Portorož In Your Pocket by Niko Slavnic

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PORTOROŽ E S S E N T I A L Summer C I TY G UIDES - Autumn 2009 Including

PIRAN, KOPER & IZOLA

Relax in style

Spoil yourself at one of the many magnificent spas in Portorož

Tartinijev Trg

Picturesque Piran is home to Slovenia’s finest square

Kino Otok

Izola’s open-air film festival returns for its 5th instalment

N°1 - € 2.90 www.inyourpocket.com

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving

Getting around

Basics

Transport, language, customs

History

Portorož Culture & Events

Portorož Where to stay

Portorož Restaurants

Portorož Nightlife

Portorož What to see

Portorož Shopping

Piran

Where to stay

Where to eat

What to see

Shopping

The Obala in Portorož

Koper

Where to stay

Where to eat

Nightlife

What to see

Shopping

Izola

Where to stay

Where to eat

Nightlife

What to see

Maps & Index

Koper’s waterfront promenade

portoroz.inyourpocket.com

Daniel Lovšin

Portorož map Koper map Izola map Country map Street Register Index

46 47 48 49 50 50 Summer - Autumn 2009

Foreword

foreword

With only 46 kilometres of Adriatic coast Slovenes have to make the most of every centimetre. The result is a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so notable towns, each with its own unique character, strengths and weaknesses. The poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels, restaurants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destination for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield.

Europe In Your Pocket

Located less than a kilometre from the centre of town, the vast modern marina in Portorož is the gateway to the Mediterranean not only for Slovenia but all of Central Europe. With over one thousand berths accommodating boats up to 22 metres in length, it is one of the largest marinas in the entire Adriatic. Aside from the standard dockside facilities the marina essentially contains a miniature resort with guest rooms, restaurants and cafés, as well as various sports facilities. In May the marina hosts Internautica, a large international boat show which attracts over 40,000 visitors each year.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Portorož In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 604 portoroz@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-7163 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed by Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Portorož In Your Pocket

Press Box

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” New York Times

Portorož has been a tourist destination as far back as the 13th century, when it developed a niche as a health resort, and towards the end of the 19th century it became widely known for the healing properties of its mud and salt water baths. This reputation has persisted till today, with the city currently home to no less than six different wellness spas and resorts. Aside from spas, Portorož also plays host to various national and international conferences, exhibitions and trade fairs, which enables the city to maintain a bustling vibrant air throughout the entire year.

Cover story

On inyourpocket.com

In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full, since 1995, and our company has continually been at the cutting edge of internet development. The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides (back in 2002) you can now download our entire range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than 20,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while the site as a whole regularly attracts more than 250,000 visitors per month.

In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced travel guides, producing almost four million guides per year. With print guides to more than 50 cities across the continent, travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name: they trust our content and our flawless levels of accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to its founding aim of covering the world with well researched and well written city guides. This year we have already launched a new guide to Odesa, and will be launching new guides in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think that you can contribute, and think you have what it takes to publish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Editor Irena Jamnikar, Yuri Barron Writers Craig Turp, Camille Acey, Alina Stylianoum, Yuri Barron Research Tanja Franko, Richard Schofield, Irena Jamnikar, Polona Žerjal Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Turistično združenje Portorož,

MOK, Yuri Barron, Jernej Filipčič Cover photo Barcolana 2008, Miha Crnič, slovensko-morje.net Sales & Circulation Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Sales & Operations Management

Jernej Filipčič tel. + 386 31 331 131 Tjaša Zupanc tel. + 386 30 316 604 Barbara Žlender + 386 30 316 601

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Summer - Autumn 2009

arriving

Getting around Arriving in Koper

Portorož

Arriving in Portorož By car

Portorož is accessible from the direction of Ljubljana by taking the A1 highway south to Koper. From Koper you will transfer to the 111 and go southwest to Portorož.

Taxi

As for transpoprt back to Ljubljana, you will have the same two options: bus or train. There are more busses per day than trains, but the train is cheaper (€9.70 as opposed to €10.40 on the bus) and as most locals appear to take the bus (which can, depending on traffic, be a bit quicker) you often have a compartment on the train to yourself. Our recommendation is to take the train: it is a nicer experience.

By bus

From Trieste in Italy take the S15 south to Koper and follow the directions above.

By Train The nearest train station is in Koper, which has up to five trains a day to and from Ljubljana.

Portorož In Your Pocket

Sunset on the pier

Jernej Filipčič

Airport

Aerodrom Portoroz Sečovlje 19, tel. 5 617 51 40,

Avantcar d.o.o. - National Rent a car D-3, Obala 33,

tel. 080 21 14, national@avantcar.si, www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Cars from €40 per day. Europcar Slovenija D-3, Obala 43, tel. 031 382 053, reservations@europcar.si, www.europcar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Cars from €50 per day.

By bus

From Ljubljana take the A1 motorway to Koper, and follow the signs to Portorož which will take you along the coast from Koper on Route 111. On the hill above Portorož turn right on Koprska and follow the signs for about 4.5km to Piran - the road changes names several times, but it’s a relatively straightforward drive. Parking within Piran proper is very restricted and expensive, but there is a large parking lot on the coast just outside of town where you can park for €8 per day.

Bus schedule

Car rental

Arriving in Piran

By Car

tours@siol.net. Taxi Štefan Obala 122, tel. 51 303 100. Taxi Denis Maglica Lucan 2, tel. 041 602 788, maglcad@hotmail.com. Taxi Portorož Šolska 1, tel. 041 671 202.

info@portoroz-airport.si, www.portoroz-airport.si.

There are numerous buses every day to Portorož from Ljubljana’s main train station. The ride varies from 2 to 3 hours, and the bus drops you directly in the center of town. While there is no actual station, you are dropped across the street from the tourist information center (TIC), and before you cross the street there is also a fairly large supermarket for any last minute items.

Although the Byzantines only controlled Piran for a short time over a thousand years ago, the regional bus operator Veolia has apparently dedicated their timetables to the notoriously complex empire. The arrival and departure times are affixed with a dizzying array of letters and symbols (up to seven characters long) denoting the days and seasons that the listed time is actually in operation, which inevitably leads to much double- and triple-checking accompanied by understandable frustration. The good news is that buses to Izola and Koper and onward to the rest of Slovenia run frequently from the bus station south of the port, and there is also a free shuttle bus between Tartinijev Trg in Piran and Fornače in Portorož every 15 minutes between 5:45 and 23:06.

Sun Tours Portorž Obala 2, tel. 040 710 560, sun-

Unless you are driving, you will arrive in Koper by train or by bus. Both the bus and train station are in the same place, outside of the city centre a fair old walk from Old Town. As railway stations go Koper’s is a pleasant enough place, with amazingly clean toilets. There is an ATM, left luggage lockers, and a booth selling local bus tickets. You will need one of these (they cost €0.42) to use one of the local buses to get into town: take bus No. 1 or No. 2 to Pristaniska ulica. Buses depart every ten minutes or so and the journey takes no more than five minutes. There are also buses for Izola, Portoroz and Piran. The one-way fare to Izola is €1.80. Pay the driver as you board.

KOPER - IZOLA - PORTOROŽ – PIRAN Monday to Friday 05:00, 05:20, 05:40, 06:00, 06:20, 06:40, 07:00, 07:20, 07:35, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:30, 10:00, 10:15, 11:00, 11:30, 12:00, 12:20, 12:40, 13:20, 13:40, 14:10, 14:40, 15:10, 15:30, 16:10, 16:30, 17:10, 17:40, 18:30, 19:20, 20:00, 21:20, 22:20 Saturday-Sunday 05:00, 06:00, 07:00, 08:00, 09:15, 10:15, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00,15:00,16:00, 17:00, 18:15, 19:15, 20:00, 21:00, 22:20 PIRAN - PORTOROŽ - IZOLA – KOPER Monday-Friday 05:00, 05:20, 05:40, 06:00, 06:15, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:40, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:30, 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30, 12:00, 12:20, 12:40, 13:00, 13:20, 13:40, 14:00, 14:20, 14:50, 15:20, 15:40, 16:10, 16:40, 17:20, 18:10, 19:00, 20:00, 21:00, 21:30, 22:15 Saturday-Sunday 05:00, 06:00, 07:00, 08:00 ,09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 13:50, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00, 21:00, 22:15

Giuseppe Tartini, the pride of Piran

Intercity trains & buses TRAINS Ljubljana - Koper 05:53, 06:33, 07:40 (Sat/Sun only), 09:32, 15:40, 18:10 Koper - Ljubljana 05:25, 10:03, 14:45, 16:40 (Sat/Sun only) 19:12, 20:10 BUSES Ljulbjana - Koper - Izola - Portorož - Piran 06:00 (weekdays only), 06:30, 06:45, 08:00, 10:00, 13:45, 15:00 Piran - Portorož - Izola - Koper - Ljubljana 04:25 (weekdays only), 10:45, 11:45 (weekdays only), 12:40, 14:05, 16:30, 18:00, 18:50

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Summer - Autumn 2009

Basics Disabled travellers Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled. Information is available from the NSIOS, tel. 430 36 46, www.nsios.si.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Electricity Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.

Language Slovenian is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and shares many words with other Slavic languages. Many Slovenes also speak English, Italian, or German embarassingly well.

Money Slovenia temporarily swapped the Yugoslav dinar for the tolar in 1991, and adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.

A quiet day on the sea

Religion Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest of them believing in ‘something’.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Tipping It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10% for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.

Visas

Koper’s old town

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Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.

Summer - Autumn 2009

history

Basics In 1879 a Piran doctor, Giovanni Lugnano, started to treat rheumatic problems with fango (sea mud), seawater baths and the drinking of salt water. The reputation of the healing properties of the salt soon spread from the surrounding towns to more distant areas of Austria-Hungary. The arrival of numerous guests after 1885 called for the construction of new villas and boarding houses. This was followed by the establishment of a spa company in Piran, ‘Stabilimento balneare di Pirano’, which oversaw the construction of a new hotel with 80 rooms, 120 beds, a restaurant and a café, as well as a spa building with 30 bedrooms and its own baths, the predecessor of the famous Palace Hotel.

Major Currency Cross Rates Currency

U.S. $ 1. U.S. $ 1. Euro € 1.35 1. U.K. £ 1.49 1. Swiss Franc 0.89

Euro € 0.73 1.10 0.66

U.K. £ 0.65 0.89 0.58

Swiss Franc 1.09 1.49 1.65 -

Market values

The 20th of August 1910 saw the opening of one of the most beautiful hotels on the Adriatic coast - the Palace Hotel. This luxurious building had 175 rooms, a magnificent dining room also used as a multi-purpose hall, a spacious open terrace, a lavish reception room with a large painting by Glauca Cambone as well as rooms for reading and games. The hotel had facilities for mud baths and a seawater pool. The entire spa complex was equipped with the most modern

Prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Product Price (€) McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Snickers €0.59 0.5ltr vodka (shop) €13.85 0.5ltr of local beer(shop) €0.99 Loaf of white bread €2.74 20 Marlboros €2.80 Public transport ticket €1.10 Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures €4.09

Population Slovenia 2,019,406 (2007) Portorož 2,849

Ethnic composition Slovenian 83% Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3% Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 2.8% Official languages Slovenian Italian Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia)

Piran’s Prvomajski Trg

Vinjeta - A (new) Ticket to ride As of June 2008, Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. A yearly/half-yearly/seven day sticker is €95/30/15 for cars and €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. For more info check www.dars.si

Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Street smarts

Borders Austria 318km Italy 280km Hungary 102km Croatia 670km

Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in conversation, so while your destination may officially be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying Poljanska

www.inyourpocket.com Portorož In Your Pocket

In 1913, Portorož was visited by 7000 guests, which increased its international character and notoriety. However, the First and Second World Wars slowed down the development of the town. Its revival came in 1954 when the spa in the old Palace Hotel was renovated. In 1975 the Palace Spa acquired the status of a natural health resort. The new spa, Talasotherapy Portorož, was built ten years later, comprising four hotels which have improved and revived their services in the last couple of years. Today, Portorož is a modern tourist resort with numerous hotels, its own marina, airport, casino, convention and wellness centres, excellent restaurants and many different possibilities for excursions and activities. Every year, numerous events take place in Portorož, attracting Slovene and foreign guests.

Language

Basic data

Area 20,273 square kilometres

therapeutic devices, and in front of the hotel there was a new sandy beach with 200 cabins. The architectural concept was designed by a renowned architect from Trieste, Lodovico Braidotti. In 2008 the hotel was completely renovated, combining the famous old-fashioned exterior and contemporary facilities.

Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street

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Special Pronunciations c – as in pizza e – as in egg g – as in go j – like y in yogurt č – as in cello š – as in ship ž – as in pleasure Basics Do you speak English? – Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I d on’ t u n d erstan d – N e ra zu m em (N u h ra -ZOO mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning – Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day – Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night – Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes – Ja (Yah) No – Ne (Nay) Hello – Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... – Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Monday – Ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday – Torek (TOR-ek) Wednesday – Sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday – Četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday – Petek (peh-tuck) Saturday- Sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Sunday- Nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Who? – Kdo?(K-doh) What? – Kaj?(Ky) Where? –Kje ? (Key-yay) When? – Kdaj (K-dy) How much does it cost? Koliko stane (KOH-LEE-KOH STAH-NEH)?

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Signs Open - Odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - Zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance – Vhod (oo-hod) Exit- Izhod (eez-hod) Push – Rini (ree-nee) Pull – Vleci (oo-LETS-ee) Travelling Bus – Avtobus (OW-toh-booze) Train – Vlak (v-LOCK) I am looking for.... – Iščem (EESH-chem) ... One ticket, please – Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM) Times Now – zdaj (z-day) Later – kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Today – danes (dahn-es) Tomorrow – jutri (yoo-tree) Yesterday – včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the morning- zjutraj (z-YOO-try) In the afternoon- popoldne (poh-POLD-neh) In the evening- zvečer (z-veh-chehr) At night – ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) Restaurant Talk Menu, please – Meni, prosim (MEH-ni pro-SEEM) Bill, please – Račun, prosim (Rah-CHOON pro- SEEM) Do you have vegetarian food? – Imate vegetarijansko hrano (EE-mah-tay veh-geh-tay-ree-ahn-sko h-rah-noh)? Bar Talk One coffee, please – Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh pro-SEEM) One beer, please – (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM) Cheers! – Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! You have beautiful eyes – Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee) Can I have your number? Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko shteh-VEEL-koh)?

