S-Mag 2017 by S-Media

HOT NEW SKI GEAR ALL ABOUT THE APRÈS / WEARABLE ART

THE BOOK

OF UTAH Salt Lake City is an experience for skiing purists and ski urbanists.

EASTERN CHARM Revelling in Marble Mountain's “almost awkward friendliness”

SENSORY OVERLOAD SKOKI LODGE:

A luxurious-yet-rugged backcountry adventure

WINTER 2017 $5.95 ISSUE 41

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CANADA POST PUBLICATION AGREEMENT # 42084025

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So cold. So cool. So what? they check forward. While gh ou pl u yo , gh ou ® l-wheel-drive t for the snowpl Audi quat tro al ith W . or irr m While others wai view ect conditions. u check the rear nditions are perf the forecast, yo co l al , Q7 di Au e new technology in th audi.ca/quat tro Discover more at

Audi Vorsprung durch Technik ©2016 Audi Canada. When driving during cold, snowy, or icy weather conditions, ensure that your vehicle is equipped with appropriate all-season or winter-weather tires. Even with appropriate tires, you must always drive in a manner appropriate for the weather, visibility and road conditions. European model shown. Some features shown may not be available on the Canadian model. Audi AG trademarks are used under license. To find out more about Audi, visit your Audi dealer, call 1-800-FOR-AUDI, or visit us at www.audi.ca.

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EST.

1978

ADVENTURE

SNOW

www.highsierra.ca

HIGH SIERRA BAGS ARE GUARANTEED TO LAST Designed for the rigors of the outdoors and tested by those who live for adventure, our packs are guaranteed for a lifetime.* From expert to beginner, we have the perfect gear bags to get your equipment to your favorite groomer or backcountry run. *Wheeled products are warrantied for 5 years from date of purchase.

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PERFORMANCE SERIES

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r e e b l a . i c s i e f r f o ap f o

LIONS WINTER ALE IS BACK! 10 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

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Mackenzie Investments is proud to support Canadian snow sports Wishing our athletes a successful upcoming season OFFICIAL PARTNER OF SNOW SPORTS CANADA, ALPINE ONTARIO AND SNOWBOARD ONTARIO

Join the conversation:

 /mackenzieinvest  /mackenzieinvest  /mackenzieinvestments www.mackenzieinvestments.com

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WINTER 2017

w h a t ’ s

FIRST LOAD

LIGHT WEIGHT SKIS

y o u r l i m i t ?

RUNWAY FASHION Moncler unveils their military-style focus for 2016-17 at a runway event in Grenoble, France.

ALL ABOUT THE APRÈS Aspen and après mix it up.

SKIKJÖRING The “King of the Engadine” will be crowned at this wild sporting event.

WEARABLE ART Ski brands are taking graphics to new levels of creativity.

30 32 34 LIVE FROM ONE MILLISECOND TO THE NEXT WCR I.SPEED PRO SKI / RAPTOR RS 140 BOOT

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WELLNESS TREATMENTS Up your ski travel game.

MOVING & SHAKING After a record winter, money flows in the West.

ROZ G. It’s all about the air for this half-pipe star.

TECHNOLOGY Editor’s Picks Garmin Virb Ultra 30 and Suunto Ambit 3 Peak.

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WINTER 2017

DEPARTMENTS 18

EDITOR'S NOTE The Discovery Issue

WINTER 2017 36

GALLERY

ELEVATED LIVING In the tracks of princes and

Trudeaus. Shredding with the most interesting man in the ski world at Davos and Klosters

TIPS UP Break free from the routine

PARTING SHOT Fire & Ice

FEATURES

”THE MOTTO 'IF YOU CAN SKI HERE, YOU CAN SKI ANYWHERE' USED TO BELONG TO WHISTLER, B U T I W O U L D S AY A LTA N O W D E S E R V E S I T .”

OFF GRID, ON GAME. Human-powered skiing and “working for your turns” is a superb way to explore the Purcells

THE BOOK OF UTAH Skiing today’s Utah is an experience for skiing purists and ski urbanists

EASTERN CHARM AT MARBLE MOUNTAIN Revelling in Newfoundland’s “almost awkward friendliness”

COVER STORY: SENSORY OVERLOAD This pilgrimage to a luxuriousyet-rugged backcountry adventure destination was pure, natural bliss

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68 OPPOSITE PAGE: Editor Gordie Bowles at Snowbird, photo by Paul Morrison. THIS PAGE, clockwise from top: Skikjöring in St. Moritz, Switzerland, photo: swiss-image/AndyMettler. Après at Marble Mountain, photo by Dru Kennedy.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

“To wander is to be alive.” – Roman Payne.

Winter 2017. Issue 41. EDITORIAL/ART/ PRODUCTION EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Gordie Bowles ART DIRECTOR Agata Piskunowicz COPY EDITOR Christina Newberry SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Paul Morrison SENIOR WRITER Michael Mastarciyan JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Genevieve Pizzale CONTRIBUTORS Trevor Brady, Claire Challen, David Fonda, Josh Foster, Grant Gunderson, Dru Kennedy, Mark Kristofic, Michael Mastarciyan, Paul Morrison, Christina Newberry, Michel Painchaud, Andrea Pearce, Ryan Stuart.

DISCOVERY. IT’S ONE OF LIFE’S ESSENTIALS.

We spend our lives discovering, from ourselves to our families to understanding the world … and the relationships between all of the above. That is pretty much the point of life. Dedicating this issue to that theme required an element of self-control – or, better yet, self-reflection – from all the contributing authors, photographers, editors and illustrators. Seeing things for the first time, in a new light, from a new perspective was our mantra in producing this magazine. We explore a wide snapshot of the best of the East Coast (“Eastern Charm at Marble Mountain”) to inland urban experiences (“The Book of Utah”) to the off-the-beaten path experiences of Purcell Mountain (“Off Grid, On Game”) and Skoki (“Sensory Overload”). All of these destinations have a grounded connection to discovery. Even 41 magazines in, we continue our quest to unearth meaningful discoveries for our readers. I’m always open to feedback and would love to hear yours.

Publication Agreement No. 42084025 Canada Post No. 7309575 ISSN: 1913-9861 ADVERTISING Ashley Herod Tait ashley@s-media.ca SNOWSPORTS MEDIA INCORPORATED MANAGING PARTNER Mark Kristofic PARTNER Ken Villazor PARTNER Gordie Bowles DIRECTOR, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Ashley Herod Tait DIGITAL Paul Solovyov SOCIAL Genevieve Pizzale PRODUCTION & CAMERA David Stewart HOSTS Claire Challen, Martha Lee, Edith Rosza, Larisa Yurkiw S-Magazine is an independent publication of: S-Media Inc. 65 Simcoe St., Studio 4 Collingwood, Ontario, L9Y 1H7 Phone: 416-884-7701 E-mail: info@s-media.ca www.s-media.ca

Gordie Bowles, editor

With the media world changing, altering and re-shaping at a sizzling pace, I can’t help but express gratitude upon entering my 10th year in the ski editorial business. As a multi-media company from the outset, we have fully embraced the notion that content is still king, even if the mediums of choice are vast, forcing us to remain as pliable as Jell-O. Adapt or die, as they say – and we’re far from dead. In fact, the future has never seemed so bright. On that note, I urge you to subscribe to our digital magazine, the Daily Descent. I promise you will not be disappointed.

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Photo by: Trevor Brady

ADAPT OR DIE

HUGOBOSS.COM

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CONTRIBUTORS

THE S-MEDIA DIGITAL EXPERIENCE

RYAN STUART WRITER

CLAIRE CHALLEN HOST, WRITER

PAUL MORRISON PHOTOGRAPHER

When Ryan Stuart isn’t testing gear or off on a ski adventure, he hunkers down at his standup desk and writes. The longtime contributor to S-Mag also practices what he preaches, seeking adventures first in his own backyard on Vancouver island.

A Northern B.C. girl and former ski racer, Claire Challen has roamed every outdoor adventure near her home in Smithers, as well as the rest of the world over the past few years with S-Media as a television host, writer and blogger.

One of the most respected ski photographers in the game, Whistler-based Paul Morrison has documented the snowsports world for many publications,including Powder, and has been a senior photographer for S-Mag since its inception.

Favourite ski run: Whitehorn 3 or 4 at Lake Louise.

Favourite ski run: Mounting Most photogenic ski resort: La Grave, France. Alice at Northern Escape Heli-Skiing in Terrace, B.C.

S-Media's powerhouse Blog Army of content providers give the most comprehensive and insightful perspective on the ski industry in Canada and world wide. The roster of World Cup winners, champions of sport, travel writers and photographers, fitness experts, ski technicians and those with hefty opinions has been assembled for the best lineup of ski content on the planet.

RECAP MONDAY Competition results and insight into alpine, freestyle and ski cross events.

s y a w l a r e h t Wea . g n i t t i m r e p tentions. ved with good in pa s ay w al t n’ is hich can The road sheets of rain, w ith w d ve pa ’s it e Sometimes o® all-wheel-driv with Audi quat tr t Bu e. ic . ay to w rn a tu s always e Audi A6, there’ technology in th ons. e perfect conditi All conditions ar audi.ca/quat tro. Discover more at

INSPIRATIONAL TUESDAY Photography from the world’s best ski photographers, such as Paul Morrison and Grant Gunderson, to inspire your day, week and season. INSTRUCTIONAL WEDNESDAY Fitness blogs, ski tips, familyskiing insights and gear reviews. GRANT GUNDERSON PHOTOGRAPHER

DAVE FONDA WRITER

CHRISTINA NEWBERRY COPY EDITOR

Seeing the world through Grant’s lens is one heck of an adventure. One of the premier ski photographers on the planet, Grant has captured spectacular moments for dozens of outdoor magazines, including S-Mag, during his 200-plus days on snow each year.

From his perch in the Eastern Townships, David Fonda was delighted to take on an assignment at Marble Moutain - so much so that he shredded his left calf muscle during the first day of the shoot. But this didn’t slow him down; David’s account of skiing Newfoundland is top shelf.

The unsung hero(ine) of any good magazine is a good copy editor. When she’s not fixing everyone else’s mistakes, this Vancouverbased writer/editor can be found travelling the world on some interesting assignments for S-Mag and many other publications.

Most photogenic ski resort: Mt. Baker.

Favourite ski run (at Marble): Corkscrew. Stay high and inside.

Best après spot for 2017: Scandinave Spa, Whistler.

OPINION THURSDAY Influencers from across the ski industry, including current World Cup and former ski champions, provide their insight and perspective on the industry. FEATURE FRIDAY Ski Television content, feature stories, athlete profiles.

Subscribe Now! snowsportsculture.com

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FIRST LOAD >People, news, gadgets and other chair lift ramblings

SKIBIZ

Photos: moncler.com

RUNWAY fashion 22 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

With a college-marching-band-meets-army-soldiers-style theme, Moncler unveiled their style focus for 2016-17 at a runway event in Grenoble, France, starting with with a high-performance alpine array and ending with fur-clad après-ski looks. The Grenoble show managed to push some boundaries – lacquer embroidery, blue army and waterproof tartans near the top – in their continued role as fashion trend setters.

