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SUPPOR TING SUR FER S IN PNG
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ALSO AVAILABLE THE PERFORMER The best of both worlds - a recycled EPS foam core and 2-3mm balsawood skin. With a weight of only 7kg and an emphasis on manoeuvrability and maximum speed, the Performer is designed and shaped for today’s high performance longboarding. The Performer comes with a single box fin and two smaller stabiliser fins. Custom orders are welcome.
Specifications Length: 9’0’’ - 9’4’’ Width: 22 ¼’’ - 23’ Thickness: 2 ½’’ - 3’’’ Weight: 7kg Construction: foam core modern longboard Stringer: Triple, 30mm apart Bottom: Vee Tail: Rounded square Rails: Nose - 70/30 Centre - 80/20 Tail - 90/10
• Clear board grip tape - Let the beauty of the balsa show through with clear Versagrip Traction Tape. Environmentally friendly and suits all size boards. • Timber fins • Surfboards • Blanks • Raw balsa/ cedar • Fin boxes • DIY board kits • Instructional DVDs
ALSO AVAILABLE • Clear board grip tape • Timber fins • Surfboards • Blanks • Raw balsa/ cedar
• Board racks • Tide clocks liquid • NEW! LICK liquid surf wax. Wholesale enquires welcome
• Fin boxes • DIY board kits • Instructional DVDs • Board racks • Tide clocks
SHIPPING ANYWHERE, INCLUDING NZ
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HANDCRAFTED IN AUSTRALIA Riley Balsawood Surfboards Riley Balsawood Surfboards are made using renewable resource balsa and recycled polystyrene for performance, durability, beauty and lower environmental impact made using renewable balsa and recycled polystyrene for performance, durability, beauty and lower environmental impact
Call 0412 376 464 or Email mark@riley.com.au
www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au Australian Environmentally-friendly handcrafted surfboards for the individual in all of us, with a guarantee. Enjoy Responsibly
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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SAY NO MORE Noosa. There’s really not much to say that hasn’t been said before. With twelveodd point and beach breaks in the area, including five points that fire up with everything from cruising longboard sliders for the boardwalkers and slickbacked stylists, to thumping cyclone swell that brings every building site on the Sunshine Coast to a standstill as trayback utes from Caloundra to Cooroy pack into the National Park, it’s plain damn legendary. And if this image by Mike Swaine of Above Photography doesn’t capture the chilled vibe of a lazy day of longboarding in a single snap, we don’t know what could. Noosa and all its glory has been covered countless times in every form of surf media since the first day surfing, ink and film smashed together in a heady mix of art and adrenaline. So not much point in doing anything more on Noosa then, right? Wrong. While it would be easy to do every edition on Noosa (and save us a whole lot of driving), we’ve tried to get as much as we can done in one instead. Here’s a broad brushstroke of what its all about for those unlucky enough never to have visited here, and a reminder for those who have. Enjoy!
Cheers!
rders
sboa the Smorga
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Photo: Mike Swaine/Above Photography
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OPERATION DROP-IN 24 Getting PNG surfers riding
DETAILS, CREDITS & STUFF Grab SMORGASBOARDER FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafés on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania, Western Australia and New Zealand... Be nice and buy something while you’re there. Or read it online.
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INSIDE... ADRENALINE OVERLOAD
36 The life of Greg Huglin
FRESH EYES
72 Young photographers capture Noosa
If you can’t get to a store or other venue to pick the mag up in person, you can also choose to have SMORGASBOARDER delivered to your door. See www.smorgasboarder.com.au. A few back issues are also available for $5 a piece, plus t-shirts & more!
$25 AUS & NZ - 1 YEAR - SIX EDITIONS.
NOOSA WAY BACK WHEN
THE COVER SHOT
56 A brief history
If there’s a Noosa photographer that needs a mention, it’s Keith Hamlyn. With his email newsletter FIN, Fotos in Noosa, and now his new commercial photography venture, his lens has seen more Noosa than most. This great shot of pro surfer Harrison Roach really captures the laidback longboarding vibe of the place. For more of Keith’s work: keithhamlyn.com and fotosinnoosa.com
CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY 110 The backbone of Noosa’s surfing business community
SMORGASBOARDERS
CONTRIBUTING...
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL: Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201
This is YOUR mag. It’s here for you to tell your stories, show your pictures and share your thoughts - and score some free stuff on the way too, to boot.
THE USUAL
NEW ZEALAND: ‘Jiff’ Morris jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz 0220 943 913
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THE LATEST
12 Reader Photos 20 News & Community
GEAR
122 Surfboards 132 Test everything
CLOSEOUT 138 139 141 146
Columns Music Socials Aloha Barry
u do What can yo as tm with that Chris Pop d cash Nan an rd? ca sent you in a ard!... bo w ne a Get Page 122
DESIGN/EDITORIAL: Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552
E: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au P: PO Box 501, Moffat Beach QLD 4551
There’s only a few of us here, so please be patient when you get in touch - we’ll try our best to get back to you as soon as humanly possible. Get in touch to discuss any ideas you’d like to be considered for a future edition or online.
ACCOUNTS: Louise Gough louise@smorgasboarder.com.au GEAR TESTS & REVIEWS: Gus Brown gus@smorgasboarder.com.au
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Smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.
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NEXT EDITION: Score a copy of the brand new The Braves album, “South Paw Product” thanks to Masterstroke Records by simply sending in your surf pics! Send it in via the website, www. smorgasboarder.com.au, or email to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au.
Matt Brockman is a15-year-old photographer from down south in NSW. We have no words for how insane this scene is. Matt, you’re a champ and you’ve got some cool Salty Shoes gear for submitting your shot!
1. CRAZY
READER PHOTOS
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This is what summer should be about - smiles and surf. Cameron Sinclair from Sydney captures the vibe perfectly in this great shot and scores some cool Salty Shoes gear!
2. COOL
READER PHOTOS
READER: PHOTOS SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NEXT EDITION: Score a copy of the brand new The Braves album, “South Paw Product” thanks to Masterstroke Records by simply sending in your surf pics! Get busy!
Minnie Munro shows the best way to find some shade on a warm afternoon. Salty Shoes for you...
3. COVERED
READER PHOTOS
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...BECAUSE NOT ALL OF US GET TO WEAR BOARDIES
Great coffee, roasted daily. Volcom Lane, Raglan NZ WWW.RAGLANROAST.CO.NZ
21/12/2014 9:43 pm
Nothing says chilled like a lazy perch on the nose of a longboard, and Smorgasboarder contributor Simon Kettle looks every bit the part - and on the other side of the lens for a change. Salty Shoes gear is on the way!
4. CHILLED
READER PHOTOS
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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AKA: THE NEWS... COMMUNITY WHAT’S HAPPENINGS & OTHER ANNOUNCEMENTS letters@smorgasboarder.com.au
smorgasboarder
Photo: Swimplex
MORE LOCAL WAVE TECH loving surf, art, life, beer
Following our feature piece on artificial wave pools and technology in Smorgasboarder #25, we heard from the folks at Swimplex Aquatics in Coffs Harbour, who are innovating their own wave-generating technology - the LatiTube Surfing Simulator. “We have three machines already here in Australia and are flat out working on our next installations,” says Project Manager Murray Booth. Fingers crossed, we get some ride-time on one of them soon!
surfing tribe
For more on the machines, as well as a gallery of photos and video of the Latitube in action, see www.latitube.com. join the tribe: surfing-tribe.com
WEDDED BLISS Forget online gift registries... Next time a mate gets married, just chip in for a new surfboard. It looks great on the wall and is far more practical for the surfing couple than that electronic egg cooker... Matt Williams at The Factory Surfboards in Caloundra provided the romantic touch with this thruster for the wedding of Andrew and Victoria Langford. Signed by friends and family, this is an awesome reminder of the day and a keepsake for the grandkids one day.
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“What do you mean we should have just done embroidered polo shirts with our marketing budget?” Crazy corporate branding from some big names.
BRAND NEW BOARDS Well, well, well... The big names are all hopping on the boardwagon now. While Peugeot’s carbon fibre GTI board of 2103 was more of a concept project, the Portuguese cork surfboard for Hawaiian bigwave surfer Garrett McNamara is actually destined for the waves. A collaboration between Mercedes Benz and Corticeira Amorim Cork Composites, the board will be used to ride the biggest waves in the world in Nazaré, Portugal.
Another recent connection with surf culture by corporateland is the Chanel No. 5 surfboard. A television ad with Gisele Bündchen supposedly generated a fair bit of interest in this carbon fibre beastie, and these are now reportedly for sale too. Good luck hitting Snapper with this under your sweetly scented arm. As a response from the local surf industry, we wait patiently for the luxury car range by Wayne Webster and designer fragrance by Glenncat Collins. EASTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST: GOODBYES
EULOGY FOR THE VAL It is always sad when a passing is marked. And so it was when Glenncat Collins’ faithful rustbucket finally called it a day, veering off the highway to that great junkyard in the sky. As he informed us, “After 87,928 miles plus once around the clock, it lost its life due to cancer of the rust and happily donated its organs to an older Valiant member’s car.” Glenncat recalls how they first met. “It was a ’57 Valiant VC, which if you take the V and T out actually spells ‘alian’ (close enough to alien). “I first saw it in Noosa when it was owned by a guy called Rodney Carrower. He ended up selling it to a guy called ‘China’ who sold it to Israel Kani who then sold it to me for $1,000, just to get rid of it. So many owners, so many stories. One of the best I have heard is through a guy called Shannon Neal. His fond memory of the car is going down the Range Hill when the brakes went, and all of a sudden he and China were doing 110kph down the steep decline. All of them lived on though. “Pretty soon after I got the old Val, I pulled the back seats out so I could put my boards through and at the same time get rid of any freeloaders who wanted to always hitch a ride with you. Everyone wanted to ride in it. Everyone
loved it, everyone knew it. It was such a good car. Such a great icon in its own right. People would stop me just to take photos of this old car with a surfboard on it. In fact the only time I ever got pulled over by the cops was just so they could offer to buy the car. “The rust running through the car is a story in itself. The reason I piled rubbish up on the floor was to keep people’s feet from going through it. And towards the end, when things were really bad, I had to be so careful rounding corners. The doors were all so rusted, they would fly open as you went around the bend. If only the poor b*stard could talk. Now it’s gone to that great Chrysler factory in the sky.” Thankfully Glenncat kept the plates and hood emblems of his beloved old Val so he can relive the good times and not dwell on his loss. Here are some fond farewells from family and friends who knew this grand old Valiant during her time:
SHE WILL ALWAYS BE REMEMBERED AS FAMILY “The Valiant was not a car, it was a four wheeled memory chest. Love, laughter, singing at the top of our lungs while the sun and salt joined in.” Wendy and Sofala
R.I.P. 1957-2014
GOOD OLD GOLD VALIANT As I remember the days when Glenncat first acquired the Gold Valiant, I recall he beheaded one of his Barbie dolls he had in his collection and fastened it to the hood emblem on the bonnet. It was always a talking piece when people would walk past. He named her “Wind Tunnel Barbie.” “I also remember that when you tried to get in the passenger side, your knees would be up in your face due to the amount of rubbish on the floor. And the mags/rims, which I thought were meant to be matching the paintwork, were the same colour as the body due to the dust that had collected on them, remaining there so long it became embedded and stained. We tried to clean them one time but there was no way they would come clean. “It’s a shame that the Val is going to the great junkyard in the sky but we will always have the memories.” Cheers, Zooma
ZOMBIE SUNDOWNER “It was a Sundowner apple. One of a bag I’d bought from Burleigh IGA to munch on during the seven-hour drive to 1770. It should have been six hours but I was chain-smoking
ABOVE: Wind Tunnel Barbie III and the Valiant car phone now live on Glenncat’s ride-on mower. LEFT: Happy times - Erle Pedersen, Glenncat, Grant and his two dogs.
durries and chain-eating apples and thus pulling the chain at regular toilet stops along the way. I got to Glenncat’s place and was telling him about my new health kick, and he went on a rant about pesticides. “We jumped in the Val to go looking for waves and an apple must have rolled out somewhere in his car. To prove his point, he would call a couple of times a year to give me updates on the apple. “It looks exactly the same.” “Maybe four years later, I jumped in the Val again at Sunshine Beach and I felt something whacking me in the ankle every time we went around a corner. I didn’t even bother to look at first, there was that much crap on the floor. A quick archaeological dig beneath my thongs might have found me a totem tennis set, a hatchet, an oven mitt, a dead scorpion, the Hungry Hippos board game, an electric kettle, all coated in a fresh dump of foam dust. I reached down and picked up the source of my annoyance. A Sundowner apple, ever so slightly mummified. “I still don’t reckon it was the pesticides, the Val is simply where time stands still, a portal straight to the Twilight Zone.” Jimmy O’Keefe SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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OPERATION DROP-IN
WORDS: TED BASSINGTHWAIGHTE PHOTOS: BEN MILLINGTON
GREAT THINGS done by ordinary people happen every day all over the globe. It is only when you are personally touched by a particular ordinary individual and his incredible, lifechanging mission you realise you too, can be part of that person’s vision.
There is an ordinary bloke from Papua New Guinea (PNG) who came to Newcastle on the 22nd of October 2014 and left with over 300 donated surfboards, many other surf craft and surf clothing and equipment. This man’s story goes back 27 years, as ABC1233 Newcastle (NSW) radio producer, Ben Millington discovered on his recent PNG surf trip.
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A 45-MINUTE FLIGHT
northwest along the Papua New Guinea coastline, facing the Bismarck Sea, is the small timber town of Vanimo in the Sandaun Province. Here Ben saw the locals carving surfboards out of the forest timbers and actually surfing these crude and potentially harmful lumps of wood and he wanted to find out more. The inquisitive journalist in Ben Millington discovered there that about 27 years ago a pilot - oddly named Captain ‘Crazy Taz,’ - flew into Vanimo with Chief Pilot, Drew Salter. He brought with him a surfboard. Like every keen surfer faced with new waves, he went out to catch a few. The reaction of the villagers floored him. He saw them already deeply immersed in surfing using shortened timber planks as belly boards. Feeling impressed, ‘Crazy Taz’ left his surfboard in the village and this one surfboard not only kicked off PNG’s obsession with surfing, it became the genesis of significant cultural and social change that is happening in Vanimo today.
Ben knew he had to tell the world about this phenomenon and a seed of an idea germinated in his mind for quite a while. Then he connected with the ordinary man doing extraordinary things. Andrew Charles Abel, ML or Andy is a third generation member of one of Papua New Guinea’s pioneering missionary and political families dating back to 1891. Built close to the ground, Andy is a muscular surfer who is quietly spoken, yet is also the driving force behind the emerging PNG surfing community. President and co-founder of the Papua New Guinea Surfing Association (SAPNG), whose motto is ‘empowering communities since 1989,’Andy is directly responsible for a ground breaking cultural change transforming attitudes in a fiercely patriarchal PNG society. 27 years ago Andy made a conscious decision to bring about change in his PNG community. He had had enough of the domestic violence towards women that had become an everyday event in his
ABOVE: Andy Abel (left) with Ben Millington in Newcastle, collecting the donated boards for PNG surfers. Photo: www.throwingbuckets.com.au
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society. To make this change happen he chose the vehicle of surfing as the wedge to activate a transformation. But, changing the attitudes and behaviours is never an easy task. So Andy set about building organised and accountable groups of surfers based on their location and surf break. In the charter of the SAPNG is a directive that the affiliated surf clubs are inclusive of women surfers in their competitions and administration. One can only imagine the difficulties Andy faced in making this happen. He needed something to show his people, the country’s leaders and the world, including those resistant to change in the surf clubs, and traditional resource custodian host communities that through inclusive surfing they could bring about equitable and sustainable change in their communities. Between 2003 and 2007 the opportunity presented itself. First-time documentary maker Adam Pesce, an American Diplomacy and World Affairs student at the Occidental College in Los Angeles had embedded himself into Vanimo village after seeing an image of a smiling young Papua New Guinean boy riding a broken surfboard. With two cameras and a couple of surfboards he was determined not to return home without a film. He learnt the local language of Tok Pisin, suffered through a couple of bouts of malaria, and produced the acclaimed prize winning documentary, Splinters, which premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival in New York City, USA in mid 2011. For nine months -six of which he shot alone - Adam documented the life and hardships of the villagers of Vanimo. This record unabashedly included the ugly face of domestic violence. The women of Vanimo who wanted to surf with the men had to risk violence and family ostracism. Enter Andy Abel and the Surfing Association of Papua New Guinea Inc (SAPNG). Andy had been to Vanimo back in 1988 and was impressed with how resourceful the villagers were with only one old surfboard as inspiration. He immediately saw the potential for Vanimo to become a surf tourism location of some note, but he didn’t want to see the PNG owners of the surf locations lose control of their resource or their culture.
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Making a surfboard, PNG-style. Not quite the same timber board building courses you get over here in Australia...
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LATEST: COMMUNITY
“WE ARE ALL RESPONSIBLE TO MAKE A COLLECTIVE DIFFERENCE IN OUR HOMES AND COMMUNITIES.” Foremost in Andy’s mind was the fact 97% of the land is owned by the people, including the fringing reefs where the best surfing spots are located. He had to also carefully negotiate traditional laws and customs, as he has had to in each province he has established the SAPNG network of partnerships. No easy feat and not something an average ordinary person or surfer would take on. As a volunteer for the past 27 years, his singlemindedness has brought about momentous change for his people. By 2007 Andy had achieved success in organising surfboard clubs in those locations where the surf would attract visitors. In order to bring the clubs together in the spirit of fair play and inclusiveness he organised the inaugural 2007 PNG National Surf Titles to be held on the lefts and rights off Vanimo. It was a requirement for each club to enter a female surf team, and the winners of the event would travel to Australia 28
for a competition and training at the Surfing Australia High Performance Surf Centre on the Gold Coast before competing in the 2007 Pacific Games in Samoa. This event is the climax of the movie Splinters. There is a confronting scene in the movie where the brother of one of the surfing girls of Vanimo beats her into unconsciousness in broad daylight in the public market. You feel sickened and saddened by the scene, but when you realise what Andy has done to bring about sustained and equitable change in PNG society, you are motivated to join him in this just cause. And that is exactly what ABC1233 producer Ben Millington did just last year. The ABC crew organised a campaign called Operation Drop-In where listeners across the greater Newcastle and Hunter Valley (NSW) were asked to donate surfboards and surf gear to the men, women, boys and girls of not only Vanimo but
also to Andy’s new project, the people of Bougainville and all ten of its affiliated surfing clubs around PNG. Central in Andy’s gratitude to the people of Newcastle was his commitment that 50% of the surfboards would have their noses painted fluorescent pink. These surfboards are for the exclusive use of female surfers consistent with SAPNG policy of empowerment of women and the continuation of an equal platform whereby aspiring female surfers in the traditional resource custodian host communities are able to enjoy the stoke we take for granted as surfers. Following the movie, Andy was asked a number of questions by the audience. Without hesitation he warmly thanked the audience and the people of Newcastle but he did not miss the opportunity to tell all about how powerful the effect of ‘pinking’ up the women’s surfboards was in the village.
He was at pains to say domestic violence is not exclusive to PNG. As a worldwide problem it can only be overcome when attitudes in the home change. He reminded the audience that we are all responsible to make a collective difference in our homes and communities. Since the release of Splinters in 2011 there has been fundamental change in Vanimo village. Women are now recognised as equals in the surf and all SAPNG surfing communities around PNG where SAPNG has established a footprint. With the increase in PNG-owned surf tourism, it seems this change will be reinforced and continue as foreign surfers share the perfect waves of the area. Visiting surfers now have an opportunity to assimilate with the resource custodian host communities without the crowds. www.sapng.com
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SO MUCH SURF GEAR IN STORE YOU WILL BE AMAZED! FROM SURFBOARDS TO SKATEBOARDS, WETTIES, SURFWEAR AND ALL THE LATEST GADGETS
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Wooden Surfboard Workshops
Due to popular demand we now offer
1 Day Shaping Workshops 3 Day Building & Shaping Workshop - Over 3 days we teach you how to build a wooden surfboard from scratch, starting with timber planks and internal frame to create your board. The last day is spent shaping. After 3 days you take home your Wooden Surfboard, complete with fins, fin box/plugs, leash plug and vent. 1 Day Shaping Workshop - In a 1 Day Shaping Workshop, we start with a pre made wooden blank, then teach you how to shape and create the board, similar to how a conventional surfboard is shaped. At the end of the day the board is fully shaped, complete with fins, fin box/plugs, leash plug and vent. Longboards, shortboards, retros and classics - made by you with a little help from Tree to Sea Australia. Workshops are held in Mt. Eliza, Victoria, Australia. See web site for dates. Gift Vouchers available
Wooden Surfboard Workshops The goodness of wood. Plantation grown timber. No fibreglass. No foam. No resins. Just wood (and glue). Keeping our environmental splash to a minimum.
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SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE 2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD | Telephone (07) 5491 3620 Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day
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SURFWAREAUSTRALIA.COM
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RANDOM ROAD TALES ABOVE: Stephan and Erik from the First Wave Surf School in Zandvoort, the Netherlands
WORDS & PHOTOS: JEFF MORRIS
RANDOM TALES FROM THE ROAD DID A BIT OF A TREK to Europe during their
Summer holiday period this year, with the main purpose to visit family and friends, but we also managed to find ourselves near the coast or a surf shop once or twice, so had the opportunity to see how the other 7/8ths holiday at the beach.
ITALY
More cowbell.