Summer - Autumn 2009

culture & Events August

August XXXI. MUSICAL EVENINGS IN PIRAN – every Friday, Cloister of St. Francis Minorite Monastery in Piran 8 August at 21:00 CONCERT BY EUROPEAN MEDICAL STUDENTS CHOIR AND ORCHESTRA– St. George Cathedral 14 August PROCESION WITH TORCHES FROM PIRAN TO STRUNJAN 14 August FESTIVAL “WITH STARS BENEATH THE STARS”

Golden Drum 27 June MELODIJE MORJA IN SONCA 2009 – MUSIC FESTIVAL – Auditorium Portorož 27 June FAIR OF ANTIQUITIES, HOME CRAFTS AND NATURE’S GIFTS in Piran JULY 2–6 July MIFF 2009 - MEDITERRANEAN INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL – Portorož 2 July at 21:00 CONCERT BY STOCKHOLM CHOIR– St. George Cathedral 3 July at 21:00 CONCERT BY CHOIR DURI – EMBRACING SUMMER NIGHTS - Pastoral and cultural centre “Georgios”

22 August FAIR OF ANTIQUITIES, HOME CRAFTS AND NATURE’S GIFTS in Piran 24–30 August 3. FEAST OF ST. GEORGE IN SEČA – traditional feast celebrating the end salt-growing season 28 August-12 September TARTINI FESTIVAL – international music festival in Piran, Portorož, Izola and Koper 29 August – 5 September EX-TEMPORE PIRAN 29–30 August REGATTA MONFALCONE – PORTOROŽ – MONFALCONE

September

18 – 20 September REGATTA LIGNANO-PORTOROŽ-LIGNANO September BAPTISM OF NEPTUNE

10 July XXXI. MUSICAL EVENINGS IN PIRAN – 1ST concert, Cloister of St. Francis Minorite Monastery in Piran

19 September BAKLADA 2009 – march with torches along the narrowgauge railway between Izola and Portorož.

20 - 26 July WO M E N W TA TO U R N A M E N T “ B A N K A KO P E R SLOVENIAN OPEN” – Portorož

24 – 26 September DAYS OF EUROPEAN CULTURAL HERITAGE PIRAN

25 July FAIR OF ANTIQUITIES, HOME CRAFTS AND NATURE’S GIFTS in Piran July WO M E N W TA TO U R N A M E N T “ B A N K A KO P E R SLOVENIAN OPEN” - Portorož Every Sunday July, August PUF 2009 – STREET PUPPET FESTIVAL – Piran July, August P O PU L AR M U SIC CON CE R TS IN AU DITORI U M PORTOROŽ July, August POPULAR MUSIC CONCERTS AT PUNTA PIRAN July, August FILM NIGHTS AT RECTORY`S GARDEN IN PIRAN

Portorož In Your Pocket

26 September WOLRD TOURISM DAY IN PORTOROŽ September SLOVENIAN FILM FESTIVAL

October

4 – 9 October GOLDEN DRUM – advertising festival 17 October FINAL REGATTA – The Gulf of Piran

November

7 – 11 November ST. MARTIN`S FEAST IN LUCIJA November TRADITIONAL KAKI FESTIVAL - Strunjan

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Portorož Where to stay The city’s waterfront is virtually end to end hotels so finding a room shouldn’t be a problem, however, aside from a couple of smaller independently-owned places and some private apartments don’t expect to pay less than €100 per night for anything near the centre. If you don’t need to be right in the middle of the action, finding a place in the surrounding hills can save you a ton of money - even when factoring in a couple return taxi trips per day.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

Cream of the Crop

Grand Hotel Bernardin A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 10 00/695 51 04, fax 674 64 10, booking@h-bernardin. si, www.h-bernardin.si. A sprawling and top gradehotel on the furthest edge of Obala, from the regular bustle as well as thetwo free mobile phone charging stands in the lobby it is clear that it is popular amongst the business travelling set, but it also draws well on the pleasure seekers. It starts on the top floor and the rooms are all down from the lobby getting you closer and closer to the sparkling seaside. The hotel also features a quality and remarkably reasonably-priced restaurant as well as an upstairs cafe with anairy terrace. Q 241 rooms (singles €190, doubles €216-250, suites €380-550). POTHARUIFLGKDXCW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Metropol E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 10 00, fax 690 19 00, sales@metropolgroup.si, www. metropolgroup.si. High up on a hill overlooking the beach area, Metropol is one of the major sprawling hotel complexes along the seaside strip. The complex also features a popular casino, an adult nightclub, and full (though slightly dated ) spa facilities. The hotel has the distinction of having a direct bridge to the beach from a passageway through the lobby, and from there you can also access their private swimming pool and lounge area on the beach front. Q 103 rooms (singles €185, doubles €250-270, suites €420-550). POTHARFGKDCW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Portorož D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 90

03/696 90 01, fax 696 10 25, booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. Second in rank to its neighbour Kempinski Palace, this grand hotel appears like a huge complex connected directly with the Galeria San Marco shopping centre and the dynamic Café Central, perfect for a morning caffeine fix. Action surrounds this hotel day and night, with bars and restaurants directly in front of the hotel along the beach. Q 185 rooms,13 suites (singles €175-230 doubles €230-310). POTHAR6ULGKDXCW hhhhh

Portorož In Your Pocket

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Kempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. 692

70 00/692 79 50, reservations.portoroz@kempinski. com, www.kempinski-portoroz.com. This grandest of residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay with its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the comforts of a 5 star hotel can be found at the Palace, and at a reasonable price for the quality. When you want to escape for a moment of peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the hotel offer are a shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17 suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285360, suites €900-2150). PTJHAUILEB� KXCW hhhhh

Upmarket

Apollo D-3, Obala 43, tel./fax 692 90 03, tel. 692 90 01,

booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. Apollo enjoys the benefits of centrality with in a more sheltered and private setting, the entrance being just off the main promenade street. This hotel is favourable for those who prefer quieter surroundings. It is adequately connected with a passageway to the Terme & Wellness Palace, (known as one of the best this side of Trieste!) and set among evergreen pine trees and gardens that provide shade, freshness and relaxation. Q 87 rooms (doubles €120-250). PTJARLGB� KDXCW hhhh

Histrion A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 5104/695 5106, fax

674 6410, booking@h-bernardin.si, www.h-bernardin. si/. Situated at the peak of the peninsula, at the quieter end of Obala street, this resort has a mini town ofits own, built around the beautiful ruin of St. Bernardin Monastery from the 15th century. The hotel offers days of relaxation at the Health and Wellness Centre,sunbathing and swimming at their private lagoon water park and beach, or you could try your luck at the magnificent Casino Histrion. You won’t even have to leave the premises at night, as Histrion run their own evening entertainment programme.Indeed, it seems that much of the city stops by for the hot and heavy salsa partyon Friday nights, hosted at the casino. Q 276 rooms (singles €140-150, doubles €160-170, suites €260390). POTHAUIFLEGBKDXCSW hhhh

Marita E-4, Obala 89, tel. 617 22 00, fax 617 22

17, info@hotel-marita.si, www.hotel-marita.si. From the outside, Marita’s glassy and bland-coloured appearance does not do her much justice. However, the greenery of her gardens and large swimming pools are a delight. Marita is situated just on the edge of town and very close to Lucija (Portoroz’s neighbouring town), which provides a calmer alternative to the crowded restaurants and beaches along Obala. Q 83 rooms (singles €150, doubles €190, suite €200-250). PTAULGBKXCW hhhh

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portorož Where to stay Marko D-3, Obala 28, tel. 617 40 00, fax 617 40 11, hotel.marko@amis.net, www.hotel-marko.com. The only non-corporate hotel on thestrip, this small but high-quality hotel boasts beautiful rooms which all have balconies attached, some facing toward the beach, others facing to the back for more quiet. It also has a beautiful front garden for relaxing. As this small unique hotel only has 48 rooms, they fill up fast during the high season with many returning visitors. Q 48 rooms (doubles €100-120, suites €130-160). PTHAR6UGKXW hhhh

Mirna D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 40 20/696 90 01, fax 692

90 03, booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. Perched higher up the slope with rooms providing breathtaking views of the bay and town that lie beneath. Probably not suited for the elderly or parents with young kids, as the slope provides a backbreaking walk to and from Obala, the beaches and the hotel. However, the swimming pool provides a pleasant and peaceful alternative from bathing in the sea, and a passageway satisfactorily joins to the Terme & Wellness Palace. Q 77 double rooms, 4 suites (singles €120-175, doubles €180-250). PTJAR6FLGBKDXCW hhhh

Neptun D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 90 20/692 90 01, fax

692 90 03, booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. An ideal family hotel, Neptun provides the best of both worlds: you can opt for a room facing the bustling Obala promenade and beaches or stay in a room that provides shade and tranquillity under the surrounding majestic trees. Connected by an indoor passageway with its siblings Apollo and Mirna and the Terme & Wellness Palace you are sure to enjoy the best the hotel has to offer its guests. Q 89 rooms (singles €150-185, doubles €190-250). PTAR6LGKXW hhhh

Riviera D-3, Obala 33, tel. 692 90 03/696 90 01, fax

692 60 40, booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. Another impressive hotel along the Obala promenade and with its entrance bustling with shoppers, the Hotel Riviera is the perfect place to enjoy a morning coffee at the neighbouring Café Mignon and gaze at Obala’s pace of life pass by. The speciality of the hotel is the large swimming pool that is situated directly above the café on a huge terrace facing out towards the crystalline sea. Riviera also hosts its own “Casino Riviera” and “Mystica”, a cocktail bar and terrace which can become very lively during late summer nights. Q 176 rooms( singles €150-185, doubles €190-250). PTARULGBKDXCW hhhh

Roža E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 20 00/690 29 00, fax 690

78 77, sales@metropolgroup.si, www.hotel-roza.com. Towards the end of Obala, away from the hustle and bustle of the town, Hotel Roza sits beside the Grand Metropol Resort and on a hill encircled by cypresses and olive grooves. If you stay here, don’t waste any time exploring a variety of wellness treatments, the Portoroz Casino and other activities on location. The beaches and shopping district is just a short walk away. Q 111 rooms (singles €110-140, doubles €150-180). POTHARULGX hhhh

Slovenija D-3, Obala 33, tel. 692 50 20/696 90 01, fax

692 90 01, booking@lifeclass.net, www.lifeclass.net. Probably the most centrally located Obala hotel, with balconies that soak up the entire view of the Piran bay. Popular among business associates because of its centrality and its Congress Centre featuring seven large halls equipped with the latest technology. A busy day of meetings can be finished off with a “Wai Thai” massage at the natural face and body care centre or with a swim at its heated seawater swimming pool. Q 144 rooms, 16 suite ( singles €160-185, doubles €190-250). PTJHAR6ULGBKDXCW hhhh

Portorož In Your Pocket

Mid-Range

Barbara E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@metropol-

group.si, www.metropolgroup.si. Sitting higher up on the hill and behind sibling Hotel Lucija, the walk up to the entrance is dominated once again by ever-greenfoliage, ensuring that your stay will be satisfied with undisturbed peace and restin nature’s embrace. Rooms are fresh, airy and well shaded by the trees in the gardens. Definitely, the prettiest hotel on the Metropol Resort. Q 65 rooms (doubles €130-170). PALGBKXW hhh

Lucija E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@metropol-

group.si, w w w.metropolgroup.si. Situated within a wonderful evergreen park dotted with artistic statues and located in the immediate vicinity of the Obala promenade. This wide spread hotel also benefits from a large swimming pool, which is shaded bycypress and palm trees. Although, the architecture itself seems a bit on the old-fashioned side (as with the rest of the Metropol resort) the rooms do favour amore modern design. Q 182 rooms (single €105, doubles €140, suite €170). PTAULGBKXCW hhh

Vile Park Bernardin A-3, Obala 2, tel. 695 51 04/695 51 06, fax 674 64 10, booking@h-bernardin.si, www. h-bernardin.si/en/. Slightly away from the town centre, these luxurious villas within the Hotel Bernardin complex are well connected to the Obala promenade. Nestled by the beautiful Mediterranean lagoon water park and adorned with lush vegetation, these quiet and self-contained villas are for those who like everything to be at their doorstep. Seven restaurants on the complex offer different cuisines and varied atmosphere. Q 217 rooms €110-145. POTHA6UFLEGBKDXCSW hhh Villa Marina Seča 202, tel. 67 40 360, fax 67 40 361,

villamarina@istriana.si, www.istriana.si/villamarina. Just opened in June 2009 this four-star villa offers eight comfortable, if not overwhelmingly luxurious, four-star suites on two floors that also include an indoor swimming pool, sauna and pleasant garden area. Unsurprisingly located in the vicinity of the modern marina, the relaxing atmosphere is in stark contrast to the lively Obala strip but still within walking distance of its restaurants, bars and beaches - although during the scorching summer months it may be wise to opt for short taxi ride. Q 8 suites (€159-239). THARFLGBDC hhhh

Budget

Garni Maki F-4, Pot K Izviru 21, Lucija, tel./fax 677

19 28, tel. 040 46 30 10, gborut@siol.net, www. garni-maki.com. Climb to the top of the windy road and you’ll certainly be glad you did. While the accomodations are totally basic, the terraces which open out to a gorgeous view of the red tiled roofs and seaside below make it all worthwhile. The continental breakfast on the terrace gives a great start to the morning and the family who recently took over this hotel give the place a comfortable homey feeling. Q 10 rooms (singles €30-35). THARILGXW hhh

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portorož Where to stay

Garni Strasek E-3, Sencna pot 4a, tel. 774 6417/674

8418, garni-strasek@volja.net, www.garnistrasek-portoroz.si. Situated up a hill that offers great views of the town and the bay of Piran, this garni is close to the marina and bar district at the end of the Obala promenade. A cheaper alternative for a stay in Portoroz and in a peaceful residential district. Q singles €56-61, doubles €72-82, triples €103113). P6NGBX hhh

Penzion Forma Viva Seča 159, tel. 40 369 003, fax

677 04 66, formaviva.portoroz@gmail.com, www.formaviva-portoroz.si. If you would prefer to avoid the resort town atmosphere of the city’s crowded beachside area, but still want easy access to its restaurants and nightlife, this 23 room guest house in the leafy hills just south of Marina Portorož is a great option. With views towards the strangely exotic-looking Sečovlje salt pans, its pink-walled palm-lined courtyard has a distinctly tropical feel to it. The hotel is both pet and family-friendly, and the staff can arrange boat trips and recommend pleasant walks through the surrounding countryside Q €35-85. T6LG hh