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FIRST LOAD // SKIBIZ

ALL ABOUT THE SKIBIZ

Après Photos: swiss-image/AndyMettler

Aspen takes après-ski to the next level in March with the fifth annual Après Ski Cocktail Classic, a four-day slope-side cocktail festival featuring pop-up bars, spirit-paired dinners, a private reserve room and seminars on the art of mixing the perfect winter sipper (hot toddy, anyone?). The event draws master mixologists from across North America, with past talent including the likes of Tony Abou-Ganim, author of The Modern Mixologist, and the James Beard award-winning Jim Meehan of PDT and Julie Reiner of Flatiron Lounge. This snowy celebration of all things alcoholic runs March 9 to 12, 2017, at Aspen Snowmass. apresskicc.com –C.Newberry

SKIKJÖRING The FIS Alpine World Ski Championships won’t be the only ski competition in St. Moritz this February. While elite ski racers face off at Piz Nair, the world’s top skikjöring (ski driving) competitors will strap themselves behind thoroughbred horses and take off on a 2.7 kilometre race across the icy surface of the frozen Lake St. Moritz, reaching speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour in a quest to be named “King of the Engadine.” This wild sport was invented in 1923 in St. Moritz, which remains the only place in the world where competitors ski behind horses with no riders to keep the animals in line. The madness unfolds February 12, 19 and 26, 2017. whiteturf.ch –C.Newberry

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FIRST LOAD // GEAR SKI GEAR

It used to be that ski technology flowed from racing to every other niche of skiing. Not anymore. The pull of untracked snow continues to draw more and more skiers away from the land of lifts; all the big brands now make dedicated backcountry skis and boots. The key attribute out there – light weight – is now trickling back in bounds. “Lighter is right” is the mantra across the industry, as skis and boots benefit from a summer of Olympic-calibre weight loss. The champ might be Atomic’s Hawx Ultra. It’s 25 per cent lighter than any other Atomic alpine boot but skis like a barely detuned racer. They cut grams but not performance by shaving down the lightweight Grilamid plastic where thickness didn’t matter and then adding four buckles and a custom fit liner and plugging it all into a narrow 98-millimetre last. Runner up was a tie between the 4Frnt Kye 95 and Blizzard’s women’s all-mountain skis. Kye Petersen’s signature model lost 300 grams when 4Frnt swapped poplar for paulownia in the core. Likewise, Blizzard kept the shapes the same for its Sheeva, Black Pearl, Samba and Cheyenne skis but replaced the core with wood wrapped in carbon, ditching 15 to 20 per cent of the weight. Völkl deserves an honourable mention, if not the bronze, for its RTM 81 and women’s Flair 81. Milling out the wood cores into a railing for the binding to sit on reduced weight and eliminated binding interference with the ski’s flex. These are just a few examples. Bottom line, lighter makes it less work to lift and turn boots and skis. That should translate into more energy for more runs, something we can all get behind.

TRICKLE DOWN

DOWN GOES GUILT-FREE

NEWS

Lightweight, ultra-warm and extremely packable, down is a performance-gear staple. But recently, down has come under fire from both animal welfare activists and concerned consumers for cruel practices like force-feeding and live-plucking. In response, big-name brands are aligning themselves with organizations that monitor animal welfare, prohibit practices identified as cruel and track down from the farm to the factory floor to protect the integrity of their cruelty-free labelling. The North Face, Helly Hansen, and Columbia are among the brands that have signed on to the Responsible Down Standard, while Patagonia adheres to the Global Traceable Down Standard and Fjällräven follows their own promise. –C.Newberry

Expedition Down Jacket 4frnt Kye 95: $600 (USD); 4Frnt.com

Blizzard Cheyenne: $649; blizzard.com

Volkl RTM 81: $1,149; volkl.com

Volkl Flair 81: $1,149; volkl.com

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Photo Credit: Jeff Brockmeyer / Conception & Graphic Design:

BACKCOUNTRY

Large, long and warm, Fjällräven’s timeless down jacket from 1974 was created after a particularly cold night in Abisko when Fjällräven’s Åke Nordin decided to make a jacket that was impossible to feel the cold in. $999.99 | fjallravencanada.com

THE

BEST WAY

TO SEE MOUNTAIN THE

* MODULATOR

POLARIZATION TECHNOLOGY

LIGHT CONTROL The MODULATORTM LIGHT CONTROL lens improves your ability to read the terrain in even the most extreme conditions. Overcast and reduced light conditions are no longer an issue. The MODULATORTM LIGHT CONTROL lens adjusts automatically, and our adapted polarization feature allows you to see ice and relief details. The MODULATORTM LIGHT CONTROL lens gives you something better than your own eyes! Join us !

Bolle_Eyewear

BOLLE.COM

MODULATORTM PHOTOCHROMIC TECHNOLOGY

SUPERIOR OPTICAL CLARITY

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FIRST LOAD // GEAR

HOT GEAR

TECHNOLOGY: * Editor’s Picks

7 2

G A R M I N V I R B U LT R A 3 0

HESTRA FALL LINE 3-FINGER GLOVES ESPRO TRAVEL PRESS I will venture a guess that 95 per cent of skiers consume coffee. To avoid the potential disaster of bad hotel coffee, pre-grind some of your favourite beans before your trip and pack a quality travel press. The Espro press, a sleek new coffee press made in Vancouver, features double filtration to produce a rich, clean, aromatic cup of coffee. $39.95 | espro.ca

For those stuck in between the preference for gloves or mitts, these are your match. With the warmth of mitts but the added dexterity of the index finger, these freeride gloves are durable (cowhide leather) and offer a superb pole grip. $190 | hestragloves.com

The hands-free camera market is a crowded space, but the technology and innovation haven’t slowed down. Garmin recently rolled out this beauty, which shoots in Ultra HD 4K resolution and has internal three-axis stabilization to smooth out footage. The voice controls are a cool feature, if you’re the Siri type. Live streaming is available (iPhone only), and interestingly it’s compatible with GoPro mounts. $399 (USD)| garmin.com

SUUNTO AMBIT 3 PEAK BLACK Wearable technology continues to have its followers and haters. If you’re in the first category, this GPS watch, from Finnish manufacturer Suunto, will get you weather and altitude data, along with recording the usual activity metrics. The mobile app also delivers smartwatch notifications like emails and incoming calls. Available with or without a heart-rate sensor accessory. $399 (USD) | suunto.com

art

WEARABLE

T R Y I N G T O G R A B O U R E V E R - M O R E - S C AT T E R E D AT T E N T I O N , SKI BRANDS ARE TAKING THEIR GRAPHICS TO NEW LEVELS O F C R E AT I V I T Y, S L A P P I N G O R I G I N A L A R T W O R K O N EVERYTHING FROM BOARDS TO BUFFS.

DEUTER KID COMFORT 3 BLUNDSTONE 584 BOOTS Strong and sturdy, these burly boots are more than adequate for slippery parking lots, warm enough for the elements and stylish enough for the pub or nightlife. $239 | blundstone.ca

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Combine family time and a serious cardio workout by carting your kids around in a carrier. This pack has solid support and a one-pull length adjuster as well as comfortable and padded seating for the little one. The 18 litres of storage provide options for a longer walk – or workout. $425 | deuter.com

The most expansive example comes from Icelandic Skis. Line up the various Maiden and Nomad models and a Hobbit-esque mountain scene appears, hand-painted by company co-founder Travis Parr. Similarly, beyond carving art into Alaskan faces, Line skier Eric Pollard dabbles on paper and then transfers his creations to the top sheet of his signature skis. Chris Benchetler does the same for his Atomic Backland Bent Chetler big mountain sticks. And every year, Whistler-based Prior runs a contest to add another original graphic for its custom-made planks. On the clothing side, Krimson Klover owner and founder Rhonda Swenson uses her travels for inspiration in the Ski Top Village collection of merino wool tops. And then there’s Buff. Android Jones, a snowboarder and graphic designer, designed an original artwork series to grace our favourite neck warmer/scarf/toque-thing. In short, skiing never looked so good.

1.ICELANTIC Nomad 95 skis, $749. icelanticskis.com. 2. BOGNER Sport Ski Knit, $190. bogner.com. 3. Krimson Klover Ski Top Village top $110. krimsonklover.com. 4. ROSSIGNOL Toboggan DX jacket ($1,250) and pants ($750). rossignol.com. 5. MONCLER Windbreaker, $750; moncler.com 6. Buff Android Jones AJ Forward Escape US $20; buffusa.com. 7. BOGNER Sport Ski jacket, $1,999.bogner. com 8. 4FRNT KAE 95 skis, $674.99 CAD. 4frnt.com. 9. ROSSIGNOL Eski sweater, $350. rossignol.com.

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FIRST LOAD // HEALTH

FIVE wellness

treatments

TO UP YOUR SKI TRAVEL GAME Sure, a simple après-ski massage is nice, but ski resort spas are branching into alternative treatments designed to boost energy, recovery and performance so you can get the most out of every run.

S A LT C AV E : Le Chabichou COURCHEVEL, FRANCE

When doctors at the turn of the 20th century noticed salt miners had a surprising resistance to respiratory disease, they looked for a connection between the miners’ work environment and their robust health. They found that salt air benefits the skin, boosts energy and relieves stress, in addition to its respiratory benefits. Le Chabichou’s salt cave features a floor and walls covered with backlit natural crystal salt; a 30-minute session is purported to offer “the benefits of a weekend by the sea.”

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5 2 34 5 CRYOTHERAPY COLD SAUNA:

I V V I TA M I N T R E AT M E N T S

OXYGEN THERAPY:

Sparkling Hill Resort VERNON, BC

Nita Lake Lodge WHISTLER, BC

St. Regis Aspen Resort ASPEN, COLORADO

After a day of heli-skiing in the Monashee Mountains, Sparkling Hill guests can visit North America’s first cryotherapy cold sauna, spending up to three minutes in a room set to -100 C. As the skin temperature drops to 5 C, blood vessels build a protection zone to maintain the core body temperature, boosting the nervous and circulatory systems. Practitioners claim the dry cold is “comfortable,” but we’ll let braver souls find out for themselves.

IV vitamin treatments offer high doses of key vitamins that go directly to the bloodstream for “immediate results at a cellular level,” says Nita’s in-house naturopath, Dr. Dawn Gareau, herself a former competitive skier. Those results, Gareau says, can include faster muscle recovery time, reduced lactic acid and lower inflammation. The B vitamins in particular reduce anxiety and provide adrenal support while helping to boost energy and reduce jet lag.

