, let everyone know. If you want to contact us direct, you can do so at readersmail@ inyourpocket.com. Online exclusives The number of pages in our print guides is limited... our website has no such boundaries. As such we are able to publish huge amounts of original content that would otherwise not make it into the public domain. Visit inyourpocket.com and check out our features on famous locals, scams, upcoming concerts and exhibitions, as well as making full use of our Business and Lifestyle Directories: often the most up-to-date and reliable directories in your city, in any language. maribor.inyourpocket.com

“Tops for Central and Eastern Europe. Back in 1991 during a long night of drinking, four guys living in Vilnius came up with the idea to create an online city guide for the Lithuanian capital, which at the time had no telephone directory. The result? This online collection of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides to more than 50 cities across the region, from Derry to Tartu. For most cities, content runs deep: there are more than 30 restaurants and 11 clubs listed under Brasov, for example. Plus, news, maps and blogs. You can even tune into a local radio station. Browse around the site for interesting finds, such as a Prague hotel that was formerly a theater and still retains original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.” Forbes.com

“Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversifying. Print off your own PDFs…” The Times, April 18, 2008 (In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet scandal).

“In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are impressively up to date and clearly written by people who live in the city. Invaluable” The Sun Herald (Australia)

“Inyourpocket.com was the first online travel guide to come up with the idea of offering free downloadable city guides in printable (PDF) format.” The Guardian

“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-offact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times

“Practical and honest. It‘s like having a friend and an advisor all in one.“ La Repubblica

Summer - Autumn 2009

Arriving

Maribor is the main transport hub for the eastern half of Slovenia, and as such is well-connected by public transport to the rest of country, in addition to Austria, Hungary and Croatia. The main bus and train stations are only a couple hundred metres apart on the eastern edge of the city centre, and well within walking distance of most centrally-located hotels, however, there should be taxis waiting out front if you don’t feel like dragging your luggage through an unfamiliar city.

By Bus The main bus station is either an architectural icon or eyesore depending on one’s taste, but either way, it’s centrally located and has a range of facilities from information and lockers to restaurants and a casino. The city is fairly wellcovered by local buses with tickets costing €1.10/2.75 for single rides/day passes and can be purchased from drivers.

Bus Station C-4, Mlinska 1, tel. 252 50 61/080 11 16.

Getting around If Things Go Wrong The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue and ambulance, and 113 for police. I f possible, find someone who speaks Slovene to help you make the call since there is no guarantee of finding an English speaker on the other end. The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to the city centre can be found at the University Medical Centre at Ljubljanska 5, (E-3). Emergency treatment is free for members of EU, EEA and Switzerland. We also list local pharmacies, dentists and other services in the directory. If you find yourself in trouble with the police, call your embassy immediately. Useful Emergency Words: NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital

Veolia Transport Štajerska d.d. K Tamu 7, tel. 080 11 16, www.connex.si.

By Plane Maribor’s tiny airport does not currently have any scheduled flights, so unless you’ll be arriving on a charter flight or your own jet, your best bets are the airports in Ljubljana and Graz (Austria), which are both well-connected to the rest of Europe and near enough to Maribor (100km and 60km respectively) to serve as viable points of arrival.

By Train Although the train station has quite a bit of traffic coming and going in all directions, it doesn’t have much in the way of facilities. If you’re in need of anything other than a toilette or a quick drink, you’ll have much more luck at the nearby bus station.

Tourism information Tourist Information Centre Maribor - TIC Maribor C-3, Partizanska 6a, tel. 23 46 611, fax

23 46 613, tic@maribor.si, www.maribor-pohorje. si. Guided city tour by city train »Jurček« Prices: €8 (guided tour ride), €2 (only ride). Meeting point: Tourist Information Centre Maribor, Partizanska 6a (by the Franciscan church). More information: +386 (0)2 22 90 942 Maribor in Two Hours - walking guided city tour for groups in different languages Duration: 120 minutes. tic@maribor.si QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Car rental

Taxis

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

Amzs - Hertz PE Maribor K-3, Zagrebska 25, tel. 333 88 92, www.amzs.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00, Sat 08:00 - 12.00. Closed Sun. 45€/day. Avis rent-a-car C-4, Partizanska 24, tel. 228 79 10, mbx@avis-alpe.si, www.avis-alpe.si. Q Open 08:00 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. 58€/day. Europcar D-3, Titova 2a, tel. 228 26 31, fax 234 69 63, reservations@europcar.si, www.europcar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Maribor rent a car J-3, Jadranska 27, tel. 041 680 940, info@rentacar-maribor.com, www.rentacar-maribor. Time out Loška ul. 13, tel. 041 634 653, contoform@ siol.net. Q Open Non stop on number 041 634 653. 20€/day.