Villa Saline Seča 119, tel. 677 94 00/41 64 21 40,

villasaline@siol.net, www.villasaline.com. This large family-run villa is located in Seča on the hills overlooking the famous salt pans, a short drive south of Portorož. Their four fully-equipped apartments can fit between two and six guests, and are a great value with prices as low as €13 per person. The amiable hosts are also more than happy to help arrange excursions and even offer guided boat tours of the salt canals and Istrian coast. Q 4 apartments (€36-109). PTA6LB hhh

Apartment rental

Apartments Ananina E-3, Bazoviska 23, tel. 041 75

75 50, fax 677 3692, info@ananina.com, www.ananina. com. Located just above the Grand Hotel Metropol, these apartments are a cheaper alternative and close to the vibrant beaches and nightlife along Obala. It’s a great place for families who can make use of the children’s playground and barbeque grill in the gardens. All balconies have a sea view. Q €43-199. PNGBX hhh

Apartments Diana Belac B-2, Lepa 24, tel./fax

674 51 18, belac.dinko@volja.net, users.volja.net/belacdinko/. Another option for a cheaper place to reside, these two apartments (for a maximum of 4 people) offer spacious, clean rooms and a balcony where you can enjoy dinner and a glass of wine while gazing at the never-ending blue horizon. The centre is a good 2-3 kilometres walk away and the closest beach is 300metres away, right by the Hotel Bernardin Complex. Q €76 apt for 4 people. P6NGB hh

Villa Lili E-3, Letoviška pot 29, tel. 674 4042/031 536

769, portoroz@vilalili.com, www.vilalili.com. Situated in the bustling residential centre of Portoroz within walking distance of restaurants, cafes, clubs and casinos you won’t be short of entertainment here, and the price is certainly right for an apartment starting at €60! It just might be a bit of a trek back up the hill after a long day at the beach or a night out in town. Ask the owner about walking trails and cycle tours around the villa’s natural complex. Q €60-120. P6NGBXW hhhh

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Summer - Autumn 2009

portorož Restaurants A plethora of culinary delights is not one of the city’s main selling points, and quite frankly, with all the other reasons to come here it doesn’t have to be. That being said, the selection should be good enough to keep things interesting, and there are quite a few upmarket places catering to the tourist crowds - mostly offering Mediterranean or Italian menus that tend to be at least marginally overpriced.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Lunch

News Café B-3, Obala 4f, tel. 674 10 04, www.news-

cafe.si. Dark and breezy courtesy of its many ceiling fans, this wonderful nautical and antique-feeling bar evokes the feeling of a place where an old-time detective might grab a drink and indeed you can sit here and sip on something cool while you also try to figure things out. It features two terraces, a full bar, a number of specialty drinks as well as pizzas, burgers, and even a kids menu. While it can be tough to locate, as its tucked behind the sprawling Bernardin complex, it definitely merits a little extra sleuthing. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (€1.10-19.80). PTJA6UGBKSW

Mediterranean

Figarola & Gregory D-3, Obala 14a, tel. 674 22 00.

Clean and newly remodeled this is actually two restaurants in one but you won’t find any physical dividing line. Gregory provides the pasta, meat, and seafood dishes; Figarola, of course, the pizzas, and a friendly and attentive staff brings it all to your table inside or out on the terrace.

Majestic E-3, Obala 18a, tel. 41 885 198. Part of the Paco family of restaurants, this is actually a two-part establishment directly on the beach with an excellent cake shop/cafe on one side and a seafood restaurant on the other. Here you can tuck into all the grilled and greasy fish dishes you’d like and then move over to the terrace to top the meal off with some of the cake shop’s rich ice cream. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. In October: 12:00-24:00 (€10-30). PTA6UEGBXS

Ondina E-3, Obala 16, tel. 674 20 72, www.ondina.si.

This restaurant serves a wide range of typical seafood options in its Italian trattoria-style environment, but there are also meat and pasta options if you’re not in the mood for fish. While it makes great aims at being classy the constant flow of traffic outside their doors works against that effort; head to the side room for a bit more intimacy. Not very vegetarian friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (€9-20). TA6UEGBXS

San Lorenzo E-4, Obala 77, tel. 690 70 00, sales@ Dining on the promenade in Portorož

Fast Food

Doner Kebab F-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 09 63. Just hid-

den behind the Blue Bar, this truly is the best place to stop by if you’re feeling peckish after a night out. The kebabs are filling, stuffed with delicious meat and salad for just €3.50. The staff are indeed a chatty bunch. Excellent for budget travellers seekin go ut a cheap meal in comparison to more pricey restaurants in the area. QOpen till late. €2-5. NGKS

Fish

Ribja Kantina E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 91 04. Fish and seafood lovers won’t need an address to find this place, you will smell it immediately strolling along the Obala promenade (and even at its second location opposite Alaya cocktail bar) and it will lead you straight inside to a table and an irresistible menu. The fish is of the freshest kind and the atmosphere of the restaurant is remarkably full of laughter. The grilled squid are a delight, especially with a jug of local Slovenian wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€7-26). PTA6LGBXS

Portorož In Your Pocket

metropolgroup.si, www.metropolgroup.si. This fashionable restaurant is situated within the Grand Hotel Metropol itself and offers a vast international and Mediterranean menu complete with a selective wine list. It’s a perfect location for business events,celebrations and wedding banquets. Q PAULGKX

Stara Oljka E-3, Obala 20, tel. 674 85 55, www.

staraoljka.si. While other restaurants simply add regional food to their menus, comfortable and inviting Stara Oljka makes regional Istrian cuisine their focus; this means fish, crabs, lobsters,and almost anything else that calls the sea their home. However they are also keen to cater to vegetarians and those who pass on seafood, as they enjoy the rustic indoor surroundings or airy backyard patio. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5,80-30). PTA6IGBXSW

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Portorož Nightlife

portorož Restaurants Staro Sidro E-3, Obala 55, tel./fax 674 50 74, star-

osidro@siol.net. Walking up the steps of the old and abandoned Villa San Marco and heading in the direction of Staro Sidro, can feel like going into a time warp. The beautiful but decaying old restaurant seems to be frozen in another, simple time. Some of the staff seem to be frozen there right along with it, but it nonetheles offers a charming get away from the MTV beach madness. Its standard fare of sea food and meat dishes are reasonably priced and offered with a lengthy list of local wines. If you’re looking for an experience of classic old Portorož, this is your destination. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTA6GBXS

Tomi E-3, Letoviška 1, tel. 674 02 22, fax 674 72 85,

tomi.m@siol.net, www.tomi-sp.si. Araditional classic seafood restaurant with a wood paneled barand mid-range prices. Tomi is run by a family and also caters to families and largegroups with big plates to be shared. There are a few vegetarian and meat optionshere as well, but this restaurant really exists to let the seafood shine. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€6-12). TA6ILBXSW

Mexican

Papa Chico E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 93 10, www.robot.

si/Papa/Index.htm. Mexico is far away from Slovenia but this restaurant does its best to bring it a little closer. The entrance features a road sign pointing “gringos”into the place and a sleeping Mexican “statue” meets you at the door.Here you can slurp down a fantastic maragarita and taste a great Slovenian attempt at the cuisine. The back of the menu tells the story of Papa Chico, a parrot breeding eccentric, and also advises you to relax and accept the fact that service will be - in true Mexican fashion - quite slow. If you’ve got the time, you’d do well to heed this word. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Drinks: 09:00-02:00 In October: Daily: 10:00-24:00, drinks: 10:00-02:00 (€5,90-16,30). PTA6ULEGBXSW Enjoy a coffee African style

Coffee & Cakes Cacao D-3, Obala 14, www.cacao.si. A stylish and modern new coffee and cake place that also functions as a bar. Its done in the generic nouveau Euro style that you either love or hate, and the restaurant is part of what appears to be a growing chain. The bored looking staff are, nonetheless, attentive and fast. The coffee, cakes, and other sweets are good but skip the flavorless cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PTAR6UGBX

Café Central D-3, Obala 43, tel. 696 10 20, www.

lifeclass.net. This classy café in the Life Class center may well be the trendiest meeting place on the strip. The outside terrace area opens into an expansive atrium with more than ample seating for you and your group.Tell everyone to meet you back here for coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTA6ULEGBXS

Mignon D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 90 40. This place is

rumored to have the best ice cream in the area and while we haven’t conducted a taste test through the entire town we certainly can attest to it being quite good. In addition to delicious home made ice cream they also have top quality cakes and a staff that’s quick and obliging when you, undoubtedly ask for one more. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PT6UGBXS

Portorož In Your Pocket

Pizza & Pasta

Paco Pizzeria D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 674 10 20. A grill,

pizzeria and trattoria found along the Obala promenade with a large terrace with tables shaded from the sun by large thatched umbrellas. The beach comes up directly to the restaurant’s terrace where you can eat and watch the sparkling panorama. The menu boasts a fine selection of pizzas, grilled specialities and seafood. A pleasant dining experience during lunch time or the early evening. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (€9-30). TA6UGBKXS

Rustika E-4, Obala 26, tel. 677 13 11, rustica@email.si.

The terrace of this restaurant curiously overlooks a concrete basketball court but if you can overlook this fact you’ll find an assortment of pastas as well as many vegetarian and vegetable offerings, a full list of local wines, and one daily sweet if you’re too full to walk over to a better cake shop. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. In October: 12:00-23:00 (€3,50-13). PTA6ULGBXSW

Santa Lucia F-4, Liminjanska 78, Lucija, tel. 677

18 94, fax 677 40 40, vesnaver@siol.net. A bog standard family pizza and pasta place serves to a clientele of mainly locals and marina workers. It is rather difficult to locate and certainly doesn’t merit a special visit from the center, but if you are headed back from S eča an d n e e d s om e wh ere b u d ge t-fri en dl y an d tast y, this will cer tainl y do. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. From September i t’s closed on Tuesday. (€4,40-11). PTAR6LGBXS

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Not many people come to Portorož with the intention of going to bed early, and the city obligingly offers plenty of places to drink, dance or just chill out till the early morning hours. There are a number of great beach clubs with live music, trendy lounges, waterfront cafés and even a couple of grungy pubs if you’re in the mood to exprience some less refined local flavour.

Symbol key

Casinos

Adonis E-3, Postajališka 2. If you’ve been kicked out

of every other casino on the strip and still haven’t learned your lesson then this is the place for you. Up behind the supermarket this all-electronic gambling house is open 24 hours for all your needs, and it’s located conveniently steps away from the bus station, should you decide its time for you to get out of town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs. PAULGX

Grand Casino Portoroz E-4, Obala 75a, tel. 676

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

0450/676 0373, fax 676 0485, marketing.portoroz@ casino.si, www.casino-portoroz.si. Part of the Metropol resort and adjoined to the Grand Hotel Metropol, the Grand Casino fills up during the evenings with elite holidaymakers and business men and women. Gamble your luck on the roulette table with your friends or privately enjoy one of the poker or slot machines. POHAULG

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Riviera D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 82 54/674 82 53,

Bars

Kanela Bar D-3, Obala 14, tel. 674 61 81. A fabulous

rock n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given moment, but most prefer the pleasure ofthe beach directly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock concerts are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX

Latino Bar F-4, Obala 114. A dark, rusty-coloured bar, and not really latino as its name suggests. The seating indoor and out on the terrace is exceptionally comfortable and you might find yourself there drinking with your friends for hours. A social joint, popular with the young crowd and chill out music on offer should be on your evening programme. Order yourself a Captain Morgan in the evenings and the next day come back for breakfast: the bruschettas are mouth-watering. Q PNGBKX

Lido D-3, Obala 14a. Named after an Italian strip of seaside, Lido lists a number of snacks and drinks including a few cocktails with x-rated titles. The place is adjacent and shares ownership with the Tivoli Nightclub and caters to the same sort of adolescent party crowd, though it stays rather calm during the day. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 03:00. P6UGBXW

Planet Pub Heineken D-3, Obala 14a. This bar, which

does not appear to actually be affiliated with the Heineken company, is host to a full barof drinks as well as electronic slot machines. However, with no real identiy of its own, it seems that its real purpose might be just to handle overflow from its sister establishment, Club Tivoli. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PA6GBXW

Playa C-3, Fizine, www.playa.si. }Little more than a

tiny cabana with a bar on one edge of the beach, this place still manages to pack in a full terrace of drinkers as it is the onlybar in the immediate area. It offers a standard mix of alcoholic drinks anda few panini sandwiches for famished sun bathers who can’t be bothered to pack it in and head for something better. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 6EBX

portoroz.inyourpocket.com

info@casino-riviera.si, www.casino-riviera.si. A clean and well air-conditioned casino with a friendly staff,it is a prime place to fritter away your hard-earned money or use up the last few Euros before you head home. Non-alcoholic drinks as well as wine and beer are free, but some evenings free cocktails are also on offer. The casino plays occasional host to late night entertainment, but call ahead to find out whether and what. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Admission free. PALEGBX

Clubs

Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. 651 41 02, info@paprika.

si, www.paprika.si. }A cafe during the day, the uber-modern interior only hints at the debaucherous disco scene that the place transforms into during the evening with themed nights ranging from latin to house music. The nights are replete with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating roster of local and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. Admission free. PAULEGBXW

Tivoli D-3, Obala 14a. A dance club catering to the MTV

beach party set that you’ll find peppered amongst every other speck of sand and surf. This black box space hosts a number of top local and regional DJs, and those who really want to party are wise not to show up until the wee hours when the night really takes off. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €2-30. PUEGBX

Dancing

Alaya Cocktail Bar E-4, Obala 22, tel. 51 33 22

33/31 606 101, info@alaya.si, www.alaya.si. A Caribbean, tropically decorated beach bar which serves up cocktails of all colours of the rainbow. A worthy place for a stop over during a night out with friends and on some nights a beach party more than likely can fire up with occasional live music or a DJ. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. TA6ULEBXSW

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Summer - Autumn 2009

Portorož what to see

PortoroŽ Shopping

Forgotten amongst all the four-star hotels, spas, restaurants and clubs are two of Slovenia’s must see tourist attractions: the still-functioning salt pans in the Sečovlje nature reserve and Forma Viva, a large sculpture park in the hills south of the city. For boating enthusiasts Portorož Marina might also be worth a visit, as it’s one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic.

The key word here is ‘functional’, which in the case of Portorož means shops generally come in two varieties: either swimwear and equipment for a day at the beach or on the water, or upmarket fashion for a night out on the town - with a souvenir shop or two thrown in for good measure.

Art & Antiques

Tourist Information

Darila, souvenir shop E-3, Obala 55, tel. 674 67 72,

atlas.portoroz@siol.net, www.atlasexpress.eu. Unikat Art & hobby E-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 51 77/40 880 636. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30-19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Tourist Information Portorož E-3, Obala 16, tel. 674 22 20, fax 674 82 61, ticpo@portoroz.si, www. portoroz.si. Q September to June from 09:00-17:00. July-August from 09:00-19:00.