At 2,400 metres above sea level, Aspen is high enough that altitude sickness can hinder performance and athletic recovery. All guests of the Remède Aspen Spa at the St. Regis have access to an oxygen lounge, where they breathe through individual oxygen machines pumping air with sea-level oxygen to counter altitude-induced headache or nausea. Those needing extra relief can opt for the altitude recovery massage, which includes a 30-minute oxygen treatment in the privacy of an individual treatment room.

CUPPING:

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail VAIL, COLORADO

Remember those weird bruises Michael Phelps sported at the Olympics? He was cupping, and next time you visit Vail, you can, too – as an addition to any massage treatment at the Five-Star Spa. While spa guests experience a gentler treatment that does not create bruises, practitioners say cupping can help sore muscles recover, improve blood circulation, reduce inflammation and open the lungs for better oxygen flow. –C.Newberry

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FIRST LOAD // SKIBIZ

: G N AKI

LO Y F E N , MO TER N I W ORD C E A R ER AFT

N I V O M

Good snow, mild temperatures and a weak Canadian dollar encouraged near record crowds at resorts from Banff to Vancouver Island last winter. Examples A and B: Sun Peaks and Whistler recorded more hotel stays than ever before. Right on cue, the good times are bringing big and innovative investments and announcements across the West. The first came early last ski season with the approval of the master plan for a huge expansion of Hemlock Resort. When completed, the six-phase plan will turn the 350-hectare community hill west of Vancouver into a 6,000-hectare fourseason resort. Then, the province returned a 50-year saga to the news with the approval of an environmental certificate for Brohm Ridge. The mountain between Squamish and Whistler is the focus of the $3.5-billion Garibaldi at Squamish proposal. The four-season resort is contentious in the

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WES

Sea to Sky corridor and remains a long shot. Ditto for Jumbo Glacier Resort, the sightseeing-ski resort proposed near

THE NEW OWNERS I M M E D I AT E LY SLASHED THE PRICE O F A S E A S O N PA S S BY HALF Panorama. Its own saga continues since the province revoked its environmental assessment certificate after it failed to meet benchmarks for construction. The proponent is challenging the move, adding to its legal fights with First Nations and environmentalists. A more likely bet for B.C.’s newest resort is Valemount Glacier Destination. In August the province approved the master plan for a resort above the tiny town of Valemount, in eastern B.C., west of Jasper. First-phase plans call for a skeletal lift network accessing 3,000-metre peaks, glaciers and expansive ridges. The proponents hope to welcome the first skiers in December 2017.

Beyond expansions and approvals, ownership changed, too. Utah-based Pacific Group Resorts bought Vancouver Island’s Mount Washington Alpine Resort. The new owners will bring four-season and snowmaking expertise garnered at their U.S. properties. Over the summer they dumped $2 million on Washington, adding snowmaking, more grooming machines and a new restaurant. The biggest news came from Vail Resorts. In a bromance reminiscent of Andre De Grasse and Usain Bolt, the megaconglomerate bought the mega resort Whistler Blackcomb. The $1.4-billion deal was the largest-ever ski hill buy. The new owners immediately slashed the price of a season pass by half and promised to follow through on a multi-year, $345-million investment plan for WB. And, finally, Red Mountain launched an innovative crowd-funding campaign, offering up ownership stakes in the Kootenay Resort. Investments of $1,000 to $25,000 include a long list of perks and the ability to privately sell the shares. Red hopes to raise up to $10 million to fund new on-mountain eating options and overnight cabins, among other projects. – R.Stuart

Illustration By: Andrea Pearce

H S G&

THE

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ANS AFTER A R K PL O

G’

M CO

C BA

A LL A B

E A H I R T T

FIRST LOAD // PROFILE

The first few years of your career you were very successful. The last three have been harder. What was the difference? I was really lucky and had very few injuries early on. In the last few years I’ve had lots.

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At the 2015 X Games I hit my head really hard and had a concussion. I had barely recovered when I tore my MCL and ACL in February. Which was worse: the knee injury or the concussion? Definitely the concussion. The knee is so simple compared to the brain. You hurt it. Someone fixes it. There’s protocol for how to rehab it and benchmarks for how you should heal. No one knows anything about the brain. Every doctor has a different idea of what you should or shouldn’t be doing. There are no definitives. Where do those two injuries leave you now? My head still hurts everyday, but nothing like it did. My knees are feeling good. For this season, I want to come back feeling comfortable on skis and get back to doing what I’m capable of in the pipe. I know it’s going to be a process. It’s an Olympic qualifying year, so that adds pressure.

Your Coalition Snow custom-designed skis launch this year. What do you like about working with an all-women ski and board company? It’s awesome to know I won’t be playing second fiddle to the men because of my gender. I think it’s still cool in the ski industry to be sexist. I’ve seen it first-hand. I also think an all-women ski company shows girls and their parents that there are career opportunities beyond competing in the ski industry. Through injuries, sexism and all the rest of it, what keeps you motivated? I really love being in the air. The half-pipe is such a cool feeling. If you land at the top of the wall you never feel any impact. You go huge and come back to Earth and transition so smoothly. It’s the most beautiful feeling ever. And I love competing. When I made the Sochi Olympics I said I wanted to ski in two Games. My goal is to make it to Pyeongchang (Korea) in 2018. That’s my only plan for skiing. After that I’ll have to do some soul searching. – R.Stuart

Image credit: Justa Jeskova

When did you first realize you wanted to be a professional skier? It was never my goal to be an athlete. It happened by surprise. I remember watching the mogul skiing at the 2002 Olympics in Salt Lake City and saying, “That’s what I want to do.” We were living in Ecuador at the time, and there was no skiing. I started lobbying my parents to move back to Canada. We moved to Calgary when I was 13, and I immediately joined the freestyle club and started mogul skiing, which was not the best idea for a nonskier. Everything’s really hard when you’re 13. I wasn’t the best at the moguls, but I loved the air. So, I switched to the pipe – I basically learned to ski in the half-pipe. I started doing well at competitions, and then people started offering to pay me to ski.

FROM 2008 TO 2013, ROSALIND “ROZ” GROENEWOUD WAS A DOMINANT FORCE ON THE WOMEN’S HALF-PIPE CIRCUIT, STANDING ON THE PODIUM IN 85 PER CENT OF EVENTS SHE ENTERED. SHE WAS SAILING ALONG INJURY-FREE UNTIL WEEKS BEFORE THE 2014 SOCHI OLYMPICS, WHEN SHE NEEDED BOTH HER KNEES SCOPED. THOUGH SHE RECOVERED IN TIME TO COMPETE AT THE GAMES, SHE DIDN’T DO AS WELL AS HOPED. INJURIES KNOCKED HER OUT OF THE LAST TWO SEASONS, TOO. SHE GOES INTO THIS SEASON, FINALLY HEALTHY, AS A HUMBLE VETERAN AT 26. DAYS AFTER SHE MOVED TO VANCOUVER FROM SQUAMISH, WE CAUGHT UP WITH ROZ, CANADA’S FORMER – AND PERHAPS FUTURE – QUEEN OF THE PIPE.

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FIRST LOAD // GALLERY

FLUFFY POWDER CLOUDS Pro skier KC Deane drops into the last line of the day at Revelstoke Mountain Resort. Photo by Grant Gunderson.

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FIRST LOAD // GALLERY

OWNING THE PODIUM After a career-best season on the World Cup circuit in 2016, Larisa Yurkiw, retired from racing after repeated injuries, swapping from the competition podium to a speaking podium. The 28-year-old from Owen Sound, Ont., has catapulted into her post-racing career, including the recent launch of a public speaking company “Larisa Speaks,” and joining the S-Media team as a host for Ski Television. Photo by David Stewart.

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FIRST LOAD // GALLERY

THE FOURTH PHASE Travis Rice charges a tough line during the filming of The Fourth Phase, a film that he produced. ”Four years ago, I couldn’t help but to ponder what this project was going to look like in the end. And now, being on this side of it, I think it’s an evolution of what we’ve done in the past. All the films I’ve done prior to this, I feel like we needed to make those to get to a point where we could create this.” thefourthphase.com. Photo by Scott Serfas/ Red Bull Content Pool.

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PURCELL PAGE 44

SKOKI PAGE 76

THE DISCOVERY ISSUE

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.”

MARBLE MT. PAGE 68

S A LT L A K E C I T Y PAGE 54

Map Source Ellen Kuzdro

- MARCEL PROUST

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UNCHARTERED, UNTRACKED TERRITORY HUMAN-POWERED SKIING AND “WORKING FOR YOUR TURNS” IS A S U P E R B WAY T O E X P L O R E T H E P U R C E L L S By C l a i r e C h a l l e n . P h o to g r a p h y b y Pa u l M o r r iso n

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THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ PURCELL

Off Grid, On Game

M o u nta i n F l o w e r Fa l l s THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ PURCELL

ALPINE BUTTERCUP GREW UP WITH T-BARS AND CHAIRLIFTS, HIGHSPEED AND OTHERWISE, TO CARRY HER TO THE TOP SO SHE COULD GO BACK DOWN. SHE’D NEVER KNOWN ANY OTHER WAY TO ACCESS THE SKI TRAILS SHE SO LOVED – THAT IS, UNTIL SHE GREW UP AND FOUND SNOW-CATS AND HELICOPTERS TO TAKE HER TO PLACES BEYOND HER WILDEST IMAGININGS. FOR YEARS SHE CONTINUED THIS WAY, NOT RECOGNIZING THE NEED TO CHANGE. BUT THEN, EXITING THE BELL 212 HELI THAT HAD LIFTED HER TO THE LATEST ADVENTURE, SHE WAS PERPLEXED TO SEE HER ROTORED ANGEL TAKE OFF AND DISAPPEAR FROM WHENCE IT HAD COME. BREAKING THE SILENCE ONLY KNOWN DEEP WITHIN THE MOUNTAINS, THE QUICKENING OF ALPINE BUTTERCUP’S BREATH COULD BE HEARD AS SHE SPUN AROUND AND AROUND, LOOKING FOR ANY MOTORIZED MECHANISM TO FULFILL HER DESIRE TO SKI THIS REMOTE AND PRISTINE TERRAIN. THERE WAS NO BELCHING DIESEL, NO WHINING OVERLOADED ELECTRIC MOTORS, NO TWO-STROKE SLEDS.

THERE WAS NOTHING.