National bus schedule From Maribor

Arr. 09:49 07:27 10:03 12:02 10:38 12:52

06:00 07:00

08:29 08:21

11:35 07:35 07:35 07:35

13:59 13:32 11:54 12:06

To Maribor

City Dep. BLED 07:30 CELJE 06:15 JESENICE 06:25 KOPER 14:38 KRAJN 04:55 KRANJSKA 07:20 GORA LJUBLJANA 11:35 MURSKA 08:35 SOBOTA MARIBOR 06:52 NOVA GORICA 08:30 NOVO MESTO 06:34 POSTOJNA 09:50

All buses depart daily.

Maribor’s vertigo inducing bus station

Maribor In Your Pocket

Dep. 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:52 06:52 06:52

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Arr. 13:59 07:41 13:59 20:14 05:33 13:59 13:59 09:56 09:53 13:59 13:59 13:59

Mikro Taxi Tel. 42 15 888. Taxi Mat d.o.o. Perhavceva 13, tel. 22 77, taxi.mat@ siol.net.

Taxi Plan J-3, Ljubljanska 140, tel. 080 17 20/040 971 970, taxiplan@mail386.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Taxi Plus Hrastje 14d, tel. 080 11 12, taxi.plus@siol. net, www.taxi-plus.com. XXL Taxi Tel. 031 801 339.

Travel agents

Agencija Grad C-3, Trg svobode 2, tel. 22 98 540, fax 229 85 45, pirc@ta-grad-mp.si. QOpen 8.00 - 17.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Globus C-3, Vita Kraigherja 9, tel. 250 18 53, fax 629 60 71, globus@globus.si, www.globus.si. Kompas C-3, Titova 2/a, tel. 23 46 950, maribor@ kompas.si, www.kompas.si. QOpen 08.30 - 18.00, Sat 08.30 - 12.00. Closed Sun. Relax C-3, Partizanska 12, tel. 234 21 50, fax 234 21 52, renata.perko@relax.si, www.relax.si. QOpen Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 9:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Sonček Glavni trg 17, tel. 22 08 022, glavnitrg@occasio.si. QOpen 9.00 - 19.00. Closed Sat, Sun.

maribor.inyourpocket.com

International train schedule From Maribor

Dep. 06:20 12:22 06:20 10:22 06:20 10:22 14:22

Arr. 07:23 13:23 15:01 20:01 10:05 14:05 18:05

To Maribor

City GRAZ GRAZ PRAGUE PRAGUE VIENNA VIENNA VIENNA

Dep. 06:34 12:36 05:57 10:57 05:56 09:56 13:56

Arr. 07:38 13:38 15:38 19:38 09:38 13:38 17:38

All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December 12, 2009

Summer - Autumn 2009

Basics

Disabled travellers Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled. Information is available from the NSIOS, tel. 430 36 46, www.nsios.si.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Electricity Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.

Language Slovenian is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and shares many words with other Slavic languages. Many Slovenes also speak English, Italian, or German embarassingly well.

Money Slovenia temporarily swapped the Yugoslav dinar for the tolar in 1991, and adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.

Basics A word from our Mayor

Major Currency Cross Rates

As mayor of the university, sports, tourist and cultural city I am honoured to welcome all the visitors and tourists to Maribor, a small but b ea u ti fu l c i t y with kindhearted people and over wh elmin g n a tu re. R e s i dents of Maribor are extremely proud of the oldest grapevine in the world which has been growing on the riverside of Drava for more than four centuries and is registered in the Guinness Book of Records. The oldest part of our city, called Lent, is very attractive to the majority of our visitors, especially during Festival Lent which is one of Europe’s more notable summer festivals. In winter Maribor, with its hill Pohorje, is a popular destination for skiers and snowboarders from all over the world. Furthermore, in January the slopes of Pohorje become the scene of a Women’s Ski World Cup race named the Golden Fox which is a notable and important sport event. As the mayor I am extremely proud that Maribor was confirmed as the European Capital of Culture 2012 and I am certain that in the year 2012 Maribor will be a cultural star in the European sky. I wish all the visitors and tourists a pleasant and unforgettable stay in Maribor and invite you to visit us again in the near future.