First experience was when we found ourselves 20km from the Mediterranean in Italy. It’s usually well-known for its wealth and beautiful people, but I guess we must have taken a wrong turn at Austria, because we got the dark sand, blokes constantly trying to flog anything with Bob Marley on it, and dark looks from mobsters on holiday. It seems that the bikini is back in fashion with a vengeance down here… Often not such a good thing for some, like the rest of the beachgoers. The whole way of doing things here is so different to our beaches, you have to pay about 30 Euros a day just to get a sun lounge to lay working on your skin cancers and the crowds are massive.
Italian lifeguards
Don’t think I’d like to get into difficulty in the water either, as the only form of ocean rescue vessel that I saw was a kind of catamaran SUP, I reckon by the time it was launched and paddled out it would be all over. The Italian lady lifeguard was nice though, so I reckon I’d keep gasping for air and hang out for that particular rescuer. I did manage to rent a SUP and spent most of my time crowd-free on the water. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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with paulownia
Roman at Surfari, Zurich
Get back to the roots...
SWITZERLAND
My next surprise was to stumble across a surf shop in Zurich! Well they did win the America’s Cup twice… Anyway popped in and met Roman Hartmann at Surfari Surf Store who reckons he does reasonably well with quite a few Swiss heading off somewhere into the world and catching a wave or two. I was impressed by the quality and quantity of the range of boards there were even a few customers coming in buying stuff in the short time that I was there... It even smelled like a proper surf shop. Being in Zurich ,and just around the corner from one of the most expensive shopping streets on the planet however, I reckon they should stock a mink-lined wetsuit and Roy Stuart’s $1.3 million dollar surfboard...
Stephan, First Wave Surf School
“...COULDN’T BEAR THE THOUGHT OF UNLEASHING MYSELF IN JUST A PAIR OF ‘BUDGIES’ ON THE DUTCH BEACHGOING PUBLIC.”
Native Hawaiian surfer with alaia board, circa 1911
THE NETHERLANDS
Our buoyant, lightweight timber floats all around the world.
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We left the train station and came across Vandenberg Surf Store so popped in had a chat with Guido Hendrix - even purchased a pair of boardies as I left mine at the hotel and couldn’t bear the thought of unleashing myself in just a pair of “budgies” on the Dutch beach-going public.
“G’dag”
SURFBOARD SUPPLIES
About an hour North by a very comfortable and efficient train system is Zandvoort at the North Sea, not really famous for its surf breaks, but try telling that to the numerous surf schools that have sprung up. Guido, Vandenberg Surf
• Tom Wegener preferred alaia blanks • Alaia & Kite Boards • Long Boards • Hollow Boards • Chambered Boards
I had never been to Amsterdam before but it more than lived up to it’s reputation - everyone seemed to be either smoking something on the streets and in cafes or cruising on bikes and motor scooters helmet free and care free, and without a hi-vis jacket in sight - mint!
They have some really interesting bars and restaurants lining the beach here and one of the most interesting was the Skyline Authentic Aussie Outback Beach Bar? Actually it was a pretty cool place and we managed to grab a couple of sun lounges for free! Right next door is First Wave Surf School run by Erik and Stephan - a couple of real nice and super enthusiastic guys who love all things surf. Erik even had a copy of Smorgasboarder at home in the toilet. He assured me it was there for reading... Naturally, no waves were happening, so the boys looked after me with a crowd-escaping SUP, which as you can imagine is popular here. I did manage to get a smile and a wave from a topless lady on my way back into shore, so not all crowds are bad, and I really do like Amsterdam.
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Custom-fit = made to fit your body The best fit = the warmest wetsuit. No more tight shoulders or loose legs. Made to your size and shape.
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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EVANS HEAD
GREAT FAMILY SURF ES
A VISIT TO BEAUTIFUL NEW SOUTH WALES
CAPES
FISHING The rocky headland provides scope for surf anglers chasing tailor, jewfish, bream, whiting, tuna and other pelagics. Vehicles are permitted to enter at Airforce Beach providing they stick to speed limits and stay off the foredunes. Our tip is to head to the local tackle shop and they will set you in the right direction.
WHERE IS IT? Evans Head is a great little coastal town of about 3,000 people virtually half way between Ballina and Yamba that’s sandwiched between Bundjalung and Broadwater National Parks. It’s a popular destination for fisherman and surfers. It’s quiet location particularly appeals to families.
NORTH COAST HOLIDAY PARKS SILVER SANDS - EVANS HEAD
THE SURF There are a few breaks in the region which work in a variety of conditions, namely off the north and south break walls at the mouth of the Evans River. There are also a number of beachies in the area. I won’t go into specifics out of respect for the locals other than to say, if you’re planning to holiday here it’s more than likely you will score a couple of nice waves. There are spots for beginners through to rippers – she can hold up to 8ft.
Photos: North Coast Holiday Parks, Tom Woods
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Is reportedly one of the largest caravan parks in NSW. It’s position right by the river with plenty of shade and walking distance to everything means it is an absolute cracker. It’s only 100m to the beach! Park the car/motorhome when you get there and forget about it. 23 self-contained cabins, ensuite sites and a whole heap of powered and unpowered sites. New camp kitchen, pedal kart hire, kid’s playground, free wifi. Raves reviews from many, many visitors.
www.northcoastholidayparks.com.au
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LAT EST: L OCAL Matahi Drollet, Teahupoo 36
SMORGASBOARDER | summER 2015
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HEART STARTER GreG
H
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T he a d re n al g la n d is an interesting bit of biology. Sitting above our two respective kidneys like a cap, it’s arguably best known for secreting adrenaline, that magic hormone that helps your body rapidly respond to a stressful, dangerous or exciting situation. It’s what springs you into ‘fight or flight’ mode. In a clinical sense, what adrenaline does is increase your heart rate so blood rushes to your muscles and brain, as well as spiking your blood sugar level by converting glycogen to glucose in the liver. All fascinating stuff, as I am sure you would agree, but why the anatomy lesson? Well having watched many of Greg Huglin’s films and documentaries, it is quite clear to me his must be permanently firing. Much of Greg’s work basically encapsulates everything that scares the absolute crap out of me, and more than likely most normal people. Shark Park, Hawaiian Watermen and his footage of great white sharks off the coast of South Africa are but a few that have me changing my shorts. When you view such films, including Surfing Dolphins, which I will explain later as to why it was so dangerous, you start to understand what I am on about. The guy seemingly has a complete disregard for his own personal safety. WORDS: DAVE SWAN IMAGES: GREG HUGLIN
summER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Miramar Point 1968
Miramar Beach 1967
“Bob and I with our first boards, 1964.”
Despite
my
views
of Greg Huglin being a bit of a loony, albeit an extremely talented and gifted one, he has won worldwide acclaim for his work. Here’s a little background on Greg, his life and his accomplishments, although when you have lived a life as full as his, it is pretty bloody hard to sum it up in a few short words. Greg grew up right on Miramar Beach, Santa Barbara. His father, a retired Air Force General, introduced him to cameras. His mother, having bribed a local lifeguard, introduced an 11-yearold Greg to surfing. By the time he had finished school he had already begun to mix his two loves and ventured to Hawaii’s North Shore to surf and shoot Super 8 footage. The trip culminated in 38
his first surfing film called Cold Lines and Natural Bridges in 1973, which he road showed down the East and West Coast of the US. Later on he graduated from the San Francisco Art Institute with a bachelor’s degree in filmmaking. His senior thesis film called In Quest of The Sun (1975) saw him document his nine months at sea surfing and sailing. It received five International Golds and a Silver at Cannes. This in turn lead to a gig filming Perrier commercials over the next two to three years. Greg considers George Greenough’s Innermost Limits of Pure Fun as his touchstone, and during this period he also began working with the legendary filmmaker as is camera assistant on various projects. He not only credits George with teaching
him so much about filmmaking, but also how to design and build underwater cameras. A little while later he had a crack at another solo project - a surf film entitled Fantasea featuring virtually all of the ‘70s best surfing talents at the height of their powers. Filmed in South Africa, Hawaii, Australia and California it starred the likes of Simon Anderson, Mark Richards and Shaun Tomson through to Gerry Lopez, Buttons and Mark Foo. It’s an absolute classic with a cracker soundtrack to match. From there Greg moved into the world of studio and commercial photography working with some of the best fashion photographers of the ‘80s in New York. That in turn resulted in a 7-year gig shooting women’s swimwear for Lands End
swimwear, travelling to exotic destinations around the world, 180 days a year. In between fashion shoots he made the most of his locales filming footage for his surf films or underwater wildlife documentaries. Greg’s film footage is licensed through agencies throughout the world with some of his dolphin footage used in the Academy Award-winning documentary The Cove, which was about Japan’s bloody dolphin harvest. So to sum it all up, aside from his incredible solo work, Greg Huglin has contributed footage to something like 200+ commercials and films, and his work has featured on dozens of magazine covers. In short, he’s an absolute living legend and I feel privileged to speak with him.
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LAT EST: L OCAL Greg at Government Point, 1976. Photo by George Greenough
Chuck Patterson skiing Shark Park
With that said however, despite this unbelievable opportunity of chatting with Greg, I still wanted to clear the air, come clean and level with him, dealing with what I believed was the ‘elephant in the room’. I asked him if he is immune to any form of fear. (I didn’t quite have the nerve to call him a loony to his face, of course) “Well, you know, I like shooting stuff that’s different, unique. I like to go to some unusual places because I have been doing this since I was 18. I am now 62 years old. I have pretty much got the same stoke though as when I was a kid because I just don’t shoot the same old thing over and over again. “I like trying to push my own bar up and get shots that are more and more difficult. So when I have gone to places like Shark Park or shoot from a jetski out at Cortes Bank or Peahi (Jaws) or go over to Nazare in Portugal, I have always been trying to shoot something that was a little different to what I had done before. I want a new experience because you only go around once in life. I like to create imagery that makes me happy and hopefully someone will look at it and they will like it too.”
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T he b i k i n i sh o o ts and a bit of surfing would have been enough to keep me interested and inspired but not Greg. He was keen to develop a means of delivering groundbreaking footage of great whites as well. I thanked Greg for the countless nightmares he had given me since, and for adding to my unparalleled fear of great whites, which drew a fair bit of laughter from him.
“Well, me too, bro. The underwater footage I shot of great whites is still used today by National Geographic, even though it’s something like 14 years old. “And I agree with you, at first I was like, Great whites... Most surfers have a fear of them. But after you have done 75 days on an 18ft boat from sunrise to sunset over the course of a 6-year period filming them up close, and working with the guys who are experts on these sharks you
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gain more of an understanding of them and their behaviour. I would be asking questions all day long of these guys, and from their anecdotal information and my own observations, the first thing I learnt is that they are very inquisitive. They will inspect any silhouette on the surface. It could be a lid from a cooler or even a paper bag.
“So my experience certainly changed my perception of them. Yes you could still get bitten by a great white while you’re out surfing but statistically more people get killed every year from soda machines falling on them. So I don’t even really think about sharks anymore when I am in the water.“
“The second thing I learnt is that they are very cautious. Even with a chum stream, they will come in very carefully and slowly to investigate. They just don’t rush in wildly and grab something because unlike many sharks they have what is called a nictitating membrane, which protects their eyes. When they come in at the point of attack, they turn sideways and close that membrane, and so they really bite blind. I have never seen one just come in right away and hack something. You always see them circling very, very cautiously.
I am glad for Greg that he has put his own mind at ease but whilst I found the footage absolutely breathtaking - it sent the biggest shiver down my spine and possibly a little dribble in my shorts. I believe if I ever saw great whites up close like that, I don’t think I could ever set foot in the ocean again. “I admit I was always trying to get that money shot that the other crews couldn’t get. National Geographic or Discovery would send a crew down there for a couple of weeks and would get most of the footage they needed for
the story done, but they wouldn’t get that ‘shark attack’ shot because it is very difficult to get. So I went down there every year with different aluminium housings, mostly with 35mm cameras that could do a 150 frames a second, and I would intentionally let the great whites attack it. I have shots of them coming in slow motion and literally trying to bite the lens. “When they bite the aluminium housing it’s like sticking a piece of tin foil against a filling in your tooth - you get that electrical shock. As a result they won’t bite through the housing even though they could easily. They bite, hit the metal and let go but the shot you are left with looks like your last seconds on earth. I was always after that kind of high drama shot.”
SMORGASBOARDER | summER 2015
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the
w hile
Greg was filming footage for Shark Alley, he unbelievably was putting himself in harm’s way with these creatures he was growing to understand whilst filming his other project he had running simultaneously. Surfing Dolphins presents unparalleled footage from both above and within the water of these graceful creatures as they ride waves. The film literally immerses you in to the world of dolphins and with the accompanying soundtrack, leaves you somewhat hypnotised. 80% of the footage for Surfing Dolphins was filmed between Port Elizabeth and Wilderness, not too far from Gaansbaai in South Africa where Greg was filming the Great whites. Indeed he would alternate between filming great whites and dolphins, travelling up and down the South African coast for three months of the year, over a 6-year
period. I asked how he got the courage to jump into essentially the same body of water as where he was filming Great whites. “It took me two years to get the permit to jump in the water with dolphins. In Africa it’s very tightly controlled. You are not allowed to jump in the water from a boat so I had to get these special permits that would allow me to jump in the water from a boat and then swim to the beach, touch the sand with my fin and then swim back out, which was technically entering from the beach. The problem being that I was well aware that large schools of dolphins always have a predator behind them.” Greg mentioned he would make a point of not staying any more than 10 minutes in the water after the pod had passed, recalling his experience that Great whites will tend to circle around first looking for the weak and the slow.
“I was extremely nervous about jumping in the water in the surf line with several hundred dolphins, because I knew that sooner or later, if I gave it enough time, there would be a Great white there and I would be the slowest in the water. And I had regularly seen the large dark shadows trailing the pods when we had been filming overhead in a plane.
LAT EST: L OCAL
A ll
“So after I had gotten the shots I wanted I would swim so fast back to the boat… (laughing). I was on the high school swim team for three years a very long time ago and I think I broke my own record, even swimming with a 20-pound camera. I had some pretty major adrenalin rush moments doing that.” Quite frankly I reckon my adrenal glands would have ruptured from overuse doing that, along with my bowels. But if that wasn’t enough, Greg was tackling projects just as insane on the surfing side of things.
summER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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H a v i n g w it n esse d
and filmed breaks such as Peahi in the early days before it became overrun with crowds, Greg began scouting distant offshore locales closer to home for the next yet unridden big wave spot. Almost 50 miles offshore of the westernmost point of the USA he discovered a place aptly named Shark Park, due to its abundance of Great whites and the fact it was near to where a sea urchin diver had been eaten. 42
With a team of international towsurfers he ventured out to this virgin break to capture footage of them riding the giant winter swells of 2005/06. The film was appropriately called Shark Park and is without doubt one of my all time favourites. Alas Greg was not satisfied with this ‘wave that warped ominously, jacking up as high as a four-story building, half a city block long before the wall of water curved
over, exploding in a thundering cavernous barrel’, he was still seeking that elusive holy grail of extreme surfing - the 100ft wave. This lead him to another place he dubbed “Psychos”. Fitting isn’t it? Apparently Greg called it that because he said only a nutcase would attempt to surf it and as such, any attempt to tackle it would be called “The Psychos Project”. Having read he had been to the spot countless
times to survey the scene, I asked him about any planned future attempts at surfing it. “Shark Park is off the same island as Psychos and both are extremely treacherous to get out to. Literally several years will go by until we are able to go out there. I have only seen Psychos break huge once and that was around 50-60ft. The main problem with the spot though is that it’s located right inside a rookery of 50,000 seals
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LAT EST: L OCAL
Chuck Patterson, Shark Park
“it’s located right inside a rookery of 50,000 seals and obviously there is a proportionate amount of predators for them” Greg Huglin on Psychos
and obviously there is a proportionate amount of predators for them. Worst still, the set up is such you can’t tow it, you would have to paddle it and I personally don’t think that any of my friends would sit on a board, even if it was perfect, in the middle of a seal rookery. Imagine you are the one sitting there, the slowest thing in the water. I think it would be pretty stupid. Someone will do it eventually though.” Garrett McNamara Shark Park summER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LAT EST: L OCAL Axi Muniain at Nazare, Portugal
gREg’S
REfEREncE
to tow-in and paddling surfing prompted me to ask for his perspective on the current debate between the merits of the two, which we have covered several times through the pages of Smorgasboarder. “I was out at Cortes Bank (another insane Californian surf break 160 km off the coast of San Diego and sharky too) a couple years ago, the last time it was paddle surfed. I was on the boat with Garrett McNamara, Kohl Christensen and a whole bunch of characters
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and that is the day that Greg Long basically drowned and was revived. I believe the new focus on big wave surfing being paddle only is really interesting and great until it gets to a certain point where you have to switch to towing. “I think we will see this winter over on Maui (referring to the break at Peahi, Jaws) a day where it will be big enough that all the guys that are on 11 and 12ft surfboards realise, ‘Hey wait a minute, I can’t paddle onto these, the waves are going too fast. Nazare is another example where,
when the swell is up around 70ft, it becomes too hard to paddle into. It’s a giant beach break with horrible currents and no safe way of getting in and out of there. That is also why you don’t see water shots of Nazare because it’s basically fairly suicidal. “I was there a couple of years ago with Garrett when he got that world record. The place is pretty nuts. I have never seen any place on earth that has waves that size and because it is an underwater canyon, the waves come straight in and then will shift and suddenly
bend 90 degrees. As a result, when you kick out on the first wave, you will then be looking at another 50ft face coming straight towards you. Its what makes it such a freaky spot and why you want to get a jetski in and get surfers out of harms way. Guys are just pushing the limit there. It’s insane. My opinion is that it’s the biggest rideable wave in the world.” As a photographer Greg reasons it’s also much more exciting to shoot a guy towing in then paddling in because paddling, in
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“yoU don’T SEE wATER SHoTS of nAZARE bEcAUSE IT’S bASIcALLy fAIRLy SUIcIdAL”
his opinion, is very slow and not nearly as dynamic as towing. To that end, he also expressed his opinion on big wave competitions.
because it takes more balls. The thinking is, ‘any dope on a rope can tow into a wave, it doesn’t take much waterman skill’.”
“The year before last I had 3 out of the 5 finalists in the biggest wave awards (Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards). The guy that won was Shawn Dollar at Cortes Bank paddling in to a 50ft wave. Bigger waves were ridden by Garrett McNamara, and Kealii Mamala at Nazare that were clearly 70ft, but because there is a prejudice against towing they will give the award to the paddle-in wave
Our conversation then turns to “slab waves and the nut cases that are attacking them” along with Greg’s admiration for fellow big wave surf filmmaker Tim Bonython, who we have also had the pleasure of interviewing several times. Incidentally, Greg shot the ‘Teahupoo’ sequence in Tim Bonython’s latest film.
“I love Tim’s films. He is showcasing the biggest waves in this part of the world. If I have a choice of watching a contest or free surfing in big waves, it’s an easy decision. Big waves are much more interesting for me anyway. In contests you have to get points and do the same manouvre over and over again, whereas guys that are slab riders like Mark Matthews and Dylan Longbottom are really pushing the boundaries of total insanity, and that is why I love Tim’s films. For $20 you can go watch these guys take real serious chances.
“If you went to an average pub and show them Kelly Slater, John John and those guys in 5ft beach break or Tim Bonython’s film, they are going to get excited about the big wave stuff. It’s dynamic, it’s exciting, it’s spectacular. The guys like Mark and Dylan that I mentioned, and Laurie Towner, are really pushing the limits of surfing.”
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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The Huglins
g R E g’S g EAR o f c HoI c E
Speaking of people’s interest in surf films, I asked if Greg’s kids, Jasmin who is 13 and Josh 11, have showed any interest to date in film or photography. “They both shoot with their own little cameras and like watching me do it and stuff but their focus for now is on kids stuff. They know how cameras operate and they have pretty good eyes when they do shoot stuff but I have no idea what career they will be interested in for their life’s work.” Greg did express interest though in perhaps getting involved with Noosa’s Festival of Surfing at some stage to conduct some workshops and help educate aspiring photographers and cinematographers. “What I would really love to do with Phil’s (Jarratt – Festival Director) permission is a workshop to show people how to use the latest technology such as the Red Epic, which I use. A lot of people are interested in that kind of stuff and I love teaching. It would be great to give something back. Maybe we can have a couple of guys like myself and Jack McCoy and some others sit there and answer questions. The fact is, if you want to learn this kind of stuff, it is pretty difficult and who the heck are you going to ask? When you are a trade apprentice there is always someone knowledgeable you can learn from but with surf and ocean photography there really isn’t.”
Greg was reportedly semi-retired when technology implored him to get back into the field. A next generation digital camera called the Red Epic, which is the size of a DSLR, was the catalyst. Apparently its 5K sensor is capable of capturing 120 frames per second at full resolution meaning that fashion spreads through to 3D IMAX features can be shot on this same piece of equipment. It has basically crossbred elite photography with cinema capability. Greg gave us a little rundown on his latest prized possession. “I kind of got bored with it all to tell you the truth. I really enjoyed shooting great whites and making the dolphin film in South Africa but the hassle factor of travelling with 35mm film did get to me. A few hours worth of film is 100 pounds (45kg) and then you have the extra security that came with 9/11 and film processing getting more and more expensive. It costs about $6,000 an hour alone just to shoot with it. “When the Red Epic came out, it was a lot smaller and easier to use than its predecessor and I figured it was time to jump into it. Its still a difficult camera to operate because it is all manual – manual still, manual exposure, manual focus, manual everything and its bulky for a hand held camera but once you get the results back, it is all worth it. They are technically challenging but the quality is just incredible. If you shoot at 5k and use a high shutter you can still produce a double-page image (still) for a magazine that a photo editor can’t tell it’s been shot on an Epic, the quality is that good.” Having viewed his footage recently shot on the Red Epic I can testify how absolutely stunning and crystal clear it is. In my own mind it answers many of the questions that have been raised as to the future of photography considering the abundance, accessibility and affordability of high tech cameras. Some believe they have rendered the art of photography and cinematography obsolete. Super high definition film will set a new benchmark. “I had 4 years at film school and that taught me how to make films. I think the GoPro revolution and access to inexpensive cameras has meant a lot of people who haven’t gone to film school are now able to creatively express themselves. As a result we get to see a lot of content and many interesting things because we are more egalitarian. Kids in Africa can make this cool film with a $100 camera and show the world their work. In some ways that is really good and in some ways it cheapens the value of photography now that everyone has a camera. Super high definition that can be shown in big cinemas and outdoor theatres is taking it to a whole new level. I believe it is now creating a marked point of difference and as I said, these cameras are not easy to use.”
