LOVING SURFING AMAZING PEOPLE CRAFT & CRAFTSMANSHIP
SMORGASBOARDER F
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DETAILS & STUFF WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP Grab it FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafés on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania, Western Australia and New Zealand... And online.
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$21 IN AUSTRALIA OR NZ GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.
World-traveller, writer, photographer and Saltmotion gallery-owner Joel Coleman documents a tropical trip to the wilds of West Java.... Page 50
THE SMORGASBOARDERS STUFF, THINGS & ADVERTISING Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201 NEW ZEALAND THINGS ‘Jiff’ Morris jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz +64 (0)220 943 913 STUFF & DESIGN Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN THINGS James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552 STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE Louise Gough louise@smorgasboarder.com.au GEAR TESTS, MUSIC REVIEWS & OTHER THINGS Angus Brown gus@smorgasboarder.com.au
CONTRIBUTIONS This is YOUR mag. It’s here for you to tell your stories, show your pictures and share your thoughts - and score some free stuff on the way too, to boot. Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au. There’s only a few of us, so if you don’t hear back right away, we’re not ignoring you, we’re just running madly or “testing equipment.” Don’t be so sensitive. Sheesh. Yes, we do pay for some content, but just like us, you’ll hardly retire off it. That said, we’re always keen to meet nice new people to share the journey with, so drop us a line.
WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.
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SMORGASBOARDER | MAY/JUN 2013
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We print with Pep Central and Craft Inprint Group, an environmentally aware and committed printer whose business is founded upon the principles of minimising waste and maximising recycling. Nice work.
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NOTE #18:
LIVE IT “The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” Eleanor Roosevelt
There is possibly no greater thrill in life than adventure. It‘s good for the soul, reinvigorating us from within. Whether it be exploring new frontiers, enriching our mind or trying something different to the norm, it’s important for us all to adventure beyond our usual sense of being. Through our winter edition we will take you on a journey of great adventure from the warm waters of the tropics with girl guide Amy Kotch, to the bone chilling seas surrounding Vancouver Island with crow-eater nut-job James Ellis. Jordie Brown of High Tide Surfboards and our own Mark Chapman of no particular fame at all, undertake a survivalist course in the wilds of the Sunshine Coast Hinterland (apparently the grass was reeaally long) and discover, despite what Bear Grylls says, you really don’t need to drink your own urine to stay alive – handy if you ever become marooned on a deserted isle after a surf trip gone wrong.
Damage-magnet Dave Swan roughs it on his distribution run once again and Jiff Morris does it tough over in NZ - with not a hot tub in sight - in a continuation of our Random Tales from the Road series. If that’s not enough action-packed adventure for you, we have waves in Java and Sumba to get your heart racing and the lord of flex, Mitchell Rae of Outer Island educates us on what makes the perfect surfboard that’s bound to springboard you to your ‘happy place’ on your next ocean odyssey.
Power Base Fins & Boxes - Completely Integrated
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SUBSCRIBER’S COMPETITION
WINNER! The lucky, lucky subscriber to win a fantastic quiver of four great boards and a Triple X Wetsuit is Mark Bish of Eagle Farm, QLD. Congrats! Enjoy the gear!
Photo: Sarso, experiencing some Outer Island flextail fun. Courtesy of G-Land Bobby’s Surf Camp. www.grajagan.com
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INSIDE THIS ISSUE
32 SURVIVAL
Why would a Vicco surfboard shaper be out in the bush?
14 ISLAND GIRL
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LADIES FIRST
Amy Kotch talks about her amazing island life as a surf guide
BOARDS AND ART
We have a winner! And Joel Beck shows his skills with a pen
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OUTDOOR SURVIVAL
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VISITING CANADA
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ROAD TALES
50
WEST JAVA
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SUMBA STYLE
Tolhurst/Ingleby
Jordie Brown spends a weekend in the Queensland bush
Settle into part two of James Ellis’ North American adventure
Our regular travel journal of happy faces and amazing places
Get rubbered up for the reef in this tropical getaway
Feast your eyes on an incredible wave in the most idyllic location
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OFFICER FRIENDLY
We meet another avid local collector of all things surf
We chat to surf guide Amy Kotch about her charmed life
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SPIRIT EYE OPENER Outer Island shaper Mitchell Rae talks about flex appeal
THE USUAL BITS THE LATEST
18 Reader photos 24 News and community
GEAR
63 THIN BLUE LINE-UP Catching crooks, catching waves and collecting surfboards
74 78 82 84
Surfboards Michele Vallenari Andrew Wells Wetsuits
CLOSEOUT 87 89 91 93 97
Film Dings & Directories Columns Socials Aloha Barry
HIHPs L: 9’0 W: 22 1/2” TH: 2 11/16”
SURFTECH AUSTRALIA
www.surftechaustralia.com.au 02 4226 1322
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FIRST WAVE
1.
PERU: Getting barrelled once is noteworthy. Getting barrelled twice on the same wave, and getting your mate to snap the sequence for proof... That is just legendary. Photo courtesy of Oscar Corzano www.peruaventura.com
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2.
Rusty
DOZER
3.
5’8/19.25/2.31 5’10/19.56/2.37 6’0/19.81/2.5 6’2/20.06/2.62 6’4/20.31/2.69
GTR 5’10/18.46/2.32 6’0/18.78/2.48 6’2/19.01/2.5 6’4/19.25/2.6
Simon
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DK 5’10/19.92/2.38 6’0/20.25/2.6 6’2/20.59/2.6 6’4/20.5/2.6 6’6/20.5/2.65
XFC 6’0/18.38/2.25 6’1/18.63/2.31 6’2/18.75/2.38 6’3/19/2.44
8.
C O N T R O L
S Y S T E M
SURFTECH AUSTRALIA
www.surftechaustralia.com.au 02 4226 1322
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ISLAND GIRL Amy Kotch is living a dream. She is living your dream. Hell, she is living my dream and everyone’s dreams. This lucky lady lives on a tropical island with her husband Richard, who is a professional photographer. She’s the resident surf guide on not one, but two resorts, where she takes guests for their daily feast of waves, no doubt grabbing a few for herself as she shows them the ropes. And Amy also just happens to be a swimwear model for Hive bikinis. Born and raised in Southern California, Amy in fact didn’t get into surfing until quite late in life. She was nineteen when she caught the bug whilst at Uni, migrating from longboards to shortboards, and eventually to surfing the best breaks around the world and becoming the first female surf guide at the renowned Four Seasons surf resort in the Maldives. It was in the Maldives she met Richard who was working on a neighbouring resort. When the two became engaged, Richard’s boss - Shaun Levings from World Surfaris - offered them the unbelievable opportunity to work together as a team. We recently had the pleasure of asking Amy about this dream existence of hers and admittedly ended up very jealous in the process. WORDS: DAVE SWAN PHOTOS: RICHARD KOTCH
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LADIES FIRST JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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SO AMY, TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT HOW YOU SPEND YOUR NOMADIC TWELVE MONTHS A YEAR... My husband and I were already leading nomadic lifestyles before we “joined forces”. He had left England at eighteen, traveling and surfing, and never looked back. I had been living in Indonesia, then moved to the Maldives where we met. Now we continue to live out of our bags and travel with everything we own. Six months of the year from mid-April to mid-October Richard and I work for World Surfaris at Hudhuranfushi Resort in the Maldives and for the last two ‘off’ seasons we have spent from November to April in Micronesia working for Pohnpei Surf Club, which is the surf camp at P-Pass. We have about a week between each job. Last year we did a boat trip in the Mentawais with our friend Kadu on his boat, Star Koat. This year we spent a couple of days in Singapore eating good food and relaxing. GIVE US A RUNDOWN ON THESE SURF DESTINATIONS... THE WAVES, THE EXPERIENCE.... Hudhuranfushi Resort is situated in the North Male region of the Maldives. The waves in this region are fairly soft, but fun and rippable with the occasional good barrel day. The nice thing about the Maldives is there is pretty much
something to surf every day of the season. The down side is that it can get crowded. The best days for us out here in the Maldives are the big days when the guests don’t want to surf!
YOU SURF DREAM BREAKS ON A DAILY BASIS, BUT IS THERE ANYWHERE YOU HAVE NOT YET SURFED THAT YOU’RE KEEN TO EXPERIENCE?
P-Pass is a heavy right hand barrel over a fairly shallow reef. It’s not for the fainthearted but it is one of the most perfect rights I have ever seen. It is a bit more fickle than the Maldives though. The best swells for us are the in-between swells when they’re not big enough for all the pros to fly in for. That’s when you get to surf a perfect right-hander with only a handful of guys out!
Greenbush (Mentawai Islands), Chicama in Peru and Cloudbreak (Fiji) are on my “to do” list for sure! Last October when we went to the Ments on Star Koat. I fell in love with Macaronis. Rich just had to drag me away as I was ready to swap the Maldives over for living in the jungle in front of Maccas!
YOU’VE MENTIONED THE ‘ABNORMAL LIFESTYLE’ OF A RESORT GUIDE… CAN YOU GIVE US A RUNDOWN OF YOUR TYPICAL DAY? It’s a funny one because most people don’t realise that what we do is an actual “job”. We’re on the boat about seven hours a day, seven days a week, taking guests to the breaks and in between we‘re sorting and editing the thousands of photos that we take, doing blogs, putting out fires, dealing with guest relations issues and answering emails. It can be pretty full on for the 180-day season. But there are some amazing days that are magical, with pristine conditions and hardly anyone out, so the job definitely has its perks! We’re really lucky to be able to do it together as a team.
Richard and I are just so thankful to be living the life we do. I am so thankful to companies like Hive Swimwear, Zeal Optics, Lunasurf accessories and Dahlberg Surfboards for supporting me and of course Shaun at World Surfaris. From a lady who, once she began to surf, “lived and breathed surfing, dreaming that one day she would live somewhere warm and tropical”, things have turned out okay. It goes to show what you can do when you truly chase after what you want out of life. As Oprah Winfrey once said (you heard right, I am quoting Oprah), “The biggest adventure you can ever take is to live the life of your dreams.” For more on Amy’s day job and great pics by Richard, check out the World Surfaris website at www.worldsurfaris.com
“THERE ARE SOME AMAZING DAYS THAT ARE MAGICAL, WITH PRISTINE CONDITIONS AND HARDLY ANYONE OUT, SO THE JOB DEFINITELY HAS ITS PERKS! 16
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CONGRATS...
...to Jordan Barta for this cool grab of surfer Josh Ku in the air. You score yourself some super cool Slide Fins for the effort! www.slidefins.com JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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READER PHOTOS
letters@smorgasboarder.com.au
Tyler Andrews of Mount Maunganui scored himself some stitches and a concussion thanks to a fight with his fins.
Fins out on the Goldie. a cracker shot from Craig Bessant
IN-HOUSE SHAPING SURFBOARD MACHINE CUTTING SERVICE CUSTOM SURFBOARDS CUSTOM LAMINATING CUSTOM ARTWORK HURRICANE SURF ACCESSORIES
Reef Heazlewood in the frame. This great photo by Jaegan Taylor
+ CoLAB IS THE HOME OF...
SURFBOARD SHAPERS: CONTACT US FOR OUR AWESOME RANGE OF PLUGS AND FINS!
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(07) 5493 3539 20
Ten-year-old Aidan Chamberlain from Bulli. One to watch, photographer Ewan Marshall tells us.
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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1/07/13 12:33 AM
ARTIST: MARTIN VARBARO PHOTO: SR, MALEVINI
CUSTOM ART MATERIALS EXPRESS YOURSELF WITH MOLOTOW™ ORIGINALS – the most sophisticated artists’ tools worldwide. PREMIUM: high-quality aerosol with great coverage, UV & weather resistant, available in 251+ colours. ONE4ALL™: ONE4ALL™ acrylic-based hybrid paint with great coverage for nearly all surfaces, UV & weather resistant, available as markers and refills in 40 brilliant colours. For all customer enquiries: info@molotow.com.au Web: molotow.com.au JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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READER PHOTOS
Dale Frank of Aireys Inlet in Victoria captured this great sequence, giving us behind-the-scenes look at a surf photo shoot in the making. PS - We also missed out on crediting Dale for a cracker photo of Lachie Brearley a few editions ago, so we’re glad to get his name to these amazing shots!
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NEWS THIS IS THE
Get back to the roots...
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE LOCAL SURFING COMMUNITY editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au
facebook.com/smorgasboarder
twitter.com/smorgasboarder
MadFli man, Chris Loock
with paulownia
Our buoyant, lightweight timber floats all around the world. • Tom Wegener preferred alaia blanks • Alaia & Kite Boards • Long Boards • Hollow Boards • Chambered Boards
A BUZZ IN THE AIR
Sunshine Coast entrepeneurs, Chris Loock and Chris Barry have created a brand new range of fantastic skate shoes called MAD FLI. Only 22, Chris #1 teamed up with Chris #2 while finishing up a uni degree. A keen skater and surfer, the opportunity was a perfect fit for Chris’ life on the coast. As to the shoes, while the styles available are great-looking walking shoes, it’s not just about fashion - the functional design ideas behind the design are pretty darn slick. With super high-quality construction to withstand the physical demands that skateboarding places on your gear. In a flash of billiance, they’ve even added a side-pad to the sole, to protect the shoes from scuffing due to jump tricks. Smart shoes. Check out the range at www.madfli.com.au
SURFBOARD SUPPLIES
Buy the Best Paulownia Timber Australia has to offer. Contact David Evans P: 03 9588 2533 E: info.sales@paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com W: www.paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com
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WALLY WEAR On the subject of cool gear, Wally’s Water Gallery in Marcoola, QLD have just done their first range of t-shirts for men, women and kids. Grab one. info@wallyswatergallery.com.au
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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SO MUCH SURF GEAR IN STORE YOU WILL BE AMAZED! FROM SURFBOARDS TO SKATEBOARDS, WETTIES, SURFWEAR AND ALL THE LATEST GADGETS
SURFWARE AUSTRALIA NEW!
