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LADIES FIRST: CELEBRATING THE SURFER GIRL
20/06/2014 10:47 am
Pumping since ‘71
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14/06/2014 7:09 am
Elyss, Marnie, Kaz, Freya, Sue & Deb... The Frothing Mothers
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July2014_Smorgas_ADS Front.indd 5
14/06/2014 7:09 am
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Every
single edition, the countless stories we've run on female surfers - from young girls to grand dames of the surf industry - have entertained us, moved us, shocked us, or just plain blown us away. And the stories keep coming. It would seem that more girls are taking to the water than ever before! Thankfully, no longer is it an exclusive boys club in the line-up, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a break anywhere without a few of the fairer sex out there. So, in recognition of this, we thought it was high time to dedicate an entire edition to our surfing sisters. Having been incredibly fortunate to have met so many talented, inspired and inspiring women through our travels and time with Smorgasboarder, it's been more than a pleasure putting this edition together. While everyone featured in here is a very different person with their own, unique story, the common thread throughout is simple: surfing is all about getting along. This singular, positive and perfect thought has been incredibly well encapsulated by Kristi Olivares, the 'super surfing mum' from Sydney's Northern Beaches - who you might know as the lady who documented her entire pregnancy while surfing, on video. One of a group of friends brought together by the SheSurfs girls, Mikala and Hayley (see Page 24 for more), Kristi puts surfing and friendship in perfect perspective.
hooded towels swimwear - surf accessories
Over to you Kristi...
"The first surfer girl I met and made friends with after moving to Sydney's Northern Beaches surprised me with her openness when she invited me to a birthday party, so I could meet the other girls in her circle of friends. I had only met up and surfed with her a handful of times and it was nice to get an invitation. I thought there would be many people there and wasn't sure I would even get to know any of them, but I was happy to find out that it was a small group of good friends, and that my husband and I were the only new people in the group. The other girls were lovely as well, and today they are all among my best friends. "I'm lucky to have a life where I get to do my favourite thing in the world with my favourite people in the world almost every morning and it's such an amazing thing to have friends you can trust, count on, who look out for you and who make you laugh till your stomach hurts - surfing with your girlfriends often brings out all of these things in one session "Surfing is such a positive, fulfilling and healthy way of life that girls who surf are often positive, grounded healthy people and those make great qualities in a girlfriend. My surfer girlfriends are all so different that we might not have met if it weren't for our mutual love for having sandy toes and salty hair -- there are so many different professions amongst usteachers, authors, spa managers, small business owners, film makers, actors, world class triathletes, professional photographers, IT recruiters, and CEOs of small human lives (aka moms) -- and yet when we all get together, we are just happy girls who love surfing. XO Kristi"
Ohana we are family 6
SMORGASBOARDER | DEEP WINTER 2014
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FOREWORD SheSurfs girls head out for the morning. Photo: Mikala Wilbow
GET INTO IT We hope you enjoy this edition and the inspiring stories to follow!
Cheers!
rders
sboa the Smorga
PLANS FOR AFTER THE SURF? COFFEE IT IS... Great coffee, roasted daily. Volcom Lane, Raglan NZ WWW.RAGLANROAST.CO.NZ
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DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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DETAILS, CREDITS & STUFF Grab SMORGASBOARDER FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafés on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania, Western Australia and New Zealand... Be nice and buy something while you're there. Or read it online.
MAGAZINE HOME DELIVERY SUBSCRIBE FOR
If you can’t get to a store or other venue to pick the mag up in person, you can also choose to have SMORGASBOARDER delivered to your door. See www.smorgasboarder.com.au. A few back issues are also available for $5 a piece, plus t-shirts & more!
$21 AUS & NZ - 1 YEAR - SIX EDITIONS. Sydney mum Kristi Olivares, captured by Mikala Wilbow of SheSurfs. For Kristi's take on surfing, see page 6. For more on Mikala and SheSurfs, see page 24.
THE COVER SHOT
SMORGASBOARDERS
CONTRIBUTING...
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL: Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201
This is YOUR mag. It’s here for you to tell your stories, show your pictures and share your thoughts - and score some free stuff on the way too, to boot.
NEW ZEALAND: ‘Jiff’ Morris jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz 0220 943 913 DESIGN/EDITORIAL: Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552 ACCOUNTS: Louise Gough louise@smorgasboarder.com.au GEAR TESTS & REVIEWS: Gus Brown gus@smorgasboarder.com.au
E: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au. P: PO Box 501, Moffat Beach QLD 4551 There’s only a few of us here, so please be patient when you get in touch - we’ll try our best to get back to you as soon as humanly possible. Get in touch to discuss any ideas you’d like to be considered for a future edition or online.
BEST NON-DAILY PUBLICATION
QUEENSLAND MULTIMEDIA AWARDS 2013
WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU Smorgasboarder magazine is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.
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LR y p o er Sap C r p u t S n E n i s e R o i B
AKA: THE NEWS
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN OUR LOCAL SURFING COMMUNITY & OTHER ANNOUNCEMENTS
editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au
facebook.com/smorgasboarder
@smorgasboarder
twitter.com/smorgasboarder
THE GOOD NEWS IS SMORGASBOARDER
surfer girl readers are getting out en masse scouring the world for waves... And that is just plain fantastic to see.
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“Nicky here - coming in loud and utterly stoked from Indonesia. All of us local Narooma girls are on a two-week surfathon. We're having an absolute cracker of a time surfing Dreamland/ Balangan /Padang Padang... Got the surf glow on!"
MUM'S THE WORD And in the Sutherland Shire, The Frothing Mothers are getting into it. No, it’s not a band, it's the endearing name given to these loving mothers by their children. These four ladies met while learning to surf later in life. The frothers have well and truly caught the bug and are off to Bali in August with the Cronulla Surf Academy.
L-R: Marnie, Elyss, Deb, Freya, Sue and Kaz.
SMORGASBOARDER | DEEP WINTER 2014
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Ladies'
WIN A SURF RAK! Surf n' Rak, an Australian company down Cronulla way, make every kind of imaginable storage and display racks for everything from surfboards through to paddleboards, snowboards and custom requests. They have literally designed and tested around 100 different racking systems since they began in 1996. Made from powder-coated steel, they are strong and reliable. To celebrate our special Ladies Edition, Surf n’ Rak has especially created these ladies racks for two lucky female Smorgasboarder subscribers.
VR1 FREESTANDING RAK The VR1 is perfect for shortboards up to 7'6", all the contact points are protected with nonmarking rubber with PVC plugs on all ends and finished in a pink powder coat. RRP $99
SR5 WALLMOUNTED RAK Each support is 430mm long and can hold 15kgs when fitted. The backing plate that mounts to the wall is 950mm long. Supports are covered with non-marking rubber with PVC plugs on all ends and finished in a pink powder coat. RRP $189
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO TO BE IN THE RUNNING TO WIN 1 OF THESE 2 GREAT RAKS IS:
Your boards here!
•
Ensure you are a female.. . (This hopefully isn’t too hard)
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Ensure you are a current SMORGASBOARDER home subscriber.
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Submit of photo of you ripping, styling or wiping out in the surf to: competitions@smorgasboarder.com.au
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We'll publish the two winning images in our 2014 SMORGASBOARDER Spring edition!
*Full terms and conditions online at www.smorgasboarder.com.au DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST & GREATEST
BEHIND THE 'LAVENDAR GIRL' Des from clothing company Kenoath shares the feelgood tale behing the 'lavendar girl' t-shirt:
Photo: Leroy Sams
BUZZ WORDS HIVE SWIMWEAR Jaleesa Vincent is an up-andcoming Coolum junior and Hive Swimwear product tester/ action model. Jaleesa won event two of the U16 Qld Titles and the MR Shield in 2012 at the Aussie Titles. ABOVE: Jaleesa is wearing Hive Swimwear Flower Bomb Blue Beehive Bikini LEFT: Natalie McCarthy shows off Hive's 2014 collection, Native to Noosa
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SMORGASBOARDER | AUTUMN/WINTER 2014
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ZEE WETSUITS
“At the age of twenty, I decided to take myself to Queensland in search of the perfect wave. It was then that I met the love of my life. Yes it was tall, strong and handsome and it didn’t take long to know that we would stay together.
SWEET SUITS
"Although it's a little worse for wear now, it has outlived the most important things in my life. Yes life was easy at the time with good surf and a board. What more could one ask for? What a life, but what a passion we have shared and we will always be together – My First Love.”
Zee Wetsuit's Hot Candy is a range of great looking wetsuits that work and have the star-quality looks, as an added bonus! Stand up, and stand out with this exclusive females range by Zee Wetsuits.
The photo was taken outside a Gold Coast motel. She said she was freaked out when I had suggested the name, “My First Love” so it was decided. A new ladies’ design was to be created and I presented it to both of them when they visited the Gold Coast on holidays just before the launch of Kenoath. You could not meet better people.
IN 2010,
I spotted a photo in the Surf City Exhibition in Sydney. It was of a young lady (Roslyn) holding a large lavender coloured board and the image resonated with me. She was a spitting image of one of my cousins and I just loved the photo. Immediately I knew I had to use this image in my forthcoming Kenoath range - It represented the spirit of the road trip which is a strong inspiration of the Kenoath brand. I contacted the curator who put me in touch with Roslyn’s daughter Leisha. I set out writing an e-mail to Leisha and explained what I would like to do with the image and seeking their permission. I told her that I had a title for the t-shirt which was “My First Love” as that is what I imagined Roslyn was feeling in the photo. Leisha and Roslyn replied that they would be thrilled and honoured if I put the image on a shirt. Ros also explained the story behind the photo.
www.zeewetsuits.com
COOL NEW GEAR
There is one more spooky thing. Leisha ended up sending so more photos of Roslyn and a couple with her husband. The likeness between him and the character in one our Sandman T-Shirts designs is just freaky!
Discover some great new gear form brands you love and some you've never heard of...
To check out more of the range, visit: www.kenoath.com.au
RAINBOW SANDALS
GET HAPPY FEET Rainbow Sandals Premier Leather Narrow Strap Pink... Crafted with premier leather, single layer midsole, arch support, non-slip rubber sole complete with Rainbow’s Lifetime Guarantee on the sole. RRP $68 australia.rainbowsandals.com AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST & GREATEST
SURF STYLING
SUP WHEELS
The latest range of incredibly sexy surf bikinis from Costa Rican swimwear label Dkoko are available now. Order online.
Why carry your board when you can wheel it? The new SUP Wheels® Evolution includes a strap handle system with: •
a soft grip handle for comfortable one-handed transport
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an adjustable strap to suit board lengths from 6ft to 14ft
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adjustable hammock harness to secure the board
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a paddle holder, and
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bike attachable without tools or hardware.
www.dkoko.com.au
www.streetsup.com.au
SEXIEST SURFBOARDS & HOT BAGS! There are few things hotter than a handmade High Tide surfboard by Victorian shaper Jordie Brown. For those warm-water-loving Queenslanders, they're on display at Wally's Water Gallery, Lorraine Ave in Marcoola on the Sunshine Coast. ABOVE: High Tide surfboards at Wally's Water Gallery, Marcoola. LEFT: Paige Hareb is in love with her new STS padded travel board bag. They hold up to 3 boards with 10 mm padding plus loads more features! 14
And what do you put such a prized possession in? Why, into a brilliant board bag from Seven T Surf... Order online and score free postage anywhere in Australia to boot. www.seventsurf.com
SMORGASBOARDER | AUTUMN/WINTER 2014
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LATEST & GREATEST SEVENTHWAVE
"I FULLY RECOMMEND THE CUSTOM PROCESS TO ANY GIRL WHO WANTS TO DESIGN THEIR OWN WETSUIT"
SANDY X-OVER
The SheSurfs girls The zip-free back entry system
Looking ahead to spring, here's a lightweight wetsuit - easy to slip on over a swimsuit and just as quick to take off. Made from 2mm Yamamoto Limestone neoprene it's available in a full range of colours, and you can even design your own wetsuit colour scheme. The actual design of the Sandy X-Over is flattering and functional - no zips or velcro that can wear or break. The zip free crossover entry system works and will give you use season after season. If you're not happy with gear off the shelf, when ordering from Seventhwave, you can have your wetsuit made to your shape and size, and have it done in around ten days well worth the wait to have a unique suit that fits like a glove. www.seventhwave.co.nz
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Just turned 21 and this year’s Canterbury Women’s Champ Kristi Zarifeh, daughter of SeventhWave founder Paul Zarifeh, doing some product testing at Taylor’s Mistake, Christchurch. Photo courtesy of Andy Lukey.
SMORGASBOARDER | AUTUMN/WINTER 2014
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New Strap Handle featuring -
Evolution
- Soft grip handle - Suits 6” to 14” boards - Adjustable hammock harness - Paddle holder - Bike attachable
Distributed by
streetsup.com.au 0466-264-232
Made in the USA AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LADIES FIRST
"IT IS UNDISPUTABLE ISABEL HAD A LONGTERM IMPACT ON THE SURFING WORLD." Isabel Letham, 1917 - quite possibly surfing a board left behind by the Duke. Photographer unkown, courtesy of the Centenary of Australian Surfing Photography Exhibition
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Photo Courtesy of Pam burridge, The Retro Retreat
LADIES FIRST Various reports suggest there are now close to one million female surfers throughout Australia and New Zealand. The number of ladies hitting the waves is growing at an ever-increasing rate. Despite this fact, surfing still remains a male dominated activity. Ladies make up only a third of the total surfing population. The tide is turning however, and quite rapidly, thanks to several female surf pioneers and a new breed of women encouraging more and more of the fairer sex to get amongst it. WORDS: DAVE SWAN & MARK CHAPMAN
Let us first recognise a very poignant moment in world surfing history. Outside of the ancient Polynesians and Hawaiians, where both women and men experienced the joys of surfing as part of their culture, Australia’s Isabel Letham (left) was the first female surfer in the world. In 1915, Isabel volunteered for a tandem surf session with the
legendary Duke Kahanamoku whilst the Hawaiian champion visited Sydney’s Freshwater Beach. Whether or not she was the first surfer in Australia as originally believed, or one of the first, it is undisputable Isabel had a long-term impact on the surfing world. A woman was at the forefront of surfing in our corner of the globe.
It was also a woman who in 1964 became our first ever amateur world surfing champion. At the age of twenty-seven, Phyllis O'Donnell, along with fellow countryman, Midget Farrelly, were crowned world champions at Sydney’s Manly Beach. The women’s final however was surfed prior to the men’s so indeed Phyllis
was our country’s first world title-holder. Pam Burridge (above) was another trailblazer who dared to break into the masculine world of professional surfing in the 1970s. In 1980, when she was just 15, Pam won the inaugural Australian women’s surfing championship and it was none other than Isabel Letham who was on hand to
witness this feat. 10 years later Pam became the first Australian-born professional women’s world surfing champion. Amazingly, in the 15 seasons she toured, Pam never fell below 8th place and came runner-up 6 times. Pam was duly inducted into the Sport Australia Hall of Fame in 1996 and the Australian DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Photos courtesy of Gail Austen, Goodtime
LADIES FIRST Surfing Hall of Fame in 1997. It is interesting to note, her first child with husband Mark Rabbidge was named Isabel, in honour of the First Lady of surfing. Today Pam’s passion for surfing remains undiminished sharing her love with others who wish to experience it for themselves. She runs a surf school at Bendalong and Mollymook including ladies only surf lessons and retreats. See page 80 Around the time Pam burst onto the surf scene, so too did another lady, most notably in surf retail. On Christmas Eve, 1972, Gail Austen returned home from working overseas and was called upon by her parents to check out her brother’s surfboard factory. Brian ‘Fury’ Austen had started Goodtime Surfboards in Bolton Street Kirra just 18 months back. These “magnificent works of art” that her brother was creating along with the likes of Michael Peterson, Peter Townend and Rabbit Bartholomew blew Gail away. Gail quickly recognised however, the business wasn’t going anywhere fast and convinced her brother to open a story in Brisbane “where people have got money”. She helped her brother set up Goodtime’s first Brisbane store in an old butcher’s shop in Breakfast Creek. Gail ran the store and in the process became Australia’s first female surf retailer. Over forty years later, Gail is still at the helm. 20
of the Year and inducted into the Australian Businesswomen’s Network Hall of Fame. And she was just as active in the surf scene. In her best ever finish in the Queensland Surfing Titles; held in cyclonic surf at Miami, she came third to Kim McKenzie and Phyllis O’Donnell. However, it is her work behind the scene that truly helped propel the female professional surfing movement.
Just as Phyllis O’Donnell had encountered a fair bit of resistance to her presence out in the water, where she recalled guys aiming their boards at her head as she was paddling back out after a wave, Gail wasn’t welcomed into the world of surf retail with open arms either. One well-known Brisbane surf retailer of the time apparently once yelled out across a crowded function room, “Gail... a woman in the surf industry... Never!” He allegedly even had a Goodtime
surfboard in his own showroom that he would regularly kick in front of customers exclaiming, “This is crap. Don’t go see that Sheila over there, she knows nothing about surfing.” But Gail persisted and reportedly became the number one account for then fledgling surf brand Billabong, introduced Queenslanders to Mambo and was one of the leading retailers of O’Neill Wetsuits. In 1997 Gail was crowned the Telstra Australian Business Woman
“When I left Australia, Phyllis O’Donnell was the World Champion. When I came back women’s surfing was nowhere. You know why? Because the men were running everything and when the surf was no good they would put the women in and have the cadets judge them. “I decided I was going to take the women out of this situation and give them there own thing, to allow them to develop their surfing until they were ready to come back into the fold with the men. So I created the Australian Women’s Surfing
Association and went all around the country getting women to join. I said to Pam Burridge, who was only twelve at the time but an upcoming superstar, ‘When Australia has a female world champion, I will retire.’ Well, Pam went on to become the world champion and I didn’t have to run it anymore.” Gail was also instrumental in setting up the Brisbane Surf Riders Association and a number of other surf events and Brisbane skate parks. Indeed in recognition of her community work, Gail was awarded a Surfing Hall of Fame Award along with an Order of Australia for services to youth. Through the dedication of ladies like Gail, we have been fortunate to have crowned many female champs. South African born Wendy Botha was in fact our first world champion, winning in 1989 as an Australian citizen and again in 1991 and 1992. Pauline Menczer won the world title in 1993 and in 1998; we heralded an era where
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Kat Hogg. Photo: Ryan Robson, courtesy of Hive
"PARTICIPATION IN SURFING BY GIRLS AND WOMEN WAS GROWING AT A PHENOMENAL RATE..." the early days of KAT HOGG on Hive Swimwear
the greatest female surfer of all time reigned supreme. Manly’s Layne Beachley took the surfing world by storm winning an unprecedented, and to this day unequalled, seven world titles, every year from1998 to 2003, and in 2006. Layne’ legacy however, goes far beyond her world titles. Her efforts have seen her elevate the profile of professional women’s surfing to new heights along with the prize money awarded to our top female athletes. In 2006, Layne established the Beachley Classic, offering a prize purse of $140,000. It immediately became the richest event on the ASP Women's World Championship Tour. Whilst the event’s final year was in 2012 it is interesting to note the earning capacity of female surfers has now increased substantially. Layne has been quoted as saying that the top female surfers can now potentially earn in one year what she did throughout her reign at the top. Most recently, Layne’s Aim for the Stars Foundation has further assisted talented females to pursue their dreams, whether it is in the field of surfing or other sports, arts or business. The Foundation is all about empowering and enabling individuals to take control of their lives, to invest in their future and fulfill their potential.
In 2005, another lady from Sydney’s Northern Beaches took centre stage on the pro tour in 2005. Chelsea Georgeson having won the ISA (International Surfing Association) amateur crown in 2002 fulfilled her promise to become the ASP world champion. With her lifelong ambition fulfilled she pursued her next goal, starting a family with her surfboard shaper husband, Jason Hedges.
Chelsea and Jason now have two kids to adore. In the same year Chelsea won her title, an avid surfer with a wealth of experience in the surf industry (she worked for several years as a surf coach before running a surf school and surf travel company in Noosa) decided it was time a swimwear range was designed, specifically with
surfers and active sportswomen in mind. Frustrated with swimwear that was fashionable but not functional, Kat Hogg launched Hive, “Swimwear that Sticks”. Her aim was to develop swimwear that looked great but also remained in place when performing extreme sports. The key was in the cut of the garment and adjustable strap configurations that allowed for a customised and secure fit.
Kat explains what was going through her mind at the time, “Participation in surfing by girls and women was growing at a phenomenal rate and women required swimwear that would match their passion. This is what inspired me to start a swimwear business – to make the first functional women’s surf swimwear.” DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LADIES FIRST
‘Hey! I support female surfing; I’m a part of a network of female surfers all around the World!' Kim Eulenstein
on the significance of GSN stickers..
Photo: Joel Coleman, saltmotion.com 22
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Paige Hareb, courtesy of board sponsor Mt Woodgee
the network. It’s seen as a badge that says, ‘Hey! I support female surfing; I’m a part of a network of female surfers all around the World! I’m a part of the Girl Surf Network.’” Social media has also enabled GSN to not only reach female surfers on a local level but all around the world.
