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Out There Advertiser Spotlight: MOUNTAIN VIEW CYCLERY
FITTINGLY, this story begins with a bike ride.
Husband and wife shop owners John Bowman and Beven Rich were living in Michigan when Beven went on a 7-weeklong charity ride (called The Big Ride), which took her through Idaho en route from Seattle to Washington, D.C. She was hooked. The couple had been itching to move west, but this ride made Beven fall in love with Idaho in particular. Soon after, the two packed up for the Inland Northwest to continue their industry of passion: bikes. They rolled into town with their U-hauls the Wednesday before the first Ironman CDA. For over 20 years now, Mountain View Cyclery has been serving the North Idaho cycling community and beyond.
“We’ve been fortunate to watch the cycling community take off, not just in North Idaho, but the whole region,” says Bowman. “Although it’s not perfect, we honestly have better bicycling infrastructure here than most places would even dream of. And it keeps getting better.”
Bowman is passionate about the entire cycling scene. Outside of Mountain View, which is a full-service bike shop located in Hayden, Bowman improves local biking infrastructure with his trail-building efforts. Thanks to his dentist, who was a shop patron, Bowman got connected with trail building in Idaho and was instrumental in establishing the Empire Trails system around Spirit Lake, which “snowballed,” in Bowman’s words, to the approximately 10 miles of trail it is now.
This summer, Bowman is teaming up on a new project with Evan Frantz of Cykel Works to recognize the dream of establishing a trail system on Rathdrum Mountain. In what will be known as the “StormKing Trails,” Bowman and Frantz, who are also both musicians, plan to bring their creativity to play and create a state-of-the-art trail system that will highlight the beauty of the land with a flowier ride than the Empire Trails. The first trails on Rathdrum Mountain should be complete in early summer this
year, and Bowman says they can’t wait to share the “finished album” with the public.
“Having the ability to work on these trail projects really helps us contribute to our local environment for years to come,” says Bowman. “We have been given the ability to contribute to making our corner of the world a better place, in our own little way. Ain’t going to mess that up.”
Meanwhile, things at Mountain View Cyclery roll on with a passionate staff who feed off one another’s energy. The full-service bike shop offers tune ups, bike fittings, suspension service and brake bleeds. They carry a variety of brands, from Aventon to Jamis, Pinarello, Nukeproof, Marin, and Otso. And they love to talk shop.
According to Bowman, the future is bright. His only wish is to find a bit more time to ride. Visit Mtnviewcyclery.com or visit the shop at 8933 N. Commerce Dr. in Hayden, Idaho.
Sitting in a floatie somewhere on a lake.
Tabitha: Floating the Little Spokane River in an open kayak.
Alana: Whitewater rafting, but pretty much ANY water activity makes me happy!
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Out There Outdoors is published 6 times a year by Out There Monthly, LLC.
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©Copyright 2024 Out There Monthly, LLC. The views expressed in this magazine reflect those of the writers and advertisers and not necessarily Out There Monthly, LLC.
Disclaimer: Many of the activities depicted in this magazine carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. Rock climbing, river rafting, snow sports, kayaking, cycling, canoeing and backcountry activities are inherently dangerous. The owners and contributors to Out There Monthly / Out There Outdoors do not recommend that anyone participate in these activities unless they are experts or seek qualified professional instruction and/or guidance, and are knowledgeable about the risks, and are personally willing to assume all responsibility associated with those risks.
PROUD MEMBER OF
Learning the Lexicon of the Places We Love
THE FIRST TIME I saw a grouse in the backcountry, I thought it was a chicken.
It’s just one of many backpacking stories that have solidified in our family’s repertoire
of it all, the alpine country leaving me awestruck in addition to aching from my first time carrying a pack.
Spotting something as familiar as a
a glimpse of the fat, brown bird disappearing into the brush. And it tastes great with butter.
I was 18 at the time, embarrassed by my
can’t really get to know a place until you have the language for it.
This month, I learned some of the language surrounding the Spokane River. When I first moved to Spokane, I became enamored with the river. I stumbled more than once while trail running for staring at its color and flow. But I knew this was a surface-level love; I did not yet have the language of this new place I was starting to call home.
To start collecting those words, I took my first whitewater rafting trip on the Spokane. I interviewed folks from the Spokane Riverkeeper, local tribes, and conservation groups. I intentionally added to my lexicon: Redband Trout, Strainers, Treaty rights. PCBs, Discharge Permits, River Flow.
The theme for this issue of Out There is both backcountry and lakes, or the many waterways we have in the Inland Northwest that you might enjoy when the heat of July and August strikes. Read on about wing foiling, horseback riding, and our favorite swimming holes. Peruse my feature on the Spokane River. It’s all in service of this: this
DISPATCHES
OUT THERE OUTDOORS CELEBRATES 20TH ANNIVERSARY WITH LAUNCH OF NEW MEMBERSHIP CAMPAIGN
SPOKANE, WASH.
“Out There Outdoors” will celebrate its 20th year of publishing with the upcoming September-October print edition, a landmark for the local, family-owned outdoor adventure and lifestyle publication.
Originally founded as “Out There Monthly” by long-time Spokanite and former Spokane City Council Member Jon Snyder, Out There has provided an authentic voice for the Inland Northwest outdoors community in print and online since 2004. One way the publication is celebrating this landmark is by introducing an Out There Membership, which will provide perks for both members and the future of the magazine.
Out There was first published in an era when quality online information about the outdoors was scant, and smart phones and social media were not widely used. Out There weathered many challenges, from the Great Recession to the rise of the digital revolution and the COVID-19 pandemic. While many other print publications have struggled or disappeared, niche publications like Out There with a hyper-local focus on outdoor recreation, nature, and meaningful storytelling have seen a rise in popularity.
Many outdoor enthusiasts strive to spend less time on their phones and reading on screens. Relevant mountain culture publications that readers can hold in their hands, including “Mountain Gazette,” “Adventure Journal,” and others, have become a refuge for readers fatigued by a constant barrage of digital marketing. The new Out There Membership will help to keep the print version of this magazine a reality.
“We hope to continue to publish Out There in print for another 20 years,” noted Out There owners Derrick and Shallan Knowles. Out There’s readership and advertising base has grown over the last decade, with an estimated 100,000 readers mostly in Spokane and North Idaho picking up 30,000-35,000 free copies of each edition.
“Our advertisers and readers make publishing Out There in print possible, and we are grateful for the opportunity to create each issue and contribute to the local outdoors community,” says Shallan. But with the costs of putting together a print publication growing every year, combined with the Knowles’ desire to keep advertising costs affordable for many small business and non-profit advertisers, the new membership campaign will give loyal readers the opportunity to contribute toward continued adfree, reader-supported stories and articles. In addition to making Out There less dependent on advertising, Out There members will get a range of perks with their annual membership. All members will get an invite to an annual party, with the first one happening this September. Members will have the chance to provide input on the types of content they would like to see more of via an annual member survey. Membership will also come with some valuable deals and discounts from advertisers.
“We are excited to roll out some great Out There member exclusive deals, including discounts from outdoor retailers like Solnix and Spokane Alpine Haus, discounts on rock climbing passes, lift ticket perks, and many other benefits,” says Shallan.
Visit Out There’s membership page at Outthereoutdoors.com for more info and to sign up as a member to be a part of the growing Out There Outdoors community. (OTO)
MT. SPOKANE ANNOUNCES NEW HANDLE TOW LIFT
MEAD, WASH.
The newest lift upgrade at Mt. Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park announced in May will see the installation of the Half Hitch Handle Tow in the Half Hitch Terrain Park. The mountain reports the lift will be ready for action in the upcoming 24-25 winter season. With its 692foot rope length and a top speed of almost 400 feet per minute, the lift promises to transform the terrain park experience for skiers and snowboarders alike. Capable of transporting up to 700 people per hour, this addition will streamline movements in the terrain park, reducing
congestion on Parkway Express (Chair 3).
Mt. Spokane general manager Jim van Löben Sels says the move demonstrates the mountain’s commitment to providing an unparalleled terrain park experience that caters to all ability levels. “Our dedicated team works tirelessly to maintain and enhance the park's features, with plans to broaden our range of events and programs. The new lift represents a milestone in our plans for terrain park expansion, making us the only local mountain to offer a lift specifically for terrain park users.” (OTO)
PEND OREILLE COUNTY ROWING AND PADDLING EVENTS
PRIEST RIVER, IDAHO
The Pend Oreille Rowing and Paddling Association (PORPA) is gearing up for another season of on-water events. The club for rowing and other non-motorized water sports is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a club row July 13 from Thama Shores to Riley Creek at LaClede, Idaho. Rowers will gather, launch boats and row, followed by a celebration with food and refreshments.
The annual PORPA Sprints on the Priest River at the Priest River Recreation Area (aka the Mudhole) is set for Saturday Aug. 3 with a day of non-motorized, fun races for stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, canoes, row ing shells, water bikes, and even boats made of cardboard. All ages and abilities are wel come, and PORPA organizers are hopeful to add 10-20 new youth to participate this year. More info at Porpa.org. (OTO)
KETTLE FEST DESCENDS ON THE COLVILLE NATIONAL FOREST
REPUBLIC, WASH.
The annual pilgrimage of mountain bikers from across the Northwest to the northeast corner of Washington known as Kettle
Fest continues July 17-21. The five-day event hosted by Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance and Evergreen East includes camp ing, trail work, and epic singletrack riding in the Kettle Crest area of the Colville National Forest. Organizers hail the trails as some of the best sub-alpine backcountry singletrack in the state. Not for the faint of heart, most of the rides have a considerable amount of climbing and some technical sections, but as anyone who has ridden in the Kettles will tell you, the descents are totally worth the work. Participants can join for all or part of the festivities but need to register at Evergreenmtb.org. (OTO)
SPOKANE WOMAN COMPETES AT HIGHLINE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP IN SWITZERLAND
SPOKANE, WASH.
Twenty-five-year-old Spokane resident and EWU student Kara Ratcliff is one of 42 athletes competing in the upcoming Highline World Championship, July 17-21 in Laax, Switzerland. She will be competing in the Freestyle Female division against 11 other women, including one other American.
Ratcliff, who moved to Spokane from Boulder, Colorado, in fall 2022 and is a student in EWU’s Physical Therapy doctorate program, has been slacklining for less than three years. “I grew up doing gymnastics and have always enjoyed doing flips and being upside down,” she says. Highline athletes get to be creative with their movements, including tricks, which Ratcliff enjoys. “And I like being outside. So highlining combines two things I love,” she says. For highlining, Ratcliff wears a climbing harness with a two- to fourfoot leash (climbing rope) attached to the oneinch-wide highline, which is typically 60-80 meters long for freestyle (approx. 197-262 feet).
The World Championship will be Ratcliff’s very first in-person highline competition. Last year, she competed in a virtual international competition, Bring Your Own Bounce, where athletes posted videos to
Instagram of them highlining to be judged on the style and difficulty of their tricks and combos. She placed second in the Open category. Ratcliff qualified for the World Championship as the “Wild Card Winner” to compete against the International Slackline Association’s (ISA) Top 10 Women. To be considered for the open “Wild Card” spot, Ratcliff submitted two videos that demonstrated her skills.
To prepare for the Championship, Ratcliff has been practicing one to two hours at a time on the line. “I have to put a lot of tricks in a row—a combo—so I have a journal with combination ideas, and I practice those over and over again,” she says. While she has some prepared tricks that she knows she’ll want to do, Freestyle is not a choreographed routine. One must “be able to pivot if a trick doesn’t go the right way,” she says. Most of all, Ratcliff aims to have fun “because it helps with my creativity on the line.” Ratcliff says she is excited for the opportunity to train with professional highliners, all of whom she’s only seen online. “Getting to learn from them will be super fun,” she says. The Highline World Championship will be livestreamed; find more info at Swiss-slackline. ch. (Amy McCaffree)
VAN WORLD
PERMACULTURE SUMMER CAMPS
Within our communities, there are property owners forgoing their lawnmowers and opting for more sustainable landscaping practices like going pesticide-free, planting drought-tolerant ground cover, creating rain and rock gardens, adding plant diversity, and nourishing food forests. The latter is the main focus of a Permaculture/ Regenerative Agriculture Summer Camp (July 8-Aug. 30) for ages 3-17, with adult workshops also available. It started with boots on the ground in search of a site and a lead teacher. Synchronicity happened; the site is a large front yard in Spokane Valley that has been rewilding for the last four years and the teacher is Annalisa Giust, a permaculture expert. The plan is to turn the yard into a food forest. “Creating a food forest with kids not only teaches them essential life skills, but also creates lasting memories and builds a lifelong relationship with nature,” says Giust.
Each of the eight weeks focus on different aspects of permaculture; observation, gathering, water practices, composting, mushrooms, infrastructure, diversity, and planting. Camp director and founder of Spokane Learning Co-op Katy Purviance is looking forward to getting dirty. “There’s something magical about being outside with your hands in the dirt and bringing new things to life,” she says.