Beauty Essential

Avditorij Portorož Cultural Center E-3, Senčna Pot

10, tel. 676 67 00, info@avditorij.si, www.avditorij.si. The auditorium’s logo doesn’t seem to have been updated since the disco era and it seems it’s conference center may not have hadany major changes since then either, nonetheless it still plays host to a number of conferences and major concerts throughout the year. Check their schedule to see whether they’ve got something to your interest.

Forma Viva Seča, tel. 671 20 80, info@obalne-galerije.

si, www.obalne-galerije.si. Established in the early 1960s by two Slovene artists, this sculpture park now serves as home to a large park full of mostly abstract pieces by an international mix of artists. Head inside and along the beautiful grassy area for a meditative walk, or perch yourself on one of the many benches and watch the boats sail by. A very unique treat! Q Open whole day. No admission fee.

Beautique Portorož D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 671 67 04,

Sečovlje Saline Nature Park Tel. 672 13 30, kpss@

soline.si, www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years ago, salt wasa commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and controlits means of collection. Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are also awell-preserved natural habitat for all kinds of wildlife. The trek out to thepans is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €3 adults; €2 students, seniors; free for children under age six.

Church

Holy Church of our Lady of the Rosary D-3, Cvetna

Pot 4, tel. 674 67 00. Travellers who have grown accustomed to and bored with elaborate old European churches, might enjoy this interesting little break from the ancient and rarefied. Constructed in the 1980s, with wooden surroundings and small stained glass, this interesting piece of architecture seems to evoke a happy hippy feeling of Catholicism, with a not-so-pained Jesus leaning down from the cross to speak to a group of friends.The outside lobby offers free postcards and reading material.

Tourist Agency Istriana - Tourist Service Portorož (Andreja Humar Fatorič s.p.) E-4, Podvozna 2, tel. 674 03

60/080 2800, fax 674 03 61, tourist-portoroz@siol. net, www.istriana.si.This helpful tourist agency is a one-stop shop for all your accommodation and recreation needs. Located near the marina about halfway between the main bus station to the south and the beach to the north, they can book rooms and apartments that suit most budgets at well over 100 different locations in and around Portorož, and also arrange a variety of activities and excursions throughout the region.Q November - April: 09:00- 13:00, May, June, September, October: 09:00-15:00, 17:00 -19:00, July- August: 09:00-21:00

fax 671 67 08. A cosmetics shop found in a row of small stores catering to women shoppers,the focus here is on perfumes but you will also find nail polish, skin creams, and everything else you might need for the bother some business of beautifying the body. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Fashion

Botique Napoleon D-3, Obala 43, tel. 692 22 00, www.

botique-napoleon.com. A luxury shopping experience in the Gallerija San Marco/LifeClass shopping center. This tiny women’s clothing shop features a wider ange of high end Italian fashions. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:30. Max Mara Kempinski (Portorož) D-3, Obala 45, tel. 907 74 90/031 667 223, info@morris.si, www.morris. si. Located in the luxurious Kempinski Palace Hotel, this wellknown Italian fashion brand has been selling designer-quality apparel for over fifty years. The focus of the current collection is on sexy urban clothes for confident sophisticated women. Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, so you might want to start thinking now about how you can claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 15:30-18:00. Modiana D-3, Obala 14 b, tel. 671 67 16, fax 671 67 17. A women’s clothing store with a decidedly nautical lean, they sell a number of namebrand clothing lines that you could just as well find at home. However, if you’ve been swept off your feet by a local yachtsman and are off for an impromptu sailing trip, you might want to stop here first so you are certain to look the part. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Studio La Perla D-3, Obala 33, tel. 674 01 86, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. This small boutique in the Life Class Resort complex has you covered if you’ve forgotten to pack your swimsuit or would just like to treat yourself to something a little nicer before hitting the beach.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Trgovina Skinny B-3, Obala 7c, tel. 673 80 16, www. rebel.si. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Flowers

Florist’s shop Orhidea F-4, Obala 114, tel. 677 73 33, kantemirjana@gmail.com.

Gifts & Souvenirs

That’s Slovenia Tel. 059 190 784, info@thatslovenia. com, www.thatslovenia.com.

Portorož In Your Pocket

portoroz.inyourpocket.com

Summer - Autumn 2009

piran

PortoroŽ Shopping T-shirts and caps in the best shops in Slovenia

more as a souvenir

Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slovenia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and overwhelmingly picturesque. It’s a town that is almost impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if you only have time for a day trip you’ll likely want to make plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added “family residence in Piran - preferably renovated” to our list of things we now look for in potential significant others, but that’s only because we’re superficial. Despite it’s modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It boasts what is undeniably the country’s finest square, the 19th century Tartinijev Trg named after the composer Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched on the hill above. In addition its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the best seafood we’ve ever eaten but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings.

www.thatslovenia.com Markets

Souvenir D-3, Obala 14. Packe d wi th all thin gs

touristic, from great togarish, this place is a holidaymakers dream come true. A numb er of vendorsare packed into this cool warehouse space and provide one stop shopping for souvenirs,postcards, and all your beachside needs. This is an easy way to get all yourshopping done and get right back to having fun. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

Sport & Leisure

Interspor t Por torož D-3, Obala 14 b, tel./fax

671 67 15, w w w.interspor t.com. This ou tpost of

Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the horizon that was responsible for much of its fortune. In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea). However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked waterfront and central square down the narrow backstreets, the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.

Visit our e-shop the international chain is a useful and fair-priced sporting goods store, carrying all manner of athletic equipment, swimsui ts, and clothing for men, women, and children. They even sell camping equipment should you decide to flee your hotel for one of the local campsites. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09.00 - 13.00. O!bala Board shop E-3, Obala 57, tel. 674 80 52, www.obsession.si. According to the sales man the name of this skate shop is an expletivein skater-language, and if you find yourself stumbling across the skate park in Lucija and shouting expletives at yourself for leaving your skateboard gear athome you can duck into this tiny shop and get everything you need, from shoesto boards, and get out on the ramp. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Banka Koper (Branch bank Portorož) D-3, Obala 33, tel. 5 674 33, www.banka-koper.si. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00, 15:00-17:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

NLB - Nova Ljubljanska banka (Branch bank Lucija) E-4, Obala 112, tel. 5 677 08, www.nlb.si. QOpen 08:30:13:00, 15:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Beauty salons

Hairdresser Tanja E-4, Obala 114, tel. 5 677 18 02. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 8:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Salon Trendy D-3, Obala 33, tel. 5 692 21 50. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 8:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Portorož In Your Pocket

Post

Post office Lucija B-3, Obala 107, tel. 5 671 32 01. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Post off ice Por tor ož D/E3, K stari cesti 1, tel. 5 671 32 20. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. portoroz.inyourpocket.com

In the wake of the Roman’s withdrawal, the Byzantines asserted their power in the region for over a century before themselves being driven out by the Franks, which triggered a wave of migration by Slavs from the interior to the coast. As Venice gradually came to power in the north Adriatic, the inhabitants of the cities along the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts signed trade contracts and political agreements with each other and the Venetians in an attempt to maintain their independence. However, during the 13th century Venice finally decided that it would like to have full control of the salt pans surrounding Piran, and launched a short successful war in 1282. Venetian rule lasted for over 500 years, only coming to an end in 1797 at the hands of Napoleon, but unfortunately for the wee Corsican the Austrians invaded shortly thereafter and held the territory on and off before taking firm control in 1813. During the next hundred years, Piran experienced exceptional prosperity and growth, with many of the town’s most notable administrative buildings dating from this period, including the town hall and even Tartinijev Trg, which had previously been the inner harbour.

Where to stay

Laptop login

Cacao D-3, Obala 14, tel. 5 674 10 35, info@cacao. si, www.cacao.si. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. Pub Kapelca D-3, Obala 16 a, tel. 041 665 881. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00.

The area of present-day Piran was settled by Illyrian tribes during the pre-Roman era, but historians still do not agree on the origins of its name. Of the competing theories, the one which sounds most plausible to us is that it is derived from pyr, the Greek word for fire, because the peninsula was originally used primarily as a grounds for lighting fires to guide ships to the nearby settlement of Aegida. After a brief war with the local tribes the Romans annexed much of the north-east Adriatic in 178 BC, and steadily colonised the area until the decline of their empire during the 5th and 6th centuries.

After World War I all of Istria came under the rule of Italy, which neglected the region leading to significant economic and cultural decline. Following World War II, Piran was included in the zone of Yugoslav military administration, officially becoming a part of Yugoslavia in 1954. It gained independence as part of the Republic of Slovenia in 1991.

Directory Banks

History

View of Piran from the old town wall

Tourist Information Turist Information Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 2, tel.

673 44 40, fax 673 44 41, ticpi@portoroz.si, www. portoroz.si. Q September - June: 09:00-17:00. Sunday: 10:00-14:00. July - August: 09:00-20:00

piran.inyourpocket.com

Most visitors choose to sleep in nearby Portorož which may very well have more hotels than Piran has buildings, however this is a shame on several levels. For anyone with even a hint of romanticism in them Piran deserves more than just a day trip, there is nothing quite like waking up in the morning and looking out your window onto the squares, windy cobblestone streets and red tile roof tops of an old Venetian town. There are also much better centrally located budget options here including a couple great B&Bs and a quite a few private apartments. While there are technically four different hostels in town, three of them are essentially a single place run by the same people but housed in different buildings very near each other, and none of the four are hostels in the true sense of the word, meaning single and odd numbered beds are not available.

piran.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2009

piran

piran Miracolo di Mare Tomšičeva 23, tel. 59 21 76 60/51

val@siol.net, www.hostel-val.com. One street in from the waterfront near the seemingly endless row of seafood restaurants, this old school Piran standard could do with a makeover and a couple extra bathrooms, but without much competition to deal with in the budget category we won’t be holding our breath in anticipation. All in all it’s a good value option with clean, comfortable rooms and a plentiful breakfast buffet that draws some rave reviews. There’s also a chance they can hook you up with a parking pass for a nearby lot, but make sure to ask in advance. Q 22 rooms (doubles €44-50, triples €66-75, quads €88-100). JAGK

Piran A-1, Stjenkova 1, tel. 676 21 00, marketing@hoteli-

Where to eat

piran.si, www.hoteli-piran.si. Built in 1964, Piran’s largest hotel also holds the dubious distinction of being the ugliest building in town, a bright blue monstrosity next to the theatre that takes up a sizeable chunk of waterfront real estate. However, the good news for those staying here is that the exterior can’t be seen from the inside, and the views from the seaside balconies are splendid. The rooms themselves are comfortable enough, but still have a bit an uninspired resort town feel to them despite being renovated back in 2002. Q 80 rooms and 10 apartments (singles €61-87, doubles €72-122, apartments €130-168). PJAGBKW hhhh

Tartini A-1, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. 671 10 00, info@

Tartinijev Trg

Hotels

Barbara Fiesa C-1, Fiesa 68, tel. 617 90 00, hotel.

barbara@siol.net, www.hotelbarbarafiesa.com. Nestled between a forest-covered hill and a small rocky bay about a kilometre east of town, with a conference centre, indoor salt water pool, fitness centre and seaside sports courts it’s the closest Piran has to a resort. The rooms are modern, comfortable and clean if not enormous, and all have balconies with views of either the sea or lake, though many are partially obstructed by trees. Be aware that its “beach” is little more than a narrow pile of rocks and some slabs of concrete, a fact that does little to discourage the sun worshippers during the summer. Q 42 rooms (singles €67-87, doubles €100-140). PHARFLKDC hhh

Fiesa C-1, Fiesa 57, tel. 671 22 00, hotel.fiesa@amis.

net, www.hotelfiesa.com. A friend once described this place to us as something of a Slovene Fawlty Towers, and after checking it out for ourselves we can’t say we entirely disagree. That being said the rooms are comfortable enough and, even with the premium you have to pay for a balcony and sea view, it’s cheaper than most other hotels in either Piran or Portorož. Not our first choice but a passable plan B during the high season or for budget-minded travellers who aren’t hard to please. Q (doubles €62-98, triples €88-94, quads €110-132, suites €162-200). PALK hhh

Max Korpusa 26, tel. 673 34 76/41 69 29 28, info@

maxpiran.com, www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q 6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh

Piran In Your Pocket

Val A-1, Gregorčičeva 38a, tel. 673 25 55, yhostel.

44 55 11, bbstudio@elcatel.si, miracolodimare.si/en/. This highly recommended bed and breakfast is at the south end of town only a couple streets away from where the intercity buses drop off. The rooms are simple but tastefully decorated and were all completely renovated just last year, however, some are larger than others so it might be a good idea to ask what’s available if yours seems a bit on the small side. Breakfast is served out back in a pleasant courtyard area, and the incredibly friendly owner can arrange all kinds of excursions and activities. Q 12 rooms (singles €50-55, doubles €60-70). PJAB hhh

In a town surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean there’s no prizes for guessing what the most prominent type of restaurant is - if you said Chinese please take a moment to consult a map. The waterfront promenade between the port and the lighthouse at Cape Madonna is seafood central with around a dozen eateries vying for your hard-earned euros. While they have varying levels of popularity amongst locals, tourists and guide books, their menus, prices and sea views are virtually the same and you can rest assured that during the high season empty tables are few and far between.

hotel-tartini-piran.com, www.hotel-tartini-piran.com. With apologies to several other worthy contenders, Tartini Square is without any question the finest urban space in all of Slovenia and for our money the views overlooking it from this adjacent hotel of the same name are the best in town - all the better that they come without the €10 premium charged for rooms with a sea view. Inside, the well-appointed rooms are warm and spacious, and the hotel’s lone suite and its private terrace are a great value if there is someone you’d like to impress. Q 45 rooms and 1 suite (singles €62-88, doubles €84-118, triples €114-162, suite €140-192). hhh

With so much action condensed in one place, a lot of visitors make the unfortunate mistake of overlooking the host of smaller family-run places hidden away down Piran’s windy side streets, back alleys and squares, which usually offer the same fresh expertly-prepared Mediterranean cuisine in a more relaxed intimate setting. We’ve listed some of our favourites here, but there are many more waiting to be found.

