Passing the Torch Leadership Across Generations
One of the greatest aspects of leadership is understanding that passing the torch is about honoring the past, embracing the present, and inspiring the future. Whether within a family structure, a company, a political party, or a 100+ yearold association of talented Black entrepreneurs, beauty and barber professionals, passing the torch is inevitable.
This principle is vividly illustrated in the history and evolution of the National Beauty Culturist’s League (NBCL) and the broader Black beauty industry. The legacy of NBCL, shaped by visionary leaders, showcases the essence of continuity and growth, emphasizing the importance of preserving heritage while fostering innovation and progress.
The National Beauty Culturist’s League (NBCL) was founded in 1919 by a remarkable group of Black women and led over the next 100 years by Marjorie Joyner, Cornelia Green Johnson, Dr. Katie E. Wickham, Dr. Wanda J. Nelson, and Dr. Katie B. Catalon. Dr. Nelson carried the torch further during her tenure, eventually passing it on to the very capable and caring hands of Dr. Katie B. Catalon, national President elected in 2004.
In 1980, Lafayette Jones led the effort to create the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute (AHBAI) and the Proud Lady symbol, representing the diversity of styling, hair texture, skin color, and beauty. The Institute represented 25 Blackowned Black Beauty manufacturers with $500+ Million annual combined revenue .
In 1996, Dr. Nelson was elected national president of NBCL and served until 2004. During this time, the U.S. Department of Commerce indicated there were approximately 150,000 Black beauty professionals serving 40 million African-Americans. The industry generated about $5 billion annually, with $1.2 billion for professional products and services, and $3.8 billion for retail. Today, industry data indicates more than $1 billion in annual sales.
Dr. Nelson was instrumental in fostering relationships with affiliated state beauty presidents and building alliances with other organizations, including AHBAI, Sally Beauty Corporation, and major corporations. Her commitment to education buttressed NBCL’s Institute of Cosmetology (IOC), which provided education to students. By 1980, NBCL had developed significant land holdings, including the historic multimillion-dollar mansion at 25 Logan Circle in Washington, D.C.
The collaboration with Sally Beauty was initiated during Dr. Nelson’s presidency. Together, NBCL and AHBAI collaborated with Sally Beauty Company to establish a scholarship program for students at the IOC and a discount purchasing program for NBCL members. This scholarship program aimed to support aspiring beauty professionals by providing financial assistance to cover tuition, books, and supplies.
Great credit is given to Mercedes B. Toregano, who has successfully led IOC for the past 20 years, bringing young, new, enthusiastic, and technologically aware members and much-needed revenue during difficult times.
Dr. Nelson organized trade missions and led trips to state chapters in Washington,DC, Virginia Beach, Chicago, New Orleans, Savannah, Miami, Atlanta, and Nassau, Bahamas. She interacted with a notable list of AHBAI industry leaders and members including:
• John H. Johnson (Ebony/Jet)
• George Johnson - Johnson Products
• Cornell McBride, Sr. - M&M/Design Essentials
• BettyAnn & Edward GardenerSoft Sheen
• Joe and Eunice Dudley Sr.Dudley Products
• Isabel and Cottrell Brothers (Comer & Jimmy)
• Marcus Garvey Griffith - Hairlox
• Frank Davies of World of Curls
• Austin W. Curtis - Curtis Laboratories
• Henry Bundles - Madame CJ Walker
Robbie & Nathaniel H. Bronner, Sr. (Bronner Brothers)
Clyde Hammond - Summitt Labs From 1919 until the early 2000s, NBCL saw significant societal and technological changes in the beauty industry. Despite major challenges, the organization navigated them head-on, including the unprecedented impact of the COVID pandemic which devastated many small businesses, including Black-owned beauty salons and barbershops.
NBCL membership included thousands of Black beauty professionals and leaders in more than 20 US states, Japan, Canada, and Caribbean chapters.
NBCL celebrity stylists, members, and master educators included a long list of distinguished professionals: Barry Fletcher, Tony Lleneau, Les Brown, Thomas Hayden, Haroon Rasheed, James Harris, Floyd Kenyatta, Benia Davis, Velma Brooks, Joe Williams, Bill Simmons, Olive Lee Benson, Barbara Edmonds, Pat Williams, Mercedes B. Toregano, Miki Wright, Toni Love, Carton & Fannie Hamilton, Howard Franklin, V. Essia Barnett Beattie, Hosea Edwards, and Reginal Mitchell.
Dr. Nelson’s legacy is one of dedication, leadership, and unwavering faith. She helped carry the torch for our industry, leaving an indelible mark on the Black beauty business and the lives of countless individuals.
As we reflect on the theme of “Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow,” we acknowledge the legacy passed down from the founders in 1919. Dr. Nelson’s tenure is a testament to this legacy, and the torch was passed to the very capable hands of Dr. Katie B. Catalon.
It is our sincere belief and prayer that future leadership will hold within their heads and hearts the legacy built on a foundation of faith, as a pathway to follow, never forgetting where we came from.
To God be the glory for Dr. Nelson’s life, contributions, and passion in carrying and passing the torch.
Dr. Lafayette Jones, Founder AHBAI Beauty Institute
Sandra Miller Jones, Publisher