Field trips are planned to a permaculture farm and a worm farm. Camp goers can attend one week or all eight. Affordable and flexible, the camp is designed to suit the curious as well as the committed. “It’s important for kids to learn what permaculture is and how it works,” says Purviance. “It’s about more than just understanding sustainability and stewardship, it’s also about experiencing the interconnectedness of all things.” For more information, visit Summer Camp ’24 at Spokanelearningcoop.org. (Jennifer LaRue)
BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL RETURNS TO MEDICAL LAKE AFTER GRAY FIRE
MEDICAL LAKE, WASH.
Since 2002, the Blue Waters Bluegrass Festival has been bringing talented bluegrass musicians to the shores of Medical Lake at Waterfront Park, just a 20-minute drive west of downtown Spokane. Over the years, Blue Waters has brought some of the biggest names in bluegrass music to the Inland Northwest. This year’s festival, which runs Aug. 9-11, is no exception. The 2024 lineup includes New Dangerfield, a black musician string band, noted as being “on a mission to liberate the Black string band tradition;” Full Chord, an upand-coming Michigan-based band that won the 2022 Telluride Bluegrass Band Competition; The Jacob Jolliff Band; Rock Ridge; True North Duo and other musicians from around the Inland Northwest.
This year’s festival also includes the 6th installment of the "Blue Waters Tribute Set," which will showcase "The Roots of Bluegrass." For the Saturday evening set, members of several of the bands playing the festival will join together into a rotating superband that will play a one-off of a series
of tunes that gave rise to the music now known as bluegrass. This unique one-timeonly set will give a historical perspective of the roots of bluegrass and will be narrated by the festival’s music director Kevin Brown. 2024 also finds the Bluewaters Bluegrass Festival and the City of Medical Lake recovering from the Gray Fire. Festival organizers have been coordinating closely with city officials to make this year another successful festival despite the challenges of the fire recovery. Much of the landscape surrounding the festival has been impacted, but fortunately the festival grounds were spared from the brunt of the fire. “We are looking forward to bringing bluegrass music lovers back to Waterfront Park and supporting the Medical Lake community,” says one of the festival organizers, Nick Burgis. Blue Waters is an inclusive and familyfriendly event. Children under 12 are free with parent or guardian and dry tent and RV camping sites are available to festival goers. Get tickets and find more info at Bluewatersbluegrass.org. (OTO)
Nature provides an ideal setting for enjoying meals amidst the beauty and tranquility of the open air. Spokane Chef Chad White's latest endeavor, Trailfeast, was inspired by his love of the outdoors, childhood memories, and passion for food. After cooking upscale dishes off the back of his truck for Terrain Table, White realized the joy of “trailgating” and envisioned a lifelong pursuit of creating connections through food in nature.
Trailfeast is set in a remote destination, where guests are greeted with specialty cocktails and the aroma of dinner upon arrival. With dinner set for 7:30 p.m., guests have time to settle in, meet others, and watch the chef prepare a 10-course spectacle using open fire and primitive cooking techniques. When dinner is ready, guests make their way down a rock-lined path to an enchantingly-lit, long table underneath a canopy of Douglas firs.
Out There contributor Alana Livingston attended Trailfeast in June. The meal included offerings of blue fin tuna with ponzu, lime and sea beans, quail with “bug mayo” and fiddleneck ferns, and charred octopus with shishito peppers. Guests were able to enjoy great conversation around the campfire and amongst the symphony of nature. Although not required, guests can stay the night providing their own sleep arrangements. Livingston would recommend staying, as she awoke to the scent of foie gras French toast and leg of lamb hash, accompanied by a breakfast cocktail called “hair of the bear” which entailed coffee, tequila and a tres leches rum foam.
Trailfeast encourages slowing down and savoring each moment. Chef White has crafted an experience that nourishes both body and soul, emphasizing life’s greatest provisions: good food, great company, and the beauty of nature. This unique blend of fine dining and wilderness adventure leaves guests with lasting memories and a renewed appreciation for the world around them. The plan is to offer Trailfeast nationwide in the long run and year-round. As for now, guests can book these exclusive outings online at Trailfeast.com or inquire about a private custom designed Trailfeast for your adventure group. Upcoming dates include July 13, July 27, and Aug. 3. Trailfeast promises an unforgettable experience to “dine wild.”
(Alana Livingston)
Road & Gravel?
Closeouts on remaining 3T stock PLUS incredible deals from Pinarello! Closeout Grevils w/GRX or Grangers w/AXS for $2899. Prince road w/ Ultegra Di2 for $3500 w/Fulcrum aluminum wheels or $4000 w/Most Carbon wheels!
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Marin Rift Zone (Trail/140) from $3599 or less
Marin Alpine Trail (AM/160) from $3899 or less
Madness and Mayhem, Franchises Available
By Justin Short
MY
ILLUSTRIOUS CAREER as an Out
There columnist kicked off with an article titled “Madness and Mayhem on the Midnight Century.” I’ve been accused of being the organizer of the now legendary Midnight Century (MC), Spokane’s all-night gravel ride that goes down on the first Saturday night in August, but this grassroots event predates my arrival here by a good eight years. The hero of Inland Northwest cycling who did organize it enjoys his anonymity, so we’ll just keep his identity a mystery, but he did pull together that first ride 20 years ago as of this issue.
I’ve heard murmurings in the greater cycling community that riders in other towns would like to have their own MC, and it occurred to me that the “platinum anniversary” would be a momentous occasion upon which to franchise this thing out. Having received permission from the aforementioned mystery organizer, I began brainstorming. Yakima will have already kicked things off by the time you read this (June 21). My local fixer in Sandpoint, Idaho, has gotten really quiet lately (where the hell are you, Grafton?!!), but that one is set to roll
show up to ride a route like this, especially at night.
Lattes swilled and sandwiches stashed, we embarked through some rather impressive bike infrastructure, and within minutes we were pedaling into a delightful mountain valley on the Rattle Snake Trail. The trees were tall and the thick mossy foliage on the forest floor was a vibrant green. We were lichen it. (See what I did there?) The trail was wide and smooth, and definitely receives a lot of love from the many hikers, trail runners, and bikers we met along the way. Although, the enduro mountain bikes we saw folks unloading at the trailheads were a sure sign that our idyllic Cadillac gravel and gentle grade would not last forever. The path meandered for far longer than either of us would have imagined, until all at once we hung a hard right onto steep single track.
Fresh snowmelt tumbled down the mountain into the east fork of Rattle Snake Creek, giving the air a crisp and clean bite. Some of the unrideable parts of this trail were unrideable because this was the first climb of a 116mile route with 13,000 feet of climbing, and we would need to conserve legs. But most of it was just plain unrideable. We had been “riding” six hours by the time we cleared the summit of our first climb, and yet it was still our favorite section of the whole misadventure, despite the solid hour of tree hoisting waiting for us up there.
The day was young and we had plenty of time to cover the miles yet to come, or so we thought. The only humans we encountered
let slip that it was after 5 p.m. as we began our first descent. That’s information I prefer not to know in such situations. Sarah joked with haunting accuracy that we might just finish the route in time to check out from our hotel tomorrow. And that’s the danger of whipping up a backcountry route from heat maps and other dotted lines on your GPS mapping platform. You never really know until you get out there what kind of traps you’ve set for yourself: private property, impassible bushwhacking sections, hydroelectric dams that you can’t cross for four days, just to name a few.
As it was, we really lucked out with this route. There were sweeping mountain vistas that were worth any amount of slogging to witness, more miles of Cadillac gravel than expected, great weather, and a heart-rending sunset. In the end, we skipped the last two mountain segments. We probably had legs for it, but those 24-hour weekend rambles can make it hard to show up for work on Monday and/or get this column submitted on time (sorry Lisa).
We still haven’t solved the problem of getting a route together for the Missoula MC, but you can check in on MidnightCentury. com. Maybe the 21st anniversary will be the one to celebrate, because then the Midnight Century will be old enough to drink.
Justin Short may be recovered by now from PanRam—The Idaho Panhandle Ramble, a 340-ish mile bikepacking adventure out of CDA into the mountains beyond. Hopefully our dear managing editor will approve a feature article for a future issue of OTO.
out from Matchwood Brewing up there at 11:59 p.m. on July 20—we just need a route.
Missoula, ahhhh, Missoula. That one is slated for 11:59 p.m. on August 17. We don’t have a start location or a route for Missoula just yet, not that I didn’t make one. I’ve been stopping at Drum Coffee out there every week since last fall to doink around on my phone to see where people are riding, all while sipping an exceptional latte and yakking with the locals. I whipped up a sample route for a Missoula MC, which a local rider assured me would be horrible, but not too horrible on gravel bikes. I titled the route “Missoula Rough Sketch,” and picked a date soon after the spring melt to give it a test ride to see just how rough and sketchy this route would be.
This is where we segue into the “backcountry” theme of this issue of OTO. Adventure rider extraordinaire Sarah Roestel and I rolled into Drum Coffee a little after 10 a.m. for caffeine and snacks last month. I had already abandoned the idea of using today’s route for the Missoula MC as I had just read an email from a local bike shop guy assuring me that no one in their right mind would
GET OUT THERE
Cool Off at These North Idaho Swimming Holes
By Eric Deady
WHEN I THINK of getting out there, especially during the summer months, I think of water, and how to get myself into it. There’s no place quite like the Idaho Panhandle when it comes to swimming opportunities, and it’s as easy as a summer breeze to find a great place to dip your toes.
Whether we live here full time, or are just passing through, we are lucky to find ourselves in a place that Neptune himself could have designed. Lakes, rivers, creeks, springs, and ponds criss-cross and dot the landscape of North Idaho in every conceivable size and shape, and all are tantalizingly clear and fresh. So if you’re looking to spend a lazy afternoon in the water, there’s no better way than to grab a book, a towel, and some snacks, and head on over to any one of my favorite swimming spots in the region. Here are three of my favorites!
TUBBS HILL (COEUR D'ALENE)
For an easy-to-reach spot, Tubbs Hill near downtown Coeur d’Alene is a postcardperfect nugget of rock and trees that juts out into Lake CDA. It is home to some of the most beautiful beaches and swimming spots around. From any place in town, you are no more than a 15-minute walk from a dip into some of the clearest mountain
water you could hope to find. There is a 2-mile trail that rings the hill, and all along the trail are spots to venture off and find a nice little piece of paradise. If solitude isn’t a priority, you can join the ever-present groups of thrill seekers jumping from the rocks near the start of the trail.
BEAVER BAY (FARRAGUT STATE PARK)
If big mountain views, protected swimming areas, and world-class camping are your jam, head on over to Lake Pend Oreille, a short drive north of Coeur d’Alene, where you will find the jewel of the Idaho State Parks system, Farragut State Park. Here, Beaver Bay Beach will greet you with its emerald green waters and breathtaking views. There is a protected swimming area here, so bring the kids, set up an umbrella, and soak in some of that clear mountain water to get a taste of what makes North Idaho so special. Farragut State Park is also just a fun place to visit, with miles of challenging MTB trails, five disc golf courses, and multiple campgrounds, all situated along the largest and deepest lake in Idaho.
LIONHEAD SLIDES (PRIEST LAKE)
My final swimming spot is probably my
favorite! This place is very remote, requiring a multiple-hour drive and a strenuous hike before you arrive, but the rewards are well worth the effort. Situated deep within a sub-alpine valley, and ringed by towering granite slabs and cliffs, is Lion Creek, which drains into the north end of Priest Lake. This creek seems unremarkable until you hike along its wandering course for several miles and come across one of the natural wonders of North Idaho, the Lionhead Slides. Here, the cool water cascades over a series of smooth granite slabs, which are just slimy enough to allow a person to slide down them at terrifyingly fast speeds, only to be deposited unceremoniously into one of the pools at the bottom with a satisfying splash. The slides are 5 miles up a 4x4-accessible dirt road, with an additional 1.5-mile hike. The water is cold, the danger real, and the effort great, but for those willing to seek out the adventure, the memories will be lasting.
Eric Deady lives in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, where he spends his time bikepacking, raising his kids, and exploring the endless expanses of forest around the Pacific Northwest. If he's not on his bike, you can usually find him fixing one.
The Trailhead
Inland NW Trail & Outdoor News
By Holly Weiler
FREE OUTDOOR ENTERTAINMENT
• Chelan-Douglas Land Trust is hosting a free Hike for Health series each month throughout the year. The mid-summer outings are at Chelan River Trail on July 20 and Stormy Creek Preserve on Aug. 17. For each event, participants can choose between a guided interpretive walk or a self-guided hike and will receive a ticket for a raffle drawing for health-centered prizes.
• Aug. 4 is the anniversary of the Great American Outdoors Act, a fee-free day for entry to all National Parks.
• Start indoors on Aug. 17 with a showing of the film The Big Burn at the Rex Theatre in Thompson Falls to mark the 114th anniversary of the 1910 wildfires, then follow it up with a hike on the Pulaski Trail outside Wallace on Aug. 18 with Friends of Scotchman Peaks Wilderness. Friends of Scotchman Peaks will be offering several other free summer outings in July and August, ranging from foraging to family camping to strenuous backpack trips.