It wasn’t long before a number of current and rising surf stars, along with several top female athletes were wearing Hive. Their support of surfing continues to this day with Hive sponsoring the likes of Australian longboard and SUP champion Erin Dark and rising surf stars Keely Andrews, Jaleesa Vincent and Isabella Nichols, to name a few. With so much promising talent coming through the women’s surfing ranks, our future looks bright. Not that our reign of world champions finished with Chelsea Georgeson in 2005. Since then we've welcomed the ever-smiling, 5-time world champion Steph Gilmore, NZ’s Paige Hareb (Above - the first Kiwi to qualify for the ASP world tour) and Australia’s Chelsea Williams, who won the ASP Women’s World Longboarding title in 2011. So, just as we have enjoyed success within the men’s ranks of the ASP in both shortboarding and longboarding, it's the women who have equally lead the charge with their dominance in the field. Yet, behind the scenes, there are some strong ladies scoring goals of their own. Supporting
aspiring competitive girl surfers and fostering a means for female surfers to connect were primary motivations for Kim Eulenstein (left) to set up GSN – the Girl Surf Network. As a surf-obsessed kid she always pestered her father to drive her to and from the beach every weekend from their home in Sydney’s western suburbs. When she later left home and moved to the beach she found it hard to meet other girl surfers. Kim wasn’t interested in the comp scene, or joining a local boardriders club, which really left no avenues to meet like-minded girls with a passion for the waves. Recovering in hospital from a skateboard accident she had time on her hands to develop her plan and launched the Girl Surf Network in 2012. It has since grown from a Facebook page and website to include a Twitter feed, Instagram, YouTube channel, along with running all-girl surf trips and managing a number of up-andcoming and professional female surfers such as WQS surfer Freya Prumm and WCT Kiwi star Paige Hareb. As Kim explains, “The GSN logo is becoming well known. Anyone with a GSN sticker on their board is essentially a part of
“A simple #girlsurfnetwork adds their imagery to the Girl Surf Network Instagram network. I’ve had numerous girls in the lineup say ‘Hey! I follow you on Instagram! My Insty name is…..’ And the conversation goes on.” Kim has truly created an effective platform for females to connect and there are further plans for expansion through their list of core contributors including pro surfers, free surfers, nutritionists, ocean scientists and health and fitness professionals. “The GSN website is quickly becoming a large information base for everything female surfing, both the grass roots to the professional side of the sport and all aspects that are relevant to female surfing.” To connect with GSN go to: www.girlsurfnetwork.com, facebook.com/GirlSurfNetworkAus, instagram.com/girlsurfnetwork, twitter.com/GirlSurfNetwork, ...and see the GSN Youtube channel. And girls surf networking doesn't stop there... There are a number of surfing networks out there catering to all manner of surfer girls - from the Surfing Mums, initiated by Vanessa Thompson DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Hayley (left) and Mikala of SheSurfs
who later went on to arrange the inaugural Byron Bay Surf Festival (see surfingmums.com for more), to WOW Girls (Waves of Wisdom) founded by Yvonne Lamont to provide opportunities for women to experience a diversity of exciting, interesting and empowering activities, including surfing (see www.wowgirls.com.au), and the online space Surf Sister by Byron Bay artist and surfer Narani Henson, which profiles a number of girls doing interesting and amazing things in relation to surfing (see www.surfsister.com.au)... There are truly many passionate people out there, you just have to look... One place you don't have to look too hard is the Northern Beaches where, less concerned with the competitive side of surfing, Mikala Wilbow (last edition’s featured surf photographer) and friend Hayley Shaw-McGuinness, are the two young ladies behind the all-girl surf community SheSurfs, and they're intent on creating meaningful connections between girl surfers of all ages and backgrounds. What started as a simple idea has blossomed into a number of beautiful friendships. “Mikala and myself are blessed with the most amazing talented, kind and fun surfer girlfriends,” Hayley explains. “I know that I wake up every day with a happy heart because I know that I am surfing with these 24
Shortboard or long? Steamer or springy? It’s freeeeeeeezing! Forgot my legrope! Bring some wax. Can do coffee and muffin today! On the toilet... Might be a while. Ok see you in the water!
wonderful women as the sunrises. We started Shesurfs because of the friendship and joy that brought us together and we wanted to connect more surfer girls across Australia and the world." Hayley tells how the surfing group formed thanks to a mutual friend, Yasmin 'Yaz' Maksut, who also had a bit to say about how SheSurfs brings the girls together. “For me, friendship and surfing are synonymous," writes Yaz. "I'm lucky enough to have a group of amazing girls who I surf with each morning. For many people, the daily grind of work dictates their thoughts. On any given weekday, they think about it the moment they wake up, while they are getting ready, on the way to work, while actually at work (or so their boss hopes), on the way home and as they lie in bed at night, dreading yet another day where their occupation consumes their thoughts.
"Since I fell in love with surfing and my surf sisters, the opposite is true. I think about surfing the moment my eyes open when I glimpse the first hint of silver on the horizon. As it’s still dark, and before I even throw off the covers, I draw upon my other senses. I listen for the wind. If it’s still, I’m full of anticipation for a glassy early session. If there is movement in the air, I apply my detective skills. I sniff the air for the smoky smell of a north westerly. I listen for the howling whistle of a southerly as it blusters against the windows. I feel the air on my skin and the chill lets me know that an icy south westerly is blowing over the snowy peaked mountains. I reach for my phone and message my surf sisters with the report and we decide on the best beach to meet at for the conditions. "Tiptoeing down the stairs, I read more messages from my girls:
"When we arrive at the beach every day we all squeal and embrace. The bleary-eyed boot camp participants stare at us in confusion. Clearly this level of excitement is reserved for special occasions, according to ordinary folks. Not for us. Every day is like Christmas morning, full of anticipation. We grab out boards and head down to the water. "As we wade out into the ocean together, I look at my girls... We surf together, encourage, swap tips, swap boards, give advice, grin, giggle, chuckle, laugh and when something is hilarious, we snort loudly! "The waves keep our friendship alive. We all met on the beach with sand between our toes and I still remember when we exchanged our first hellos. "Individually, we appear average girls. But what's that saying? The whole is greater than the sum of its parts. And the love and
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LADIES FIRST
"The waves keep our friendship alive. We all met on the beach with sand between our toes..." YAZ MAKSUT
on the friendship of the SheSurfs girls
Photo: Mikala Wilbow
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LADIES FIRST
"I BELIEVE THAT THE FRIENDSHIP BONDS THAT YOU FORM IN THE OCEAN ARE A DEEP LIFE-LONG CONNECTION… IT'S A GOOD LIFE AS A SURFER, AND ONE DEEPLY ENRICHED IF YOU SHARE IT WITH LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE." HAYLEY SHAW-MCGUINNESS
on spreading the love through SheSurfs
friendship I have with these girls is like nothing I’ve ever known. They make my life complete and I’m so grateful to have their beautiful souls merged with my own. And when the day ends and I climb into bed and check the swell forecast. We exchange messages about where might be working and I am smiling. Tomorrow, I surf with my girls again." (For more on SheSurfs, see www.shesurfs.com.au) And with that thought, it's plain to see that as far as women and surfing goes, while it's a very different time to be in the water than it was in Isabel Letham's day, it's all really coming full circle, and how girls looking out for each other today is a great reflection on what the pioneers of women's surfing were doing in decades past. Just like then, a little positivity and motivation goes a long way to changing the world around you.
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www.sandyfeetsurf.com.au We take photos too.
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SURFWAREAUSTRALIA.COM DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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One young lady from Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula is actively blurring the lines between study, work, art and photography - all at once. Cait Miers, while still a student of photography, already boasts a welltravelled portfolio you’d expect from a long-term career photographer. With such a solid start to her career, who knows how far things can go? We learn a bit more about all the pursuits in life that keep her busy.
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At this point IN TIME... ...there really aren’t too many ladies hopping in the water with a camera to shoot surfing. Cait Miers is however one young lady breaking this mold, braving the Victorian cold and producing some amazing imagery in the process. “This is so true, and it’s something I’m trying to change,” Cait comments about the lack of ladies behind the lens in the surf. “I’ve been passionate about surfing for so long, and it seemed inevitable that I combine my two loves. “So far the response has been amazing. Even non-surfers are so interested in how it all works. A friend recently made a short doco on my life as a photographer (see www.smorgasboarder.com.au to watch it) and that had such a warm response. I think people find it interesting because it is something different, and they’re embracing it, because women and surf culture go hand in hand.” Going beyond just the vivid visual inspiration, Cait is keen to encourage other girls to try their hand as well. “Go for it. Don’t be intimidated by the guys. That’s one thing I’ve learnt. You have to be really fearless and just focus on you and what you’re doing. If you’re comfortable in the water, start with a GoPro or an underwater point-and-shoot and start snapping! There are so many more opportunities for women in the water these days. It’s moving in such a positive direction, and I’m excited to see where women’s surfing will go next. In the meantime, Cait’s also busily finishing up her studies in photography.
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LATEST: LENSPERSON u And this is Cait
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" Yo u h a v e to b e r e a l l y f e a r l e s s a n d j u s t fo c u s o n yo u a n d w h a t yo u ’ r e d o i n g . "
“I’m in my third and final year right now. Strange to think I’ll be finished soon, but I learn so much about photography at Uni and it’s a really great place to get inspired by everyone around you. “Over the summer period, I ended up doing a few spontaneous fashion shoots for local brands, and from then it has just snowballed. I guess it comes down to embracing everything that’s coming my way, whilst putting my own spin on things. 32
Her ‘own spin’ includes decorative line drawings, which she overlays on her photographs. “This idea literally started one afternoon a few months back when I was doodling on a piece of paper. My first design was a patterned circle, and it went from there. One thing I always try to do with my photos is add a point of difference. And for me, drawing was that. It’s just a bit of fun and it’s a way of showcasing something different. I
can’t draw anything else apart from patterns though - I’m terrible! I’m trying to collab with a few artists at the moment who will draw on my photos too! Collaborations like this are fuelled by proximity to other artists at Cait’s work and display space at Art Space 8 - a studio based in Mornington, that houses around 10 creatives specialising in a variety of disciplines.
“We’ve got jewellery makers, painters, interior decorators, photographers and more,” Cait says. “It’s a great place to come and get work done. I share a space with my boyfriend Hayden O’Neill who’s also a photographer, (regular Smorgasboarder readers will have seen Hayden’s shots in the mag over the past few years - Ed) so we’ve got prints and frames all over the walls. “We often have open days where the public can come visit, check out our
work spaces, buy things and hang out. It’s been the best decision I’ve made for my photography, it’s really kickstarted things.” Not that Cait needs any starting motivation at all, with a whole lot on her plate already… “Yeah the beginning of the year is super busy, but I love it! My surf shooting is really spontaneous, and any spare hour I have I’m usually down there. It helps having local
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LATEST: LENSPERSON guys and girls that are keen to shoot, makes it like a little community. I’m learning quickly that surf photography is much harder than it looks, and you read the surf completely different to if you were on a board! And Cait is quite comfy on a surfboard... “(laughs) Oh, I don’t know about that, but I try!” she says modestly. ”I’ve been brought up around the ocean, and started off with bodyboarding
then surfing when I was about 13. I ride a Misfit 6' Magic Mule I got for my 21st. It shreds! Dad taught me how to surf, and my younger brother is a really keen surfer too. Most family holidays have been to surf destinations, and I guess living on the coast, you breathe it! I also love longboarding, and want to get more into that. I think longboarding is a way to dance on the wave, being really stylish with your surfing... Something I want to explore.”
M EXPLORING...
is something Cait’s incredibly passionate about and her travel photos stand testament to. We asked her about experiences abroad:
I backpacked through South East Asia last summer and began to capture things that were happening around me. The people you meet are incredible, and for me, that trip was all about capturing fleeting and unexpected moments.
“My travel has just come from this deep desire to be immersed in a different way of living. I’ve managed to do a few trips around my studies, and I guess I just never walk the streets without a camera in hand.
“We went to the Maldives and Sri Lanka last year which was incredible. The Maldives definitely handed us perfect conditions to shoot surfing, and we often found ourselves wandering the streets of Sri Lanka for
hours, snapping what we saw. I don’t have a favourite trip in particular, as they all have special moments that mean different things.” Different photographic disciplines require different gear and setups. Cait filled us in on what equipment she uses for shooting surfing. “I’ve only just recently bought an Aquatech underwater housing for my Canon 7D, which is insane. I use a 50mm lens in the water, and DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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"THE OCEAN WILL ALWAYS INFLUENCE MY WO R K I N S O M E W A Y " hopefully soon I’ll also get my hands on a fisheye lens. I’ve also got a long lens Sigma 120-400mm which I use on land. I’ve got the mere basics to start myself off with, and right now just trying to do the best with what I have!” But, as we all well understand, shooting from the water takes a fair bit of effort and the conditions around the peninsula can be a bit hairy at times, so for a Victorian surf photographer, it’s about more than just the equipment… “Yeah water shooting is really tricky. I used to swim competitively when I was younger, so that base has definitely helped me. I feel really comfortable swimming out there, so I tend to just go with whatever the waters doing, the ocean is hard to fight! I use fins to help me swim, and I never go out alone. I think the main thing for me is to be really aware of surfers around me, because they often can’t see you.” As to the future, Cait’s an ambitious person, and wants this to turn into a full time career one day. “I love what I do and my plans are to just travel as much as I can, and see what experiences come up for me! I’m a big believer in letting it happen and not forcing things, so I think whatever will be, will be.”
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So will surfing feature in the future journey for Cait? “Absolutely,” she says. “The ocean will always influence my work in some way, but I don’t just want to stick to one thing. Fashion shoots have really interested me lately and I plan on continuing with those, as well as travel and lifestyle imagery. I know that I want to keep shooting out in the water as much as I can, surfing, concepts, people and otherwise. But most of all enjoy it, every day.”
MORE... Cait’s currently working on a big project for the year based around women embracing their femininity and style in the lineup. Keep your eyes peeled for a possible exhibition. www.caitmiers.com @caitmiersphotography facebook.com/CaitMiersPhotography
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It’s all about the Beach Fallen Broken Street Felt Hats
Wally’s Water Gallery t-shirts
High Tide Surfboards & more Jay Cee Kay Chenille Towels
Photo: Wally Johnson
6 L O R R A I N E AV E , M A R C O O L A B E A C H Q L D ( 0 7 ) 5 4 4 8 8 5 6 0
S T O C K I N G Q U A L I T Y A U S T R A L I A N - M A D E S U R F B O A R D S B Y T O M W E G E N E R , B U S H R AT, H I G H T I D E , B L A C K A PA C H E & S A S • S U R F B O A R D S • S U R F A RT • S H E L L S D R I F T W O O D T H I N G S • C H E N I L L E S H O RT S • R E T R O S U N N I E S T H O N G S • T O W E L S • U M B R E L L A S • H A M M O C K S • G I F T S • G O P R O C A M E R A S . . . A N D S O M U C H M O R E DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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LATEST: ARTMAKERS
DRAW ING INSPIRATION SHANNON
PALMER
Sunshine Coast visual artist Shannon Palmer is inspired by the simple things: her family, friends and the coastal lifestyle she is immersed in. Her surrounds form the basis of her work, enabling Shannon to be present in the moment, to capture life by beautifully transposing what she sees onto timber with an HB pencil. Her canvas is often a skateboard deck or a hand plane, surfboard fin and alaia. As Shannon explains, “The idea of creating a piece of useable art is something I find inspiring. Beauty and function in collaboration.” WORDS: DAVE SWAN
We first came across a digital reproduction of Shannon’s work as a featured artist within the CTRL V surfboard decal range. It was incredibly striking but we were further blown away when we saw the full array of her work at an exhibit. We recently chatted with Shannon about her art.
your choice of medium... WHY DO you choose to draw as opposed to paint? I've painted small, super-real water colours and large-scale acrylic canvases. All of them took ages to complete and often, I'd get bored and move on before I finished. As a result, I have a large pile of sad, unfinished artworks lurking around. Sketching however, I'm in love with from start to finish. Often I can get a piece finished in one sitting and if not, I'm champing at the bit to get back to it. Kinda like reading a good book. Also, I feel more 36
in control when I sketch, there's no set up, drying time or clean up - this suits my laziness. All I need is my pencil and something to sketch on and I'm good to go :)
In your opinion, is drawing as valued as painting as an art form? I never used to think so. I always thought of drawing as the first step in the process of creating an artwork. Sketching out the image that would later be painted over in a 'proper' artwork. Now though, I feel a pencil drawing - graphite or colour - can be just as beautiful, simple, complex and thought provoking as any piece of art. I sometimes feel that in a room of artworks, my sketches would be like the shy wallflower sitting in the corner. Not as eye catching or attention grabbing, but nonetheless just as beautiful and worth looking at (laughs).
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IN MANY WAYS, DRAWING WOULD SEEM MORE INVOLVED AND INDEED DIFFICULT? In the sense that I enjoy sketching so, so much, it's easier for me than anything I have ever done. Technically, it can get a little tricky, especially when I have to do faces and hands! The worst kind of difficulty for me in art is staying inspired and in love with a piece long enough to finish it and if you can't, it can be really disheartening.
HOW ON EARTH DO YOU GET A MINUTE’S PEACE TO CONCENTRATE, LET ALONE WORK ON YOUR PIECES WITH YOUNG KIDS?
Shannon's art on hand planes made by her dad.
My kids are great. They’re 10 and 13, so they are pretty much self-sufficient little humans. They're creatures of habit. School, surf check, chores, surf. They're my greatest supporters and most constructive critics. I can easily sketch during 'family time'. I'll often sit sketching while family life goes on around me (being female means I can sketch, hold a conversation, sign permission slips, make school lunches and listen to the news all at the same time (laughs). My biggest road block to getting art done, is work (laughs again). Work is teaching High School Visual Art classes, though if anything, being surrounded by art studies and materials all day just makes me more inspired and ready to sketch.
Bring the Ocean Indoors
CHECK OUT SHANNON'S ART IN ACTION https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C87_mItEvnI The skateboard in the time lapse video was donated by Mudjimba Cruisers to a little girl named Holly who has Cerebral Palsy. Holly can’t walk and drags herself around the house like a little mermaid. This became the inspiration for Shannon’s sketch. If that doesn’t bring a tear to your eye we reckon your heart has stopped beating.
Artworks ready to hang available from the gallery or delivered worldwide Gallery Location Market Place, Manly, NSW Order online at www.saltmotion.com
www.shannonpalmerart.com.au ShannonPalmerVisualArtist
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When she's not creating intricate, detailed images in her self-styled studio, or creatively snapping with her camera, she has a surfboard under arm, heading for a wave at one of the many Northern NSW surf breaks. Yet it's all a world away from her former life in Europe. For passionate surfer and Byron Bay fine artist and photographer Isabell Heiss, her new life all started with a three-month holiday in Australia‌ WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN
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LATEST: ARTMAKERS Photo: Erica Hartnick
THE JOURNEY "The plan was to see the country and visit some friends. I had never heard of Byron but my good friend Simona was living here, so I came to see her. "Surfing - which before, was just holiday fun for me - took on a whole new meaning. The freedom it gave me, and the amazing people I met on my travels made me decide to give up my life in Munich and move to Australia. It was pretty hectic, and a big shock for my friends and family - the first very selfish thing I’ve ever done, but I am not regretting it one bit!
Photo: Thais Pupio Veneziani
"It took me no longer than 3 months to figure out that a life in Sydney was not what I came here for. I realised I was looking for something different, and I found it here in Byron. With a wave almost every day, being surrounded by awesome friends, inspiring people and beautiful nature with heaps of space to get creative, I’m living the dream, man!
THE STUDIO "Space is key. To be able to create I need a lot of space, in my head and around me. It took me a while to find out that the space I needed was right in front of me. I turned the very old and rusty garden shed in the middle of our beautiful backyard into my studio. My flatmate Tim got me on to the idea of turning it into my workspace, and so I did. First, I had to get rid of all the crap that was piling up in there, but nothing that a couple of trips to the tip couldn’t fix. The tip was also the place where I got all the materials to fit it out; I even cut a window in it to have more light in there. It was pretty fun and very rewarding to get the heavy-duty gear out and play tradie for a couple of weeks. I created my own awesome studio just 50m away from my room where I could make as much noise and mess as I want. Now I can create little artworks on wood and paint to loud music. "The shed gave me the space to push my limits - for my art and myself. Testing out materials like wood, resin and different ways of printing, painting and stencilling. "I use a variety of materials that I pick up from all over the place, the garden, the tip or garage sales. It’s incredible what you can find once you start looking. "The progression of the shed space also gave me the idea to show the progression in my work. I think people are interested in how an artist’s work is created, so I will be posting my experiments and new work on Instagram and Facebook, hopefully on a daily basis. I want to give people an insight into my world and work, so they can see what’s happening in the shed, and what’s coming up next." DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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THE ARTWORK
focused on a main character, which I later merge with natural elements, such as pressed dried flowers or drawings of animals.
"I would say it’s very experimental and versatile. There are basically two lines to my art:
"All these little art works have a retro look, which ranges from the ‘20s to the ‘80s. I sometimes even use original photos from my grandparents in Bavaria.