THE SILENCE SCREAMED IN HER EARS AS SHE CRUMPLED TO THE GROUND, FALLING INTO A BLANKET OF FRESH SNOW THAT OPENED ITS ARMS AND CONSUMED HER. 46 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

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LUXURY ECO-PARADISE THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ PURCELL

Located deep within the Northern Purcell Mountains on the western edge of Glacier National Park, Purcell Mountain Lodge is a smooth 15-minute helicopter flight from the town of Golden, B.C. Breathtaking views of white mountains greet passengers as they fly west from Golden, over Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, trading the noise of town for the stillness of the wilderness. I was heading to the lodge for a four-day ski touring adventure along with my new friends from Whistler, B.C., Derek Foose and Jon Moon. Despite the grey-bird morning, it was still an impressive flight as we crested peak after porcelain white peak, cruising deeper into the mountains. Scanning the valley for our destination, I spotted a couple of understated buildings ahead, barely visible within the surrounding trees. From the air it’s really apparent how completely isolated it is here, not only because the only way in and out is by helicopter but also because the lodge itself is surely the only sign of human life. The heli circled and dropped down to deliver us to the lodge. This would be our home for the next four blissful days, where we would experience remote wilderness living with all the comforts of home and daily ski touring in meadows, trees and hopefully up high on the many nearby peaks. Set in the gentle alpine terrain of Bald Mountain, Purcell Mountain Lodge welcomes guests to its ski touring heaven with the promise of fresh snow, cozy down comforters and highclass meals. A sauna and showers at the end of the day are luxuries beyond expectation for a location as remote as this, likely spoiling visiting ski tourers, myself included, for anything less. In the 1980s, visionaries Paul Leeson and Russ Younger deduced that skiers, though keen to work for their turns, would ultimately prefer running water and power at the end of the day. A micro-hydroelectric power plant harnesses water from the Spillimacheen River, generating the power that sets Purcell apart from other backcountry touring lodges. An award-winning environmental water treatment system provides the freshest of water with minimal environmental impact. Early guests of the area, which was initially created with the ski touring traditionalist in mind, spent their evenings in rustic yurt lodgings in a meadow by the Spillimacheen. The lodging location was eventually moved to its present site, straight up Hydro Hill from the power plant. This luxury lodge was built in 1989 with 10 rooms in the main lodge, each aptly named for a mountain flower that blooms for summer guests. I was in the alpine buttercup and Jon and Derek were in the red monkey flower and purple fleabane rooms.

PROVING THEIR LOYALTY RIGHT FROM THE START, THEY WILLINGLY STRAPPED ON HARNESSES AND PROCEEDED TO TEST THE “TOW A PRINCESS IN A TOBOGGAN” OPTION IN CASE SKI TOURING PROVED TOO MUCH FOR ME.

NEW WORLD The gentle patter of slippered footsteps down the hall and the promise of a classic breakfast of fruit, homemade granola and eggs benedict pulled me from the warmth of my down comforter, and I headed downstairs to join the others. The night before we had perused the maps with our guide, Darrin De Sosa, who would lead us into the most suitable terrain for the weather. Darrin, a Canadian ski guide and certified adventure travel guide who has been guiding for seven years, plays an integral part in the lodge’s success. He’s not only the guide, but the planner, spokesman, kitchen help, and mechanical serviceman here, doing much to keep the lodge running smoothly. He’s also everyone’s hero when

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C l o c k w is e f r o m to p : D e r e k s i n k s i t d e e p i n Kn e eg r i n d e r G l a d e s ; E x q u is i t e l o d g i n g a t K i c k i n g H o rs e m a d e f o r a s ea m l e ss t r a n s i t i o n to P u r c e l l ; T he b o y s pull Claire Challen.

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for the twentieth time in as many years. They’d brought along their friend Burke Duncan from Canmore, Alberta, recently retired from 30 years as a Canadian avalanche forecaster. With the couple’s knowledge of the area and Burke’s experience, the trio headed out daily on their own.

FINDING MY GROOVE Clack, clack, clack. The rhythmically hypnotic sound of my touring bindings was the only sound except for the occasional birdcall above and sinus-cleansing farmer blow from my compatriots behind me. I allowed myself to move into an almost trance-like state as I followed Darrin’s tracks north toward the Burn. Low cloud had continued to envelope the lodge over breakfast. As we watched, it shrouded not only the mountains but also our hopes of getting up high today. With such uncharacteristically low visibility, we would stay down in the trees to maintain some reference point. To reach the Burn, we travelled toward the peak of Mount Sir Donald, one of the 50 classic mountains to climb in North America and referred to as the Matterhorn of British Columbia. On the way, we looked down on a zone called the Three Fingers, a series of chutes and ribs of immaculate freshies that hadn’t seen the likes of our Rossignol fleet for quite some time. But it was not to be. There wouldn’t be time enough to ski there today. Leaving such tempting terrain untouched was difficult, and through my own tears I had to endure tortured moans and wounded looks coming from Derek and Jon. However, our tears dried and smiles returned when the Burn proved a worthy jaunt. With leaning snags of blue spruce and subalpine fir spaced well apart and no end of pure snow, it offered exquisitely quick 15-minute laps of skiing and hiking, with plenty of angle to keep up our speed in the deep snow. Unfortunately, days were short in January. As the day moved toward midafternoon, Darrin reluctantly told us it was time to head back. Dragging ourselves away from the scrumptious delights of the Burn, Derek, Jon and I donned our skins and began the trek back to the lodge. The fog had lifted, and we were able to follow our tracks from hours earlier, leading us back to our home in the wilderness. The previous day, we had completed the

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THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ PURCELL

C l o c k w is e f r o m to p : A n a e r i a l v i e w o f K i c k i n g H o rs e ; Da r r i n l ea d s t he c r e w ; L o w c l o u d s don't keep Jonny Moon down .

OUR TEARS DRIED AND SMILES RETURNED WHEN THE BURN PROVED A WORTHY JAUNT. WITH LEANING SNAGS OF BLUE SPRUCE AND SUBALPINE FIR SPACED WELL APART AND NO END OF PURE SNOW, IT OFFERED EXQUISITELY QUICK 15-MINUTE LAPS OF SKIING AND HIKING.

there is a rare glitch in the power system, when Darrin can be seen packing toolkit, headlamp and flask before skiing off into the darkness to reset the system. On his down days he heads to Golden, where he doesn’t exactly slow down. As the owner of Cedar House Restaurant and Chalets for the past eight years, Darrin has plenty to keep him occupied. Purcell Mountain Lodge guests can choose to bookend their time at the lodge by staying in one of Darrin’s luxurious chalets, each of which is fitted with a fireplace and private hot tub. We were delighted to dine at his gourmet restaurant the evening prior to our departure into the backcountry, savouring scallops, salmon and an array of decadent desserts. As newcomers to Purcell Mountain Lodge, we were recommended to ski with a guide, although this is not mandatory. Despite skiing every season since I was two years old, I had amassed very little ski touring experience save for a handful of short hikes I’d done intermittently throughout the years. I’d taken a few avalanche awareness courses, too, but unless those skills are refreshed often, it’s like starting over every time. None of us had skied in this particular area of the Purcells, but we weren’t entirely devoid of backcountry experience. Derek Foose is the Whistler Freeride Club founder and head coach, and as a coach for Whistler’s Extremely Canadian steeps clinics has been guiding groups all over the world since 2002. Jon Moon, who credits his backcountry awareness to skiing everyday in the vast terrain at Whistler Blackcomb, has coached with Extremely Canadian for the past five years and is a former college racer. I felt immediately connected to Derek and Jon, who love to ski as much as I do. Proving their loyalty right from the start, they willingly strapped on harnesses and proceeded to test the “tow a princess in a toboggan” option in case ski touring proved too much for me. As anyone who has spent time ski touring knows, the choice of companions plays as important a role as your choice of terrain. When inclement weather limits your chance to ski where you’d like, it’s important that your friends can be grateful simply to be in the mountains. Playfulness seemed to come as easily to the boys as it does to me, so we were soon a tight team. In addition to our crew, guests Cheryl and Hugh Burton were staying at the lodge

last of our hike home in the fading light, the sky turning to pink and then dark blue. We'd spent that first day southeast of the lodge in Rudy’s trees, accessed by a 45-minute hike on mellow terrain up Knee Grinder. We’d rolled off the top, passing along a suspiciously long flat I hoped wasn’t considered skiable terrain, then dropped into the steeper trees for a tasty introduction to Purcell powder. At day’s end, our human train chugged up Hydro Hill, a direct route straight up from the valley floor to the lodge. As we crested the hill, the lights of the lodge beckoned us onwards with visions of warming soup by the fireplace. After two days of fun in the trees due to the closed skies, we’d hoped the clouds would part on day three and allow us to get up high on the mountain peaks into wide open terrain. We’d even stayed up late working hard on the “drink it blue” premise. Wise skiers have always said if you want the clouds to dissipate, your best option is to stay up late and drink too much; the skies will most definitely reveal the sun the next day. We creatively threw some extreme tobogganing into the mix for good measure. Rubbing our puffy eyes and tobogganing bruises the next morning, we watched as the day began with teasing glimpses of the easterly peaks of Ptarmigan and Porcupine. But the low cloud was in charge and our efforts were for naught. We would be staying down low again, this time exploring near the lodge. Though of course I was disappointed not to reach the higher elevations, the snow remained dry, light and free from tracks all around us. It was our last day and the

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crew was keen to make a day of it exploring the short but deep pitches in Knee Grinder Glades.

MAKING A CHANGE The need for change is not always glaringly obvious. When we are comfortable and content, we view change as the antagonist in our happy little stories, when in fact it may be just what we need. We must step into new experience with an open heart, as it’s entirely possible that we may discover that life could be even better. I’d always abhorred ski touring. Who wants to get sweaty and then freeze at the top just to get a few runs? Not this girl. I don’t like my workouts and ski days to meet. I exercise so I can be strong enough to ski where and how I want. Then, I ride the lift. I don’t sweat. At least, that was my mindset until this trip to Purcell Mountain Lodge. However long I’d held onto the belief that skiing and sweating don’t mix, I realized my mistake over the course of a few days. Exploring the mountains in silence, away from the lift engines and high numbers of skiers that come with lift-accessed skiing, was a draw worthy of testing the wicking capabilities of my base layers. There’s a magic to being outside in the mountains, which of course is magnified ten-fold when the snow is deep and enhanced yet again when that snow is untracked. Yes, I will seek out more humanpowered skiing, but I have a few conditions: The company must be worthy. I must be promised untracked snow. And, if I can please shower before my five-star meal, that will suit me just fine.

BACKCOUNTRY FOR ALL Purcell Mountain Lodge’s ownership shifted in January 2010 to present owner Sunny Sun, who’d never even been to the backcountry before visiting what has now become his favourite place. He’s not a skier (yet) and has only recently taken up snowshoeing. But spending time out in his lodge, sharing the joy of the outdoors with guests, has been a real lifechanger for Sunny. It’s apparent from his bright smile and laughter that this is his happy place. Sunny’s long-time friend and lodge manager Jackie Mah is just as passionate about this place. Jackie has skied a little and is determined to get both herself and Sunny out more often. Both discovered their love for the backcountry later in life and are now committed to making the backcountry accessible to all. Winter guests range from pro skiers to first-time ski tourers. Crosscountry skiers find terrain here as well. Non-skiers can snowshoe or toboggan on endless rolling terrain. Though of course it’s not necessary to go tobogganing at night under the canopy of stars and the Northern Lights, I’d recommend it if you’re into making memories. Sunny and Jackie also welcome guests to relax in the peaceful lodge all day, reading and waiting for their families to return. Summer is just as beautiful – guests arrive for hiking adventures and backcountry weddings, perhaps choosing to stay in the fully contained private chalet. Purcell Mountain Lodge is simply a must-visit. Sunny and Jackie will greet you like family and welcome you with open arms to their wilderness paradise.