FUNDRAISERS
• Okanogan Highlands Alliance will be hosting their annual Get Lost trail race and camping weekend July 6-7. Enjoy beautiful Lost Lake and learn more about OHA on Saturday, then lace up for Sunday’s trail race with distance options of 3, 7 or 10 miles.
• Support Kaniksu Land Trust’s Pine Street Woods in Sandpoint at “In a Landscape — Classical Music in the Wild” the evening of Monday, July 29. Pianist Hunter Noack will play a grand piano, and the audience is encouraged to wander through Pine Street Woods while listening via wireless headphones. Tickets are $40.
CONSERVATION, STEWARDSHIP & VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES
• American Hiking Society is hosting a week-long volunteer vacation in the Hurricane Creek drainage of the Eagle Cap Wilderness, Aug. 10-17. Due to grant funding for this project, there is a reduced registration fee of $250 for this pack-supported backpack trip with meals and snacks provided by AHS.
• Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance will be
hosting a volunteer work party at Jungle Hill near the Kettle Crest on July 20-21 as a portion of their Kettle Fest event.
• Friends of Scotchman Peaks Wilderness will be leading several trail work projects throughout the summer, including work on their namesake trail on July 13 and an overnight trip to Star Gulch July 27-28.
• Hells Canyon Recreation Collaborative and Idaho Trails Association will be partnering for a project at the historic Kirkwood Ranch in Hells Canyon on July 15-17. Volunteers will receive jetboat transportation to and from the project location each day, along with materials that need to be staged for a bridge replacement project. The work will consist of helping move materials closer to the project site.
• Idaho Trails Association has a full summer schedule, with highlights including a Fault Lake daytrip on July 13, multi-day offerings like their Pend Oreille Divide project Aug. 15-18, and week-long adventures like their project at Heart Lake in the Mallard Larkin Pioneer Area from Aug. 4-10. See their website idahotrailsassociation.org for the full list.
• Pacific Northwest Trail Association will add trail maintenance projects to the volunteer calendar throughout the summer, including unique opportunities to help pack in supplies for backcountry professional trail crews. One such opportunity is in support of the Whistler Canyon crew on Aug. 10-11. Traditional trail work events will also be available.
• Wallowa Mountains—Hells Canyon Trails Association will be moving trail projects to the high country for the summer season, including projects at North Fork Catherine Creek July 14-18 and North Minam Meadows Aug. 2-6.
• Washington Trails Association will be hosting Spokane-area daytrip projects at Mica Peak and Mount Spokane throughout the summer months, as well as backpacking trips including the Salmo Loop Aug. 1-4 and the Shedroof Divide at Shedroof Mountain Aug. 16-19.
Holly Weiler is the Eastern Washington Region Senior Coordinator for Washington Trails Association and will be spending much of her summer in the Salmo Priest Wilderness working on trails.
HIKE OF THE MONTH LITTLE SPAR LAKE
LITTLE SPAR LAKE is located on the Montana side of the proposed Scotchman Peaks Wilderness just west of Highway 56 near the Bull River in Montana. The hike is not long, but the trail is rugged and steep. Most visitors come for the day, but there are a limited number of campsites on the northeast side of the lake for those who wish to spend the night.
One of the best ways to enjoy Little Spar Lake is to join a Friends of Scotchman Peaks Wilderness day hike or backpack trip in order to enjoy a guided experience, as portions of the route in can be tricky for a first-time visitor (speaking from experience, as my first trip accidently included a short and steep detour most of the way to nearby Spar Peak before I realized my mistake). If the timing doesn’t work out to join a guided hike, do the self-supported version described here, but do a better job than I did of studying the maps ahead of time!
Access is via the Forest Service Road west of Highway 56, with the road growing increasingly rough beyond big Spar Lake (high clearance vehicles advised). There is a large trailhead marking the beginning of the hike, which initially is along a former roadbed. When the trail leaves the road, it soon crosses a stream that might be tricky in the early season. Beyond the stream, prepare to climb! It’s only 3.7 miles from the trailhead to Little Spar with close to 2000’ elevation gain, but the majority of the gain occurs in the last two-thirds of the trail.
The return trip is tough on the knees instead of the lungs, so be sure to pack some trekking poles. But the views at the lake are well worth the effort involved in getting there, and, as a relatively warm alpine lake, Little Spar can be fantastic for a refreshing dip as reward for the challenging hike.
and 384. Continue past big Spar Lake and campground to road-end at the Little Spar Lake trailhead.
Read Where You Are Literation
nine-time Nobel nominee or even been to Greece. I did, however, have a Greek lover (as I recommend all people do at least one time in their life) who was trying to help me understand the great burden of being a Greek man.
In a country famous for producing the historically impactful (Plato, Socrates, Alexander the Great, El Greco, to name a few), the pressure to be the next prodigal son is apparently high. Also, olive harvesting is hard work, goats can climb trees, and you can yell at your priest if you apologize afterwards with an Ouzo. Or several.
Thus, I was gifted a copy of “Zorba the Greek,” followed by “The Last Temptation” and then “Report to Greco” as a sort of advanced coursework in understanding, as Zorba himself would say, “the whole catastrophe of life.” From a Greek’s perspective, that is.
The thing about perspective is that we’re really only granted our own unless we venture out to participate actively in that of the other. Even when we travel, we filter through our own lens as not just Americans (or whatever we are), but relatively privileged persons. We miss out on the nuances of a lived experience other than our own.
I believe everyone should read “Zorba,” because the wayward miner and lover of women and wine and, allegedly, hard work, brings with him a number of life’s wisdoms and charms. When he asks God for a sign of His existence, the almond trees blossom, as they always do. Until I smelled the trees in full bloom myself, I only vaguely grasped the cognitive experience. But being in a place offers a visceral one otherwise inaccessible, and breathing in the perfumed nectar of those blossoms added complexity and depth
This is my pitch to read when you travel— to read the local writers, the naturalists of the area, those who have written of how a place was and is and may someday be. Those who tease from the language the unique beauty of a place, its changing dialects, its dying flora and evolving fauna. When you go to the Everglades, read Marjory Stonemason Douglas. If you find yourself in Poland, read Olga Tokarczuk so you can feel the chill of wind coming off the beech trees and over the frozen hills while you slip into the rhythm of a small village and a cynical vegan. In Turkey, Orhan Pamuk will serenade you on historical politics or the art of hand-digging a well in the native soils. Either way, the olives will taste better.
Read the naturalists when you’re in nature, read the stories of the Indigenous Peoples because you live on their land, read the poems of a linguist who tried to save a language (Frederic Mistral in France and Joy Harjo of the Muscagee Nation when you’re in Tulsa, though she writes from many places).
What I learned most from reading local literature was that the imperative to read from the places we visit and the places we live is rather a moral obligation. It is also how we can expand our perspectives beyond our otherwise solipsistic experience. It opens our hearts and senses to the overlooked, lifts veils we do not know exist, and ultimately deepens our understanding of each other. How much we need that right now…
Ammi Midstokke’s adventures this year have led her to literature gold from Coeur d’Alene to Thessaloniki, from Spokane to Istanbul. Her late summer reading list includes Ben Goldfarb’s Crossings and a neglected copy of “The Monkey Wrench Gang.”
Hot Weather Running Hacks
By Sarah Hauge
IN HIGH SCHOOL, my friend Beth and I coined a term for ourselves: red-faced sisters. This referred to the way we looked— for hours—after exercise. We were two pale, rosy-undertoned teenagers who avoided sports and physical activity, preferring Reel Big Fish concerts, reading Allure magazine,
and watching old Beatles documentaries. After every PE class and warm walk home from school, our perma-flushed faces gave us away.
I’ve since become a runner and learned that being a red-faced sister isn’t about how often I exercise–it’s just who I am. It’s especially bad in the summer, the toughest season to run in for me. This year, I’m trying some tricks to stay a little cooler, recover faster and cope better. I’m sure my face will be just as pink and sweaty, but maybe I’ll feel a little better on the inside.
AVOID THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY. This is an obvious move, but it’s key to summer running success. Summer is the time to master running early or in the evening (which some runners prefer). Heart rate and perceived effort increase as temperatures rise; humidity bumps them up even more. Running early or late also lowers risks of negative effects from heat and sun exposure. Still, be sure to apply sunscreen, wear reflective gear if it’s dark, and hydrate well before, during and after all runs.
FREEZE YOUR WATER BOTTLE. Speaking of hydration, a tried-and-true trick is to fill
your water bottle halfway, freeze it on its side overnight, then top it off with water or an electrolyte drink when you’re heading out the door. Even on the hottest days, this will keep things cold as the ice melts throughout your run.
LAYER UP, BUTTERCUP. In general, I like to avoid extra clothing in the summer, but plunging a headband, bandana, or hat in frigid water before or midway through a run can help to cool your body.
COOL OFF FROM THE INSIDE OUT. Pre-run, lower your internal temperature with a slurry. A slurry is basically a slushy: a blend of ice and liquid. Before your run, toss a combo in the blender. Possible pairings include ice and coffee, ice and electrolyte mix, ice and water, or ice and juice.
MULTITASK BY . . . showering in your clothes. When I was browsing the internet for ideas about summer running, this one came up with surprising frequency. It won’t keep you cooler, but it is an odd summer tip worth mentioning. After a hot, sweaty run, jump in the shower in your running clothes. Suds them off, rinse them out,
and set them aside to dry while you finish showering as usual. Your reward is fewer stinky clothes waiting around for laundry day.
SLEEP IN IT. If mornings are a struggle but you’re trying to get in the habit of running bright and early, sleep in your running clothes to save yourself a few minutes.
DON’T FOLLOW THE SUN. Plan your runs along strategically shady routes. I don’t love out-and-backs, but on a hot day I’ll always opt for a few passes along the same treelined trail over an exposed sunny loop.
ASK A LOCAL. If you’re traveling this summer, google local running groups and find one you can join on a run. Who knows, they might direct you to a route that culminates in a dip in a lake or river—or at least point you towards a loop that takes you past the public water fountains you’ll need at critical moments.
Sarah Hauge is a local writer, editor, and grant writer who lives in Spokane with her husband and two kids. She plans to run the Sundae Sunday in September.
ikes! Summertime
is all about b
Here in the Inland Northwest, our sum mers are short. There is an urgency in the air to play as hard as we can, allowing our bones to soak up the heat and vitamin D, giving us a surge of bountiful energy.
The sun invites us to let go of our daily grind and responsibilities and reconnect with nature and the outdoors. Escaping to true wilderness offers a profound oppor tunity to disconnect from the urban hustle and immerse yourself in untouched natural beauty. This experience allows you to truly appreciate the raw, unspoiled landscapes and the serenity they provide.
Planning weekend getaways to nearby national parks, forests, or nature reserves can be a practical approach. These trips don't have to be lengthy; even a brief retreat they can rejuvenate your spirit and provide a sense of peace. Engage in activities like hik ing, camping, horseback riding or kayaking to fully immerse yourself in the wilderness.
Such activities not only provide physi cal exercise, but foster a deeper connection with nature and the opportunity for learning about the wild world our ancestors lived in. What foods did they eat? How did they shel ter themselves from the elements and preda tors? What did they carry water in? There is so much lost wisdom and it’s imperative to keep these traditions alive.
Gaining the wisdom of our ancestors enhances your outdoor adventures with selfconfidence and self-reliance. Knowing what to do when adventure turns awry can turn a surviving situation into a thriving situa tion. Learning ancestral wilderness skills is not only crucial for survival, but fun and inspiring. Just think about what you could make with willow. Perhaps a basket, or a stick horse for your child to play with, or a simple hotdog roasting stick. Not to mention that nibbling on willow bark is a great antidote for those troublesome headaches. And all this costs you nothing except some time spent outdoors.
And what about those rocks! Here’s a topic
confidence, self-reliance and unforgettable memories of family fun!
Of course, in summer, there are endless encounters with wildlife, from the finned to the furred and the feathered, providing a wealth of entertainment watching their mysterious movements and methods of survival for their species. Understanding their
Karie Lee Knoke is a wilderness/primitive skills instructor and founder of Sacred Cedars Wilderness School. She was a contestant on the reality survival TV show, Alone Season 9, on the History Channel. Go to www.karieleeknoke.com for more information, or follow her on Facebook @SacredCedarsWildernessSchool or Instagram @karie_lee_knoke
Roll in and get yourself some sunshine!
INDIAN FRYBREAD TACO THE HUNTER
By now, you have no doubt heard of the Indigenous Eats Restaurant through its many deserving accolades, which include USA Today’s 10 Best New Restaurants this year, most unique menu in Best in BID Awards, Best New Restaurant 2023 and Best Taco 2024 in the Best of Inlander.
Indigenous Eats is serving up Native American comfort food that intertwines the idea of traditional and contemporary culture meeting at the table. The main vessel for this relationship is Indian Frybread. Frybread is a delicious, perfectly-golden, deep-fried, pillowy, light dough (cue angelic music).