"One is my painting, which is fine art. These pieces always focus on a central character, who can be the personification of a feeling, a gesture or moment in time, or an inspiring person I have met. Lee Ann Curren - daughter of surf legend Tom Curren and granddaughter of big wave surfer Pat Curren - became the subject of one of my pieces. She stayed with us in Byron for a couple of weeks and is a beautiful woman, incredible surfer and a free spirit. "I pair my characters with animals -I guess you could say kind of totems. The bond with nature is pretty important to me, so of course I reflect that in my art. My pieces range from simple, almost black and white paintings to quite psychedelic, very colourful ones, most of them with graphic elements and a surreal touch. I mainly use ink, because of its transparency, and I quite often put some sort of texture on my canvas before I start painting. To prepare them I use anything from paper mache, red dirt, rice glue, shells, whatever I think works with the theme of the painting. It’s sometimes difficult to paint on, but the result is very rewarding. The texture gives me something to respond to and I love to work with a lot of detail. The longer you look at my paintings the
Photo: Erica Hartnick
"Both lines have one common theme: you can find my history in them, the path I went from Germany to Australia. You’ll find the things I saw on my travels that inspired me and I hope it takes you there by looking at my art. more you discover. There are hidden things all over the place - sometimes animals, or just patterns I use to create more depth. It also means I work with tiny brushes on big canvases…I’m not a fan of painting on a small scale, although I go very small in the patterns and details. That can get almost painful sometimes, using little dots, circles or whatever pattern to cover a big part of the canvas. But I just can’t help myself once I’ve started…
confidence and inspiration I needed to believe in what I am doing, and it enabled me to open up and let the public into my creative world.
NEW DESTIN ATIONS
"The second line, which I’m still experimenting with, started with the idea of making little affordable artworks on wood tiles, covered with resin so you can even use them for splashbacks. To create these tiles I use my photography, stencils or just print on paper, which I then mount onto the wooden backing. "Some of my photos I manipulate in Photoshop or inDesign to create a pattern and combine it with geometric elements. Others are more
ART VS SURFING "Surfing opened up new horizons for me. It gives me the feeling of freedom, gets me in the right headspace and amps up my confidence. The ocean has been an infinite source of inspiration, and has allowed me to connect with myself, and everything around me. When I surf, I don’t think about anything else, especially if it’s a challenging one. You could say it’s the most awesome way of meditating. "Some of my paintings and tiles are directly inspired by it, showing surfers and reflecting the feeling its gives me. I would even go so far and say without it I wouldn’t be an artist today. Surfing and moving to Australia gave me the
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"Oh there are sooo many!! I think every surfer has the same feeling - it makes you go places you wouldn’t consider if you were not surfing… Like my first proper surf trip to Indo, the Mentawaiis. I was only surfing for a year back then and you can imagine this trip really pushed my limits. The first time at a reef break, solid 6ft swell… I thought I’d die! Nothing makes you feel more alive though! I survived at the end with not a single scratch, but some shaky knees and a lot of respect for the power of the ocean. "I would still love to see so many places, like Chile, South Africa, Hawaii, Morocco... Even Western Australia. First I’m going to Indo again, 3-5 weeks of surfing, working on my lefts (laughs) and doing some research for my art. I’ll be in Bali, maybe with a trip to Lombok and then to wherever the wind blows. To see Isabell's work , visit the Butchers Hook Gallery, 52 William st, Sydney Paddington, Retrospect Gallery in Byron Bay, or contact Isabell directly for any commissioned work. www.heissart.com www.facebook.com/IHEIssA @i_heissa
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This edition of SMORGASBOARDER is all about celebrating women of the surf. Beyond pure surfing prowess, or competitive wins, there are countless strong female role models of all ages, excelling in their own respective areas of expertise and helping to make the world a better place in their own special way. Here are just a few of these leading ladies that deserve a nod and a healthy dose of respect. These are women... Hear them roar.
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Photo courtesy of Surefire SUP
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SUPS L A U R A
W E L L S
Meet Laura Wells - paddleboarder, runner, plus-size model, environmental scientist and activist.
“When I tell people that I’m a model and I also have a double degree in Science and Law they usually look at me quiet strangely and are really surprised at first. ‘Model’ and ‘scientist’ don’t usually go together for most people - it’s quite a juxtaposition. Once they get over the initial shock, they understand my passions and can see how model/scientist can work really well together. Because of my profile, I can let people know about the environment and educate them about where we’re heading, and what needs to be done. “I have been working around the world as a full-time model for the past six years, and I encourage positive body image for men and women that aren’t of the normal “model” size. Being a size 14 myself, it’s been a great trip for me. It’s allowed me to learn a lot more about myself and be confident with my own body.
“I went to university and studied an Environmental Science degree as well as a Law degree, but science has been my passion for years, and in particular the ocean. Growing up in Cronulla, I was really privileged to live right on the ocean and right near the National Park, so I got to experience a lot as a kid and so developed a great passion for the environment. It has made me want to conserve and preserve what we have, and make it better for the future generations. I want to let them know that I did as much as I could to help out and keep the world a beautiful place. “I’m extremely lucky where I live. Every morning I look out my window and see paddleboarders enjoying the morning. We have a really nice bay break where I live and most mornings there could be anywhere from 10-30 paddleboarders out the front. I usually wake up to them either laughing or shouting at one another, but it’s a really nice trip and I’m so glad I can go and join them with a board that suits me now.
“I think it is great that companies have taken on board the needs of women. When I started to paddleboard I really wanted a board that was easy enough for me to carry around, get on and off the car, and also small enough to store, while being stable enough to enjoy in both flat water and small surf. "I approached Mick Slattery from Surefire Stand Up Paddleboards to see if he had something that would suit and he discussed all my needs and abilities. Lucky for me, Mick was in the process of designing a board that would suit me - I was the perfect R&D candidate. "We got together and tried a few different models to see how I could handle carrying the boards and the stability I required. Mick then came up with a few options until we were both happy with the design. "I’ve noticed board design in stand ups change over the last year to be shorter, but still easy to paddle, and this really helps to get more girls and women into the sport. You can still have a board with enough
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volume to be comfortable paddling, but also have the added benefit of the boards being lighter, and easier to carry and store.
ENVIRONMENT "I am involved with a group called Responsible Runners and we have a Responsible Café program, where the café signs up to give customers discounts if they bring in their own reusable coffee cups or containers for food, helping to prevent single-use coffee cups and containers going into landfill or floating around in the ocean. These containers and cups either can’t be, or aren’t recycled properly, so this small initiative can save a lot of possible waste becoming landfill. "We live in such a beautiful and pristine environment, but a plastic water bottle can last up to 450 years out in the ocean, circulating while they break down, which then ends up in our food source. Fish and other marine life eat the plastics, we then eat the fish so consequently we are eating our own trash. “Out paddleboarding I see so much rubbish floating around, so together with Mick from Surefire we’re trying to start Responsible SUP where you take a little mesh bag with you to pick up the rubbish you see along the way, then pop it in the bin when you get back to land. We’re currently sourcing some mesh bags and hope it catches on, as we are all out there enjoying the water and 44
we all have to be responsible for what we see. It’s no good whinging about it unless you plan to pick it up. “I’m just about to film an 8-part mini series documentary on plastics in the ocean. We’ll be filming all through the South Pacific. Places like Lord Howe, Norfolk, Solomon Islands, Fiji, Vanuatu... "We’ll film an episode on each of these islands to document the plastic debris there and what the different countries are doing to fix the problem. We’re also
implementing structures and waste services on these islands to recycle the plastics that have been washed up onto these islands and turn it into something amazing, creating jobs on these islands for the people and change a lot of lives”
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DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Surfer, snowboarder, all-round thrill-seeker and soon-to-be professional stuntwoman, Angie Adler lives one interesting life. Regular Smorgasboarder readers may recall we interviewed Angie close to two years ago when we spoke with her about her hometown of Kaikoura on New Zealand’s South Island. Back then, Angie (Koops) was about to get married to long time beau, Dru Adler, and had commenced training as a stuntwoman. Dave Swan recently caught up with her to hear what’s been happening in her ever-eventful life. LAST WE SPOKE YOU WERE A COUPLE OF MONTH’S OUT FROM THE WEDDING. LIFE'S NO DOUBT GOING GREAT AS NEWLYWEDS? He's trouble, Dave (laughs). Nah it’s been awesome. I couldn't imagine life without my big friendly giant. I've known Dru for eight years now and sometimes think he may still be growing taller. Dru's my best buddy. We have so much in common, which is really important. It’s been great to make that big step. I recommend tying the knot. SURFING HAD TAKEN A BIT OF A BACK SEAT TO YOUR PERSONAL TRAINING AND STUNT TRAINING. ARE YOU STILL COMPETING? I’ve just been competing against the boys in the Palm Beach Boardriders for the last year and a couple of weeks ago I competed in the first QLD event, after a year off. I got into the semi-finals and placed 5th. Hopefully in the next one I will go a little better...
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Photo: Dru Adler
HOW IS THE STUNT TRAINING GOING? Stunt training has been challenging but so much fun. I have a great stunt trainer in Darko Tuskan, who is extremely knowledgeable and very experienced within the film industry. I’m so stoked to have teamed up with such a great stunt coordinator who's willing to teach me the ropes. If you want to get good at something, you gather knowledge from the best.
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ANY MAJOR INJURIES TO DATE? Nothing serious, thankfully! A twoweek neck strain from landing on my neck and a bunch of bruises, but I’ve been told the bruises are to be expected - I guess I better get used to those. YOU MENTIONED YOU ARE WORKING ON A FEW SHOWS LATELY. WHAT ARE THEY? I have been helping Darko with water safety on Mako: Island of Secrets - a spin off of the original TV series H2O: Just Add Water about a teenage boy and three mermaids - looking after the actors whilst in the water, making sure the directors are happy with the positioning of props and assisting them with actor step-ins to ensure the camera angles are correct before they commence filming. It's
been so much fun. I'm learning a lot about the film industry and meeting lots of awesome people in the process. I am also going to be an extra - playing a cop - in the movie San Andreas (a Hollywood Blockbuster being filmed on the Gold Coast starring Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson). All going well, I will also be properly graded as a SAP (Stunt Action Person - a person suitably graded, qualified and skilled to perform in background action and group stunt work) within the next few months. I HEAR YOU'VE BEEN SWIMMING WITH SHARKS AS WELL? I am working in the Reef Tank at Sea World, only with the small sharks though. I won't lie: even the smaller ones when they
come towards you make you feel like a fish out of water. They are absolutely incredible. I have a healthy respect for them. Next week I am working with the dolphins and I am really looking forward to that. SURF TRIPS, STUNT TRAINING, TV SERIES, MOVIES, SHARKS… ARE YOU UNDERTAKING ANY OTHER MUNDANE ACTIVITIES? Dru has been working on a short film as part of his university degree in Digital Media. So he and I have teamed up together with some of my friends from stunt training to do a little fight scene for Dru’s movie. It’s called Locals Only and is based on the movie Point Break. It has been a really good experience for both of us, and should be a bit of a laugh. After his presentation it will be posted on YouTube.
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TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT LIFE WHERE YOU LIVE? I wouldn’t change my life at the beach for any other life. I love to travel but every time I go somewhere else I realise how great it is to live in Costa Rica and how much I love my country with its perfect waves, warm water, magic places and friendly people. WHEN DID YOU START SURFING?
M I C H E L L E
R O D R I G U E Z
It’s the most commonly used phrase in Costa Rica, which literally means the “Pure life”, but it is more than just a simple saying. To Costa Ricans “Pura Vida” is a way of life. It reflects their attitude towards their being; that life is wonderful, so be happy, healthy and enjoy nature. Michelle Rodriguez, the lady behind the stunning Coast Rican swim/surfwear label Dkoko, epitomises the spirit of her motherland. WORDS: DAVE SWAN
I've been always in love with the ocean as when I was a little girl my mom used to take me and my sister to the beach to spend the whole summer there. When I was around 20 I used to go to the beach on my day off with friends. After spending a couple of trips sunbathing on the sand I started to think surfing (that only the guys practiced) looked more fun and decided I wanted to learn. I immediately went crazy about it and moved to the beach to learn how to surf. It changed my life completely and now I cannot imagine myself without it. WHAT WAS THE IDEA THAT KICKED OFF DKOKO? When I started surfing, I could never find a bikini that stayed in its place and that would fit me as I wear different sizes in top and bottom. I was studying Fashion Design and I created Dkoko as my graduation project. The idea was to make bikinis that stay on, you can mix and match (sizes and colours), are trendy and at the same time make girls look good. ARE THERE CHALLENGES PRODUCING THE RANGE? Costa Rica is very expensive and I have to pay a lot more than if I made them in Asia or somewhere else. However, it makes me very happy to know I'm supporting the local people from my country and that they work in a nice place and have a good job environment. If you're interested in some Pura Vida, Dkoko’s line of bikinis and fitness/yoga wear are available online through www.dkoko.com.au
Photo courtesy of Dkoko 48
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PADDLE POWER WITH
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Z h a n a
"HI I'M ZHANA HUTCHIESON, I AM 13 YEARS OF AGE AND COME FROM A SMALL TOWN CALLED WAITARA, WHICH IS SITUATED ON THE COASTLINE OF TARANAKI."
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WHEN DID YOU FIRST SURF? Well I had my first go on a surfboard when we lived on the Gold Coast which is going back about six years ago. My stepdad would push me onto waves which was a lot of fun. At the age of ten I started surfing more, and then went into my first competition which was a microgroms event that ran around the time of the ASP tour in New Plymouth. Ever since then I've been hooked on surfing and competing in almost every competition run locally and nationally. WHO INSPIRES YOU? That would have to be Carissa Moore, she's so amazing and rips it up. Also she came
H u t c h i e s o n to our local Waitara Bar Boardriders Club where we got to hang out and have dinner and watch a movie with her. So funny coz we played Boy the movie hehehe! My dad Brent 'Hench' Hutchieson is a big inspiration to me as he was once a New Zealand national champ. I would love to also win the women's title! and represent New Zealand like he did. SURFING AND COMPETING... I love the traveling part of it, where you get to surf different breaks and meet new people. I've made a lot of friends around New Zealand with the girls I surf against and their families.
When I'm surfing, I love the feeling when you catch a wave - the takeoff is a buzz. When I stand up, straight away I'm thinking of what moves I'm going to attempt and hopefully pull them off. Just recently I surfed in the WQS and the Australasian Pro Junior, that was the biggest event that I've been in and the experience was awesome and one day soon I would like to be competing full time in those events along with Ella Williams and Paige Hareb. LIKES AND DISLIKES I like watching surf vids, and learning new stuff at surf training seminars. When the surfs not good, I hit the skate park or chill at home. My biggest dislike is when
WORDS: JAMIE 'CHIP' ANDREWS PHOTOS: DAISY DAY
you're surfing crowded places and get dropped in on or sworn at by potty mouths... That's really sad! Coz us grommets aren't so bad - just keen for waves like them. ANY LAST WORDS? I'd like to thank my family who have put time into me and got me around places, my sponsor Beach Street / Blacksand Surfboards for helping me with my boards and their support, Daisy Day for cool photos, WBBRC for all their kind support and Surfing Taranaki for giving me the opportunity to train with Matt Scorringe that helped a lot with my technique.
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H A Y L I E
P O W E L L
She may be small in stature but little Haylie Powell has a big ticker. This 8-year old dynamo is fearless, super-competitive and looks to have one promising surf career in front of her. Haylie’s parents, Heidi and Pete, first introduced her to surfing through the Quicksilver Surf Groms program. They saw it as a great opportunity to teach Haylie water safety whilst learning to surf. Pete is an avid surfer himself and Heidi occasionally gets out on a mal. Living near the beach, both were keen for Haylie to get an understanding of the ocean. Through the Surf Groms program, the Powell’s were introduced to the Wahu Surfer Groms Comps, which are fun yet competitive surf contests for kids under the age of 16. Haylie was six when she first competed in an under-7 mixed competition, placing 2nd. As mum Heidi explained, “She loves the atmosphere of the contests and meeting kids who share her love of surfing. Haylie is so energetic with such a fun yet competitive nature. She has now competed in three Wahu competitions and in April came 6th in the Billabong OZ Grom Comp Under 10 Girls held in Coffs Harbour.” Recently Haylie started attending the OPC (Ocean Performance Centre) in Maroochydore - essentially a gym designed for surfers - under the tutelage of renowned surf coach and former champion longboarder Grant Thomas, head of the elite squad division.
“We decided to get Haylie a coach. Sometimes it’s hard for fathers to be both a dad and a coach... Haylie attended a two-day surf camp put on by the OPC and received ‘Champ of the Camp’. This was for overall performance in and out of the water. We are obviously incredibly proud.” When Haylie is not in the water she is on her skateboard. Pete recently built Haylie a four and half foot quarter pipe in their backyard. Heidi adds, “Pete uses it a fair bit as well. Plus, having the skate ramp has given us a little more time as some days - we can drive up to 150km a day taking Haylie to school, surfing, gym, soccer and skating. That said, we're happy to support her in her journey. She has such a dedication to, and love of surfing and sport in general. Pete and I are both shift workers so we juggle our shifts to take her to boardriders once a month and attend competitions.”
NAME: NICKNAME: BEST WAVE: LOCAL CLUB:
Haylie Powell Pocket Rocket, Microgrom Rights at Johnson's (Noosa) Coolum Boardriders
BEST THING ABOUT SURFING: Having fun with my friends and meeting new ones during competitions.
TOP LEFT: Haylie knows that with hard work comes rewards. ABOVE: What a dad... A skate ramp out back! BOTTOM LEFT: Mates - Haylie, Lilly O'Sulivan and Kiahni Scott
Haylie is also very supportive of her own friends and family. We noticed only late last year she won a Trilby Misso Community Hero Award having saved her pocket money over the year to help send local teen surfing champion Isabella Nichols (an older member of her Coolum Boardriders) to the World Titles as well as buying pet food for needy animals at the local RSPCA. It's clear to us she's already a champ, well before she's even stormed the world surfing stage. DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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KEELY ANDREW from the Sunny Coast is a ripping surfer and Hive Swimwear model, sporting comp results that include a 3rd at the Swatch Girls Pro in France in 2013 and a wildcard entry at the 2014 Roxy Pro. At the time of going to print, Keely was leading the Australasian Pro Junior Series and was 13th in the WQS division, firmly set on advancing to pro CT level and challenging the best in the world. This dedicated young lady is driven by family values, cross trains three times per week and loves skipping...
Photo courtesy of Hive
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Following a major health scare several years back, Kymie turned to surfing to aid her recovery. In turn it inspired her to start her own company, which is committed to assisting others live their life to the full. “Surfing to me is everything, it clears the mind and soothes the soul. It was the one thing that pulled me through a life threatening health hurdle. It teaches us to live in the moment and that our health is essential. “I wanted to share what I learnt with others and educate them on the benefits of living life through active, physical pursuits, so I started See You Out There.”
Photo: Peter Hogg
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Kym’s company sells a range of surf gear from rash vests and wetsuits through to her own line of organic products to provide relief from stings from the likes of bluebottles and treat sunburn and sore muscles. Most recently she commenced work as a nurse and a wellness coach and has many other
plans underway including the launch of a “Companion Ship! Don’t bail, just sail” whereby sailing days and surf lessons will be conducted. If that wasn’t enough, she is also writing self-help books and continues to develop her Surf Cruiz Aider, shown above. “The Surf Cruiz Aider is for those who can no longer surf or to entice potential new surfers with a bit of land cruising to gain confidence before venturing into the water. It also doubles as a neuromuscular balance board, which in time we hope we can use to enable those suffering from MS or other auto immune conditions to have some fun create some ‘e’motion, and bring on the happiness straight away.” www.seeyououtthere.com.au
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Get back to surfing’s roots... H
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with paulownia
WORDS: DAVE SWAN
It's funny when you consider the popular perception that there is a massive divide between surf lifesavers and surfers. Personally, I believe you can't ever call yourself a true waterman/ woman unless you're skilled at bodysurfing and riding all manner of surfcraft. “A big part of surfing is being able to read the ocean and of course in surf lifesaving, we must be able to race in it as well so it goes without saying that it is handy to be good at both.” Hannah finished ninth in her first year in the recent Nutri-Grain IronWoman Series, and has plans to keep working her way up the ranks. Photos courtesy of Hannah Minogue
Taking that one step further, I insisted my children undertake Nippers (surf lifesaving for young kids) before they ventured into the surf with surfboard under arm. My reasoning was, if you don't understand the ocean and the waves, how can you expect to ride them? If you haven't developed your body through both swimming and paddling, how are you going to paddle onto a wave, or survive if your legrope snaps, or your board breaks? Ohana Athletics sponsored athlete, Hannah Minogue, had parents who felt the same. Growing up in Thirroul - a northern beachside suburb of Wollongong - Hannah’s dad had been an active member of the local surf lifesaving club and so it was his kids, son Josh and daughter Hannah, became members too. “My parents wanted me to be confident out in the water because from when I was very little, the ocean was such a big part of our lives. It was just such a natural thing to be a part of living so close to the beach.
“I've set some goals to achieve in surf lifesaving and will keep working hard until I do. With that, surfing will continue to be my way of relaxing and simply enjoying the waves outside the pressures of competition.”