POWER TO THE PEOPLE
M ADFLI S
KATE AVAILASBHOES L STORE! E IN
If you have suffered a serious injury that prevents you from surfing or just want to tackle some far-off remote break without the need for a tow partner or jetski, this may be the answer. A Sunshine Coast company has developed Powerboards - motorised paddle assist surfboards ranging from 6’4” through to an 11’6” SUP. for more, see www.powerboards1.com
The Carpe Vita - a luxurious opportunity for a surf trip with Barton Lynch
SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE 2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD 4551 Telephone (07) 5491 3620 Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day
SURFWAREAUSTRALIA.COM
A BRUSH WITH FAME
The Perfect Wave Surf Travel Experience plan to get you surfing with some famous names. TPW’s Ben Horvath says while the core of the business is Indo and Maldives surf escapes for the average surfer, they’re also devoting a lot of time and energy into developing unique experiences. “For example, we have teamed up with some absolute legends of our sport/lifestyle – ambassadorial guys like Barton Lynch and Rabbit Bartholomew,” Ben says. “Barton and ‘Bugs’ are hosting boat charters in paradise, and you are invited.” “We call these unique trips Go With A Pro. Not only do you get to hang out, surf, have a beer and a yarn, but these former World Champions and pioneers of our sport and lifestyle will pass on years of knowledge, experience and lifestyle tips. Barton is hosting a trip to the Maldives on the luxurious Carpe Vita in May 2014 and a late season November 2013 charter in The Mentawai on The D’Bora. His charming wife Holly will host Yoga sessions and BL will coach and provide video analysis.” “Rabbit is hosting a Haira Maldives charter from October 16-26, 2013. For any enquiries or more info on these unique Go With A Pro trips with The Perfect Wave email ben@theperfectwave.com.au or go to www.theperfectwave.com.au/surf-with-wayne-rabbit-bartholomew.html
GOT NEWS?
Send it in. Upcoming events, charity happenings, interesting stories, email to: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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WEET
A SURF TRIP IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE SKIPPER...
you? to look after t s u r t u o y Who would on... Tony Elthringt
Australian sea “...a legendary oris.” salt named D Minutes
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as seen on rfer uth African su e rescue of So th r te (af ld) iba ch Ar Brett
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SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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?
RIP Chris O’Brien
GIANT MAN, MASSIVE LOSS TALLEBUDGERA LOCAL SURFING LARRIKIN
CHRIS O’BRIEN PASSES AWAY MAY 15, 2013 I hope never in my existence to lose a child. As any parent would agree, you would like to go before the passing of your son or daughter. During my most recent trip down the Australian east coast delivering our May/ June edition of Smorgasboarder I was informed of the tragic news of the passing of Chris O’Brien, the son of Nancy and John ‘Flipper’ O’Brien - my dad’s best mate. To say they are close family friends would be a massive understatement. They aren’t family friends, they are family. I’ve have been fortunate to know them my entire life, as well as their sons Chris and Shaun - both top blokes, down-to-earth as they come, with a genuine love for family, friends and life. Chris was a mountain of a man and loved to surf. He spent most of his teenage years and early twenties chasing waves along the Victorian Surf Coast with his good mate Martin and brother Shaun before later moving to Tallebudgera Valley on the Gold Coast. Standing close to 6’5” I think he wouldn’t have needed worry about anyone snaking him on the Goldie’s busy breaks. Burleigh was his favourite. He was a much loved and adored husband of wife Velette, daughters Courteney, Marlowe, Tenille, Tegan and Allana. A fair assessment of his standing in the community and the love people had for Chris is the some 800+ people who attended his memorial service at the Tallebudgera Community Hall. At the end of the service there wasn’t a dry eye in the house. It’s harsh how life often claims all the good ones first. Rest in peace mate. Dave Swan JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST: & GREATEST
GET THAT PAINT ON Photos by Matthias Scheffler.
MOLOTOW TEST RUN AT CO-LAB Joel Beck of Beck Surfboards/Co-Lab here on the Sunshine Coast was such a big fan of the Molotow range of paints, pens and spraycans that he jumped at the chance of being involved in the art competition, generously putting up a blank board as a prize for the comp. Here’s a few shots of Joel giving Molotow a go in his own way, Beck-style.
For more info, see Facebook for Beck Surfboards -www.facebook.com/ beckboards, check out Molotow at www.facebook.com/molotow.com.au and Gas Fins at www.facebook.com/gasfin
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#1
SHOW US YOUR ART,
WIN A BLANK CANVAS!
HONORABLE MENTIONS
While there weren’t plans for runner-up prizes, we loved getting the entries so much, we’ve put up some home subscriptions to Smorgasboarder for these entries: Amy Alexander’s cheery design was extremely popular on our Facebook page, so she gets our Online Honours Readers Choice. Sisters Kayla, 10 and Tasmin, 8 did such great designs, they score a year of magazines for their home too!
AND THE WINNER IS... After far too much deliberation and hair-tearing, the winner of the SHOW US YOUR ART, WIN A BLANK CANVAS competition is Maggie Schreiber of Byron Bay. With the huge variety of styles and ideas sent in, it was a mammoth task to choose just one winner, but in the end, Maggie’s bold and classic tattoo-style had won us all over - not to mention she was also a huge hit with you readers on the Facebook page too. Congrats Maggie! You’re a most deserving winner! Now we can’t wait to see what she does on her brand new BECK board with her fresh set of MOLOTOW paints - we’re sure it’ll be just as cool.
...and this colourful gentleman by Millie DeBoo is just plain brilliant! You can see more of the fantastic quality entries in the gallery at www.facebook.com/smorgasboarder
Maggie wins a brand new, blank JOEL BECK surfboard, a set of MOLOTOW art products, a set of GASFINS carbon-base fins and a pack of HURRICANE accessories, including legrope and deck grip! Congrats to Maggie, thanks to all you talented entrants and to MOLOTOW, BECK, GAS FINS, HURRICANE and CO-LAB. JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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EASY 1 WEEK ESCAPES CONSISTENTLY AMAZING YEAR IN, YEAR OUT. PHOTO: RICHARD KOTCH
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It turns out Victorian surfboard shaper Jordie Brown of High Tide Surfboards is just as avid an outdoorsman as he is a passionate surfer. When he’s not handcrafting some of the finest one-off custom surfboards in the country, he regularly hikes to remote spots to find waves in Australia and abroad. Jordie was keen to expand his knowledge of the bush, so he traded wetsuit for hiking boots and joined up with us for a weekend of survival training in the Sunshine Coast hinterland, hosted by Rich Hungerford of Bush Lore Australia. Armed with the knowledge of a good survival course, if you ever find yourself marooned on a deserted island on a surf trip gone wrong, you’d definitely have the smarts to relax, settle in and surf the break for a year - hoping the rescue boats keep missing you. Over to Jordie on surviving his weekend... WORDS: JORDIE BROWN PHOTOS: MARK CHAPMAN
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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FOOD:
It’s all around, when you know where to look.
Making firesticks
L-R: Jordie, Steve and Luke nurse embers into flames
BEAR GRYLLS... LES STROUD... RAY MEARS? ...As we turned off the bitumen main road and made our way down a narrow dirt track into the hinterlands of the Sunshine Coast, I seriously pondered on what I was about to get myself into. I’m not sure I would ever label myself as a ‘survivalist’, but like many Australians, I’m blessed with having some of the most beautiful but extreme wilderness in the world right at my back door. I know that to explore the bush safely, a firm grasp of some basic survival knowledge can go a long way – not just locally, but even when you’re off exploring remote corners of the globe, searching for unchartered waves. Sometimes, it’s only your own two feet that can get you to that perfect place. So naturally, when the guys from Smorgasboarder asked me to come along on the Bush Lore survival course I was seriously stoked. Before leaving home, both Mark and I were the butt of plenty Bear Grylls-related jokes from our friends and families. “No dear, I don’t think I will have to drink my own urine from a snakeskin. Yes, I will brush my teeth before I get home.” Still, we 34
committed to the wild with no trepidation and finally here we were about to get started.
people about our unique wilderness and wildlife instead.
Up rolled another car and a small-statured, mild-mannered bloke greeted us: Rich Hungerford, a former soldier in the Australian army’s elite SAS regiment who was to be our host for the weekend. I have to admit, Rich was a far cry from the 6’6’’ drill-sergeantbuilt-like-a-brick-shithouse1000-mile-stare stereotype that I was expecting, but he himself says that for the SAS he wasn’t quite the norm.
After a quick meet-and-greet we all loaded into the back of Rich’s 4WD and made our way across a river, driving for about 15 minutes up seriously eroded dirt tracks to Rich’s bush block - a stunning 300acre property bordered by hundreds of acres of National Park. We arrived at a small camp comprised of a big tarp, a whiteboard, a couple of water containers, a tuckerbox and a campfire. Although we weren’t too far from Rich’s house, it really felt like the middle of nowhere – quiet and calm. We relaxed around the campfire with our first Billy tea of the weekend as the final two participants arrived after a flight from Sydney - Luke, a passionate mountaineer, and his partner Yvette, who had booked the Wilderness Survival - Basic Course for his birthday. We truly were a motley crew, from all walks of life and all levels of outdoor experience. After a welcome briefing from Rich, we all started settling in to bush-time and decided it was time to get some shuteye in the great outdoors.
After 20 years of serving as an elite soldier however, he chose to devote his life - along with his wife, Rebel - to protecting the native bush and educating
After a peaceful night’s sleep under the stars we rose early, stoked the fire and put the Billy on to boil. After a couple of cuppas, Rich kicked off the
At the end of the dirt track we came upon a couple of tough-looking blokes standing next to a big 4WD, dressed in Army camo... At that point, I really started wondering what we were in for. As Mark and I jumped out of the car, the two guys came over and introduced themselves as Steve and Greg - two mates who had served in the Navy together. Keen campers and self-confessed preppers (ready for any disaster) from rural Queensland, it turned out they were fellow participants of the survival course – not, in fact, our teachers for the weekend.
WATER:
Jordie samples some muddy creek water through a lifestraw.
FIRE:
Conquering the ultimate caveman skill is a feeling of achievement like no other.
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lessons for the day in the campsite classroom. The basic wilderness survival course that Mark and I were participating in is based around the practical skills as well as the psychology of survival - wisdom that not only can be applied when trouble arises in the bush, but for problem-solving in everyday life too. The agenda for the weekend included: kit and equipment, finding water, wild food, shelter building, navigation by the sun and stars, rescue and firelighting... Not to mention whatever extra tricks of the trade Rich managed to show us along the way! First up, the section of this course that threw me the furthest out of my comfort zone was that of food. Hunger is something that Rich teaches you to understand and cope with, so throughout the weekend you live off the bare minimum. As we were shown our rations for the weekend, I could
THREE MINUTES WITHOUT AIR, THREE DAYS WITHOUT WATER AND THREE WEEKS WITHOUT FOOD...
SHELTER:
The bush-style Ritz honeymoon suite
COMMON SENSE:
Host and course instructor Rich Hungerford has skills and knowledge to impart like few others you’re likely to meet. JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST: ADVENTURE
Classroom, bedroom, living room: Relaxing at the Bush Lore base camp.
already hear Steve’s stomach growling. All we had between six of us was a little bit of basic bush damper, and a few sweet potatoes, which ended up as a simple stew supplemented with some wild leafy greens from the surrounding vegetation. As it turns out, food isn’t that important following the ‘Rule of Three’, which states: the human body can survive for three minutes without air, three days without water and three weeks without food... Three weeks? A weekend’s a piece of cake. Aside from a slight bit of discomfort, I was surprised how well my body functioned on very little. It was the one aspect that I found the most empowering about the whole weekend. Over the next two days, we covered basics of finding and collecting our own drinking water, we learned about and snacked on wild edibles – some weeds you’d find in your very own garden – we learned about building shelters and got to create our very own accommodation for the Saturday night, from scratch, using what 36
we found around us. This all happened at a relaxed pace with some great storytelling happening around the campfire that night to wind a great day down. On Sunday, after a relaxing night in our shelter, it was time for firelighting and I have to say I was more than a little excited. Learning firelighting with the basic bow-drill method was something I had tried many times before, but never perfected until finally being shown the tricks of the trade by Rich. It was so rewarding finally mastering that skill, and now I have that for life. When learning about smoke signals, like a naughty little grommet, my eyes lit up when I was asked to light the 8ft smoke-pyramid made from dried grasses. Made to burn fast and hot to produce as much smoke as possible, the tower went up like a match. Luckily, I escaped with only a slightly singed mustache and still smiling from ear to ear! Awesome.
The knowledge that Rich has to offer isn’t new and unusual, but rather is timeless, passed down from generation to generation since the dawn of time. Survival would have to be one of broadest subjects known to man – impossible to cover entirely in one weekend - but after participating in the Bush Lore course I left with a whole new outlook on the world around me. As surfers it’s so important for us to be aware of what our own bodies are capable of and to have an understanding of our surroundings. Our ocean playground is unpredictable, after all. With modern world trends towards city living and our growing reliance on technology, the basic principles of bush survival are in danger of being forgotten. However while there are those few - like Rich - keeping it alive, there will always be people willing to learn. Unfortunately, If you’re after the cliff-jumping, urine-drinking action of Bear Grylls, you may be a touch disappointed, Rich’s no-
bullshit commonsense approach to survival will have you sitting high and dry sipping a warm cup of tea, while the other survival enthusiasts are figuring out the best way to administer their DIY enema kits. Mark was very grateful. Bush Lore also offers advanced survival, tracking, meat preparation and ‘dads and lads’ courses to suit all kinds of people, catering to all interests and ability levels. After how much I learnt on this course, I definitely know what I’ll be asking Santa (AKA the missus) for next Christmas. For more information on the Bush Lore Australia courses, please see the website at: www.bushloreaustralia.com.au It truly is a mind-expanding experience for people of all levels of experience - not just hardcore survivalists. We honestly can’t recommend it highly enough and have to say a big thank-you to Rich for having us.