Hostels

behind a large stone cistern on the 1st of May Square, Fontana is the place to come if you’ve grown weary of seafood. Of course this being Piran fish is not absent from the menu entirely, but the focus here is on Balkan cuisine which generally means plates piled high with a variety of meat that has been spiced and grilled to perfection. Combination platters for two are a great value and will let you have a taste of everything. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Tue Closed during winter. (€5-16). PJAB

Alibi B11/B14 A-1, Bonifacijeva 11, tel. 031 363

666, info@alibi.si, www.alibi.si. Listed as two separate locations (as with all Alibi hostels the names are derived from the street addresses) but practically across the street from one another with reception at B11, they’re at the opposite end of town from where the buses drop off so be ready for an impromptu sightseeing tour on your way there. Recent renovations have left them looking great and thankfully seem to have taken care of earlier dampness and mould problems. Rooms on the top floors of each building have their own terraces, and all rooms at B14 are en suite. Q 21 rooms (doubles €40-50, quads €60-80). PJNW

Alibi T60 A-1, Trubarjeva 60, tel. 031 363 666, info@

alibi.si, www.alibi.si. Despite the name, with its five en suite double rooms and off-site reception this place is really a budget hotel annex, which is a good thing in our book. All rooms are priced the same but like the Alibi’s other two locations one has the added bonus of a private roof top terrace with stunning views. And although we obviously don’t encourage such dishonesty, resourceful groups of three on a tight budget can quite easily get away with throwing down a sleeping bag and having management be none the wiser. Q 5 rooms (doubles €50). PJN

www.inyourpocket.com piran.inyourpocket.com

International

Fontana A-1, Gallusova 2, tel. 673 12 00. Tucked away

Mediterranean

Altana A-1, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. 671 10 00. The best

thing about the restaurant inside Hotel Tartini is the same as the hotel itself: its location right on Tartini Square and the wonderful views this affords. The food on the extensive Mediterranean menu isn’t the best or cheapest in town, but even if you decide not to stay for dinner having a drink on the terrace overlooking the square is a must while you’re in Piran. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. (€6.5-24). PJAB

Delfin A-1, Kosovelova 4, tel. 673 24 48. A bit on the

scruffy side compared to some of the competition around the corner, Delfin does claim to be the oldest fish restaurant in town and has the unique distinction of being located in a 500 year old former municipal building. The food is also quite good - especially when accompanied by some cheap house wine - and the service friendly and unhurried, although our waiter didn’t seem overly amused when we tried to order dolphin (‘You don’t have dolphin? But isn’t delfin Slovene for dolphin?’). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€6-21). PJAB

piran.inyourpocket.com

Summer - Autumn 2009

piran

piran Galeb A-1, Pusterla 5, tel. 673 32 25. In the north of

town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front making guests feel at home as they crowd around a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more intimate dining experience. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00; 18:0023:00. (€5-19). JAG

Ivo A-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. 673 22 33. This place came

Cafés

highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who know a thing or two about quality cuisine, and we can’t say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear than some of the other places you pass along the promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly unlikely we’ll ever have to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB

Café Donat A-1, Prešernovo nabrežje 3. The only

Pavel & Pavel A-1, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. 674 71 02/674

Klet Cantina on Prvomajski Trg

non-seafood restaurant that dares to show its face on the waterfront south of the lighthouse, Donat is a great place to grab a coffee or beer if you want to experience the boisterous hustle and bustle of the main promenade but aren’t ready to settle in for a meal. However, be aware that you’ll be continually assaulted by mouthwatering smells wafting along in the gentle sea breeze. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B

Café Teater A-1, Kidričevo Nabrežje, tel. 041 63

89 33, www.piranjein.com. Housed in the golden yellow theatre building between Hotel Piran and the pier, Teater’s always busy terrace spills over onto the promenade where you can lounge atop comfy pillows and observe the comings and goings of the port. The café pulls double duty as the town’s premier nightspot, which would come highly recommended even if it had some competition. If that weren’t enough they also rent scooters and some fabulous apartments across the harbour. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PJAB

Caffe Bar Chris A/B-1, Tomšičeva 13. Just around

the corner from the Miracolo di Mare B&B at the south end of town, when the chairs and tables are brought in for the night you would be forgiven for mistaking it for a private residence. In fact, other than the laundry hanging overhead nothing really stands out about it all, which is why it’s a great place to grab a morning coffee and practice your rudimentary Slovene or Italian with the locals. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. JNB

Giuseppe B-1, Kajuhova 6. Against a crowded field

Guiseppe boasts by far the most comfortable seating on the central square - oversized wicker chairs and sofas with thick white cushions that can easily lead to an unplanned siesta on hot summer afternoons. The perfect place to relax in the shade and soak the atmosphere of Tartinijev Trg. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. JAB

Tartini Café A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. 673 33 81. In a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his name to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how this became the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an easy feat. In any event, housed in a beautiful building that was once the old town Loggia in the north corner of Tartini Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name - although it’s pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do seem a bit out of place. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Piran In Your Pocket

71 01, fax 674 71 00. This extremely popular family-run seafood restaurant is something of an institution on the waterfront of Piran. In order to accommodate the demand from both tourists and locals, they had to open a second location - the imaginatively named Pavel 2, lest there be any confusion - just a couple steps away. The covered outdoor dining area is close enough to the sea to catch your own dinner, although it’s probably a better idea to just enjoy the superb view and leave the angling to old Pavel. But most importantly the food actually manages to back up its oversized reputation, and may even necessitate a return visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. TJAUBK

Pirat A-1, Župančičeva 26, tel. 673 14 81. A quieter alternative for those who would like to avoid the omnipresent crowds at the main clutch of seafood places on Prešernovo Nabrežje but still fancy a proper plate of fish with views of the water, although in this case that water is the port rather than the open sea. There are usually a couple of daily specials sans fish for around €7, but prices tend to be on par with those at its higher volume competition on the other side of town. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€5.5-18). PJAB

Riva A-1, Prešernovo Nabrežje 6, tel. 673 22 25, info@

riva.si, riva.primorska.com. The last in a long line of waterfront fish places stretching from the port towards the lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula, it’s also one of the best. The décor has a slightly more sophisticated air about it than some of the neighbours, and the menu even has a couple of token Balkan dishes thrown in to prevent a complete fish, pasta and pizza monopoly. Carafes of drinkable table wine for only €8 a litre also make sticking around for drinks after an especially filling meal an attractive option. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5-19). PJAB

Verdi A-1, Verdijeva 20, tel. 673 27 37. During the warmer

months the tiny interior is supplemented by a huge outdoor dining area that commandeers the better part of a small square around the corner and more than triples capacity. The prices and selection are similar to the waterfront places, but the service is a little more attentive and personable. The seafood spaghetti for two comes highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Wed Closed during winter. (€6-20).

piran.inyourpocket.com piran.inyourpocket.com

Pizza

Batana Kidričevo Nabrežje 4, tel. 676 25 17. Batana is a

type of small traditional fishing boat widely used in the Adriatic and an appropriate name given its location opposite the town’s inner harbour where countless Batana boats are moored. The restaurant serves up a variety of cheap tasty pizzas from underneath St George’s gate on the back side of the enormous municipal courthouse. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€5-6.5). PJABS

Pizzeria Tartini A/B-1, Gortanova 1, tel. 673 16 13. Yet another Piran establishment bearing the name Tartini, this small pizzeria has a great location on sleepy Bratstva Trg just outside Porto Marciana, one of the well-preserved gates in the city’s former defensive wall. Despite the name, the menu has a bit of everything with pizzas only accounting for a couple pages, but to honest for us the food is something of an afterthought given the charming setting. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€5-12). JAB

Wine Bars

Klet Cantina A-1, Prvomajski Trg, tel. 673 32 75. For a

healthy dose of old world charm there’s nowhere better than this tiny wine bar hidden beneath a canopy of grape vines on the 1st of May Square. This place has so much character you’ll wish you could bottle some up and smuggle it home in your hand baggage. Light meat and cheese plates are available if you linger long enough to drink up an appetite. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€5-8). JB

What to see Not much of an effort needs to be made to go sightseeing in Piran, in fact quite the opposite is true: it would take a Herculean feat to avoid seeing the town’s wealth of sights. In addition to a lengthy must-see list of churches, squares and palaces, there are countless less-heralded sights to be enjoyed. Piran’s cobbled backstreets and alleyways are literally lined with statues, arches, coats of arms, intricately carved doors and stately old villas just waiting to imprint themselves in visitors’ memories. The region’s long seafaring tradition is also well-represented at two nautical themed museums, and a number of art galleries - both public and private - hold regular exhibitions. Piran is easily covered on foot, although a hike up to the cathedral and further on to the remaining section of the old town wall is enough to leave us in need of a cold beer and a siesta, especially during the summer. Also be aware that many of the museums and galleries keep shorter hours in the winter, some even open by appointment only, so if you visit during the low season it’s always a good idea to drop by the helpful tourist office for all the latest information.

Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1. Already arguably

the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other, the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday.

Town Hall A-1, Tartinijev Trg 2. The modern town hall

dominates the northern end of Tartinijev Trg and is the administrative centre of the Municipality of Piran, which includes the nearby towns of Portorož, Strunjan and Lucija. It was originally built by the Venetians shortly after their arrival at the end of the 13th century, but was torn down in 1877 and rebuilt in a more contemporary style. Several statues and coats of arms that adorned the original building are on display in the atrium.

Town Wall Piran’s town walls were built and rebuilt in various

stages over the better part of a millennia, originally enclosing only the area west of Tartinijev Trg but later expanded to include the entire peninsula. Completed near the end of the 15th century the best preserved section is to the east of the city centre on Morgoron Hill, which has been reopened to the public after recent renovations and offers the best terrestrial views of the entire town, albeit it at an angle that slightly distorts the length of the peninsula. Seven well-preserved gates encompassing different architectural styles are still in existence. Our favourite is Marciana Gate on Bratstva Trg, which features the winged lion of St Mark scowling mightily but holding open a book as a symbol of peace.

Venetian House A-1, Tartinijev Trg 4. One of the best

examples of Gothic Venetian architecture in Piran, the unmistakeable red palace was built in the middle of the 15th century and is the oldest residence still standing on Tartinijev Trg. According to local legend it was commissioned by a wealthy Venetian merchant in order to prove strength of his love to a beautiful young Piranese girl and win over the less than supportive townspeople. We don’t want to ruin the ending for you, but they can probably fill you in on the details if you ask at the Piranske Soline gift shop that now occupies the ground floor.

Essential

1st of May Square (Prvomajski Trg) A-1. The adminis-

trative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one façade unintentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flanking the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two allegorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic.

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Regata day in Piran

Summer - Autumn 2009

Koper

piran PORTAFORTUNA, Tartinijev Trg, Piran

The somewhat kitsch slogan used by Slovenia’s neighbours to describe their coastline is “the Mediterranean as it used to be.” Slovenians are more clever than that. That’s why one local of the gorgeous seaside town of Koper told Koper In Your Pocket that the Slovenian coast is in fact, simply, “the Mediterranean as it is.” Brilliant, as is Koper, a town of not all that many people just an hour from Ljubljana, yet in attitude and outlook it might just as well be one million miles away. If Ljubljana reeks of Austrian influence, Koper is Slovenia’s Italian connection. “It’s Slovenia, Jim, but not as we know it.”

Sintyan Shop

OPEN - EVERY DAY 9.00-21.00 Churches

Church of St Peter A-1, Tartinijev Trg 8. The only church on Tartinijev Trg, the relatively diminutive St Peter has roots going all the way back to 1272, but took its present classical form in 1818. An exquisite relief above the main entrance depicts Christ bestowing the keys to the Heavenly Kingdom upon Peter.

St Francis Church & Monastery B-1, Bolniška 20. Up

the hill to the west of Tartinijev Trg, the church and monastery complex dates back to the beginning of the 14th century, but has seen its fair share of changes over the years. During the summer months, concerts are often in held in the monastery’s splendid atrium, and in the basement there is a fine collection of paintings by mostly unknown Venetian artists, which was only opened to the public in 1997. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 17:00-20:00.

St George Cathedral B-1, Adamičeva 6. Watching

over the town and visible from nearly every open space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Piran’s patron saint, the dragon slayin g youn g knight from Capadoccia, George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th century the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George himself made an appearance in order to motivate the the citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the most impressive churches in Slovenia.

Museums & Galleries

Sergej Mašera Maritime Museum A-1, Cankarjevo

Nabrežje 3, tel. 671 00 40, muzej@pommuz-pi.si, www. pommuz-pi.si. Named for a young sailor from Gorica who was killed during World War II and later declared a national hero, the museum’s collection is dedicated to the maritime-related history of the north Adriatic, including detailed exhibitions of

Piran In Your Pocket

Slovene naval history and the local fishing trade. It’s housed in the 19th century Gabrielli Palace located on the inner harbour near Tartinijev Trg. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 18:00-21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2.5/3.5 for students/adults.

Wandering around its Old Town, all narrow streets and Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you had indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as liable to hear Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are Italian signs everywhere, and it’s all a reminder that the border between one country and another has never really mattered all that much in these parts. Always something of a blur, it disappeared forever two years ago when Slovenia joined the Schengen block.

Tartini House A-1, Tartinijev Trg 7. Originally going by the

name ‘Casa Pizagrua’ this somewhat modest palace next to St Peter’s Church on the eastern side Tartinijev Trg was the birthplace of the composer - and namesake of roughly half of Piran - Giuseppe Tartini. It underwent extensive renovations in the late 1980s and is now home to the main offices of the Italian Community in Piran. There is also a small museum on the first floor displaying, among other things, one of the master’s violins, his death mask and various letters, manuscripts and scores.

The Museum of Under water Activities A-1,

Župančičeva 24, tel. 041 68 53 79, info@muzejpodvodnihdejavnosti.si, www.muzejpodvodnihdejavnosti. si. This somewhat awkwardly named museum is a must see for diving aficionados, or at least we would assume so. The small space gives a fairly thorough overview of the history diving and diving related activities in and around the region, from shipwrecks and rescue diving up to submarines and contemporary sport diving. If you’re walking along the harbour towards the centre of town you can’t miss the mannequins outside sporting antique diving gear. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00; 16:00-20:00.

Koper’s old town

Souvenirs

Tourist Information

sara@gmail.com. This gift shop cum art gallery on Tartinijev Trg is packed with an eclectic mix of handmade arts and crafts that are a welcome alternative to your typical run-ofthe-mill souvenirs. Of course we couldn’t figure out what a lot of items had to do with Piran (or Europe for that matter), but they made for interesting browsing nonetheless. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Turist Information Centre Koper L-10, Titov

Portafortuna Tartinijev Trg, tel. 051 270 460, rapiran.