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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T ER HY
B EL
ONEON-ONE TUITION
Greg, SUP, Noosa
Photos Supplied, Greg Huglin
D.I.Y.
LEARN TO CRAFT YOUR OWN
SURFBOARD wHERE gREg now cALLS HomE The reason I was so fortunate to be able to chat with Greg was that, together with his family, he now calls Noosa home. Around 3 ½ years ago he and his wife Andrea decided to “try something different in life” and sold everything including their house in Santa Barbara and started travelling with the kids. They visited numerous countries in South America including the Bahamas, Ecuador, Uruguay through to Costa Rica, all the while surfing the many different point breaks and home schooling the kids. Australia, and namely Noosa though, beckoned. “I had come down here for the Noosa Festival of Surfing with Phil Jarratt a few years earlier and loved it. So we came to Noosa, stayed several months and decided that this is the place we really want to live with its weather, small town feel, schools, really nice people and great surf.” Jasmin and Josh have settled in to a local school and have both joined the Sunshine Beach Surf Life Saving Club nippers program whilst Greg and Andrea have become members of the Noosa Malibu Club.
“ I can’t believe how good it rides. I felt like I surfed the best in years on it. ” Aaron
Take away a board you have made start to finish from mowing foam to resin finishing. Get schooled in all aspects of surfboard building: • Shaping • Glassing • Sanding • Finishing • Artwork All with guidance from shaper Al Colk’s five decades of firsthand foam and fibreglass experience. An intensive, all-inclusive 3 day course. Shortboard $1,200 Longboard $1,500
“The people here are just so nice. I have always preferred Australians over Americans because they are more direct and less politically correct. There is also such a good surf culture here. Everyone we know in Noosa, their life revolves around the ocean and that is one of the reasons we are here.” We’d like to say a huge thank you to Greg for kindly sharing his time and all these amazing images taken from his incredible life’s work. If you’re not inspired now, go check your pulse...
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Contact Al Colk directly: M: 0408 425 368 E: AL.TUBETIME@GMAIL.COM SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Al Colk
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A SPECIAL FEATURE ON THE CROWN JEWEL OF SUNSHINE COAST SURFING
Looking over to Noosa Main Beach. Tourism Noosa
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NOOSA: THE magic place summER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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FIRST COVE:
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NOOSA: THE magic place summER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA. Everyone knows of the appeal. In fact, Noosa is world-renowned. The beauty of the natural environment, the waves, the laid back lifestyle... It’s simply one of Australia’s most iconic surf towns.
SHORTBOARDS, LONGBOARDS... SOmETHiNg FOR all Photos: Katrina MacDonald
Ask any international visitor to name one of their favourite places in our great country and Noosa will inevitably turn up in their top ten or higher. Many besotted with its charm have taken up residence here. Its global appeal is what has lead to it becoming so cosmopolitan. Leading lights in the field of art, be it visual, culinary or indeed surf-inspired art have made this coastal community an epicentre for creativity. On the surf side of things, what we will say for now is that anyone who has experienced surfing Noosa’s points when they are on fire - such epic sessions are without doubt etched onto their memory-bank for a lifetime. The groomed point-break waves are the reason why Noosa has become a mecca for longboarders but also shortboarders alike, particularly when summer’s cyclonic swells kick through. In fact, the region is also home to a number of superb beachies and a river mouth break that when on song after heavy rains, with the bar flushed out several hundred metres, as local resident and surf author Peter Neely has stated, “turns into Kirra and G-Land combined.”
NOOSa OFFERS SOmETHiNg FOR SURFERS FROm all WalKS OF liFE, OF VaRYiNg agES, RiDiNg all maNNER OF SURF cRaFT... SmORgaSBOaRDERS. Over the next 60-odd pages, we’ll take a look at everything the region has to offer - from the past to the present, the surf, places to stay, eat and visit and a few of the interesting personalities that call Noosa home. Enjoy!
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S & MORE DVD | RK WO ART | KS BOO | G THIN CLO | TE SKA | S ORIE ESS ACC | SURFBOARDS | COLLECTOR’S GEAR
U A . M O C . F R U S D N U O R G R E W W W . U N D SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: THE HISTORY
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Noosa National Park, 1964. Photo kindly supplied by Mal Sutherland
HAYDEN KENNY IS WIDELY REGARDED AS THE FIRST PERSON TO HAVE ‘SURFED’ THE POINTS OF NOOSA ON HIS HOLLOW PLYWOOD MALIBU LATE IN 1957. Other well known surf identities were soon to follow, such as Doug “Claw” Warbrick, a young Bob McTavish with Ma and Pa Bendall and later the likes of George Greenough, Nat Young, Tony Dempsey and Richard Harvey. Indeed
the who’s who of Australian surfing in time came to experience Noosa’s magic point break waves. Their exploits were well documented through the lenses of now legendary photographers and cinematographers such as John and Paul Witzig, Albe Falzon and Mal Sutherland. Rather than simply follow the well-trodden path of talking to these incredibly well-known ‘usual suspects’, we thought we'd talk to a couple of true ‘locals’ who not only surfed these parts in the '60s, but who actually lived in the very heart of Noosa itself.
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BELOW: Mick Wilson (Julian's dad) in 1966. Photo: Stuart Scott RIGHT: Stalwarts Stuart Scott (left) and Gary Clist (right) with a replica Hewston
NOOSA: THE HISTORY
Stuart Scott is the author of the book Noosa: Surfing the '60s and his family home during this period was located in none other than Hastings Street. Gary Clist moved to Noosa with his parents when he was just 16 and lived right at the entrance to Noosa National Park. I had the great pleasure of catching up with both gentlemen recently for a chat at Gary’s Cooroibah treasure trove out the back of Noosa. I left with a vivid picture of how things were back in the day as well as rekindled memories of my own childhood learning to surf on the points of Noosa in the late '70s. Stuart was the first to move here. He was just five years of age when his parents left Sydney in 1956 in the first VW Microbus, a forerunner to the Kombi, for the sleepy little coastal town of Noosa. He beautifully captures what it was like back then in the opening to his book: "Noosa at the beginning of the 1960s. Just a little village stretched out along a sand spit, asleep in the sun. Old weatherboard houses perched on the beachfront. A narrow strip of bitumen for a main street, dirt along both edges, big trees on the footpath. A national park at one end of town, water on three sides, a dream set-up. Uncrowded. Unspoiled. "The Scott family home was located on the river side of Hastings Street, down near the camping ground that then filled Noosa Woods. Today it is the site of the trendy café and boutique accommodation 10 Hastings Street. With such close proximity to the waves it was only natural Stuart himself would become a part of the burgeoning surf scene.
“I HAVE THIS VIVID MEMORY THAT SUNDAY AFTERNOON ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE SCOTT FAMILY WAS WATCHING THE SURFERS AT FIRST POINT. THE WAVES WERE JUST SO INVITING. ROW UPON ROW OF SWELL WOULD MARCH IN PRECISION ACROSS LAGUNA BAY WRAPPING AROUND FIRST POINT, PEELING ALONG THAT ROCKY SHORELINE, CLOSING ZIPPER-LIKE AS THEY REACHED THE SHALLOW WATER. I COULDN’T RESIST AND TOOK UP SURFING IN ’63 WHEN
Hayden Kenny Photo: Mal Sutherland
THE FIRST TO SURF NOOSA On November 25th, 1956, Hayden Kenny was part of a lifesaving contingent that competed against a squad of American lifeguards at the first international lifesaving carnival held in Torquay to celebrate the Olympic Games, being staged in Melbourne at the time. It was here the Americans unveiled their secret weapons, four 9-10ft balsa malibu boards. Hayden’s surprise at what the Californians could do on these boards prompted him to order a hollow wooden replica made by Gordon Woods out of plywood (Balsa was not readily accessible in Australia at the time). He placed his order for a 10’6” Malibu with Gordon in May 1957 and received delivery of it on September 19th, 1957. Hayden wasted no time in christening it at his home break of Alexandra Headland before he ventured further north to a spot he had competed in at a surf carnival previously – Noosa. He had the points all to himself. Source: Stuart Scott’s Noosa: Surfing the '60s
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I GOT MY FIRST SURFBOARD.” Stuart was one of only a handful of surfers who actually lived in Noosa at the time with the rest of the ‘crowd’ in the lineup made up of “nearby locals from Noosaville and Tewantin, a band of country lads from Gympie, a sprinkling of surfers from elsewhere on the Sunshine Coast, namely the Caloundra crew and the Alex lads, and another group who made the long, slow trip from Brisbane. It wasn’t until later that surfers from the Gold Coast and Sydney starting making the trip north. “Everyone who was there in early ‘60s recalls Noosa having its very own sort of crowd problem – a shortage of boardriders. Anyone surfing would have to hunt around for a couple of others to keep them company, because this was the era when no-one wanted to ride the waves alone. That would be anti-social. If you were going to have fun, best to share it with your mates. “By that stage on the weekends there would be around 20 people in the water. During the week though it was incredibly empty to the point of it feeling sharky. You would be thinking I am the only person in the water, I wish someone else would come out to halve the chance of being taken. There were just so very few young people who lived in Noosa. I recall there was initially ten of us who got on the bus to go to school.”
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Noosa First Point, 1968 Photo: Stuart Scott
Gary arrived with his parents some years later, but the number of surfers in the water had not yet changed dramatically. Originally from New Zealand his family moved to Norfolk Island in the late ‘40s then to Avalon on Sydney’s Northern Beaches in 1954 before moving to Noosa in late 1967. “Mum and dad decided we would move to Queensland, and they weren’t keen on the Gold Coast. I reasoned with them it had to be somewhere where there was decent surf. May ’67 is how I came to know how good Noosa could get (through the pages of Surf World magazine that documented a cyclone swell that hit Noosa in April of that year) so I suggested here. “They looked at an old shop at Tewantin that turned out to be a disaster but whilst here they heard the Kiosk at National Park was for sale and they ended up buying that. For two years I lived in the caravan outside the Kiosk, which made me the surfer living nearest to the National Park, legally anyway.”
Two views of Hastings Street in the '60s from where the roundabout is out front of the Surf Club now: ABOVE, looking toward Noosa Woods and BELOW, looking toward First Point. Photos: Gary Clist
Numerous articles in surf publications about Noosa’s dream waves followed. The late ‘60s saw it become flavour of the month and by 1970, the word was well and truly out and people started flocking to the place.
ABOVE: Stuart Scott in 1965.
As Stuart reasons, “Noosa was a place with something for everyone one. First Point is what everyone initially came to know with its string of neat, friendly peaks. Little Cove or Johnson’s Bay as it’s known, or Little Beach by a handful of long-time locals, was a playground of smaller waves, then there was the long walls of National Park, manicured Tea Tree Bay and further around big waves could be found at Granite, although no one really ventured round there in those days, with a board anyway. They were too heavy and it was just too far.” SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: THE HISTORY TOP: Congestion in National Park parking lot. ABOVE: The Kiosk the Clist family ran, and the caravan where Gary lived RIGHT: The view from Noosa Hill Photos: Gary Clist
MAIN: Bob McTavish Photo: Mal Sutherland
He recalls how the “‘60s was such a pivotal decade, when surfing went from a sport to a subculture. Nowhere was this more evident than in Noosa. Here, these were the Surfin’ Sixties, not the Swinging Sixties. All the hubbub was happening far away, in places with bright lights. Noosa had only its charm and its surf, and that was enough. No wonder the spot became etched firmly on the world’s surfing map then as a place of some significance, a melting pot which helped produce a fresh approach to surfing, and progressive hardware to suit the new-era thinking.” As Norm Innes, the former president of the Noosa Malibu Club points out in Stuart’s book, Noosa can claim a vital place in the development of surfing in Australia, predominantly because of the influence of Nat Young, design guru Bob McTavish and ex-Californian kneeboarder George Greenough. “These guys individually were all talented surfers, and they were all talented designers. However, the synergy between the three of them was something 60
special, and that magic was unleashed in Noosa over one momentous winter. It was here that they pushed the boundaries of surfboard design into what ultimately became a design revolution.” Norm is, of course, referring to the shortboard revolution. He goes on to say, “In the ‘70s the focus shifted down to Byron and then over to Bali, but the ‘60s was certainly a special time for Noosa. Funnily enough, it was the design revolution in surfing (inspired in Noosa) that was also responsible for the shift of the spotlight to other areas. As surfboards and surfing changed, the waves that could be ridden well also expanded. “Of course, with the rediscovery of longboards, and the passion now for researching surfing’s roots, Noosa is very much back on the map. With the ‘Noosa Festival of Surfing’ we are very respectful of that history, and at the same time we are also embracing the ethic of the modern ‘waterman’, which means surfing on all types of
equipment – to suit the conditions at the time. And what better place than Noosa to also celebrate the culture of surfing in all its forms: Waves, music, film and history.”
LOCAL BEACH BEAT The founder of Sunshine Coast’s Beach Beat Surfboards, Al Hing, was another to grow up on Hastings Street in the '60s. “Our house was right on the beach where Annabel’s Restaurant was (that is now….). Mum and dad were working pubs. We had the house for about 7 years and that was where I caught the surf bug. Days when McTavish and crew where surfing the points.”
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Mick Wilson (Julian's dad), December 1966. Photo: Stuart Scott
CAR TROUBLE: "While checking out the surf at National Park the driver didn’t check if the handbrake was on. He and his mates were outside, leaning on the car, watching the surf, and the next minute it rolls forward onto the boulders. Couldn’t move it, tide was coming in so they salvaged what they could and set her ablaze. The ocean took care of the rest." Gary Clist
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NOOSA: THE HISTORY Photo: Bean
FIRST BOARD BUILDERS There is some conjecture as to who was the first to build surfboards in Noosa, both in a commercial or ‘backyard’ sense. Stuart informs me, “I recall a very dependable local, Derek Male, who died not long ago, telling me how Nat Young's brother (no idea how many brothers Nat has/had) made boards in a shed behind Laguna House in the late 1960s. He was very definite, because he and even-hotter brother Robert got some.” Although they never met, Stuart also recalls “some strange character who popped up making surfboards next to our house.” Indeed, when I showed him a photo we had received some years prior from Bean of Balin Surfboards in Gunnamatta showing him with a John Devereux in 1972 standing outside Wave Flow Surfboards in Hastings Street, Stuart came to the realisation that this may have been the very gentleman in question. “They must have started a year or two after
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ABOVE: Wave Flow (left) and Stuarts' house (right)
my parents sold our place. On the left in the attached pic is the rear of what became the Wave Flow `factory'. Looks all pretty humble, fibro and wooden shacks, but that's what Noosa was back then. That's not Hastings Street, but the back of our house and next door. The Wave Flow place was an old holiday cottage set well back from the street.” Bean fondly remembers their prime position. “Behind the factory were mangroves all the way to Tewantin – now Noosa Sound – with the biggest mud crabs you could imagine that used to walk around the factory!” A shaper that can lay claim to being the first in the great Noosa area though is former Brisbane boat builder Trevor Hewston. He had begun shaping boards in Brisbane but had decided on a sea change for want of a better lifestyle and the chance to regularly surf and fish. Hewston Surfboards began building boards at Sunshine Beach in the old Green Gables Café.
Gary (Clist), who has a fair size collection of over 120 vintage surfboards, primarily with some sort of connection to Noosa, has a number of Hewston boards from this era. He fondly remembers the all-star cast who worked with Trevor at some time or another. “Like all the operations back then, people would come and go. Over time there was Mick Wilson, Bob Aitken, Bruce McKean, Brian Cooney and Kevin Platt. This is one of Kevin’s from ’67 with a rolled bottom. It is very advanced for its time. Trevor made a replica of it for me as a gift a few years back. “From Sunshine Beach Trevor moved to Noosaville to the old Fish Board around 1970 where he worked in conjunction with Shane (Shane Stedman of Shane Surfboards fame), when Shane was undertaking a big expansion.” The operation was renamed Shane Noosa. Trevor’s old premises at Sunshine Beach were taken over by a couple of guys lead by Len
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F I N E Q U A L I TY LONGBOARDS , CLAS S IC RETRO A N D H YB R ID BOARDS BY PAUL W INTER
Horsey under the name of Alpaca Surfboards for a brief stint of about six months before it became the home of Kevin Platt Surfboards in 1970. 1972/73 marked the arrival of one of the pioneers of Australian board building to Noosa, the master himself, Bill Wallace. Together with shaper Frank Latta, who was working with Bill in Brookvale and subsequently followed him north, they set up the Wallace Surfboards factory in Rene Street, Noosaville. Noosa’s surfing history is without doubt immensely rich and
intriguing. Unfortunately however, it is too extensive for these few pages within our special Noosa edition. For more on this subject we suggest you pick up a copy of Stuart Scott’s book, Noosa: Surfing the '60s from Noosa Longboards in Hastings Street. As for the amount of change the area has experienced since that time, this is best left for the likes of Gary Clist who still lives in the Noosa Shire today.
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“Noosa is still home. I still love it. Compared to what it used to be like it’s crazy but then again, everywhere else is crazier.”
GARY COLLECTS HISTORY FROM SURFBOARDS, SURF MAGAZINES, POSTCARDS, RECORDS, BOOKS AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. “I didn’t start collecting until the 90s. I wish I had begun earlier because my father had the Second Hand Shop in Tewantin for most of the 70s and early 80s.” “This is the pride and joy, made by Bob McTavish. After watching George (Greenough) ride his balsa kneeboard he made it the next day. The story behind it is detailed in his book More Stoked. Bob raced back to the factory, found a damaged mal blank, which you can tell from the huge stringer, and even glassed it himself. He was in such a hurry he didn’t even cut the lap lines that is why it says in inverted commas “glassed” by Bob McTavish.”
NOOSA HEADS, AUSTRALIA W W W.FU Y US UR FB O AR D S . CO M
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DO YOU KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT NOOSA SURF HISTORY? History's a difficult story to pin down, so Gary's keen for any info on 'old-time' shapers around Noosa, to help fill in the gaps and get the most comprehensive history down. Contact: clista51@gmail.com
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THOMAS LEITCH
& THE NO O SA FE S T IVAL O F S U R FIN G
WITH SUCH A DEDICATED
focus on all things Noosa and its undeniable appeal as a surf destination, it would be remiss of us to not include The Noosa Festival of Surfing, acclaimed to be the world’s largest surfing competition in terms of participants. Last year reportedly more than 600 entries from 14 different countries were received for the contest.
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Now in its 24th year it is an 8-day long celebration of surfing and surf culture and owes much of its success to the hard work and support of the Noosa Malibu Club, local surf personality Phil Jarratt, and founding, long-time sponsors of the event, Classic Malibu’s Peter and Janet White. But rather than feature Phil, we thought it would be refreshing to speak
with a man who has been actively involved in the festival for a number of years both in an unofficial and official capacity, Thomas Leitch, the festival’s present day Media Manager. Whilst discussing plans for this year’s festival, it was nice to find out a little about Thomas himself and how he developed such a love for surfing.
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Tom Wegener Photo: Noosa Festival of Surfing/ Ian Borland
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Thomas Leitch. Photo supplied
“I really don’t have any great surfing story to tell. I was born in the SouthWest of England in a little farming town called Totnes (South Devon). It’s not far from the centre of UK surfing but growing up I was more into skating than surfing. I had bought the occasional copy of Wavelength (a UK surf mag) and even met Tom Curren and Tom Carroll when I went and saw the 1987 Fosters Surf Masters surf event in Newquay, but surfing at that stage didn’t consume me.”
crêpery but fairly soon after scored a job at Ho’okupu (surf shop). The owner, Oliver Certa, gave me a really amazing education in surfboard design and surf history. Oliver and I were of a similar mindset and it was the history of surfing and, for want of a better cliché that early ‘soulful’ aspect of surfing that really appealed. I latched on to all the old surf stories about guys like Tom Blake, the Duke and Doc Paskowitz. It fascinated me.”
Thomas’ dad is Australian and his mum English, which for him meant his life growing up in the English countryside was somewhat different.
From Ho’okupu, Thomas got a job managing a sports DVD distribution company where, in conjunction with a film premiere he had organised, he wrote his first article.
“Dad was in the Navy and was quite ocean-minded and I guess that is where I possibly gained an appreciation and love of the ocean. He taught us to have an understanding of the sea and how to bodysurf and sail. So I guess the ocean was always a big part of my life but it wasn’t until I emigrated to Australia in 2000 that I got into surfing. I guess the Australian beach lifestyle was always in my blood, it was just that I was yet to truly experience it.” Thomas had family in Canberra and so, having arrived in Sydney, he bought himself a car (read rust-bucket) and made his way to the nation’s capital. He later set off for the South Coast of NSW with the plan of working his way north. Thomas made it as far as Byron Bay before his car broke down. “There are certainly worse places to be stuck. I initially got work in a local 68
“We used to buy our surf DVDs for Ho’okupu from Aerial Entertainment, who were also based in Byron. I ended up working for Aerial and one of the movies we distributed was Thomas Campbell’s The Seedling, which I absolutely fell in love with from the moment I watched it. When I heard his next movie Sprout was about to be released, I suggested Thomas come over and we could organise a film premiere in Sydney to promote the launch of the DVD. He happened to be coming out anyway and we teamed up with a few different people including Monster Children, who were doing an art show with him as well. “I phoned Bruce Channon and John Brasen from ALB (Australian Longboarding Magazine) and PLB (Pacific Longboarder Magazine) respectively and informed them what was happening and suggested I could take some photos and do a little piece on the premiere. I had done a degree in photography and whilst I am not a great photographer, I can work a camera. As far as the writing goes, I thought I would just fill in the blanks.