“Dad had us undertake surf lifesaving so that we could be relatively safe out in the water. My love of surfing followed. To my brother and I, they just went hand in hand. Surf lifesaving became our sport and surfing became our way to relax and just have fun.
Hannah Minogue, an approachable, friendly and inspiring young lady, is proof there's not some huge cultural divide between surfing and surf lifesaving. Indeed, the two in fact go together rather well.
Native Hawaiian surfer with alaia board, circa 1911
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Buy the Best Paulownia Timber Australia has to offer. DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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N a d i a
A n d e r s o n
Born in West Java, Indonesia, Nadia Anderson grew up on Australia's Sunshine Coast. But the call of the motherland was strong, and Nadia now lives back in Indonesia with her husband Evan, where they opted for a quiet life and now operate an accommodation and restaurant business.
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"I moved back to Indonesia almost eight years ago," Nadia tells. "Whilst in Bali, I worked for Billabong, but realised how hectic life was getting, so I quit my job and moved back to the small coastal village of Cimaja, where I'm currently privately teaching Kindy, surfing every day and living a much healthier and happier lifestyle."
" We both had young families," Mitchell recalls. "I built a series of balsa boards from native balsa there at Cimaja. It holds a special place in my heart - the only place I have ever shaped boards while watching waves and riding them."
The boards Nadia rides are made by her "Uncle Mitch"- none other than Outer Island shaper Mitchell Rae, who came to know her husband Evan's family many years ago on his travels in Indo.
"I'm a natural footer, so Cimaja is just the perfect place for me," saus Nadia. "Although, I do aspire to keep traveling around the world and hopefully experience the vast, vibrant cultures in today's world and surf other awesome waves that are just waiting for me!"
And the same waves are ridden now by that next generation.
Nadia shows off her Bali-built 5’10 Outer Island Smartboard, which she rides with style and grace, owning her local break, Cimaja.
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Photo: Mick Curley Room upgrades, construction of pool and Green Iguana Bar and Restaurant complete by June 1, 2014 DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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TRAVEL: ON AN ISLAND
You formerly live on a solar-powered organic farm on Hawaii’s big island before moving to the Mentawai Islands to help build a surf resort. But, after three years you discover it’s becoming too commercialised, so you motor around on a houseboat you refashioned from an old fishing boat. For the next three years you work for Surf Aid, until you eventually lay anchor settling on a 20-acre private island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Suffice to say, you want to live life OFF THE GRID.
Photo: Marcus Halliday courtesy of Togat Nusa
WORDS: DAVE SWAN PHOTOS: MARCUS HALLIDAY & SJ
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Photo: Sj (Sarah Earl), courtesy of Togat Nusa
TRAVEL: ON A BOAT
Together with her husband John, they are real life Robinson Crusoes who have created an island sanctuary nestled amongst the palm trees, ringed by a brilliant white sandy beach, crystal clear water and perfect uncrowded waves. In short: every surfers dream. Togat Nusa resort is stunning… Make that incredible. The four private bungalows and main building, hand-built by John, have been amazingly created using driftwood and salvaged timber with custom-built furniture and antique lighting and fixtures left over from Dutch fishing vessels. As one guest stated, “The whole resort is like a piece of art... The owners have a story worthy of a book, and you can really see who they are in the spirit of the island.” Ainsley and John just may have found the most peaceful place on earth.
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Photos: Marcus Halliday courtesy of Togat Nusa
Photo: Sj (Sarah Earl), courtesy of Togat Nusa
MANY CRAVE THE SIMPLE LIFE, BUT DON’T ACT. WHAT WAS THE MOTIVATION TO ‘REMOVE YOURSELF FROM THE GRID’? “There was no significant event, just an ongoing downward spiral in our community back home. We wanted to get away from the craziness of modern society. You know the dream - we wanted to step back in time and live a simple life. We had the desire to just surf and be sandy. That’s what lead us to create Togat Nusa.” HAVING MADE THE MOVE, HAS IT BEEN ALL YOU HOPED? "Oh, the experience has been colorful and character building. It’s a long story but so worth it. I love my life and embrace all the decisions and experiences we have had along the way that have brought me here today. Life is full of highs and lows and for those of us ready to gamble, sometimes you just get lucky.
"Through experience we have learnt that even the best-laid plans don’t always work out the way you plan. Now we make plans, but not the outcome. We’ve learned to be thankful and appreciate what we have. After all, it could all change tomorrow and nearly always does." YOU’VE HAD QUITE A FEW ALL GIRL SURF TRIPS TO THE ISLAND? "I do try to rally the ladies a couple times a season. Our trips in general are even though, both men and women, possibly swaying a little more to the estrogen side. This is a perfect spot for women to come and be safe and comfortable. The island is private so there are no eyeballs staring when you are in your bikini. The MEN-tawaiis, is predominately male. This little paradise attracts the girls. "Aside from our tasty food, the other main appeal is the wave in that it has many faces but is very user friendly.” DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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TRAVEL: ON AN ISLAND
As they say, it is up to you to “lead the life you want to live”. The life Ainsley and John have dreamed for themselves is now their reality. How special this is, is best summed up by these two closing comments from visitors to Togat Nusa. “Paradise found. From the moment we set foot on the magnificent white sand we knew we were in paradise. Amazing people, incredible food and fantastic surf. The best thing about Togat Nusa though, is the people. John and Ainsley were just so laid back but made sure we had everything we could need.”
Photo: Marcus Halliday courtesy of Togat Nusa
“This place will restore your soul. A surfers Paradise is only part of this resorts attraction. Only a small island, this secluded utopia has a selection of hand-crafted bungalows lovingly crafted out of mostly driftwood and renewable resources. The accommodation is 5-star, while still giving you the feeling of being a castaway on a tropical island.”
To book your own trip to this little piece of paradise, simply get in touch with the good folks at World Surfaris and you'll be on your way in style. www.worldsurfaris.com For more information on the island, visit the Togat Nusa Retreat website... www.togatnusaretreat.com
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TRAVEL: ON A BOAT
A MALDIVES
SURF LIK GIRL'S SURFING EXPERIENCE
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Having worked in the Maldives for three surf seasons - two of those on the Liquid Destination boats - it was a natural fit for Danny, founder of Salt Gypsy, to set up an alternative female surfer’s trip embracing the Liquid ethos of chasing waves, enjoying a beer and hanging with your mates while exploring the atolls of the Maldives.
KE A GIRL Like Danny, there are girls who like a beer, fish on occasion, want to increase their surfing ability, surf in well-overhead waves and throw themselves into barrels, so she figured that rather than a candy-coated, pink-frosted surf experience, the Liquid Destination/Salt Gypsy surf trips are for those women. WORDS: DANIELLE CLAYTON, PHOTOS COURTESY OF LIQUID DESTINATION
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TRAVEL: ON A BOAT
CRYSTAL CLEAR
CRYSTAL WATER, NOT MUCH WIND AROUND,
EVEN THE
DOLPHINS
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CAME OUT. IT WAS A CLASSIC DAY IN THE MALDIVES.
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Danny gets barrelled
crew, we’d all brought along some neon surf gear for the first ever Fluro Friday to hit the Maldives. One Wave and their Fluro Friday gatherings began as a way to raise awareness about the stigma of mental health issues and to get people talking and engaging with each other through surfing. It's a fun way to start a conversation and put a smile on your dial every Friday. We had a bit of fun zinc-ing up and ended up surfing all day with a couple of breaks on the dhoni (transfer boat). The swell had picked up a bit and despite a bit of current at times, those were some of the best waves we'd had all trip. Super long, easy take-off, then walling up in the inside section. Crystal clear water, not much wind around, even the dolphins came out. It was a classic day in the Maldives.
We had the chance to run our inaugural women`s boat trip in the Maldives this year with the boys from Liquid, surfing by ourselves 98% of the time in some stellar conditions with fun, head-high waves throughout our seven days onboard. We drank cold beer, carbloaded at meal times and passed out early most nights from having surfed 5-7+ hours each day. Picking up the girls on the eve of our trip, it was a stormy welcome to the Maldives, which delayed our night mission out of Male. After a bit of travel to get to our isolated destination, we pulled into the truly postcard-perfect bay that would be our home for the first half of our trip, and all thoughts of anything
other than throwing ourselves into the water dissipated. As we were tag-team surfing our way through the next few days of epic sunshine and blue skies, a developing swell had us jumping off the back of the boat to paddle 20 strokes to the lineup. We even managed to go coconut-hunting on the island we had parked up at with the crew who deftly hacked up the coconuts for us to skull. The second half of the trip we pulled up anchor and checked out another spot a few hours away. As the only boat around, our “crowded lineup” consisted of six frothing women hooting each other into waves and trying to get to the racey, hollow inside section. There were a
few attempts at pulling into the super shallow barrels that were coming through this section but I think Liquid guide, Jade, was the only one to successfully pull into and out of any tubes that came through this day. We scored a Sexy Beach BBQ night with the Liquid boys totally spoiling us with dinner on an uninhabitated island. Epic sunset, cold beers from the chilly-bin, good crew, a beachsand shark handshaped by Koko The Captain, and sunset swims. Total icing on the cake. Our last full day on the boat was a Friday, and having prepped the girls on my recent meeting with Grant from the One Wave Is All It Takes
We finished up our trip back in South Male with a smaller swell, so a cruisy day of boat-jumping and snorkeling, with bit of a grovel surf for a couple of the girls. We all departed the Maldives with worked-out muscles, crispy skin, a few broken boards and ding repairs, new friendships and feeling very relaxed. “For me, it was a perfect way to kickstart our Salt Gypsy surf travel concept which is to provide exceptional surf experiences for female surfers and improve the surfing ability in everyday surfers. Teaming up with the Liquid Destination boys couldn’t have been better. And did I mention we surfed by ourselves the majority of our time? That’s priceless in my books.
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TRAVEL: ON A BOAT
LINE-UP
OUR “CROWDED LINEUP” CONSISTED OF
SIX FROTHING WOMEN HOOTING EACH OTHER INTO WAVES...
ABOUT SALT GYPSY
ABOUT LIQUID DESTINATION
“As modern female surfers, our discontent with the status quo compels us to create products and imagery we wish existed for ourselves. Our trips are designed for confident and competent surfers who want to join us in chasing swells, hunting barrels and surfing uncrowded waves. Our surfwear is designed from our collective experiences surfing punchy waves and pulling in. You won`t find us in some office far removed from the lifestyle we promote. Our office is the ocean. We offer bespoke surfwear and curate style in the lineup. Join the revolution.”
Liquid Destination specialise in unique outer atolls surf tours of the Maldives, including surf photography packages and uncrowded waves. For surf boat charters catering to all levels, get in touch and check out the website, filled with imagery captured from every corner of the Maldives. www.liquiddestination.com Liquid Destination
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P
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FLYSCOOT.COM DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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WORDS: KIM EULENSTEIN PHOTOS: JOEL COLEMAN SALTMOTION
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TRAVEL: ON A BOAT
Today we’re flooded with surfing images from all around the world. Every brand is pumping their athletes, their lifestyles and their beautifully designed bikinis shot on amazing tropical islands.
On top of that, there are thousands of Instagram, Facebook and Twitter accounts with the everyday person posting pics of their own winning waves, tropical holidays and amazing sunsets. We have all these pictures in our news feeds. We notice them in the shopping centres and the magazines, because they trigger something in us, being the surfers, the adventurers, the searchers that we are. We too want to be travelling the world, carefree, watching beautiful sunsets with friends and surfing amazing reef breaks. But is that trip to a tropical, uncrowded reef break just a dream? DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Lots of female surfers
out there dream of surfing an uncrowded tropical reef break but never really find the opportunity. Perhaps we just don’t feel comfortable heading overseas by ourselves, or on a 10-day charter boat to a developing country with a group of guys, even if in search of that perfect wave. In a lot of cases, unless you have your own female surf group to book onto an overseas surf trip, as a female you’ll find yourself with limited options unless you’re willing to hang with the lads.
Bec Woods
Woodsy (Bec Woods) and I had been thinking of a surf trip for girls to go on a holiday, have a good laugh, enjoy a few coconuts and score some amazing waves. The more we thought about it, the more we realised what we could offer. Woodsy has spent nine consecutive years on the World Tour, racking up a fair few frequent flyer points over the years. She’s also an accredited surf coach via Surfing Australia and a qualified surf lifeguard. Why not have Woodsy on the trip? Actually, why not invite a few other pro surfers along and give the everyday surfer girl the chance to surf with the World's best surfers? And why not have a professional surf photographer on the trip as well? Pro surfers, pro photographers, surf coaching, Fiji... Let's give the everyday female surfer the chance to feel
like a rockstar. Let's give the girls a chance to surf with the world's best females and get some amazing tropical reef break photos of themselves to put up on their walls at home. So that’s what we did. We sat down with the team at The Perfect Wave Travel Co. and locked in Waidroka Bay Resort in Fiji. I managed to twist my good friend Joel Coleman’s arm to come along. Joel – well known to Smorgasboarder readers as the man behind the lens for Saltmotion in Manly - is a regular traveller and photographer with Perfect Wave. So, Woodsy called on some of her fellow WCT mates Paige Hareb and Dimity Stoyle to come along and I got advertising via the Girl Surf Network.
A few months later we were in Fiji at Waidroka Bay Resort surfing shallow reefs just off the mainland or heading out to face the open ocean at Frigates with 5ft lefts peeling along the reef. Woodsy would sit in the channel giving us all pointers and egging us into barrels. Occasionally she would head into the line up and sneak in a few waves. She would casually take off on the rogue bombs and throw buckets across the lineup, just to keep it real. DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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We had beginners, intermediate, advanced and world-class surfers on the trip. We ate copious amounts of food and tried a bowl or two, or three of kava. We found a range of things to do when the surf was flat. Music, supping, snorkelling, even card games on the rained-out days. Not a day went past without a burst of laughter, a wave of the day and a wipeout of the day. And best of all, we tore apart the perceived divide between professional surfers and the everyday surfer girl. All in all, an amazing trip that will not be forgotten anytime soon.
MORE... For more about Kim's work with the Girl Surf Network visit the website or their Facebook page: girlsurfnetwork.com facebook.com/GirlSurfNetworkAus For more about The Perfect Wave see: www.theperfectwave.com.au And for more of Joel's photography: www.saltmotion.com
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Hayley and Mikala - the two young ladies behind SheSurfs - reckon they've discovered girl surfing heaven in the postcard-perfect paradise that is the Maldives. WORDS: HAYLEY SHAW MCGUINNESS PHOTOS: MIKALA WILBOW
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I had been to the Maldives on a girls trip with my friend Emily a few years earlier, so I knew that this was a place surfer girl dreams are made. Mikala had also been to the Maldives as a photographer, and her images from her trip took my breath away. So it was on: our first trip to the Maldives as Shesurfs. There is nothing quite like the Maldives, and boat trips are so damn fun – like a cruising, bikinibandit, floating surf adventure group. You go where the waves are breaking and the weather is best. The scenery changes every day and you create your own adventure. Rocking up to the Airport and meeting a new bunch of friends is rad to begin with. There’s plenty of time for bonding on the 8-hour flight to Singapore, and then the further 4-hour flight to Male. And I’m sorry to say that we are always the loudest group on the flights, getting to know each other between lovely airline meals and in-flight movies. When we arrive at Male airport we can smell, taste and feel the Maldives - it has a distinct feel, kind of like a big, warm, welcome hug. Greeted by a surf guide, we’re taken aboard the Dhoni to your surf charter boat, which will 76
be your new home for the week. The boat is super-comfy with aircon, lots of areas to chill out, and with three meals served a day, plus snacks, tea and coffee. Every day we wake to the sound of the anchor being pulled up, and bleary eyed, stumble upstairs to check out the conditions. Even when it rains in the Maldives, it’s beautiful, however this is usually just early morning and late night weather. Most of the time we’re blessed with sunshine and weather perfect for a tropical surf holiday. Around the morning coffee, plans are made for the day depending on tide, swell and surf levels. We surf before breakfast, and can pretty much surf your heart out all day, unless we decide to relax on one of the decks with a book, or just catch some sun. Jumping off the boat, visiting local islands, fishing, snorkelling and dolphin watching are all on the agenda. One of the best things for us in the Maldives is that there are so many options for all our levels of surfing - gentle waves like Quarters and Ninjas and then faster more solid waves like Kandooma and Cokes along with lots of wonderful spots in between like Jails and Sultans.
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I’m in love with the Maldives, there is no doubt about it! It is my favourite place on the whole planet to surf and to just be alive. Sometimes in the Maldives I just fall off my board and take a moment under the surface to take it all in. Take in the magic of what lies beneath the perfect waves. The clear water, the fish, the coral… I’m so thankful for being blessed to just be here. And is it really this perfect? The photos don’t lie. Hayley and Mikala had a desire to create a girls surf friendship circle and connect like-minded surfer girls all over the world. Shesurfs, born over coffee on a rainy winter day, has now led to trips to the Maldives with The Perfect Wave Surf Experience. www.shesurfs.com.au For more about The Perfect Wave see: www.theperfectwave.com.au And for more of Mikala's photography: www.mikalawilbow.com
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“Pam has become a very special friend to all of us and is very highly regarded, as she should be.”
THE RETREAT
This is the story of a former world champion and a “group of tragic older surfy chicks,” and how the time they spent together proved the spark that ignited the idea for the ultimate ladies’ surf retreat. WORDS: DAVE SWAN, PHOTOS: CLAUDINE THORNTON COURTESY OF THE RETRO RETREAT
Back in 2002, Roz Johnston and her partner Garry were in pursuit of a quiet coastal change. They packed up their family and moved from Wollongong to beautiful Mollymook Beach, just north of Ulladulla on the New South Wales South Coast. Settling into life in the magical Shoalhaven Shire, her kids expressed an interest in learning to surf. Roz picks up the story. “I found out through the school newsletter that former world champion surfer, Pam Burridge, ran the school surf lessons on Friday afternoon. I had seen her a few
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times picking up her own kids at our local public school and remembered feeling fairly privileged as a past admirer to have her grace our school. When it came to teaching my kids how to surf, I thought who better than a former world number one? “When I rang to book the kids lessons and first spoke to Pam, I was like an excited teenager. I could still recall when I was seventeen going to Sydney with my then surfer boyfriend and sleeping in the back of the car just so I could watch Pam in one of world circuit contests. I admit I did follow Cheyne Horan as well.”
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“Yep, we’re all total tragics and talk like young grommets when we are all together.”
So Roz’s association with Pam began in 2004, watching on with envy as her kids learned to surf with one of her teen idols. She was keen on learning to surf herself. One afternoon Pam mentioned she conducted a women’s group every Friday. Roz didn’t require any prompting. “If you ask Pam she will say my first few lessons were very bad and I was going to be a kneeboarder because that’s all I could do. But I became one of her keenest students, and was totally and utterly addicted. I never missed a Friday lesson come rain, hail or shine. “What I particularly loved best was mixing with such a lovely group of tragic older surfy chics just like me. We all had similar interests, all had kids, husbands and boring day-to-day tasks to undertake but then on Friday there was SURFING!!!! “After our surf each week we would religiously have lunch and coffee at Pilgrims (an extremely popular and highly regarded vegetarian café in Milton) and discuss our surf session. We would talk like young grommets reliving each session. “On one of the occasions there was only Pam and I. It allowed me to have a good chat about the operations of her surf school. Pam asked if I would be interested in undertaking the accreditation necessary to become one of her surf instructors. She didn't have to ask me twice, that night I booked my course/accommodation in Sydney for the next available accreditation weekend with Surfing NSW. I got my accreditation and have worked with Pam in the surf school for the past five years.” Through this time Roz has become one of Pam’s main instructors and started assisting her with the marketing of her business. Roz also introduced one of her close friends, Cheryl Hill, to Pam and
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she too soon became addicted to surfing and is also now an instructor at Pam’s surf school.
The birth of The Retro Retreat The inspiration behind the retreat was this regular gathering of women who loved to surf. With Pam being the exceptional teacher that she is, Roz thought it would be fantastic to introduce more women to surfing and enable them to share quality time together away from their busy and hectic day-to-day lives. The idea was to create an opportunity for women to bond and form or strengthen life-long friendships whilst sharing their passion for surfing, whether they were completely new to it or developing. The fact Roz and her partner owned a property near the beach was icing on the cake and so it was, The Retro Retreat was born. “The name just came to me one day when I was looking at the old house we owned at Mollymook. I imagined renovating it back to it's original glory. I loved the 60's/70's retro era, well most of it aside from the bad taste parts. “The house is now near complete. We are putting the finishing touches on it and are now ready to take bookings. With that said, we have already conducted two retreats at an alternative beach house close by. The last retreat we held was with some women from Canberra aged in the late 30s through to their late 50s. They loved it so much they have already booked again for this coming November.”
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TRAVEL: RETREAT
C Pam, up to tricks
A Roz
Details
Included is
The Retro Retreat is aimed at women 30-60yrs, from total beginners to intermediate surfers. The concept is a low-key weekend with like-minded women who just want to get away and either learn to surf or improve their skills. The retreat will be based at Mollymook Beach but guests will surf various beaches in the area depending on the local conditions. There is also the opportunity to get out on a paddleboard if you are interested.