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Koper, the oldest town in Slovenia, developed on a rocky island with the Roman name Capris. Out of the three oldest cities on the Slovene coast (Koper, Izola, Piran), Koper has experienced the most numerous layout modifications. The reasons for that also need to be sought in the changes of various reigns and states, all of which marked the city with their specific traits and names. Koper was called Capris in Roman times, in the times of Pope Gregory I (599) Insula Capraria (“goat island”), Iustinopolis under the Byzantine Empire (between mid 6th and 8th centuries) and Caput Histriae (‘head of Istria’) by the Aquileia Patriarchs. The Venetians translated this name into Italian, Capodistria, while in Slovenian it’s known simply as Koper. The longest reign over the city was that of the Venetian Republic (1279-1797), when Koper experienced economic (trade, salt production) and cultural prosperity (painting, music). The Venetian period is still echoed by the city’s architecture; despite numerous modern interventions, it has preserved its medieval character, and is a member of the European Association of Medieval Cities. In the Middle Ages, Koper was an island surrounded by walls and connected to the mainland with a wooden bridge in the direction of Škocjan. It was protected by a mighty fortress - Lion Castle - and surrounded by vast salt pans. Koper’s importance began to diminish in the 18th century, when Trieste was proclaimed a free port, and ultimately ended with the downfall of the Venetian Republic. In the period from the 19th century to the First World War (i.e. from the Napoleonic Empire 1806-1813 to the Hapsburg Monarchy 1813-1918), Koper experienced numerous changes in terms of economic and social development. This period was marked by the reduction of the salt pans, which were entirely abandoned in 1912, and the changing layout of the city, which began to lose its island character. In 1825, a second road connection with the mainland was constructed (Semedela Road) followed by the coastal road in the middle 19th century, a sea connection with Trieste-Poreč and the railway connection Trieste-Poreč in 1902. Under the Italian Empire, Koper ceased to be an island after the deserted salt pans that separated it from the mainland were drained.

Town Gallery Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. 671 20 80, info@obalne-galerije.si, www.obalne-galerije.si. Above Café Tartini on the main square, Piran’s most important art space hosts a range of exhibitions throughout the year including the popular Ex-Tempore of Piran, which brings together upwards of 500 artists from Central and Eastern Europe annually. Unfortunately, their website is a little light on information - in English or otherwise - so it’s probably best to enquire about upcoming exhibitions at the nearby tourist centre or via email. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.

Shopping

History

Trg 3, tel. 664 64 03, tic@koper.si, www.koper.si. Q March-September 09:00-20:00, Sunday 13:00-20:00 October-February: 09:00-17:00, Sunday 13:00-17:00

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The time after the Second World War brought further changes. Until the final determination of the border with Italy through the signing of the London Memorandum in 1954, when it officially became part of Yugoslavia, Koper was part of Zone B administered by the Yugoslav national Army, first belonging to the Julian March and from September 1947 to the neutral state called the Free Trieste Territory (FTT). As part of Yugoslavia, Koper experienced profound changes in its national structure. This also brought about new architectural interventions both in the city centre and its surroundings, especially in terms of huge development with the construction of a modern port. Today, Koper is both an commercial, university and tourist city, offering seaside resorts, nautical tourism, sports and shopping.

Summer - Autumn 2009

Koper Where to stay There is not a great deal of choice when it comes to sleeping in Koper: most of the hotels are a much of a muchness, and when it comes to Old Town hotels there is basically no choice at all. A good option if an Old Town address is a must (and it should be) is to try and bag an apartment. A number of agencies will rent you well-furnished though often small apartments right in the city centre.

Events 6, 13, 20, 27 July, 21:30, Summer film nights, Taverna,Koper/ Capodistria 2, 9, 16, 23 ,30 July Concerts of classic music Tartini Junior- Atrium of Preatorian Palace

€70-100

6-11 July Theatre Workshop – Koper

00, fax 610 03 09, zusterna@terme-catez.si, info@ terme-catez.si. A short bus ride out of town, this smart hotel right on the coast where the biggest draw is the enormous swimming pool, which features a wave machine, slides and a large area for children to splash around in. Most of the decent rooms have a sea or swimming pool view, and though not winning any design awards they are colourful, smart and cost about the same as a number of other places not fit to lace its boots. Excellent value all round. Q 114 rooms, 2 suites and 1 apartment (singles €71-79, doubles €55-63).. PTHARUFLGBKDC hhh

10-11 July DISCONAUTICA- Koper

Aquapark hotel Žusterna Istrska 67, tel. 610 03

BIO Vanganelska, tel. 625 88 84, fax 625 88 85, info@hotel-bio.si, www.hotel-bio.si. In the newer part of town, some way from the Old Town (but accessible by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a budget. Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money. There’s an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving local specialities. Q 29 rooms (singles €38-53, doubles €57-79, triples €76). PTHAR6LGBKW hhh

Dijaški in študentski dom M-10, Cankarjeva 5, tel.

662 62 50, fax 662 62 51, ddkoper-recepcija@guest. arnes.si. Koper’s Youth Hostel is a student dorm that benefits from an Old Town location. Accommodation is in triples, while toilet facilities are shared. Book in advance as it often packs out with school or other groups who block book the rooms. Q Open July -August 100 rooms. TRLKW

Garni hotel Pristan N-10/11, Ferrarska 30, tel. 614

40 00, fax 566 00 16, hotel@luka-kp.si, pristan-koper. si. Though it looks less than promising from the outside, this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the default choice of the business classes. It’s spick, span, and the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms are great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the staff are both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages. Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is no extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserving or checking in. Q 10 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77, doubles €60, triples €50). PJHAULGBKDCW hhhh

Vodišek M-12, Kolodvorska 2, tel. 639 24 68/041 634 877, fax 639 36 68, info@hotel-vodisek.com, www. hotel-vodisek.com. About half-way between the Old Town and the bus and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget choice. Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you find your way around their town. The terrace café gets busy with locals and appears to be a centre of gossip. All adds to the fun of staying here. Note the reception is around the back, through the shopping mall.Q 31 rooms (singles €59, doubles 88, triples €107)44,2544,35. THR6ULBK hhh

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11 July During the afternoon Ball wih the band Dan PonjerGradin 18 July, 21:00 14th Festival of new rock and folk songs- Taverna, Koper 19 July, 18:00 In the sign of Ancaran’s nights- At the courtyard of TA Ankaran 25 July, 08:00 I n ter n a t i o n a l r e g a t t a A n ka r a n 2 0 0 9 - Pi er Valdoltra 4, 11, 18, 25 August, 19:00 Koper –Streets are telling- Koper / Capodistria 5, 12, 19 August, 21:00 Jazz Etno Funky Festival – JEFF- Regional museum of Koper 6 August, Evening Mozart, welcome to Koper- Saint Ann cloisters 15 August, 10:00-19:00 Medieval open market, Adria Ancarano 21-23 August, 09:00 Show jumping- Bonifika Koper 30 August, 19:00 Closing concert of the wind orchestra- Carpaccio square, Koper 10 September, 19:00 Exhibition and sale of small statues- Gallery Meduza 11-12 September Istria in heart-Koper 12-13 September, 07:30 18th international regatta of kayak and canoeAdria Ancarano 3 October 5th expedition on the route« Dekani -Tinjan Dekani 2-11 November Traditional Martinmas- Vinakoper

Summer - Autumn 2009

koper

Where to eat Koper, like all of the Slovenian coast, is blessed with some wonderful fish and seafood restaurants. In fact, if you are not all that into wet treats then you may well struggle, as that’s all Koper really knows how to do. Look out for Koper style fast food too, Okrepčevalnica bars: small, Italianstyle places which serve great food of the primo, secondo piatti variety at lunchtime. You can usually eat very well here for a fraction of the cost of a restaurant.

Fast Food

Okrepčevalnica - Fast food M-10, Trg Brolo 5, tel. 031

654 082. Sticking to old idiom ‘do one thing and do it well’ this fast food hatch serves cracking panini of various types to just about everyone who passes and smells them. The queues speak for themselves. There’s another branch just around the corner on Cevljarska. Both outlets have two small tables inside if you don’t fancy eating on the move. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JLNGBK

Fish

Manta M-10, Bazoviška 4a, tel. 031 701 331, info@

restaurant-manta.si, restaurant-manta.si. Fish and seafood (what else!) restaurant on a terrace above the harbour. Below are various other cafés and restaurants, but this is perhaps the most upmarket. Doesn’t look like much from outside but the food is terrific and service friendly.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTJALGBK

Skipper L-9, Kopališko nabrežje 3, tel. 626 18 10, emil.

horvat@siol.net, www.skipper-koper.com. The seamen’s and sailor’s choice, the highlight of this place in the heart of the harbour is the raised terrace overlooking the marina and shipyards. Expect to dine very well on huge pieces of fresh fish caught that day. Wash it down with a couple of the great local wines on the menu. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Holidays 11:00-22:00 JAGBK

Cafés Koper does coffee and cafes very well indeed. While few serve anything approaching the cheapest coffee in Slovenia (in fact, some places might well serve the most expensive),where else are you going to find views like this?

Bar Bonaco K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. 040 232

601. Slightly cheaper and more down to earth alternative to Café Mercato on the other side of the market. You are more likely to find the costermongers themselves here enjoying a sly coffee and cigarette before heading back to their stalls. Our fave café/bar in town for its sheer authenticity. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. JAGB

International

Istrska klet Slavček L-11, Župančičeva 39, tel.

627 67 29. Fantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as deep fried squid in batter served as appetisers or simple snacks for the many locals who come here for lunch or an early dinner. There is also for once a good non-fish menu: check the daily specials on the blackboard, like the brilliant minestrone soup. Super location too, and plenty of outside seating. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (€3-9.5). JULGBK

La Storia Trattoria L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. 626 20 18, lastoria-kpping@t-2.net, w w w.lastoria.si. Excellent value fish and pizza on the seafront strip that is Pristaniska. Covered terrace means you can sit here and enjoy your huge pizzas even when it rains. Big salads, generous ice creams and smiling waitresses. A winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (€7-45). PJA6UGBK

Okrepčevalnica Pr Bepča L-11, Čevljarska 36, tel.

627 20 52. Easily the best place to eat lunch in Koper. A friendly, English speaking owner cooks up big pots of roast potatoes, fresh fish and grilled veggies daily. It’s self-service, order, take a seat then go back for your tray. Tito watches over proceedings from a place of honour behind the counter. Take away too. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. TJAGKS

Pizza

Pizzeria Atrij L-10, Čevljarska 8, tel. 627 15 17/031

390 446. You need to make a bit of an effort to find this place. Though the address is Čevljarska (Old Town Koper’s main street) it is in fact found in a small alley off the street. Do find it though, because it’s a brilliant little pizzeria that reminds you just how close to Italy we really are. Cheap as chips too. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. JAUGBK

Pizzeria Park K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. 626 10 25/041 681 844, info@restavracija-park.com, pizzeriapark-koper. com. They’ve a genuine wood fired clay oven here and they aren’t afraid to boast about it. Terrific pizza cooked in minutes and whisked to your table by efficient staff. Drinks well priced, including - we think - the cheapest beer on this little seafront strip. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JGBK

Pizzerija Pri Vodnjaku L-11, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. 040

295 000. Huge pizzas are served by efficient staff to chattering locals who sit at the big wooden tables and talk to whoever they find. It’s that kind of place. Very friendly indeed, the conversation makes up for the fact that this is not the most picturesque square in Koper’s Old Town. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. JAUGBK

Nightlife

Internet Café

Bars

fax 630 03 21, info@pina.info, www.pina.info. Great internet café on a quiet street in Old Town with fantastic, new computers and fast internet connections. Prices are dirt cheap, the only gripe we would have is that coffee is from a machine only (and a machine which it took us ten minutes to understand how to operate). Note this is the only internet café we found in Old Town. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJRGW

3, tel. 630 87 92. In the newer part of Koper, around the Vodisek hotel, this place is a lively bar that does not attract speeding bikers, but does attract the city’s students. Indeed, it attracts hundreds of them most evenings, so expect a lively time a very friendlt bunch of people. The beer is good, cold and cheap, and service as prompt as you would expect. There’s half-decent pizza too if you’re hungry. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. JALEGBK

E Kavarna @ Pina L-10, Kidričeva 43, tel. 627 80 72,

Koper In Your Pocket

Bikers Speed Pub L-12, Cesta Zore Perello - Godina

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izola

koper Café Calypso L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. 626 28 73/040 888 697, igor.lazar@volja.net. Makes up, along with Kavarna Kapitanija and La Storia, something of an ‘around Ukmarjev Trg’; trinity of trendy cafes and cocktail bars. Almost within touching distance of the boats moored in the marina this place is a veritable trend-fest of expensive sunglasses, Lacoste polo shirts and soft leather shoes. Italians think they do fashion well? Come here and you’ll be convinced they have nothing on Slovenes. Q JAUGBKX

Kavarna Kapitanija K-10, Ukmarjev Trg 8, tel. 059 942 469/040 799 000, kapitanija@siol.net. Rivals La Storia as the trendiest café and bar in town. The local sunglasses crowd love it, and to get a place on one of the funky red or yellow sofas at the front you will need to be here very early during the day or turn up in the latest convertible with a gorgeous man or woman on your arm. By day café it becomes a bar in the evening and for sheer posing value there’s nowhere in town to beat it. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. TJAGBK

Lord Byron L-11, Repičeva 2. Koper’s one real pub is

tucked away on one of the narrowest, quietest streets in Old Town, and is all the better for it. A couple of tables out on the street fill up quick, but the real charm of this place is inside: it’s Old England in Old Koper without even trying. Besides Guinness and ales in bottles, there’s some good pub grub on the menu too.

What to see Koper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of coming here is to wander its streets, often getting lost, mixing with locals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers. Old Town’s main street - if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two or three metres wide in places, and is packed from dawn to dusk when it, like most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljarska leads down towards the town’s main square, Titov Trg, which is dominated by the bell tower of the St. Mary’s of the Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper. Originally Gothic, built in the 12th century, the cathedral has been much changed since, and now possesses something of a Neo-Renaissance appearance. Perhaps the most astonishing building on the square however is the bizarrely hacienda-like Praetorian Palace, the seat of the city’s governor during the Venetian Republic. It’s sublime loggia is the highlight, and the interior is given over to the city’s excellent Tourist Information Centre, and to temporary art exhibitions.

Beach

Mestno Kopališče Koper K-9, Kopališko nabrežje 1,

tel. 627 81 78. Koper’s small pebble beach lacks sand, but is a lovely place to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm (depending on the time of year of course…) water. You will find it on Kopalisko Nabreze, next to the marina. There are large areas of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming area. Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim off out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms, showers, children’s playgrounds, a restaurant and a café.