For the Hunter taco, the frybread is topped with black beans, shredded cheese, chunks of tomato, onion and shredded lettuce. Then, ground local bison seasoned strongly with sage (a sacred herb used historically for ceremonies and many health benefits) is added and topped with pickled jalapeño, tomatillo salsa and a sour cream drizzle. The ground bison is sourced from a Kalispell Tribe owned business, and Indigenous Eats hopes to source as many ingredients from local tribe-owned businesses as possible.
The Hunter Taco is nothing short of perfection. Deliciously seasoned, layers of flavor and textures are nostalgic in their own rite. Frybread can be served with sweet or savory toppings or used as buns in things like burgers or handhelds. Whatever your preference, I recommend you try some frybread as soon as possible! At Indigenous Eats, you can experience a culturally-significant food of the first peoples with a modern twist after recreating on native land. (Alana Livingston)
THE BREAKFAST COOKIE
As the former owner of a mobile coffee business as well as an outdoor enthusiast, I have gathered recipes that transport well and make great small bites to enjoy just about anywhere. One of my favorites is a cookie that you can eat for breakfast, snack, or dessert. It’s adapted from a former local restaurant’s recipe and is vegan, gluten free, nut free, and packed with flavor and protein.
INGREDIENTS: 1 ½ cups whole rolled gluten free oats // ½ cup gluten free oat flour // 1/3 cup organic cane sugar // ¼ tsp baking soda // ¼ tsp sea salt // ¼ tsp each: cinnamon, allspice, powdered ginger, powdered cloves, nutmeg // ¼ cup each: raw sunflower seeds, raw pumpkin seeds, dried currants, dried cranberries // ½ tsp vanilla extract // 3/8 cup quality tahini paste // 2 tsp fresh orange zest // ¼ cup orange juice // ¼ cup sunflower or avocado oil
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl, and, in a separate bowl, combine the wet ingredients. Mix wet and dry together until evenly moist and mixed. Shape dough into balls (about 45 grams each) and place onto the prepared sheet with a little space between. Press gently to slightly flatten. Place into the oven. Reduce the temperature to 375°F. Bake for 13-15 minutes until just turning golden. Remove and cool completely before enjoying. Makes 1 dozen cookies. (S. Michal Bennett)
CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE RICE CAKES
As good as store-bought energy bars taste, they cost two or three dollars a serving. You can make your own with plenty of the taste, calories, and electrolytes for about 50 cents each with this recipe.
INGREDIENTS: 2 cups short-grained or Arborio rice // 2 pounds cream cheese // 1 cup chocolate chips // 2 Tbsp coconut oil // 1/4 cup white sugar // 2 Tbsp Cocoa powder (or more to taste).
DIRECTIONS: 1) Cook rice, coconut oil, and white sugar in a rice cooker on an open stove until al dente. 2) Place cooked rice in a large mixing bowl. Fold in cream cheese, cocoa powder, and chocolate chips. Add more sugar or cocoa powder to taste. 3) Place mixture on 18” x 26” baking sheet covered in plastic wrap. Spread evenly and cover with plastic wrap and cool. 4) When cooled, cut widthwise into seven evenly sized lengths. Wrap each length in plastic wrap and freeze. 5) Pull from the freezer as needed and slice into four or five pieces. 6) Wrap individual portions in parchmentlined foil for eating on the go. Wrap as if wrapping a gift.
NUTRITION: Makes 30 portions. Each portion has roughly 200 calories with 17 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams fat, and three grams of protein. Electrolytes per serving about 120 mg sodium, 7 mg magnesium and 22 mg potassium. This recipe is a mashup of EF Education First and Saxo-Tinkoff recipes found online. (Bradley Bleck)
We love how the lemon and salt in this recipe makes the unique flavor of fresh heirloom tomatoes pop! Eat with a fork or focaccia bread for dipping.
INGREDIENTS:
• 3 medium heirloom tomatoes from Tonnemaker Hill Farm, sliced into ¼ inch rounds
• 1 clove of garlic from Royal Produce, minced
• 1/2 lemon, juiced
• 1 Tbsp fresh basil, oregano, and thyme from The Corner Farm, minced
• Salt and Black Pepper, to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Arrange the tomato slices on a serving platter. Sprinkle the minced garlic and squeeze the lemon over the tomatoes. Add a drizzle of olive oil, herbs, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.
(Courtesy of LINC Foods — The Local Inland Northwest Cooperative @ lincfoods.com.)
Talking to Goshawks
By Adam Gebauer
OVER 20 YEARS AGO I had my first job as a fledgling wildlife biologist on the Republic Ranger District in the Colville National Forest. That summer I saw my first bobcat, nearly biked into a bear, crossed the border for an air-conditioned movie theater and good wings, did loon nest success surveys, and sat outside caves to locate bat colonies, but the bulk of my job was trying to talk to goshawks. More accurately, I was doing call out surveys, where I would play the screeching call of a goshawk out into the waiting woods. Goshawks are extremely territorial and will respond to an intruder, many times, with more than a call back.
Goshawks, Accipiter atricapillus, are the largest member of the three North American woodland hawks, which include sharp-shinned and Cooper’s hawks. These agile, acrobatic forest hunters are collectively known as accipiters. They all use their relatively narrow wings and rudder-like tail to navigate dense branches and shrubs. You can identify the larger goshawks compared to Cooper’s and sharp-shinned hawks by their dark slate grey coloring, dark head with white eye stripe, and their yellow to amber eyes. You can also look for piles of feathers on the forest floor and you may be under a plucking perch.
They range primarily in western North America, where they nest in tall mature and old-growth trees. They prefer areas with fairly closed canopy where the shade helps to keep the undergrowth at a minimal. These older trees have branch formations not found in younger trees that are suited for their nests. Being stealthy forest predators, they perch on high trees, attacking with incredibly agile flight. They glide between slow wingbeats, tucking and gracefully maneuvering through trees. It is worth watching some slow-motion videos. Goshawks are adept predators and use their agility to catch songbirds in flight, squirrels directly off the branch, or snowshoe hare on the ground. They will even go after much larger prey, including pileated woodpeckers and forest grouse.
Goshawks put a lot of energy into nest building and frequently will repair or shore up the same nest season after season.
Females will work for hours each morning gathering or breaking off sticks, and they will continue to re-line the bowl of the nest with leaves throughout nesting. These nests can span up to four feet wide and two feet high. If you have a keen eye, particularly in winter, you can spot them in the forest canopy.
But goshawks are not to be trifled with. For one, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife classifies these birds as a species of concern, meaning the “species require protective measures for their survival.” The primary causes of the low numbers of goshawks are lack of prey and dwindling habitat due to intensive logging practices that are changing the forest structure. The other reason to be wary is that you’d need to wear a helmet and back protection if you approach an active nest. I am thankful I had at least a hat and pack the first time I found a nest. These birds do not fear divebombing, you, talons-first, in order to protect their nests.
That first summer, our field crew walked for hours every day on a proposed logging project, stopping every half mile to play a CD of a goshawk call, waiting for a reply. Although we did see some goshawks out of that project area, we only got responses from inquisitive mimicking grey jays and larger territorial red-tailed hawks.
Thinking back, I wonder what was so intriguing about this forest tucked in the northeast corner of Washington—the prospect of hot summer field work (I can’t remember it ever raining) or even the opportunity to see this elusive forest hunter—that I packed up my little two-wheel drive truck with a mountain bike and all my climbing gear and left Rhode Island, taking the first of what would be many cross-country roads trips. After all this time, I still crave a long field day in the woods. Just a few weeks ago, I was back on the Colville, once again calling for that elusive goshawk.
Adam is eagerly awaiting his next goshawk encounter while trail running or working in the Colville National Forest. Between some fun on the forest and water, he will be conducting stream habitat surveys and trying to get humans to coexist amicably with beavers.
GEAR ROOM
This update to MSR’s backcountry cookware products is the ideal minimalist backpacking or bikepacking set that adds thoughtful updates while remaining ultralight. The Titan Double Wall Mug (MSRP: $49.95) features a double-wall design that holds the heat in beverages without adding extra weight. The plastic sipping lid lets you take your time enjoying every hot drop. The new Titan Long Spoon is light and durable and gives you added reach to dig deep in those dehydrated meal pouches with-
out soiling your knuckles (MSRP $17.95). The updated Titan Kettles come in 900ml. (MSRP: $64.95) and 1400ml. (MSRP: $69.95) sizes with a few new features while remaining true to ultralight roots. The kettles have an improved spout for easy pouring and new, folding, silicone-coated handles. The lid has also been improved for a snugger fit, and the lid knob is easier to use. Internal graduation marks make measuring water super convenient. Msrgear.com (Wil Wheaton)
The new Agility Peak 5 does it all. Built for rugged trails with non-waterproof and and GORE-TEX options, an abrasion-resistant toe cap, and Vibram lugs that grip wet and dry surfaces, this shoe doesn’t sacrifice on comfort or style. With a modern, urban
look and plenty of cushion, the Agility Peak 5 shoes deliver exceptional stability on Riverside State Parks’ rockiest trails and lollygagging urban run club runs.
MSRP: $140. Merrell.com/US (Wil Wheaton)
The beauty of these wine and spirits flask and tumbler sets is the integration of quality-built drinking implements with a highvolume, insulated stainless steel flask that’s completely plastic free. The discreet, attractive design has integrated magnets that hold the two included tumblers in place, one on each end of the flask. An all-around excellent adult beverage solution for land and water adventures. The Parkside Flask 750-ml. 3-piece wine set has insulated walls that keep up to a full bottle of wine at temperature for 24 hours, which means
you can leave the glass bottle at home. The electropolished interior ensures your wine will retain its flavor (MSRP: $125). The Firelight Flask is an all-in-one three-piece bar set with a 750-ml. capacity. The insulated flask will keep your spirits cold or at room temperature for hours, and the large-volume tumblers allow for creative cocktail creations. A grippy cap, wide mouth, and dripfree pouring are welcome utilitarian features (MSRP: $129). Highcampflasks.com (Derrick Knowles)
The packaging on these soft, snug-fitting socks boasts of being the best socks you will ever wear. Time will tell, as I’ve only worn them out on a few trail runs and hikes, but these initial testing forays lean positive. The comfortable feel stems from the merino wool they’re made of, which
comes with its natural wicking and cooling power. The addition of grippy fibers on the heel and toe of the sock are intended to provide added support inside your shoes while out on the uneven terrain.
MSRP: $23.99-$26.99. Swiftwick.com (Wil Wheaton)
This re-vamped version of the TrailMix hydration pack sheds 15% off the weight of the original and includes additional storage options. The roll-top opening on the large storage compartment works like a dry-bag, keeping clothing and other gear dry. It compresses out of the way when empty, and there are two large storage pockets on each of the pack shoulder straps for easy
access to calories along the trail. An outer mesh pocket is the perfect place to stow wet items, and it includes a crisscrossed bungee cord for even more storage potential. The pack comes with a 1.5-liter hydration bladder that fits in its own internal pocket. Trekking pole storage can also be found on either side.
MSRP: $150. Nathansports. com (Wil Wheaton)
After years of exclusively wearing minimalist, zero-drop trail shoes, I’ve noticed the added cushioning of the Peregrines have contributed to less foot and arch soreness and fatigue on longer hikes and even short trail runs on chunky, rock-littered trails. The tread
traction is also super aggressive, meaning fewer slips on steep or loose trail surfaces. I’m looking forward to swapping out my old hiking boots with the lighter, more breathable Peregrine 14 trail shoes on many more miles of trails this summer.
MSRP: $140. Saucony.com (Derrick Knowles)
This collapsible, 18.6-oz. cook kit is a complete, five-piece backcountry cooking set for up to two people. The 2.2liter pot with a lid, two medium bowls and two cups are constructed with alternating rings of foodgrade silicone and anodized aluminum, allowing them to collapse and nest into each other,
taking up little space in your pack or paniers. The cups and bowls come in two colors, so you’ll always know which one is yours, and the pot’s burly, removable metal handle won’t detach or buckle when lifting a full pot on or off a stove. MSRP: $179.95. Seatosummit.com (Wil Wheaton)
It was a chilly late spring night when I first crawled into the Basecamp down bag, exhausted from a long day working outside, and it was like falling into a warm, cozy cloud. I’ve never had such a dramatic first impression of a sleeping bag. If you are looking for a sleeping bag for tent, car, or RV camping that is supremely comfortable that doesn’t skimp on features, the Basecamp is your bag. The 650-fill down
will keep you toasty down to 15F, and it is so spacious, in part due to the semi-rectangular shape, that you can sprawl out. The plush hood engulfed my noggin and fits most home pillows. Full-length zippers on both sides and one spanning the foot box allow for ample venting possibilities, and straps across the bottom of the bag keep your sleeping
pad in place. MSRP: $399. Seatosummit. com (Derrick Knowles)
Camp furniture can take up a ton of limited space in your car, camper, or RV, which is what makes Oru’s versatile table and lounges so appealing. Better known for their foldable and collapsible kayaks, Oru’s camp furniture features “living hinges,” a design concept borrowed from origami that distributes weight, creating strong, flat-packing furniture for any outdoor adventure. The Switch Table is two tables in one, converting from a dining or food
prep surface into a coffee table, with two hidden storage compartments that can hold ice or other kitchen items. The 11.5-pound table sets up in minutes and can hold up to 200 pounds (MSRP: $229). The Pop Lounge is a comfortable, ergonomic lounge chair that can support up to 300 pounds and has hidden storage under the seat. The double-walled construction is super durable yet weighs just over seven pounds (MSRP: $189). Orukayak. com (Derrick Knowles)
Editor’s Note: Unless otherwise stated, product for these reviews was provided by the brand at no cost to the reviewer. Out There strives to only review quality gear and provide honest, thoughtful, and entertaining gear reviews, but readers should always do their own research.