•
Comfortable accommodation in a retro beach house
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All meals
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3 surf lessons with none other than former world champ Pam Burridge
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Transport to all beaches for lessons
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Softboards and wetsuits supplied
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A photo CD of the weekend
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Even relaxing after-surf massages are an optional extra
For more see www.pamburridge.com
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ROADTRIP
W ITH T HE G IRLS
Deja Pearson from Byron Bay journals a recent surf trip to Noosa Heads with a group of girlfriends.
O I L, W ATER, T Y R E S . CH E CK ! S U R F B O A R DS, B IK I N I S , PLAY L IST. D O U B L E C HECK ! It’s Friday night, work is finished for the week and four girlfriends from around the globe - Morgan (Canada), Isabell (Germany), Tess (Australia) and myself (the half-Aussie, half-South African) - are attempting to strap, pack and squeeze six surfboards, far too many clothes, food, bedding and ourselves into Boris, the beat up old Forester. After a slight squish and one last board check, we’re amped and ready to hit the road. Noosa in T-minus four hours! At around 11pm, Google Maps instructs us to turn off onto a dirt road and pull up at a house in the middle of nowhere to be sleepily greeted by friend and local longboarder, Wally. Bedtime proves what a girly weekend this will be as we opt to squeeze all four beds into one room so the slumber party can begin. Chatting about love, life and waves, we finish off the night by comparing different names for bumbags (by the way it’s a fanny pack, moon bag and a bauchbeutel... just in case you were wondering). The morning reveals just what a magical place we’ve landed in as we look out over the fields of this gorgeous ginger farm just 20 minutes from town. With a late start and even 86
later breakfast, we’re ready to check out the Festival of Surfing… Okay, maybe just one more boutique… Down at the beach the slightly onshore breeze ripples across a decent size set as the speakers announce that there’s 55 seconds left of the Womens Open Final, and a girl from Byron Bay is cruising along a face and getting some toes on the nose. The sun is high, the tide is on its way out and despite the wind direction, the swell seems to be picking up. A group decision is made to get amongst the waves ourselves and we head around the point towards Tea Tree Bay. Boards tucked up under our arms, heading through the paperbarks and pandanus we reach Boiling Pot and catch the first glimpse of a protected bit of swell wrapping around the point. Not far now until we can launch ourselves into those enticing aqua depths! After finding our spot amongst the trees, home base is set up on the grass. I shake out my longboard lugging arm, wax up my board and adorn myself with a healthy dose of sunscreen and sand whilst we discuss our paddleout options. After a somewhat ungainly entrance over the rocks, which Morgan aptly describes as us "looking like we are walking blindfolded in heels across a lawn covered with pebbles” and we’re in. Tess is keen for a bodysurf, whilst Isabell starts straight up at the point while Morgan and I sit further in, waiting
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for some wide ones to come through as we suss out the scene. The waves are picking up along with the crowds and I’m finding the three-person take-offs a little daunting for my current surfing confidence, so I sit patiently, a little too much on the outskirts, but comfortable and happy in the safe zone for now.
I’m leaving now’ gesture. After setting up some breakfast snacks in the National Park, Isabell performs a quick duct-tape fix on Morgan’s surfboard that has accumulated some mystery dings, and then we are off again on another Tea Tree mission.
A lull in the sets encourages a little sea turtle to pop its head up between us, before ducking back down just in time as an overhead set comes through big and wide. A longboarder takes off flying along in front of Morgan and I, keeping high, he is laid back and styling, “whoa", we both mouth as we get completely wiped out by the aftermath. Paddle, eskimo roll, repeat. Through the thick of it, I’m keen to pick off some inbetweeners and after a few failed take offs, I paddle, I’m on and a part of the action. Meandering back to the contest sight, listening to the final commentary and smashing some satisfactory burgers, we debate whether to stay and party on or go home, shower and get sparkly first. The decision is made for us by Wally: “You girls better go home and freshen up before the party!” Okay, hint taken. With all sand and salt removed we’re back in the heart of Noosa, following the crowds and sounds down to the beach. A psychedelic ‘70s-inspired band is owning the stage as Wally shouts a round of beers and introduces us to the local longboarding crew. All too quickly the band is wrapping up and there’s a mass exodus to the pub up the road. The vibe is high and we get down to a pumped rockabilly band. Dancing turns to moshing, tequila and too many failed attempts at the upside down selfie… Time to call it a night. Day two and we still haven’t knuckled down the early rise, finding ourselves circling the Noosa beach car park in search of a friendly “Yeah,
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5 STEwART RoAD, CURRUmBIN QLD • CALL US oN (07) 5534 3777 Some of the swell has decided to stick around, but the onshore is all over it. Isabell and Morgan paddle out undeterred, whilst I swim and Tess fiddles with the camera setting trying to get an action surf shot. No luck this time. The girls are out after half an hour of battling the crowded chop. Our fortunes do seem to change however as surfer, Julian Wilson, with film crew and entourage in tow make their way towards us. Isabell’s camera, we discover, has a pretty amazing zoom and the four of us are caught checking out some prime wetsuit bum. Deciding to leave on a high, we hit the road for home. Driving through the Gold Coast we see a big thunderstorm brewing and cross our fingers, hoping that we reach Byron Bay before it does. We do. Just. A minute into unloading the car the deluge begins. We're home, drenched and happy, promising that soon we will do it all again.
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LENNOX HEAD, NSW GREAT SURF AND A GREAT FAMILY HOLIDAY SPOT
FACT: Lennox Head is also home to the
All Girls Surfriders Club, formed in 1992. With members from 6 to 60, from beginners to elite, the club was responsible for launching the largest and longest running all girl surf contests in Australiasia, The All Girls Surf Showdown, from 1993 to 2012.
GREAT WINTER SURF ESCA PES
Heralded as one of Australia's premiere surf breaks, and indeed listed as one of the top 50 surf breaks in the world, Lennox Head is a true gem for so many reasons. It also has the illustrious privilege of being recognised as a National Surfing Reserve and in our books, home to one of the best holiday parks in Australia.
THE SURF
WHAT WE LOVE
… because frankly, that's what you are there for particularly if you are reading this magazine. There are quite a few options in the local area. From north to south:
Ballina Street is a casual yet trendy little café and shopping strip in the heart of Lennox
In the event you have copped a few too many dumpers in your time, Lennox is located 21 km south of Byron Bay and just north of Ballina on the Far North Coast of NSW. It is about an hour south of the Gold Coast’s Coolangatta airport.
Seven Mile Beach has a number of fun beachies, and there are some particular good banks of late. It’s less crowded then the point and suitable for beginners through to rippers. Lennox Point, first surfed in the 1950s, is renowned for its long, powerful, smoking, righthand point break. It holds up to 15ft and is near perfect at 8ft. In fact, it is perfect and a good wave here will be in your memory forever. Be wary of the boulders though, without doubt they'll get you, at some stage. Or, if you forget your manners, the locals will. Further south, there is the super challenging yet rewarding Boulders and Flat Rock, which provides suitable conditions for all levels. The most important thing to note when surfing this region is “respect”. The locals have it wired so be polite and wait your turn.
Lake Ainsworth, just a kilometre along the beach, is a freshwater, family- friendly lake perfect for swimming and paddleboarding as well as picnics and BBQs along its shady banks.
LAKE AINSWORTH HOLIDAY PARK A cracker! Park features: •
lake frontage
•
direct access to the beach
•
holiday activities for children
•
walking distance to town centre
•
17 villas and cabins (including deluxe 6-person family villa), powered and unpowered sites
See the website for more: northcoastholidayparks.com.au
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THE SURF GIRL WITH THE
PHOENIX
TATTOO Simon Kettle chats to Tanya Davarle about surfing, skateboards and plenty of body art
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SKATEST: LOCAL
TANYA DAVARLE feels right at
home surfing on the Sunshine Coast, Queensland. A great variety of waves to surf, warm water and friendly people just makes life so enjoyable. I don’t think she’ll be heading home to her native New Zealand anytime soon, even though she really misses her family back home. The former NZ number four ranked junior ladies surfer grew up on the rugged west coast near the tiny town of Glinks Gully, which is notorious for shipwrecks but it’s also where she first took to the onshore waves as a four year old, standing up and riding a boogie board! By seven, Tanya was pestering her fisherman father for a surfboard and although he could see his daughter’s love of the ocean life, like him, things were pretty tough and he just couldn’t afford one. As fate would have it though, on a trip one day to the local rubbish dump she found (and still rides today) a surfboard which she affectionately calls ‘Pigdog’. It was on this board, that she bogged up herself with paper and glue, that she taught herself how to surf. She quickly progressed through her teen years and entered into many competitions but somewhere along the way Tanya lost her passion for this type of surfing lifestyle and even gave wave riding away altogether for a while. Now, settled in Australia with her partner and a job she loves, she’s once again found her feet and can regularly be spotted catching waves at her favourite surf spot at the bluff, Alex Headland. It’s at Alex that I catch up with Tanya to discuss life, love, making skateboards and all things surfing. WORDS: SIMON KETTLE
SURFING "I started surfing in competitions in High School. I just decided to go in this school comp on a bit of a whim and thought it would be funny. I’m actually quite competitive, especially against the boys (laughs). You know, ‘girl power’ and all that kind of thing. I ended up coming fourth against all the boys. I next entered the Scholastic Surfing Comp which is known in New Zealand as a ‘regional’ event. It's all the schools in the North Island, and I ended up winning it in my first year. So that was pretty cool. "The next event was the Nationals Schools Championships, held at Westport. The surf was huge, and I was lucky enough to get through my first few heats, ranking seventh in the U18 juniors that year. After that I thought ‘Wow, I’m only fifteen and finishing seventh in New Zealand,' so I wrote to a local shaper Roger Hall, and asked him if he’d like to sponsor me. He rang and asked me and my parents to come over to meet him, and he ended up making me my first 6’ custom board, and gave me some clothes. I ended up designing my own graphics, which was pretty cool. My final year in juniors I won my third straight regional title and went away again to the National at a place called Rocky Lefts. After making it through the first few rounds, the swell picked up to about eight foot and was just sucking and exposing the rock platform. I paddled out, caught one wave and then came in and didn’t go out again. I know a lot of being a competitive surfer
is to go out in any conditions, but I just thought I don’t want to do it anymore. I took six months off surfing at this point and took up a Diploma in Sport and Leisure, but entered one more competition before I turned eighteen, which was the New Zealand Women’s Surfing Championship. After that I pretty much gave up competitive surfing because I wasn’t enjoying it and went sort of ‘soulful’.
ONSHORE When there’s nothing to do I have my skateboards, my snowboard and my BMX. This was back in NZ, so I liked mountain biking, but I am thinking about getting another one now that I am here on the Sunny Coast. If it’s onshore crappy surf then I’m always happy to skate here. I also like spending time with my girlfriend, watching DVDs and cooking.
SURFGIRL POWER It’s a lot better than when I was growing up... There was nothing. Now there’s female-orientated surfing magazines, which is great. You still get ‘you’re Billabong girl in her bikini’ and that sort of thing, which is just natural. Of course a professional female surfer is going to have a great body, and guys like seeing girls in bikinis just like girls like seeing boys in there boardshorts with their six packs out. You’re always going to have that, but female surfing has just grown and blossomed and I think it’s really good how I’ve always felt accepted in surfing. I don’t look at myself as a female surfer, I just look at myself as ‘a surfer’.
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TATTOOS I got my first tattoo when I was eighteen and it’s a ‘Celtic band’ around my arm that I designed myself. I spoke to Mum and Dad and said to them, ‘I'm either going to get my eyebrow pierced or a tattoo, which one would you prefer me to get?’ They said, ‘tattoo’ but thought I’d come back with a tiny butterfly or something but then they saw what I had when I came back! So, I gave them a choice. (laughs) Then I got addicted. I was the youngest in my family, but always a bit of a wild child. I like expressing my art and I like being a bit different which is why I designed all of my tattoos. There were not many people getting tattoos when I started like there are today. I’m not really into the ‘old school – new school’ tattoos like the old sailing ships, owls, panthers… Most of my tattoos have some kind of meaning to me. Most are black and white, with the only one with colour being on my chest. It has six butterflies and that represents my family members and they are in in the shape of an ‘S’ which is for my sister Sonia who died of breast cancer. I chose butterflies because Sonia had tattoos on her back. I have my parent’s initials on my wrist, a catholic sleeve which is connected to my family heritage. I don’t want to look back when I’m 70 and have something that is stupid that’s gone out of fashion. I don’t think religion is going to go out of fashion and I really like the symbolism. On my rib cage I have a phoenix being chased by a dragon, and I have the map of New Zealand on the back of my left calf, so I never forget where I came from. On my feet are my latest tattoos that I had done in Bali of Hindi writing, Buddha, waves, the lotus flower and cherry blossoms. I’m going to continue to go around up my leg when I return to Bali.
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THE ART OF MAKING SKATEBOARDS I have been skateboarding since I was four or five years of age and I remember when I was a teenager my Dad telling me that it was quite easy to make a ‘skateboard press’, to put the kick in the tail. When my sister was sick, I was looking after her children quiet often. Together we started doing some art projects and one of the ways we connected was with making skateboards. They were too expensive to just buy in a shop, so I decided to make a press out of marine plywood and put together some of the big fat boards that have become trendy again. When I started making them, they weren’t cool at all. I also included a full concave in the deck and the kick in the tail and put it all together with glue. I’d then clamp it all down, leave it overnight and the next day I’d come in to shape it. Friends and family would give me old trucks and wheels, and then I’d do the artwork. That’s how I really got started making the boards and just doing it for fun. I’m really into making the big, fat, old-style boards. I take them out and have fun doing snakies and slides and stuff like that. I recently made myself a cat bowl skateboard deck because my girlfriend bought me a new hairless cat. I’ve cut out two holes in the deck for the bowls to go in and friends who have seen the board think it’s pretty good and I should start selling them so, I might do?
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brochu
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SA STREETS RACHEL ANDERSON SUPS. It’s perfectly suited to the Adelaide beachside suburb she calls home. Calm water lapping the white-sand coastline lined with bars, cafes and fine restaurants form the perfect backdrop to a leisurely or vigorous paddle, depending on her mood. And now, Rachel’s love for paddleboarding has spawned a new interest in ‘land paddling’.
“A skater rode past my mates and I one day and we talked about getting skateboards. We had heard about Street SUPs, and as we are all paddlers, we thought that could be a fun dry activity to get involved in. Anything different is always a good spectacle and a bit of fun!”
Rachel and her mates bought some Street SUP gear and started cruising the Coast. The area she lives is also perfect for street SUP-ing. Rachel immediately fell in love with it and was excited about a possible new business venture.
“As a teacher with a few different jobs on the side, I was looking for the next big thing that I could take in to schools during the holidays. I had worked with sumo suits, giant board games and other random ‘things for kids’ and was after something that no one else was doing. I thought this could be it. “I ordered 10 Kahuna Longboards and Big Sticks and began STREET SUP SA. I then got as many people of all ages out and about on the boards to see the best way to run the program. I’m yet to have someone not enjoy it, and I’ve had 5 year olds to 55 years up and riding! The Kahuna Big Stick gives an extra point of contact on the ground, which can get even the most unstable person up and riding. It’s the funnest way to get around!”
NAME:
Rachel Anderson
LOVES:
Paddleboarding and Street SUP-ing
STREET SUP SA are hiring out along the coast and running school programs throughout Adelaide and suburbs. Those interested can call Rachel on 0431 899 038 (after 3pm) or get in touch via her facebook page, www.facebook.com/StreetSUPSA
BASED:
Henley Beach, South Australia
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THERE’S
NOTHING TO SEE HERE... With nothing to compromise your creativity, the new gearbox disappears into your design rather than distracts from it, while providing more strength and structural integrity than you’d ever expect from any professional fin box.
Introducing the NEW and IMPROVED
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info@gearbox-surf.com
WWW.GEARBOX-SURF.COM SHAPERS... CONTACT US FOR AN INTRODUCTORY STARTER KIT
DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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W O M A N 'S
W O R K
DESPITE THE INFLUX of females taking to the waves and our success in the field of competitive women’s surfing, surfboard shaping has remained the exclusive domain of men, at least in this country in a commercial sense anyhow. Three young Californian ladies however have managed to break into the male dominated world of surfboard manufacturing. Ashley Lloyd Thompson (nee Lloyd), Christine Brailsford and Kelly Connolly have already made a name for themselves for the stunning sleds they create. We caught up with both Ashley and Christine to discuss their passion for the art of handcrafting surfboards. WORDS: DAVE SWAN
ASHLEY LLOYD THOMPSON HAVING first came across Ashley’s boards even before we started SMORGASBOARDER, I was instantly blown away by the craftsmanship. From that moment on I wanted to know more about this amazingly talented lady and how she came to enter such a male dominated industry. Ashley Lloyd - now Lloyd Thompson - having married her equally talented surfer/musician partner Chris Thompson, first learnt to surf in Malibu. Her mum loved the beach and viewed it as the perfect playground for her kids. Her favourite spot was Paradise Cove in Malibu. A young Ashley, having made her fair share of sandcastles and the like eventually followed her older brother, Tim, into the ocean and began to surf. Ashley became obsessed, started competing at age 15 and by the time she was 96
20, was ranked amongst the world’s top ten women longboarders. This is where her adventure into the world of shaping also began back in 2002. Since then she's transformed a parttime hobby into a full-time career. Ashley thought “it would be cool to shape a surfboard” but didn’t think it possible to make a career out of it until her “silver-haired, kind-spirited and solemn surfing pal,” Danny Tarampi, asked Ashley one day if she would be interested in learning the art of shaping. In the years that followed she refined her skills, learning to not only “mow foam” but glass, sand and finish. In 2005, whilst studying music at Santa Barbara City College, Bing Surfboards’ head shaper, Matt Calvani, recognised her talent and not only signed her as a team rider but as a shaper with her own signature model. Ashley later moved north to the super cool surf town of Santa Cruz where she designed another Bing model, Dear & Yonder, named after the film
of the same name before establishing her own custom surfboard label, Ashley Lloyd Surfboards. Today Ashley divides her time between shaping, surf instruction and playing music with her husband in their band The Shapes. MUSIC, SURFING, SHAPING… DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE? When I was about 20 I really started playing guitar a lot and writing songs. The more I played and started playing with other people, the more and more I enjoyed it. Music has just become another great artistic outlet for me. I SEE YOU HAVE BEEN PLAYING A FAIR FEW GIGS AROUND YOUR LOCAL AREA... Yes, its a blast playing with The Shapes! The band was formed by my husband and I. He's a great songwriter, and it feels like something special when we make music together and get to share it with others. We do play mostly locally, but would love to go on a broader tour someday.
YOU'RE VENTURING INTO HIGH PERFORMANCE SHORTBOARDS AS WELL? I love shaping anything. The majority of the boards I make are longboards and eggs, but I love shaping everything. I now have a variety of models in most shapes and sizes, and continue to keep the box open to new ideas or shapes that are requested. WHAT AREAS OF DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION HAVE YOU FOCUSED ON OF LATE? (I LOVED THE LOOK OF THE FINLESS... ) A ton of people seem to order eggs lately. I have a pretty wide eggish longboard called the AAA.. shorter than your average longboard, and wider than the average egg.. it tends to be a cozy medium for folks to enjoy in a variety of conditions. Also, I have a "rectangle space ship"... based off of the mini Simmons design. The finless board is a continuous experiment upon the request of my husband who is also my main test pilot for new designs.
Photo: Tom Vos
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GEAR: SHAPING DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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GEAR: SHAPING
I have met several gals now that have shaped a board or so. It’s pretty awesome to see that there are more and more ladies becoming interested in shaping. I have a female apprentice now named Margaret Seelie. It takes a lot of boards and a lot of waves to learn how to shape a good one... When I started, it seemed as though I was the only gal, or at least that's what everyone would tell me. I'm sure there will be many more soon to come. I HOPE YOU DON’T MIND ME SAYING, BUT YOU'RE A GREAT ROLE MODEL TO MY TWO YOUNG DAUGHTERS. YOU HAVE PURSUED THAT WHICH YOU ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT AND APPEAR SUCH A GROUNDED, STRONG, CONFIDENT WOMAN AT PEACE WITH WORLD. HAVE YOU ALWAYS BEEN THAT WAY? Wow! That's really sweet. Thanks for your kind words. I'm human, so of course I've had challenges and hardships. Who feels it knows it... just life lessons. Everything in life is a lesson we could hope to learn from. I can't say I always felt grounded, strong and confident. My life's latest lesson has been to love myself. In our culture, we can be hard on ourselves if we don't succeed in society's expectations of ourselves. It has been helpful for me to recognise what I love doing and do my best at it... looking for the path that feels good to me. And if you have to do what you don't love doing… do your best at it! That's all we can do is our best and no more. We all make our own standards and find our own path... It’s important to love yourself throughout. Ashley undeniably shapes beautiful surfboards but most importantly seems such a beautiful person as well. We would also like to congratulate Ashley and Alex on the recent birth of their first child and thank her for taking the time, as the busy parent of a newborn, to speak with us.
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"ONE OF THE NEAT THINGS ABOUT SHAPING IS THAT YOU NEVER STOP LEARNING AND DISCOVERING"
DO YOU KNOW OF MANY OTHER FEMALE SURFBOARD SHAPERS?