Galleries

Galerija Meduza L-11, Čevljarska 34, tel. 627 48 37. An excellent collection of contemporary art by various local artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly staff will help with onward shipping should you require. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Koper In Your Pocket

Muzejska Galerija L-10, Kidričeva 21, tel. 663 35 70. Part of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door), the gallery museum presents changing exhibitions of various interest throughout the year. When we last visited the current exhibition was a superb presentation of the role of profane art and music in Venetian society. Check the gallery’s website for details of current exhibitions.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right.

Museums

Koper Regional Museum L-10, Kidričeva 19, tel. 663

35 70, pmk-kp@guest.arnes.si. Housed inside a wonderful Venetian Palace (and far more interesting than the exhibitions inside), the Koper Regional Museum prsenets a rather dull history of Koper, Izola and Piran. There’s precious little to actually see, though there are some rather nice paintings to admire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour. Q Sep-Jun Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug: 09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:00-21:00, Mon closed.

20 June Mikijev & Vladov Memorial – Izola 30 June-5 July Eurofest- Izola, Koper 24 June, 4 July, 18 July Noči na plaži( Kingston-Vlado Kresnil , Siddharta)Simonov zaliv

Casino Carnevale Spodnje Škofije 259, tel. 654 05

40, fax 654 96 82, info@casinocarnevale.com, www. casinocarnevale.com. Located north of Koper only 150 metres from the border, this Venice-themed casino has been tempting Italians to head south for over a decade. There is an assortment of slot machines and roulette tables covering two clean brightly-lit floors, and three dimensional murals on the walls and ceiling add some depth to the interior and complete the classic Venetian villa motif, which includes a gondola that doubles as a roulette table. If it’s your lucky night you can enjoy some complimentary champagne while riding to your next destination in the casino’s own limousine, and even if it’s not you can at least get some comfort from the complimentary buffet. Q Open 24hrs No admission. POAULGKW

2-4 July MIFF 2009- Lonka 7-19 July Plesni kampus 2009 11 July PUFF v Izoli- Pietro Coppo, Lonka 12 July FENS 2009- Lonka 25 July-1 August Evropski mladinski kongres- Izola

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13-22 August OFF 2009 - Oboa fagot festival- Park Pietro Coppo in Riviera (concert durring day) Manziolijeva palača ter Manziolijev trg (big concerts)

Shopping To be honest, nobody really comes to Koper to shop, but that does not mean that there are no retail opportunities. market is on Pristaniska ulica, opposite the hotel Koper. It is open seven days a week from around 06:30, and the stallholders offer a wide variety of local and imported produce, as well as the local staple, fish. Indeed, the fish section (find it at the back, inside) is the highlight of coming here. Arrive before 10:00 and you will see almost every fish native to these parts for sale, often at incredibly cheap prices.

Mercator Center Koper Kolodvorska 4, tel. 662

69 04, www.mercator.si. Enormous Mercator hypermarket half way between the Old Town and the station. You will find everything you could possibly need, and more besides. Has a great fish counter as you would expect in these parts. Most local buses stop here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Izola’s accommodation options can be roughly divided into two main categories: private apartments in and around the old city centre and larger resort-style hotels to the south and west of the modern marina on the other side of town. Exceptions include the wonderful Marina Hotel situated right next to the old fishing port and the Stara Šola Hostel in the secluded hill town of Korte, which is actually closer to Croatia than Izola but still manages to be part of the town’s greater municipal district.

Events

Around Koper

Koper Market K-L/11, Pristaniška 2. Koper’s main

Where to stay

3- 10 September Združene igre narodov- Izola The old fishing port in Izola

Tourist Information Tourist information J- 6, Sončno nabrežje 4

- Riva del sole 4, tel. 640 10 50, fax 640 10 52, tic.izola@izola.si, www.izola.eu. Q September- June: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-12:00 July- August: 08:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-17:00, Sunday 10:00-17:00

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12 September Diplomatska regata, Marina Izola 22-27 September Izola boat show 2009- Marina Izola September Ribiški praznik

Film Festivals

Kino Otok Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. 641 48 01/616

21 40, info@isolacinema.org, www.isolacinema. org. After a two year hiatus, the Kino Otok film festival is returning strong for its fifth instalment between 10-14 September 2009. This largely open air event is a must see as much for the great selection of international films as the laid-back atmosphere of Izola’s old town. Check out the festival website for more details.

Summer - Autumn 2009

izola

Upmarket

Hostels

belvedere.si, www.belvedere.si/index_eng.php. One of Izola’s most upmarket options is actually situated a few kilometres away, on a bluff overlooking the town and Gulf of Trieste. The complex’s leafy grounds contain a central hotel along with several smaller villas and a large oddly phallicshaped swimming pool, while the rooms themselves come with all the standard four-star amenities and most also have balconies. It’s quite a hike up the hill if you’re without your own transport - although public buses do ply the route with some frequency during the week and there is no shortage of taxis. Q PA6ILKCW

889, info@hostel-starasola.si, www.hostel-starasola. si/eng. This beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great option for those who would prefer the charms of a peaceful countryside village to the more tourist-centric coastal towns, although it definitely helps to have your own transport as Korte is actually closer to the Croatian frontier than Izola or Portorož. Brightly coloured private rooms and dormitories are reasonably priced especially for larger groups and longer stays, and the surrounding hills, villages and vineyards are just begging to be explored by bike, foot or horseback. Q 17 rooms & 2 apartments (dorms €20-24, doubles €40-48, quads €68-84, apartments €80-100). A6LW

Belvedere Dobrava 1a, tel. 660 51 00, belvedere@

Marina I-6, Veliki Trg 11, tel. 660 41 00, fax 660 44 10,

infoping@hotelmarina.si, www.hotelmarina.si/index. php?id=51. Aside from private apartments, the Marina is pretty much your only option if you want to stay right in the centre of the old town, luckily it’s also one of the best. Perched right above the fishing port, it’s perfectly situated to soak up all of Izola’s rich history. The rooms are not huge but they’re all incredibly comfortable and well-equipped, and about half have balconies with sea views - although they come at a significant premium. The multi-lingual staff is friendly and helpful, especially when it comes to making travel arrangements, suggesting excursions or answering random questions. Q 52 rooms (singles €59-115, doubles €99-144, suites €135-261). hhh

Mid-range

Delfin I-7, Tomažičeva 10, tel. 660 70 00, delfin.

recepcija@siol.net, www.hotel-delfin.si/ang/uvodna. htm. Located right next to the marina, it’s not the most modern hotel in town, but with a heated outdoor sea water pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach it’s probably the best option for those wanting to spend a significant amount of their time in the water. The clientèle seems to be a bit on the grey-haired side, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding some stiff competition on the hotel’s bocce courts. Q 219 rooms (singles €45-64, doubles €76-114). PTALBKC

Garni Keltika L-8, Jagodje 1, tel. 641 97 77, info@kel-

tika.si, www.keltika.si/en/index.php. Located in Jagodje, a bit up the hill from the beach and San Simon resort, it’s a comfortable enough place though a tad on the expensive side for what you get - especially if you’re staying alone or for less than two nights. An extra €5 will guarantee you a balcony, and outside of the high season you can sometimes stay three nights for the price of two during the week. Q (singles €3660, doubles €48-82). PTA6LW

San Simon H-8, Morova 6a, tel. 660 31 00, fax 641

84 02, simonov.zaliv@sansimon.si, www.sansimon.si. Owned by the same group that operates that massive St Barnardin complex in nearby Portorož, the San Simon resort is a comparatively modest affair with some 200 three- and four-star rooms contained in two separate hotels and five smaller buildings that are befitting of Izola’s more laid back appeal. Aside from accommodation the complex’s green sloping grounds include a restaurant, tennis courts, a private beach, a newly built wellness centre and spa, and a rather sad looking night club. Q PTLKD

www.inyourpocket.com Izola In Your Pocket

Stara Šola Korte Korte 74, tel. 642 11 14/031 375

Apartments

Apartments Keltika J-6, Kosovelova 31, tel. 641 97

77, fax 641 97 76, info@keltika.si, www.keltika.si/en/. One of the few accommodation options in the old part of town, six separate apartments are contained in a single building only steps away from St Mauer church. Recent renovations have added all the modern amenities, but they are relatively Spartan in terms of furnishings and if you plan on using either the air conditioning or heating it’ll cost you an extra €8 per day. When making a booking be sure to request the ‘Yellow Apartment’ as it sleeps an extra person and also has a large terrace with great views. Also note that check-in is across town at the main hotel in Jagodje. Q PJA

Shark Apartments J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 3, tel. 031

600 998, boris.k2@siol.net. You’ll find this café on your left hand side amongst the copious foliage on 1st of May Avenue, only a short walk from the central post office where buses drop off. They can arrange rooms and apartments in and around town, but it’s always a good idea to call ahead, especially in the high season.

Turistična Agency Bele Skale J-6, Cankarjev Drevored

2, tel. 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si/index_eng.php. Can arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, although be aware that the former are often in short supply and there is a strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even if you’re in town doing research for a guide book), so advanced booking is must. They also offer various excursions as far afield as Venice, and boat trips lasting from 3 hours to an entire day.

Fast Food Veni J-6/7, Postojnska 11, tel. 641 63 33,

info@fastfoodveni.com, www.fastfoodveni.com. With barely enough room for more than a couple people to step inside, this take away place is so no-nonsense that drinks are served via an ordinary vending machine. Churns out the usual fast food fare of burgers, fries and pizza by the slice for the lowest prices in town, but you get what you pay for. It’s considerably more appetising with a pair of beer goggles on. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Chinese

Jade I-8, Jagodje 2, tel. 640 15 88. The only Chinese

Where to eat There are a number of great fish and seafood places, especially along the waterfront and old port areas, but given the significant role that fishing has played in the town’s history it’s perhaps a little surprising how many options there are for those who find themselves in the mood for something that originated on good old terra firma. Prices are more or less the same at the majority of touristfriendly places (i.e. multi-lingual menus and set price multicourse meals), but there are a handful of no-nonsense budget options if you’re feeling light in the wallet.

Fast Food

Bumerang J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 3, tel. 641 56 38.

The most centrally-located of the city’s few Kebap joints, it must be a popular place since it had already run out of spindled meat by the time we came by to enjoy one of our artery-assaulting guilty pleasures. So instead we had to settle for big cup of ice cream next door. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€3-5.5).

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restaurant in town is pretty much the only ethnic food option around as well, depending on your definition. Located on the corner of a busy crossroads in Jagodje, its faux Asian roof helps it stand out from the modern shops and apartment blocks nearby. The food itself is nothing extraordinary, but then again, with no competition it doesn’t really have to be. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€4-14). PJALS

International

Gostilna Korte Korte 44, tel. 642 02 00/41 60 78 63,

gostilnakorte@siol.net, www.gostilnakorte.si/. Locals and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine at this traditional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the mood to eat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.

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Gušt J-6/7, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. 041 67 59

53/041 65 03 33, gustizola@volja.net. One of several places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliver to most nearby areas. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19). JABS

Istra J-6, Trg Republike 1, tel. 641 80 58. Right on the

main roundabout leading into the old part of town, this noisy place is not quite as seafood-oriented as the strip of restaurants along the water, and is also slightly less expensive with daily set menus starting at €7. As the name not-so-subtly suggests, they specialise in Istrian cuisine, which is known for its different varieties of truffles. It can get quite packed at the weekend when there is often live music courtesy of a costumed gentleman and his accordion. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€4-13). E

Kamin Dobrava 1a, tel. 660 56 66, belvedere@ belvedere.si, www.belvedere.si/english/restavracijakamin.php. Located within the Hotel Belvedere on a bluff overlooking the town, the views from its terrace are second to none, although on days when the weather necessitates eating inside the dining area is pleasant enough with a central fireplace and high ceilings. As with most upmarket hotels the food is a bit overpriced but generally excellent, especially the grilled dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAILB

Summer - Autumn 2009

izola Seafood

Parangal J-6, Sončno Nabrežje 20, tel. 641 74 40/041

67 38 46, linda.international@siol.net. Offers all kinds of meats, pastas, pizzas and traditional Istrian cuisine, but don’t be fooled - this is a place you come to for one reason only: seafood. Not the cheapest option in town, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise given its location and reputation. There’s also a large courtyard which has something of a tropical flavour to it and is a good place for a drink with or without food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-24). TJABS

Sidro J-6, Sončno nabrežje 24, tel. 641 47 11, n.godina@

Izola Cultural Centre

Mediterraneo I-7, Tomažičeva ulica 4A, tel. 641 74 44,

info@mediterraneo.si, www.mediterraneo.si. Located inside the modern marina to the west of the city centre, this new addition to Izola’s culinary scene is in a class of its own when it comes to trendy upmarket dining - we don’t recall seeing much abstract contemporary art at other places around town. The menu leans heavily on modern Italian cuisine with seafood of course taking centre stage. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. PAL

Pizza

Pizzeria Odeon J-7, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. 41 82 70

39. Connected to the city’s tiny but reputable single screen cinema, this place is equal parts pizzeria and coffee house. Its street side seating area is a great place to watch people amble along the leafy boulevard, and one of the world’s quaintest police stations is housed in a pink villa directly opposite. Our seafood pizza was a bit on the soggy side, but came piled high with all kinds of salt-water creatures. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (€4-7). JABS

Coffee & Cakes Café Alle Porte J-6, Koprska 1. At the conver-

gence of two windy back streets near the the fruit and vegetable market on Etbina Kristana Trg, this picture perfect little café is one of our favourite places to meet for a coffee, and the softly-lit cosy interior is a great place to lounge around in with a good book or a stack of postcards during the colder months. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Kavarna Galerija Zvon I-8, Morova 25b, tel. 641 60 43. We’re not sure about the gallery part, but it’s easily the best coffee and cakes place in town. An elegant baroque interior comes as a quite shock given the fact that it’s located in among a strip of shops under a modern apartment block. Cakes and other assorted sweets can be purchased either by the slice or the kilo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (cakes €12-14/kg). PABS

Slaščičarna Jadran J-6, Ribiška 14, tel. 641 84

85. Sandwiched between two fish restaurants right next to the harbour, this old school cake shop is a great place to grab dessert after your meal. We did just that, but had trouble deciding what we wanted and ended up taking a whole bag of sugary goodness back to our hotel to keep in the mini bar for breakfast. PJS

Izola In Your Pocket

siol.net. There’s no better place in Izola to dine - especially at sunset - than in Sidro’s outdoor seating area, which is actually across the street from the restaurant right on the edge of the port. Although the menu features some borderline exotic dishes, such as sea snails with polenta, we played it safe and went with the seafood risotto, but from the look of thing you can’t go wrong. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€6.5-21). PJABS

Nightlife On the whole, Izola can’t really compete with nearby Portorož when it comes to nightlife, but then again neither can most other Slovene cities. However, the charming little port town does boast some worthwhile options for after dark entertainment, including an historic wine bar housed in a renovated Venetian palace, the nautical-themed and quintessentially kitschy Moby Dick Bar and, apropos of nothing else, a world-renowned electronic music club that intermittently hosts huge parties in the industrial district.