The Benefits of Float Therapy
By Alana Livingston
I REMEMBER PASSING by a sign near Northtown Mall a few years ago that simply said “Float.” At the time, I didn’t pay much attention to it. But recently, while waiting for my massage therapist at Elements Massage in Wandermere, I noticed a video in the lobby promoting float therapy. The serene images of individuals casually floating in pods and the listed benefits of floating intrigued me, prompting me to make my own appointment.
Upon arrival, the manager, Zach, explained the process in detail before leaving me to begin my session. I was given the choice for music if desired and led to a private room containing a shower and the float pod. With the water set to body temperature and enriched with 1,100 pounds of Epsom salt, achieving buoyancy was effortless.
As I settled into the pod, I found it spacious and far from claustrophobic. The floating ring provided optional neck support, but I soon discovered it wasn’t necessary as I experienced complete weightlessness. The warm, dewy air inside the pod somewhat resembled that of a sauna, comforting and light on my breath.
Following Zach’s advice, I surrendered to the “weirdness” of the experience, floating from end to end experiencing the sensation of zero gravity. I couldn’t get the image of astronauts in space out of my mind. I turned off the light and I closed my eyes, focusing on my breath and settling into something that reminded me of Darth Vader meditating. Despite my initial skepticism about the hour-long session, I soon found myself immersed in a state of deep relaxation and, shockingly, fell asleep.
35 West Main Monday-Saturday / 10 am to 5:30 pm Closed Sunday
The physical benefits of the float were immediate and profound. My body felt lighter, and the usual ache in my lower back was noticeably absent. It was as if years of compression on my spine had been released and, dare I say, was I taller?
Beyond the physical benefits, float therapy offers a rare opportunity to disconnect from the outside world and experience total sensory deprivation. In today’s society, where stimuli are constant and unavoidable, this positive isolation provides an environment of total freedom and true rest for your whole being.
The magnesium-rich Epsom salt used in the float pod has long been known for its many therapeutic properties, including better muscle and nerve function, eliminating toxins, pain relief, improved sleep and more. My own experience can affirm these benefits in addition to overall well-being.
Float Therapy has the potential to benefit everyone, regardless of the circumstances that bring them. Whether seeking relief from anxiety, recovering from surgery, or simply in need of a moment of tranquility, the benefits are undeniable and highly recommended.
Currently, the Elements Massage Studio located in Wandermere is the only establishment in Spokane offering Float Therapy. Their offerings also include several different options of massage, cupping, herbal and aroma rituals.
Alana is the owner of Wander Spokane guided tours and is looking forward to a funfilled Summer showing off her favorite things about Spokane.
Off-Leash Dogs on the Trail
In many outdoor spaces, leashes are the law, but some people still ignore it
By Shallan Knowles SOAPBOX
LOU AND MARY Haymond were walking on a trail in the Plese Flats area at Riverside State Park when an off-leash dog charged them from more than 150 feet away. Lou moved in front of Mary as it snarled and lunged at them, but the border collie ran around Lou and bit Mary’s leg. They did all the right things—avoiding eye contact and not running, but it didn’t matter. The dog drew blood and the puncture wounds were deep. At the emergency room, the decision was made not to stich the wound tightly due to the potential for infection. After the attack, the owner leashed the dog, apologized profusely and offered to pay medical bills. But the damage was done.
Dog attacks like this one often inspire a renewed focus on the topic of leashing your dog on public trails. While it’s the law in several areas, the rules in other public spaces are murkier. With more pups hitting the trails post-COVID, it is in everyone’s best interest to help create safe, positive interactions on the trail. It starts with knowing the rules and comes down to respecting others in the outdoors community.
DON’T WORRY! MY DOG IS FRIENDLY!
It’s one of the most common things you hear from an owner when you see an offleash dog running up to you on the trail. After mentioning this article to my friends, every single person had an off-leash dog story. Some dogs are truly friendly, but that doesn’t account for how the person or animal being approached will react, especially if they have a reactive dog who is on a leash. One “friendly dog” was so excited to see a fellow trail runner, the dog knocked my friend on her backside after jumping up to greet her. Even friendly can go too far.
We walk our dog, Fernie, with a gentle lead, which is a leash that includes fabric
straps that go up over a dog’s snout. One reason is because Fernie is strong and has not an ounce of control when she sees wildlife. She will hurt herself trying to get to a rodent, which is to be expected—she’s part rat terrier. The other reason is due to her infrequent, but intense, reaction to other dogs.
More often than we would like while out walking Fernie, another dog will run up to her with the owner waving their hands and yelling from a distance that we shouldn’t worry, their dog is friendly. Which is great for them, but not for our dog. It’s intense trying to hold her back and keep the other dog at a distance. If we fail, Fernie will happily remove a chunk of the approaching dog’s ear or nearest body part.
Fernie’s reaction is even stronger if she’s on a leash, which she always is out in public. We could put a muzzle on her. But if the approaching friendly dog were on a leash or under voice control, it wouldn’t matter: there would be time to say, “that’s nice, but my dog is not friendly!” The off-leash-dog owner takes away that possibility and puts their own pup at risk.
Lou was quick to point out that all dogs bite. Some are easily provoked, as he and Mary found out the hard way. Other dogs can take more to provoke, but they all have the potential to cause harm. Your friendly dog might be friendly with other friendly dogs. Maybe at the dog park your dog does the play bow and off they go running with glee. But how does your friendly dog react to dogs who are not so fun?
Dog behavior is complex, and unlike children, we cannot have a sit-down talk to discuss their feelings. If Fifi is friendly and my dog wants to attack, Fifi might run away or might be ready for a fight. I’m sure neither of us wants to find out. Make sure Fifi is on a leash-y and avoid potential problems.
Not all negative interactions with off-leash dogs involve altercations. While chatting with a backcountry hiker about this issue, she told a story about an off-leash dog that came into their lunch circle on a hike and proceeded to sample picnic items. The owner didn’t seem to mind, but the hikers who had their lunches pilfered by a stranger’s dog sure did. Rules in more remote areas might allow for off leash-dogs, but if your dog is prone to munching food from fellow wanderers, some form of restraint would be appreciated.
DOGS IN NATURAL AREAS
Another common thing you hear from dog owners is that they only let their hound off leash in natural areas away from lots of people. However, in parks designated as a natural-area or other wetlands-type areas that allow dogs, it’s even more important to keep them on leash. Areas that nurture nature are home to sensitive wildlife and plants. Dogs tromping around unattended or chasing birds and other animals is probably fun for the pooch, but is detrimental
to wildlife and their habitat. Look at the dog laws before you go. Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge discourages visitors from bringing their pets, although dogs are allowed on leash. The Little Spokane and the Ragged Ridge natural areas, on the other hand, do not allow dogs (that includes paddleboard pups too). Riverside State Park staff encourages people to call park offices for clarification (Riverside State Park 509-465-5064 or Mount Spokane State Park 509-238-4258).
LEASH LAWS AT WASHINGTON STATE PARKS
Riverside State Park is regularly patrolled by rangers, and one of the biggest offenses is off-leash dogs. According to park spokesman Rex Schultz, dog related violations are at the discretion of the ranger that encounters the owner with an off-leash dog. More often than not, the ranger will give an Educational Contract, or warning, to the offender. If these contracts were tracked like they track citations, they would number in the hundreds each year. When rangers give a citation, it costs the owner of the off-leash dog $99. Forty citations were given in 2023, and 2024 is on track to beat that number.
Repeat offenders face stiffer penalties. “Any violation, or refusal to leash a dog after contact can result in a 48-hour expulsion,” reports Schultz. “Repeated occurrences could upgrade to a 30-day expulsion, and in rare occurrences, up to a 1-year expulsion.” Don’t get kicked out of the park. Bring your Discover Pass and your dog’s leash and use it.
LEASH LAWS IN IDAHO
Some people I spoke with erroneously believed that freedom-loving Idaho was a haven for off-leash pets. Yet, according to the City of Coeur d’Alene, dogs are not
allowed off leash at many areas where offleash dog infractions are common, including the Canfield Mountain hiking and biking trails. Idaho State Parks also requires dogs to be on leash, including at popular parks like Farragut and the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.
RECALL VS. LEASH
One of my friends often encounters the same dog on a trail, glued to its owner’s side. I imagine this is what they mean by absolute voice command. While this may keep their highly-disciplined dog from infringing on other peoples’ enjoyment of public lands, if leashes are required, it’s still illegal. More common are the frequent dog walkers with much-less-than-perfect voice command over their best friend who somehow think they have earned the right to leave the leash at home. Even with the best training, unless you can guarantee your dog won’t wander more than eight feet from you and will leave all people, animals and other dogs alone, it’s not considered recall and it doesn’t take the place of a leash.
WHY PEOPLE IGNORE THE LEASH LAWS
Dogs are family, for most of us. We want the best for our pups, and this often means letting them free to smell the smells and chase the balls. Most dogs are relatively well-behaved, and will eventually come back to those who feed them without causing much or any harm. But it’s up to us as dog owners to either find a place that’s safe and legal to let them go wild, or leash them up to protect other park users.
WHY YOU SHOULD CARE
Another story I heard while researching for this article was of a woman who was out for a run when she encountered a German Shepard with a woman and her kids, who the owner later stated had “never hurt a soul.” But this time, the dog couldn’t decipher if the runner was rushing at the chil-
dren he was set on protecting or just out for a jog. He attacked and drew blood, to the surprise of the owner. Do you want to be liable if your friendly dog attacks someone randomly for the first time?
If you are one of the many people who insist on having your dog off-leash, I imagine it’s for the right reasons. They recall fairly well, they like to run, and who wants to be attached to a rope? I get it, but here’s why I deeply believe your off-leash dog only belongs in more remote areas where it’s legal—we live in a community.
As users of public areas, it is not our individual space. If you go to a dog park, you can expect a dog to run up and greet you unannounced. Our busy trails should not be the same. By keeping our dogs on leash, we can respect our fellow humans and protect our animals. We can keep the startled dog from chasing the runner and sending her to the hospital.
We each have the responsibility to avoid causing harm to others in our public spaces. It’s not about the ticket, or eventually getting kicked out of a park because of our choices; It’s about being civil to each other.
THE DOG OWNER’S MINDSET
Washington State Parks ranger Paul Neddo reports that off-leash dogs is the top issue for park rangers, with park users complaining about this issue more than any other. When asked about the most frustrating part of dealing with off-leash dogs, Neddo was quick to respond. “It’s the self-centered mindset,” he says, going on to explain how offenders typically fall into three categories: 1. Prompted compliance, or those who quickly leash their dog when they see a ranger. 2. The people who rationalize their law breaking, claiming their dog is well trained and doesn’t chase. 3. Those who are offended by the “silly rule” and think they don’t need to. He encourages all three groups to think about the repercussions beyond what the dog owner might see.
For example, the Deep Creek area at Riverside State Park, which is frequented by climbers, was also the hunting grounds of a cougar in 2017. Some of the climbers had off-leash dogs that would roam the canyon while they climbed, and a few smaller dogs went missing. Neddo speculates that the cat had a tasty pup treat or two, and subsequently, this new food source broke down its fear of humans. Eventually the cougar was killed as it had grown too comfortable in an area that is heavily used by climbers, hikers, and mountain bikers.
Ranger Neddo encourages people to think beyond self interest and ask themselves, “Why should I be the exception to the rule?” If you choose to go to a public place with a leash law, he suggests that you respect fellow users, wildlife, and the rules. He also noted the entitlement of some off leash dog owners and the conflict in our society between individuality and responsibility when it comes to issues like this. While flaunting the law may feel like an individual choice, it is in fact putting the safety and enjoyment of others at risk and is a form of entitlement.
WHAT CAN WE DO?
If a desire to be respectful of fellow users of parks and natural areas isn’t enough to motivate owners to leash their dogs, how do the rest of us respond? Some people claim to have mace or dog spray at the ready. Others keep treats on hand and will throw said treats to distract dogs. Some have suggested a milder spray such as citronella, as it doesn’t do lasting harm but is an effective deterrent. Shouting and carrying a big stick doesn’t always do the job.