Christine Brailsford
Photo: Furrow Surf Craft
CHRISTINE BRAILSFORD A lifetime of dreaming up surfboards has lead Christine into carving her own womanly touch into every contour of craft she now creates. As an eleven-year-old, Christine begged her mum to let her attend a YMCA camp to learn how to surf - she was fascinated by surfing and surfboards. When her parents helped her buy her first surfboard - a 6’8” pintail thruster - Christine came to realise however that not all were easy to ride for a beginner and this lead her to dream, filling the pages of her sketchbooks with the perfect craft for her. Fast forward to today and Christine is living her dreams, designing, crafting and riding the boards of her imagination. YOU STARTED OUT BY SHAPING A STUBBIE SINGLE-FIN FOR FRIEND. HOW DID YOU FIRST FIND YOUR WAY AROUND A SHAPING BAY? When I was a kid, I would dream up and draw surfboards in my sketch books. I learnt
ASIDE FROM SHAPING I BELIEVE YOU ARE ALSO A FREELANCE ARTIST?
by doing. Before I shaped my first surfboard, I shaped around 200 paipo boards and hand planes. Though they are very different from surfboards, I feel like they had helped my eyes to start seeing curves, what makes a board flow through water, and learn how to use the tools. I learned what a surfboard looked like by studying boards that I like. There are many subtle details to surfboard design, so being able to visualise what a surfboard looks like in my mind, helps me translate it into foam. My fiance, Manny, shapes surfboards for his label Mandala Surfboards. He has been shaping for over 12 years and though he never directly taught me to shape, he has been a wealth of knowledge in developing my understanding of surfboard design. He lets me quietly sit in the corner of his shaping bay and watch him shape. One of the neat things about shaping is that you never stop learning and discovering. Always continuing to grow, refine, and develop my craft is what propels me to go to work everyday.
My formal education is from the Laguna College of Art and Design - a BFA in illustration. So aside from shaping surfcraft, my other job is in freelance illustration and design. I UNDERSTAND YOU CONSIDER SHAPING A SURFBOARD TO BE THE MOST CHALLENGING AND REWARDING MEDIUM YOU HAVE WORKED WITH? I have always loved sculpture, particularly reductive sculpture. When I am shaping a surfboarder however, I am taking a chunk of foam and sculpting it with heavy tools to create a beautiful craft that is built to flow through water. There are many variables in shaping a board for a specific wave and rider. It is a great challenge to do so, but very rewarding when I have created a board that gives the rider tremendous joy. WHAT'S THE THINKING BEHIND YOUR SURFBOARD DESIGN? Living in Leucadia (a beach community located in the coastal city of Encinitas in San Diego County) the waves are mostly small and soft, so I am focusing on shaping and designing boards for our local waves –
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GEAR: SHAPING
THANKFULLY we do have a lady working in the surfboard manufacturing industry here in Australia, not as a shaper but one exceptional glasser. We introduced readers to the extremely talented Teena McIlveen in our specially themed Gold Coast Spring Edition last year. Teena works at Steve del Rosso’s Clearwater Surfboards factory on the Gold Coast where she creates amazing resin art on surfboards she glasses.
predominantly a variety of stubbies and fish style boards that are easy to catch waves on, easy to turn and have a lot of drive, essentially surfboards broken down to their most simple and functional form. I love the aesthetic of simplicity and focusing on the shape and the form. With my boards I keep them clean glass, clean colour, very minimalist, just focusing on the form and purity of it. I’ve always enjoyed that aesthetic. I want to keep focusing on the design and the form and not have anything take away from it.
"EVERY COLOUR LAYERS DOWN DIFFERENTLY...EACH KIND OF HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY" Teena McIlveen
Photo: JP St Pierre
Photo: Mark Chapman
AS FOR WHAT CHRISTINE’S COMPANY IS CALLED... SHE EXPLAINED THE NAME “FURROW SURF CRAFT”. In farming, furrows are the trench in the ground that they plow to plant the seeds... Growth and renewal - that’s the big idea of the name. My ancestry are farmers from England, and that’s where the logo derives from. In my art, I have a lot of circle carving lines that are interwoven. That’s how I developed the idea for Furrow, because the idea was that each experience that we have, either small or large or somewhat insignificant all build upon each other to create who we are and where we’re going. I like to think about that kind of stuff in life and in surfing. Surfing for me is a personal thing and it’s a fun thing. It helps me meditate. It’s kind of like these pathways that combine to create the bigger picture.
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TEENA MCILVEEN LOOKING AT YOUR WORK RECENTLY, IT REALLY IS STUNNING... YOU'VE TAKEN IT TO ANOTHER LEVEL AGAIN. IS IT THE CONSTANT PRACTICE OR SOMETHING ELSE? For me it has been both practice and experimenting. Obviously practicing the processes over and over again and wanting to be better than the last time you did it, definitely improves your skills.
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Then experimenting with new designs/layouts and ways to lay down colour. I'm someone that prefers to be challenged and to push the boundaries with ideas. Sometimes it works and other times you end up learning how to make it better or something new for another design. It's also important to have a good understanding of the colours and mixing them, both tints and pigments. Every colour layers down differently...each kind of has its own personality.
CHARLY MCMULLAN
YOU SEEM TO HAVE DONE A MOUNTAIN OF WORK SINCE WE LAST SPOKE. HOW MANY BOARDS DO YOU GLASS A WEEK? I do about 25-35 boards a week but it doesn't really gauge the amount of work that goes into the week. It depends on the amount of detail that goes into each board. For example a cutlap with a certain design and many colours to mix and lay may take up to three hours to do, just for one board. I also take time to discuss design and colour with some customers when they’re ordering a new custom.
Photos courtesy of Clark Surfboards
WHAT INTERESTS YOU ABOUT THE SURF INDUSTRY? The fact it was so laid back. There were no real rules other than "Don't hurt yourself" and it was such a good atmosphere. Being able to work in a relaxed environment that is associated with the surf and the ocean, makes it even better.
I NOTICED YOU HAD TRIED YOUR HAND AT SHAPING. HOW DID IT GO? Yes I shaped myself a little 5'6" x 20" x 2 3/8". It's pretty fun, may have a touch too much volume and I probably needed the tail to be foiled a little cleaner. WAS IT MACHINE CUT AND HAND FINISHED? I've spent some time learning the shaping machine and design program, so it was a good opportunity to make my own board. Design it on the computer, machine cut it, shape it, laminate it. HAVE YOU SHAPED ANY MORE ASIDE FROM THIS LATELY FOR YOURSELF OR FRIENDS? Nothing too recent, I have just shaped a couple for my friends but I have no aspiration to be a shaper. I like playing around cause its a challenge. I'm really happy on improving my resin art and expanding in that area at this stage. Just wait and see what the future holds.
WHAT DID YOU LEARN WHILST ON WORK EXPERIENCE?
PASSING ON KNOWLEDGE of hand shaping to the next generation is the only way true surfboard building can continue on to generations to come. Fortunately, while there are people inerested to learn - like young Charly McMullan here - then people like the Leighton and the crew at Clark Surfboards in Adelaide have someone to pass the knowledge on to. Charly - a student at Wirreanda High School - recently did some work experience at Clark Surfboards to see what goes on behind the scenes at a surfboard factory. James Ellis found out more.
"I THINK IF MORE GIRLS JUMPED INTO THE DEEP END AND TRIED IT OUT, THEY WOULD REALLY ENJOY IT" Charly McMullan
I learnt how to repair dings, shape the foam and fiberglass over some boards and some little things Leighton taught me to help make the repair and finshing touches even better I learnt that not everything at work has to be all uptight, suit and ties and full on business-type, because everyone I met was so nice and relaxed, but worked hard at what they do and still enjoyed it, DO YOU FEEL THAT MAKING BOARDS COULD BE A PROFESSION THAT GIRLS COULD DO? I think anyone can do whatever they would like - men and women - but I think if more girls jumped into the deep end and tried it out, they would really enjoy it. There wasn't a moment I wasn't having a good time. Board shaping also has a lot of imagination and creative work to it. I'd like to be able to get good enough at it, that I can travel around to massive surf spots, helping fix and repair boards with the knowledge Leighton, Mick and Rob gave to me, then hopefully settle down at a great surf spot, set up a shop and have an endless summer. I would also like to thank Leighton for all the help he gave me and giving me that awesome opportunity and making it an experience to remember. DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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“We have a particular model I have been refining for 3 to 4 years now called the Toi Toi. The board’s design incorporates what I think will assist women to surf easily. But I’m not talking about the little pro surfer girls who started surfing at a young age. I am talking about women who came into surfing when they already have an adult body.
Black Apache team rider Maya Simonovsky
DESIGNING BOARDS FOR THE GIRLS According to the Journal of Australian Strength and Conditioning and The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research in the United States, physiological differences between male and female surfers have been shown to exist. That doesn't mean there's a gap in skill between the sexes - just look at elite level competitors and female big wave surfers such as Savannah Shaughnessy, Maya Gabeira and Keala Kennelly... What is does mean however, is that the feminine physique does necessitate that certain design elements are taken into consideration when shaping a surfboard for a woman, particularly for a surfer at a recreational level.
WORDS: DAVE SWAN
"Generally girls don’t have the lower body, leg or core strength that a guy has and they’re not generally as aggressive when they surf. So with this in mind, the boards I make for girls are very different to the guys. "Specifically, it depends on the girl but in terms of a shortboard, I find the majority of girls need less foam in the engine room - the part of the board that transitions from a hard rail to a soft rail - but you still need to retain some volume near the stringer. A slightly flatter tail rocker is required to maintain some speed and sometimes girls' boards do well with a little hip in the tail. This facilitates quicker directional changes and helps to narrow the tail up when it is quite a wide board.
“The board features quite a full, wide tail and it doesn’t have a whole lot of tail rocker, just enough. It makes the board nice and easy to paddle and catch waves on. The nice big tail gets picked up by the wave, pushes you along and enables you to take off really easy. The nose is pulled in so you don’t have too much to deal with. “Typically, women have a lower centre of gravity and don’t fling their body around to surf like men do, and this is where this design came about. It's possible to stand on this board and let the board do most of the work for you. It turns really easy because it has that really nice round flowing tail. It has modern surfboard contours through the bottom so it runs efficiently but is set up in such a way that it is very easy to surf. “All in all it’s a little more refined than your standard minimal, with a little less volume, a pulled in nose, fuller tail shape and relaxed tail rocker; making it an easy to control, easy to paddle and easy to love surfboard.” Mike “Mickey T” Thomson, Raglan Longboards
"In terms of my longboards, which for me I predominantly shape logs, these don’t differ a hell of a lot to the guys’ boards." Jesse Watson, Black Apache Surfboards
We spoke with several local shapers about what aspects of design they focus upon for their female clients.
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"They need to be a bit narrower and lighter so they can carry them easily and you want them to be forgiving. Girls are fussier than guys with the finer details so it’s fun to make them happy.
GEAR: SHAPING
Photo: Sama Welsh
Photo: Phil Page
“My female customer’s boards feature quite smooth outlines, soft rolled rails and hard edges in the tail. Depending on the surfer they can be mild or wild.
“Pictured is my Performer model for one of my team riders, Abbie Firns. She recently came second in the Victorian state longboard titles. It’s 9’2” x 22” x 2 ¾” and features a teardrop concave into a rolled vee in the front, fading to a concaved vee bottom. Medium rail for paddling ease and forgiveness, medium tail and nose rocker to keep it lively in the pocket.”
"Naturally, it all depends on the level of surfer you are designing a board for because a fair few of the girls who ride my boards rip. Generally speaking though, for the average female surfer who likes getting out there, I strike a delicate balance between providing some added volume for paddling power without the board being too corky and cumbersome to maneuver. For this reason, I use lowish, boxy rails, so they are easier to get on edge."
"At the elite level there's not much difference between the girls and guys, so how I shape the boards really comes down to personal preference. In terms of recreational surfers, like so many of us, the things I tend to focus on for my female customers are to deliver some additional paddle power.
Nick McAteer, NMC Surfboards
Lee Cheyne, Lee Cheyne Surfboards
Chris Garrett, Phantom Surfboards
"That means putting a little more volume into the board but not to the extent they are hard to duck-dive and so there is still some sensitivity in the rails. Again it comes down to personal preference though and tailoring a board to suit the individual no matter what their gender."
"When building a balsawood board for a girl, I will always add a bit more volume to the board to compensate for the lower paddle power, even though there is a little more buoyancy in a balsa board anyway. A little more width and thickness always comes in handy when paddling for waves. "This little longboard is perfect for a beginner or the advanced girl, because it’s not too long to handle, but it has the width and thickness to give it some stability for paddling, catching and riding small and medium waves." Megan Usher
Mark Riley Riley Classic Balsawood Surfboards
Kaylan Dahl, Photo: Wilba
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
Length: 5’4” - 5’8”
THE AARDVARK
An extremely versatile, uper skatey and super fun, traditional style fish! Amazing in under shoulder high waves and surprising when it’s bigger! Great in fun size waves. Short flat and fast, with a resin stringer, Light 6oz/4oz trimmed lap glass-job, custom art by Tiphaine Flurette and handmade timber twin fins.
Chantala Welsh with her new Lee Cheyne 6’0” Photo: Sama Welsh
by Wayne McKewen
Mt Woodgee team rider Paige Hareb with the Aardvark. Photo courtesy of Mr Woodgee
GEAR S U R F B O A R D S This edition, we’re specifically showcasing surfboards for the ladies! So girls, get drooling over these amazing designs from across Australia and NZ. After a board tailored to the feminine form? These are the pages for you. There’s something for everyone here... Short to long, young and old, foam to timber and beyond. Enjoy!
Short and phat diamond tail perfect for those small grovel sessions. Flattened rocker for speed and a rolled vee for increased maneuverability. Burford PU blank 4 x 4oz deck and 4oz bottom. FCS II 5-fin. These little boards can put the fun factor back into a session with poor to average waves.
X5
X2 Length: 5’6” Width: 21 ¾” Thickness: 2 ¾” Nose: 17” & Tail: 16”
TWIN FIN FISH by Jordie Brown
Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads For a further fix for your board addiction, see the almost 200 board profiles online right now in our surfboards section at www.smorgasboarder.com.au. 104
Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au Join us on Facebook
*FREE SHIPPING! Australia-wide on
all Mt Woodgee stock boards up to 6’8! (Excludes Movement and clearance boards)
FREE SHIPPING!*
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, VIC 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392
E: hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com
www.hightidesurfboards.com
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POPTOP
by Matt Williams
X3
THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS
17 Allen Street, Caloundra QLD
Ph: 07 5492 5838 E: Williams.h.m@hotmail.com
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X1
Length: 6’4” and up
by Jack & Aaron Knight
SPACE CADET
P: 07 5576 5914 E: aaron@harvestsurfboards.com
HARVEST SURFBOARDS Christine Avenue, Miami, QLD
www.harvestsurfboards.com
Length: 5’10” Width: 21” Thickness: 2 5/8”
SMARTBOARD
by Mitchell Rae
3 or 4
OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS
7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW
outerislandsurfboards.com Ph: 02 6655 7007 E: info@outerislandsurfboards.com
outerisland.blogspot.com
DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS
V2 FLEX Designed for 10-year-old Kelsi. Easy paddling, stable, yet high-performance adn suited to beach break conditions. I use 4way Fin System as a standard to enhance the custom experience: www.4wfs.com
Custom handshaped to suit needs, body weight and fitness. Glass, light and strong. Forward control point with very fine tail rails to suit the girls lighter on the back foot. A sweet , ultra fast all rounder ,smooth as silk. Feel sensitive handling, tight arcs and the acceleration of the V2 Flex. Designed as a quad, can be ridden as a thruster.
Single Fin, hull bottom, with a bit of vee to get onto rail easier. Lots of area toward the nose makes it easy to cruise onto waves. Lovely, drawn-out yet balanced planshape allows this board to trim beautifully. Mid to down rail in the back through to an uprail in the nose blends the thickness into the deck. Box or glass-in single fin.
A custom for young Sunny Coast grom, Louella. A rounded square with flowing bottom contours for easy control and balance while getting the feel of moving up and back through turns and flat spots. Length: 5’4” Width: 17” Thickness: 2 ¼” ¼
X3
Length: 5’6” Width: 18” Thickness: 2 1/8”
by Dean Geraghty
GROM MODEL GERAGHTY SHAPES CUSTOM SURFBOARDS BY DEAN GERAGHTY M: 0422 442 044 E: info@geraghtyshapes.com www.geraghtyshapes.com 105
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FBT
NOSERIDER
SUP
4+1
SUREFIRE SUP
SUTHERLAND SHIRE, NSW
P: 0490 182 707 E: info@sfssurf.com W: www.sfssurf.com
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DCAL
Featured Artist LetMeSea Photography, Tracy Naughton ‘Pink Palm”
X3
Length: 5’11” Width: 20” Thickness: 2 ½”
www.ctrlv.com.au facebook.com/ctrlvptyltd instagram.com/CTRLVee E: dave@ctrlv.com.au
SARAH’S
A slimmed down version of our Nugget. This one was kept narrower than normal so Aislinn could get deeper strokes paddling - and so she can carry it down the beach. OceanFoam handshaped blank, 6oz cloth, wetrub finish. Speeedfins Fibreglass 115’s
A slighty narrower but thicker Frazfi Frazfish. OceanFoam blank, 4oz cloth with wetrub finish and Speeedfins. For Sarah, we pulled the outline in to make the board more responsive but added some extra foam to get her into the waves earlier.
The DCal is one tough hombre, made from high grade vinyl film that is UV stable, water proof & guaranteed to stick to your stick. Your art, our art custom made for your board – the possibilities are limitless.
The ultimate longboard style SUP. This Pig-style ‘70s-inspired noserider SUP has the wide point further down towards the tail for stability when up on the nose, with an extreme pin tail to keep you locked to the face. The nose has a large concave combined with the low rails to give this board an amazing amount of speed, control and manoeuvrability.
Length: 10’5” Width: 28” Thickness: 3 11/16” Volume: 125L Over the fibreglass, surfable, waxable, DCals. DCals. Customise your board with ConTRoL V. Length: 7’9” Width: 21 ¼” Thickness: 2 ¾”
AISLINN’S by Rory Oke
X3
by Rory Oke
OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 www.okesurfboards.com
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Length: 7’2” Width: 21 ¼” Thickness: 2 ½”
TOITOI
by Mickey T
RAGLAN LONGBOARDS
257c Wainui Road, Raglan NZ Ph: +64 (0)7 825 0544 Mob: +64 (0)274 460 396 E: mickeytsurf@hotmail.com www.raglanlongboards.co.nz
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A little more refined than your standard mini-mal, with a little less volume, a pulled in nose, fuller tail shape and relaxed tail rocker; making it an easy to control, easy to paddle, and easy to love surfboard. It’s an all-round shape that goes really well in a wide range of conditions for a wide range of abilities, and should be an essential part of your quiver.
WINTER SHORTY by Leighton Clark, Glassing by Mick Higgins
X3
CLARK SURFBOARDS
Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Rd, Hackham SA 5163
Available at
E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au M: 0422 443 789
www.onboardsurf.com.au
VOTED
online by you, our readers!
#1...
1 or 3
Length: 7’ Width: 20 ½” Thickness: 2 ¾”
by Mark Rabbidge
FATBOY
RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Bendalong, NSW Ph: 02 4456 4038 M: 0427 767 176 E:sales@markrabbidge.com www.markrabbidge.com
I recently shaped this for a regular customer’s daughter, who is quite tiny. Basically a 9’ mal scaled down to 6’, easy to paddle and get onto waves without the bulk of a longboard. Lowish boxy rails, similar bottom to my performance shortboards - flattish rocker, slight single into double concave, into vee with tail lift to let it run on the wave yet still feel quite responsive and easy to turn.
Ladies love a Fatboy - my most popular board, designed in ‘84 and still going strong for your everyday surfer. Catch more waves. Surfs most like a shortboard, but with great paddle power. Can surf all size waves with all around performance. Made here in Ulladulla. 3-fin setup or single fin.
An all-round board for any girl to trim, shred and improve their surfing, We love to work with you girls and guys, to design and build an Aussie made board for surfing in South Oz!!
3, 4 or 5
Length: 7’ Width: 21 ½” Thickness: 2 ¾” Length: 6’ Width: 20 ½” Thick: 2 ¾“
SHORT LONG
by Lee Cheyne
X5
LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS Ph: 0403 655 316 leecheynesurfboards.com
E: orders@leecheynesurfboards.com
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1+2
Length: 6’8” Width: 20 ¾” Thickness: 2 5/8”
by Nick McAteer
LITTLE PIGGY
NMC SURFBOARDS
Sheepwash Rd, Barwon Heads VIC P: 03 5254 1658 M: 0438 800 539
E: nmcsurf@bigpond.com www.facebook.com/nmcsurf
HOOPITY HIP
Length: 9’-10” by Jesse Watson
X1
BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS
@blackapache Look us up...
Ph: 0410 419 791
blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au blackapachesurfboards.com.au
What lady does not love something unique, that is one-of-a-kind? This completely handcrafted hollow wood construction old school single fin with 50/50 rails features a sparking gold pearl finish coat.