Bars & Pubs

Cantante Caffe I-8, Morova 25e. Located the commercial centre just next to the San Simon complex, at night it attracts relatively heavy traffic from among the resort’s guest - an expedient option for those who don’t feel like walking more than 50m or having any trouble finding the way back to their rooms after one too many drinks. Inside you’ll find a modern interior, decent selection of drinks and, more often than not, speakers pumping out Latin music. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAB

Duro J-6, Trg Etbina Kristana 10. A small neighbourhood

bar where the early drinkers seem to settle in for a beer not long after the sun comes up - not that there’s anything wrong with that. It’s situated opposite the photogenically diminutive Church of St Dominic, near the lively fruit and vegetable market on Etbina Kristana Square. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6B

Moby Dick Bar J-7, Dantejeva 4, tel. 51 64 65 65, info@mobydickisola.com, www.mobydickisola.com. In a town that’s essentially still an old fishing village at heart, it’s fitting that the most popular night spot is named after Melville’s famous whale, however there’s no guarantee that it’ll be packed on any given night - especially out of season. In addition to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over every square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can find an electronic dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance and a billiard table in the back. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJALB

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izola

izola What to see Izola’s best sights are the narrow winding streets and small squares that connect the waterfront promenade and old fishing port areas with St Maurus Church and its disproportionately large bell tower atop the city’s modest hill - in other words, the city itself. At least one excursion to see the vineyards and wine roads of the surrounding countryside is also a must, as much for the wine as the scenery fresh air.

Essential Izola

Besenghi degli Ughi Palace J-6, Gregorčičeva 76. Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it is sadly no longer open to the public and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory.

Church of St Mary of Halieatum J-6, Manziolijev

Trg. The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town. It’s not often open to the public, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two.

Manzioli Palace Manzioli Square 5, tel. 616 21 31,

agnese.babic@siol.net. Originally built in 1470 under the direction of one of Izola’s first mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the recently renovated palace is one of the oldest buildings in the city and home to both the offices of the local Italian selfgovernment and an incredibly charming wine bar. Frequently held art exhibitions are a good excuse to see the beautifully restored interior.

Royal Bar J-7, Pittonijeva 20, tel. 641 80 75. Of the

clutch of bars that can be found on Pittonijeva Ulica - a curving 100m street leading from Trg Republike to the city’s Cultural House - Royal is the largest and by far most popular, although truth be told nothing about it really screams out for attention. Perhaps that’s why it packs in the locals who are just looking for a cool place in the shade to enjoy a cold hassle-free beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JA6B

The Wall Pub J-6, Ob Stolpu 12, tel. 641 42 73. Clearly

enjoying its position as the only drinking hole on the promenade along the harbour, come evening time you’ll be lucky if you can find an empty table on its narrow street side seating area. Don’t expect any fancy cocktails or trendy music, but for a cold beer at sunset it can’t be beat. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Casinos

Casino Izola J-6, Trg Republike 4, tel. 640 02 22,

info@casinoisola.com, www.casinoisola.com. It may not be the most overwhelming casino in the world, but it’s clean and comfortable, has a good selection of games, and is right in the centre of town. It’s also open 24 hours and doesn’t charge any admission fee. As an added incentive there are usually some special offer cards floating around nearby restaurants - the one we picked up at Gušt got us €5 in credit and a free drink. Locals tend to rue the lack of dress code and complain about tourists in their shorts and sandals wandering in directly from the beach, but we didn’t notice any on our visit. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00. PJAL

Izola In Your Pocket

Clubs

Ambasada Gavioli Industrijska 10, www.boomerangproduction.si/. Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music. PALE

Model Ship Museum Alme Vivode 3, tel. 640 10

51, tic.izola@izola.si. The ground floor of the Parenzana Museum is a space dedicated to the history of ship building in Istria, an industry going all the way back to 1441. Aside from its extensive collection of model ships the museum also displays various maritime-related pieces along with historical photographs and drawings. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

Parenzana Museum J-6, Alme Vivoda 3, parenzana@

siol.net. In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Trieste with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a reputation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedicated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impressive model train collection that is probably a must see attraction for anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office, since we had a bit of trouble tracking it down only to find that it had closed early. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

St Maurus Church J-6, Trg Svetega Mavra. Sitting atop

Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services.

Wine Bars

Wine Bar Manzioli J-6, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. 616 21

37, matej.zaro@siol.net. Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. JAB

The Ugo Family Plaque J-6, Gasilska ulica. Well above

www.inyourpocket.com The sea is calling

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Manzioli Palace

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ground level on a tiny side street not far from Café Alle Porte, you can find the family plate of the once powerful Ugo family, who originally installed it back in 1450. After seeing several large photographs and reading a bit about its history at the tourist office, we found it slightly underwhelming in real life, especially given the fact that it clings to the wall of a newly renovated building, but we’ll admit that when we stumbled upon it quite by mistake one morning it felt like winning some kind of sightseeing scavenger hunt.

Summer - Autumn 2009

Street register Portorož Belokriška cesta B/C2, C/D3 Cesta rabskih žrtev A/B2 Cvetna pot D3 Fizine C3 K sončni poti C2 Ladjedelniška reber A/B3 Lepa cesta B/C2 Letoviška pot D/E3 Mirni kot D3 Med vrtovi C/D3 Obala B/C/D/E3, E4 Pod anteno B/C2 Pot pomorščakov B/C3 Prečna pot D3 Senčna pot E3/4, F4 Solinska pot C3 Sončna pot C2/3 Stara cesta D/E3 Stopniška pot D3 Trg prekomorskih brigad D3 Vesna E4 Vilfanova ulica B/C2 Zatišje E3

Izola

Koper Agrarne reforme L/M-11 Ankaranska N-12 Bazoviška M-9, M-10 Belveder K-10, L-9 Bošadraga M-10 Božičeva M-11 Brkinska N-10 Budičinova L-10 Cankarjeva M/N-10 Čevljarska L-10, L-11 Dellavallejeva M-9, M-10 Dijaška M-10 Dimnikarska L/M-11 Ferrarska M/N-12, N-10-11 Gallusova M-10,M-11 Garibaldijeva L-10, L-11 Gasilska N-10 Gimnazijski trg M-11 Glagoljaška L-9, L-10 Goriška M/N-10 Gortanov trg L-11 Grudnova M-11 Izolska vrata M-9, M-10 Kamnita M-11 Kettejeva L-10 Kidričeva K/L-10 Kmečka M-11 Kolaričeva L-10 Kolarska M-11 Kolodvorska M-12 Konzulska M-10 Kopališko nabrežje K/L-9 Kosovelov trg M-11 Kreljeva M-10 Krpanova M/N-11 Kumarjeva M-10,M-11 Levja N-10 Ljubljanska M-12 Marušičeva M-11

Mirenska M/N-10 Mladinska L-9, L-10 Muzejski trg L-9, L-10 Mužčev trg M-11 Naldinijeva L-11 Obzidna M-11 Opekarska M/N-10 Osvobodilne fronte L/M-11 Ozka L-11 Petronijeva M-9, M-10 Pobegova M-11 Prešernov trg L-11 Pri velikih vratih L-11 Pristaniška K/L-11 Repičeva L-11 Resslova K/L-10 Ribiški trg M-9, M-10 Rižanska L-11 Solinska L-11 Soška M-11 Stara M-10 Titov trg L/M-10 Tominčeva L/M-11 Tovarniška M-11 Trg Brolo M-10 Trubarjeva L/M-10 Tumova L-11 Ukmarjev trg K-10 Ulica talcev M-11 Valvasorjeva L-10, L-11 Verdijeva L-9, L-10 Vergerjev trg L-9, L-10 Vlačičeva L-11 Vojkovo nabrežje N-10 Vrtna M-11 Zadružna M-11 Zlatičeva M-10,M-11 Zore Perello-Godina L-12 Župančičeva L-10, L-11

Alietova J-6 Bazoviška J-7 Brkinska J-6 Cankarjev drevored J-5, J-6 Cesta v Jagodje H/I-8 Dantejeva I/J-7 Drevored 1.maja J-6, J-7 Elvire Vatovec J-7 Ferda Bidovca J-7, J-8 Goriška J-6 Gortanova J-6 Gregorčičeva J-6 Ilirska I-8 Istrska vrata I/J-6 IX. Korpusa J-7, J-8 Jagodje H-7, H-8 Južna I/J-8 Kajuhova J-7 Kažipotna J-6 Kettejeva I/J-7 Kopališka I/J-5, I-6 Koprska J-6 Kosova J-7 Kosovelova J-6 Kraška J-6, J-7 Leninova J-7 Levstikova J-5 Livade J-7, J-8, I-8 Mladinska I-8 Morova H/I-8 Na griču I-8 Na terasah H-8 Nazorjeva I/J-7 Obrtna J-8

Casino Carnevale 38 44 Casino Izola Church of St Mary of Halieatum 45 Darila, souvenir shop 25 Delfin 29, 40 Dijaški in študentski dom 35 Doner Kebab 20 Duro 42 E Kavarna @ Pina 36 Europcar Slovenija 7 Fast Food Veni 41 Fiesa 28 Figarola & Gregory 20 Florist's shop Orhidea 25 Fontana 29 Forma Viva 24 Galeb 30 Galerija Meduza 38 Garni hotel Pristan 35 Garni Keltika 40 Garni Maki 16 Garni Strasek 18 Gostilna Korte 41 Grand Casino Portoroz 23 Grand Hotel Bernardin 14 Grand Hotel Metropol 14 Grand Hotel Portorož 14 Gušt 41 Hairdresser Tanja 26 Histrion 14 Holy Church of our Lady of the Rosary 24 Intersport Portorož 26 Istra 41

Istriana - Tourist Service Portorož 24 Istrska klet Slavček 36 Ivo 30 Jade 41 Kamin 41 Kavarna Galerija Zvon 42 Kavarna Kapitanija 38 Kempinski Palace Portorož 14 Kino Otok 39 Klet Cantina 31 Koper Regional Museum 38 La Storia Trattoria 36 Latino Bar 23 Lido 23 Lord Byron 38 Lucija 16 Majestic 20 Manta 36 Manzioli Palace 45 Marina 40 14 Marita Marko 16 Max 28 Max Mara Kempinski 25 Mercator Center Koper 38 Mestno Kopališče Koper 38 Mignon 22 Miracolo di Mare 28 Mirna 16 Moby Dick Bar 42 Model Ship Museum 45 Modiana 25 Muzejska Galerija 38 Neptun 16

News Café 20 NLB - Nova Ljubljanska banka 26 O!bala Board shop 26 Okrepčevalnica - Fast food 36 Okrepčevalnica Pr Bepča 36 Ondina 20 Paco Pizzeria 22 Papa Chico 22 Paprika 23 Parangal 42 Parenzana Museum 45 Pavel 30 Penzion Forma Viva 18 Piran 28 Pirat 30 Pizzeria Atrij 36 Pizzeria Odeon 42 Pizzeria Park 36 Pizzeria Tartini 31 Pizzerija Pri Vodnjaku 36 Planet Pub Heineken 23 Playa 23 Portafortuna 32 Post office Lucija 26 Post office Portorož 26 Pub Kapelca 26 Ribja Kantina 20 Riva 30 Riviera 16, 23 Royal Bar 44 Roža 16 Rustika 22 Salon Trendy 26 San Lorenzo 20 San Simon 40 Santa Lucia 22

Oljčna I-8 Osojna H-8 Partizanska J-7 Pittonijeva J-6 Plenčičeva J-6 Pod vinogradi H-8 Premrlova J-6 Proletarskih brigad H/I-8 Razgled H-8 Rožna H-8 Salvadora Allendeja H-8 Senčna I-8 Smrekarjeva J-6 Sončno nabrežje J-6 Strma pot H-8 Šolska J-6 Tartinijeva J-5, J-6 Tomažičeva I-7 Tovarniška J-6 Ulica OF J-7 Ulica oktobrske revolucije I/J-7, I-8 Ulica Sv. Petra J-5 Ulica Svobode J-6 V. Pregavor J-8 Veluščkova J-7 Verdijeva I/J-6 Vrtača H-8 Vrtna I-8 Zadružna I-8 Zaprta J-8 Zatišje H-8 Zelena J-8 Zvonimira Miloša J-8

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Index Adonis 23 7 Aerodrom Portoroz Alaya Cocktail Bar 23 Alibi B11/B14 28 Alibi T60 28 Altana 29 Ambasada Gavioli 44 Apartments Ananina 18 Apartments Diana Belac 18 Apartments Keltika 40 Apollo 14 Aquapark hotel Žusterna 35 Avantcar d.o.o. - National Rent a car 7 Avditorij Portorož Cultural Center 24 Banka Koper 26 Barbara 16 Barbara Fiesa 28 Bar Bonaco 36 Batana 31 Beautique Portorož 25 Belvedere 40 Besenghi degli Ughi Palace 45 Bikers Speed Pub 36 BIO 35 Botique Napoleon 25 Bumerang 40 Cacao 22, 26 Café Alle Porte 42 Café Calypso 38 Café Central 22 Café Donat 30 Café Teater 30 Caffe Bar Chris 30 Cantante Caffe 42

Portorož In Your Pocket

Sečovlje Saline Nature Park 24 Shark Apartments 40 Sidro 42 Skipper 36 Slaščičarna Jadran 42 Slovenija 16 Souvenir 26 Stara Oljka 20 Stara Šola Korte 40 Staro Sidro 22 St Maurus Church 45 Studio La Perla 25 Sun Tours Portorž 7 Tartini 28 Tartini Café 30 Taxi Denis Maglica 7 Taxi Portorož 7 Taxi Štefan 7 That's Slovenia 25 The Ugo Family Plaque 45 The Wall Pub 44 Tivoli 23 Tourist information 39 Trgovina Skinny 25 Turistična Agency Bele Skale 40 Turist Information Centre Koper 33 Unikat Art & hobby 25 Val 29 Verdi 30 Vile Park Bernardin 16 Villa Lili 18 Villa Marina 16 Villa Saline 18 Vodišek 35 Wine Bar Manzioli 44

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