Currency

Mayor of the City Municipality of Maribor, Franc Kangler

Religion

Product Price (€) McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Snickers €0.59 0.5ltr vodka (shop) €13.85 0.5ltr of local beer(shop) €0.99 Loaf of white bread €2.74 20 Marlboros €2.80 Public transport ticket €1.10 Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures €4.09

Basic data Population Slovenia 2,019,406 (2007) Maribor 114,349 Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83% Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3% Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 2.8%

Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr)

Visas Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Swiss Franc 1.09 1.49 1.65 -

Prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices.

Smoking

It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10% for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.

U.K. £ 0.65 0.89 0.58

Market values

Official languages Slovenian Italian Hungarian

Tipping

Maribor In Your Pocket

Euro € 0.73 1.10 0.66

Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest of them believing in ‘something’.

Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Lent

U.S. $ 1. U.S. $ 1. Euro € 1.35 1. U.K. £ 1.49 1. Swiss Franc 0.89

Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia)

Stain glass commemorating the Pope’s visit

Vinjeta - A (new) Ticket to ride As of June 2008, Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. A yearly/ half-yearly sticker is €55/35 for cars and €27.50/17.50 for motorcycles. From July 2009 both monthly and weekly vinjeta will be available, but at the time of publishing prices had not yet been confirmed. For more info check www.dars.si

Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Street smarts

Borders Austria 318km Italy 280km Hungary 102km Croatia 670km

Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in conversation, so while your destination may officially be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying Poljanska

www.inyourpocket.com maribor.inyourpocket.com

Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street

Summer - Autumn 2009

history The area of present-day Maribor was settled as far back as the Stone Age and has served as an important crossroads between Eastern and Western Europe and the Balkans since antiquity. Middles Ages The Romans left the area largely untouched and it was not until the Middle Ages that a proper town developed. After the construction of a castle on Pirimida Hill in 1164, a settlement began to grow along the river below and soon turned into a thriving market community, which officially become a town, called ‘Markburg’, in 1254 (the Slovene name, Maribor, did not appear until 1836). In the decade that followed, a long wall and series of defence towers were built around the town in order to protect against invasion - several of these impressive towers can still be seen today. Habsburgs come to town After the Habsburgs acquired the surrounding region of Carinthia in 1335, wine commerce began to expand and Maribor achieved economic prominence for the first time. During this period the town also became home to a large and prosperous Jewish community, whose expulsion in 1497 marked the beginning of what would prove to be a rather tumultuous three hundred years. Bleak times Between the 16th and 18th centuries, competition from foreign merchants, numerous fires, multiple sieges at the hands of the Hungarians and Ottomans, the so-called “wine wars” with neighbouring Ptuj and a healthy dose of the plague all took their toll on the city - although the latter also led to the commissionn of modern Maribor’s finest monument, the Plague Column in Glavni Trg. Industrial Revolution During the 18th century the town’s fortune began to turn around after the state took control of various craftsmen guilds, reorganised the system of duty and improved roads. But it was the construction of a railway line from the seat of the empire in Vienna to the port of Trieste on the Adriatic, that led to an major industrial boom a century later. Aftermath of World War I The aftermath of the First World War brought significant

Language political changes to what had become an important industrial centre. After nearly a half century of Habsburg rule, Slovenia opted to join the Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs while the German-controlled municipal council of Maribor elected to join Austria. Some brief fighting ensued, which ended with Major Rudolf Maister taking control of the city. Shortly after, the municipal council was dissolved and Styria region was officially incorporated into Slovenia in 1919. World War II Maribor, along with the rest of Yugoslav Styria, was annexed by the Nazis in April 1941, who immediately set about expelling non-Germans - a policy overseen by the Füher himself on a visit to the city shortly after it was seized. Over the course of the war air raids from both sides demolished or heavily damaged nearly half the city’s buildings. On 9 May 1945 units of Bulgarians, the Red Army and Slovene partisans succeeded in liberating the city. Post-war reconstruction Following the war, larger firms were nationalised and the labour force was reorganised. As a result industrial output soon surpassed its pre-war levels. Maribor benefited significantly from its skilled workforce and proximity to Austria and Italy, becoming one of the biggest industrial centres of Yugoslavia. Independence Maribor faced another difficult period after Slovenian independence in 1991. The loss of the Yugoslav market and changing global trends led to a collapse of heavy industry, which had employed nearly two-fifths of the city’s residents, and unemployment rose to a staggering 25%. However, over the last ten to fifteen years the economy has recovered with a new focus on small and medium sized businesses, and increasingly tourism. The 21st century Slovenia entered the European Union in 2004, and adopted the Euro in 2007. It joined the Schengen area the same year, which essentially removed the borders between neighbouring EU states and made travelling to nearby Austria easier than ever. Maribor was recently named as one of the EU’s Capitals of Culture for 2012, and will host the Winter Universiade (or World University Games) the following year.