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AK-LA PART 2
FOLLOWING NORTH AMERICA’S WEST COAST
TOFINO VANCOUVER ISLAND Those who read about James Ellis’ Alaskan adventure in the May edition of Smorgasboarder would probably have agreed that after all that ice, snow and freezing cold, most sensible humans would head for warmer climes... But not our tough South Australian, no sirree. Now we follow James’ trip to the equally pleasant waters just off the Canadian coast on Vancouver Island. WORDS & PHOTOS: JAMES ELLIS
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE Cox Bay - North End, Tofino. Photo: James Ellis
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE Campground Long-Beach, Pacific Rim NP
Tofino Sushi Bar: green tea and blankets to diners braving the outdoor deck. A little bit of Canadian longboarding action.
TacoFINO - Greatest Mexican food, sold out of a bus
THIS: Cox Bay, North End, Tofino and RIGHT: SUPing McKenzie Beach, Tofino
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Continuing our way South from Alaska, we took several ferries through the ‘inside passage’ - a protected series of channels and islands span a considerable distance of the west coasts of both Alaska and Canada, with some of the richest coastal biodiversity and scenery in the region. The staff aboard the Marine Highway Ferry System are also a pretty diverse bunch, hailing from far and wide - from West Africa, India and Sri Lanka to Italy, NZ and the Pacific Islands, right across to Chile and the USA. As such, their stories and quirks made for an even more educationally enriching experience as we cruised calmly south, spotting Minke whales, Whitesided dolphins, Puffins and more. From the northern Canadian border, there are two options for the traveller to work their way South to Vancouver BC: by sea or by train. We travelled by train inland from Prince Rupert to Jasper, to hike and experience the Icefields Parkway - one of the most scenic drives in the world - before rolling down the hill to Vancouver, the best city in the world. Vancouver is truly larger than life. Youthful... Healthy... Vibrant... Humid... Fresh... Welcoming... Hardworking... Helpful... And it has free yoga? Almost every parkland I saw had ad-hoc yoga sessions run by super-experienced teachers. Imagine pulling up to lawns at home only to find world-class yoga teachers running free classes...This, combined with the every-nighttapas food appreciation culture, SUPs paddling the harbour and hundreds of Canadians biking to work, and you have the ingredients for the coolest of the world’s cities.
Canadians head to the islands west of the city to surf - mainly to Vancouver Island. There are plenty of flights and ferries to get you wherever you want to go, so we rode the ferry and picked up a campervan to boost around in. Vancouver Island is similar to the Northern NSW coastal hinterland in many respects with its organic country markets, bed ‘n breakfasts, farm stays, campgrounds, lakes and peaceful beaches, with Tofino as one of several key meeting places for surfers on their travels around the world. In ways similar to Byron, you’re likely to bump into guys you met surfing in Indonesia, Oceania or Europe here. There’s a continuous flow of travelling surfers - and surfers who are catching their first wave - drifting through Tofino. Another similarity to the Cooly-toByron stretch is the working/surfing lifestyle. When there’s a north swell moving in, the carparks are packed from sunrise to sunset. If a south swell is imminent, the carparks are full, the shops become understaffed and close early, building sites slow down and workers begin trading shifts with the fluidity of the Zimbabwe currency exchange! Reflecting whilst writing, I’d have to say that Canadian surfers seemed the most appreciative of their time in the outdoors surfing. Canadians live and breathe outdoor pursuits, and somehow display gratitude about their love for the surf and healthy outdoor lifestyle in such authentic ways. This tiny township of Tofino, which was once a logging town in the ‘50s, has been slowly transformed into a settling place for surfers.
With eco-tourism booming, realestate prices have been steadily moving up and forcing many surfers to, as they say, “move to Tofino, live on the poverty line.” Despite this, the amount of surfing, life and health benefits that Tofino has going for it still makes it such an amazing, energetic location. To combat the high cost of living, the community bind together whenever and however they can. Possibly the two largest combined efforts is the way the surfing industry works together, nurtures competition and manages equity. The other is the buying groups that exist for locals. The coolest example of this is the local fresh food co-operative, where community members buy a share of the Co-op, shop there for their groceries, and receive a dividend at the end of the year. The Co-op works for the locals, but the travelling surfer can also boost in, grab a bowl of hot soup or chilli, a fair-trade coffee and a muffin, for only $10 (Canadian). A successful local business, Coastal Bliss Yoga, donates studio time for the amazing surfer and yoga teacher Dede Andréane to run a community yoga class, where you pay what you can afford. Dede travels and surfs the world teaching what she loves. When I asked her why she resides in idyllic Tofino, her reply in a French Canadian accent: “Tofino has energIE. Everyone is strong, Everyone is fIT, and hellTie... We eat well, we stay actiFFe, we surF, and grow and play with our famiLIE... It’s all meditation.” Tofino is positioned on the central west coast of Vancouver Island, yet is isolated due to its location at the tip of a long peninsula extending to Pt Albany - which ironically is
in the centre of Vancouver Island. There’s one road in, one road out, past several Indigenous reserves and the Pacific Rim National Park. Boats and float planes are used to access the fishing, surf, thermal pools, sounds, nature watching and islands to the north of Tofino. Such trips require serious experience, planning and connections, but with heaps of excellent beach and reef set-ups available in and near Tofino, it’s much easier to remain in the township - surf at 5am, relax at the inexpensive village organic bakery for breakfast, stretch out at community yoga sessions, eat, chill and drink local organic coffee/ cider in the afternoon, and surf ‘till 10:30pm on a summer night. If you’re backpacking, you can catch the community bus to the surf with your boards and gear. There are several bays that allow different amounts of north and south swell in, depending on its origin. One of the coolest things about these bays is that their geographical orientations differ, so there’s always a spot to catch a wave, regardless of what the wind’s doing. The water temps were not that inviting (4/3 and boots in summer) but that cheery Canadian outlook on life was always on display from the carpark and into the line-up. People were always keen to surf together, get along, share and genuinely enjoy everyone else’s surfing experience. One memorable afternoon when the air-temp was 32°C and the water was 8°C, we were surfing longboards on a tombolo point which formed behind rock out to sea. We shared the takeoff zone with roughly fifty chubby sea-stars. Within the hour, when the tide
“People were always keen to surf together, get along, share and genuinely enjoy everyone else’s surfing experience.” JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE ABOVE: The view from the Surfers Heaven - pizza by the slice - Tofino BELOW: 10pm surfing at an Unnamed Bay Pacific Rim National Park
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2013 coffee, roasted daily in Volcom Lane, Raglan New Zealand! SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG Great
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“Vancouver Island is similar to the Northern NSW coastal hinterland in many respects...” poured in it dragged with it a hint of north-west swell and the world changed... A board change for the shorter was necessary! One more aspect of surfing in Canada that took me by surprise was the ratio of girls to guys in the water, which was often 50:50. This blew me away! After experiencing this completely co-ed surfing setup, I’m sold on how much it enhances the atmosphere. Surfing with complete gender equity in the line-up is something our pastime at home sorely lacks. Many shapers, retailers, surfing businesses and surfing associations around the world recognised this years ago, yet I’d never seen the impact it delivers firsthand. The positive effect of Roxy Surfer-Girls and other programmes has helped transform the Canadian surf experience, to the benefit of all in the water.
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A few weeks on and many great surfing experiences later, we finally packed our bags to move South again, leaving behind the magic equanimity of the peninsula, and its jewel, Tofino. Following the coast to Victoria on the south of Vancouver Island, we would then re-enter the USA and some more serious surfing territory on our way down to our final destination of LA.
In the next edition, we’ll once again catch up with James as his trip takes him into the United States. Back home in Australia however, James not only makes sure Smorgasboarder makes it all the way around the South Australian coast to all your favourite surf shops and cafés, he’s also the man behind Fin Plug Cover. For more information, see the website www.finplugcover.com
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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RANDOM TALES FROM THE ROAD A TRAVEL JOURNAL
WORDS AND PHOTOS: DAVE SWAN & ‘JIFF’ MORRIS
PART III
Moffat Headland
WITH MY ARM still in plaster, the side of my head bandaged from a recent op to remove a chunk of ear, plus my foot still aching from standing on a three-inch nail (I did previously mention I am an accident-prone knobhead) I set off on my delivery run whistling Monty Python’s “Always Look on the Bright Side of Life”. To add insult to injury as I rounded the headland at Moffs (Moffat Beach), under a magic Autumn sky I noticed a nice little slider I wasn’t going to be on...
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Geoff McCoy
Looking towards St Clair and beyond from Ocean Grove.
RELIVING MEMORIES OF THE MIGHTY DUCK Down on the Goldy I caught up with Richard Harvey, our shaping sensei who first taught Mark and I to craft a blank. Well me anyway, Mark’s board was a pile of crap. Here’s a pic of my Stumpy Duck for those who want to marvel at this masterpiece once more (see issue #4 of Smorgasboarder if you still can’t get enough).
RANDOM: ROAD DIARY
DAY 2
DAY 3 ALWAYS A PLEASURE Great to catch up with Geoff McCoy after way too long. I also got to check out some of his more recent amazing McCoy creations in wood. Then I came across this...
The Duck
It was great to hear Richard’s surfboard workshops have taken off and that he will soon launch his online shaping courses through his newly formed Australian Surfboard College. It was also cool to see the recent handy work of some of his former students such as this little rocket by Shane Luke. The Rocket Ace
...beautiful waves from Broken Head all the way to Lennox, just adding to my frustration that I couldn’t get wet. Damn you lords of clumsiness!
Mitchell Rae and Isaac Harry
DAY 4 FLEXI-TIME My distribution run was becoming like a legends tour of the surf industry. This morning I caught up with Mitchell Rae and Isaac Harry of Outer Island Surfboards. Nothing like dribbling over amazing surfboards when you can’t go surfing. I managed to have a great chat with Mitchell about his flextail designs. Check it out on page 66 of this edition. And with that, I had to put the rest of my run on hold and return to the Gold Coast to attend the tragic passing of a family friend taken way too soon. While I had spent my week on the road sleeping out of my van it was great to
hear Jeff was roughing it (pig’s arse) on the NZ leg of the Smorgasboarder mag distribution run. Here’s an excerpt from his silver tails travel diary over the page...
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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RANDOM: ROAD DIARY
Glass of red in comfort...
Roughing it in NZ
With a glass of red in hand and from the cosy comfort of his luxurious Maui campervan/ penthouse apartment on wheels, Smorgasboarder’s silver fox - Jeff ‘Jiff’ Morris - tackled the wilds of the NZ South Island. Bear Grylls eat your heart out! Over to you, Jeff...
DAY SUX MEET AND GREET WITH THE KIWI GODFATHER OF SURF Christchurch: Delivered mags to Jay at Sadhana Surfboards this morning and was also lucky enough to catch up with Denis Quane, one of the founding, if not the founding father of surfboard manufacturing in New Zealand. Denis was the guy
Jay Jackman and Denis Quane
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responsible for sitting in the government office of the “Chief in Charge for distributing import licences” at the time and wasn’t leaving until he got a licence to import urethane foam from Australia to make surfboards in NZ. So many great stories, which I hope to one day share with you... I could easily spend three or four days talking to Denis and Jay over a jar or ten.
once again not being able to go for a surf, this time due to really poor conditions. Oamaru has a lot going for it in my opinion and I will definitely come down for a few days when the stars line up. Inclement In disguise... Abbe and Jeremy
DAY 7 NOTHING BUT BLUE SKIES On to Oamaru. Lots of rain and windy conditions, making for a very relaxing evening in the Maui apartment when I arrived. They say there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing and bad housing. Given that most Aussie and Kiwi blokes only get dressed so that they don’t get arrested, I can’t help you with that one. But when it comes to comfort away from inclement conditions on the road... I think I know the answer to that. Popped into Soul Surf & Skate Oamaru. Abbe was happy to soak up the new edition, while Jeremy and I lamented
DAY 8 TEA FOR TWO? Called in to Quarry Beach Surfboards. Caught Carsey hard at it, sitting on the floor with a cup of tea. Always a good bloke to have a chat and a cup of tea with. One of these days, when I don’t have to head off to Queenstown on the same day, I might even go for something stronger. Coffee?
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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Jon and Jase, NZ Shred
Guardsg,s le d d a P Nose &pe & Leash Plu Rail Ta
Relaxing with a Raglan Roast
DAY 9 & 10 HOW’S THE SERENITY? And so with a heavy heart, I left the rain and cold of Dunedin and started the trek to Queenstown. Caught up with Jon and Jase at NZ Shred. Absolute terrible neck of the woods these boys live in. Complete hovel. Stayed overnight in the Creeksyde Top 10 Holiday Park. Not sure whether this is the coolest motorcamp in NZ but it would have to be in the grand final. Dinner at my favourite Queenstown pizza institution – Winnies. As always, top pizza served with a big smile in a great atmosphere.