Photo: Noosa Festival of Surfing/ Ian Borland
“It may sound weird but I enjoyed an Australian upbringing. We were definitely the weird family on the block. I can remember dad standing outside in the snow one year cooking sausages on the BBQ.
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Joel Tudor. Photo: Noosa Festival of Surfing/ Ian Borland
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“The guys were both stoked with the article and came back to me saying, ‘If I had anything else planned in the future they would be interested.’ So I really fell into writing by complete accident really. With that experience I committed to giving freelance a go but after six weeks I was struggling to make ends meet when Australia’s Surfing Life gave me a call and offered me a job out of the blue. I was blown away.” Thomas spent a year as contributing and online editor for Australia’s Surfing Life, which gave him a unique and in-depth insight into the surf industry. “Dare I say it, it was horrible. It is a great mag, but that side of surfing just wasn’t me. On one side I felt like I was selling my soul. But it was such an incredible experience and I would never be able to thank them enough for the education and opportunity they gave me and for the experiences I had. “I once got to sit down with Kelly Slater for a 20 minute interview and then spend the next 45 minutes 70
talking to him, one-on-one, with no one else around, about family and philosophy and ecology and things like that – he’s a very different person to his public persona. I got to talk to the likes of Occy and Mick Fanning, Shaun Tomson and Pete Townend. It was phenomenal. For all the bits I didn’t like, it was an exceptional experience. “After Surfing Life I really got into the freelance side of things and started writing much more about things I wanted to write about.” Since that time Thomas has had numerous articles published in the likes of The Surfers Journal, Slide and Pacific Longboarder and it was whilst writing for the latter he developed a relationship with Phil Jarratt that eventually saw him land a job working for the Noosa Festival of Surfing. “I had recently moved to Noosa having falling in love with the place whilst writing a piece for PLB. Pretty soon after moving here I got a job with Classic Malibu and to this day, Peter and Janet are like family to me. I love them to pieces.
They are wonderful people. “Classic Mal have always been connected with the festival and one day I was working our stall down at the festival when Phil came over and asked me to do a bit of guest commentating. My immediate reaction was, “Who am I? There are some amazing people around here, why me?” There were so many more knowledgeable people than me but for some reason Phil came to me. Anyhow I was happy to help out and from the next year he asked me to come on board as the Media Manager and Co-Commentator for the festival. I think that was four years ago now.” Thomas continued his work with the Noosa Festival of Surfing when the show was in town but moved back to Byron for a couple of years to be closer to his son. He continued his freelance writing and educated himself in graphic design and began creating websites. It was then he came to meet and thus began his association with Mike Jahn and Vanessa Thompson, two of the founders of the Byron Bay Surf Festival.
“I built their second website and wrote a lot of their initial press releases, conducted interviews at the festival and so on. I would like to think I played a part in the Byron Bay Surf Festival. I wasn’t involved this year but Mike and Vanessa have an amazing thing going on now.” It was Noosa and indeed the Noosa Festival of Surfing that recently lured him back here once more with Thomas’ role as Media Manager expanding beyond just the dates of the festival itself. “In the past my work had just been in and around the festival and of course during it but Phil has asked me to run the media side of things throughout the year.” To which end I asked Thomas what was scheduled for the festival this year. “This year we are really lucky to once again be hosting the Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational. It is a fantastic event because it has completely thrown the rulebook out the window. Joel
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has completely reinvented the concept of a surfing competition to ideally suit the traditional log riding formula. High performance longboarding criteria doesn’t apply and because it is an invitational, with Joel at the pinnacle of that kind of surfing, he pretty much invites anyone he wants, which means we are lucky enough to host some of the best exponents of the modern day style in the world. It is breathtaking. “Our Logger and Old Mal divisions are on again and have also become popular drawcards. The Deus Body Whomp is coming back as well and I am looking forward to competing in that.” Indeed Thomas’ passion for longboarding and “going with the flow of the ocean” is equally matched by his love of bodysurfing. “I guess it is also about me connecting with how I first got into surfing and connecting with the ocean. When you bodysurf you are trying to harness the ocean’s energy rather than fight against it.
Mark Cunningham. Photo: Noosa Festival of Surfing/ Ian Borland
“The last three years in particular I have really latched on to it. When Keith Malloy’s movie Come Hell or High Water came out, that was it. It further ignited my passion for bodysurfing, plus last year we had Mark Cunningham (renowned world champion bodysurfer) come out for the festival, which was an absolute pleasure. I am hoping he will come out again this year.”
surfing in Noosa is just something that people do. “Surfing is just an ingrained part of dayto-day life - from your multi-million dollar property developer to the postman, retailer, real estate agent, whoever it might be… they are all on exactly the same page. They just surf. Here in Noosa they don’t care what they surf or where they go for coffee afterwards or what they are wearing. They just surf. In Byron it is such a passionate thing where as in Noosa, it is such a fundamental thing. I love both places but from a personal point of view, that simplicity of a surfing life in Noosa is what I love. “Tom Wegener is a perfect reflection of the Noosa surfer. He is one of the best longboarders in the world. Since the mid 80s he has just been exceptional. Joel Tudor himself said Tom Wegener has been one of the biggest inspirations of his entire life and that is on a single fin, soft-railed fiberglass mal. But look at him now, he is equally frothing on bellyboards and finless wooden toothpicks and he obviously had a huge hand in igniting the rebirth of the alaia. “Tom is quite a good reflection of the Noosa mentality. Just get in the water and ride waves man. Who cares what car you turn up in, what clothes you are wearing, how your hair is styled or what board you are riding... it doesn’t matter, just get out there, enjoy the waves and surf. It is simply about riding a wave, that’s it.” Despite the eloquence of his words, Thomas reasons he is not qualified to make such a statement though, as he is not a former pro, or a legend of the surf industry, to which I reply, ‘Who cares?’
Thomas and I finish our conversation with a brief discussion about the surf culture that exists here in Noosa. Having lived in the two surf meccas that are Byron and Noosa and having been involved in their respective surf festivals as well as working and contributing for numerous surf media outlets, I figured it would be interesting to get Thomas’ perspective on the local surf scene and how it compares to the likes of Byron. “Byron is a huge surf scene. There are amazing, creative people who live there. The surf culture is so rich. Here too in Noosa we have people like Thomas (Bexon) and Jake (Bowery, both of Thomas Surfboards) who are great exponents of that culture, really promoting surf photography, hosting film nights and the like but on the grand scale,
Surfing is surfing. As long as you are having fun who really cares. You don’t need to be a world champion or be an industry heavyweight to have a perspective on surfing and what it means to you. We just love surfing, and that’s is what Smorgasboarder has been all about, right from the outset – having fun in the waves.
Mention Smorgasboa rd for a spec er discounted ial offer1
Thomas Leitch works under the moniker of SubCutanea, creating websites, graphic design and writing for a range of online and print sources for local, national and international businesses and magazines. subcutanea.net For more on the NFOS, see noosafestivalofsurfing.com
Relax, enjoy and unwind, before hitting the town or the surf! FREE WI-FI , Comfort, cleanliness & great vibe
www.flashpackersnoosa.com SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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of talented surf photographers who call Noosa home are two young up-and-coming snappers, ALEX BENAUD and oLIvIA wILLIAMs. We caught up with them recently to talk about their hometown, their passions and what they possibly see the future holds from behind the lens.
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“I HAD SEEN PLENTY OF SURFING PHOTOS FROM AROUND NOOSA BUT NOT MANY WATER SHOTS. I WAS KEEN TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT.”
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NOOSA: FRESH EYES I guess the obvious question to ask first is what drew you to the ocean?
BENAUD WORDS: DAVE SWAN
I was born in Noosa Shire but I grew up in the town of Kin Kin, which is about 40 minutes from the beach. None of my family were that into surfing so I didn’t really get into it until about 3-4 years ago. My mum loves the beach though, so I started to going with her on weekends to give surfing a go. As clichéd as it sounds, my first wave was definitely the catch.
So at what stage did you get into the surf photography side of things? When the waves were on and I was starting out, I didn’t want to tackle the points when they were huge because it was so hard to catch a wave unless you were taking off from behind the rocks. I saw the surfers doing that and thought, ‘Well, I’m not as good as them’ so I figured I may as well get out there with a camera.
I had seen plenty of surfing photos from around Noosa but not many water shots. I was keen to do something different.
So how have things progressed? Well I was really in to film and television in school. I was always into making short films and my friends are really good surfers so after a while I started filming them more and more. Since finishing school last year I have got into it even more. I work nights at a local café, which allows me to shoot all day.
Your gear? I have a Nikon D700. I like it because you can film and take photos, plus it is not too hard to use. I think it is not so much about the gear itself but how you use it anyhow. Aside from the camera I have an Aquatech water-housing with a fisheye lens for barrel shots and a 50mm for other in-water/ landscape shots.
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NoosA: FRESH EYES
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yoU hAvE workED qUItE A BIt wIth LocAL rIppErs, hAyDEN AND thoMAs cErvI, how DID yoU coME to kNow thosE gUys? Hayden and TC live at Sunrise. I had seen them out surfing when I was just starting out and I thought, “Holy... Who are those guys?” RIGHT: Alex
I managed to grab some shots of them and from time to time would send them the photos. Eventually we hooked up for a shoot and got some really good photos. Hayden and Tom make my job easy. They are unbelievable surfers, are always keen to surf and we work well together. We are always bouncing ideas off one another.
“IN THE MORNING AND LATE AFTERNOON YOU HAVE SO MANY COLOURS TO WORK WITH AND SO MANY MORE POSSIBILITIES IN TERMS OF INTERESTING LIGHTING” 76
Other than those guys I just like grabbing photos of my friends. They are not the best surfers but I like simply catching their personal style. They may not do the big airs and so forth but they are as keen as I am and will charge.
thE pErfEct shot? I have been experimenting with the fisheye lens. I like how you can capture the surfer as well as the surrounding landscape. I have a shot I took recently of Hayden doing
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a bottom turn and it is cool how you can capture the wave and see right down the line as well as the beautiful landscape of Noosa. It is just nice when a shot all comes together; the light, the surfer and to be lucky enough to be there to capture it. In the morning and late afternoon you have so many colours to work with and so many more possibilities in terms of interesting lighting. I particularly like shooting at sunset, getting a nice silhouette of Hayden doing a big air.
spEAkINg of tAkINg photos oN DUsk... ANy hAZArDs wIth thE JoB? Late night down the (Noosa) River mouth always get me thinking but it is where you can see the sun at its lowest point. Other than that, being Noosa, is people running over you. Hayden has hit me the most times though, but nothing serious yet. The most serious ones have been selfinflicted while surfing.
the surf scene. Then later in the year the dream is to head off to Europe, hire a van and travel along the French coastline. I recently came back from Indo, which was my first overseas trip, and I guess it has given me the travel bug. Travel and photography, they go hand in hand don’t they? I want to experience more and take it all in.
BEforE yoU go, cAN yoU gIvE Us A coUpLE of LocAL tIps ABoUt yoUr fAvoUrItE BrEAk AND whAt yoU LovE Most ABoUt NoosA? In terms of Noosa, it’s the laid back lifestyle and the blue water. Surf wise, because I’m a goofy footer, the northern pocket of A Bay (Alexandra Bay). Walking the trail there always makes it fell like a bit of an adventure as well. Other than that, the nice thing around here is there are so many open beaches where you can find a bank and have it all to yourself with a couple of friends.
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One of the youngest, active photographers from the Noosa region right now is Olivia Williams. Olivia’s an NZ-born 14-year-old who has recently started her own photography business, Drop in the Ocean Photography.
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Olivia Williams
“NOOSA, LITTLE COVE, IS ONE OF MY FAVOURITE SPOTS TO PHOTOGRAPH BECAUSE OF ALL THE FRIENDLY SURFERS.”
Olivia’s gear
“I was born in Auckland, but I lived most of my life on the Sunshine Coast,” young Olivia Williams tells us. “Noosa, Little Cove, is one of my favourite spots to photograph because of all the friendly surfers. Noosa is a great surfing spot with a great atmosphere, but hard to get a park. Two years ago, Olivia started showing a keen interest in photography, with a knack for capturing a moment at the right time. Now she enjoys taking photos of landscapes, the ocean and surfing in particular. “I like doing land photography, but I do enjoy doing water photography because you can connect with the surfer in the water,” she says. Her photography equipment for in-water shots started off as only a GoPro camera, but she recently brought herself a SPL water housing and a Canon DSLR with money she saved up from selling her photos. The new gear brings Olivia that one step closer to the quality of shots that fired her up in the first place. “The people that inspire me are Willem Ungermann, Matt Draper and Samuel Hall. They all have the sickest shots, but they are all unique. I’m currently being mentored by Sebastian from Glass in Cotton Tree. My mum, Jennie Williams, has helped me so much in launching my business and promoting my photos.” 80
With the business, Drop In The Ocean Photography, Olivia has big plans for the future to be inspirational to others too. “One day I dream to be a famous female photographer in Hawaii, being in the shore break getting the shot - and also capturing the movement of Sea Shepherd and the amazing work they do.”
Drop_In_The_ocean_Photography Olivia_Photography_@hotmail.com
For prints of Olivia’s work, visit the Coolum Boardroom, Wally’s Water Gallery Marcoola and Bean There, Done That coffee shop in Pacific Paradise.
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1 / 11 BARTLETT STREET, NOOSAVILLE, QUEENSLAND
SHOTGUN SURFBOARDS SURFER /SHAPER TULLY ST JOHN. PHOTO MATT DONNELLY
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NOOSA: RECOLLECTIONS
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Dave vs Tea Tree Marshall and Eve
The swan boys, circa 1978
At Surf World
GREAT MEMORIES OF LEGENDARY LOCALS WORDS: DAVE SWAN
BILL AND BETTY WALLACE
are local legends. A feature on Noosa would not be complete without making mention of them both. Bill is of course famous for being one of Australia’s first surfboard manufacturers. We had the great pleasure of catching up with him a couple of years back (Smorgasboarder #13). Bill used to shape my dad’s surfboards and the two shared a special bond. Bill moved his surfboard manufacturing business here to Noosa from Brookvale in the early 70s. Until 2 years ago he was still making his hollow wood Okanuis and Toothpick replicas. Betty was every bit as famous as Bill amongst surfers through the late 70s right up until 2003. In ’78 she started Sunshine Coast Snacks and Things in a little arcade on the beach side of Hasting Street selling her famous $1 burgers. Pretty soon it became known by all and sundry as Betty’s Burgers and the name stuck. Any surfer worth 82
their salt and old enough to have lived here or visited these parts during that period would have fond memories of lining up soaking wet, fresh out of the surf, for one of Betty’s delicious burgers. You would be so full afterwards you would have to sit on the beach for an hour before you could reenter the water, otherwise you would be feeding the fishies. When we last spoke with Bill he recalled the reason why he and Betty moved to Noosa way back when, “Well I heard of how much fun Bob Evans and Ken Swan, Bill Wallace
McTavish were having up here and I wanted to have some fun too.” Another close family friend originally from Melbourne, Marshall Dick, was drawn to Noosa in the late ‘70s. Together with his late wife Eve, they took over Noosa Surf World in the Junction. Marsh recently told me of his initial motivation for the move. “Well the weather was definitely a part of it – straight out of cold Melbourne to sub tropical Noosa. Plus it was a great place to raise the kids. “From the first time I visited it just had a really good atmosphere that appealed. It was really different to anywhere else I had been. I had left my previous job in Melbourne and was looking to buy a business up here and so it was we came to buy Surf World. Both Eve and I worked in the store. It was a great shop. Sorry I ever sold it. We had it for about 4-5 years. “At the time we were selling
Big brother, Mike
Quiksilver boardshorts I think for about $15 along with Billabong. Board wise we carried a range of San Juans and surfboards by local guy Darrell Dell Rooster, as he was known.” I certainly have fond memories of Marsh’s shop because it was here mum and dad purchased my first foamie and my older brother Mike’s first fiberglass board, a sweet new San Juan. Both were quickly christened in the monster shore break at Tea Tree Bay, which the photos lay testament to. We were lucky to have survived that surf... And by the way, surfing in dick togs back then was permitted and considered very cool. Ahh... The memories come flooding back. I’ve always loved Noosa.
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS
SERENA BROOKE PROFESSIONAL SURFER
I love the national park and the awareness people have for their health and well being. I particularly love Tea tree when it is pumping!
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Photo: Francois Clement -www.facebook.com/pages/Francois-Photography/762750933785113
There’s no better tour guide than a local. We asked a few we know just what it is they love about home. Believing his own head too ugly for publishing Stu gave us this photo of team rider Kirra Green wearing Voice boardies. Photo: Elliot Gray
STU BENDLE
PIP COVELL
LOUISE TERRY
“It’s way too cold in Victoria (where Stu’s originally from). I holidayed here every year in a row for 12 years and figured if I like it that much, I best move here. The cruncher was an 8˚ surf I had at Merricks (Beach on the Mornington Peninsula).
“I just think I am very, very lucky to wake up every day in such a beautiful part of the world. I am so lucky to live, work and play at Sunshine Beach and have Noosa on my doorstep.”
“Where else can you be in wilderness spotting koalas and wallabies in their natural habitat, listening to rainforest birds, kookaburras and black cockatoos, and just 15 minutes walk later be seated beachfront at some of Australia’s best restaurants?
DESIGNER/ DIRECTOR, VOICE INC.
“The rain was hitting you sideways across the face and was so cold it was like being stuck with needles. I thought ‘That’s it, I am not doing this anymore.’ Now I live in a climate that’s warm all year round and get to design clothing to match.”
PRINCIPAL, SUNSHINE BEACH REAL ESTATE
MARKETING MANAGER, TOURISM NOOSA
“The compact size of where we live, paired with unparalleled natural beauty, an incredible food scene, world class events, nearby green hinterland towns and a creative community means that it’s hard to think of anywhere better to live.” SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Despite being just 19 years of age, Hayden Cervi has managed to engender a lot of respect amongst the many locals surfing the points of Noosa. His strong personality, exceptional surfing skills and charisma to match have seen him become well known throughout the surfing community of Noosa. Guided by his two older brothers and his father, Chuck, Hayden has the right company to help him succeed in what he loves. I spoke with him recently about surfing in Noosa and what it was like growing up here.
WORDS AND PHOTOS: ALEX BENAUD
ANY TO �
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS Photo: Alex Benaud SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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“IF YOU’VE BEEN RAISED HERE, SURFING IN NOOSA, YOU SEEM TO KNOW ANYONE AND EVERYONE” SO HAYDEN, GIVE US A BRIEF BACKGROUND ON YOURSELF? Well, I was born and raised here, born down at the local Nambour hospital. Noosa is a nice place to live in, the energy is always positive, especially in the water.
WHAT’S IT LIKE IN THE LINE-UP? IS THERE SOME SORT OF RELATIONSHIP THE LOCALS ALL SHARE? Well if you’ve been raised here, surfing in Noosa, you seem to know anyone and everyone. I think a lot of the respect comes from my Dad; he’s a well-known character within the surfing community of Noosa and values respect above all. He’ll tell you what’s what, and if we (me and my brothers) ever played up, he’d be the first to pull us back into line.
YOUR TWO OLDER BROTHERS SURF AS WELL, HAS THAT ASSISTED YOUR DEVELOPMENT? Yeah well, they are both really talented so that pushes me to surf better all the time. We are more friends than just brothers, which is good because we all get along in the water… But there’s always that secret rivalry. When they’re surfing well, actually when anyone is surfing well out in the water, it makes me want to push myself as far as I can go. There’s a lot of talented people around Noosa, so we all kind of bounce off each other’s energy.
THE CROWDS? I think Noosa needs to step back a bit. I know it’s brutal, but when the locals were punching out people back in the day it taught people a line of respect and how to behave in the water. I’m not saying that it should go back to that but something needs to be done to stop people from thinking any wave is their wave.
AWAY FROM THE NOOSA SURF SCENE, WHAT DO YOU EXPECT OR THINK NOOSA AS A WHOLE WILL BE LIKE IN 20 YEARS? Well I hope not so much like the Gold Coast! I hope it still keeps the same relaxed vibe. I dunno, I think it’s turning into a version of Byron Bay, which is kind of cool.
YOU’VE JUST COME BACK FROM INDONESIA, WHAT ARE THE CONTRASTS BETWEEN NOOSA AND INDONESIA? It’s just a completely opposite world. It’s such a third world country but everyone over there seems to have a smile on their faces no matter how little they have. I think everyone in our society is caught up in money and whatnot, which brings them down to a different, negative level when they haven’t experienced the lifestyle of Indonesia and can appreciate how lucky we really are here.
WHERE DO YOU SEE THE SURFING SIDE OF NOOSA IN 20 YEARS? I think there are a lot of up-and-coming surfers with a lot of potential. You see all the really young grooms getting pushed into waves by their dads like we used to… Everyone is very encouraging and positive. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS
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CAFÉ LE MONDE IS WITHOUT DOUBT NOOSA’S MOST ICONIC HANGOUT FOR SURFERS OF ALL AGES. ITS RELAXED, OPEN-PLAN RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE BAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FAVOURITE AMONGST LOCALS AND VISITORS. IN SOME WAYS IT IS AN INSTITUTION, ONE THAT HAS GONE THROUGH QUITE A FEW CHANGES OVER THE YEARS BUT A RECENT REFRESHED APPROACH HAS TAKEN THINGS TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL.