Special Pronunciations c – as in pizza e – as in egg g – as in go j – like y in yogurt č – as in cello š – as in ship ž – as in pleasure Basics Do you speak English? – Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I don’t understand – Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning – Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day – Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night – Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes – Ja (Yah) No – Ne (Nay) Hello – Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... – Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Monday – Ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday – Torek (TOR-ek) Wednesday – Sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday – Četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday – Petek (peh-tuck) Saturday- Sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Sunday- Nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Who? – Kdo?(K-doh) What? – Kaj?(Ky) Where? –Kje ? (Key-yay) When? – Kdaj (K-dy) How much does it cost? Koliko stane (KOH-LEE-KOH STAH-NEH)? Places Croatia – Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka) England –Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah) Germany – Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Hungary – Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah) Ireland – Irska (Ear-skah) Netherlands- Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah) Scotland – Škotska (Shkot-skah) Venice – Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Vienna – Dunaj (Doo-nigh) Post One foreign stamp, please - Eno znamko za tujino, prosim (Eh-no z-nahm-koh zah too-YEE-noh pro- SEEM) For postcard – Za razglednico (Zah raz-GLEHD-neet-so) For letter – Za pismo (Zah pees-moh) Signs Open - Odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - Zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance – Vhod (oo-hod) Exit- Izhod (eez-hod) Push – Rini (ree-nee) Pull – Vleci (oo-LETS-ee) Travelling Bus – Avtobus (OW-toh-booze) Train – Vlak (v-LOCK) I am looking for.... – Iščem (EESH-chem) ... One ticket, please – Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)

University of Maribor

Maribor In Your Pocket

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Contemporary sculpture Times Now – zdaj (z-day) Later – kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Today – danes (dahn-es) Tomorrow – jutri (yoo-tree) Yesterday – včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the morning- zjutraj (z-YOO-try) In the afternoon- popoldne (poh-POLD-neh) In the evening- zvečer (z-veh-chehr) At night – ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) Restaurant Talk Menu, please – Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM) Bill, please – Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM) Do you have vegetarian food? – Imate vegetarijansko hrano (EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rah-noh)? Bar Talk One coffee, please – Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh pro-SEEM) One beer, please – (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM) Cheers! – Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! You have beautiful eyes – Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee) Can I have your number? Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko shteh-VEEL-koh)?

Summer - Autumn 2009

quick picks

Maribor Distilled Eat

Drink

Sleep

Like A Local

Remotely-situated among meadows and forests halfway up a mountain, Veronika (p 28) has made every effort to evolve its menu from traditional to more contemporary tastes, without losing the essential substance of the former. It also has a selection of game meats, so it’s the place to come if you’ve been dying to try some wild boar. Requires a bit of an effort to get there, but the views on the drive up are worth the trip.

Mariborska Kavarna (p 30) Has the look, feel and smell of the stereotypical central cafés that can be found on the main squares of small towns throughout Europe, which is exactly what this place was once upon a time. Picture copious amounts of wood panelling, textured yellow walls, hideous cutains and tables full of old men excitedly discussing whatever it is that tables full of old men excitedly discuss and you’ll know exactly what we’re talking about.

Like A Local

Motel Pri Lešniku (p 23) The word ‘motel’ it uses to describe itself might be a bit misleading if you have watched any Hollywood road movies, particularly as the place is 100 years old and located on the outskirts of the city. Recent renovations not only involved a general sprucing up, but also the addition of some less common perks, including a Finnish sauna, jacuzzi and even a miniature golf course. As with others of the Slovenian inn type, there’s a vast amount of space in the dining area, where you’ll be served all the hospitality, meat dishes and lavish desserts you’ll ever need.