DAY 11 SPECIAL DELIVERY Back to Christchurch to top up some mags at Aumoana in Sumner. My special delivery on a FIIK Big Daddy frightening the life out of little children and dogs as I cruised along the boulevard.
k Fins Pro Tec
DAY 12
LAST STOP Dropped in to Surf Kaikoura and met Pete who was stoked to get the latest edition and finally to our old friends at the Top Shop, where Donna and Shona sent me on my way home to Motueka (near Nelson) with a great feed of Fush & Chups. Great week, except for the rain and lack of swell, but the people, places and Maui camper more than compensated.
pair Kts
afe Re Travel S
That Fiik’n delivery guy...
More disguised Kiwis at Top Shop
SURFTECH AUSTRALIA www.surftechaustralia.com.au JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
02 4226 1322
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Fossil beach. Air temp 5-15°c, water temp 6-8°c. Photo: Larry Cornett, Impactzone.smugmug.com
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE Photo: Joel Coleman. www.saltmotion.com JULY/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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The swell of the season was hitting Panaitan Island, West Java when we left Sydney. We would be sure to catch the tail end of it, but the main pulse was set to arrive while we were still in transit. When I read the reports I was a little disappointed that we would be missing some of the action. As it turns out, in West Java you have to be careful what you wish for. Getting to Panaitan Island is a relatively simple affair; fly to Jakarta, get a ride down to the coast then steam overnight to the waves. When it comes to the boat you go on there are only two real options. The yacht Just Dreaming which has been converted to serve specifically as a surf charter vessel, or those referred to as ‘Feral’ boats - these local Indonesian
fishing vessels have found a side income in taking the intrepid out to the islands to seek waves. You have to be willing to rough it - really rough it –we’re talking no real facilities at all. Bring your own everything, or go without. We went with Just Dreaming. An experienced surf guide and crew, awesome chef, comfortable bunk and everything else you could want for just seemed a little more comfortable for ten nights at sea. When we reached the coast from the airport it was pretty late into the night. The crew greeted us and we loaded our gear onto the boat. Our surf guide, Ollie, was nowhere to be seen. Ollie had taken the opportunity to travel out ahead of the charter and
catch the peak of the swell before we arrived. The chance to surf One Palm Point in all its glory was simply something he could not miss. The overnight steam from mainland Java to Panaitan Island was smooth as far as Indonesian island crossings go. Our team all had a good night’s sleep and we woke in the morning as we were arriving at the famed One Palm Point. There were three people in the lineup when we arrived, Ollie and two others who had taken the feral boat option and their chances with the swell. They were all wearing full wetsuits, booties and helmets and it wasn’t because it was cold. The waves in this area will produce some of the best barrels
of your life - steaming freight trains with several sections to punch through and get spat out of. The only catch is, if you fall it’s pretty much a guaranteed trip across the reef - a sharp reef, with gnarly holes, just waiting to eat surfboards and skin. Around these parts, for every bit of pleasure, you can expect an equal part of pain. Ok, my last comment may be a little over the top. There are actually plenty of waves for the less kamikaze surfer. A break called ‘Pussies’ is just a short boat ride away. But seriously, are you going to ever live with yourself if you turn down the opportunity of getting pitted at one of the best, most hollow and least crowded waves on the planet to surf a break called Pussies? I didn’t think so.
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Get barelled or hike up a volcano... Sounds like fun to us.
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE I’ll let you in on a little secret: reef cuts and grazes are not that bad. Sure they sting a little at the time, they sting a lot when the chef rubs lime juice in them to halt any chance of infection and they get a little itchy a few days later. But, given the chance to claim your share of the glory, it seems well worth a little lost bark to the reef. So if you’re thinking of a trip to West Java, make sure you have your barrel-riding game sorted before you get there and be willing to step up and have a good go. My advice is come prepared. Pack that old steamer that’s full of holes and wear it when surfing the shallower reefs. You’ll need booties and make sure to bring a helmet. I didn’t see anyone get pitched over the falls during our trip, but if you do, the last thing you want is to hit your head, so pack that helmet and accept the fact that you’ll be surfing in it, whether you like it or not. The photos I got speak volumes more than I can write about this place. Have a close look and see for yourself what kind of waves this area has to offer - it’s the real deal, I promise you that. No one ever gets bored of getting barrelled. As long as the waves keep up in this part of the world,
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Photo: Joel Coleman. www.saltmotion.com
you’re sure to be keeping yourself busy picking off the best sets of the day. Crowds are not an issue here given the island is completely uninhabited and as I mentioned, there is only one charter boat and a handful of feral boats. If, however, the swell does back off, you can keep yourself entertained on some of the most pristine beaches I’ve seen in Indonesia, do a little trek through the jungle and look for some wildlife (in fact you don’t have to look too far - there are often deer and monkeys on the beach) or you can take a steam over to the very active volcano, Krakatoa. It was on the last day of our trip that the swell faded right back to two foot, there were still surfable options, but we all agreed that we could surf two foot waves at home and that a visit to an active volcano was something we would probably never do again. So we made the decision, weighed anchor and headed towards a mountain that rises out of the sea and, as recently as a few days earlier, had been launching basketball size rocks out its steaming crater. I asked myself on the way there, what could possibly go wrong? As it turned out we were able to, quite safely, hike to the first ridge of the volcano. Sure the hot ash underfoot got a little toasty, given we were only wearing thongs, and the thick clouds of volcanic ash took a toll on my camera gear, but other than that it was perfectly safe. Compared to some of the surfing we had done, it seemed safe anyway! Saltmotion and The Perfect Wave have formed a pretty solid partnership over the last two years. When Charlie who works at TPW rang me up and mentioned he had a last minute spot on the boat for this trip, I jumped at it. It’s no secret that if you want to be on the best boat in the best locations at the right time you need a man like Charlie in your corner – thanks for having me along for the ride mate. Joel Coleman. www.saltmotion.com And thanks to Joel for documenting such a cool trip to share with all of us. Check the video from this trip here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoLgHUKNqCg and for more on The Perfect wave, visit: www.theperfectwave.com.au 56
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COG36
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Jake Colreavy. Photo: Jack Dekort
lum son Coo a e r d nd o o g ny up a There’s a m o s cing stars... is produ f r u s g comin There’s quality, consistent point and beach breaks with relatively uncrowded waves catering for surfers of all levels! Combine this with a friendly, down-to-earth surf community and a local shopping village where everything is centrally located and you have the perfect holiday destination for surfing families, couples and groups. Here are your top choices for accommodation and more. Just make sure to tell them SMORGASBOARDER sent you! NEXT EVENTS: King of Coolum Thundercat boats, July 20-21 Coolum Junior Classic surf comp, August 10-11
COOLUM BEACH HOLIDAY PARK
THE SHOP FOODSTORE
COOLUM HOLIDAYS
Situated in a great patrolled surf beach location and close to shops and clubs catering for all camping options.
Open every day 5.30am (for your surf wax, combs, leg ropes!) through to 9.30pm.
EXECUTIVE ACCOMMODATION Managing over 25 executive beach homes and apartments from Twin Waters through to Coolum Beach, we have the perfect property to indulge all of your needs while on vacation. Each tastefully decorated with a high standard of facilities including pool, air conditioning, bbq and pay television. From $1300 a week, shorter stays available
There are 133 powered caravan sites each with concrete slab for your annex, 30 powered tent sites perched on top of the dunes with uninterrupted views out to the ocean, 71 unpowered tent sites and 6 modern villas in the park. Ph: 07 5446 1474 1827 David Low Way, Coolum Beach SUNSHINECOASTHOLIDAYPARKS.COM.AU
We sell all groceries, organic, gluten free, snack foods, gourmet treats, phone credit, internet access. THE SHOP has local knowledge, local products, and local staff, on the esplanade, opposite the surf club. We are the local one stop shop. PH: Ph: 0400301078 E: theshopcoolum@hotmail.com FACEBOOK.COM/THESHOPCOOLUM
PET-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATION Enjoy a stress free holiday knowing your pet is safe with you. We have 30 holiday homes that specialise in the right accommodation for you and your pooch. $110.00 non-refundable pet fee applies. From $490 a week shorter stays available. HOLIDAY APARTMENTS Great deals on one, two and three bedroom self contained apartments. We’ill help you find the perfect apartment to relax in. From $490 a week shorter stays available. PH: 1300 303 423 WWW.COOLUMHOLIDAYS.COM.AU
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They provide something for everyone whether it be lunch, dinner, pizza or coffee served out on the deck. We also offer members and visitors a great bar with an extensive wine list, TAB, Keno, 48 fantastic pokies, and live entertainment Friday and a DJ every Saturday night to help you dance the night away. Our member facilities are open from 10am daily until midnight on Friday and Saturday night and until 10pm all other nights. Coolum Surf Club is becoming well known for fantastic food with views to match.
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TRAVEL: ADVENTURE 60
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SUMBA. With its unique culture, remote location, rugged coastline and raw power, Sumba has remained off the beaten track for all but the most hardy of travelling surfers visiting Indonesia. It beckons those prepared to put in the hard yards in pursuit of adventure and classic empty line ups. WORDS: STUART HORSTMAN PHOTOS: HERI, CAPTAIN OF SRI NOA NOA
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ALTHOUGH you might remember Occy’s long left barrels in Jack McCoy’s classic video The Green Iguana, very few would know that at the same time this video was being shot, a group of Hawaiians were exploring the coastline further south aboard Sri Noa Noa. These adventurers were surfing another classic right-hander that until today remains out of the spotlight, rewarding those either in the know or just plain lucky, with epic Indo sessions. It’s now over two decades since the video was produced and Sri Noa Noa is still sailing the very same waters, carrying surfers seeking a unique experience to surf Sumba and the nearby islands.
This 50ft teak and ironwood schooner, built in 1975 by a French sailor and explorer, operates charters between Bali and Timor and at certain times of the year when conditions are right, relocates to Kupang, the starting point of the trip that travels west to Sumba, with the assistance of the southeast trades. There are waves on all the islands along the way and local knowledge is essential. Unlike many other charters that start and end in the same port, this trip heads in just one direction, from east to west. Backtracking as a result of a bad call is lost time. Fortunately with the aid of mobile surf forecasts and a Captain that has been on the boat for well over a decade, good waves are all but guaranteed. It’s the same with the fishing - Sailfish, Mackerel, GT’s and Tuna are regularly caught and always eaten fresh.
What’s unexpected is Sumba’s culture, distinguished by massive megalithic gravestones and large communal huts. It is speculated that the long distances to neighbouring islands (Flores is closest, approximately 50km away) and tremendous currents that pass between them kept contact with others to a minimum.
In fact, headhunting was still practiced up until the mid to late 20th century and the spearheads used in tribal battles on horseback are now blunted wood instead of sharpened steel. Sumba’s sense of timelessness and awe is not just confined to the land, as anyone who has surfed the right-hander mentioned above will testify. Early morning, big swell and the right tide produce a wave that is truly a spectacle to behold. Sitting in the bay surrounded by massive white cliffs, capped by dense jungle, the horizon
starts to rise signalling the approach of a set. Water starts drawing off the reef filling the wall of the first wave. Survival instincts kick in to paddle to the horizon. The first wave passes only to show the next wave, much bigger, already starting to barrel on the top of the inside wall. Mesmerised by two sixfoot barrels on top of each other, freight-training down the line, morphing into a single truck sized barrel, it’s time for battle. For more on Sumba, go to www.freelinesurf.com.au
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KARMA POLICE WORDS & PHOTOS: SIMON KETTLE
Like is attracted to like, and collectors must collect, so it was inevitable that on one of my many trips to the Sunshine Coast that I’d bump into John ‘Dicky’ Revell one way or another. Dicky has been a member of the Queensland Police Service for over 20 years, working between Maroochydore and Noosa Heads in various roles, which has enabled him to indulge his passion for surfing and surfboard collecting. Dicky’s surfing life started back in ‘79 at Palm Beach, Currumbin on the Gold Coast when his mum and dad bought an old caravan to ‘head down from Brissy each weekend and school holidays’. He started on a Hanimex foamy but his first ‘proper’ board was a second hand Country Style Angourie single fin which his mum and dad got him for Christmas from the old Honessee store at Miami. He was now officially ‘hooked’ on surfing and surfboards.
These days he’ll ride ‘anything that floats shortboards, longboards and a SUP. After all his years on the Sunny Coast, Noosa is still a magical place for Dicky to surf. He’s also discovered a couple of mystery spots and tells me ‘one is not far from home but you’d need a boat to get there’. Surfboard collecting has become an important part of Dicky’s life too, with a dedicated room to store the treasures he’s found, he looks after them like a curator in fine museum - a museum of surfboards. So, it’s a privilege for me to sit down and talk about the eclectic mix of family, surfing, surfboards and policing that Dicky fruitfully leads.
SURFBOARD COLLECTING WALKING ON THE MOON I inherited an appreciation of history from my dad and that, combined with my love of the sport, led me to start collecting boards. I just really enjoy looking at the different styles and designs and it’s kind of cool having a record of how things have evolved over the years.
“I LOVE THE HISTORY BEHIND THEM AND OFTEN WONDER WHAT STORIES THEY COULD TELL IF THEY COULD TALK.” John ‘Dicky’ Revell on collecting
It can be exciting too. You feel like Indiana Jones finding an old board that hasn’t seen the light of day for years and giving it a new home. It’s also really satisfying saving some of these old relics and giving them new life. JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST: COLLECTOR
MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE
SECRET JOURNEY
POLICE GAMES
No it’s not about the money, I just love having them around. I love the history behind them and often wonder what stories they could tell if they could talk. They’re also great conversation starters, as most people like talking about their favourite or first board. I get told all the time that I should ride them but I haven’t brought myself to be able to do it yet.