Mary Haymond’s bite wounds are slowly filling in after three years of healing, but still look terrible. She still tenses up around dogs, even on a leash, and it’s not uncommon to see off-leash dogs when she and her husband go on a walk. They carry pepper spray now and warn owners of off leash dogs that they have it.
After the incident with the border collie, SCRAPS interviewed the dog owner. They learned this was not the first bite incident the dog has had. The owner reported letting the dog off leash because their yard is small and the dog has tons of energy. SCRAPS encouraged Lou and Mary to sue the owner, but they didn’t have the heart. Lou felt that the owner was remorseful and SCRAPS required him to now keep the dog fenced, install signs on said fence, and they require insurance that costs upwards of $400 per year per animal. The owner couldn’t afford it and returned the dog to the farm where he came from.
The disregard for others displayed by this offending dog owner, and all other off-leash owners, leaves a lasting impact on those they encounter. It’s time to be better community members and responsible citizens and keep all dogs on-leash, no matter how well behaved they are, to maintain safe trails and parks.
Shallan Knowles works as a graphic designer and mediator in Spokane and keeps her crazy dog on a short leash. She and her spouse publish Out There Outdoors and love to take their 9-year-old mountain biking at Riverside.
SO WHERE’S A DOG TO RUN?
Other than your backyard, dogs are encouraged to be off-leash at designated dog park areas. There are several dog parks in Spokane, like High Bridge Dog Park and Riverside Dog Park. (See Spokanecity.org/ parks/dogs for more.) Atlas Mill Park along the Spokane River in Coeur d’Alene has a beautiful off-leash beach dog park where they can swim. But other than that, where can one take a pup to really get the energy out? Here are a few places where well-behaved dogs under voice control can run free.
INLAND EMPIRE PAPER LAND (IEP): IEP has private property that is open for recreational use in Idaho and Washington. There is a gate host at entry points which include land near Twin Lakes, Spirit Lake, Mount Spokane, Thompson Creek, and Bozard Creek-Mica. More info at Iepco.com/forestry/rec-use.
UNITED STATES FOREST SERVICE LANDS: On Forest Service trails, dogs are allowed off leash as long as they are “under voice control.” They must also be leashed around packers, horses and stock animals. The nearest areas are in the Idaho Panhandle National Forest and Colville National Forest. Some trails with high usage might be marked individually for on-leash only. Owners of off-leash dogs should take special precautions on Forest Service lands where both legal and illegal traps set for wolves and other wildlife can and do also trap, hurt and kill people’s dogs.
WASHINGTON DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND WILDLIFE LANDS: WDFW lands allow off-leash dogs from August through March, as long as you are more than 500 feet from designated access sites or a designated campground. Rustler’s Gulch Wildlife Area, about 30 miles north of Spokane, has an extensive network of old roads that are now used as trails where dogs and their owners are free to roam untethered.
2024 Newport Autumn Bloom
Learning to Love the Fly
By Sam Lavigne FISHING
PEOPLE ASK ME why I like to fly fish. What is it about fly fishing that draws me to cold rivers at times of the day when most folks are still sleeping? I have a hard time putting it into words, but what I do know is that the more time I spend fishing, the more I want to do it.
Both of my grandfathers were fisherman, as is my father. I think that my grandfathers fished from a place of sustenance. That’s not to say that they didn’t enjoy it, but the motivation for food that had originally created the activity was at the helm.
My father is more of a recreationist. He has recently come around to fly fishing, but he used to fish exclusively with lures. He always said that he didn’t like fly fishing because he had to use both hands to do it, which meant that he didn’t have a free hand to hold a drink. I think it had more to do with a lack of instruction than anything else.
I grew up just outside of Denver in a town that was an hour drive from anything that looked even remotely fishy. It was an urban, no-pulp-in-the-orange-juice, manicured bubble in a state that touts some of the best fly waters in the West.
Even given my dad’s affinity for fishing, we hardly ever wet a line in Colorado. We spent the majority of our summers in the northern part of Idaho on a piece of riverbank that had been handed down over the course of a generation or two. This water was (still is) “our spot,” and it is where my love for fishing was conceived, incubated and molded into an obsession.
It wasn’t until I got into high school that I really began to learn to fly fish. There were several people in my family who enjoyed the idea of fly fishing (and even had some experience), but the lack of eager mentors left me holding a Zebco and a Fighting Fish—not that there is anything wrong with that. To be clear, I consider myself an angler, plain and simple. I don’t discriminate against the method. But, for some reason, the characteristics of fly fishing continue to tug at my heart. There is certain amount of romanticism that goes along with fly fishing that I didn’t understand when I first started. It’s a game of patience and efficiency rather than feckless fin chasing.
My early education consisted of two men (my grandfather and my uncle) standing on the bank shouting at me to keep my tip up. I was in my mid-teens and too impatient to understand the nuance involved. I knew less about fly fishing than I did about women, and my attention to detail was halfhearted
at best.
So fly fishing didn’t consume me immediately like it does some anglers. It took me a while to develop a rapport with the activity that can oftentimes be a love-hate relationship. People spend years trying to hone the craft, but it only takes one bad outing to bring you back to reality. Sometimes the fish are biting and sometimes they aren’t. It doesn’t matter how good a fly fisherman you are—we all have days where we get skunked. I think that is part of what drives me back to the tailwaters and freestones of the Pacific Northwest.
Fly fishing still has a stranglehold on me today. Things have changed some as I have since moved closer to that revered piece of riverbank, got married, bought a house and grown the flock. But fly fishing itself remains the same. You are still just, as flyfishing author John Geirach says, standing in a river waiving a stick.
Fisherman and author Gary LaFontaine said, “I fish because of beauty . . . and in our contentious time of partisan hubris, selfishness and outright mendacity, Beauty itself may prove the most endangered thing of all.” I don’t consider myself to be that poetic. I think the point is, that for some people, fly fishing is something that engulfs us and alters the way we view the world and the role we play in it.
In all honesty, fly fishing is something that changed the way I live my life. It forced me to understand patience, attention to detail, the beauty of nature and the solace of a quiet trout stream. It has brought me closer to my family, and it has allowed me to spend time with the people I love. It has helped me realize that no matter how fragmented and chaotic your life gets, you can always find reprieve in a cold river. I know this is true, because on days that I don’t catch fish I am still surrounded by an atmosphere of something much larger than myself that makes me feel amazingly small.
Why the fly? Because the characteristics of being a good fly fisherman are often synonymous with those of being a good person. Frustration is almost always certain, the payoff can be tremendous, and the space in between makes you happy to be alive. Fish on.
Sam Lavigne lives in Idaho’s Silver Valley and spends his free time hunting and fly fishing with his wife and three kids. His enthusiasm for family, food and fishing drives his writing and adventures.
The Curve of Time Lessons from a Classic Adventure Parenting Memoir
By Olivia Dugenet
“Caprice” was a 25-foot boat with a cockpit, engine room and just enough space to sleep Muriel Wylie Blanchet and her five children. They spent entire summers on “Caprice” back in the 1920s and ‘30s, exploring the waters and wild shores of British Columbia. Blanchet’s book “The Curve of Time” has become a classic adventure/travel memoir. A widow and independent woman exploring the wild world alone with five children in the early part of the century—this took a sort of subversiveness that shines in her writing. She was both stern and playful, adventuring like a wild young spirit herself while also taking up the role of serious leader and parent. Her stories show how she simultaneously learned
from and taught her children how to understand the world.
These five core outdoor parenting ideas embedded within the book offer valuable insights:
1. Everyone contributes. Even young children had real responsibilities, and life on “Caprice” depended on everyone pitching in. While older kids were reading charts, watching the compass and scanning for reefs, the youngest boy was given a whistle to blow in the heavy fog—sounding for echoes and helping steer clear of cliffs.
2. Courage coexists alongside vulnerability. They didn’t seek out adventure or aim to conquer anything, and they intentionally practiced what the explorers of old called “exercising due care.” Still, adventure found them. They encountered bears and cougars, near falls, near crashes, extreme cold and dangerous rapids. After one particularly challenging moment, one of the older children said, “You were scared, too, weren’t you, mummy?” Neither denying her fear nor giving in to it, Blanchet winked at him. “Weren’t we sillies!” she said.
3. Everyone plays. Blanchet took youthful delight in having fun. She rocketed down slippery granite slides with her kids and splashed into crystal lukewarm pools—this is how they took baths and washed their clothes.
4. Curiosity is a virtue. For Blanchet and her children, the world was a fascinating place full of mystery and discovery. The group regularly paused, pivoted, or changed plans to follow the thread of someone’s curiosity. When they found some strange new wonder, they explored it, wrote about it in their journals, and looked it up in the Encyclopedia Brittanica when they returned home in the fall.
5. Community is important. On their travels, Blanchet and her children met people from all backgrounds and perspectives, built lasting friendships, learned to ask for help when necessary, and gave help whenever they could.
6. Ponder big ideas. book’s title, Blanchet studied theories about time and other complex ideas. She continually sought wisdom and under
standing, bringing depth and beauty to her life and writing.
These ideas are woven through my own experience of parenting in the outdoors. I let the kids make and break camp in the backcountry, even when they pitch the tents a little crooked or don’t pack up precisely the way I showed them. If they take their inflatable sleeping pads into an alpine lake, I am more likely to join them for a float than to scold. So long as the kids show they’re practicing required safety strategies, I let them get out ahead of me and lead, even when it makes me nervous. We talk about how being outdoors away from devices changes our experience of time and being in the world, and we carry those conversations back to the city and into our everyday lives. Blanchet’s stories showed me, years before I even became a mom, how time spent together outside fosters wisdom and strong connections between children, their parents, and the wider world.
Olivia Dugenet is a Spokane writer and mom who has learned a lot from exploring the outdoors with her children. She and her teenagers are excited to backpack routes in Washington
Borrow a Discover
HORSEBACK RIDING
Horseback Riding in Spokane’s Riverside State Park
A first-timer’s guided summer ride along the river
By Tabitha Gregory
ON A HOT JULY SATURDAY, I found myself atop a horse named Serenity, swaying down a broad trail in Spokane’s Riverside State Park. The breeze rustled the ponderosa limbs above, blew up a dusty wake, and charmingly mussed Serenity’s jet-black forelock and mane. Sitting high above the ground on a big animal like this put me way outside my comfort zone.
Over the years, I’ve been minimally exposed to the horse life. As a kid, I occasionally rode with my dad on his parents’ quarter horses. Later, as an adult, I encountered horse packers and trail riders on mountain routes while hiking in wilderness areas and national forests. These brushes with the equestrian led me to appreciate the role of horses in the West and their place in the landscape. Now, as a resident of the Inland Northwest, where ranching and rodeos coexist with backpacking and mountain biking, I thought it appropriate to try out a local ride and experience a familiar park from topside.
I talked my sister, Saree, into joining me for this two-hour outing with Pacific Trail Rides. We met our guide at the equestrian area in Riverside State Park off Government Way on the west side of the Spokane River. Here, there’s a large multi-pen log-fenced corral, a neat barn, restrooms, and a huge parking lot.
We met our guide, a sixteen-year-old nicknamed “Q.” Even in her youth, she appeared the seasoned horsewoman—roughed up jeans, dust-covered kickers, leather belt with a big silver buckle, tanned, and sporting a thick braid that hung down her back.
Saree and I checked out the horses. They all appeared calm and dismissive. One stuck his head through the log slats and nipped at dry blades of grass; another shook her mane, clinking the harness’s bit and hardware in a cowboy sort of way.
Q assigned us horses, taking into consideration our stated tolerance for “feistiness.” Saree was paired with Bailey, known as a biter and for taking pleasure in brushing her passenger’s legs against trees. I claimed Serenity.
I pushed my toe into the stirrup, grabbed the saddle horn and cantle, and swung my
leg over Serenity’s back. Immediately I felt unsettled, teetering far above the ground on a living being with a mind of its own and the heft to resist any instruction I might give.
Our group set out in single file along a double track, which eventually narrowed to single track, passing through open Ponderosa forest. For the first half hour, I watched every step Serenity took and pulled tersely on the reins when she approached the horse ahead too closely.
Riding a horse is not entirely smooth. A horse must pick its way through rocks, stumps, and fallen trees, shifting its gait unexpectedly, stumbling at times, trotting and slowing as it ascends or descends. Each horse has its own personality, as well. Serenity did not especially like following other horses—the swishing tail of the leading animal seemed to annoy her—so she slyly worked her way to the front. I waved at my fellow trail riders as I passed, “Sorry, I guess we’re taking the lead.”
At last, I settled into the saddle, and while I was still not as relaxed as the confident Q,
I began to enjoy the feeling of gently urging Serenity on and allowing her to fully engage with the trail, picking her way through obstacles.
We moseyed alongside the river’s edge at Bowl and Pitcher, plodded under basalt cliffs and scree, and ascended low hills. It was quiet and the air smelled of pitch. We encountered two hikers and saw no wildlife. A little over halfway, our group stopped for water and to enjoy the scenery.
After a languid two hours, we sauntered up to the barn, dismounted, and shook dust off our shoes. Saree and I congratulated one another for a successful outing, stroked our horses’ noses, and offered a nod to the equine heritage of the West.