The small sloping Vodnikov Square is a strange combination of tradition and modernity. While recent renovations have added a large underground parking garage and a canopy of bizarre-looking inverted umbrellas, it’s also home to Maribor’s central market, or Mariborska Tržnica (p 42), where farmers from the countryside still come to peddle their fruits, vegetables, flowers and handicrafts each and every day. Even if you’re not looking to buy anything it’s worth a visit on purely aesthetic grounds.

On the Cheap

McDonald’s (p 27) For better or worse you know exactly what you’re getting with the old golden arches. This one is right in the heart of the old town, but with three other locations spread about the city there should be ample opportunity to abuse your arteries without having to walk too far. It’s not as cheap as in some Eastern European countries, but it does seem like the prices have got relatively less expensive since Slovenia switched to the euro a few years ago.

Conveniently located next to blocks of dormitories, there’s no better place to observe hard-drinking Slovene students in their natural environment than at ŠTUK (p 32). Inside, the gaudy red and yellow paint job may have you feeling a bit queasy before you even start imbibing, but this is a place you come to for dirt cheap drinks and all night parties, not subtle ambiance. A steady stream of Yugo and international pop is given a respite every Thursday, when the DJ spins some more chilled out beats, and there’s also a proper concert venue in the back that frequently plays host to popular regional acts and even the odd comedian.

On the Cheap

ALIBI C2 (p 23) Occupying the top three floors of a beautifully renovated old villa, this new addition to the Alibi hostel chain has been around for less than a year and still has that never-been-lived-in feel to it. It also has a lot of the little things that make hostels more tolerable, like lockers, free internet and super comfortable beds. During the academic year the lower floors are rented out to visiting Erasmus students, so even if you’re the only guest, as we were back in May, you still should be able to find someone to hit the town with.

City Park (p 35) This immaculately-kept park just north of the city centre is definitely one of Maribor’s best features. With its three ponds teeming with many different species of bird and a terrapin or two in amongst them - who started life in the nearby and popular aquarium - and highly sociable squirrels up and around the trees, there is much to keep nature lovers occupied but this is also the city’s best place to relax. On Sundays you might catch a classical music concert held in the pavilion right smack in the middle of the park.

With The Family

Mlada Lipa (p 29) Pohorje-based pizzeria with gaming room and coffeehouse extras latched on, this place offers a more 21st century, if lower-grade, alternative to the more traditional inn-type establishments which dominate the area. Provides a large outdoor children’s play area as well to let the little ones gambol and frolic while you sip your coffee.

Cof feehouse Astoria Vast historical cafe that dominates the city’s Castle Square. Used to attract Maribor’s noted intellectuals and artists but now pulls in the student set - a little further down the food chain, you could say. Plenty of outside seating and a children’s play area make it the perfect place to stop for break during the afternoon. A separate stall sells ice-cream during the warmer months, which not an unusual feature in these parts.

With The Family

Apartment Jurič (p 23) If you’d like to stay near the action, but want to have a little more privacy than can be found at the hotels lining the main drag leading up to Pohorje, these cosy apartments definitely fit the bill. On a quiet residential street only a few minutes walk from the cable cars at the base of the mountain, they can sleep up to four people as long as two of you don’t mind crashing on a pull-out sofa in the living room. As an added bonus you get free access to the pool complex in Bolfenk and discounts on many other activities.

Botanical Garden (p 35) Situated in the midst of the Pohorje mountain range, the botanical delights on view are from other parts of the globe as well as Slovenia. You can book a guided tour in advance or just stroll through the garden at your leisure. Either way there is a huge amount to enjoy from such far-flung regions such as Asia, Africa and Australia. Exotic though they may seem, they are also the bread and butter of the research institute which looks after them. If all that natural diversity amounts to an information overload then you can always take a break in the garden’s café.

Over The Top

Rožmarin (p 28) The owners of Maribor’s trendiest restaurant definitely know what they’re doing. From the lighting to the service to the food this place exudes a cosmopolitan ambiance that you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the country. Of course all that style doesn’t come cheap. Although some à la carte dishes will set you back less than €10, the often changing multi-course menus can cost up to four times that - or six if you opt to have a matching wine for every dish - and require advanced booking. Highly recommended if you feeling like splurging or are in town with a company credit card.

Stand Up (p 32) One of Maribor’s more popular night spots, you’re guaranteed to find it completely packed on any given Friday or Saturday night, when a hip young crowd comes to dance to pulsating balkan beats and admire the whole scene reflected in what must be one of the largest faux-antique mirrors we’ve ever seen. Famous singers and other celebrities are known to drop by, and true to its name it also hosts the odd comedy night. Even if turbo folk isn’t well-represented on your iPod, that’s no excuse for not at least trying to get in here - after all, when in Rome....

