5 Years STB Anthology Sampler

STORIES FROM THE CITY A S L O W T R AV E L B E R L I N A N T H O L O G Y 2 0 1 0 — 2 0 1 5

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ARTISTIC LICENCE Matthias Heiderich

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EXTREME BEHAVIOUR Laura Harker & Paul Sullivan

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A GIFT FROM JAPAN Joep de Visser IN THE SHADOW OF THE WALL Thalia Gigerenzer

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WALKING THE CIT Y Paul Sullivan

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WHAT ALI WORE Vanessa Ellingham

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AN ODE TO BERLIN’S S-BAHN Brian Melican

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WITNESSING THE BATTLE OF BERLIN Marcel Krueger

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WALKING THE 66-L AKE-TRAIL Paul Scraton

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AZZAM TO ZUL A Anne Thomas

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UTOPIAN VISIONS Jesse Simon

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EVERYDAY EXOTIC Marga van den Meydenberg

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MAPPING BERLIN John K. Peck

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EAST / OST Marian Ryan

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TAKING IT TO THE STREETS Giulia Pines

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ON THE KOPENHAGENER STRASSE Rhea Boyden “ICK BIN EEN BERLINA” Ian Farrell

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BERLIN ON VINYL Paul Sullivan

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THE ART OF REMEMBRANCE Ian Farrell

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THE ABCS OF KARL-MARX - ALLEE Leslie Kuo

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NO PL ACE TO CALL HOME Paul Hynes-Allen

BERLIN 166 NABOKOV’S Lesley Chamberlain

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FROM MARZAHN WITH LOVE Bertie Alexander

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BIBLIOPHILIA IN BERLIN NotMsParker

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DON’T FORGET TO LOOK UP! Tam Eastley

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HENRIETTE HERZ (1764–1847) Robin Oomkes

BERLIN 194 HAWKSAmyOVER Liptrot

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CONTRIBUTORS

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Artistic Licence THE PHOTOGRAPHY OF MATTHIAS HEIDERIC H

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Studio session for the single ‘The Singer’ (Mute Records), 24 April 1986

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L AU RA HAR AN D T KER HE & P 80S AU E A Pho ST K L SULL tog IV REU rap ZBE AN ON hy b R G S NIC y Pe CEN K C ter AV E E Gru cho t

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What Ali Wo r e VANESSA ELLINGHAM ON ONE OF THE CIT Y’S MOS T UNLIKELY — AND VISUALLY APPEALING — FRIENDSHIPS Photography by Zoe Spawton

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Walking the 66-Lake-Trail

PAUL SCRATON DISCOVERS PINE F ORES TS, SAND DUNES AND RUN-DOWN I N D US T R I AL E S TAT E S O N BRA ND ENBURG’ S 6 6- L A K E- TRA I L Ph o t o g ra p hy by Ka t r i n Sc h ö n i g

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UTOPIAN VISIONS JESSE SIMON DELVES INTO THE ROOTS OF BERLIN’S MODERNIS T HOUSING ES TATES Photography by James Fancour t and Paul Sullivan

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Gardenstadtweg (Gardenstadt Falkenberg) — photo by James Fancourt

“Ick bin een Berlina”

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I A N FA R R E L L EXP LORES THE OR IGINS AND D E V E LOPMENT OF BERL INERISC H Ph o t o gra phy by Pau l Sul l i va n

Moving to Berlin is a big step in anyone’s life. No matter where you’ve lived before – Paris, Rio, Stockton-onTees – Germany’s capital is guaranteed to be a new experience for you. Every day holds a new discovery: a future favourite bar or café, stumbling upon a spontaneous live concert or dance performance, or simply making friends with some of the many colourful folk on the streets of your adopted home.

If you want to make the most of this lifechanging decision, you’re going to want to learn the language. Maybe you studied German at university in your home country. Maybe you’re planning on doing a crash course when you get here. Maybe you are German (or Austrian, or Swiss, or another native speaker of Deutsch).

Either way, you’ll settle into it sooner or later. The grammar might be a bit tricky

for beginners, but after a month or two you’ll probably be able to hold down a half-decent conversation, and this multi-kulti metropolis is generally pretty tolerant of your mistakes.

At some point, you’ll stumble across one of those elusive creatures: a bornand-bred Urberliner. Maybe someone will come round to read your meter, or install a new boiler, or perhaps you’ll make the mistake of trying to strike up a conversation with your bus driver when buying a ticket. You greet them with confidence, the opening gambit you prepared in your head tripping relatively smoothly off your tongue.

You prick up your ears for the response…but wait, what was that?!

Was it even German? It sounded like something between a grunt and a mutter, far too fast for you to 9 129

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H OW B E R N D L E YO N U S E D A L BU M C OV E R S TO C R E AT E A V I S UA L J O U R N E Y T H RO U G H T H E C I T Y I n t e r v i e w b y Pa u l S u l l i v a n

Local record vendor Bernd Leyon has been selling records through his Musik Department store since 2010. Backed by more than 20 years’ experience spent rooting through the racks at flea markets and music fairs, in 2013 he successfully crowd-funded Berlin On Vinyl, a coffee -table book full of vintage album covers depicting Berlin.

“In spring 1990 I embarked on my first bicycle ride through Prenzlauer Berg,” he recalls in the book’s foreword. “’I’ll ride to the other side,’ people said back

then when talking about East Berlin. Soon enough I stumbled upon a weekly market in Cantianstraße, near Schönhauser Allee. Makeshift wooden stalls, fruit and vegetables, and, among junk from all over the world and countless crates of books: vinyl records. Down on my knees, I dug through a collec tion of records, hidden underneath one of the stalls, and there I found a gem: Gross Stadt Rhythmus (Big City Rhythm). What a title, what a cover. It showed a 20 -year- old snapshot of Schönhauser Allee.”

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Hawks over Berlin AMY LIPTROT GOES LOOKING FOR GOSHAWKS IN TEMPELHOFER FELD…AND BEYOND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAM HOBSON

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STORIES FROM THE CIT Y Published by Slow Travel Berlin www.slowtravelberlin.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Paul Sullivan EDITORS Vanessa Ellingham Paul Sullivan 208

SUB-EDITORS Brian Melican Jesse Simon COVER PHOTO Paul Sullivan DESIGN AND L AYOUT Victoria Gisborne-Land SPECIAL THANKS The editors of this volume owe a special debt of gratitude to Kevin Braddock (permitfullexpression.com), who provided invaluable guidance in terms of tone and concept, and to Emilia Ohberg for her generous input into the design and layout.

Published June 2015 Š 2015 Slow Travel Berlin. The copyright of all texts and photographs contained in this volume belongs to the individual authors and photographers. All rights reser ved.

Not to find one’s way around a city does not mean much.

But to lose one’s way in a city, as one loses one’s way in a forest, requires some schooling. walt e r be nja m in

A collection of writings from the first five years of Slow Travel Berlin Including: H O W T O S P E A K B E R L I N E R I S C H t N I C K C AV E ’ S K R E U Z B E R G Y E A R S A N E X PAT I N M A R Z A H N t T H E M Y S T E R Y O F T H E K O R K - Y O G I S T H E A R T O F WA L K I N G t P H O T O G R A P H I N G B E R L I N ’ S H O M E L E S S WA L K I N G T H E 6 6 - L A K E - T R A I L t H AW K S P O T T I N G A T T E M P E L H O F E R F E L D

a nd m uch m or e… €14.99

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