Tabitha enjoys exploring, hiking, and skiing in the Inland Northwest. She writes for Out There Outdoors and North Columbia Monthly and is the author of the historical non-fiction book “Valdez Rises: One Town’s Struggle for Survival After the Great Alaska Earthquake”.
NO MATTER YOUR HORSE-RIDING APTITUDE, YOU CAN GAIN A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE AND EXPERIENCE A RIDE ON THE TRAIL WITH ONE OF THESE LOCAL GUIDE COMPANIES
PACIFIC TRAIL RIDES
pnwguidedtrailrides.com
$150 for a 2-hour ride; Discover Pass required for day-use parking.
SPOKANE TRAIL RIDE AND BOARDING spokanetrailrides.com
Lodging, camping, rides, weddings.
RED MOUNTAIN HORSE RANCH redhorsemountainranch.com
Dude ranch with family and kids programs, restaurant, and lodging near Harrison, Idaho.
MOUNTAIN HORSE ADVENTURES schweitzer.com/to-do/horseback-riding
2.5-hour rides from Schweitzer Village via the cross-country ski trails. (Tabitha Gregory)
FLASHBACK
Following the Footsteps of David Thompson to Howse Pass
By Mark Longmeier
OUR TREK TO HOWSE PASS in Banff National Park was born from a Spokane Community College senior-oriented ACT-2 seminar course. Inspired by David Thompson’s life, who was one of the greatest explorers and cartographers for the Canadian Prairies and the Inland Northwest, several class members shared an ambition to retrace Thompson’s crossing of the continental divide. Five of us, ages 64 to 79, planned a four-day backcountry trip in September of 2023 to do just that, enlisting a guide who would give us insight during the trek.
First, a bit about Thompson. Apprenticed to the Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC), David Thompson landed at the York factory on the Hudson Bay as a fourteen-year-old
clerk in 1784. He rose through the fur trade business ranks, establishing trading houses on rivers throughout the Canadian prairie and applying his cartography skills by mapping the region. By 1801, Thompson was poised to cross the Rocky Mountains. After several failed attempts, the natives pointed him to an ancient trail over the Rockies. In 1807, he set out to Howse Pass from Rocky Mountain House following the Saskatchewan River to gain entry to the Inland Northwest area drained by the Columbia River.
Rivers were the highways in Thompson’s era. Our highway was the Ice Field Parkway in Banff National Park, with the jumping off point to Howse Pass just south of The Saskatchewan River Crossing at Mistaya Canyon. We engaged a horse pack outfitter as our backcountry guide. The original Thompson trail has been neglected and quickly became a downfall-clogged path, forcing diversion to the adjacent braided Howse River flood plain. The route wound through a pristine wilderness, flanked by snow-dusted peaks. We established camp at the source of Howse River prior to ascending to Howse Pass.
Wanting to immerse ourselves into Thompson’s culture, we asked Shaun Deller (shaundeller.com), to serve as our fur trade era cultural guide. Shaun has an extensive background in the era history as well as myriad practical skills common to the traders. He is a period artisan. He has participated in numerous mountain man reenactments and provided consultation for fur trade era documentaries. In 2022, he completed fur trade era interpretative murals on the Spokane House visitor center.
While our group utilized Gore-Tex, polyester, and down, Shaun was outfitted in woolens and buckskin, with a buffalo hide for sleeping. He demonstrated the everyday skills of a fur trapper. Campfire discussions ensued to enlighten the transport of trade goods and furs between Fort William on Lake Superior and the Inland Northwest trading houses.
By 1810, Thompson had established four trading houses: Kootanae House, near Invermere, BC; Kullyspell House on Lake Pend Oreille; Salish House near Thompson Falls, Montana; and Spokane House on the Little Spokane River. Subsequent economics resulted in the closure of three houses, with only the Spokane House remaining active until 1826 when the HBC moved trade to Fort Colville near Kettle Falls as part of the
Columbia River trade network linked to Fort Vancouver. Archeological remnants remain only for the Spokane and Kootanae Houses. Our group’s adventure through Banff with a cultural guide provided a visual and environmental immersion that furthered our admiration for the Thompson-era outdoors explorers. The Inland Northwest has seen over 200 years of European exploration, but Indigenous people had inhabited and traveled the area for thousands of years prior to European presence. Awareness of this history provides perspective and generational knowledge, which will enhance the current day explorer’s experience.
Four days in the backcountry and a 40-mile round trip on horseback begged the question, who signed us up for this? Discretion became the better part of valor for a day of rest around the campfire to spin yarns. En route, visits to Rocky Mountain House, the Kootenae House site, and Canal Flats, which Thompson traversed from the Columbia River headwaters to the Kootenai River, were a highlight and amplified our understanding of Thompsons’ travels.
Mark Longmeier has been a resident of Spokane for the last 48 years. Educated in engineering sciences and business administration, his secondary interest has been history.
Backcountry Hiking Fernie, B.C.
BY JAMES P. JOHNSON
I NOTICED FERNIE on a map while road-tripping through southeastern British Columbia more than a decade ago. I decided to head that way and become more Fernie-aware.
About a half-dozen visits later, my Fernie-awareness has really increased. Hiking is my favorite activity. Whatever yours, chances are good you’ll find matches on the long list of things to do there.
An impressive attribute Fernie has got going is prettiness. The Rocky Mountain peaks surrounding town cause me to pause often to gaze. The same happens downtown among the century-old brick buildings. The rampant beauty causes my pre-hike, coffeeshop stop to turn into extended lingering. A stroll through downtown ensues. When I arrive at the trailhead, a late finish to my hike is likely.
Another attribute that earns Fernie gold stars are hikes starting in town or at the outskirts. For an ardent peripatetic as myself, leaving the car parked and walking to the trailhead is satisfying.
An October summit of Mt. Fernie, (7,251 ft./5 miles roundtrip), on the north side of town was my first hike here. A snow shower hit as I reached the upper slopes. Staying low against wind and blinding snow on the summit’s narrow ridge, I had no idea how long my plunge would be if I went over the edge. I hiked Mt. Fernie again on my next visit. The drop-off was a moderately steep slope. I was never in danger of falling.
Finding more adventure than expected became a theme on my Fernie hikes. At Island Lake, a resort with mountainous terrain open to hikers, I was attracted off trail to a rocky summit requiring steep scrambling. Nearing the top, it began to rain. Slick rock would mean big trouble. Abandoning my quest, I descended methodically and cautiously. I’ve never been so relieved getting off a rock face. My visits to Fernie are more than hiking up mountains. On a warm July day, I strolled through town with no purpose but to look at things. At a bike shop, a couple and their two elementary-age children looked excited as they took possession of rental bicycles. It brought a smile to me. I walked the paved trail that follows the Elk River from
one end of town to the other. There are lots of trails through and around Fernie, both gentle and the rugged, mountainous kind, and lots of people on bicycles using them. No one was fishing the Elk River for which it’s known; however, an intermittent procession of people on tubes and rafts floated past.
My walk ended at the the visitors’ centre, also the trailhead for 7,851-ft. Mt. Proctor, a 12-mile, loop hike with 4,600 feet of elevation gain. The centre guide questioned my late start. Acknowledging such, I resisted boasting that I’ve earned kudos for dealing with late starts.
The first time I hiked Three Sisters (9,147 ft.), I hohummed the descriptions’s suggestion to check out the cave. Forty-five minutes into the hike, I was flabbergasted. Bisaro Cave is huge and spectacular.
Three Sisters is a 13-mile roundtrip hike with 4,750 ft. of elevation gain. The access road is rough and a high-clearance vehicle is necessary for the last two kilometers. I parked at the lot for low-clearance cars, adding three miles to the total. Hiking it again last summer, I encountered newlymade camping spots for backpackers near the tree line and plenty of people using them.
Like other hikes, the Three Sisters came with bonus adventure. Passing through a stand of stunted trees at high elevation, a grouse stayed put despite my presence, something I’ve experienced numerous times. I snapped photos as he paced circuitously, getting closer. Then he rushed me. I jumped and hopped, trying to outmaneuver him. It turned into a scuffle. Twice I landed a solid kick. Creating a gap between us, I outran him, even as he continued chasing.
Despite all my visits to Fernie, there are summits and lowlands I’ve yet to explore. The beauty of the mountainous terrain and the pleasantness and offerings of the downtown business district makes for a satisfying road trip each time. It’s no mystery Fernie has become one of my preferred destinations. My adventures have created memorable moments. Defending myself from a hiker-hating spruce grouse is perhaps the most unique.
James P. Johnson is the author of “Spokane and Coeur d'Alene Freshwater Shark Attacks.” He wrote about his streak of witnessing total solar eclipses in the last issue of Out There.
Another attribute that earns Fernie gold stars are hikes starting in town or at the outskirts. For an ardent peripatetic as myself, leaving the car parked and walking to the trailhead is satisfying.
Even with map in hand, the network of trails caused a wrong turn. I backtracked, then took a longer than necessary route to access the Mt. Proctor Trail. Eventually I got into spectacular high country, and, hiking a long, rocky ridge, arrived at the summit. Two things captured my attention—the setting with many rugged peaks, and a picnic table just below the summit.
On my hike down, recent heavy rain had washed out a long section of trail. If it reappeared on the periphery, cutting away from the wash out, and I missed it, I’d be stranded in the woods for the night. I was pleased to spot it and arrive at the visitors’ centre at dusk.
Evenings in Fernie, I visit places I’ve strolled past earlier. I once felt truly Canadian ordering local beer at a pub and getting drawn into a curling competition on the TVs. After conversation with a couple from Medicine Hat at a Japanese restaurant, the server informed me the departed couple paid my check. A free meal is great. The downside—not being able to express appreciation.
Confessions of a First-Time Silver Mountain Rider
BY Derrick Knowles
SILVER MOUNTAIN Bike Park has been voted the #1 bike park in the Northwest for several years running for a reason. The mountain offers easy gondola and lift access to trails and terrain for everyone, from some of the more mellow trails in the Chair 3 Zone to full-mountain, 3,400-footvertical of descents down intermediate and expert level singletrack and machine-built trails and jump lines.
The wide range of trails offer plenty of options for first-time lift-served bike park riders, says Silver Mountain Bike Park patroller Ben King. “Our trail map has a great progression. Stick to Chair 3 at the top for a few runs. Start with Crescent, Payday, and then Jackass. If you’re comfortable on Upper Jackass, a top to bottom run is a possibility.” For riders ready to ride the lower mountain, King recommends starting with
the blue flow trails: Jackass, Corkscrew (or Lower Payday), High/Low Life, Afternoon Delight, Pepsi Can, Wildcat, and Frog Trees. Plan 45 minutes to an hour for the top-tobottom ride.
Long-time Spokane mountain biker Justin Skay had his first taste of lift-served riding at Silver in June and the experience shredded his pre-conceived notions. “I expected a bunch of hardcore bros in polos and chest protectors doing secret handshakes midbackflip,” he jokes, before noting that he had such a good time he’s been kicking himself ever since for not riding Silver sooner. “I had never done this before because I didn’t have the right bike or the right helmet,” says Skay, adding that his recent upgrade from a hardtail to a dual-suspension mountain bike convinced him to give it a try.
“What I like about Silver Mountain trails is the variability. You can truly choose your own adventure out there, even in the same run riding from fast open flow to techy double-blacks.” Skay says his whole first experience made the mountain feel much more approachable than he thought it would be. “I remember really enjoying the easy oscillation of Lower Payday, and Afternoon Delight had some steep, tall banks to let you really dig into the turns. War Gerbil is a great
transitional trail: some flow, some tech, great learning run. There were ample opportunities to catch air, but none felt forced, with ride-arounds everywhere.”
Skay says he’ll be back and is considering a season pass. “I think the math works out after five or six visits, and I could see making this a regular summer weekend trip. There are plenty of trails to hone your skills for years.” Before his next day of riding, though, he plans to invest in better safety gear, including a full-face helmet and knee pads and possibly elbow pads and chest protectors.
If you’re thinking about following in Skay’s tread tracks by riding at Silver for the first time this summer, King and his fellow bike park patrollers urge riders to come prepared with hydration and snacks, a spare tube, a pump, plugs, bike tools, CO2, fullface helmet, and pads.
“If it’s your first time riding Silver, consider signing up for a lesson from one of our certified instructors to help learn the trails and get tips specific to your riding style,” suggests King. Lesson packages with downhill bike rentals are available at https:// tinyurl.com/Silvermtb. “When you get to the bottom, grab a $1 slice of pizza at Wildcat Pizza. You’ve earned it!”
AND A PRAYER ON A WING
THE WATERSPORTS WONDER OF WING FOILING
BY BRAD NACCARATO
THERE HASN’T BEEN a whole lot of evolution in the wind sports industry over the last several decades. The ‘70s and ‘80s saw the emergence of windsurfing, and with it a collective culture of wind-bums who ascended upon legendary towns like Hood River, Ore.