Over The Top

Arguably a tourist attraction in its own right as well as a place to stay, the Habakuk (p 21) is a huge hotel located at the foot of the Pohorje mountains and is a natural source of accommodation for the thousands of skiers who flock to the area during winter. But its Spa and Wellness Centre is also a crowd-puller and is one reason why during the offseason, i.e. summer, you’ll see lots of young men wearing tracksuits wandering around. Most of these will be footballers from either Croatia or Serbia and the Habakuk is their destination-of-choice for preseason training.

If the views from the top of Pohorje aren’t quite high enough for your tastes, there’s always the option of hopping into a hot air balloon (p 38) and seeing if another few thousand metres do the trick. Of course where exactly you drift off to depends largely on the wind, but from that height you should be able to see most of Slovenia on a clear day. Bookings should be made at least 10 days before a flight.

Slightly Strange

Quite a few places around Maribor have wine cellars open for tastings and tours, but Vinska Klet Brigadir (p 29) actually manages to cram an entire restaurant underneath its low-hanging vaulted brick ceiling. Located beyond the vineyards on the hill just north of the city centre, this friendly family-run place turns out an array of no-nonsense traditional Slovene cuisine to go with its extensive selection of locally produced wine. They also offer wine tours - call ahead to make arrangements or enquire about the details.

Red’s Pub (p 31) The sight of this place might have you rubbing your eyes in disbelief but it’s true, situated some way beyond the city centre is Maribor’s very own tribute to Liverpool Football Club. There’s red all over the place, naturally, with scarves and other paraphernalia adorning the walls and ceiling. Also somewhat inevitably, is a photo of Steven Gerrard, Xabi Alonso and Djibril Cisse with the European Cup in the background. The pub’s only been going for two years, so it’s nice and tidy and the owner is trying to get a Liverpool Supporter’s Club up and running in Slovenia for which the bar will undoubtedly become the focal point.

Slightly Strange

Located 50km east of Maribor on the western edge of the vast Pannonian Plain, Sočna Hiša (p 23) - or The Sun House - offers what might very well be the most peaceful accommodation anywhere in the country. Billed as Slovenia’s first boutique hotel, five designer suites and several large common areas are tucked into a converted country house on the outskirts of a small village. A separate building houses the hotel’s own spa, where guests have access to relaxing sauna and massage treatments, and the staff can also arrange a variety of activities, including rafting, horseback riding, wine tastings and even a round a golf at a nearby course.

Bee Keeping Centre (p 35) Tell us about the honey, mummy! Indeed, and though it won’t be your, or anyone else’s, mother doing the talking, here’s where you can learn all about the sickly sweet goo that bees produce, which is also high up on the list of healthy eating options. A range of different types of honey - such as pine, chestnut, acacia, linden and flower - can be sampled at no cost at all and for a dip into your pocket you can also try the mead, honey liqueurs and champagne the museum keeps, along with the bees. During the summer you can see the busy bees at work through their specially-made glass beehive.

Maribor In Your Pocket

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Summer - Autumn 2009

Culture & Events The city’s historical legacy as a prominent regional powerhouse has left it well-endowed when it comes to cultural sites and events - a fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed, as it was recently named as one of the EU’s Capitals of Culture for 2012. Aside from the months of August and September, performances of opera, ballet and drama are held throughout the year at the stately National Theatre on Slomškov Square, while an even wider selection of musical, theatrical and children’s events take place at the equally splendid Cultural House near the river. Of course if you prefer to consume culture whilst it’s being projected onto a large screen, two modern multiplex cinemas show all the standard international flicks with varying degrees of lag in release dates. The city also plays host to two of Slovenia’s most well-known annual events: the Golden Fox World Cup in winter and the two-week Lent festival which begins summer in earnest in late June.

Cinemas

Kolosej D-3, Loška 13, tel. 230 14 40, www.kolosej.si. Planet Tuš Maribor H-2, Na poljanah 18, tel. 42 13 980, www.planet-tus.com.