Oh there’s a few I’m still searching for like a Lopez Lightning Bolt, an original MP or a Greg Noll. An old Duke board would be unreal too, but that’s a pipedream.
The first games I competed in were in 1996. It has been held every two years since then but we did have a few years in the late 90’s where we were too slack and didn’t run it. The surf comps have been run here on the Sunshine Coast for the last eight years, held in conjunction with the QLD Police Games. It’s a great excuse for surfers to come together, surf in all different sorts of categories, maybe get a medal and do some socialising at the end of the day! We get competitors from all over the state - Western Queensland included - and we have a lot of fun just like at any event where surfers get together. It’s really well organised and we get support from one of the local boardriders clubs as well.
EVERY LITTLE THING SHE DOES IS MAGIC The very first longboard I collected was located under the old Tewantin Police station, which we were using as our office for the Dog Squad at the time. I found it in 1994 and my boss told me he had no idea where it came from but it was there when he moved there 10 years earlier. It was covered in grey house paint and two inches of dust when I pulled it out. I couldn’t find an owner for it so my late friend John Vinson cleaned it up at his factory at Coolum. It’s got a Cord decal on it but you can tell that it’s not the original brand, so I call it my ‘mystery board’. It looks pretty ordinary and I reckon it has a questionable history, but it rides like a champion! SYNCHRONICITY II I try not to let my collecting surfboards bother my family too much. I’ve only got two in the lounge room that my young fella likes to use as targets for his Nerf guns. I was lucky enough to be able to build a room in under my house for most of them. My kids do give me a hard time saying I like old wooden stuff but apart from that I think everyone is okay with it.
A friend told me a great story a few years ago on that subject. He was at a swap meet in Toowoomba and a guy had an old solid timber board there that he wanted $800 for. He rang his dad who is a bit of a surfing legend here on the coast and was told “tell him he’s dreaming – too much.” We later heard that it was an original board from the 1940’s, which was brought to Australia from the Pacific Islands by US servicemen around the end of World War II and was valued in the tens of thousands. The one that got away...
SURFING AND BEING A POLICE OFFICER Yeah, I can see how some people would think that being a police officer and a surfer is a contradiction, but the guys from work who surf are the same as anyone else in the water. We’re just there to have a good time, we have a genuine love for the sport and like most people, we’re out there to unwind and forget about work. The police is a pretty big organisation now, and like any big company it takes all sorts. There are people that ride mountain bikes, go to the gym, play footy or collect comic books. Most of the guys recognise that it’s healthy to have a passion and do whatever makes you happy.
CAUGHT IN THE ACT I love how being in the water takes you away from work and lets you have fun with your mates and talk crap like most people do. A lot of people do know what I do and it has from time to time led me to meet people who have fractured the occasional law (to borrow a line from Eddie Murphy) or to give me a quiet tip about someone who has. It can be tricky when you get into this sort of situation but being a policeman is my job and my parents taught me to ‘always try and do the right thing’. Besides finding the occasional crook, I’ve found one of the best parts of my job has been having the opportunity to help people over the years, which has been a real buzz.
DE DO DO DO, DE DA DA DA I always let people know I’m interested in old boards, word of mouth has been kind a couple of times. And never drive past garage sales. I also like to collect old ‘60s skateboards, especially the wooden ones with the metal wheels. Cool.
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LINE UP THE SUSPECTS... Dicky talks us through some of his favourites from his collection, left to right. BILL WALLACE 9 ‘ OKANUI I went and visited Bill and got him to make me this one in 2010. I’d heard on the grapevine that he was getting close to retiring so I saved my pennies and was lucky enough to get one before he hung up his nailbag. It was great to meet him, he’s a real gentleman but a funny bugger as well! GRAEME MERRIN 7’5” STRINGERLESS This was an unloved and unwanted board that was left behind at a house I moved into at Caloundra. It’s had a resto as it was in a bad way. HAYDEN 4’10” SPOON I bought this sight-unseen from the Trading Post about 15 years ago. It was on the Gold Coast so I got onto a mate to pick it up for me. My mate Tony Dragan did an amazing job of restoring it as the nose was badly damaged and the deck and bottom needed a lot of work. MCTAVISH 6’6” BLUEBIRD An Ebay purchase from a really nice guy in northern NSW last year. I drove down one weekend to pick it up and we talked for ages. I recently took this board down to the McTavish factory and met the man himself. Bob told me it was a ’73. The board is missing a fin so they hooked me up with ‘Wiz’, who made the original fins for these boards and is still working for Bob today. He’s doing me up a fin off the original template to help make it original as possible when I get it restored. What a great bunch of guys! BARRY BENNETT 9’ LONGBOARD When I was at work one day I had to go and visit an old farmer out in the hinterland who was having some troubles on his property. As we were walking down to the back of his paddock I spotted this old board under a tarp and leaning up against an old rusty car. After making a discrete inquiry he told me his grand kids used to ride it in the dam but no longer were interested and did I want it? I couldn’t stuff it in the car quick enough! Once again it was a real mess. It had no fin, the nose and tail blocks were gone and the 2 inch balsa stinger was that badly rotted in places you could see through it! Another visit to Tony saw an unbelievable transformation of a board that was seriously trashed to this beautiful piece. CORD 9’4” LONGBOARD This is my ‘mystery board’. I found it under my office in 1994. It’s the only one I’ve ridden. I’m scared to take most of them in the water as knowing my luck some boofhead will run me over and it would break my heart to damage any of them! JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: SHAPERS
MITCHELL RAE’S
With this edition being dedicated to “those with an adventurous spirit”, there is possibly no better person to talk to about the perfect stick for your next surfing odyssey than Mitchell Rae. His Outer Island surfboards have ended up in many corners of the surfing world with a great deal of Mitchell’s clientele being travelling surfers undertaking their annual pilgrimage to their favourite surfing paradise. WORDS: DAVE SWAN PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MITCHELL RAE
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OUTER ISLAND surfboards have definitely lived up to their name. You may find yourself surfing some out-of-the-way, remote break and there they will be…. the spirit eyes, the eyes that adorn every one of Mitchell’s creations. Before anything else, we asked Mitchell about the eyes.
“The inspiration came from when I first started venturing to Bali in 1972. I saw eyes on the bows of local fishing boats. They were there to ward off evil spirits , protect the mariners and bring the boats to life. I liked the concept and started using them extensively towards the nose of my boards.”
“They take your board out of the realm of foam and fibreglass. They encapsulate the quest for a higher level of surfing experience. The spirit eyes bring the boards to life.”
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GEAR: SHAPERS 1978 Flextails
MITCHELL RAE’S QUEST FOR FLEX OUTER ISLAND were, and still are, one of the foremost pioneers of the flexible surfboard. Through the course of time, Mitchell has undeniably become one of the legends of the surfboard industry. It all began for Mitchell in his town of Dee Why. He shaped his first surfboard in a mate’s shed when he was about twelve years of age, riding it into the finals of the first School Boys Surf Comp with Mark Richards and Steve Cooney.
down to reduce drag. Sea birds will extend their wings to soar, tuck them in to dive, extend them to perform a high-speed turn. Why shouldn’t a surfboard do the same? Flex is the simplest way to give an inanimate object life.
wing design and water craft. Modern planes all have variable wing foils and adjustable control surfaces, altering the shape at take off and once in the air. They mechanically change their shape whilst in motion.
It was upon meeting George Greenough though in the late sixties that changed Mitchell’s perspective on surfboard design from that point forward. “Living creatures change their shape and body position to perform different tasks”, Mitchell explains. “Fish change the shape of their fins in motion, altering aspect and shape while hunting prey, extending fins to change direction at high speed, flattening them
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Using flex you can get a whole range of drivelines, from short and vertical, to long and extended acceleration drives. There are many parallels between aircraft
“I was fortunate to surf with George Greenough at Lennox in the late ‘60s and early ‘70s. That was when he was fully immersed in his Spoon concepts. It was
amazing to watch what he could do on his flexible kneeboards and from that point on I thought to myself, I have to devise a way to get that happening in my surfboards. “We were all riding longer, rigid boards whereas George’s boards were alive. By virtue of the amount of flex in his boards, they would warp and conform to the contours of the wave, driving in and out of spaces that were inaccessible to us at the time, while generating incredible speed.” George was prepared to sacrifice a great deal of buoyancy to achieve the flex he was after. Mitchell even recalled one day George bringing down one his boards to the beach and when he sat it in the water, it sunk to about two inches below the surface. Using flippers was the only way to catch waves on the spoons. Being kneeboards, they also had a different dynamic of leverage and geometry to standing up.
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Early through to modern... Mitchell and Flextails. Photo: Dick Hoole
“George had a great deal of flexible area in his boards beyond just the easily identified central area and tail. The outer perimeter of his Spoon for example, which is like a wishbone in shape, also had certain flex properties. The rail section contained a loading and unloading aspect like a leaf spring in a car.
However, as much as Mitchell was inspired and influenced by George’s Spoons, it was here their pursuit of flex diverged. For one, George favoured hull-shaped boards. Mitchell’s were quite the opposite. The OUTER ISLAND
“The difference was, I still wanted to be able to paddle and catch waves. I didn’t want to sacrifice too much paddling power, so I initially started off using flexible tails borrowing George’s construction technique.
“That was really the key issue that determined how far up the board I could bring the flextail. So I brought the flex forward by about 8-10 inches right up to the back edge of the single fin, and half way along the fin base, using a cut away/ undercut in the fin base to gain more flex.
“Many of George innovations and insights come from his background as a professional fisherman and his observation and deep understanding of natural shapes and forms. “Many of us - the Wilderness crew at Angourie including Chris Brock, Gary Keyes, Baddy, Bob McTavish, Rob Conneely, Ted Spencer, to name but a few - experimented with short hullshaped boards, getting benefit from the shortness but failing to achieve the acceleration the Spoons were generating. Brocky and Gary achieved some success with their designs using a suspended deck platform over a flexible tail section.”
Through the early ‘70s Mitchell experimented with bringing the flextail further forward - even up into the rail section - bringing it as far forward as he could. But there was a distinct trade-off between flex and buoyancy in these early ‘70s designs. The more foam removed to create flex, the less paddle power.
team at the time was pioneering deep, single concave surfboards with hard rails. Where George had curve, Mitchell had straight lines, and vice versa.
My original flextail designs used a blade-like flexible fiberglass tail section, sacrificing only a marginal amount of buoyancy.”
“I did play with bringing the flex up into the rail area but found it was getting so narrow that I was gaining very little flex from that region. What it did deliver was more rail penetration and a more refined feeling in terms of how the rail entered the water. Once up and planning, the reduced buoyancy was no issue.”
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GEAR: SHAPERS Mitch on Flexi-time, Asu Island. Photo courtesy of Mitchell Rae
WHAT FLEX DELIVERS Before we move on, it’s important at this stage to note what Mitchell was attempting to achieve with his flexible surfboard designs.
and vee. You can only surf what is possible with that fixed set of curves. Those are the parameters, or limitations of the design.
“Variable curve means the curve bends under pressure. When you turn with a flextail, the harder you press, the more the tail flexes.
“Most surfboards have an amount of flex, but it’s just not necessarily in the right place”, he explains. “I’m looking to control the flex and put it where it belongs.
“To me there are two distinct aspects I felt were integral to flex design - variable curve and reflex, or ‘spring back’. Flexible forms change shape whilst in motion, melding to the shape of the wave, then releasing to generate propulsion and drive.
“This lets you perform a tighter arc, because it’s curving into the face of the wave. Tail curve can be reduced, as it comes back in during the turn. This gives faster planning, less drag and more speed.
“A standard surfboard is based on a set of curves that remain constant, such as rocker, concave
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“Variable curve enables the surfer to change the formula while riding
a wave. It opens up options with regards to what you can do. “What is equally important is the reflex as you come out of that turn, which is what generates the propulsion, drive and acceleration in a flextail surfboard. The reflex is gold. The tail flexes as you apply power, stores that energy and then releases it like an arrow from a bow. Like a diver on a spring board, you are propelled out of the turn.”
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THE RIGHT TYPE OF FLEX Mitchell’s designs are focused towards generating flex towards the board’s tail. “For me a board has a rigid entry and a flexible exit. Stringerless boards have an uncontrolled flex pattern, and will belly out in the middle, flap and wobble in the front and twist, which is exactly what you don’t want it to do. To have flex anywhere bar the exit of the board is counterproductive.
It slows you down and lessons control. Stringers by and large are about putting some rigidity into the shape. In many of those ‘70s boards I used thick (12mm-25mm) cedar stringers to lend rigidity and longevity. “I’m not the only person working on flex. There are many approaches to achieving flex. There was a mechanical spring-loaded design used for a while in sailboards - the
Tinkler Tail. Al Merrick was even quoted as saying that flex is the next underexplored design area. “Some people run carbon fibre strips down the centre of the board, stopping it just prior to the tail to stiffen the entry and allow tail flex. Good thinking, but in my opinion the carbon doesn’t achieve much when run as a strip on the flat. Cosmetically it looks great and it has a certain degree
of effect, but nowhere near what we are achieving. For the dynamic they are chasing, it’s just throwing exotic materials in the wrong place on the board. “Curved rail stringers known as ‘parabolics’ are another approach to control the flex pattern. They tend to allow too much twist right through the board, washing off speed and have not been embraced by designers at large.”