1+2
Pulled slightly in the nose and tail, wide point centre, a 50/50 rocker and rail combo make a really neutral feeling longboard with a long sweet spot to work from. The choice of the lighter logger or those who want that responsiveness of a slightly smaller log.
This Performer is for one of my Team riders, Abbie Firns. It has a teardrop concave in a rolled vee in the front fading into a concaved vee bottom. Medium rail for paddling ease and forgiveness. Medium tail and nose rocker to keep it lively in the pocket. Spray by Ack... A true hidden gem.
Spray deck and bottom, 2 x 4oz deck with 6 oz. bottom. Fin box with Glide 7“ custom centre fin and small FCS side fins. Smooth single concave bottoms with double barrel vee through the fins. For girls boards, I keep quite a smooth outline, soft rolled rails and hard edges in the tail a bit narrower and lighter. Forgiving and easy to carry.
PERFORMER by Nick McAteer
Length: 9’2” Width: 22” Thickness: 2 ¾” Length: 9’1” Width: 21 ½” Thickness: 3”
SINGLE
FIN by Steve-O
X1
WOODEN SURFBOARD SHAPES BY STEVE-O Ph: 0421 522 503 woodensurfboardsshapesbysteveo@gmail.com woodensurfboardsshapesbysteveo.com.au
SMORGASBOARDER | DEEP WINTER 2014
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Length: 10’ Width: 32” Thickness: 4 1/8” Volume: 156L
4 x tie down anchors for gear
THE SNAPPER
SURFBOARD
DINGS
tions airs & Restora
Custom designed in NZ by Andy Jordan.
Rep
New Zealand
X3
RAGLAN, NZ
The Snapper is an excellent choice for women, manageable both in and out of the water, looks great and provides plenty of stability. A must try! Nice easy flow. The 10` is shaped from a great 9’6” longboard rocker. The curvy outline, full nose and round tail with vee double concaves makes for a smooth ride with excellent flow. An easy wave catcher with loads of volume, suitable for novice riders 50-90kg or intermediate/advanced surfers 80-95kg.
RAGLAN LONGBOARDS 7 days, 10am to 5pm except winter - catch us if you can +64 7 825 0544
KAIKOURA, NZ
SURGE SURFBOARDS
Bust your board? Call us 24/7 027 428 7453
Queensland AGNES WATER/1770
REEF 2 BEACH
Mon-Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm 07 4974 9072
WURTULLA
NICHOLSON SURFBOARDS REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS
Mon - Fri 7-3pm, Sat 7-midday 0438 631 153 facebook.com/nicholsonsurf
MOFFAT BEACH
THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS
TAURANGA, NZ
(In NZ 0800 787 464) P: +64 (07) 5701953 M: +64 (027) 2433011 W: www.liquidstixx.co.nz
Reinforced rails, nose and tail
Monday-Friday 9am-5pm, Saturday 8am-12pm (07) 5492 5838
LABRADOR
CYCLE SURFBOARDS
Mon-Fri 9am - 5.30pm Weekends by Appointment 0401 016 088
SOUTHPORT
KOMA
Mon-Fri 9am -5pm, Sat 9am -12pm 0402 863 763
MIAMI
DINO’S DING REPAIRS
Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 12pm 0409 727 735
BURLEIGH HEADS
MT WOODGEE
1730 Gold Coast Highway (07) 5535 0288 Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm Sat 8:30am - 5pm
CURRUMBIN
MT WOODGEE 2 Stewart Rd (07) 5598 2188 Sun-Fri, 9am - 5pm Sat 10am - 4pm
MAXIMUM SURFBOARDS Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm Sat 10am - 3pm Sun by appointment 0400 338 098
BUSTED YOUR BOARD? GET IT FIXED HERE... New South Wales BYRON BAY
DR DING SURFBOARD REPAIRS
Mon-Fri 8am - 5pm Sat 10am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 2pm 0431 740 940
MC SURF DESIGNS
Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 1pm 02 6685 8778
YAMBA
PLANK SHOP 02 6645 8362
TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS Tues - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am - 12pm 0432 330 826
COFFS HARBOUR
SURF CRAFT REPAIRS
JIM NEWTON 4/6 Druitt Court Open most days, just call. 0402 864 062
CRONULLA
RILEY BALSA SURFBOARDS
WOLLONGONG
PHILLIP ISLAND
SKIPP SURFBOARDS
ISLAND SURF SHOP, COWES
Mon-Fri 9am - 5:30pm Thurs 9am - 7:30pm Sat 9am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 4pm 02 4228 8878
SHELLHARBOUR
BROWN DOGG 7 days a week - Just call 0416 455 985
JERVIS BAY
INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS Seven days, 9am - 5pm 02 4441 6756
Victoria BELLARINE PENINSULA
ROUSA SURFBOARDS Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm, 0403 693 333
ADELAIDE
WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS
Mon - Fri, 12.30pm - 5.30pm Sat 12.30pm - 5pm 08 8376 4914
MID COAST
THE DING KING Clark Surfboards Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm 0422 443 789
LONSDALE
MID COAST SURF
Call us for a quality repair 08 8384 5522
ZAK SURFBOARDS Mon - Fri 10am - 6pm, Sat 10am - 5pm 03 9416 7384
TORQUAY
BUDGEWOI
Seven days, 9am - 5pm 03 5261 6077
Mon-Fri 10am - 5.30pm Weekends by appointment 0422 304 078
South Australia
THORNBURY
WOODEN BOARD REPAIRS Mon-Sat 9am-4pm 0412 376 464
BUCKO’S SURFBOARD REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS
7 days, 9-5pm 03 5952 2578
STONKER
THE SURFERS SHED Seven days, 9am - 5pm 0437 246 848
FIX BROKEN BOARDS? Promote your repair business for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201
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GEAR: SHAPING
"This is how I shape a board haha #barefoot #blowthedustoff my new 4'10" zinger" Photo courtesy of Beachbeat instagram.com/dimity
A MATTER OF STOYLE
Another lady who is trying her hand at shaping is none other than current ASP surfer, Dimity Stoyle. And we're not just talking about finishing off a machine shaped blank - done from scratch. Dimity hails from the Sunshine Coast and has a long association with local company Beachbeat. Al Hing, who owns Beachbeat along with Noel Woods, explained the association, “Everyone loves Dimity. She used to work for us as a casual in our Alex store when she was in town and as such we looked after her in a small way as a shop sponsor, paying her comp entry fees and the like. “Anyhow, for a while now she has been coming into our surfboard factory in Maroochydore working alongside Millsy (John Mills) and learning to shape whenever she has some time off from the tour.” John Mills is Beachbeat’s head shaper and an extremely talented one at that who’s been at it for over 35 years. He gave us an insight into Dimity’s talent with the planer. “Dimity has made a few boards now. She wants to learn how to do it by hand as opposed to just running it off a computer. It is cool to see she is interested in that. We have worked on a lot of small fun boards, 4’10” or so just
perfect for her on our local waves. “A lot of people are pretty scared of using a planer for the first time whereas Dimity wasn’t. Her approach was, ‘Yeah, let’s go. It is just a piece of foam.’ And she has done all right. “If she continues to do a few more it will definitely help Dimity in her career because she will start to understand what lines to put under her feet in what waves.” It appears that Dimity has caught the shaping bug and having personally experienced the unbridled joy you experience when shaping and completing your own surfboard, we more than understand why. Interestingly, Beachbeat has now opened its factory to professional and amateur shapers wishing to have their foam creations professionally glassed, sanded and finished by some of the best in the business. Read more overleaf...
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GEAR: FACTORY
“If you see the the quality coming out of here at ed moment, you'd be hard press ere.” to see anything better anywh Steve Griffiths
PHOTOS: MARK CHAPMAN
BUSINESS PROMOTION
THE BEAT The Sunshine Coast surfboard industry was presented with a unique opportunity this year when Beachbeat decided to open their surfboard factory’s glassing and finishing facilities to several of the coast’s leading shapers. This has since grown from strength to strength with the return of master pinliner and polisher Michael ‘Pixie’ Andrews and the addition of surfboard guru Steve Griffith. Glassing legend Phil Jobson and the world’s busiest shaper, John Mills balance out the team to bring over 150 years of experience to the fold. Since opening its doors in 1986, Beachbeat’s surfboard factory has produced tens of thousands of surfboards. The name has become synonymous with high quality, high performance, strong and reliable surfboards that are totally made in Australia. Al Hing, one of the founding partners of Beachbeat explains their unwavering commitment, “We want to ensure the quality of the make and the structural integrity because we see the life span of our boards. We manufacture them, retail them and see them when they are traded back in. It is in our interests to make them as good as we can.” Now Beachbeat are presenting Sunshine Coast shapers with an opportunity to have their products finished to these same standards, which are arguably some of the highest in the country. Whether it is 1 board or 100 boards, all aspects of 112
glassing, sanding and finishing can be catered for with a guaranteed quick turn around. A number of local shapers are already utlising Beachbeat’s services from More Surfboards, Beck and Josh Constable’s Creative Army. Custom Woosley Surfboards are also being made under license from their Competitor 399 model to the retro Plasmo mid-length single fin speed machine, with all sold exclusively through Beachbeat. Tony Stewart explains their decision, “We’re dedicated to maintaining Ray Woosley’s legacy, and keeping the stoke alive! Quality materials, construction and a focus on authenticity are uppermost in all Woosley products. We won't compromise on integrity and honesty in our dealings with our customers.” Indeed from their humble factory out the back of their first Bulcock Street store in Caloundra in 1986 to where they are today in Fishermens Road, Maroochydore, the
Beachbeat operation has come a long way. Their current premises are state-ofthe-art and were the first environmentally licensed surfboard factory certified by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) in Queensland. The whole facility has been engineered so that every room within the factory has an extraction system from the shaping bay to the sanding room and spray booth. It’s a professional workplace befitting of such a professional surfboard operation making some of the highest quality surfboards in Australia.
John Mills
Michael'Pixie' Andrews
Professional or amateur shapers can inquire about getting their surfboards finished at Beachbeat’s Factory by simply emailing Noel Woods or Al Hing at Beachbeat or alternatively contacting them through either of Beachbeat’s Alex or Caloundra stores or the Maroochydore factory.
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Get in touch...
al@beachbeat.com.au noel@beachbeat.com.au CALOUNDRA STORE 119 Bulcock St, Caloundra Phone 07 5491 4711 ALEX STORE 164 Alexandra Parade, Alexandra Headland Phone: 07 5443 2777 BEACHBEAT FACTORY 20 Fishermens Rd. Maroochydore Phone: 07 5479 2811
AL HING ...has been around the surfboard industry since it began and opened the first Beachbeat surf store and factory in Bulcock Street with good mate Kingsley 'Knackers' Kernouski back in 1986. 28 years later and he's still happily at the helm.
Two original troublemakers, Al Hing (left) and Noel Woods (right).
NOEL WOODS Noel was Beachbeat’s first sponsored surfer in ’87. He came to work for Al as a casual that same year and is now a partner. His passion for surfing and surfcraft is undiminished. Noel’s been instrumental in the development of Beachbeat’s increasingly popular Pacer retro models.
JOHN MILLS
PHIL JOBSON
...has been shaping some 35+ years and still does it all by hand. “Millsy” came on board with Beachbeat some 12 years ago having originally started as a 17 year old at Star Jam Surfboards in Sunshine Beach. He’s worked with the legendary crew at Hot Stuff where he honed his exceptional skills in crafting channel bottoms and did his fair share of travel, using his shaping to pay his way around the globe. Millsy is a jack of trades but is primarily responsible for shaping all of Beachbeat’s high performance shortboards, longboards and fishes.
Hails from the era when volane glass, resin pinlines and tints were the norm. “Jobbo” is a highly revered, master glasser with over 30 years experience having started out with Hayden Surfboards before coming across to Beachbeat when they first began. Jobbo’s also noted for his amazing resin work and full gloss polishes.
MICHAEL ANDREWS
STEVE GRIFFITHS
Another guy with some 30+ years experience who’s worked with the likes of Kent Manning, John Vincent, Les Purcell, Steve Griffiths and the crew at Beachbeat for some 15 odd years is “Pixie”. He’s an extremely talented sander and polisher, and he’s also the man responsible for the awesome sprays on Beachbeat’s retro Pacers and Woosleys made exclusively under licence.
"There's over 150 years of experience at Beachbeat"
Having started at Peter Clarke Surfboards at Taren Point in 1971 before Ross Longbottom landed him a job at Gordon & Smith working alongside the likes of Peter Townend and Brad Mayes, “Griffo” then founded his own business, Emerald Surfboards, before eventually moving to the Sunshine Coast. Here he worked for John Vincent at Aqua Foils followed by a stint with Les Purcell before starting Black Widow Surfboards. After some 21 years, “Griffo” intended to ease back a little but pretty soon found himself working alongside the incredibly talented crew at Beachbeat.
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“the future of women’s surfing could in fact lie in the hands of an aspiring female surfboard shaper who is yet to discover the skilL"
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GEAR: SHAPING BUSINESS PROMOTION
Amazing, state-of-the s for art facitilities make oom or the perfect classr e ac practice sp
WORDS: DAVE SWAN PHOTOS: MEX
Australia’s first ever female commercial surfboard shaper... It has a nice ring to it. New Zealand’s first female commercial surfboard shaper doesn’t sound too bad either. Could it be you? Surfboard shapers are, after all, rightly considered to be the guardians of surfing. The surfboard revolution started in the shaping room. Talented surfer shapers who understood the intricacies of surfboard design experimented, fine-tuned and refined all kinds of weird and wonderful shapes they believed would enable them to develop and enhance their skill on a wave. So the future of women’s surfing could in fact lie in the hands of an aspiring female surfboard shaper who is yet to discover the skill. Well if there was one place to learn the art of crafting a surfboard from start to finish, whether you’re a female or a male, this is hands down the place. The setup is nothing short of incredible. Incredible. The Surfboard Studio takes surfboard-building courses to a whole new level. Since launching Smorgasboarder we have come to know Zak Koniaris well and if there is one thing you can say about him - aside from being one funny, down-to-earth bloke - is that everything he does, he does to the nth degree. The man is a perfectionist. From his Zak Surfboards store in Melbourne’s northern suburb of Thornbury to his latest venture, The Surfboard Studio, his approach is always meticulous.
The Setup The Surfboard Studio is the largest setup of its kind in both Australia and New Zealand. •
There are enough shaping bays and glassing space for up to 16 people at one time.
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There are over 200 templates from which to base your board design ranging from short through to long, from the late 70’s through to the modern day.
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Over 200 blanks of various styles will be kept in stock at all times from which to shape your board.
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You can hand shape your blank or there is a computer CAD design system and APS3000 CNC cutting machine on site to machine cut your blanks.
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There’s a state-of-the-art extraction system in every one of the shaping, glassing and sanding bays and protective clothing available to all who undertake the numerous courses.
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Within the factory there is an extensive, and we mean the most extensive range of surfboard building materials available anywhere from blanks to fibreglass cloth to resin to shaping tools to tints and pigments. Anything you need to build a board, The Surfboard Studio has it, right there.
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“IT HAS ONLY TAKEN US 12 WEEKS, 4 DAYS IN HOSPITAL, 3 ½ HOURS OF SURGERY AND NOW 12 WEEKS WITH MY FOOT ABOVE ME HEART, BUT OUR COURSES HAVE FINALLY BEGUN.” Zak
THE INSTRUCTORS
THE COURSES
The three guys in charge of teaching you how to build a board have over 80 years of board building knowledge between them; Andrew Stump of Stump Surfboards, one of the most innovative shapers going around with close to 40 years experience, Zak Koniaris himself of Zak Surfboards (although he is an invalid at present with a broken ankle, Zak is quite the talented shaper) and self-taught Kiwi shaper Kent Mulligan.
The Surfboard Studio offers instruction and tuition in every aspect of surfboard design and construction but aside from this you will be taught to see a surfboard in a new light. You will understand how the different curves effect the way a board performs and in turn discover how to get the right dimensions and style of board to suit the waves you want to surf. Best of all you will be assisted along the way to ensure, even though the board will be shaped entirely by you, and despite any mistakes you may make along the way, you end up with board you are not only proud of but that is of a high quality finish you will enjoy surfing.
The Surfboard Studio will also regularly hold master classes at least every three months with some of the most talented and experienced, shapers, sanders and resin-tinters from around Australia and overseas, presenting an unbelievable opportunity to learn tricks of the trade from some of the best in the business.
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There are a number of courses and classes at The Surfboard Studio including the Make your own Board course - where you learn to shape your own surfboard from start to finish, or you can effectively break this all-encompassing course down into two separate courses being: Shaping, and Glassing
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MAKE YOUR OWN BOARD COURSE Beginning with the basics of surfboard design, this course will gradually take you deeper into the intricacies of shaping and design including plan shapes, bottom contours (concaves and channels), nose and tail rocker lines, deck shapes and rail shapes. You will also become familiar with the shaping bay and all the tools and techniques of the craft. From the shaping section of the course, you will proceed to the glassing stage where you will learn about the various techniques and materials used in glassing a surfboard before cutting your own cloth, mixing your resin and laminating your board. You will then move on to fin and plug installation including various theories around fin positioning on different boards and how the placement may affect performance. From fin installation, the course will take you to the next stage in the laminating process before you finish and sand your board and get it in the water.
SHOP ON SITE OR ONLINE
Not all surfboard shapers today undertake every aspect of surfboard construction themselves and rely on specialists in their field to conduct each stage of the construction process. There's a real art to every aspect of surfboard construction. So The Surfboard Studio is also conducting specific classes on each area of surfboard design and construction:
With The Surfboard Studio being so close to Melbourne’s Tullamarine Airport, if you do not live locally you can easily fly in and fly out. The Surfboard Studio is 20kms from the airport, around a 15-minute taxi ride.
There's a massive range of tools and materials available - everything you can possibly think of that you may need to build a board. All can be purchased in person at The Surfboard Studio or online at thesurfboardstudio.com.au.
SHAPING: The aim is to teach handshaping skills as well the computer CAD / CNC machining and develop your understanding of how surfboard designs work in all sorts of waves.
OTHER SERVICES
GLASSING: This will develop your understanding of various glassing techniques, what it is like working with different types of resins (polyester, vinylester and epoxy) and the pros and cons of different types of cloth. Other classes get you to grips with SANDING AND FINISHING, RESIN TINTS, AIRBRUSHING, and the finer points of FIN PLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION - an art in itself.
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CUTTING & PRESHAPES There's an in-house APS3000 CNC machine to offer contract cutting and surfboard design.
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CONTRACT GLASSING For recreational shapers through to established industry veterans who prefer to leave the glassing process to specialists. Anywhere from 1 to 30 boards per week.
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DECAL SERVICE From one-off designs to professional screen prints RENT A BAY Backyarder or pro, you can book a time slot to mow your foam, to glass and finish your sled. All the tools you need to get the job done - from rasps and planers, through to grinders and sanding pads - are included and materials can be purchased at The Surfboard Studio’s shop.
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Gift Vouchers
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Tools for shaping, sanding, glassing
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Over 200 blanks of various styles
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Resins and catalyst - huge range of both polyester and epoxy
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Chemicals and additives styrenes, waxes, acetone, acrylics, paints and lacquers
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Fibreglass cloth - a large range of different cloths including carbon composite weaves and vector cloths with a choice of domestic and international suppliers
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Composite tapes and rovings
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Fillers and powders
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Pigments and tints - over 10,000 colours available in transparent, iridescent and solid pigments
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Fin kits and jigs
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Plugs, boxes and hardware
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Safety gear - masks, gloves, overalls and goggles
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Paint and art pens
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Surfboard templates
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DIY surfboard kits
GEAR: SHAPING
FLY IN, MOW FOAM, FLY OUT
BUSINESS PROMOTION
SPECIFIC CLASSES
HOW TO BOOK/ ORDER GEAR The Surfboard Studio’s online booking function is live, so you are able to sign up and put yourself into an upcoming course that suits your schedule. The online store is also stocked and ready to go. Other than that you can phone Zak, email him or call in to the studio in person.
CONTACT DETAILS THE SURFBOARD STUDIO 1A Fink Street, Preston, VIC 3072 03 9484 0018 | 0438 416 738 info@thesurfboardstudio.com.au www.thesurfboardstudio.com.au
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RIGHT: Kirsten makes a new friend. Photo: Nathan Pettigrew. BELOW: Exhausted after finishing the Waikato River trip. Photo: Danelle Bourgeois www.acoupleofnightowls.com
ONE OF A KIND K
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WORDS: STEVE GORE
For most people the thought of starting a SUP business would be pretty daunting. For a start, you’d have to source your boards and paddles… Or you could take an even bigger leap of faith, like Kirsten Wilton, and start your very own brand of boards. Tauranga based Kirsten started Liquid Stixx in 2010, tapping into the talents of local surfboard designer, Andy Jordan, to shape her boards the way she wanted, and putting in the hard work herself to get her boards built to the very highest standards. Being a female in a male-dominated industry makes her a one of a kind. Liquid Stixx boards come in epoxy, bamboo and carbon compositions. Shapes include surf, allrounders, touring boards and this year, starting on race boards. What’s great about custom boards are that virtually every one is different. Kirsten takes great pride and time in choosing colours and designing graphics that really stand out. Always making sure they don’t repeat boards, she believes custom is custom and when you get a Liquid Stixx board, you’re getting one of a kind. Kirsten is kept flat out juggling her three kids (and husband Lee), a granddaughter, her burgeoning business and keeping a very active interest in surf lifesaving and masters swimming. However, when you get on a board and go for a paddle with her, it’s like she has all the time in the world. She’s happy to take people out to demo her boards and make sure they get on the right board, whether it’s a Liquid Stixx board or not. “Too many people just take the board and paddle a shop wants to sell them, and are left wondering why it’s hard, and why they are hurting... And then they stop paddling. It’s like trying to take up running in shoes that are the wrong size - it’s not going to work for you.” Keen to introduce more women to the sport she loves Kirsten has started “Chix on Stixx”, a regular social paddle on the harbour, the waves and the rivers of the Bay of Plenty.