Concert halls

Dvorana Gustaf Pekarna Ob železnici 8, tel. 300 78

70, info@pekarna.org, www.pekarna.org. Dvorana tabor Maribor H-2, koresova 7, tel. 320 78 14, fax 320 78 38, info@dvorana-tabor.si, www. dvorana-tabor.si. Dvorana union D-3, Kneza Koclja 9, tel. 229 40 00, fax 229 40 55, info@nd-mb.si, www.nd-mb.si. Festivalna dvorana lent D-4, loška 13, tel. 234 16 62, barbara@tri-ceps.si, www.tri-ceps.si.

Events

International Balloon Festival 5 - 7 June 2009 16th Marathon Along the Fruit and Wine Roads 6 June 2009 20th International Puppet Festival 20 June - 5 September 2009 17th Festival Lent - international cultural festival 26 June - 11 July 2009 Folkart Festival 30 June - 4 July 2009

31st Cycling Marathon Around Pohorje 27 June 2009 “We play and cook at the Ruška Koča Lodge” 12 July 2009 Areh Sunday 12 July 2009 International All Breeds Dog Show September/October 2009 Festival Maribor 3 - 13 September 2009 Holiday on the River Drava 20 September 2009 9th Old Vine Festival 19 - 27 September 2009 International Festival of Ecological Farms 25 - 26 September 2009 23rd Ceremonial Grape Harvest of the Old Vine 27 September 2009 28th Rural Holiday in Svečina 26 - 27 September 2009 44th Borštnik Theatre Festival October 2009 St Martin’s Day 11 November 2009

Galleries

Fotogalerija Stolp Židovska 6, tel. 62 09 713, info@ galerijastolp.si. QOpen 10.00 - 13.00 15.00-19.00, Sat

10.00 - 13.00. Closed Sun. Galerija Dlum Židovska 10, tel. 252 36 81, dlu. maribor@guest.arnes.si. QOpen 09.00 - 19.00, Sat 09.00 - 13.00. Closed Sun. Pedox Gosposka 27, tel. 41 53 11 42, vojkopecar@ mailcity.com. QOpen 11.00 - 13.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Razstavni salon Rotovž Trg Borisa Kraigherja 3, tel. 250 25 43, uprava@umetnostnagalerija.si, www. umetnostnagalerija.si. QOpen 10.00 - 18.00, Sat 10.00 - 13.00. Closed Sun. Umetnostna galerija Maribor Strossmayerjeva 6, tel. 229 58 60, uprava@umetnostnagalerija.si, www. umetnostnagalerija.si. Q Open 10.00 - 18.00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Theatres

Cultural House Narodni Dom Ul. Kneza Koclja 9, tel. 229 40 00, nd@nd-mb.si, www.nd-mb.si. QOpen

09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00, Sun Opens 1hr before preformances. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno gledališče) Rotovški Trg 2, tel. 228 19 70, info@lg-mg.si, www.lg-mb.si. QOpen 10.00 - 12.00, Thu 10:00 - 12:00; 16:00-18:00, Sun Opens 1hr before preformances.

Festival Lent Vecerov stage

Maribor In Your Pocket

Slovene National Theatre (Slovensko narodno gledališče) Slovenska 27, tel. 250 61 00, sng.maribor@ sng-mb.si, www.sng-mb.si. QOpen 10.00 - 15.00, Sat 10.00 - 13.00, Sun two hours before show.

maribor.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

culture & Events Festival Lent TUESDAY 30. JUNE

EVENT

20:15

JURČKOV ODER

TADEJ VESENJAK IN PRLEKSTA-NSKI FOLKROKBLUZ (SLO, IND)

22:00

JAZZLENT

BAUER & BENNINK (GER, NED)

23:00

MLADININ ODER

RAWKEE

Hour

WEDNESDAY 1. JULY

EVENT

21:30

GLAVNI ODER NA DRAVI

21. FOLKART 2009 (COL, IND, SRB)

22:00

VEČEROV ODER

ZORAN PREDIN & GLOBOKA GRLA

PERFORMER

THURSDAY 2. JULY

Festival Lent

20:00

DVORANA UNION (Salon glasbenih umetnikov)

ROK VOLK – saksofon, ADRIANA MAGDOVSKI - klavir

21:00

SODNI STOLP

TRIUMVIRAT & LADO JAKŠA

21:30

GLAVNI ODER NA DRAVI

21. FOLKART 2009 (TUR, FRA, USA)

23:00

KMŠ ODER

SITI HLAPCI

FRIDAY 3. JULY

Hour

FRIDAY 26. JUNE

EVENT

21.00

SODNI STOLP

JARARAJA