I always had a fair inkling the man behind Café Le Monde was a keen surfer but did not quite realise just how passionate he would be. Indeed Ryan Taylor and his entire family are the epitome of the Smorgasboarder reader and what an interesting story he had to tell. I think anyone who has been to Noosa has dined at Café Le Monde. To not do so would be like not visiting the Opera House when in Sydney. Established in the late ‘70s by a French couple, in 1989 it became owned and operated by the Taylor family. Ryan’s father, Perry, a former Ansett captain was dining at the café during the ’89 pilot strike when the owner expressed interest in selling. At the time the family were considering a move to Hawaii. However with such an opportunity to buy this cornerstone of Noosa’s food and fashion mecca, with the kind of floor space most restaurants could only dream of, he jumped at the chance and within a week Perry was the new owner. The family moved from their Brisbane base to Peregian and later to Sunshine Beach where Ryan and his two brothers, Adam and Jaxon, attended Sunshine Beach State School. Perry 90
gave up flying commercially and ran the restaurant, while his wife Vivienne, who is a GP, set up a private practice in Noosa. According to Ryan his dad always had an affinity with Noosa recalling the countless surf stories he had been told through the years of him surfing from Double Island down to Yaroomba ‘before there were crowds back in the early 1970s’. “Dad particularly likes to tell the story of how a cyclone that was headed for Noosa saw the actual eye of the storm sit right on top of it. It caused flash flooding which cut the town off. No one could get in or out. As a result he and a group of mates had Noosa virtually all to themselves with the points on fire.” Following school and then university Ryan started work at Billabong not long after it was publicly listed and had become a truly global enterprise. “I knocked on their door every day for 9 months until the HR lady said if I came back one more time she would call the cops.”
Photo courtesy of Ryan Taylor
WORDS: DAVE SWAN
His persistence however paid off and Ryan eventually landed himself a job there and worked his way up to National Sales Manager of Billabong’s surf hardware arm, Network Surf. After a 10 year stint at Billabong, Ryan left to join the family business, which by now incorporated Belmondos. His dad Perry had returned to his love of flying but now business jets for private aviation companies. Older brother Adam was running the business. Adam encouraged his younger brother Ryan to come on board as General Manager. Not long after however, Adam took off to pursue a Bolivian girl he had met. All of a sudden Ryan was running the show and juggling an expanded business and a young family – he has three kids with wife Johanna. That was 7 years ago. It was not long after that they endured a family health scare that prompted Ryan and his wife Johanna to pursue an alternative approach to their family diet. So inspired were they by the results of their son’s new found health and indeed their own, they decided to pursue a complete organic approach to Belmondos and to also introduce
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these healthy options to their menu at Café Le Monde. “Mum is a doctor but has always been into natural and eastern medicine as well. Her recent focus has been digestive health so she put us onto the ‘GAPS Diet’ (Gut and Psychology Syndrome), which is essentially a way of eating to re-balance and heal/seal the gut wall (its aim is to halt the flood of toxins from pathogenic strains dominating the gut environment into the bloodstream causing an unpredictable mix of autoimmune symptoms). It was founded by a lady (Dr. Natasha Campbell-McBride) who was a neurosurgeon who cured her son’s autism when he was 12 years old.” “Long story short, we put the whole family on the GAPS diet stripping back everything - no grain, everything organic, we fermented a lot of our food and cut out all processed foods and refined sugars. We were really feeling good and felt we were getting results so I looked at the food we were selling at our Belmondos food market at the time and thought, ‘This is all wrong. Get rid of it all.’” “First I convinced my younger brother Jaxon and then together we pulled out every bit of product that had numbers on the back or preservatives or that were covered in pesticides. We gave our suppliers an opportunity to change. We knew we would go backwards before we would go forwards. We took a hit. But I am proud of what we achieved and that everything we now sell are wholefoods and organic. Clandestino Roasters, who Ryan and Jaxon founded, now source certified organic specialty coffee from the Yungas region in Bolivia, with Adam on the ground with the growers. These estate coffees, origins and blends are now on the grinders in more than 15 quality focused cafes on the Sunshine Coast. The next venture was organic, natural fermentation sourdough bread. Tanglewood Organic Sourdough Bakery was born with artisan baker Jason Higgins. People who were gluten intolerant and who would curl up with nausea after eating gluten have eaten our bread with zero after effect. Its predigested grain at its best.” Diners would be pleased to know their freshly baked sourdough bread is now on the breakfast menu at Café Le Monde as is their certified organic coffee from Bolivia, as well as organic Mali Burgers (a $10 burger on a custom baked brioche bun with a certified organic pattie) and a range of certified organic cold pressed juices. “What we achieved at Belmondos encouraged me to take a totally different focus to Café Le Monde. I started looking at what we are doing and our reason for being in business. When I was at Billabong I was always thinking globally but my perspective changed and with my business here, I started thinking more
FIFO
SURF
Ryan’s dad Perry is back flying commercially again. When he builds up enough hours it provides an opportunity to duck across to Fiji or Indo for a flyin, fly-out surf mission. Recently he and Ryan (Ryan also has his pilot’s license) flew to a surf camp in Rote and Indo in a seaplane. They ripped the back seats out of to fit extra fuel and a few boards.
local. This was part of the reason for pursuing our other new venture Noosa Cleanse, which Johanna runs. Noosa Cleanse range certified organic cold-pressed juices, nut milks and meat broths. As the juices and nut milks are raw and unpasteurised they have a short shelf life so our market is most definitely local. We now have a couple of health-focused local surfers who are ambassadors, like Serena Brooke and Harry Bryant.”
Incorporating 28 years of experience creating bespoke furniture with a passion for surfing and hollow wooden surfboards.
Hollow Wooden Surfboards Surfboard Building Courses Paulownia Timber & Supplies
With the return of good health to family, business and leisure, Ryan and his family are living the Sunshine Coast lifestyle to their fullest. Ryan is happy now that morning surfs have evolved from 3 wave sessions to 6 waves. “That’s a 100% improvement!” he states proudly. Cafe Le Monde’s is an iconic outdoor restaurant and lounge bar presenting customers with the ultimate in ambient relaxed beach side dining. Their service is fast, friendly and efficient and now they have an even more exciting, healthy menu to match. Service starts from 6am with the lounge bar open until midnight.
182 Crockford St Northgate Qld 4013 CALL 07 3256 9000 enquiries@bywaterdesign.com.au
SUMMER 2015 | BYWATERDESIGN.COM.AU SMORGASBOARDER
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Just a few minute's drive sout h from Noosa! 6 L O R R A I N E AV E , M A R C O O L A B E A C H Q L D ( 0 7 ) 5 4 4 8 8 5 6 0 S U R F B OA R D S • S U R F A RT • S H E L L S • D R I F T WO O D T H I N G S • C H E N I L L E S H O RT S • R E T R O S U N N I E S THONGS • TOWELS • UMBRELLAS • HAMMOCKS • GIFTS • GOPRO CAMERAS... AND SO MUCH MORE S T O C K I N G Q U A L I T Y A U S T R A L I A N - M A D E S U R F B O A R D S B Y T O M W E G E N E R , B U S H R AT, H I G H T I D E , B L A C K A PA C H E & S A S 92
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS
BEES ABOVE: Kat and Pete Hogg
THE HISTORY OF NOOSA’S HIVE SWIMWEAR WORDS: DAVE SWAN
Just as Noosa’s quality point breaks have become known throughout the world, this iconic coastal town has also built a reputation for it’s cosmopolitan lifestyle, culinary magnificence and superb shopping. Noosa itself has become synonymous with fashion and what’s in fashion. Notably it is home to one of the most recognisable and successful beach lifestyle brands in our corner of the globe, Hive Swimwear. Kat Hogg is the owner, director and driving force behind Hive and many of our readers would no doubt recognise her from past articles in Smorgasboarder. Her husband Peter is also actively involved in the business when he is not working as a physio at Noosa Sports and Spinal Physiotherapy, of which he is the co-principal, or off touring the world in his role as Olympic Winter Institute of Australia Sports Physiotherapy Coordinator, a position he has held for over ten years that has seen him involved in four Olympic campaigns, ten world championships and more than ninety winter world cup events. Really, how do people like the Hoggs find the time to do all of this? Both Kat and Pete have always been avid surfers, and it was Kat’s love of surfing coupled with the inability to find suitable swimwear that would stay in place whilst surfing that spurred her on to create Hive, Swimwear that Sticks.
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS
HIVE THROUGH THE YEARS
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The label was born in 2005 in response to this need to create swimwear that was both functional and on trend. Ten years on, both Kat and Peter have utilised their skills together to manage this very successful local brand, which is now distributed to over 60 accounts throughout Australia and New Zealand and to over 20 accounts in Europe coupled with their well-visited and user friendly online store that accounts for close to 50% of their sales. Throughout this time they have continued their unwavering commitment to producing a high quality product. Says Kat, “All of our swimwear is tested under duress by professional athletes to ensure that it stays on, is comfortable and durable. We are so proud so many elite surfers and other girls participating in water sports choose to wear Hive Swimwear because it 'works for them'.�
2014
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NOOSA: CHARACTERS Jaleesa Vincent
AS PETER EXPLAINS, “NOOSA PROVIDES THE PERFECT ENVIRONMENT TO TRAIN, TO SURF, DO SOME SHOOTING AND RELAX. IT'S ALWAYS A PROUD MOMENT TO BRING GUESTS TO THE AREA AND ALL ARE BLOWN AWAY BY THE BEAUTY OF OUR SURROUNDS.” It's this pride in the beauty of their hometown and its neighbouring areas that has inspired both Kat and Pete to prominently feature Noosa in the yearly marketing campaigns, actively supporting and promoting the region. Since the very beginning, Hive have been fully committed and focused on producing quality images using local active girls to market their unique niche product to the world. These pages, looking back over the past decade of Hive, provide a little glimpse into Noosa over the years too, through the eyes of this iconic local brand. www.hiveswimwear.com hiveswimwearaustralia
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ABOVE: Johanna Defay
HIVE'S OWN JOHANNE DEFAY
2014
WCT Rookie of the Year and ranked 8th in the world, Johanne Defay from Réunion Island meets up with the Hoggs following Australian WCT events to train with Pete and to liaise with Kat on product development. Noosa again provides the perfect environment to train, to surf, do some shooting and relax. It's always a proud moment to bring guests to the area.
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NOOSA: THe breAks
my All-Time fAvOuriTe HAs TO be nATiOnAl, THere's A feW secTiOns guArAnTeeD TO spreAD OuT THe crOWDs, buT THen grAniTe AnD THe rivermOuTH useD TO be iDeAl escApes frOm THe crOWDs bAck in THe '70s AnD ‘80s.
Photo: Katrina MacDonald
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LET US FILL YOU IN ON A SECRET... There are
no secret surf spots here. Sure there may be a special little bank that pops up from time to time with less surfers on it, but there are no breaks shrouded in mystery that only the locals know about. Noosa is world famous for its five classic righthand point breaks that deliver super-long perfect corduroy lines, running effortlessly along their leafy headlands.
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Fittingly, Noosa has recently become a National Surfing Reserve. The area extending from Noosa’s River mouth right around Noosa National Park to north Sunshine Beach, incorporating all of Noosa’s iconic point breaks, has been deemed to be of intrinsic environmental, heritage, sporting and cultural value. The bestowing of National Surfing Reserve status is also the perfect fit for a region that holds an international biosphere-reserve status as well.
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THE RIVERMOUTH
FIRST GROYNE
FIRST POINT
JOHNSONS
NATIONAL PARK
BOILING POT
It is dependent on tide, rainfall levels and previous swells, but the banks here are pretty consistent. They deliver both lefts and rights for shortboards through to SUPs. North side of the river if the swell is coming from the east and the south side if it has a bit of northerly to it. On dusk it is probably not the place to be though.
Widely known as a learner's spot the waves here are generally quite gentle and roll on in, which also makes it popular with longboarders.
Is a super mellow righthand point break wave that rolls in mostly over sand. It is one of the most fun waves around when it is 2-3 foot and gets even better in cyclonic swells when it ranges up to 4-5 ft. It’s forgiving, protected from southerly winds and super crowded.
Just around from First Point and just as fun. It can have slightly more power due to a mixture of a sand and rocky bottom. Best at low tide, it can deliver super long peelers. This is where we first saw an alaia in action with Jacob Stuth putting on an exhibition of super smooth soulful glides.
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, S winds
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, S winds
Noosa’s third righthand point break that extends to the Boiling Pot holds more swell than the first two. Yes it can get super crowded and a little feisty, and yes you may take up to an hour to score a good wave by yourself, without someone dropping in, but when you do score you'll certainly head back out.
It’s an exceptional wave. It is possible to surf a wave from the Pot right through to Johnson’s but unless you can rip and handle the crowds, you will probably be left waveless and frustrated. It’s a rocky takeoff and can be sizeable and fast but mellows out as you progress along the wave.
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Best = Tide – low to mid, SE-E swell, SW-S winds
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, SE winds
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, S winds
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my fAvOuriTe is TeA Tree WHen iT's pumping! i'm A gOOfy fOOTer, THe nOrTHern pOckeT Of A bAy... WAlking THe TrAil THere AlWAys mAkes iT fell like A biT Of An ADvenTure As Well.
Serena Brooke 6
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Alex Benaud
"if THe pOinTs Are On, THe bOiling pOT is THe plAce. TeA Tree is HigH perfOrmAnce – All THe gOOD juniOrs TenD TO grAviTATe THere. iT cAn be TOugH TO geT WAves WHen iT is gOOD. yOu neeD TO be Able TO TAke Off frOm beHinD THe rOcks."
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Peter Hogg
Photo: Mike Swaine, Above Photography
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TEA TREE
GRANITE
A-BAY
SUNSHINE BEACH
SUNRISE BEACH
DOUBLE ISLAND
The fourth righthand point break. It has a jacking takeoff, which then barrels and mellows and can deliver exceptionally long rides. It also handles decent swell. There can be various take-off zones from time to time that enables the waves to be shared around.
Further around into Noosa National Park it can be more fickle than the rest but can also deliver some serious punch. Steep takeoffs, powerful sections, Granite’s handles more swell again. It just has to be clean.
Facing east Alexandra Bay delivers a range of beachies breaking left and right. The stretch of beach can have rips so you have to make sure you are a strong surfer/ swimmer to tackle the waves here because you are a fair way away from anyone who can rescue you.
The ‘other side of Noosa’ is a long stretch of open beach with an endless number of sandbanks, constantly shifting to deliver punchy A-frames and long walls. It can also handle some very decent size swell.
Same stretch of beach really just the next ‘beach’ down by name. Of recent times it has had better banks than Sunshine.
A sandy righthand point wave that delivers long peeling gems but it needs a decent ground swell. It is also pretty fickle.
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, SE/E winds
Best = Tide – low to mid, NE swell, SE winds
Best = All Tides, SE swell, W winds
Best = All Tides, NE - SE swell, W winds
Best = All Tides, NE - SE swell, W winds
Best = Tide – low to mid, SE-NE swell, SW-SE winds
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NOOSA: THe breAks
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DOUBLE ISLAND POINT You have to ferry across Noosa River and then need a 4WD to get there (about an hour’s drive). There are numerous cuttings along the way with great little sandbanks from time to time. Can be a little on the men-with-grey-suits side, as you are heading further north towards Fraser Island, where there is seemingly an abundance of those critters.
Photo: Alex Benaud
THE SANDPATCH 100
Whilst Noosa is known for some of the best waves in the world, like everywhere, it has flat and blown out days, and there's nothing you can do about it. Luckily Noosa is not restricted to just one activity, there are plenty of places to explore away from the glorious coastline.
has been built up during the past 500,000 years. The Sandpatch is accessible by a 10km canoe paddle through the dark and reflective colours of the upper Noosa River, followed by a 6km hike through the dense forestry filled with native Australian wildflowers.
The Sandpatch, located between Noosa Heads and Fraser Island on the way to Double Island Point, is a naturally formed sand patch that
The Sandpatch is part of an extensive walking track system that measures up to 102km. The walk consists of dry woodlands, tall and
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Photo: Mike Swaine, Above Photography
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plentiful eucalyptus trees that intertwine with various creeks and riverbeds along the way. The Sandpatch is also apart of the Great Sandy National Park. This 61,750 hectare section is one of the best conserved landscapes of its kind in Eastern Australia. So next time you’re in Noosa and its flat, don’t waste your time waiting for Huey to wake
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SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: WHAT TO DO
TO DO Without doubt Noosa’s number one main attraction for locals and visitors alike is its stunning natural beauty. It is what draws people to this region from around the globe.
I like to adventure up in the Cooloola National Park to the sandpatch. Get in the kayak, push the body. It’s a 14km kayak paddle up there and a 12km walk is the only way you can get there.
The Tanglewood track through the National Park is ideal for walks and runs. It is quite shaded and absolutely stunning. Kat Hogg
Alex Benaud Photo: Tourism Noosa
Bordered by sea, river, rainforest, bushland, lakes and national parks, Noosa is nothing short of breathtakingly beautiful. Most recently the famed points extending around National Park were named a National Surfing Reserve. In 2007 Noosa was recognised as Queensland’s first Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation). It adjoins the Great Sandy Biosphere Reserve,
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the only two adjoining in the world, and it is the gateway to UNESCO World-Heritage Listed Fraser Island. Part of taking in and experiencing Noosa’s natural wonders involves being active. That’s why Noosa’s healthy natural environment incites such a healthy lifestyle and vice versa. So it stands to reason the best thing to do in Noosa is to enjoy what is right in front of you by foot, board, paddle or wheel.
There is nothing better than walking around the place, it is outstanding. It is just gobsmackingly beautiful. And I have been to a lot of places. That walk around the National Park is just THE BEST. Bernie Filer
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OTHER WORTHY MENTIONS • Fitness freak? Tackle the steps. It’s not the “Stairway to Heaven” it’s the “Stairway to Hell”. 200 steps that take you from the eastern end of Hastings Street to Upper Hastings Street (top of Noosa Hill). Continue on to Bayview Drive if you are a real sucker for punishment.
i lOve THe nATiOnAl pArk AnD THe AWAreness peOple HAve fOr THeir HeAlTH AnD Wellbeing. Serena Brooke
i enjOy THe river AnD All THe WATerWAys On my sup WiTH A greAT grOup Of frienDs every WeDnesDAy mOrning. Pip Covell
• Hit the great “Sand Road” that skirts along the coastline from Noosa’s North Shore to Double Island Point and up to Rainbow Beach. The region is part of the Cooloola Recreation Area, Great Sandy National Park. It’s an adventure that will take you past amazing coloured sand cliffs, two shipwrecks, a historic lighthouse and stunning natural beauty. You can surf, fish, bushwalk or simply watch the abundance of marine life frolic in the big blue right in front of you. • Noosa is also home to many internationally acclaimed artists and there are several independent art spaces and galleries along with the Noosa Regional Art Gallery, the region’s most prominent public art gallery for local and touring artists. Works on paper, painting, photography, sculptures and glass are just some of the creative work that can be explored in the region. • Hell, if you are still thirsting for more may we suggest you celebrate your trip with a little memento, or perhaps a big one - a cracking new board from one of Noosa’s many talented shapers. • Markets, markets, markets – The famous Eumundi Markets Wed & Sat, Cooroy Community Markets Thurs, Pomona Country Markets 4th & 5th Saturday of the month, Noosa Farmers and Noosa Marina Markets Sun, Peregian Beach Markets 1st & 3rd Sundays
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: WHere TO sTAy
WHERE TO
We have featured below a few of our favourites catering for a range of budgets. Further to that we suggest your first point of call would be to go to visitnoosa.com.au Here you will find a range of accommodation options from beachhouses to luxury apartments, houseboats, backpacker style accommodation, campgrounds and pet-friendly options. visitnoosa.com.au has you covered regardless of whether you are keen to live it up in the lap of luxury, have a family getaway, a week with friends or weekend surf mission. Many local real estate agents have holiday rentals but from our own experience visiting the area
2 PARK CRESCENT, SUNSHINE BEACH, QLD 4567 150 METRES TO SURF BEACH, SHOPS AND SURF CLUB CALL (07)5474 6200
from near and far in years past we would suggest two stand out from the crowd. Around Little Cove to Main Beach and the Sound, Noosa Luxury Holidays is a boutique holiday rentals company run by the actual resort and property managers. Around the Sunshine Beach area, talk to Pip Covell and her super friendly team at Sunshine Beach Real Estate. Pip is a lovely lady and together with her team they really are experts on the area who can perfectly match what you are after with your budget so you enjoy a dream holiday. www. sunshinebeachrealestate.com.au
mAin beAcH & liTTle cOve
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NETANYA NOOSA 75 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads 07 5447 4722 www.netanyanoosa.com Looking right out at First Point and overlooking Laguna Bay. Dream set up.
OCEAN BREEZE RESORT 52 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads 07 5447 4977 www.oceanbreezeresort.com.au Smack bang in the middle of it all just behind Café Le Monde. There’s 1,2 and 3 bedroom fully self contained apartments. Great for families. Check out the old photo of Hastings St (page 59) - Ocean Breeze was there back then. HALSE LODGE GUEST HOUSE (MAIN PIC) Backpackers by the Beach 2 Halse Lane, Noosa Heads 07 5447 3377 www.halselodge.com.au Closest budget accommodation to the beach, National Park and main part of Town - and what a ripper it is. Unreal beer garden and casual restaurant to boot.