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program produced carbon fibres. I introduced these to my designs in the ‘90s using woven carbon fibre rails to control the flex pattern with a thinner stringer and I brought carbon into the Flextail. In theory, you need to use high-end resins with carbon, as polyesters will fail under extreme load, so I use crosslinked vinyl resins in the flexible composite components. These designs worked well and have been popularised in Fibre Flex and epoxystyro boards today.”
stringers in the blank because they weren’t tooled up for it - it was too hard to make. As a consequence, I put it on the backburner until about seven or eight years ago. Once I talked one of the blank manufacturers into doing them for me, it opened the floodgates. For over five years now, 95% of our boards are built this way. “The V2 produces a great deal of flex between your fleet as opposed to my earlier flextail designs that require a degree of back foot pressure to access the overdrive. The sweet spot has been brought forward considerably and as a consequence you can jump to your feet and access all the flex aspects of the board more easily. Bringing the flex way forward has been another quantum leap.
PROGRESS INTO V2 FLEX In the mid 90’s Mitchell had what he describes as another “lightbulb moment”.
Mitchell and Isaac
HOW BOOGIE BOARDS AND THE THRUSTER PLAYED A ROLE IN FLEXTAIL DEVELOPMENT For those of us who aren’t ardent history buffs and like to get some context of time, Tom Morey designed the Morey Boogie Board on July 7, 1971. Simon Anderson was later credited with the 1980 invention of the thruster. Mitchell made significant progress with his flextail designs with the advent of the Boogie Board and the subsequent introduction of the thruster. “When we moved into the age of the thruster that altered the dynamic considerably. Single fins necessitated narrow tails. Thrusters meant wider tails could be used because more fins were controlling it. This worked to my advantage. We could increase the amount of flexible area as a result of the broader tail and thus deliver greater drive and propulsion from the flextail.
increasing the torque as it flexes, twists and releases. The broader tails increase the reflex response coming out of the board, well suited to 4-fin designs.” The Boogie Board revolution introduced a whole new generation of materials that also worked in Mitchell’s favour compensating for the loss of buoyancy due to the now larger flexible tail area. “My approach to a flexible board is that I shape it as a normal board to start with. I half build the board then remove 10-15% of the tail volume, sculpting out the unwanted foam, then I restore it to its original volume and buoyancy with soft, flexible Boogie Board material that I bond into the construction and shape accordingly.
“This greater surface area increases the drive and reflex, like using a bigger flipper... More working surface, more power.
“That for me was a real breakthrough - being able to restore the original foil I started with by putting in a different type of material. It was a quantum leap in terms of what I could do with flexible boards.”
“The broader tails also twist laterally as well as lengthways,
“I’m always on the prowl for better structural materials. The space
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“I had an idea to put two stringers in the board in an inverted vee shape coming down from the nose and exiting the rail forward of the fins. It allowed the tail to flex using the natural flex properties of the blank. Through the tail section I then pulled the rail volume down nice and fine to bring the foil out until they were quite bladey. There were a couple of reasons I did this. Firstly, it allows a lot more flex because it is thinner. Secondly, because you have a lot of inherent speed with this design, you don’t need a lot of tail thickness. “I did some prototype work and they worked extremely well. My main aim once again was to control the rigidity through the entry of the board and place the flex in the tail, where I wanted it. “I took one of the first boards up to Japan and got some epic typhoon waves on them and was stoked with the performance. It is a subtle type of flex akin to a stringerless surfboard but without the belly flex. With someone of 80kg riding the board and driving it really hard, there’s around ½ to ¾ of an inch of flex in the tail. “My problem at the time was none of the blank manufacturers wanted to entertain putting two inverted
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“When I first introduce customers to flex I usually try to start with a V2 Flex board because it is a relatively inexpensive build compared to the carbon fibre flextail and a great introduction to flex. For me, I prefer the organic stiffness of the timber in this section of the board over carbon flex rails. “The next level is to combine the V2 Flex with a carbon fibre flextail. These boards have the sweet spot way forward between your feet and the carbon fibre flextail acts like an overdrive - a big accelerator pedal under your back foot. I call these top-end, technology-driven designs the Zen Blade.” Nowadays OUTER ISLAND glue all their own blanks, giving them absolute control over rocker, stringer placement and the board’s subsequent flex pattern, which Mitchell firmly believes is key to modern board design.
KINETIC CONSTRUCTION Following the introduction of Boogie Board material, Mitchell started to construct his flextails with carbon fibre and cross-linked resins with ribs to fine-tune the flex pattern of the tail. In effect, each flextail became precision built to match the body weight of the rider and the power of the waves they intended to surf. “We substantially advanced the technology employed in the construction of our boards. The flex properties of the carbon as opposed to fiberglass were far superior due to it being a more tensile material and it better handled the type of flex we were after. My tails will flex from an inch to two inches in a full turn.” “We’ve also introduced another aspect to our overall flex program that we call ‘Kinetic Construction’. We incorporate a carbon or Texalium woven cloth panel behind the V2 stringers using the properties of those materials to control the flex pattern, dialing it in to increase the reflex - the ‘pop’ out of turns.” Indeed Mitchell regularly looks towards the aeronautical industry
and high-end boat design, industries with massive research and development budgets, for the latest innovative materials. “We are using several different kinds of carbon fibre in the composite Flextail laminations.” However, materials are but one aspect of the construction process. How the boards are laminated further adds to their strength and flex. “The traditional way to laminate a board is for the fiberglass to come off the roll with the weft and warp (different directions of thread) running north to south. What this means is the weft actually runs across the board, encouraging snap, particularly with the modern approach to board building where very narrow laps are used. “We apply the fibreglass under tension like a drum skin, pulling the weft fibres to a 20° angle towards the rails, in opposing directions on each side, creating a matrix of diagonal fibres. We then use slow cure resin mixes, which are inherently stronger, to get full cell penetration into the cloth. Wider overlaps heighten the rigidity of the board, making it far stronger and more snap resistant. “All these things combined have a great influence on the strength of our boards and its overall flex properties. There is no added weight. We are just using the materials to their maximum potential. It is also why our boards have proven more than popular with travelling surfers. When you have invested time and money into your surf trip to paradise, you want to be confident you won’t suffer equipment failure. “But these construction methods are not well suited to today’s age of mass production, which is why we only produce a small number of boards. And it is one of the reasons why, in my opinion, flex has never become popularised. It is too labour intensive, too hard and too expensive to build. It is a complex build that increases the amount of time it takes to build a board. We can build three regular boards in the time it takes me to build one of these.”
LENGTH As Mitchell explains it, flex works right through the entire board range from fish to guns and longboards. The variable curve aspect makes longboards more manageable despite their size as you are able to perform much tighter arcs. With flex, boards ride smaller than what they measure, carving tighter arcs off the variable curve. “If you were looking for a step up board for Indo, surfing waves in the 4-8 ft range, you would probably put a couple of inches on that board and it would still ride super tight in the pocket and perform ridiculously tight arcs. Flex comes into into its own in waves with some power. Having said that, the flextails work just as well in small waves, providing they have some shape and run. In gutless mush, flexible boards don’t have any great advantage over standard boards.”
WAVE SIZE When it comes to big waves, Mitchell believes there are no limitations to riding a flextail. “In my opinion, when you get into seriously powerful waves, flex offers many advantages. “In a late take off, the tail bends into the wave under back foot pressure giving greater control. The flexible tail also allows the board to set a rail earlier once on the face, where solid boards need to settle before you hit the gas. Big guns will turn like a shorter board with the variable curve.”
TAIL SHAPES “All the different tail shapes work well with flex. The classics in design remain constant. Some have advantages over others in certain situations as they do with normal boards. “Flextails bend into the wave, holding their line without breaking traction. It’s not dissimilar to a Formula 1 car on a racetrack, if it loses traction it goes sideways, washing off speed and losing control. The Kinetic Construction
is like adding a ‘sports pack’ to the suspension and the steering of a highly tuned car. “One of my favourite boards however for 4-8 ft Indo - what I refer to as “perfect surf”- is a swallow flextail, because you have a broader surface area working for you like a dolphin’s tail. It not only flexes lengthways but in a controlled manner simultaneously twists with the wave face to deliver three-dimensional torque. “The rear fin(s) form an integral part of the flex... I’ve been hooked on quads for several years now. Coupled with a fin design I’ve been refining for several years, based on aircraft wing technology (SwitchBlade Fins) they integrate seamlessly, flexing in unison with the tail.”
THE ONGOING PURSUIT OF FLEX Incorporating flex into surfboard design in some form is something most surfers are familiar with. However if we were to delve into who amongst us has an intricate understanding of the construction methods employed to attain flex and what can truly be achieved with each approach, this number would possibly drop quite considerably. As evidenced by our chat with Mitchell, there is a real science to its application. His quest for flex and some 42 years shaping flexible boards has meant he has discovered so much along the way in terms of what works and what doesn’t. With that said, Mitchell is still as committed to his research and development program today as when he first met George. Mitchell is constantly looking to improve the flex aspect of his boards. “To me it is like chalk and cheese. Compared to riding one of our Zen Blade flextails, which are alive, you jump back on a regular board and it just feels dead in the water. “The magic sled is not a product of a single design feature but a combination of all its design elements in harmony and balance.” www.outerislandsurfboards.com JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
FREE SHIPPING!*
From 5’9” - 6’1”
THE 4X5 COMBO
6’3” x 19 ½” x 2 ¼”
5’11” x 2 3/16“ x 18 ½”
100 BEER DREER
ROUNDED PIN
SQUASH TAIL
by Ian Byrne
Leighton Clark | CLARK SURFBOARDS
Channel bottom combined with a shorter, wider highperformance board. 5-fins a must for variety. Works in any conditions, from 2-6ft+.
Great for the Mid ‘n Victor after a few too many Pale Ales! Suits people that surf and manage 100 Pale Ales a month.
CONSTRUCTION
3 OR 5
By Neil Walsh
By Neil Walsh
Single to double concave with a wave range anywhere betten three to eight feet.
Single to double concave with a wave range anywhere between two and six feet.
CONSTRUCTION
CONSTRUCTION
X3
Burford PU blank 4 x 4oz deck and 4oz bottom. FCS fins.
Gloss or matt finish. Thruster and 5-fin option. We can do custom artwork or digital graphics.
Double 4oz on the deck, single 4oz on the bottom, carbon inlays with a sanded finish.
SHAPER COMMENT
SHAPER COMMENT
SHAPER COMMENT
CONSTRUCTION
X5
Quick off the mark, higher top end speed with the maneuverability of a performance shortboard.
Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au Join us on Facebook Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads
*FREE SHIPPING! Australia-wide on
all Mt Woodgee stock boards up to 6’8! (Excludes Movement and clearance boards)
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6’ x 20 ¼” x 2 3/8”
WE LISTEN, WE TALK and WE CREATE a board to suit your requirements. Custom boards are our speciality. Love to hear about what you are riding, and what you want to ride.
CLARK SURFBOARDS NOW IN A NEW LOCATION Units 7 and 8, 9 Chapman Road Hackham SA 5163 E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au M: 0422 443 789 Available at www.onboardsurf.com.au
This board is better suited to bigger waves above the five foot range, and suited to your intermediate to experienced surfer.
X3
Double 4oz on the deck, single 4oz on the bottom, carbon fibre inlay on the tail, sanded finish.
SHAPER COMMENT
This is a high performance board, better suited to experienced surfers.
NATIVE HABITAT SURFBOARDS
Neil Walsh | Cunjurong Point, NSW | 0407 499 872
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
r ee you nt to s a w u ? o Do y online esigned board d
ANYTHING YOU IMAGINE
From 5’6” to 6’4”
CUSTOM DESIGNS
LED SURFBOARDS
BY GERAGHTYSHAPES.COM
EXPERIENCE EVERY PART OF THE DESIGN PROCESS ONLINE AND UNDERSTAND YOUR SURFBOARD BETTER. Let me walk you through the design process via Skype. You get to be involved in every part of your board’s design - from planshape right through to the decals, all without leaving your home. By understanding your board’s performance, through this process, you can become a better and smarter surfer.
GERAGHTY SHAPES
Dean: 0422 442 044 E: info@geraghtyshapes.com www.geraghtyshapes.com
by Mike Bilton
Low entry rocker, double concave with a late kick in the tail. Fast and agile with good release.
CONSTRUCTION
UP IN LIGHTS
THESE COOL BOARDS ARE BOUND TO BRIGHTEN UP ANY SESSION
3 OR 5
4oz x 4oz deck, 4oz bottom packed with a rechargeable lithium battery, LED lights with remote changing colours.
SHAPER COMMENT
We have a large range of models, all hand-shaped - with and without lights, we love to do customs and experiment with new materials. Retro, performance or epoxy, we’ve got you covered.
PH: (07) 5607 0211 M: 0431 042 507 Unit 2/8 Ramly drive Burleigh Heads QLD 4220 mike@biltonsurf.com www.biltonsurf.com
Colours? As many as you want
Above, surfer Coby Perkovich lights up the night sky with a standout Bilton LED board. These LEDS run off a rechargable lithium battery and they’re completely waterproof. The lights can be wired into any new board, in almost any shape. A remote allows you to select from 20-odd colours, or just let the board flash through an automatic program to change colours while you ride. You could even dump the bedside lamp and read by the light of your surfboard. Bright idea, we say.
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
From 8’ to 10’
8’6” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾”
9’1” x 23” x 3”
5’7” x 22 ½” x 2 ½”
PETE’S ELEPHANT GUN by Peter Sheely
EL PRESIDENTE
THE LUMBERJACK
‘70s LOVE CHILD
Available from 8’ - 10’ long, 20” - 22 ½” wide and 2 ¾” - 3 ¼” thick, this big wave gun suits experienced surfers... Or someone who wants to hang it on a wall and just do some serious dreaming!
CONSTRUCTION
1 OR 3
Custom made with a choice of stringers, colours, tints, pigment and sprays. Finished with a heavy glass job for maximum strength.