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THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ PURCELL

I’D ALWAYS ABHORRED SKI TOURING. WHO WANTS TO GET SWEATY AND THEN FREEZE AT THE TOP JUST TO GET A FEW RUNS? NOT THIS GIRL.

I n a t r a n c e - l i k e s ta t e , t he w r i t e r a n d D e r e k F o os e s t e p i n u n iso n .

T H E D I S C O V E R Y I S S U E / S A LT L A K E C I T Y

THE BOOK OF UTAH SKIING TODAY’S UTAH IS AN EXPERIENCE FOR SKIING PURISTS AND SKI URBANISTS

BY GORDIE BOWLES. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL MORRISON.

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The young Mormon wipes the sweat from his heavy brow. His stark white temple garment is stained from heavy perspiration; the dry, arid heat of the Utah desert is relentless. He calls to the horses to move on, taking a firm hold on the reins, yelling, “Come now, boys, do it!” The horses flick their ears back, listening to his encouraging tone, and pick up the pace. It’s day 127 of this journey and the Mormon is tired. The entourage of thousands of Mormon pioneers – forced out of Missouri into the promised land where they could practice their religion without harassment – rides towards what will become Salt Lake City. It was tough slogging in those early years, but eventually the Mormons (more accurately, the Latter-day Saints – LDS) would devise a crafty plan to cultivate this wasteland through innovative irrigation practices, establishing the roots for settlements that spread through Utah, growing to nearly 2.5 million people. Even though Utah was Mexican territory when those first pioneers arrived, by 1849 they had established the provisional State of Deseret, with Brigham Young as governor. His governorship was shortlived, but his presidency of the Mormon church lived on – he ruled the people of Utah until his death.

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“

IT’S INTIMIDATINGLY HIGH HERE, CERTAIN TO FULFILL THE ORIGINAL MISSION OF THIS RESORT – “ENHANCEMENT OF MIND, BODY AND SOUL” – WORDS FROM TEXAS OILMAN DICK BASS, ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF THE RESORT THAT OPENED IN 1971.

T H E D I S C O V E R Y I S S U E / S A LT L A K E C I T Y

Fast forward to today. I arrive to discover “Ski City,” Utah Tourism’s new marketing tag for Salt Lake City … and I have to admit it works. What I quickly learn on this adventure is that today’s SLC is a bona fide metropolis with big city offerings (think Broadway shows, musical symphonies and professional basketball) that converge with the charm and appeal of a small ski town. The Mormon culture still exists – it’s the elephant in the room in SLC – but let’s face it, ski travellers are culture-seekers, which means we crave to discover those different from us. Today’s Salt Lake City is vibrant and progressive. The youth are forward-thinking. Take, for example, Patton Murray, a 30-something marketing professional for Utah Tourism. Tasked with hosting our team of four for an evening in SLC, he brings us to a Spanish tapas spot called Finca, a fine establishment offering a fantastic urban culinary experience and eclectic decor, all with a Spanish twist. A self-proclaimed Jack Mormon (the term used to describe those who believe in the fundamental theology but not in the exact prescription of its applications), Patton talks mostly skiing, ski racing and Utah’s skiing heritage with passion and conviction. I’m sold. The next morning we get to the heart of the matter – the skiing – starting at Snowbird.

”

Clockwise from left: The concrete and steel lodge

SNOWBIRD, BLUEBIRD

perch high over Snowbird; skiers navigate

Top elevation: 11,000 ft (3,352 m) Runs 168 Lifts 13

Deer Valley; the writer navigates around the impressive Cottonwoods at Snowbird.

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The sprawling Snowbird Resort, served primarily by its iconic tram, is futuristic. Not the skiing – which is fast, steep and mostly deep – but the energy of the mountain and people. Perhaps it’s the chaotic New York–style entry to the tram, where we wait in line before launching

into the 100-capacity tin can, which quickly drops us off at 11,000 feet atop Hidden Peak. To one side is Mineral Basin, a wideopen cliff-ridden piste, and to the right is Gad Valley, which rolls out below the jagged peaks of the American Fork Twins. Behind us is the Peruvian Gulch, accessed through a 600-foot hole in the mountain. The concrete, steel and window mammoth of a lodge that perches over Snowbird is a sight of its own. It’s intimidatingly high here, and the sheer size of Snowbird is inspiring, certain to

fulfill the original mission of this resort – “enhancement of mind, body and soul” – words from Texas oilman Dick Bass, one of the founders of the resort that opened in 1971. Once you’ve challenged yourself on the mind-blowing bowls and glades, and even some of the more family-friendly terrain in the mid and lower mountain, the hang out is at the central plaza, a slightly out-dated but friendly place to converge. General Gritts Deli is a quick-hitting lunch spot and a locals’ favourite.

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“

THE MOTTO IF YOU CAN SKI HERE, YOU CAN SKI ANYWHERE USED TO BELONG TO WHISTLER, BUT I WOULD SAY ALTA NOW DESERVES IT.

”

UTAH’S GRANDDADDY Top elevation: 10,550 ft (3,215 m) Runs: 116 Lifts: 11 Proudly rooted in its past, Alta is a throwback skiing experience to a time when skiing was less about business and more about a way of life. Walking the hallways of the Goldminer’s Daughter lodge, I am in awe of the legends that paved the paths way back in the 1930s, ‘40s and beyond, carving out a future that we can all enjoy today in the heart of Little Cottonwood Canyon. The skiing here is hard-core, reminding me of what Whistler used to be before it became a mega-resort. The motto “if you can ski here, you can ski anywhere” used to belong to Whistler, but I would say Alta now deserves it. Most of the terrain is steep and challenging. You can almost smell the hidden powder stashes.

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The moment we pull into the parking lot, the money-shot run stares me right in the eyeballs. “Check thaaat out,” I bellow to my trip-mates, Ski TV host Claire Challen, photographer Paul Morrison and videographer Daryl Palmer. That run, I quickly learn, is Alf’s High Rustler, dropping 1,200 feet from top to bottom and in some sections nearing 45 degrees (go ahead and hold up your arm and take a look). The run’s namesake, Alf Engen, was the director of the ski school here for 40 years and is widely recognized as one of the premier skiing legends of Utah (see “Historical Badasses”). The off-hill and après experiences at Alta were not a priority; it seemed a shame not to be skiing every minute. But we had a terrific lunch of cream of mushroom soup and house salad with field greens, gorgonzola and parmesan at Alta Peruvian, and the next day at Alta’s Rustler Lodge. We skied Alta hard, and it put up a serious test.

The iconic tram at Snowbird emerges from the fog; right: The Empire Lodge at the mid-mountain base at Deer Valley.

“

PASSING THROUGH THE WASATCHT MOUNTAINS, WE DRIVE PAST THE CANYONS AND PARK CITY RESORTS TOWARDS DEER VALLEY, AMERICA’S HEADQUARTERS FOR LUXURY SKI LIVING AND WHITE-GLOVE SERVICE.

”

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Top: The Apres Lounge at The Montage in Deer Valley, serving cheese, charcuterie and Veuve Cliquot champagne; right: Deer Valley near the Sultan Express chair; below: Fireworks after the FIS World Cup freestyle event.

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CORDUROY DREAMS Top elevation: 9,567 ft (2,916 m) Runs: 101 Lifts: 21 On the other side of Salt Lake City, along Interstate 80, sits the next batch of world-class ski resorts. It’s incredible to think that a 45-minute drive from the city gets you to nearly a dozen ski stops, all unique and with their own vibes and nuances. Passing through the Wasatcht Mountains, we drive past The Canyons and Park City resorts towards Deer Valley, America’s headquarters for luxury ski living and whiteglove service. Consistently ranked near the top of any serviceoriented ski resort ranking, Deer Valley staff pay attention to the details. All the details. The corduroy-laced runs go on for eternity, spread out over most of the 2,036 acres of friendly skiing landscape … but if you look closely, you’ll also find some fantastic glades that roam through the indistinguishable poplars and cottonwood trees. When Edgar Stern founded Deer Valley in 1981, the tone was set for exceptional amenities, gourmet food and carefully manicured terrain to service the luxury ski crowd. A ski valet helps you unload your gear the moment you pull up to the base – as long as it’s not snowboard gear, as the mountain still bans the wide one-plankers.

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ANOTHER

T H E D I S C O V E R Y I S S U E / S A LT L A K E C I T Y

Utah’s Historical Badasses Alf Engen, showing his unique style at Alta.

ALF ENGEN – Alta Long before people came to Alta in search of the great snow, they came to mine silver. Alta’s first mining claim was staked in 1865, and by 1872 Alta had become a booming town of 8,000 residents. But the town was nearly deserted less than 10 years later, when silver’s value decreased and local smelting become unreasonable. The transition to a ski town started when a charismatic Norwegian professional skier, Alf Engen, was asked to survey the land for a potential recreational ski development site in Little Cottonwood Canyon. During the winter of 1936, Engen toured and skied the area over and over, finding shelter with miners in the Albion Basin, before reporting back to developers with positive news – and a caveat. He was concerned about the lack of trees in the area, which would make it hard to hold the snow. The Forest Service agreed to jump in and take action, planting hundreds of trees on the hillside, many of which I skied around on this journey (60-year-old

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STEIN ERIKSEN – Deer Valley

trees!). Two years later, development started with the installation of the first ski lift, constructed from pieces of an unused mining tram. “Alta will be reborn on skis,” declared George Watson, Alta’s first mayor. The official grand opening of the hill took place on January 15, 1939; single lifts were $0.25 or $1.50 for a day pass. Engin, who held several ski jumping world records, established Alta’s ski school with his brothers, Sverre and Corey, and went on to redefine the powder skiing technique, which he honed on the slopes of Alta. The Engen brothers went on to assist more than two dozen other resorts in setting the stage for ski resort development in the United States.

Until his death at age 88, Stein Eriksen was the face of Deer Valley. The image of Eriksen sailing smoothly down the slopes in perfect form, not a hair out of place, is etched into the memory of Utahns. The legendary 1952 Olympic gold and silver medalist from Norway served as the director of skiing here and came to epitomize Deer Valley’s class. Others had come before Eriksen, but his handsome and stylish demeanour quickly won over American ski fans. With his gymnast’s background, he would demonstrate for adoring fans a “flop” on skis. Eriksen is credited with revolutionizing freestyle skiing with his vision of what today is known as aerials. It’s no wonder that Deer Valley continues to host the most exciting World Cup freestyle event. Even labelled skiing’s “first superstar,” Erikson would not let fame dampen his spirit: “Be tough, be confident,” he said, “but you will never be a whole and happy person if you aren’t humble.”