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HOTEL LAGUNA NOOSA 6 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads 07 5447 3077 www.hotellaguna.com.au Stayed here many a time for the Noosa Festival. Right in Hastings Street on the river down the Woods end. Comfortable, relaxed and well priced.
THE COVE NOOSA Cnr Park & Little Cove Rd, Noosa Head 07 5447 4111 www.thecovenoosa.com.au Right on our favourite beach with a fun point wave. And just check out the model... Jake Bowery, the master glasser and resin artist at Thomas Surfboards.
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PICTURE POINT TERRACES 47 Picture Point Cr, Noosa Heads 07 5449 2433 www.picturepointterraces.com.au If you want to take in the views and be a bit removed from the hustle and bustle near the beach, this is the go. Set amidst a tropical rainforest only 3 minutes walk to Hastings Street.
sunsHine beAcH PARKSHORES SUNSHINE BEACH 2 Park Crescent, Sunshine Beach 07 5474 6200 www.parkshores.com.au Comfortable, clean and affordable and only a couple of hundred meters to the beach, shops and Surf Club. 2 and 3 bedroom apartments each with their own bathroom. Perfect for families or for a group of mates.
FLASHPACKERS NOOSA 102 Pacific Avenue, Sunshine Beach 07 5455 4088 www.flashpackersnoosa.com Best budget accommodation on the Sunshine Beach side of town run by a family who all surf. Best of all – Tuesday night all you can eat pizza, Friday night free sausage sizzle Aussie BBQ, Free 24hr internet/ wifi, free breakfast daily, free surfboard hire, free bus pickup & drop off. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: WHere TO eAT
N0OSASUSHi!
Best! Freshest!
fOOD glOriOus fOOOOOD... THe unOfficiAl culinAry cApiTAl Of AusTrAliA AnD HOme TO THe nOOsA inTernATiOnAl fOOD AnD Wine fesTivAl, WHere THe greATesT cHefs frOm ArOunD THe cOunTry AnD inDeeD THe glObe cOme TO give us A ‘TAsTe’ Of jusT WHAT THey cAn DO.
SUSHI YAH-MAN 7 Sunshine Beach Rd Noosa Junction /noosasushi
Café Le Monde Award winning restaurants, great cafes and takeaways… at one stage Noosa had reportedly more food outlets per capita than anywhere else in the whole of Australia. There are so many great establishments to indulge your taste buds that you can’t go wrong. Here’s a pick of some of our favourites along with some comments from the locals. Facebook “f ” Logo
CMYK / .eps
STAY & PLAY IN THE HEART OF NOOSA!
HALSE LODGE ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANT AND BAR
BACKPACKERS BY THE BEACH 2 Halse Lane, Noosa Heads QLD Book Online, or Call 07 5447 3377
EMAIL US: BACKPACKERS@HALSELODGE.COM.AU 106
MASSIMOS 75 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads Possibly the best ice cream on earth. Possibly the most expensive icecream on earth as well. SUSHI YAH-MAN 7 Sunshine Beach Road, Noosa Junction Phenomenal sushi - I am a sushi connoisseur and I love Japanese!
Bistro C
MARBLE BAR 40 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach Very cool open-air bar/ café that served the BEST steak sandwich that I can remember in a long, long time. Great food, surf stuff on the big screen behind the bar (or cricket), niiice beers on tap including Monteith’s – a kiwi cracker.
i HAve AlWAys lOveD bisTrO c. i THink THey DO A fAnTAsTic menu THere fOr breAkfAsT, luncH AnD Dinner. THey HAve A greAT vArieTy Of cOckTAils AnD murrAy puTs sucH A big effOrT inTO cHAnging THe resTAurAnT All THe Time. yAH-mAn susHi in THe juncTiOn is AmAZing. reAsOnAble priceD susHi AnD fresHly mADe. THe villAge bicycle is A pOpulAr liTTle bAr As Well. Kat Hogg, Hive Swimwear
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Marble Bar
Clandestino
BELMONDOS 59 Rene Street, Noosaville Super fresh, tasty and wholesome is not that hard when done right. Belmondos show how. I’m a particularly a big fan of their Morning Glory… muffins that is. LOCALE 62 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads Beautiful modern Italian. Very different to anything else in Noosa. CLANDESTINO 59 Rene Street, Noosaville (Inside Belmondos and served at 15 quality focused cafes on the Sunshine Coast including Café Le Monde) Being an addict I can testify to a good cup of Joe and this stuff is the goods. RICKY’S RIVER BAR & RESTAURANT 2 Quamby Place, Noosa Sound Afternoon drinks and a meal to remember.
Belmondo's Morning Glory
cAfe le mOnDe HAs AlWAys been THe breAkfAsT meeTing plAce. Surf Author Peter Neely
CAFÉ LE MONDE 52 Hastings Street, Noosa Heads www.cafelemonde.com.au It forms part of a ritual. A must whilst in town, no more words need be said. NOOSA SURF CLUB (MAIN BEACH) AND SUNSHINE BEACH SURF CLUB Both on respective sides of town best for beers and views. WASABI RESTAURANT & BAR 2 Quamby Place, Noosa Sound Ridiculous Japanese ridiculously good but with a price equivalent to the deposit on your first house.
HAlse lODge AnD THe villAge bicycle WOulD be THe Only TWO plAces i WOulD gO fOr A Dinner AnD beer. HAlse lODge, besT beergArDen in qlD. beAn DrOp/ liTTle DrOpleT fOr cOffee fuels Our ADDicTiOn. Thomas Bexon, Thomas Surfboards
LOCAL FLAVOUR Anyone who has travelled to the area as a kid is bound to have had a Wimmers DoubleSars (sarsaparilla) or at least some soft drink from the Wimmers range. Unbelievably this local business has been going for over 105 years. In all sincerity, that is cause for major celebration. And it’s no wonder, there is a stark contrast between Wimmers and others - that aroma when you bust the cap. You’re licking your lips now, and with good reason. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NOOSA: geTTing Here
Here THe TWO besT WAys TO geT TO nOOsA Are TO fly Or Drive, AlTHOugH Driving is pOssibly THe WAy if yOu HAve A feW bOArDs in TOW.
FLY Jetstar and Virgin both fly in and out of Sunshine Coast airport from Sydney and Melbourne. Both are direct daily services. From the airport it is just a 25min drive. Con-x-ion and Sun Air operate hourly door-to-door shuttle services. Virgin/ Air New Zealand fly direct from Auckland to the Sunshine Coast Airport from near the end of June through to the end of October. All the major airlines fly into Brisbane from around Australia and New Zealand. From Brisbane you are faced with about 1 ½ to 2hr drive. Con-x-ion 108
operates hourly door-to-door shuttle services.
DRIVE As mentioned from Brisbane you are looking at around a 1 ½ to 2hr drive. From the Gold Coast you can add another hour. From Sydney you are looking at around 1,100 km and a solid days drive – about 13 hours less stops. From Melbourne, it’s about 20 hours drive plus stops and just under 2,000 km. If you’re attempting to drive from anywhere else, you are a loony – just fly! Couple of tips – If you are coming in off the Bruce Highway, take the Eumundi and Noosa Heads turnoff just past Yandina. Make sure to stop in at the cool little country town of Eumundi. If coming in via Maroochydore/ Sunshine Coast Airport, make sure to take the coastal route along David Low Way via Coolum. You can check out the surf and take in the sights.
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NOOSA: CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY
CAPTAINS OF INDUSTRY YeS, NOOSA IS FAMeD FOR The hAllOweD POINTS wheRe YOU CAN COMMUNe wITh The wAveS AND be AT ONe wITh NATURe... bUT ShORT OF bODYSURFINg, ThIS beCOMeS TRICkY IF YOU hAve NOThINg TO RIDe.
The backbone of Noosa’s surfing landscape surely has to the be the stalwart shapers and surf businesses that through the years have provided the surfcraft and gear needed to catch those magical, endless rides, and pushed the innovations in surfboard design inspired by the local conditions. over the next few pages, we look at some of the faces behind the places that bring you water-walking equpiment for Noosa, in Noosa.
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we hAve A SMAll CRew OF CRAFTSMeN ThAT ARe PART OF The FAMIlY; All hAve OveR 30 YeARS OF SURFbOARD MANUFACTURINg eXPeRIeNCe.
OF ST JOhNS NOOSA SURF wORkS
Noosa Surf Works began in the backyard of mike St John’s house in the early 70’s. Fresh off the back of finishing his board making apprenticeship with midget Farrelly, Australia’s first Surfing World champion, mike moved to Noosa and started handcrafting boards for his mates out of his Sunshine Beach house.
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The ShOTgUN ShOOTOUT words: TULLY sT JoHN
The ShOTgUN ShOOTOUT IS NOOSA’S OwN SURFINg SUPeR SeRIeS PReSeNTeD bY NOOSA bOARDRIDeRS ClUb AND COMMeNCINg FOR The FIRST TIMe IN 2015. 6 eveNTS wIll be helD ThROUghOUT NOOSA IN DIFFeReNT lOCATIONS. Shotgun Surfboards in conjunction with Noosa Boardriders Club will run a 6-event series during 2015 boasting a $10,000 prize pool, with each event being sponsored by local Noosa businesses. The calendar is as follows: FeBRUARy Golden Breed - First Point Pro. APRiL hang Loosa Property Noosa - Ross crescent. JUNe Underground Surf - Drain Pipe Pro AUGUST moshka’s - Sunshine Beach. ocToBeR Scooter Style - Northern end DecemBeR cafe Le monde Pro - Sunrise Beach. As can be seen, all events will be staged at Noosa hot spots but will also be mobile and taken to the best place in the Noosa shire on contest day. We see this as the new age for our local boardriders club and believe we will pioneer the format for other clubs to follow if they so wish. All the money from the sponsorship and entry fees will be going back into the pockets of the surfers with prize money spread all the way down the line. Numbers started to grow and with the birth of his son Tully in 1974 he decided to get himself a little shed out near Noosa airport to up the numbers and put food on the table for his family. This lasted a few years and then an opportunity for a bigger factory came up on Noosa-eumundi Road. This became quite a production unit. mike was able to use all his skills, handcrafting his own fins, painstakingly applying resin pinlines, cut lap glassing, performing beautiful polishes and all in all creating some real quality boards. The factory was sold and the family went traveling, enjoying the Australian countryside and surf. Late in the ‘90s, his son Tully took the reins under the watchful eye of his father. They opened the current Noosa Surf Works factory, which is known for creating high performance shortboards, longboards and stand up paddle boards along with local surfboard repairs.
we PUT The SAMe lOve AND ATTeNTION INTO eACh AND eveRY ONe OF OUR bOARDS AS we hAve DONe FOR OveR 45 YeARS CReATINg SUPReMe QUAlITY, FINelY-TUNeD eQUIPMeNT, All MADe heRe AT OUR hIgh TeCh FACTORY IN NOOSA.
We have created our own judging system, having one judge, a spotter and tally person on either side, like a surfing referee as voted by the surfers. We will incorporate a Legends of Noosa showdown with some of the local surfing godfathers dusting off their boards and going head to head for old times sake. There will be a local videographer and photographer on board to give insight of each event and showcase some of the top local surfers. each event will have its own presentation straight after and will be a great way to celebrate and come together as a community. everyone is welcome to join the events and presentations. We have a whole swagger of hot local talent who will be competing in this open shortboard contest with the likes of Dean Brady, Ryan campbell and harry Bryant making up some of the top 32. All competitors must be a member of the Noosa Board Riders Association, contact us for details: (07) 5474 4567. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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PETER
Modern surfing has come a long way in its hundred-odd years. Adding a fin, then two, three, four and five, developing from timber to foam and back again, bisecting board lengths and diversifying up, down and sideways have all been part of the evolutionary progression of the surfboard.
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Classic Malibu words: Tommy Leitch
The only thing that has remained the same is change; that constant thirst for better, faster, stronger, different that has driven a ceaseless metamorphosis of the boards we ride. Until now. We have come to a very unique time in surfing’s history. We have explored the nooks and crannies, we have tweaked all the dimensions, we have even developed computers to tell us what’s best, and now we can reflect. The so-called retro movement showed us two things: firstly, that some of those past designs actually worked really well, but secondly that some of them were left behind for a very good reason. We now have hindsight on our side. We know that a thruster will turn tighter than a single fin, we know that a hard rail will hold better in a steep face, we know that concaves lift while hulls plane, and we can now pick and choose from this catalogue of enquiry by our surfing, shaping forebears to create the ultimate surfboard. But here’s the rub: there isn’t one. We are all different. We are different weights, shapes, ages and abilities. We ride different waves, we like different things. There are no two surfers, there are even no two surfs, that are exactly the same. And because of this, there will never be one board that is perfect for every wave, every day, in every location, for any one surfer, let alone all of us. We now have the tools to be able to get the most out of our aquatic experiences – we just need our mindset to catch up. Some may love a heavy, 9’6” log, but they are only cheating themselves of a good
session if they paddle one out into a hollow beach break. Some swear by a thruster. After all, if Gabriel Medina can do what he does on one, then it must be the best board. But guess what? You’re not Gabriel Medina and you’re just going to sink on a full-tide, one-foot point wave. “It’s horses for courses,” says Classic Malibu’s Peter White. “It’s not about the newest or the best or fashion or what your mates ride. It’s about what’s best for you.” Peter has seen it all. He learned to surf on longboards but began his shaping career in Victoria when the shortboard revolution was really building momentum. Moving north to Noosa Heads in the mid-1980s, a time when any self-respecting surfer wouldn’t be seen dead on anything longer than a 6’8” (unless paddling into Waimea), Peter saw the value of longboards in the mellow, rolling waves. Already, he was seeing the merit in specific boards for specific purposes, regardless of size, shape or dagginess. “I was a shortboard shaper, that’s what I did, that’s what everyone did,” Peter recalls. “But when I saw people having so much fun on heavy, old, waterlogged longboards while others were floundering on thrusters, I realised that nine-foot boards still had a very valid place in the market.” Ironically, one of Peter’s first customers in his new role as ‘longboard shaper’ was ASP World Tour pro shortboarder and Noosa local, Julian Wilson.
stand side by side. Wide-tailed fishes and keel-finned Simmons are equally at home as high performance longboards with critical concaves and channels. Exemplifying today’s marketplace, Peter’s personally handshaped stable leaves no stone unturned in the chronology of surfing’s history, including timber alaias, classic guns and ‘80s stingers. “Everything has a place in surfing today,” Peter reflects. “It’s not just a case of replicating what went before though. What we need to do is look at those older shapes, take what worked, discard what didn’t and then apply the knowledge we have today to make them better.” This philosophy is being reflected en masse, in and out of the shaping bay. Stalwart shortboarders are beginning to see the benefits of added length and volume, hard core shredders are grabbing surf mats or handplanes, reveling in the simple thrills of sliding prone. Everyone is diversifying as minds are opened and more and more people are beginning to accept that surfing is surfing, whatever you’re riding. “People have been so stuck on one style of surfing for so long,” says Peter. “A shortboarder would never longboard, a longboarder would never bodyboard and so on. But now, people are really beginning to accept everything, both for themselves and in the lineup.”
Browsing the racks of some 200 boards gracing the walls of Peter’s Classic Malibu showroom, it’s clear to see that this early, all-encompassing mindset has done nothing if not expanded.
We have reached a time of abundance. We don’t all have to flock to the one local point break because it’s a perfect mal wave. Instead, we can find a wave away from the crowds and select a craft accordingly, be that long or short, one fin or four or even our own naked, hairy belly.
Boards ranging from sub-five-foot epoxy shortboards with carbon fibre rails to classic single-fin logs with red cedar stringers and volan glassing
There is no ‘right’ way to surf, there is only right for you. As Hassan-i Sabbah put it: “Nothing is true, everything is permitted.”
Everything has a place in surfing today. SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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we hAve JUST CONTINUeD TO ReFReSh OUR APPROACh. keeP TRYINg DIFFeReNT ThINgS. TRYINg TO keeP IT DIFFeReNT COMeS DOwN TO TRYINg TO keeP OURSelveS STIMUlATeD MORe ThAN ANYThINg ThOUgh.
Thomas. Photo: Ben Osborne, courtesy of Thomas Surfboards 116
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THOMAS
It had been four years since I had caught up with Doc (Thomas Bexon) for a proper chat - the last time being when he was working in a café and shaping part-time. Since then he has teamed up with master glasser Jake Bowery and together they have achieved a great deal of success, developing a massive following. But it hasn’t come without a hell of a lot of hard work on both their parts. Despite their success, it’s great how humble the two of them have remained.
probably more so for ourselves. And the fact some of our mates are a few of the best longboarders in the world certainly helps with our progression.” T: “Getting really good feedback from really good surfers helps. And with our longboards, having the best place to test them here in Noosa is a bonus. Likewise the shorties are for
JAKE
media and travelling here and there but they possibly don’t realise the effort we put in.“
bit of spending money. Ever since that it has just boomed. It’s been a great relationship.”
T: “The saying is true, ‘It is not what you know, but who you know’ but you still have to back it up with your work. We have been invited to make boards in a lot of places around the world, but if we just bludged when we got
J: “I know people at times think we are constantly on holidays. When we head overseas we work an even longer day then we do at home.”
Jake & Malakai
THE FACTORY
As I mentioned, Doc was shaping part-time out of the Hayden factory in Kunda Park (back of Maroochydore) before he and Jake started their venture on Eumundi-Noosa Road. They began around Easter 2011. Their initial factory was the size of a shoebox with barely enough room for the two of them let alone a board or two. They are still on the same block now but in a bigger shed now and have a cool shopfront as well that doubles as Captain Sip Sop’s Barber Shop. Aside from the latest Thomas sleds there are also surfboards by Neal Purchase Jnr and old school boards now shaped under license for Hayden.
J: “Only because we have so much to do and we want to get it done. T: “You could go for 6 weeks and take your time, or go there for 3 and put in the hours. We both have wives and kids at home so it’s only fair we get back to them.”
guys heading over to Indo along with ourselves, so we get to test them out in some decent waves.
SUCCESS
“On the success side of things people possibly think because you have a decent social media following you are making lots of money, but to be honest, I made more money when I was working at the café and making boards part time. That said, we both love what we do and that’s why we do it.
T: “We have just continued to refresh our approach. Keep trying different things. Trying to keep it different comes down to trying to keep ourselves stimulated more than anything though.”
“We have definitely been fortunate to work with some tech-savvy guys along the way who have assisted to promote what we do. And again, there have been some really talented photographers and videographers who just want to work with us. We’ve been in the epicentre of all these creative people who just want to get their stuff out there.
Others may make similar styles of boards but very few have enjoyed the same success as Doc and Jake. I asked them how they have seemingly remained one step ahead of the game.
J: “People copy you and so you change it. We try to keep it interesting and fresh for people but as Thomas said,
T: “We went to France for month and for 3½ weeks straight we were working 12-14 hours a day, manual labour. People would be asking us, “You in France eating cheese?” We got the keys to the factory, would be in there at 7am before anyone arrived and be there until 9pm, well after everyone had left.”
J: “People may see us on social
there and made a sh*t product, we wouldn’t be invited back. The fact that everyone asks us to come back as soon as we can is because of our workmanship and our work ethic.”
TRAVEL
Doc and Jake are now regular visitors to Bali, Japan and France with the occasional trip to California thrown in. I asked them about life on the road and how it all began. T: “It started when I was invited to Bali about 4 years ago as a team rider for The Critical Slide Society to take part in an event staged by Deus (ex Machina). The boys from Critical were co-sponsors of the event and asked if I wanted to also shape a couple of boards whilst I was over there. They said they could hook me up with the guys at Deus and it could help pay for my ticket and give me a
“It’s our ‘fly-in, fly-out work’ but we’re lucky not to be going to the desert we’re off to nice places. That said, on a recent trip to Bali I was there for a week and didn’t see the beach. It was kind of weird heading there with no board, just a bag of tools.” To juggle the demands of their growing customer base the boys now tag-team their time around the globe with Doc going off to shape a whole heap of boards before returning home, then Jake heads over to do his thing. By the time Jake is home, Doc has another 10-15 boards lined up, ready to be glassed. Overseas orders now account for about 20% of their total board orders and that number is growing rapidly. The boys have certainly been busy but without doubt have put in the hard yards to make it all happen. “We are constantly striving to improve the boards we make, refining the shapes, evolving them, tweaking them.” SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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THIs PHoTo: Paul’s son Jackson is the perfect test pilot for his designs. When your son is a former Hyundi Pro Longboard Tour junior champion and has been a finalist in various high profile shortboard, longboard and finless events, you can bet he can give you some pretty good feedback on how the boards handle and the nuances of their design.
SURFbOARDS
PAUl wINTeR
MOST wOUlD be FAMIlIAR wITh OUR ADMIRATION FOR FUYU SURFbOARDS. PAUl wINTeR’S bOARDS CeRTAINlY lOOk The gOODS AND The FINISh IS SOMeThINg TO behOlD. IT IS NO wONDeR he hAS DevelOPeD QUITe A FOllOwINg SINCe lAUNChINg FUYU IN MAY 2013. RATheR ThAN TAke OUR wORD FOR IT ThOUgh, we ThOUghT we wOUlD TAlk TO A COUPle OF geNTleMAN whO hAve beCOMe AvID FANS OF PAUl’S wORk - keITh CROCkeR AND keITh INCe FROM The NOOSA MAlIbU ClUb. liked it. it suited me right down to the ground. So i got one of those, a 9’6” and i got a 9’8” one as well. All the boards have been good. They work for me.