SHAPER COMMENT
A serious big wave surfboard or collector’s item waiting for the perfect wave.
by Jesse Watson
SHAPER COMMENT
Perfect for anyone who don’t feel comfortable on a super heavy big ol’ b*tch. Instant local status guaranteed so you can mow down kooks with impunity - and anyone else who dares get in your way - now that you can catch anything you want.
CONSTRUCTION
X1
Single fin, 6/4oz deck 6/4oz bottom with a tangerine tint, resin panels and a full glossand-polish finish.
By Dan Bekis
The Lumberjack has a hulled bottom with a slight single concave in the nose, pinched 50/50 rails and a flat deck.
CONSTRUCTION
X1
PU foam with 8oz tinted Volan glass and custom fabric inlays. Choose from a single 12” fin box or glassed on fin.
SHAPER COMMENT
Inspired by the logs of the ‘60s, this board is for nose riding when it’s half a foot to head-high.
By Dan Bekis
The ‘70s Love Child is a single fin shortboard with a single concave bottom and single flyers that run into a pintail. The wider nose area helps with paddling and a flat rocker helps to maintain speed.
CONSTRUCTION
X1
PU foam with 4oz bottom and 2 x 4oz top, with custom fabric inlays and pinlines. Choose from a single 10” fin box or glassed on single fin.
SHAPER COMMENT
This is a born-again single fin with the outline of a seventies board, but a few modern-day improvements. PETER SHEELY SURFBOARDS Ph: 02 4957 3161 M: 0417 264 739 peter@sheelysurfboards.com sheelysurfboards.com 76
BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS Ph: 0410 419 791
blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au blackapachesurfboards.com.au
DJB SURFBOARDS 1/1 Mitchell Rd Brookvale NSW Ph: 0417 674 257 www.djbsurfboards.com.au
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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7’6” x 22” x 3”
7’8” x 22 ¼” x 2 7/8”
SINGLE FIN
VARENKA’S
by Mark Rabbidge
by Rory Oke
An all-round, easy-riding cruiser of a board.
CONSTRUCTION
X1
Made here in Ulladulla. Resin tints or paint. Choice of box or glass-on fin.
SHAPER COMMENT
A balanced, curvy outline with a flat bottom down the centre and pinched rails throughout, creating a vee off the tail.
CONSTRUCTION
E S P JOHN SCHMIDENBERG Underground legend ROLE. Current Australian Champion BOARDS. Peabodys 6’1 and 6’4
X1
Ocean Foam blank, 6oz polished bottom, wetrub deck and a single box fin.
Fun... Lots of fun.
SHAPER COMMENT
RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 M: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW markrabbidge.com Email: sales@markrabbidge.com
OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 www.okesurfboards.com
Super fast and super smooth.
www.espsurfshop.com.au www.edsinnott.com.au ED. 0404 059 321
ESP - and John - use GASfins
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: SHAPERS
WHY BECOME “WHEN WE REALISE THAT CREATING SOMETHING USING OUR OWN HANDS MAKES US HAPPY, TIME FLIES.”
Mark and Michele with some of their handiwork. 78
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ECOME A SHAPER? WORDS: Michele Vallenari
It’s a hard question to answer, so I will just have to tell you of my experience.
because I would be up all night thinking about how to solve some of the problems I had faced. I realised all I needed was good advice and a lot more practice!
I come from Italy where surfing is not a very popular sport. Indeed Italy is not known for waves. Occasionally though, when the conditions are right, you can get it pretty good, although my hometown is closer to a lake than any surf. So I used to snowboard in the mountains all year round. I became familiar with boards and their function and developed a real passion for them.
I learnt how important it is to set up your work place. To ensure you have good lighting, strong stools to support your boards and even how important it is to have a space to store your tools.
The first board I shaped was a snowboard. I really enjoyed working with my hands and I also discovered a quality about myself that I did not know I had, patience! I decided to come to Australia, which I knew to have good surf and great shapers. I saw it as an opportunity to learn everything I could about surfboards. I arrived here about two years ago. After three hard months looking for this type of experience, I eventually met Mark Riley who became my boss. Mark provided me with the opportunity to follow my dream! My first attempt working in this field was glassing surfboards and making fins. In the beginning it was very difficult and sometimes frustrating. It was all new to me but I was determined to learn and improve. I started watching videos of guys glassing boards. I also visited a shaper and glasser from Wollongong named Carl who was very helpful and gave me some great tips. My first few boards didn’t turn out too good. I became angry with myself to the point where sometimes I could not sleep
I shaped some boards over the last few months where I was very happy with the process and the outcome. The satisfaction you get when you ride a board you built is unreal. What an amazing thing it is when you bring an idea to reality! To be a shaper, you of course need to be a surfer, so you can understand why each detail of the board is built that way. I love surfing, so I am more than happy to dedicate the time to enhance my understanding. There are so many different skills required to shape a board from deciding on the rocker you want, drawing the template and cutting the plan shape, that’s before you even begin shaping, glassing, sanding and polishing the board. Shaping is an art, some days I feel in the mood to shape boards more than other days. I hear that when shaping becomes a job it can became boring but thankfully that’s not my case at the moment and I hope it stays like that. The down side of this amazing job would be how difficult it is to make a living crafting surfboards, especially because the majority of boards today come from overseas where the labour is very cheap and consequently the boards are too! I’m sure we can work out this matter and one day, people will understand and appreciate all the hard work that goes into
making a quality, hand-made surfboard.
In the last two years I have had the opportunity to be involved in exhibitions such as the Wanda and Currumbin Alley Fish Frys. I got to see how many people are becoming more and more interested in quality custom boards. If we are going to continue to participate in this amazing act that is ‘surfing’, where we get to take on natures finest, I would like to think we need a genuine board that is made with passion instead of a mass-produced factory product where workers are only there for the pay. So this is my experience as a young shaper and I hope to keep going with this job in some way. If you don’t understand what all the passion and hype is about with shaping surfboards, then there is no better thing than to try to shape some boards yourself. You may catch on to the same stoke. And if shaping doesn’t interest you, go grab a board from your local shaper. There is no doubt you will be supporting his stoke and the local industry. If you are keen to build a board you can find helpful tips on the web or just get talking to those that have already shaped before. You will find most people are only too happy to share their knowledge with someone who is keen to learn. So there is some insight as to why I started shaping surfboards. Maybe you will start thinking about making a board too… and then another one... And someday someone will call you a ‘shaper’. Good luck all and remember, enjoy the time making your first board. JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
6’3’’x 20 ¾’’x 13 ½’’x 14’’x 2 5/8”
5’4’’ x 19 7/8” x 2 ¼’’
V2 FLEX FISH
‘90S-STYLE THRUSTER
By Mitchell Rae
by Jordie Brown
THE CHESTNUT by Dave Porter | TREEHOUSE
by Graham Carse
Classic modern fish as a twin fin or quad. The board above is 6’8 x 21 ¼” x 2 ¾”
Based on ‘90s-style thrusters with low rocker and plenty of volume, this is for anything from three foot to six foot peelers and suits the surfer looking for a versatile alternative to your standard thruster shortboard.
As wholesome as you can get. Slightly nutty flavour.
A squashtail, single-intodouble concave thruster. Designed for 2-6’ waves, this is a high performance board. It’s super responsive and fast.
CONSTRUCTION
2 OR 4
PU foam with V2 Flex x 2 stringers. 5oz bottom and 5 x 4 oz deck with a gloss coat or wet rub and Texalium Kinetic Construction flex control panels.Twin vee/single concave with FCS or Futures. Custom handshaped.
SHAPER COMMENT
Fast, flex, fun, total control
CONSTRUCTION
X3
Light 6oz/4oz trimmed lap glass-job, lime green resin tint, a full gloss coat with wetrubbed finish and a handmade glass-on thruster fin setup.
SHAPER COMMENT
This style of stick works great as a bigger or smaller board! OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW Ph: 02 6655 7007 info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com outerisland.blogspot.com www.surfasymetrical.com 80
6’0” x 18 ¾” x 2 ¼”
Any size / Custom
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, Vic 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392 E: hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com www.hightidesurfboards.com
CONSTRUCTION
X4
Lightweight stringerless EPS foam blank. Locally-sourced Hoop Pine deck laminate, Durable epoxy resin, ‘S’ glass and Futures quads.
SHAPER COMMENT
The Chestnut suits a casual style and smooth approach in medium size surf. Our unique construction results in a board that is lighter, stronger and flexes more evenly.
TREEHOUSE HANDSHAPES Ph: 0415 925 739
E: dave@treehousehandshapes.com
treehousehandshapes.com
THE QB II
CONSTRUCTION
100% Handshaped!
X3
SHAPER COMMENT
This is an excellent performance board... For the experienced surfers out there who think they can hack it. Come in for a yarn about the next addition to your quiver.
QUARRY BEACH SURFBOARDS
75 David St, Caversham, Dunedin NZ
Ph: +64 3 455 7414 M: +64 27 518 8678 www.qbsurfboards.com
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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KELLY NORRIS
Photo by Smico
E C N A M R O F R S E E I P R H O HIG S & ACCESS . FIN SHAPERS.. CALL US! NALLY.
TERNATIO
LIA AND IN
AUSTRA COAST OF
price tag. ithout the w e c n a rm o om RD ty and perf SURFBOA @gmail.c s n rself. Quali u fi o USED BY s y a LY s D g n U fi O • S R P 524 h to try GA 0417 980 Get in touc TURERS MANUFAC
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THE EAST
30/06/13 9:01 PM
GEAR: SHAPERS
BRANCHING OUT Over a short few years, Andrew Wells of Grown Surfboards has made quite the name for himself with his hollow timber construction surfboards and rightly so - they are surfable works of art. We caught up with him recently to see what else he has been up to of late. WE HAVE NOTICED YOU VENTURING OUT ON A FEW DIFFERENT ANGLES. WOULD YOU MIND TELLING US ABOUT YOUR NEW FORAY INTO BOARDS IN THE RAW? Yeah, I have been trialling a few different things lately. Grant Newby showed me a couple of the boards he had been making using EPS foam cores with timber skins and no fibreglass. The boards felt really good and I liked the thought of not having to use fibreglass, so I made a couple of boards myself to test out and see what they were like. I really enjoyed them. The build process is quicker and simpler than building hollow boards too, so that is always a nice change.
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WHAT PARTICULAR CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE HAVE YOU PURSUED? Because of the jigs and setup I’ve got in my workshop, I’ve been using the same construction technique that I use for my hollow timber boards, however instead of having the internal frame I normally use, I have a high density EPS foam core. I shape the EPS making allowance for the thickness of the deck skins. I put the blank and deck skins into my rocker profile jig then vacuum bag the top and bottom decks on, with a solid timber rail band sandwiched in between. Once the boards are shaped I’ve been giving them a light sealer coat with Bio-epoxy. I’ve found that this method works pretty well for my setup and the boards come out pretty nice, the weight feels really good in them and they’re nice and strong.
HOW DO THE BOARDS HANDLE? The boards handle great. They end up weighing a touch more than a standard PU board but in the water they are a touch more buoyant. Overall they perform really well and are pretty comparable to a standard board. The thing I like about them most though is that the timber skin can handle a bit more punishment than a fibreglass skin. They don’t tend to ding up as easy and are a lot more durable. YOU HAVE A BIT OF HAND JIVE GOING ON AS WELL? Yeah I’ve been making a fair few hand planes lately. They are going pretty nuts. I’ve just collaborated with Deus Ex Machina and we’ve released a batch of Grown for Deus hand planes they’re now stocking. It is an awesome way for me to use all the timber offcuts laying around the workshop and they are great fun to go out and get smashed around in some shoreys with.
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ABOVE: A new EPS-core boards in the birthing suite. LEFT: Retro-inspired PU boards under Andrew’s Wellsy label. BOTTOM LEFT: The quality timber work he’s become so well-known for. BELOW: No wood goes to waste - handplanes for those fun shorebreaks.
Across the range
BIO-RESIN SEALED
Andrew Wells | GROWN SURFBOARDS
NOW YOUR LATEST FOAM AND FIBREGLASS BOARDS... WHAT WAS THE REASON FOR STEPPING INTO THIS REALM OF SURFBOARD CRAFT? It was just something I wanted to have a go at. I started out shaping hollow timber boards and had never shaped any PU boards before, so I just wanted to play around with it a bit. It was a chance to compare what it was like working with different materials. It’s been good fun and I’ve really been enjoying playing around with some new shapes. They’ve been getting a fairly good reception too, which is always nice. I’ve been shaping PU a lot lately particularly when I am prototyping some new shapes that I want to construct in timber. It’s a good way of testing a new shape before I spend twenty hours building a timber version.
I’VE NOTICED A NUMBER OF CLASSIC RETRO SHAPES. IS THAT THE FOCUS? I guess I tend to lean more towards retro style shapes; I basically just shape boards that I want to surf. I generally surf twinnies, quads and singles so I tend to shape boards along those lines. Lately I’ve been enjoying shaping and riding fish’s, so I’ve been tending to focus on them a bit. My favourite at the moment is the microfish which is based off a mini Simmons outline, it has all the good parts of a Simmons but is a lot looser in the tail, it’s heaps of fun.
or glassing... No need f ards, S-core bo e final EP th .. f e. o ng ne ra O e Grown new to th
This new range is constructed from high density EPS foam core covered with timber outer skin, solid timber rails and sealed with Entropy Bio-epoxy resin. The timber provides the protection for the board so no fiberglass is needed. Strong, light, high performance and a small environmental footprint.
CONSTRUCTION
ANY (FCS)
EPS core, timber outer skin and rails, sealed with Bio-Resin.
SHAPER COMMENT
Available in all of the standard Grown Surfboards shapes, or can be ordered custom.