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let’s ski original! QuebecSki.ca discover the best offers at Québec’s top 10 ski resorts

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THIS PAGE: “These slopes are made for carving, that’s what I’m gonna do.” – Skier: Steve Young PREVIOUS PAGE: Top Left: Marble’s resident historian and raconteur par excellence, Keith Cormier; top right: A Corner Brook lawyer named Clyde Wells built Marble’s modest base lodge; bottom: Looks like they’re having a boil up. Everybody dig in!

“Here,” Ashley says as she hands me a great, gooey slab of fresh mille-feuille. “You have to try this.” Ten minutes ago, I didn’t know Ashley from Adam. Now we’re best pastry pals, sharing a custard cream at the Enterprise Rental Car counter at Deer Lake Regional Airport, where she works. Ashley’s been telling me about places to see and things to do while visiting the west coast of Canada’s easternmost province, starting with this fine pastry. It’s 1 a.m. I’m jet-lagged. I’m famished. And I honestly don’t know what I’m enjoying more: the conversation, the millefeuille or this strange moment of “almost awkward friendliness.” Cole Fawcett, the sales and accommodations manager at Marble Mountain, introduced me to that phrase. An “almost awkward friendliness” is what most CFAs (that’s “come from aways”) feel in the face of Newfie hospitality and charm. Newfies don’t just make you feel welcome and right at

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home – they’re so incredibly nice, they make you wish Newfoundland were your home. Maybe that’s why so many people are now deplaning the redeye from Toronto. They’re all coming home to this awkwardly friendly and achingly beautiful place; most, it seems, are oil patch workers who can’t stomach being away for more than a two-week stretch. One visit and you’ll understand why. When Ashley said “you have to try this,” she could just as easily have been talking about sipping an Iceberg beer from the Quidi Vidi Brewing Company, exploring nearby Gros Morne National Park, snowmobiling in the Blomidon (Blow Me Down) Mountains, attending a neighbourly boil up, fly fishing along the Humber River or, my personal favourite, skiing Marble Mountain. I first skied Marble eight years ago, as the doubly unfortunate Sir Paul McCartney and his then-wife, Heather Mills, debated a feisty Premier Danny Williams on CNN. The M&Ms were doomed the minute they mistook Prince

Edward Island for Newfoundland. The muchtouted Great Seal Hunt debate was a bloody rout, and everyone I met was overjoyed. Of course, Newfoundland had much to celebrate back then. The East Coast was gushing with oil, and the western side of the island had become a magnet for wealthy Irish investors shopping for affordable country estates. The Humber River valley was booming with the sounds of mansions springing up. The airport was then called Deer Lake International, and air carriers were offering direct flights to London Gatwick. All that ended when the Celtic Tiger collapsed. Fortunes vanished overnight and, in the aftermath, savvy locals snapped up abandoned palaces and all the treasures therein for a song. Standing here, chatting with Ashley, I wonder what else has changed since those heady, fat days. After a great night’s sleep at Marble Villas, Atlantic Canada’s only on-mountain

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Humber River valley to drinking Screech and Old Sam in the Knotty Pine Lounge, where the après-ski can range from lively to legendary. Which brings us to Marble skiers. Though few in number (weekdays, no one skis here), many are seriously good. They’re the products of a terrific ski school and racing club, of a remarkable can-do attitude in which friends and family constantly challenge each other, and of a rich and vital ski culture that’s nudging the century mark. Skiing came to Western Newfoundland in the ‘20s, when the Newfoundland Power and Paper Mill first opened in nearby Corner Brook. The mill needed skilled woodworkers, so it recruited them from Scandinavia. “The Scandinavians brought their skis and introduced Nordic and X-C skiing here,” Cormier says. “They even built a ski jump in Corner Brook. “The Bowaters took over the mill in 1936, and their senior management was very community oriented,” he adds. “Many served as presidents of the Corner Brook Ski Club that was established to develop skiing in the area. They cut their first alpine trail at Massey Drive in the late ‘30s. They developed the first hill and the first lodge. It was all hike and ski back then.” In the late ‘50s, the club began scoping a new hill. The selections were narrowed down to Marble, Blomidon and Hughes Brook. Three former club presidents were tasked with electing the winner. Each voted for their favourite. “Marble won on account of the president who voted for it voted twice,” Cormier says. Marble opened with one trail in 1961. The Corner Brook Ski Club went on to introduce lifts, including a rope tow with a jury-rigged tow truck that lasted until the mill foreman took the rope back to the mill. What followed was one for the books. “Bowater acquired these newfangled chainsaws and set about testing them on Marble Mountain, which it then owned,” Cormier says. “Bowater first cut the wood to make new ski trails from the top. Next, it donated the wood to the Corner Brook Ski Club. The club then sold the wood back to Bowater. Kevin St. George, who was then club president, took the $15,000 (a handsome sum in 1960s dollars) that Bowater paid for the wood and invested it back in the club.”

YOU WON'T FIND MORE EXCITING SKIING

anywhere in the East

Top: Like Canada’s West Coast, Western Newfoundland has mountains as far as the eye can see; bottom left: Corner Brook and the Blomidons as seen from Captain Cook’s Lookout; bottom right: “You lead.” “No, you lead.” “No, you lead.” The entourage discusses options.

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accommodations, I wake to a light dusting of fresh snow under a heavenly blue sky. I dress, click on my skis and skate over to the Marble Mountain Lodge for breakfast. It’s a huge, imposing, painted grey wood affair that was built by an unflappable Corner Brook lawyer turned provincial premier named Clyde Wells. Inside, its storied knotty pine walls are covered with vintage skis and period black and white photographs. One, dated 1972, shows a young Nancy Green. In her youthful exuberance, Nancy declared Marble the “best skiing east of the Rockies.” Though she’s never stopped disavowing that claim, the fact is Marble serves up some mighty wonderful skiing. “When the conditions at Marble are on,” Fawcett says, “you won’t find more exciting skiing anywhere in the East. There are bigger mountains with more vertical and way more runs. There are even a couple where you can ski above the tree line. You can’t change that. But I guarantee you can’t find more exciting skiing in the East than Marble. And I’m not even from here!” Fawcett, it should be noted, hails from Poley, New Brunswick, and has spent his entire life skiing Atlantic Canada and New England. Marble Mountain is thrice blessed, with its bountiful snow, terrific terrain and zero crowds. On average, more than 500 centimetres of deliciously dry snow falls here every winter. According to Keith Cormier, Marble’s resident historian emeritus, “It snows when warm, wet air from the Gulf of Saint Lawrence hits the cold, dry mountain air of Western Newfoundland. The snow is dry, even though Marble is just a hair and a wink above sea level.” Then there’s the terrain. Marble is Atlantic Canada’s biggest peak with 519 vertical metres, 230 acres of skiable terrain and 39 trails. While those numbers ordinarily spell mid-size, there’s nothing ordinary about Marble. It skis BIG. “Marble is a skier’s mountain,” Cormier says. “That entails two things. First, there’s the love of skiing, of being a skier. Marble Mountain feeds that by serving up everything skiers love about skiing. Then there’s the love of being on the mountain. Most skiers ski because there’s more to skiing than skiing.” At Marble, that includes everything from drinking in the gorgeous vistas of the

Top: Forget mid-fats – check this one-quiver, five-man shooter ski; bottom left: Marble is for people who love skiing and après-skiing and après-après-skiing; bottom right: Ski all day, sing at night!

It’s enough to make you wonder how much richer the world would be if we could all practice a little Newfie generosity and know-how. Marble was a favourite getaway among servicemen at the U.S. Air Force base in Stephenville until the base closed in 1966. Over the next several decades, Marble would continue to grow, acquiring new lifts, cutting new trails, forging new ground. In those days the mountain was entirely managed by volunteers. (The province now runs it.) After a delicious breakfast of bacon and eggs served up by the charming “What’llit-be-darlin?” Colleen, I ride the Governor’s Express quad to the summit. Disembarking, I count more Yamaha and Ski-Doo jackets than Bogners and Descentes. I pause to survey the Governor’s Balls, two massive boulders

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nestled below the Doppler Weather station that towers over the summit. Despite the abysmal non-winter the East has endured, the snow conditions are astonishing. It must be the Marble effect. Dipping down a blue named Chilliwack, both my skis and I are delighted to find fabulously fresh and forgiving snow free of the icy patches, rocks and bare spots we’ve experienced all winter. I stop at the top of L’Anse aux Meadows and drink in the stunning view of the Humber River and the rooftops of Steady Brook. The surrounding mountains recede like frozen white caps as far as the eye can see. Gee, but it’s good to be back home. Marble hasn’t changed much since my last visit. The terrain is still predominantly intermediate and expert. Only one green,

AT MARBLE, THAT INCLUDES EVERYTHING FROM DRINKING IN THE GORGEOUS VISTAS OF THE HUMBER RIVER VELLEY TO DRINKING SCREECH AND OLD SAM IN THE KNOTTY PINE LOUNGE, WHERE THE APRÉS- SKI CAN RANGE FROM

to legendary.

lively

Top left: No ordinary steak and fries; bottom left: Madison’s in The Marble Inn is right across the way from Marble Mountain; bottom right: Newfound Sushi showcases locally grown food at its freshest and finest.

efore launching Newfound Sushi, master chef Kevin Vincent was best known as Marble Mountain’s snowboarding pioneer. Way back then, two fledgling companies named Burton and Sims had just launched their throwback models, which looked like small wooden surfboards attached to toboggan cords. Unable to procure one locally, Vincent built his own. It died its first day on snow. Vincent’s second board was way stronger. It also weighed 40 pounds. Undaunted, Vincent kept at it and eventually landed a ski industry job out West. While there he met his bride-to-be, Andrea, who introduced him to sushi, which he hated. Proving once again that love conquers all, Vincent learned to love sushi by teaching himself how to make it. He began showing off his culinary creations at house parties. Eventually the couple married and returned to Corner Brook. One day, a local grocer sampled Vincent’s sushi skills at a party and hired him on the spot to supply his supermarket. Vincent’s sushi was so popular that in 2012 he and Andrea opened their own restaurant. Newfound Sushi became the hottest ticket in town, especially among Corner Brook’s young university crowd. Says one wag, “older Newfies won’t try it unless you boil it, fry it, toss out all the flavours and then smother it in gravy!” Apart from the unagi (roast eel), virtually all the fish Vincent serves is caught in Newfoundland, most of it within 100 miles of his restaurant. Finding a seat at Newfound Sushi can be difficult, never mind a table. There are just four tables, 14 chairs and four seats at the sushi bar. Construction has already begun on an izakaya or Japanese bistro upstairs. - D. FONDA

the aptly named Country Road, reaches the top. The grooming still maximizes skiing pleasure rather than skier traffic. The chairs still run smoothly, and the lift attendants and chalet staff are as friendly and helpful as ever. The biggest difference I’ve noticed so far is in the Cookhouse, where fried squid (calamari fritti, if you will) is no longer on the menu. During my too-brief stay, I learn that dining has improved considerably in Western Newfoundland. Back then it seemed that everything was raw, deep-fried or boiled. Tastes have clearly changed. Across the highway in tony Steady Brook, Madison’s serves up mighty fine classic Continental and Newfoundland cuisine, including house-cured charcuterie and a chicken and seal sausage roulade. Down the road in Corner Brook, Newfound Sushi (see sidebar) has been wowing local foodies with fabulously fresh sushi since 2012. Local photographer and snowboard phenom Dru Kennedy swears it’s the best sushi east of Vancouver. You’ll get no argument here. Not when Dru’s paying. It’s surprising how quickly you can get over that almost awkward friendliness.