KEITH CROCKER “i have bought three boards through Paul so far, all of them logs but i am planning on getting an hP through him next. i came to know Paul, Libby, Jackson and indeed all the family down at the beach and around the club. “i started talking to him about boards and realised he really knew what he was talking about, which is no wonder as the whole family surfs and do so very well, mind you, from logs through to retros, SUPs and shorties. Jackson in particular will ride anything. if it is tied to his leg he will surf it. “Anyhow, the Noosa Malibu Club have a number of test boards and Paul had one of his there. i tried his Jackson model (The Jax) and really 118
“Paul’s old style approach really suits me as well. The boards are all hand crafted, you can go into the shaping bay and chat with him about your board and come back and look at the progress. i really appreciate that one-on-one interaction and personal service. “i ride old mals so i tend to like my boards really flat. i get Paul to flatten it out a little more and tweak the rails to just thin them down a little bit extra with not too much concave in the nose. Right towards the end with the last board, Paul allowed me to just adjust a couple of things. i really liked the chance to be involved and to be able to fine tune things to ensure you get what you really want. “i have been more than happy with all the boards i have got so far. i will be sowing the seeds in Paul’s mind for what i am after next and i am sure he will come up with something special.”
KEITH INCE
“i have two of Paul’s boards, a log and a few months ago i got more of a performance board through him. i was on the committee of Noosa Malibu Club with Paul so when he started making single fin logs, which i quite liked the look of, i wanted to be supportive of him. Logs are very useful in Noosa with the types of waves we have. “i got Paul to make me a 9’6” single fin log and i really liked it. one of things i particularly like about Paul’s boards is that he doesn’t use a shaping machine. it is all done by eye and he has a really good eye for shaping actually. his attention to detail i think is just fantastic. “With this particular log as well, the glassing job and finish on the board and depth of colours is outstanding.
The person on the Gold coast who does his glassing is doing an impeccable job.” “With respect to the performance (long) board i got through Paul, i met with him in his shaping bay to talk in detail about what i wanted. What i find with performance boards at times is they have too much rocker and so they are hard to paddle and get on the wave. “We talked about the rocker, how fine the rails would be, a bit of concave in the nose and double concave in the tail, and that i wanted the board to be still quite light. The moment i picked it up, i thought it was just fantastic. he interpreted everything i wanted and put it into that board. i ride it with a Dane Pioli thruster set-up in the tail and it is quick, really manouverable and paddles well. i absolutely love it. “his background as a builder has really helped his eye for detail. i believe he has just made his 100th board recently and it is a great credit to him. he is a boutique builder, but this is what enables him to give you his entire focus and interpret what you are looking for and i think that is really important.”
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beRNIe FIleR
SURFbOARD ShAPeS
weTSUITS
STeveO hAlPIN one guy who you’ve seen a lot of over the last few editions - because of the amazing wooden surfboards and skateboards he handcrafts - is Steve halpin of Wooden Surfboards - Shapes by Steveo. he too is a Noosa local having moved here some 20+ years ago. Recently he relocated his workshop to Pomona, a beautiful little country town at the base of mount cooroora, just under 30kms from Noosa heads and around 20 minutes drive. it is fitting really considering Steve’s passion for wooden surfboards and Pomona’s proud wood working heritage and the fact that the town is the historic heart of the Noosa Biosphere. if you are unfamiliar with this neck of the woods it is definitely worth checking out, particularly if you are in the market for a very unique piece of recycled or sustainable wooden craft to slide, glide or cruise on. woodensurfboardsshapesbysteveo@gmail.com.au
Zee Wetsuits are another proud local company celebrating 20 years here in Noosa this year, and indeed 40 years since their inception. Founded by Bernie Filer, a long time surf industry stalwart, Zee was originally based out of Torquay. We chatted to Bernie recently about what prompted the move north. “i had been coming here since the ‘70s doing business up here with Rip Curl and then my own business in the mid ‘80s. There were no other wetsuit manufacturers north of Brisbane back then, indeed the closest wetsuit manufacturer was Aleeda on the Gold coast. “Down in Torquay we had a terrific little shop that was doing incredibly well, even though we were primarily wholesalers not retailers, but we were right across the road from the mafia. it was a bit of a pressure cooker and as such i didn’t want to play anymore. We thought it would be a nice lifestyle change to move to Noosa. i mean who wouldn’t want to live in Noosa if they got a chance. We didn’t think our customers would mind if we shipped out of Torquay or up here.” Zee’s original premises were in eumundi Road were they were also making everything from boardshorts and tshirts through to bodyboards for Piping Hot at the height of their fame. After 2000 they scaled back their operation to solely focus on their range of Zee Wetsuits for surfers and their other label they had produced since the beginning for waterskiers and wakeboarders called Moomba. Bernie puts his continued good fortune down to following a “success formula”. “Generally speaking, if you have a good business, you stick to what made you successful in the first place. our strength has always been that people can come in here, get a custom fit wetsuit and if they need any repairs or alterations we are here on hand to get it sorted straight away. many of our customers can’t kill their wetsuit so we just keep patching them and making any repairs they need. “A lot of our customers have come in here as grommets and now they are continuing to buy suits for themselves as well as with their kids. i put that down to good service, great suits and
our guaranteed buy back for kids has also been incredibly popular. children grow so fast it is understandable the buying motivation for parents is that they want to get a couple of years out of a wettie and as such, will buy one that is too big. The problem is a wetsuit needs to fit to work. We convince our customers to buy the correct size and to come back and trade it in for their next suit when their child grows out of it.” Part of running a successful business is also about being innovative and the latest range Bernie has been working on has him just as excited about the future as the loyal following Zee have engendered. “The latest neoprene technology coming predominantly out of Taiwan and Japan is something else. The suits will improve out of sight and the progression is ReAL. A lot of what has been said by the big boys over the last few years under the name of ‘innovation’ has just been marketing technocrap. What our customers are about to see in our range coming out in February is a neoprene with unbelievable stretch. The number of custom made wetsuits we will need to make will diminish because the stretch in the rubber overcomes most abnormalities – one size fits all is what it is basically getting to. “What’s also exciting is our extended range of ladies wetsuits under the sub heading of Hot Candy. The suits will continue to fly the Zee flag but this range will be exclusive to ladies featuring shorts and tops and zipperless crossover back swim suits, as well as a full range of traditional surfing styles. “The final development for this coming season’s range is our new technology Mega Stretch Thermo. This will replace where we have always used meshskin on the chest and back. one of the advantages of the Mega Stretch Thermo is that it doesn’t hold water and the other is it has a jersey lining so it is going to last longer. it stretches better than the mesh and its more durable. Thermal properties in the weave also recycle your body heat. our suits will be softer, warmer and thinner. Best of all, all of our suits will continue to have a lifetime repair warranty.” SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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MARSAUS IN TeRMS OF AN All ROUND SURF ShOP IN NOOSA, UNDeRgROUND IS A TRUe TReASURe CheST. IT’S The ReAl DeAl AND ANY SURFeR wORTh TheIR SAlT kNOwS IT. IT’S NO glORIFIeD SURF-ClOThINg STORe AND IS DRIveN bY The MAN wITh NeAR-eNCYClOPeDIC SURF hISTORY kNOwleDge, ONDI MARSAUS.
UNDeRgROUND SURF words: DAVe SWAN
‘ondi’ - or André marsaus as he is known on his driver’s licence - has a real passion for quality surf craft. in the store he runs with partner and better half, maree o’connor, you’ll find over 200 boards – real quality craft, not pop-outs. you will find a select range of handshaped originals by the likes of Bob mcTavish, Jack and Aaron Knight of harvest Surfboards, Bill Tolhurst, Paul Winter’s Fuyu Surfboards, Ralph Riddell, Ross Wilson, Jason oliver’s recycled wooden pallet surfboards and creations by Glenncat collins. There’s also Underground’s range of handshaped, locally made shortboards through to longboards, noseriders, fish, mini Simmons and bonzers. Underground’s lead shapers are none other than Terry Glass, Tony Dempsey and mark Jameson. “These guys are master craftsman and we have some fantastic guys riding our boards. our new Misfit performance models are insane. We can’t keep up with orders. We recently got some unreal shots from G-Land. The boys such as our soul surfer carrick mieke are just flaring, really lighting up. massive airs, deep pits. on our noseriders and longboards we have the likes of Scott Ford, who is the reigning over50s champion in Noosa and was in the top 4 at the Australian titles and has won too many trophies this past year to list. Both boys are great ambassadors.”
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Aside from the range of boards in store, ondi also takes custom board orders. There is also a select range of vintage surfboards. indeed his knowledge of surf history and surfboards is unfathomable and is no doubt due to his large personal collection. ondi would possibly possess one of Australia’s largest collections of vintage surfboards. (Doubt it? Check out the photo (right) we did with him some years back with just a minute part of his collection (hell, we could have taken all weekend to lay out the boards he simply had under the house at the time). This more or less explains how he knows so much about surfboard design and surf history. Name a particular shaper and their innovative approach to surfboard design and he probably owns it. “our range caters from beginner through to pro through to surfboard enthusiast. We have a huge selection of fins and can offer expert advice as to what fins suit what board in what waves for what kind of surfer. We have softboards for kids from the age 2 up, wetsuits for women and men, hardware for every sort of board sport. Solid brands, well tested. Board covers, skateboards, a bit of hawaiiana, vintage memorabilia and boards, DVDs including hard-to-get originals. Plus we have an on-the-spot ding repair service. That’s what we do. Underground is where the locals come to shop. And we have plenty of parking.” it’s no wonder every imaginable surfer from the likes of Albe Falzon, when he is in town, through to local legends and visiting backpackers drop in to Underground.
ABoVE: ondi, Albe and Jake
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GEAR SU R F B O ARD S
Kirra Innes from Angourie/Yamba is the latest female addition to the Black Apache Surfboards familia. “A really good logger, she rides the Los Growler II,” says Chief Apache Jesse Watson. Photo: Will Smith aka @shuttapunk on instagram
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10’ x 23 ½” x 3 ¼”
LOS GROWLER II by Jesse Watson
“Our Australian 1 flavour of the classic and proven Californian-style template. Once you get it dialled it’s one of our most user-friendly longboards, combining all the features to get you on the nose and keep you there. “50/50 rails, rolled flat bottom and a slight concave up front create lift, while the flipped tail and rudder-style fin create a nice counterweight when you’re perched on the grill. Available with a scooped tail for the serious logger. From 9’2 - 10’6, true glide at 10’0. The smoothest operator in our stable and our best all rounder. BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS @blackapache Look us up...
Ph: 0410 419 791
blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au blackapachesurfboards.com.au SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
6’11” x 19 ¾ x 2 7/8”
SINGLE FIN
CUSTOM FROM 6’10” UP
6’7’’x 20 ¼’’x 13 ½’’x 13 ¾’’x 2 3/8”
MACHIAVELLIAN
by Robbie Marshall
by the Knight Family
EARLY ‘90s-STYLE SHORTBOARD
“I love single fins of 1 all shapes and sizes, and I shape whatever you can imagine - not just one model. This one was shaped for everyday waves over shoulder height.
“Something we’ve 1 popped out that I’m ridiculously attracted to. Let the Machiavellian manipulate and control you. You’ll enjoy it. This one is 8’2. Slight roll with a vee bottom (not overdone), bladey 50/50 rails through the middle softening down a little towards the tail. A plan shape with a long drawn out hip and a slight vee bottom really makes it want to turn between your feet. Great for the points this summer. Basically a really fun mid-length...”
“It has a beautiful 1”recycled cedar stringer, laminated by Dave of Treehouse Shapes with his unique methods, handfoiled 8.5” fin. Thinned out in the nose and tail, and with a modern rail and nice curve in the nose, this board can be surfed hard and fast without catching a rail - a real pleasurecraft and eye catcher.”
by Jordie Brown
5 “Based on ‘90s-style thrusters with low rocker and plenty of volume and with a light 6 oz/4 oz trimmed lap glass-job, resin pigment, a full gloss coat and wet rubed finish, this board also features artwork by Tiphaine de Flurette. Can be ridden as a quad fin thruster, 2+1 and single fin.
xji=xjINS+Rj • rand(0,1)
WHAT’S THE BUZZ? By Glenn Cat Collins
For a very special lady. 3 Can you guess who? Look out for its unveiling in our next edition.
“This is one of the most exciting sticks in my quiver when the waves are on!”
www.surf1770noosa.com E: surf1770@bigpond.com SOUL ARCH SURFBOARDS Ph: 0404 348 131 E: dobba_21@hotmail.com Soularch Surfboards robbie_marshall21 124
HARVEST SURFBOARDS Christine Avenue, Miami, QLD P: 07 5576 5914 E: aaron@harvestsurfboards.com www.harvestsurfboards.com
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, VIC 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392 E: hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com www.hightidesurfboards.com
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS 5’8”x 19 ¾” x 2 3/8”= 28.8L
5’11”x 19 ¾” x 2 7/16”= 30.3L
CHOP TAIL
SCREWDRIVER
by Leighton Clark
by Leighton Clark
Features a single to 5 double concave with a slight vee in the tail. With a Futures 5-fin setup, this Chop Tail is built for speed and boosting off those summer ramps.
The Screwdriver 5 features a round pin resin dip tail and sports a Futures 5-fin setup for extra flexibility and choice. This is an all-round traveller and a trusty, hardworking addition to any quiver.
From 5’ to 6’8”
5’5”x 19” x 2 3/8”
THE BUNKER
THE XU-1
by Ron Goddard
by Chris Garrett
“The all-round 4 stubbie for serious fun. Wide round nose with narrow pintail makes it fit into short hollow waves really well.
“Wider keel boards 2 feel fantastic for the paddle power, wave catching and speed, yet can feel a bit clunky rail to rail. Narrowing and straightening the rails midships gets back the quick transition and increases the drive and projection.
“The quad fin format gives it plenty of drive, the bowl in the nose renders it catch-free and the full concave gets it up and running. The chine rail stops the concave from sucking onto the face and enables it to come up on its rail for low driving bottom turns.
“Fast, highly manoeuvrable and a paddle machine, it’s hard to get off this one for the sheer fun and excitement in all kinds of wave conditions.”
“Ride it short.”
CLARK SURFBOARDS@ THE DING KING
The Ding King is a collaborative of South Australian surfboard shapers, glassers, artists and sanders. As well as pumping out ding repairs, we also produce brand new surfcraft and run shaping workshops.
Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road, Hackham SA 5163 E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au M: 0422 443 789 facebook.com/thedingkingAUS
GODDARD SURFBOARDS 108 Mardells Rd, Bucca NSW Ph: 0266 537 961 M: 0437 425 405
E: ron@goddardsurfboards.com.au www.goddardsurfboards.com.au
PHANTOM SURFBOARDS Ph: 0424 450 690 phantomsurfboards@gmail.com chrisgarrettshapes.com.au
Boards available at: SUNHOUSE, Coolangatta THE BOARDROOM, Miami BRUNSWICK SURF, Brunswick Heads SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
5’8” x 18 ¼” x 2 ¼” = 23.6L
STITCH UP
6’1” x 19 ½” x 2 9/16” = 32.1L
6’4” x 23” x 3” = 50L
by Wayne McKewen
by Wayne McKewen
by Wayne McKewen
HP MAGNUM
AARDVARK
3 Based on high performance shortboards made for some of our team riders. Size range 5’8” to 6’0”, Single double concave. Low to medium rails and hip squash tail. Medium to high rocker.
5 A couple of size additions and new Carbon bottoms for the Mini Bullet range. Size range from 5’7” to 6’3”, Vee bottom, medium rails and low to medium rocker.
3 A high volume board for medium to overhead waves. Size range 6’6” to 6’10”, Bonza concave, medium bevelled rails and flat deck, swallow tail and low to medium rocker.
5 This is an addition to the existing Aardvark range and is for heavier surfers over 90kg. Size range from 6’0” to 6’6”, Quad concave and flattened rocker.
CONSTRUCTION
Burford PU blank 4x4 deck 4 bottom, FCSII Tri-fin.
SHAPER’S COMMENT A high performance board, best suited to guys between 55 and 75 kg.
MINI BULLET
6’6” x 20 ¾” x 2 ¾” = 42L
CONSTRUCTION
Great option for an all rounder and one of our best selling models.
CONSTRUCTION
Burford PU blank, 6 x 4oz deck, 4 bottom, FCSII 5-fin.
Burford Stringerless PU Blank, 4x4 deck 4 bottom, FCSII 5-fin.
SHAPER’S COMMENT
by Wayne McKewen
SHAPER’S COMMENT CONSTRUCTION
Burford PU blank, 6 x 4oz deck, 4 bottom, FCSII tri-fin
SHAPER’S COMMENT
A good all round option for heavier guys looking for a maneuverable board without sacrificing speed and paddle power.
A great option for heavier surfers who want to retain maneuverability in small to medium waves without going to longer hybrids or mini mals.
Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au 126
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
SUP
8’8” x 30” x 4 5/16”=119 Litres
9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”
8’0” x 22 ½” x 3 1/8”
5’10” x 21” x 2 ¾”
CUSTOM SUP
LONGBOARD
BIG FISH
FLYER SINGLE
“The LSX 8’8” this 1 season has had a makeover. The outline of the nose and tail have been narrowed, also a bit more tail rocker and deeper double concave through the fins.
1 “All my longboards are a subtle blend of curves and concaves with no hard edges so the board effortlessly glides and flows with the wave. “The rounded tail shortens the rail line making this board feel 2” shorter than it actually is. This, combined with a little tail lift, makes the board easy to turn. “All my boards are made right here in Ulladulla. This one comes as a single fin, or box with two sides. “Let me custom tailor it to the way you want to surf and the feel you are after.”
This one glides along 3 when surfed forward with the flat bottom and super soft rails. The scooped vee and hard edges running through the tail keeps it lively when surfed off the back foot. Also works great as quad.
A modern single fin 1 outline with art by Cait Miers and Kalula.
by Andy Jordan
“I have also lowered the tail rail slightly. This board has more bite and speed in the turns and punches through the white water with ease. The recessed handle is now deeper making it easier to carry. “A great choice for riding waves this summer. This board now comes in a full carbon model.”
TAURANGA, NZ (In NZ 0800 787 464) P: +64 (07) 5701953 M: +64 (027) 2433011 W: www.liquidstixx.co.nz
by Mark Rabbidge
RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 M: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW markrabbidge.com Email: sales@markrabbidge.com
by Rory Oke
CONSTRUCTION
Handshaped Ocean Foam PU blank, 6 oz cloth cloth polished finish. Speedfins Fibreglass s123 thrusters SHAPER’S COMMENT
The volume of a 9-footer jammed into a board a foot shorter.
by Rory Oke
CONSTRUCTION
Handshaped Ocean Foam PU blank, 6 oz cloth polished/ wetrub finish, and 7” single fin. SHAPER’S COMMENT
Made for Cait’s recent solo exhibition ‘Washed Elegance.’ For more on Cait Miers, see the feature interview in Smorgasboarder #24, and visit www.caitmiers.com.
OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 www.okesurfboards.com SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
5’2” x 17” x 2 1/8” = 19.0L
COSMIC DRIFT • • • •
Small wave Fish board Low nose and tail rocker Slight single concave to vee’d tail Medium / High boxy rail
SABER NAPALM 6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 3/8” = 29.2L
5’4’ x 19 ½” x 2 ¼” = 27.5L 5’10” x 18 5/8” x 2 ¼” = 25.7L
SNIPER • • • •
Shortboard Medium nose and tail rocker Deep single concave Medium / Low boxy rail
• • • •
Step-Up board Medium nose and tail rocker Slight single concave to double concave Medium boxy rail
• • • •
Grom Shortboard Medium nose and tail rocker Slight single to double concave Medium / Low boxy rail
ARDS are proudly WEBSTER SURFBO yne Webster Wa by a llin Ba made in 049 205 NSW 2478 M: 0416 1/13 Clark St, Ballina bstersurfboards.com.au we o@ inf E: .au s.com W: webstersurfboard 128
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS 5’3” x 17 ½” x 2”
5’2” x 19 ½” x 2 ½”
6’8’’ x 21 ¾ x 2 7/8”
THE ELLIOT
THE ZAPPA
KICKBACK
This is a grom’s 3 dream competition board. The single concave and squash tail makes it quick along the wave and loose. Made for 2-5ft waves, it’s the best all-rounder out there.
A modern retro 5 fish/shortboard combination. Built with a flat rocker and a pronounced double concave for speed and acceleration, good tail lift for release. Ideal for small waves.
Designed for local CUSTOM conditions. A fuller railed, high volume board for easy paddling and wave catching with good performance. Flat bottom with a single to double concave.
Made custom for Elliot- can’t wait to see you on the WCT mate!
CONSTRUCTION
by Graham Carse
by Sergio Gomez
Handshaped PU blank, polyester resin, with fabric inlay and 5-fin Futures setup.
SHAPER’S COMMENT
“Speed of a retro fish, but turns like your shortboard.”
by Mark Benson
*
CONSTRUCTION Burford PU foam, FCS Fin system, 4 x 6 x 4oz glassing with carbon stomp patch. Custom spray by Tom (Tommygun) Hughes. Available in a variety of tail shapes, glassing and fin options. SHAPER’S COMMENT Custom shape for Marcus with the main emphasis to allow for easy surfing and fun. 100% Australian made.