GROWN SURFBOARDS Lennox Head P: 0407 889 049 sales@grownsurfboards.com.au grownsurfboards.com.au JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: WETSUITS
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A great all-rounder longsleeve steamer that’s light, flexible and warm as toast. In men’s and women’s, with sizes from 2XS to 3XL the 3D Combo Mega-Stretch steamer is a great suit for a variety of conditions. The titanium adds extra warmth, and stops wind chill.
A little bit thicker around the middle, the 3/2 gives you extra heat, while retaining all the flexibility you need. At almost half price, the 3D Combo Mega-Stretch steamer is insane value for money. As with all Triple X Wetsuits, the titanium adds extra warmth, and stops wind chill.
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SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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GLOVES
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MEGA-STRETCH SEALED Thickness: 7mm - that’s right, seven! Seams: Sealed as tight as can be Colours: Black Fancy some seriously cold water? This is the suit. Available in M-XL, this one is for the most serious icy enthusiasts... And the average, everyday surfer in Tassie. Even abalone divers rate this particular suit highly, and they know cold! See www.triple-x.com.au for more testimonials and votes of confidence.
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THE TRIPLE X LIFETIME GUARANTEE When you buy a Triple X Wetsuit, you’re dealing with Don direct. He stands behind his suits, covering them for replacement and repair - see www.triple-x.com.au for details.
BUT FINDING THE RIGHT FIT ONLINE?
CONTACT TRIPLE X WETSUITS
At Triple-X Wetsuits, the broad unisex range of styles and sizes for adults from XXS through to XXXL and kids 8 through to 16, coupled with suits using the latest multistretch material means Don can fit a wide range of body shapes and sizes.
Order by phone:
While you can take heaps of complex measurements to overthink the fit of a wetsuit, the two most important variables in fitting your suit correctly are you height and weight. On www.triple-x.com.au, simply click on the wetsuit fitting guide link to find the perfect fit for your body shape.
FREE CALL: 1300 483 634 ...Or browse and buy on the TRIPLE X WETSUITS online store Showroom: Phone: Skype: Web:
10 Piper Drive, Ballina, NSW +61 2 6619 0469 triple-x-wetsuits www.triple-x.com.au
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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CLOSEOUT: FILM
CHASING MAVERICKS 2012 (DVD DUE FOR RELEASE AUGUST 2013)
FOX 2000 PICTURES | WALDEN MEDIA | HOPSCOTCH FILMS
Stills and scenes from Chasing Mavericks. John P. Johnson © 2011 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation and Walden Media
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I knew nothing about the Chasing Mavericks movie as I sat down to watch it with the family. They joined me begrudgingly for what I thought might be a few cool surfing clips from this mother of a wave, but little did we know, it was a full Hollywood production, but not in the cheesy - or classic, depending on your leanings - vein of movies like Point Break. Furthermore, I was pleasantly surprised when I realised it was about the life of surfer and Mavericks legend, Jay Moriarty. For those unfamiliar with his name, Jay was a surfer from the Northern Californian coastal town of Santa Cruz. The film chronicles his quest to surf what was originally thought to be a mythical, monstrous break called Mavericks an hour further north. The film screened in American cinemas in late October 2012 and is due for release on DVD in Australia this August. It stars Gerard Butler who I then recalled actually ended up in trouble during the making of the movie, copping a huge two-wave hold down in 2011 - along with Jonny Weston and Elisabeth Shue. Now I don’t really have any surf idols. I love to surf but don’t get tingles when someone yells out a pro surfer’s name. It’s not that I have anything against the competitive scene - it just doesn’t get me particularly excited as I figure wearing a woolly jumper doesn’t require you to follow extreme knitting on TV...
Mavericks however, and big wave surfing, definitely stirs something at a very different level, and so too did the story about Jay Moriarty and his standing as a man. When I had the opportunity a few years ago to travel along the Californian coast, I made it my mission to visit Half Moon Bay, home to the break. It was dead flat at the time, but I remember standing on the point in awe of what those surfers must confront way, way, way out to sea. In my humble opinion, Chasing Mavericks was a cracker of a movie. Based on a true story, I have to admit, it had me bawling like a baby at the end. Mind you, my excuse was I was bloody tired at the time having just finished our last edition. But, looking around at the rest of the family, they were much the same. Never again will they bag dad for watching ‘another surf movie’. All in all it was a great night at home chilling out. Check it out. (Dave Swan)
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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WEIRD & WONDERFUL
SACRÉ BLEU! ONE RACY SURFBOARD When you imagine businesses doing promotional gear, you’d guess a few hundred bucks on t-shirts and stubby-coolers, right? Not if you’re French car manufacturer, Peugeot, who just had their design studio do up a timber and carbon fibre surfboard, inspired by their latest concept car, the Onyx and the new 208 GTi. Really? A surfboard, you ask? Oui! According to Peugeot, the surfboard design “blends the traditional wood of a classic surfboard with the latest carbon fibre technology.” “Quad fins fluidly placed along the edge of the scalped tail are
designed to give a responsive, exhilarating and agile ride quality.” Looking at them fins, ‘scalp’ is the operative word there... While we doubt we’ll be seeing this one carving it up at Hossegor anytime soon, it is truly cool to see a surfboard reimagined within a completely fresh design paradigm. And what we are pretty sure of is that Glen Cat Collins of Surf 1770 - not to be outdone - will be working up a challenge model inspired by his station wagon... Any day now. The board is on display at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in the UK this July, so no, you can’t ride it. You can however put on a French accent in the surf next time and pretend.
finplugcover.com™ neatly covers over unused fin plugs on surfboards and water craft.
find out more online facebook.com/finplugcover finplugcover.com
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REVHEAD?
Check out the King of Coolum Thundercat boats, July 20-21
SMORGASBOARDER | JUL/AUG 2013
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S R I A P ING RE
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AGNES WATER/1770
REEF 2 BEACH
Mon-Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm
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R BOARD? BUSTED YOU HERE... GET IT FIXED
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Mon-Fri 8am - 5pm Sat 10am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 2pm
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02 6685 8778
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Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm,
0431 740 940
THORNBURY Mon - Fri 10am - 6pm, Sat 10am - 5pm
07 5475 4811
Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 1pm
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Seven days, 9am - 5pm
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03 5952 2578
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Mon, Wed, Fri 11- 5pm, Sat 8 - 12pm
0424 314 183
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02 6645 8362
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Tues - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am - 12pm
0432 330 826
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Mon-Fri 9am -5pm, Sat 9am -12pm
0402 863 763
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DINO’S DING REPAIRS
Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 12pm
0409 727 735
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DIVERSE
Mon-Fri 8:30am - 5:30pm Sat & Sun 9-4pm
REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS Mon-Fri 10am - 5.30pm Weekends by appointment
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0437 032 614
Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm Sat & Sun 9am - 3pm
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Mon-Fri 9am - 5:30pm Thurs 9am - 7:30pm Sat 9am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 4pm
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0450 556 233
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7 days, 10am to 5pm except winter - catch us if you can
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7 days a week - Just call
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To advertise in the Surfers Directory... dave@smorgasboarder.com.au
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THE SURFER’S DIRECTORY
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SURGE SURFBOARDS Bust your board? Call us 24/7
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s Promote your repair busines for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201 JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Kaikoura’s locals takeaway...
est fish, The fresh freshlyt service, es li d n ie r eat f astries, gr baked p or nd m e! coffee... A 240 Beach Rd, Kaikoura NZ
(03) 319 7040
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GOING A GOOD WAY
POINTS OF VIEW
For the past decade as a couple Dave and I have grown up, had a wee tribe of kids and become more responsible human beings, which in a funny parallel has meant that those carefree years of following the ASP Tour and reading mainstream surf mags have been cast aside. In their place is the more mature consumption of magazines such as this one and ‘Dad’ as the number one surf hero for our grommets. But of late, I’ve had to alter my bias towards these pro surfers. Instead of labelling pros as somewhat dicey role models for young surfers, we’re now enjoying the ASP events again and including the kids in watching them both live and on TV. Not only are these guys and gals good ambassadors for the sport, they’re starting to embrace sustainable alternatives and standing up for the ocean (King Slater himself now has a range of Ecoboards in his quiver – glassed with none other than our favourite Entropy bio resin). This leads to greater awareness of environmental issues surrounding surfing and like most things sustainable, is becoming more trendy and important as each generation rolls through. I was recently impressed to read that the ASP 5 Star Volcom Pipe Pro event held in February this year has been classed as a ‘Deep Blue Surfing Event’ (more oceanfriendly) by Sustainable Surf. The ASP also endorsed this event as reducing the environmental impacts of a professional surfing contest, which hopefully in turn will encourage other world tour events to strive for the same. The Volcom Pro met a range of guidelines such as reducing waste to landfill during the event, being powered by bio diesel, becoming carbon neutral and reducing vehicle emissions. They achieved this in a number of ways, including the use of bicycles and skateboards by event staff, competitors and locals alike. A round of applause for Volcom, I say! However with my usual scepticism, I have to wonder that if one event can do it, why can’t others? They set the bar pretty low – you only have to achieve the recommended minimum goals for at least two of the five categories of environmental impacts. But they’re small steps in the right direction and we’re always happy to see inroads being made.
COME TO THE DARK SIDE Coming into the colder months doesn’t mean you have to switch from beer to coffee. In fact, it’s probably the time of year when we’re spoiled for choice. Brewers are able to produce fuller-bodied beers to suite the climate, which ultimately leaves more scope for experimenting and trying new ideas. Porters are the perfect beer for winter. Porter is easily recognisable - it’s essentially a black beer. The colour and distinct flavour are derived from the use of roasted malt. The result is a dark beer, which has coffee and chocolate tones. They tend to have little hop character and rely mostly on the combinations of malt to deliver flavour. The style originated in London in the eighteenth century and as with most great beer styles, nature played a key role. The water in London was perfectly suited for making a dark beer. Dark malt is quite acidic when added to water, but the mineral content of London water (high in calcium sulphate and carbonate) counteracted the acidity, making the beer smooth, and often quite potent. The name Porter is derived from the workers who could often be seen partaking in a wee drop. Porters were essentially an eighteenth century version of a courier. They would carry goods from boats at the docks to destinations in the city, the majority of it done on foot. Being thirsty work, beer was a good way to not only quench that thirst but also keep the calories up while they worked. I did mention potent - these blokes weren’t necking schooners of mid. The beer weighed in at 10-12% abv (alcohol by volume) and the glass of choice was usually a quart. That’s two pints in one go!
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Probably a good thing they were on foot. Imagine the carnage if they drank this stuff and hopped in the mini-van. Thanks Stu, and there you have it. .. I reckon we’re hopping in the Delorean and going to be porters in ye olde England.
RETRO BOARDS & GEAR
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, NZ 39 BEACH ST, FITZROY, NEW PLYMOUTH
Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of the nice folks from Surfing Green, a couple passionate about providing sustainable surfing products.
Stuart Richie is the head brewer at the Byron Bay Brewery at Skinners Shoot Rd, Byron Bay. Stu knows his beer.
surfinggreen.com.au
byronbaybrewery.com.au
P: +64 (06) 7580400 E: beachstreet@xtra.co.nz Like Beach Street Surf Shop on Facebook!
ITS ALL ABOUT SURFING! JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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NO WAVES IN PERU? HA! HA! HA!
MORE THAN JUST A SURF CLOTHING STORE! WE STOCK BOARDS, HARDWARE AND A DISPLAY OF CLASSIC SURFBOARDS.
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PHOTOS: RideTheTides There’s a cool new surf and coffee shop to fill the void left in Cooly by Underground Surf when they moved up to Noosa! Justin Fudge has just opened Sunhouse Surfboards in the old Pizza Hut building - a great venue. Here are some snaps from the opening party in conjunction with the Surfrider Foundation’s International Surfing Day celebration.
CLOSEOUT: SOCIALS
WELCOME TO THE HOUSE OF SUN
Pop in here to say g’day to Justin, grab a coffee, and to get your copy of Smorgasboarder magazine in Coolangatta.
We got this great note and pic from Ian Dellar about the mags we dropped off for the Sawtell Surf Club Surf School:
SMORGASBOARDERS
IN SAWTELL
“I gave all the kids a copy, they were so excited to receive them, they thought it was terrific. I also gave some copies to the Sawtell Boardriders, they were having a comp that day and used them as prizes. So, thank you very much for the mags. You made a lot of people very happy.” Thanks Ian! And we couldn’t be happier that the mags have found such good homes...
JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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CLOSEOUT: SOCIALS
WRECKED AGAIN WORDS: Di Cuddihy PHOTOS: Ian Borland www.oceansurfphotos.com.au The Noosa Malibu Club hosted the 9th annual Wrecks & Relics over-50s longboard contest at Castaways Beach in June. The weather was perfect, the surf glassy and big, which had a few of the competitors looking for their medication. With ages ranging from just-turning-50 (the grommet division) to the over-70s (men’s and ladies) the competition couldn’t have been more fierce between these old-school surfers. For years they‘ve enjoyed catching up with old friends and telling stories about how ‘you should have been here yesterday.’ They’re all mates sharing a common goal surfing for fun. They come with aches and pains - some just recovering from cancer, injuries, heart attacks and a lot more. This is a weekend they can let their hair down (if they still have some) and get out there. Next year will be the 10th anniversary of the event and we all look forward to seeing the same crew back - maybe with a few more wrinkles and aches, but at the end of the day it’s the smile on the face that counts. www.noosamalibuclub.com JUL/AUG 2013 | SMORGASBOARDER
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MORE BARRY NEXT EDITION!
1/07/13 12:58 AM
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w size: 77mm H
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Photo: Ben Vos
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