“It’s not competitive. It’s just a fun paddle where we cruise along and chat. People help each other, and we put time into the rookies to build their skills and strength. No one gets left behind and we usually have a coffee when we get off the water. It’s a great way to meet new people and check out whether you like this paddle boarding thing. Some of the women use my boards so they can decide that they are committed to paddle boarding before forking out for their own board. Lots of the ‘Chix’ have formed new friendships on and off the water. It is great to see their confidence grow.” As her many friends will attest, it takes a bit of effort on Kirsten’s part to dial things back. She’s naturally competitive and enters events and races both here and overseas. She was recently the only woman in a small crew that set out to become the first to SUP the entire length of the Waikato River (320 kms in four days), in the process raising close to $50,000 dollars to support the family of one of her surf club members whose only child was suffering from a terminal disease. Through her business and her social commitments, Kirsten is becoming a bit of a feature of the Tauranga harbourscape. She’s been instrumental in getting hundreds of people into paddle boarding, including me, the writer. For more on Liquid Stixx, see the website: liquidstixx.co.nz or join up on Facebook. DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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Jo (19), Renee (18), Emily (23), Lani (20), Jess (21), Grace (20) & Lucy (18) all ventured off to Bali in May 2014 with Love is a Verb, to experience Bali in a different way to the usual stereotype of what Bali is like for Aussies. We had the opportunity to speak with some of the girls about the experiences they had. Charging 5-6ft hollow Uluwatu in their spare time, the girls were based at Bali Life Orphanage where they were assisting to redevelop the orphanage’s farm, playing with the kids and helping out where it was needed. “Its crazy and so fulfilling seeing people devote their lives to these kids,” Lani commented. “We take for granted a lot of things in Australia, and a lot of the time its these things that mean the most to people over here, like freshwater, clothes and even skateboards.”
LOVING & GIVING G I R L S
I N
B A L I
Throughout life we are faced with different opportunities. Ones we take and ones we let slip by. Seven girls from the Sunshine Coast had an opportunity to head off to Bali on a trip no one would want to let slip by. It’s not every day you get to travel the world, surf some of the best waves on our planet and do it all for a meaning and purpose. WORDS & PHOTOS: GUS MURRAY
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The girls had the opportunity to head into Kuta and hang out with street kids. “From 6pm- 2am these kids beg for money for their pimp,” Emily explained. “For a 6-year-old, that’s pretty rough.” The girls went with a team already working in Bali. They brought rice and supplies to them as money can be damaging at times. “Having the opportunity to love and play with kids on the street, that are normally rejected and abused, was a beautiful experience that will always stay in my heart,” said Renee. For those who are reading this and have been to Bali, you can imagine the chaos when a crew of Aussie girls take 36 kids ages from 8-16 for a surf lesson. It turned a few heads. “ The smiles on the kids faces were priceless, some of them don’t even have parents to take them to the beach or a sister to have fun with. I’m so stoked we could serve them and be a big sister. It was so empowering and humbling,” said Grace.
It’s hard to break down trips like this in one short little article because its something you just have to experience yourself. Love is a Verb is non-profit organization committed to give people an experience they won’t forget but also a taste for short-term mission trips to poverty-ridden surf areas. “ We like to have fun and surf, but the heart of this organization is to give young people a chance to make a difference,”explained Love is a Verb founder Josh. “We can’t change the world, but we can do our bit and change it for someone else, with an act of love. It’s not only the people we reach out to who get impacted, it really makes us take a good look at our own lives back home and see how truly easy we have it in the western world.” Love is a Verb help build local communities structurally and emotionally. This is completely on their own back financially, direct to the source. We encourage you to go and check out all the work Love Is A Verb is doing. If you feel as though you want to donate to the organisation, don’t hesitate to contact them and get involved. Check out their online store, all proceeds are donated straight into the projects they are involved in. E: info@loveisaverb.org W: www.loveisaverb.org F: www.facebook.com/loveisaverb.org Instagram: @l_i_a_v
A few of the girls were given the opportunity to head into the notorious Kerobokan Prison where the Bali 9 were on death row. They got to hear about their journey in prison and share about each other’s lives. They spoke with Andrew Chan and a few others. “I can’t really sum up the feeling, I was speechless at the time and still am, how these guys can have so much joy even though they have a timer on their life. They are so in love with God and life, it seriously rubs off on anyone they talk too,” said Jess.
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For surfers, by surfers - support your local business! Want to see yourself here? Call 0401 345 201.
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Taking the Drop co-author, Danielle Dubois, Photo: Supplied
JUST ONE MORE DROP When looking for inspirational women who surf you needn’t look much further than co-author of the book Taking the Drop. Danielle Dubois is zealous in her pursuit of living life to the full and meeting its challenges front on. We spoke to her about her best seller, what she has been up to of late and her surfing progression. WORDS: DAVE SWAN
DANIELLE was born in Austria and
migrated with her parents when she was eight years old to Australia. Up until that stage, snow and water skiing was her thing. Despite a love of the water, she didn’t actually take up surfing until her mid-forties. It was this “new experience” that formed the basis for the novel she penned with three of her close friends that sold 10,000 copies in Australia. Taking the Drop was different to so many books on surfing as it was not written by a former pro or a guru of the surf industry, it was about four everyday Australian women who took up surfing at forty-five plus years of age. As Danielle explains, “We wrote this book not only to provide an entertaining and inspiring insight into surfing, but also to share our very different stories of how a group of working mums came together to forge stronger identities, increase self-esteem and find happiness and solace within the ocean – mother nature’s realm. “Our story was not just about surfing but about friendship, honesty and trust – a passion for life, a love of the ocean, life’s ups and downs, trying to keep balance in and out of the water, and having a good laugh (and sometimes a good cry) along the way.”
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Taking the Drop was a roaring success and understandably so. I asked Danielle about the book and how it, along with surfing, has changed her life, specifically in relation to one of the books central themes of building self-esteem. “Surfing for me and my co-authors gave us a good healthy start to the day. It has earned me respect and given me a sense of self-pride and satisfaction in knowing that I have taken on and mastered (although still hoping to improve) a very difficult sport dominated by men. I’ve learned about the wind, the tides and the swell and I've made many friends out the back. There is something very special in sharing the water with like-minded souls, who love it and are addicted to it just like me. “That is how the book came about. There were four of us, who met through surfing and regularly caught up for a surf. At that time we were all beginners and together, we gave each other courage and egged each other on, not to mention hooted each other onto every wave. It wasn't long before we thought we were good enough to be heading north to Crescent Head for some girls surfing trips, just like our husbands and other men. On those trips we bonded as friends and our surfing improved
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out of sight. We also had some hilarious and crazy adventures and experiences, so in short, we decided to write the book and talk about those adventures and also our personal lives, sharing it with others. It took us almost two years to put together. We had a hoot working on it. It was a lot of work, but definitely worth it. “For us the book had to be written to convey to women (and men) that anything is possible if you just put your mind to it. Life is short and you need to take what you want from it rather than wait for what is dished out. You don’t know what’s around the corner and you need to live each day as if it were your last – or at least part of it."
"THERE IS SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL IN SHARING THE WATER WITH LIKE-MINDED SOULS..."
There is no denying the courage and commitment required to take up such a demanding activity as surfing into your forties. Danielle gave me a little insight into her personal journey. “At forty-five, the whole action of paddling was a huge shock on my body. My neck and lower back were sore all the time and I rang the physio and chiro a lot. Also the cold water was an issue; this required the purchase of good quality wetsuits. Then there was the mental challenge - there were days, many days when the surf was too big but we went out anyway, got smashed, and sometimes got hurt along with a very battered and deflated ego. I’ve had a black eye, a huge fin chop to my ankle requiring stitches, many, many bruises and I’ve been almost scalped one time when my leg rope got caught around my pony tail (don’t ask me how this is possible, but it happened). So, being psyched out was a constant mental battle, especially when the surf was big or we were at a beach we didn’t know. Also when you’re a female and clearly a beginner, the men don’t give you much grace or credit, but with perseverance, some manners and a smile, those barriers were eventually broken through.” Since the book, Danielle’s passion for the ocean hasn’t subsided - her addiction has truly taken hold. “It’s part of me now and if I can’t get in the water I’ve usually got the sh*ts, and take myself off to the gym or a yoga class instead. For me, it’s a form of mediation, it’s time out and allows me one hour out of twenty-four in a day to just be carefree and
loose, without any responsibility or worry in the world. But most importantly, surfing has given me my ‘constant’ and by that I mean it kind of rules my life. Weekends are spent surfing with friends and my husband; our holidays are planned with surfing in mind. Any jobs and or commitments are planned around the tide, the wind… surfing. “Most importantly however, surfing has saved my live. I mean that. When I was fifty I was diagnosed with a tumour inside my spinal cord and I underwent painful life threatening surgery, which scared the living bejeezes out of me! They removed fascia, muscle and bone and drilled a hole in my spinal column to get to it! My love for the water and surfing is what kept me going and after my op, I’d shuffle down to the beach and watch my mates out the back surfing, dreaming and determined to see myself back out ASAP. “After a while, and in pain, I’d shuffle back home and lie down and lift little weights in bed, so as not to lose my paddle strength and watch another surfing DVD in bed. I got stronger each day. Four months after my op, I paddled out again for the first time. It was very emotional DEEP WINTER 2014 | SMORGASBOARDER
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for me as I was just so scared when I was first diagnosed that I’d be a paraplegic or even worse. Surfing is my world. Moving my body and getting in the water was what kept me focused on my recovery. I can’t honestly see myself not surfing, and I hope to still be able to catch a wave or two into my senior years.” Danielle’s life so far is going according to plan. Living a mere 120m off the beach at North Avalon, she is in the surf most days, and has now found another excuse to get out in the water. “I now work as marriage celebrant, which I love, performing ceremonies, often barefoot on the waters edge on one of our stunning Northern Beaches (Sydney). I recently performed a wedding on Stand Up Paddle boards for a surfing couple from Switzerland, which was awesome fun. I suggested a lei exchange in place of the rings, which was perfect.
“I am very fortunate as my work allows me time to surf mid week, with most weddings being held on weekends. I’m also privileged to share this day with my couples and it’s always a joyful occasion. I feel very blessed!” For those who missed out onTaking the Drop the first time, the book is available again through Vivid Publishing - in print (RRP $32.95) or as an ebook (RRP$9.99). See www.vividpublishing.com.au
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BOOKS
For surfers, by surfers - support your local business! Want to see yourself here? Call 0401 345 201.
THE RIDE OF LIFE
LEARN TO STAND UP FOR YOURSELF LAURA ANDON
The Ride of Life is a learn-to-surf book that embraces the freedom in surfing and encourages you to face your fears. It's an inspirational book for girls to stand up for themselves and show what they've really got. It also shows health tips, safety guidelines, surfboard shopping and ocean awareness for when you are out surfing. Laura is an inspiration. She helps you to recognise why it is important you pursue your dreams and to never give up. This book changes your whole mindset on life. It helps you to be positive. I loved this book because it actually changed what I thought about everything and this book taught me to believe in myself and be confident in what I do. I also loved it because it made me appreciate what I have, encouraged me to always try my best and live every moment. I recommend this book to all the girl surfers out there or those who want to start surfing, or anyone for that matter because it's a fabulous book. Phoebe Swan (12)
A BIT ABOUT THE AUTHOR Former pro surfer, free surfer, radio personality, model, presenter, author, ambassador and spokesperson for Cervical Cancer, Variety (the children’s charity) and WWF (the World Wildlife Fund), Laura Andon is one impressive lady. She is the type of positive role model you could only hope your young daughter/s identify with. Laura’s stories and quotes such as, “Your journey through life is like riding a wave; if you fall off your surfboard, you just get right back on and have another go” make this a ‘must have’ book for young women. Australia $39.95, Worldwide AUD $69.95 www.lauraandon.com
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DO FEMALE SURFERS GIVE MORE BACK TO THE OCEAN? While there’s a definite increase in media coverage of female surfing, it’s still the poor cousin. Without going on a feminist rant I am wisely assured by my trusty sidekick (husband Dave) that it’s not just the girls in bikinis that are attracting more fans, viewers and sponsors. Female surfers at the top of their sport are proving to be fantastic role models. Many are making the news or gaining exposure, not only for their surfing talents, but also for their work in preserving the ocean and making a difference to the environment. Recently Brazilian big wave surfer Maya Gabeira, fronting a campaign for conservation group Oceana, to raise awareness for June’s World Oceans Month. Maya had this to say about her involvement, “I’ve spent a lot of time in the ocean since I started surfing when I was 14. I get to share that environment with all the animals – turtles, sharks, fish, everything that lives there. It’s crazy not to protect it. Let’s help the oceans catch a break.” Browse the internet and you will find a number of examples of female surfers giving back to society and the ocean. Fivetime world champion Stephanie Glimore is a fantastic role model and is involved in numerous charities and supports children’s surfing contests. She is also an ambassador for the Black Dog Institute, which helps people with depression. Sally Fitzgibbons is involved with the Kids Wish Charity and both support various campaigns to raise awareness and money for breast cancer. A recent campaign in France involved three local female surfers having their breasts cast in moulds to promote the not-for-profit organisation Keep A Breast Foundation. And even more recently, world famous mermaid and underwater model Hannah Fraser, risked her safety when filming a video underwater with swarms of tiger sharks up to 17ft long in protest of the shark cull in Western Australia. These appear to be only the tip of the iceberg of the philanthropic activities of the female surfer, so do female surfers give more back to the ocean and our society? I venture to say that on the balance of probability they do, and deserve credit for their effort and dedication to the causes they represent. Let’s support them where we can. Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of the nice folks from Surfing Green, a couple passionate about sustainable surfing products.
surfinggreen.com.au
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TALKING BEER WITH BREWER SCOTT HARGRAVE G’day Beer lovers, I’ve just got back from the 2014 Australian International Beer Awards where we picked up five awards for our beers. Silver for our Premium Ale and Bronze medals for our Pale Ale, Billygoat Dark Lager, Red Belly Mid and Scotty’s Wicked Wit. Competition was very tough this year with over 1,500 beers entered by over 250 breweries from Australia and across the globe. This is the largest commercial brewing competition in the southern hemisphere and the second largest in the world. Taking a closer look at our Premium Ale, this beer is actually brewed as a Munich Helles style lager. Helles is German for “light”, as in colour not strength. This style is basically a German beer hall or session beer by nature and is brewed to be drunk in quantity, and in company. These beers are designed to show the refined elegance of quality natural ingredients, and to allow the skill and deft hands of the brewer to shine through. Our version is a pale golden colour, nice and bright with soft white foam. Gentle malt notes and noble hop aromas shine through followed by a clean dry finish, making this a very appealing and appetising beer.
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*For details, more specials and to download a voucher see the website!
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MEET NEW COLUMNIST CLAIRE... NAME: Claire Mobbs HAILS FROM: Brisbane DAY JOB: Accounts Clerk SUPERHERO ALTER-EGO: Exercise Scientist Surf Trainer TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR SURF TRAINING: I try to get at least two strength training sessions in each week. This involves the use of weights and other fitness equipment such as suspension straps, kettlebells and so on... In addition I will do two cardio-based sessions on different days of the week.
“YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE TRAINING THE SPECIFIC MUSCLES THAT ARE USED WHILE SURFING.” Here, Claire’s reaps the rewards of her pop-up training...
WHY YOU SURF: I find it more fun than any other sport I have tried because it offers the most freedom. Every wave is different and that is what keeps me coming back for more. The ocean is the best playground. YOUR DREAM DESTINATION: I’ve always wanted to go to Hawaii.
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WHAT, MUSCLES? When surfing, there are three primary movement patterns which surfing can be classified into: paddling, the pop-up, and riding the wave. But what muscles are used in these and why should you need to know? Well it’s one thing to be fit, but if you want to improve your surfing performance, you need to make sure you are training the right muscles, and in the right way. Depending on conditions, surf sessions can last several hours, however the actual time of upright specific surfing skills is limited. In a study conducted by the University of Western Australia, it was found that paddling accounted for 51% of total surf time, remaining stationary for 42%, while wave riding accounted for only about 4%, with miscellaneous bits, such as duck diving making up the remainder (MendezVillanueva, Bishop, & Hamer, 2005). Due to the lack of time actually spent popping up and riding during surfing sessions, dry land training is the key. Out of water training may also help maintain or improve optimum fitness levels during periods of less surfing due to injury, or poor surfing conditions. So, you need to make sure you are training the specific muscles that are used while surfing.
GOING FULLY TECHNICAL, HERE ARE THE MAJOR MUSCLES INVOLVED:
WETSUIT ETSUIT TECHNOLOGY EXTREME STRETCH NECK FOR COMFORT
PADDLING (INCLUDING DUCK DIVING):
BRAND NEW CHEST ZIP DESIGN
Latissimus Dorsi, Biceps Brachii, triceps, core muscles (for balance & stabilization. These include: rectus abdominus, internal/external obliques, & erector spinae), the rotator cuff (subscapularis, supraspinatus, infraspinatus, & teres minor), deltoid, trapezius, serratus anterior, rhomboids.
POP-UP: Surfers rely heavily on balance and leg strength during the pop up phase. Pectorals, Triceps Brachii, Gluteus Maximus, Quadriceps, core muscles, paraspinal muscles (for stabilisation).
BETTER MEMORY
RIDING THE WAVE: Surfers need balance and leg strength. Lots of hip rotation. Gluteal muscles, Quadriceps, hamstrings, core (for trunk stabilisation and rotation), gastrocnemius and soleus (calf muscles), adductors. Note the core muscles are active in every phase of surfing - consistently active to stabilise you on the unstable surface (the surfboard). Paddling, erector spinae keeps back upright and all other core muscles are contracting to stabilize the trunk and keep the body balanced. So whatever dry land training you may be doing, make sure you pick exercises that will target these muscles and closely mimic the movements. Most surfers want to improve their wave riding performance, so if this is the case for you, develop power and strength in the muscles listed for ‘riding the wave’ and your manoeuvres will be better than ever before.
Claire Mobbs is an Exercise Scientist, surfer, and founder of Elite Surfing Fitness, which provides a professional strength and conditioning program to help improve your fitness for surfing.
WWW.ELITESURFINGFITNESS.COM
PHASE III STEAMER
To cope with the unpredictable demands of the ocean, surfers must be able to respond to extensive periods of intermittent exercise, with different upper body (arm paddling) versus lowerbody (wave riding) demands.
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IMPR
EXTRE
LOVE IN THE SURF! BALI STYLE
My name is Brittany and I’m a 23 year old hairdresser from Dubbo NSW. I wanted to share with you my story about learning to surf on the tropical island paradise that we all know and love... Bali!! I went to Kuta for a 7-night getaway with a couple of my besties last September looking for romance, adventure and some much needed R&R. I had recently broken up with my boyfriend Trent and was in a very fragile and emotional state. I needed time to get away, let my inner goddess heal and spend a week getting hammered. For anyone who has never been to Kuta Beach before, it’s the one place you should go to cross off your bucket list. The water is so warm it feels like you did a wee in the bath and there really isn’t that much rubbish floating around either. Middle aged German men frolic in G-strings, rubbing coconut oil on their buttocks and thighs. You can get your hair braided, or haggle with the people that sell peanuts, drugs and flick knives. I was sitting by our pool with a hangover and a funny tummy when my life’s journey changed forever. Wayan came over and introduced himself. He said that he was a personal surf coach and had a sunny day special for pretty girls only. For $100US he could give me a private, half-hour surf lesson if I hired my own gear... That’s what I love most about Bali - it’s
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“he pushed me into the waves but I was nosediving deep in love.”
so affordable! I rented a surfboard from his brother-in-law and we made our way to the water’s edge. As Wayan helped put on my legrope, he complimented me on my thick ankles and sturdy calves, and said I would be helpful to his father when ploughing the rice fields. As I looked down into his big brown eyes, I could feel my heart melting. The next 30 minutes were a blur... He pushed me into the waves but I was nosediving deep in love. On one wave, I almost got to my knees before rolling across the sand,. Wayan came
running to me, held me in his arms and said I looked just like a Dugong. I was so excited, a little bit of my Bali Belly squirted out. Gliding on that water, I felt as free as Shapelle. I was on such a high afterwards, Wayan let me spend the afternoon buying him drinks at his brother’s bar. I felt so honoured to be accepted into his family in such a way.
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