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FROM SNOWBOARDS TO SUSHI

THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ SKOKI

e n

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THIS PILGRIMAGE TO A LUXURIOUS-YET-RUGGED BACKCOUNTRY ADVENTURE DESTINATION WAS PURE, NATURAL BLISS BY M A R K K R I STO F I C P H OTO G R A P H Y BY PAU L M O R R I S O N

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O N G O I N G F I L M I N G A N D P H OTO G R A P H Y M O D E R AT E D T H E PAC E F O R T H E F I R ST H A L F O F T H E TO U R I N G , G I V I N G M E T H E O P P O R T U N I T Y TO TA K E I N T H E M E S M E R I Z I N G B E AU T Y O F T H E A L B E R TA R O C K I E S I N R E F L E C T I V E S E R E N I T Y.

follow the stars

The majestic Canadian Rocky Mountains appear to backdrop everything at Lake Louise. Skier: Claire Challen.

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ake Louise is part of my annual western pilgrimage route. I’ve managed to get there once or twice a year for the past 15 years, except when the birth of a child would interrupt my travel schedule. But only this winter did I discover the surreal backcountry ski experience waiting for me in Skoki, just two short passes beyond the back bowls. I had heard of Skoki Lodge, of course, and knew that it was the Rocky Mountain base of choice for the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge during their 2011 Canadian tour. So when Dan Markham, marketing director for Lake Louise, made the convincing argument that it was time for S-Media to visit Skoki, I decided to attach myself as a hanger-on to our production crew. Departing Ontario on a depressingly warm, grey and damp Sunday, it was a welcome change to arrive in sunny, crisp Big Sky Country. After a quick drive – it’s less than two hours from Calgary to Lake Louise – we were set to go the following morning. Making our way up the Grizzly Express Gondola at Lake Louise, Dan explained his plan to ski down the back side to the trail, giving us a quick bird’s eye view of where we would be heading. Carrying everything we needed for three days on our backs, we made the easy ski down to Temple Lodge, took a moment to get the skis skinned up, and we were off touring. As an Ontario native, the last time I did any ski touring was 1999, so the experience of transforming my skis from alpine carvers to grippy cross-country touring machines was still novel, if not exhilarating. And, of course, I am the guy who puts his skins on backwards.

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M A N AG I N G T H E

iPhone

W I T H D R AWA L SY M P TO M S T H R O U G H T H E P E AC E F U L S K I TO U R I N TO K I C K O F F T H E T R I P WAS T H E P E R F E C T F I R ST ST E P O F D E CO M P R E SS I O N .

The trek up to Skoki requires passage through Boulder Pass and eventually Deception Pass. Dan Markham leads Claire Challen.

Ascent to disconnection

Ongoing filming and photography moderated the pace for the first half of the touring, giving me the opportunity to take in the mesmerizing beauty of the Alberta Rockies in reflective serenity. A five-centimetre dusting gave the already breathtaking scenery the perfect white blanket postcard effect.

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I knew going in that Skoki Lodge had no power or cell service: I would be completely disconnecting from the outside world. As we moved out of cell service range, the instinct to keep reaching into my cell phone pocket quickly started to fade. Managing the iPhone withdrawal symptoms through the peaceful ski tour in was the perfect first step of decompression.

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WHERE CHAMPIONS LIVE Clockwise from top left: A variety of desserts, cheeses and pastries are laid out every afternoon; a signboard points the way; the lodging is rustic but elegant; the Riverside Cabin, a private stay just away from the main lodge.

Backcountry Bliss

Getting to Skoki requires touring through two passes. The first, Boulder Pass, is a relatively simple and scenic climb to Ptarmigan Lake, which in the winter is a long, windswept open crossing. With guests leaving Skoki crossing paths with fellow guests coming in for the night, Ptarmigan Lake feels like an endless open crossing where you can take a competitive, hard-core, heart-pumping pace, or make it more casual, serene and conversational. Being in no rush, a conversational pace allowed our crew to chat about the upcoming few days, take in the beauty of the lake crossing and pass it with relative ease, never breaking a sweat. After a short break to re-skin the skis at the end of Ptarmigan Lake, our crew reached the final climb over Deception Pass. Deciding that we were all clearly in superior physical shape, Dan decided on the shorter but steeper direct route up to the summit. I would be lying if I said it didn’t leave me huffing and puffing. However, much like the lake crossing, you can choose

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your level of exertion, whether it be the direct ascent for a little more challenge, or a more casual series of switchbacks up the side of the mountain. From Deception Pass, it was a matter of deskinning and an easy, long, slow decent to Skoki Lodge. Sliding up to Skoki, we clicked off our skis and entered the lodge. The immediate sensation was olfactory bliss as we walked through the door to be greeted by the tea, soup and variety of cheeses that are laid out every afternoon, perfect for famished guests who have worked up an appetite touring, skiing and snowshoeing the day away on the many trails and passes in and around the lodge. The lodge itself, built in 1930, is a picturesquely perfect Canadiana log cabin, complete with candles, wood stove and kerosene lamps for that warm evening glow. The inability to get online, or even charge a device, means that guests engage in the lost arts of conversation and reading. Naturally, with the physical nature of the activities around the lodge, there’s also the odd nap by the fire, complete with soft snoring. Extroverted guests engage in introductions and stories of the day, while introverted guests

#CANSKITEAM . ALPINECANADA.ORG snowsportsculture.com

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The lodge

Experience the Canadian Rockies, Fernie Style.

… IS A

THE DISCOVERY ISSUE/ SKOKI

P I C T U R E S Q U E LY P E R F E C T C A N A D I A N A LO G C A B I N , CO M P L E T E W I T H C A N D L E S , WO O D STOV E A N D K E R O S E N E L A M P S F O R

are able to feel completely at ease in their own private worlds with a book by the fire. A piano and a couple of guitars, including a new one recently given to the lodge by a satisfied regular, beckon any amateur musician brave enough to entertain 20 strangers. Even though I am a self-proclaimed horrible guitarist, Ski Television host Claire Challen did look at me with pleading eyes, silently begging me to pick up the guitar and play anything after a fellow guest’s seventeenth rendition of Stairway to Heaven. The lodge exudes a rare mix of luxury and backcountry ruggedness. While the guest rooms are small and quaint, the three males of our crew were lucky enough to be put up in the Riverside Cabin, where Prince William and Kate stayed in 2011. The private cabin just steps away from the main lodge gives guests an added level of privacy in a rustic paradise.

A Woodland Feast

Prior to visiting Skoki, I had heard rumblings that in addition to epic ski touring and powder, the lodge is known for its food. Guests dine on meals prepared by the same kitchen staff that served the Royals five years ago, and dinner and breakfast are as much part of the Skoki experience as the ski touring and views. Chef Katie Mitzel mingles with the guests prior to dinner and quickly ingratiates with her lively personality and passion for food. While dinner is communal, the intimate setting allows guests to either feel part of the group of 20 guests dining at one table, or seclude themselves to feel like they are having a private intimate dinner. Chef Katie starts each meal with an introduction to the group and a description of the culinary feast her staff has put together in the propane-powered kitchen along with details of how dinner was prepared and where the food came from. Following dinner, as guests loosen their belts to allow for optimum belly expansion, staff clear the dishes to be washed in water hauled in from the nearby creek.

photo: Matt Kuhn

T H AT WA R M E V E N I N G G LOW

e on YouTub m il F i k S th New Fernie ctober 13 starting O

Legendar yFernie.com|#FernieStoke

Back to Reality Top: The cabins are engulfed by majestic scenery; middle: Katie Mizel (far left) and her staff; bottom: Evenings at the lodge are filled with conversation and book-reading by the fire.

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Touring out of Skoki and back to Lake Louise is a slightly surreal experience. Ripping Lake Louise frontside groomer turns back to civilization, I had a hot shower and laundry on my mind. My cell phone vibrated as we came back into service area, immediately triggering the old instinct to reach into my pocket. This time, though, it was to turn my phone off.

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Elevated

LIVING

Living the mountain high life BY MICHAEL MASTARCIYAN

IN THE TRACKS O F P R I N C E S & T R U D E AU S SHREDDING WITH THE MOST INTERESTING MAN IN THE SKI WORLD AT DAVOS AND KLOSTERS You could go to the ultra-ritzy twin resorts of Davos and Klosters, high up in the snowy Swiss Alps, to ski in the tracks of European royalty or to pamper yourself at luxurious spa hotels. If you hit the area in late January, you might even rub elbows with an assortment of prime ministers, presidents, investment bankers, economists and even rock stars like Bono at the World Economic Forum. My draw to the area has nothing to do with money or fame; I went there last February to shred with The Most Interesting Man in the Ski World. The Most Interesting Man in the Ski World, in case you are not familiar with him, is Beat Däscher, a bearded sixty-something Ernest Hemingway lookalike who is also a dead ringer for Jonathan Goldsmith, the actor who plays “The Most Interesting Man in the World” in those lovable Dos Equis beer ads. Based on my experience, hanging out with Däscher in Davos/Klosters is what I imagine rolling with Frank Sinatra in Las Vegas might have felt like during the early 1960s – everyone knows him, everyone loves him and everyone wants to buy him a drink. Being a method writer, I thought I’d immerse myself in a five-star ski world experience to better prepare for my role as his sidekick. With this in mind, I booked

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a ticket on Switzerland’s famed Glacier Express (a.k.a. The Most Interesting Ski Train in the World) and pulled into Davos Platz station after six hours of jaw-dropping panoramic mountain views, gourmet dining, and more than a few glasses of wine and champagne. I knew I’d entered the VIP realm when I saw a muscular, sharply dressed chauffeur make an immediate beeline for me as I rolled my ski bag off the platform. “May I please taking your bags, Meester Mass-tar-see-yahn,” he graciously asked in a heavy Russian accent, picking up my bulky ski duffle like it was a lady’s Louis Vuitton clutch purse and gently depositing it in the back of a shiny black Mercedes limo-van.