GOMEZ SURFBOARDS
QUARRY BEACH SURFBOARDS 75 David St, Caversham, Dunedin NZ
Ph: +64 3 455 7414 M: +64 27 518 8678 www.qbsurfboards.com
M: +61 497 385 388 E: sergio@sgdboardsdesign.com GomezSurfAustralia gomezsurfboards www.gomezsurfboards.com
MR DAMAGE SURFBOARDS
M: 0416 199 764 E: mark@mrdamagesurfboards.com.au Mr. Damage Surfboards
6’0” x 19 ½” x 2 ½”
MOON RAKER V2FLEX Custom handshape by Mitchell Rae
4
Liquid lightning! Incredibly fast, easy wave entry, small wave glide and run. Low rocker with a fully turbo’d up concave bottom. Fitted with 4 SwitchBladeFins this design holds traction and drive into solid double overhead waves, giving it a very broad wave range. The V2Flex delivers a variable curve, tighter arc, response and reflex / pop out of the turns... In short, they are alive to ride. Get some excitement back into your surfing in anything from slop to barrels. OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW Ph: 02 6655 7007 info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com outerisland.blogspot.com SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Entropy Bio Resin Super Sap CLR
TRIED & TRUSTED
blanKS and run Family owerned55 years for ov
oUR ConSISTEnCy IS THE bEST In THE woRlD blanKS: A multitude of different lengths, rockers and weights •
A low viscosity, low colour and UV stable clear liquid epoxy resin system
•
Performance grade eco resin
•
Reduced environmental impact
•
Safe and pleasant to use – low odour, low VOC’s
STRInGERS: An extensive
variety of timbers of varying widths
SHaPInG ToolS: All you need to make a board from scratch
5 STEwaRT RoaD, CURRUmbIn QlD Call US on (07) 5534 3777
Available in Australia from
finplugcover.com™ neatly covers over unused fin plugs on surfboards and water craft.
find out more online info@surfinggreen.com.au 0412 042 811
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facebook.com/finplugcover finplugcover.com
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SURFBOARD
DINGS
BUSTED YOUR BOARD? GET IT FIXED HERE... BUDGEWOI
BUCKO’S torations SURFBOARD REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS
Repairs & Res
New Zealand RAGLAN, NZ
RAGLAN LONGBOARDS 7 days, 10am to 5pm except winter - catch us if you can +64 7 825 0544
KAIKOURA, NZ
SURGE SURFBOARDS Bust your board? Call us 24/7 027 428 7453
Queensland AGNES WATER/1770
REEF 2 BEACH Mon-Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm 07 4974 9072
PEREGIAN BEACH
PEREGIAN BEACH SURF SHOP
Mon - Fri 9am - 5.30pm, Sat 9am - 4pm 07 5471 3489
KAWANA
NICHOLSON SURFBOARDS REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS
SOUTHPORT
KOMA
Mon-Fri 9am -5pm, Sat 9am -12pm 0402 863 763
MIAMI
DINO’S DING REPAIRS Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 12pm 0409 727 735
THE DING SHOP Mon - Fri 8.30am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 1pm 0404 804 498
BURLEIGH HEADS
MT WOODGEE
1730 Gold Coast Highway (07) 5535 0288 Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm Sat 8:30am - 5pm
CURRUMBIN
MT WOODGEE 2 Stewart Rd (07) 5598 2188 Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm Sat 10am - 4pm
MAXIMUM SURFBOARDS 46 Currumbin Creek Rd Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm Sat 10am - 3pm Sun by appointment 0400 338 098
Mon - Fri 7-3pm, Sat 7-midday 0438 631 153 facebook.com/nicholsonsurf
New South Wales
MOFFAT BEACH
PLANK SHOP
THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS
Monday-Friday 9am-5pm, Saturday 8am-12pm (07) 5492 5838
LABRADOR
GC SURFCRAFT REPAIRS Mon-Fri 9am - 5.30pm Weekends by Appointment 0401 016 088
YAMBA 02 6645 8362
TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS
Mon-Fri 10am - 5.30pm Weekends by appointment 0422 304 078
CRONULLA
RILEY BALSA SURFBOARDS
7 days, 9-5pm 03 5952 2578
South Australia MID COAST
THE DING KING Clark Surfboards Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm 0422 443 789
WOLLONGONG
LONSDALE
SKIPP SURFBOARDS
MID COAST SURF
Mon-Fri 9am - 5:30pm Thurs 9am - 7:30pm Sat 9am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 4pm 02 4228 8878
SHELLHARBOUR
BROWN DOGG
Call us for a quality repair 08 8384 5522
SOUTH COAST
MR DAMAGE SURFBOARDS Call Mark 0416 199 764 mark@mrdamagesurfboards. com.au
7 days a week - Just call 0416 455 985
JERVIS BAY
INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS
Seven days, 9am - 5pm 02 4441 6756
Victoria BELLARINE PENINSULA
ROUSA SURFBOARDS Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm, 0403 693 333
THORNBURY
ZAK SURFBOARDS Mon - Fri 10am - 6pm, Sat 10am - 5pm 03 9416 7384
TORQUAY
COFFS HARBOUR
Seven days, 9am - 5pm 03 5261 6077
NEWTON 4/6 Druitt Court Open most days, just call. 0402 864 062
ISLAND SURF SHOP, COWES
WOODEN BOARD REPAIRS Mon-Sat 9am-4pm 0412 376 464
Tues - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am - 12pm 0432 330 826
SURF CRAFT REPAIRS JIM
PHILLIP ISLAND
DO YOU FIX BROKEN BOARDS?
Promote your surfboard repair business for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201
STONKER
THE SURFERS SHED Seven days, 9am - 5pm 0437 246 848
EASTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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FOR THE LOCALS! We stock Rip Curl, Hurley, Rusty, Volcom, Tigerlily, Elwood, Seafolly, Havi’s, Vans, etc… & all things surf For surfers, by surfers - support your local business! Want to see yourself here? Call 0401 345 201.
60 Burgess Street, Bicheno, Tasmania (03) 6375 1717
ANY CLOSER TO THE SUPERBANK, AND YOU’D BE IN THE LINE UP
Stay in Byron Bay
& enjoy direct access to the beach
Self-contained apartments across from some of the most amazing surf on the Gold Coast!
2 & 3 bedroom apartments, a two minute walk from Byron’s town centre.
190 Marine Pde, Rainbow Bay, Coolangatta WWW.COLUMBIAAPARTMENTS.COM.AU CALL 07 5599 0666
Mick Fanning Photo: Quiksilver
P: 02 6685 8646 E: info@outriggerbay.com www.outriggerbay.com
It’s not called The Observatory for nothing...
WATCH THE SUN RISE OVER COFFS HARBOUR • Spacious studio & 2-bed self-catering apartments • Private balconies • Spectacular views 30-36 Camperdown Street Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450 (Walk to the Jetty Strip eateries) P: 1300 302 776 E: info@theobservatory.com.au
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Enquiries: Cam 0408 983 702 Alicia 0432 686 751 Email: surf1770@bigpond.com
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DOES WORK IT ?
THE RETRO
TRIED A ND TES TED
3’ x 13 ¾” x 2 1/8”
SPECIFICATIONS • 2-Tone retro colours • Clear grip • 180mm longboard trucks • 70mm wheels • Abec 7 bearings • ½” rubber risers-pads COST AU$ 369.00 shadowskates.com
Jamie and Steve take a break to check the surf. Photo: Connor Ferguson
Steve Daddow Photo: Connor Ferguson
DOWNHILL SURFERS
STEVE DADDOW, JAMIE GWILLIM & JASON WRIGHT GIVE SHADOW SKATES A ROLL
“FUN BOARD TO CRUISE THE STREETS AND TO CHECK THE SURF! BUST A SLIDE AND CARVE IT UP LIKE YOU’RE SURFING!” Steve Daddow, downhill skater
If you’re planning on launching a skateboard range and you need some input, you may as well ask some of the best for their thoughts. That’s exactly what Ian Llambi and Hayley Windsor of Shadow Skates did when they got Steve Daddow and mates Jamie Gwillim and Jason Wright to give the foam and fibreglass surfboard/skateboard hybrid creations a go. “A great boardwalk cruiser and around town board,” said Jamie. “Rolling to the shops or dancing the boardwalk, all good!”
With more cred on wheels than almost anyone, pro skaters Steve, Jamie and Jason are better known for flying down hills at ludicrous speeds than they are for cruising a beach boardwalk, but they swapped their bikeleathers and slide-gloves for boardies to have a roll on these rather unique boards. So, why are these different? Well, for a start, instead of the decks being made from something like laminated maple or bamboo, Shadow Skates are instead highdensity EPS foam and epoxy - made using the same process as a regular surfboard, with tweaks to
maximise strength and keep the size down. The truck mounts are designed to look like ridgy-didge fin-boxes, and a leash-plug even adds a secure way to lock up you board. Surfboard-inspired all the way! “I can surf when there is no surf,” says Jason. “Really cool to cruise the beach streets. Stoked!” So, it’s a thumbs up from guys who know what they’re talking about. We’re keen to see how they go for gumbies... Us. Stay tuned! Check out the video at www.smorgasboarder.com.au
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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TEST: EVERYTHING
DOES IT WORK? SMORGASBOARDER TRIED AND TESTED
SMOOTH FLOWS THE EL NINO FLUID IS A ‘SPEC’D-UP SHORTBOARD’ ADDITION TO THE RANGE WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN
Test-pilot Elliott (9) - along with pretty much everyone else who has had ride of it - has loved the El Nino Flow softboard. The Fluid is a worthy step up and just as much fun. Designed with the young, developing rider in mind, the Fluid is solid thanks to the two-stringer setup, easy to paddle thanks to the stable foam construction and comfortable to ride (and fall off of) because it’s, well, soft! On our test day, while the conditions weren’t great, it didn’t dampen the fun factor at all. Finn and Mali Davis also got in on the action, and between the three of them gave the Fluid a big thumbs up.
FLUID 6'0"
(Also in 7'0") Features: Two stringers, nose and tail bumpers, legrope, EPSHG core (7’0).
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Bright and colourful, with the signature orange fins, the El Nino range of softboards is really appealing to the kids. The fact that it’s soft and safe, with price point of $279.95 is even more appealing to parents. And as a side note, these are just as much fun for the parents if you’re light on your feet. *Thanks to Damo, Finn, Mali and Elliott for being testers!
TOP: Elliott heads to the beach. ABOVE: Finn digs in for a bottom turn.
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Jervis Bay Stand Up Paddle
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0403 354 716
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SCAN ME TO VISIT THE WEBSITE
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3 Banksia Dve, Byron Bay T 02 6685 8778 E info@mcsurf.com.au
It’s more than a sport, it’s a lifestyle
Clothing & Accessories
WWW.PALMALLEYAUSTRALIA.COM
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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“ONCE UPON A TIME SURFERS USED TO HATE ONLY TWO THINGS IN THE WATER: SHARKS AND CLUBBIES.”
With wave-riding like this, Shane Goodwin of SG Paddleboards in Christchurch shows why SUP surf hating may just be a little bit silly.
SUP TO THE Photo courtesy of SG Paddleboards
WELCOME to the Dark Side,
an occasional piece on the world of SUP Surfing, something some of you like doing, some of you might like to do and some of you wouldn’t do even for a million bucks... Or so you’ve sworn to your mates. For a lot of traditional surf media, a SUP is the elephant in the room - not to be spoken about, unless Kelly or Mick did suddenly take it up in a big way. At Smorgasboarder however, enjoys hunting these kind of elephants down, cutting off tusks and grinding them into powder to sell to moronic blokes with various dysfunctions. Extremely
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figuratively of course. We really like actual, live elephants with their big flappy ears.
Meanings in the English language have become fairly overblown in the last 20 years or so. I think it all started when anyone who could solve the Rubik’s Cube in under two minutes was referred to as a genius, celebrities like the Kardashians are referred to as personalities, and the word passionate is bandied about by contestants on reality cooking and music talent shows with reckless abandon. For the record, Italians are passionate. Aussies and Kiwis are generally mildly interested, or keen as – eh.
Which brings me to the word ‘hate.’ It’s a fairly strong word and should be used sparingly. However, lots of people say they ‘hate’ things when they usually mean they just ‘don’t like them very much.’ However, for the sake of brevity and my two-fingered typing, let’s stick with ‘hate’ rather than ‘don’t like very much.’
Once upon a time surfers used to hate only two things in the water: sharks and clubbies. We used to bag out clubbies, but had some great parties in the Surf Club with them on New Years Eve and ultimately we were all mates, because we had the ocean in common.
A lot of people really love sharks now... Apparently.
Since those days surfers have had lots of new things to hate: kneeboarders, goat boats, esky lids, longboarders and now - SUP surfers. Since kneeboarders and Esky Lids didn’t really get more waves than your average surfer, just more of a bunch of weirdos and nuisances, the level of hate hasn’t been that high. Goat boaters weren’t even surfing, but they got a lot of waves, so lots of hate there. There weren’t that many of them and like the dinosaurs, they mostly disappeared.
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CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS
E DARK SIDE But then a whole breed of dinosaurs re-appeared in the form of the dreaded longboarder. Here was a bunch that you could really hate - they got more waves, dropped in more often, and usually they were old and had no business out in the water when they should have been playing golf or bowls. However, they didn’t go away, they got more popular and even young dudes and dudettes starting surfing the bigger boards - and really well too! Less hate - even acceptance - especially as one got older. More recently, there’s been someone new to hate: SUPs, committing all of the previous
sins of longboarders and also adding a few new ones - huge, heavy, hard to control boards, clueless in a line up due to no previous surf experience in most cases, and looking down on you as they paddle past on the way to stealing your next wave! True on most accounts. So with that in mind what we would like to achieve is a bit of surf education to those interested, and those who just like to read a piece on SUPs for the sake of shouting insults out loud like a footy fan watching TV. We’ll also generally talk about and showcase relevant products. We would like to keep it pretty much surf related, so you
won’t be hearing too much about racing, or probably downwinders, SUP yoga and the like. Okay, make that absolutely no buoy-rounding, but maybe some yoga. I look good in yoga pants. As always, it’s not all about us though! We’re always happy to hear your input, ideas and intelligent thoughts.
“You’re all a bunch of nobheads” doesn’t qualify as a thought.
Feel free to drop us a line on letters@smorgasboarder.com.au, and look forward to actual content and other interesting stuff in this very column in our next edition.
Not only is JEFF ‘JIFF’ MORRIS the guy that runs around for Smorgasboarder in NZ, he’s also a mad keen surfer and SUP rider, world traveller, gear tester and an ace with a keyboard. jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Classic food with a modern twist Enjoy Coffs’ Yes, this is an actual brekkie burger from The Galley...
Healthy & hand-made on the premises with fresh ingredients.
Sandwiches, wraps & more
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@ the Marina Opposite the Fish Co-Op Coffs Harbour International Marina T: 02 6650 0188 E: thegalleytakeaway@gmail.com
A BOUTIQUE ROASTERY WITH A PASSION FOR PRODUCING QUALITY COFFEE.
Byron Sunset Happy Hour! Monday to Friday 4-6pm Half price selected Tapas (Calamari and dips) $5 select beers & house wine, $10 Margaritas
want Artisti in your café? Give us a call...
SPONSORS TAKING RESPONSIBILITY Gabriel Medina won the ASP World Title for 2014. At age 20. My kids would be able to rattle off every one of his sponsors who he represented today. I don’t take much notice but they certainly do. When requesting a soccer shirt from a certain English Premier League team from Santa this past year, it had to come with the right logo on the front, not the one with last year’s sponsor. Of course my response was “you’ll get what you’re given”, however it was startlingly obvious to me that at least to the younger generation, sponsors have great pulling power. My recent awareness of this fact got me thinking about what sponsors truly represent in the surfing world. Ironically, at times the companies that put money forward to support well known surfers and competitive surfing events represent materials and production processes used that have negative effects on the ocean environment. Will it one day be something we look back on and wonder why it was not questioned earlier? Similar to cigarette companies no longer being able to sponsor major sporting events, will we soon all be privy to the fact that riding a surfboard that will not break down in the landfill or wax that will leach chemicals back into the ocean be an obvious hypocrisy? Not to rave on like a tree hugging lunatic but it seems evident to me that one day big name sponsors will need to take responsibility for what they are truly representing. Not to sound like a hater of big brands, this is simply to point out that there is some hypocrisy involved in sponsorship that perhaps, not everyone is aware of.
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Unfortunately, until the likes of tree-hugging lunatics like myself jump up and down and create enough noise for change to start to happen, the youth watching our sporting stars will continue to be enchanted by big business without a thought for our environment. There is no perfect solution. We need the financial support so that events can continue and individuals can make a living from the sport we all love so much. But the cycle needs to change – if a sustainabilty-oriented surf brand became a major sponsor, more people would take notice and therefore more sustainable products would be purchased meaning a better result for the environment. Likewise, if more people bought sustainable products from a sustainability-oriented surf brand that brand would one day have enough coin to become a sponsor of a major event or surfer meaning that more people would become aware of those sustainable products and the environment would benefit as a result. The question remains though, which will come first – the chicken or the egg? Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of the nice folks from Surfing Green, a couple passionate about sustainable surfing products.
surfinggreen.com.au
SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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ROADTRIP REVIEWS BY MARK CHAPMAN
MUSIC
SCORE FREE COPYAO THE ALBU F SEE PAGE M12!
THE BRAVES
SOUTH PAW PRODUCT MASTERSTROKE RECORDS It seems we’re on a retro-ish trip here at the moment. While last edition, it was all psychedelic here in the office, The Braves bring a grimier, punkier edge to the current listening. Fans of Dead Kennedys will instantly feel at home, with jangly guitars and even occasional Jello-ish vocals, but add to that ‘50s rock ‘n roll and ‘60s surfy sounds, and even dirty distorted sax - like on “24 Hours a Day”, and you have a raw, noisy, lo-fi bit of garagey goodness that feels like sitting in a dodgy bar in Fortitude Valley at 2am. Messy, noisy (did I mention it was noisy?) and we love it. Labelmates with Stompy and the Heat, The Braves are a great addition to the Masterstroke stable. Enjoy! OUR PICK OF THE BUNCH!
ARCA XEN
CREATE/CONTROL | MUTE
Challenging stuff here, not for the faint-hearted. Dischordant keyboards and weird, spacey sounds with sparse, off-beat percussion is pretty much the theme of the 15 instrumental tracks here. If you like heavily experimental sounds, this will be an interesting ride for you. Don’t try dance to it...
THE OCCUPANTS HINDSIGHT PAVEMENT RECORDS
Big sounds, unbelievable musicianship and massive musical textures. Coming from COG’s Flynn and Luke Gower, this four track EP took shape in the creative hub of Byron Bay. The progressive sounds of this four-track EP will make even the fussiest muso-afficianado more than happy. Get it! SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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CLOSEOUT: SOCIALS
WORDS: DARREN HOOPER
Organisers Darren and Damian
SURFING PULSE Light offshore winds and two to three foot waves greeted students participating in this year’s annual Pacific Pulse Surfing Contest, held at Kings Beach, Caloundra in the wrap-up of the 2014 season. Talara Primary College, Buddina State School, Currimundi State School and Our Lady of the Rosary joined Pacific Lutheran College, who each sent a team of ten surfers. Each student surfed two heats during the day and surfers were not only surfing for their school but were also surfing as individuals for highest wave scores. Buddina State School took the school honours for the year, with Our Lady of the Rosary coming in second. Talara was in third place, and Currimundi fourth. With a young team of surfers and the solid surf on the day, host school Pacific finished fifth, however highlights for them were winning the Tag Team surfing event at the end of the contest with a display of some creative surfing, as well as Year 3 student Haylie Powell taking the title of Under 10 Girls Champion in her first year of competing.
LEFT: Groms and Smorgasboarders BELOW: Tafe thong throwers
BELOW: Host school Pacific’s surfing team
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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THE LOGO SAYS IT ALL! • THE SURF • THE MOUNTAIN • THE OIL & ENGINEERING INDUSTRIES • STARS - SOUTHERN CROSS • BARBED WIRE - FARMLAND • WINGS - FREEDOM PH +64 (06) 758 1757
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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CLOSEOUT: SOCIALS
BICHENO BOARDS WORDS: RONNIE MCCULLOCH
Tasmania is an island surrounded by some serious oceans and it’s now well known that we have a lot of quality surf. Tassie’s current big wave gladiators are amongst the worlds best, but, our surfing history goes way deeper than many realize. The North East coast town of Bicheno is a popular holiday destination flanked by sparkling beaches, and also home to a couple of serious slabs. In late November the town hosted an annual food and wine festival, and for the third year running the display of vintage and classic surfboards has become an integral part of this celebration of coastal culture. This year around 100 boards were on display, from ‘50s wooden boards to classic D fins, pocket rockets, Bobby Brown, George Downing, Bennett, Dillon, Wade, Keyo, McCoy, Peterson, Anderson, and lots of Tasmanian-made boards, including local shaper Brendan Milch’s slick Passion 8 designs and Peterson replicas. Featured collectors included West Coaster Phil Critchlow who made the long trip with a bunch of gems, Bicheno local and festival chairman Chris Blogg, Falmouth’s Ronnie McCulloch, and Hobart’s Andrew Williamson.
SMORGASBOARDER TO YOUR DOOR GET ONE YEAR’S HOME-DELIVERY FOR ONLY $25.
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SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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CUTS WAX LIKE BUTTER Moulded grip
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Some things just shouldn’t get wet. WASP Bags are completely water and sand proof. Noticed how if you y get the tiniest bit of sand or o water in your phone, iPod or o camera they are never quite the t same again? Thanks to their unique seal, WASP Bags ensure u that the things that should stay t dry, d stay dry.
Buy online or ask your friendly surf shop...
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SMORGASBOARDER | SUMMER 2015
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PARTING SHOT
WHAT BETTER WAY to wrap up this Noosa-fest of an edition than with a little reminder of how Noosa - and any place, for that matter - is best enjoyed. Peter Neely (the man behind the Indo Surf and Lingo book) gives us a glimpse back to lazy days in a hammock, enjoying the simplest of pleasures in life. Now we’re off to do the same...
Noosa National Park during the early ‘80s. Photo: Peter Neely
Peter, chilling, Noosa 1976 (Peter’s unit back then, near where the Seasons Resort is now, was $42 a week)
SUMMER 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER
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And with this tale of unfortunate holiday season revelry, we leave you again for another couple of months. Be good, catch some waves!
EASTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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