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Images of Davos and Klosters: Destination Davos Klosters Stefan Schlumpf

OPENING PAGE: The Steigenberger Grandhotel Belvédère. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The quaint village of KlostersSerneus sits at the foot of Lake Davos; everyone loves Beat Däscher; Klosters has regular visits from royalty, such as Prince Charles; the Landwasser Viaduct, one of the most iconic rail travel sights on the famed Glacier Express en route to Davos-Klosters.

“DO YOU WANT TO SKI IN THE TRACKS OF PRIME MINISTER PIERRE TRUDEAU HERE ON THE DAVOS SIDE, OR DO YOU WANT TO FOLLOW THE TRAILS PRINCE CHARLES LIKES TO TAKE IN KLOSTERS?” HE ASKED WITH A GRIN.

A few minutes later we pulled up in front of the Steigenberger Grandhotel Belvédère, a magnificent white building with Roman columns, with a definite White House/Buckingham Palace vibe to it. While checking in and exchanging pleasantries with the friendly front desk staff, I was instructed to give myself at least two hours for the seven-course dinner at the hotel’s highly rated Restaurant Belvédère that night. I nodded, smiled and giggled as I walked away thinking a two-hour meal was a ludicrous impossibility for a lone diner. Well, I was wrong. The meal actually took two hours and 31 minutes and was by far the best meal I’ve ever had on European

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soil. The dishes came in this amazing order: duck (with whole grain, mushrooms and Port wine sauce), beef consommé (vegetables, dumpling, chives), “Zurichstyle” veal (mushroom, rosti potatoes, parsley), lobster (with sweet potato, juniper and pak choi), assorted cheese selection (from France and Switzerland – the Appenzeller was amazing!), curd cheese soufflé (wild berries, honey, lemon), petit fours (to die for), and a bonus eighth course of homemade pineapple ice cream (also to die for). The next morning I hitched a ride with my favourite Russian chauffeur to pick up a pair of skis at Paarsenn Sport, a

great rental shop right at the foot of the Parsennbahn funicular that zips skiers from Davos Dorf to the heavenly corduroy fields of the Weissfluhjoch peak. Conditions for a corduroy junkie like me were “A1” according to the nice young man who handed me a pair of Rossignol Hero slalom boards to match the ones I had back home. Skis in hand, I walked next door to the Swiss Snowsportschool Davos and instantly recognized Mr. Däscher – the big smile, white beard and swashbuckling twinkle all dead giveaways that I was in the presence of The Most Interesting Man in the Ski World. “You’re a Davos legend,” I said, shaking his hand. “And I’ve heard you are The Most

Interesting Man in the Ski World. Is this true?” “Sure, why not?” he answered, with a big chuckle and a slap on my shoulder. Moments later we were riding the resort’s big red funicular up to the top of Weissfluhjoch before switching over to a cable car that took us to the Weissfluhgipfel peak overlooking Davos and the five other mountains that make up the 300 kilometres of trails in this spectacular vast ski area. With sunshine and limitless bluebird skies, Beat asked me where I would like to ski. “Do you want to ski in the tracks of Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau here on the Davos side, or do you want to follow the trails Prince Charles likes to take in Klosters?” he asked with a grin. “Let’s do both!” I replied, and we took off, clocking ungodly amounts of vertical on slopes that

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FEEL IT INSIDE LIVE IT OUTSIDE

Breakfast at the Steigenberger Grandhotel Belvédère overlooking Davos.

were manicured to perfection on buttery soft snow just begging to be carved. Growing up in the era of Trudeaumania, I knew the father of our current PM was quite the avid outdoorsman and an avid alpine skier. I grilled Beat for a who’s who list of famous people he’d guided or instructed as we were making our way up the mountain, but he told me that he would not name names – though he did admit to skiing with many very famous world leaders, celebrities and royalty since the early 1970s. After one particularly spectacular run, when I asked if he’d ever skied with Trudeau the Elder, he smiled and his eyes grew wide. Convinced

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“THE RESTAURANT WAS BEYOND CROWDED, BUSTLING WITH SERVERS IN TRADITIONAL SWISS GARB FERRYING BEERLADEN TRAYS TO THE THRONGS OF THIRSTY SKIERS PACKED INSIDE.”

he’d skied with Mr. Trudeau, I pressed hard. Realizing I wouldn’t relent, Beat agreed to spill, since Mr. Trudeau had passed on, and because he only had good things to say about Canada’s 15th Prime Minister. “I remember him as a very down-toearth, classy gentleman with no pretensions whatsoever,” Beat confessed. “He was very keen and excited to be skiing in the Swiss Alps. He was a good skier, and whatever he lacked in natural skill, he made up for with a passion and love for the sport. He was a really cool guy.” Parched and hungry from an epic morning of slope slaying, we decided to stop for lunch and drinks on our way to the Klosters side of the resort at an ancientlooking, dark brown timbered Swiss chalet called Berghaus Alte Schwendi. It was here that I realized I truly was skiing with The Most Interesting Man in the Ski World, the Sinatra of Davos. The restaurant was

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Images of Davos and Klosters: Destination Davos Klosters KRAFIK DESIGN

“EVERYONE IS EQUAL WHEN YOU ARE ON SKIS. YOU MAY BE A PRIME MINISTER OR A PRINCE, BUT WHEN YOU ARE ON THE SLOPES, YOU ARE FIRST AND FOREMOST A SKIER … AND THAT’S WHAT SO BEAUTIFUL ABOUT THIS SPORT.”

Mackenzie Investments is a proud sponsor of Manny Osborne-Paradis.

The famed Parsenn ski resort has 20 lifts with nearly 100 kilometres of slopes.

beyond crowded, bustling with servers in traditional Swiss garb ferrying beer-laden trays to the throngs of thirsty skiers packed inside. But as Beat walked in, he was greeted like a pope by servers and patrons alike, each seemingly thrilled to be in his presence, each calling out his name. In the blink of an eye we were seated at a prime table in a cozy room decorated with old wooden skis and antlers. Over an exquisite bowl of Gulasch and a magical elixir of mountain berries and carbonated water, I asked Beat about the other famous person he’d mentioned as a regular skier in these parts. “I know Klosters is Prince Charles’s favourite ski area,” I said. “Uh, have you ever guided His Royal Highness?” “Well, I’ll answer that one because I’m

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not giving anything away,” he replied with a smile. “I’ve never guided the prince or given him any lessons, but I have skied with him, and I can tell you he is an excellent skier. I was guiding a group of Brits once in Klosters, and we all ended up taking the Gotschnaboden Gondola together. I ended up chatting with His Royal Highness going up the mountain, and my group skied a few runs with his group. Like your Mr. Trudeau, he was very friendly, and just like a regular guy, with no royal airs. It was a great experience, and it’s one that sticks out in my memory for sure.” Impressed with Beat’s openness, I figured I’d give the guy a break and told him I’d quit the journalist routine and focus on skiing for the rest of the day. Later that afternoon, Beat offered to give me a lift

back to the Steigenberger and invited me to dinner the next night at his cattle ranch, which makes perfect sense – only The Most Interesting Man in the Ski World would also be a successful cattle baron in the off-season! Driving toward the hotel, the journalist in me felt it was appropriate to ask the ski oracle of Davos and Klosters one more question. “What’s the most important thing you’ve learned meeting all of these famous people over the years?” I asked. “A simple truth,” Beat replied. “Everyone is equal when you are on skis. You may be a prime minister or a prince, but when you are on the slopes, you are first and foremost a skier and a human being just like everyone else – and that’s what so beautiful about this sport.”

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Tips

Suggestions and tips from the pros BY JOSH FOSTER

“FEELING GOOD” IS IN MANY CASES THE ENEMY OF PROGRESS.

BREAK FREE FROM THE ROUTINE

Rediscover your home mountain by banishing “skiing sameness” I see it all the time on the mountain: skiing the same lines on the same runs and the same turn shapes at the same speeds. It feels good. It’s familiar. You know what you like, so why not go back to the good feeling for as many runs as possible? Well, what about boredom and stagnation in developing your skiing skills? I know, I know, I just said boredom and skiing in the same sentence. You may not think that’s possible, but stagnating certainly is, and even regressing a little bit is possible if you don’t change it up every now and then. One of the biggest offending groups with regards to “skiing sameness” is ski instructors, whose repetition in the same environment occurs under the guise of learning a motor pattern. While repeating a movement is necessary to acquire the feelings associated with it when introducing a new skill, trying those movements in different terrain situations – in different snow conditions, at different speeds and in different turn shapes – will actually help consolidate those movements. It takes a little discomfort

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or challenge to make a change or add something new and be comfortable down the road. “Feeling good” is in many cases the enemy of progress. Feeling good is often why we go back to comfortable places on the mountain and a comfortable turn shape. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying that you should feel bad while you’re skiing – the furthest thing from it, actually – but feeling different every now and then means that you’re changing something, and change is more often than not associated with progress or improvement. Turn shape is probably the thing that people get most comfortable with and stick with in every situation. But you’d use a variety of different golf clubs to get the ball in the hole, right? The same thing goes with turn shape – varying it will open up the mountain for you. A shorter turn is good in the bumps, steeps and trees. When making an adjustment with turn shape, it’s mostly about the tempo at which you turn your legs. Add a bit of quickness and your turn shape will

naturally tighten up, especially if you maintain it for the entire run. Once you feel comfortable, try that new turn shape on a different part of the run, or even mix up the size throughout the run. I’m often guilty of skiing sameness, too, and that stands out for me when I find myself at the top of a bump run, especially a familiar one. I know the line that works, so I go back to it, searching for that “good” feeling. But I know that if I want to improve or sharpen a skill, I need to try a different line – maybe faster, maybe slower and maybe with a different turn shape. I know that if I challenge myself, then when I find myself staring down a new run at a new place, I have the bag of tricks or skill set needed. The best part about adding variety to your skiing? It can actually help you rediscover your home mountain or ski hill. By mixing up turn shape, speed and line, you will not only strengthen your skiing skills; you might just find another reason to love where you ski.

The NZ Foundation is a not for profit organization that is committed to making ski racing safer by providing ski safety nets, safety equipment and training opportunities for both coaches and athletes.

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Photo by Grant Gunderson.

PARTING SHOT

FIRE & ICE

Guests at the Snowwater Heli Skiing lodge in the West Kootenays practise the unique après-ski with fire and ice shots.

FEEL

INNOVATION

E V E N T H E B E S T T E C H N O L O G Y I S N ’ T A L W AY S O B V I O U S O N T H E O U T S I D E . B U T T H E M O M E N T Y O U C L I P I N T O T H E S U P E R S H A P E S K I , Y O U ’ L L T R U LY F E E L T H E D I F F E R E N C E . T H A N K S T O U LT R A - L I G H T G R A P H E N E A N D K E R S A C C E L E R AT I O N , Y O U ’ L L E N J O Y S K I I N G I N I T S P U R E S T P O S S I B L E F O R M . 98 S–MAGAZINE | snowsportsculture.com

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