At the turn of the century, kiteboarding came next out of Hawaii and significantly cranked up the adrenaline meter. While enticing and exhilarating, kiteboarding’s extreme nature was not as well suited for the masses. The need for multiple lessons and the potential risks involved created a large barrier of entry.
Windsurfing, while tamer than kiteboarding, had always been very technical and required significant wind to experience enjoyable speeds or the ability to track up-wind (tacking back and forth in a manner that allows you to finish where you started, as opposed to drifting down-wind). The barrier of entry was not as formidable, but unless you lived someplace with lots of wind, you’d spend a lot of days frustrated on the beach.
In recent years, two new developments have essentially bridged the gap between these two disciplines, and opened up a new world of possibilities for folks who live near less-windy bodies of water.
The first is the “hand wing.” Constructed in a similar fashion to kites, with an inflatable frame and a nylon canopy, these wings are lightweight, rigid, and collect a respectable amount of pull from the wind for their size. Completely free of any line or board attachment, the wing’s angle and position are controlled by the handles that line the wing’s center strut.
While these new wings were easier to manage than traditional board sails, and safer than modern kites, the problem of needing big wind still loomed. That’s where the “foil” has come in. Boat foils have been around in various forms for the last 100 years, but it’s only recently that people started to experiment with them in board applications.
Foils are an engineering marvel that, when given the right mixture of speed and resistance from the water, elevate whatever vessel they are underneath, creating a feeling of flying above the water. It also eliminates almost all of the vessel’s drag on the water, which means very little energy is needed to continue forward propulsion, whether it be the push of a wave or the pull of the wind.
GETTING INTO WING FOILING
As a person who’s tried both kiteboarding and windsurfing, wing foiling felt much safer to me than kiteboarding and “freer” than windsurfing with the wing being independent of the board. The same wind principles apply, so if you understand where the wind windows are and how to articulate a sail to maximize or minimize pull, the learning curve is rather quick.
The most challenging piece will come in mastering the foil. The best advise I got was to learn how to foil behind a boat first. Having to manage both the wing and foil at the same time can be difficult for beginners who have no experience with either. Getting on foil doesn’t take much effort or pull from the boat, but staying on foil is where you’ll have to learn how to make constant micro adjustments in weight distribution and foot position to maintain the foil’s flight.
You can also learn the hand wing skills independently by using a large SUP board instead
of a foil board for your first on-water sessions. You won’t break any speed records, but you’ll learn the basics of hand placement and wing positioning, as well as tacking progressions. If you already own a SUP, you’ll only need to purchase a center keel so that you can track up-wind. Slingshot Sports makes a nifty adhesive keel called the “SUP Winder” that works on any rigid board.
WHERE TO GO WING FOILING
Gwen Le Tutour is a Sandpoint City Beach legend. He and a small group of locals have set the tone for the emerging wing foil scene on Lake Pend Oreille. The lake’s sheer size gives it an advantage over other smaller lakes in the region when it comes to wind. The most consistent wind patterns happen in the spring and fall when high- and low-pressure systems are often cycling.
I'm blown away with how foiling has made the most unexpected places become fun playgrounds for water sports,” says Le Tutour. “No need to be in Hawaii to have fun—it's available to anybody, anywhere, even here in North Idaho.”
In addition to Lake Pend Oreille, many local riders make the journey to Sprague Lake, an hour west of Spokane. Sprague benefits from many of the same thermal weather events that Hood River has, giving it consistent wind year-round.
GETTING THE GEAR
If you’re ready to purchase, Gwen owns and operates Wingfoilprocenter.com. There you can find everything you need to get started as well as links to his YouTube page that has tons of valuable information on gear, technique and locations. Gwen offers local lessons for any ability level in the summer at Sandpoint’s City Beach, with the priority of keeping it fun and positive. Additionally, Hood River, 4.5 hours southwest of Spokane, has several shops that can help guide your purchase.
Brad Naccarato is a Northwest native whose been contributing to OTO since 2012. Chasing trout, wind, waves, dirt, and IPAs keeps him sane.
LESSONS FROM AN INAUGURAL DADDAUGHTER BACKPACKING TRIP
by Joel Sattgast
SINCE RETURNING to the Northwest three years ago, I’ve been gently preparing my daughters physically, mentally, and emotionally to ensure they were ready to handle their first overnight backpacking trip. Recently, our family has tackled family camping trips in primitive areas, countless hikes, bike rides, runs, and even rehearsed an at home mantra of “We’re made to do tough things.”
At 8 and 10 years old, it seemed my daughters were finally ready to embark on their inaugural backpacking expedition. Remaining flexible with dates and selecting a location less than two hours from Spokane allowed us to take full advantage of an ideal weather window in early June.
After narrowing our inaugural daddaughter backpacking trip to a few alpine lakes in North Idaho, we settled on one a short drive off I-90 in the Bitterroot Mountains. Having explored some of this area within the Idaho Panhandle National Forest in the fall of 2023 via day hikes, it would afford a sense of familiarity and, hopefully, ease some of the girls’ trepidation with backpacking into a remote area and spending the night. However, with the lake sitting at an elevation of around 5,500 feet,
the tradeoff would be an increased potential for snow and higher runoff through the creek. All things considered, our destination was set.
We planned to arrive at the trailhead early in the morning to allow ample time to hike the 2.5 miles to the lake and navigate 1,600 feet of elevation gain prior to a lunchtime arrival at our destination. Upon departure, the excitement quickly wore off, giving way to achy shoulders and backs, tired legs, and questions of “how much longer!?!” I knew this was going to happen—but so soon into the hike? Really!?
Dipping into the chocolate stash helped, along with mental distractions of “Would you rather…” (e.g. would you rather wear high heels or ballet slippers for the rest of your life?) These strategies, combined with alternating 10-minute intervals of dad carrying their packs suitcase-style (farmer carry marches for the win) offered just enough reprieve, encouragement, and distraction to forge ahead.
LESSON 1: PLAN TO MITIGATE MENTAL AND PHYSICAL
FATIGUE
About one hour into the hike, we encountered the first major obstacle—the creek
had swollen due to higher runoff and the usual easy log bridge crossing was now a tricky, and slick, rapid water crossing. After ferrying all the packs to the other side of the creek, the last challenge was helping the girls safely across. The packs had made it on my back, so naturally a piggy-back made the most sense—until it didn’t!
Halfway across, my foot slipped, and into the water I went along with my passengerdaughter. Halting my fall, my knee and shin made immediate contact with a submerged rock. As my daughter would say, “Biscuits!!!” Thankfully, the water was only 2-3 feet deep, and socks and boots will dry, but falling into a creek with my daughter on my back on our first backpacking trip was not on the agenda.
After recovering and offering thanksgiving no serious injuries were incurred, we identified a better plan to help my other daughter across without further incident. Had we taken just a bit more time initially, perhaps we would have come to a similar conclusion that would have kept us all dry and minimized our safety risk.
LESSON 2: TAKE TIME TO ANALYZE ALL AVAILABLE OPTIONS
A short triage and assessment ensured nothing was broken or sprained post-creek fall (an added benefit of training as an orthopedic physical therapist), and we were quickly on our way to tackle the remaining climb toward the lake. Surprisingly, this moment of adversity renewed our spirits, and suddenly achy shoulders/backs and tired legs were replaced with thanks and optimism for the adventure ahead. What seemed like a major negative in my mind had brought out a greater strength and determination in the girls. Turns out, “We’re made to do tough things” was more than just a nice platitude – here we were turning words into actions!
LESSON 3: ADVERSITY CAN BUILD CHARACTER AND PERSEVERANCE
Tackling the last remaining climbs and areas of snowpack proved beneficial as we were rewarded with picturesque views of the lake upon our arrival. After setting up camp, collecting dry branches and pinecones for an evening fire, and identifying the best locations for water filtration and answering nature’s call, we settled into our afternoon and evening by exploring the lake shore and the surrounding terrain. Despite significant surface ice on the water, the girls managed to endure the cold and do some knee-deep wading along the shoreline in the afternoon
sun. A cool reward for enduring the strenuous hike to camp!
That evening and into the next morning provided ample opportunity for adventure, campfire discussions about the ‘best’ and ‘worst’ of backpacking, a few life-lesson applications, and even some surprise treats. (Pro Tip: s’mores would’ve been hard to pack, but individually wrapped Rice Krispies roasted over the campfire were a major “win.”)
LESSON 4: KEEP IT SHORT
While it would have been easy to prolong our trip, the next morning we packed up camp and began the trek back to the trailhead. By targeting a 36-hour window for our first backpacking trip, the goal was to ensure spirits remained high and energy did not wane too much.
If I’m honest, I’ve been imagining this trip for almost a decade. After our children were born, tempered with not wanting to wish away their younger years, I began looking forward to sharing my love for the outdoors via camping/backpacking, fishing and hunting, hiking, cycling, running and the list goes on. And while I do not expect they will immediately fall in love with every experience or adventure we undertake, I do hope that with an element of intentional planning, combined with varying yet frequent exposures, I can impart just a bit of the sense of excitement I have for outdoor adventures. In doing so, maybe I’ll gain a few adventure partners … and they’ll look forward to some one-on-one time with dad.
Joel Sattgast is an outdoor enthusiast who loves sharing in adventures with his family. When not exploring, he’s a physical therapist, performance coach, and EWU faculty.
WASTE IN THE WOODS
by Holly Weiler
LET’S SPEND A MOMENT thinking about an uncomfortable topic in order to improve everyone’s outdoor experience this summer: waste in the woods. Human excrement. Almost every outdoor enthusiast has likely come across a surface pile, possibly even accidently stepped in it, and it’s both unsightly and unsanitary. It’s also a growing problem at popular recreation sites across the region, but it is easily mitigated with a little advance planning.
If you’re not already, it’s time to pack a poop kit along with the rest of the 10 essentials. Being prepared to go outside makes it easy to take care of business properly, even in the event of an emergency situation. Many popular trailheads across our region lack a toilet, and the majority of backcountry recreation sites do not have outhouses. But pack a small trowel, anything from a small plastic gardening shovel to the fancier Deuce of Spades, and it’s easy to dig a “cathole” to bury your business. Keep it in a bag along with some hand sanitizer to clean up afterwards. Distance matters when choosing the best location: distance from trails, campsites, and especially water. Be a minimum of 200 feet away from any of these, although considering how popular some backcountry locations can be and the ensuing circle of poop generated by so many visitors, it’s better to be generous with this distance. Remember that especially for backpackers, many of us are
also filtering the water from nearby streams and lakes for drinking purposes, and human excrement deposited too close can lead to waterborne illnesses.
After distance, consider the depth needed when narrowing down the site. I avoid rocky areas and dense tree roots, since they can make it impossible to achieve the minimum 6-inch depth needed for a proper cathole. The goal is to dig a hole deep enough to accept the entire deposit, then leave it wellcovered so that soil microbes can begin the sometimes-long process of breaking down the excrement. A too-shallow hole increases the chances of the poop getting dug up by animals or breaking down more slowly.
Regarding toilet paper, the best practice is to pack it out. Not everyone is there yet, and that’s okay: just make sure that it’s only toilet paper if deciding to bury it (and it must be buried, not left as unsightly Charmin flowers). Wet wipes do not break down and are frequently scented (which attracts wildlife), so should always be packed out. All feminine hygiene products should also be bagged, packed out, and disposed of properly in the trash at home.
Dog poop bags are the easiest, most readily available means of doing so, and can be double bagged inside a large Ziploc for extra insurance against odors or contamination. Taking these steps will help keep our favorite places clean (and sanitary) for everyone.
Reflections on a River
Why the Spokane River’s fate runs through us all
THE SPOKANE RIVER tumbles powerfully through the heart of the Spokane metro. It’s a small section of the river, which threads 111 miles from Lake Coeur d’Alene to Lake Roosevelt, but the location is a metaphor for how we should view the river: central to the health of our region, people, wildlife and culture.
When I began to call Spokane home, I wondered what the river’s problems were, what challenges it faced, and what we were trying to do better. This spring, I followed my curiosity. I took my first whitewater rafting trip, interviewed staff of the Spokane Riverkeeper, and talked to local conservation groups and tribes. Whether you’re a river novice, like I was, or well-versed in the river’s issues, I hope my journey will illuminate the many ways you might get to know the river better.
On an overcast day in June, I met up with FLOW Adventures for a guided whitewater trip on the Spokane. Our launch site was Redband Park, appropriately named after the native trout I’d recently learned about. From there, we could see the towering structures of downtown, even though we were about to paddle Class III rapids.
We received a safety briefing from our raft guide Joe Nollete, a bearded, experienced guide in his 50s, and our safety boater Ty, who was in his early 20s and still earning his river hours. That morning, I was one of seven passengers who donned PFDs provided by FLOW, grabbed a paddle, and stepped onto a bright blue raft.
Where the water was calm, we practiced our paddling. Our first assignment was to avoid the pilings of the Sandifur bridge. Nollete instructed our movements — left side back, right side forward; all forward; take a rest. We seemed to earn a passing grade. My goal, as a river newbie, was to stay on the raft.
After the bridge, we cruised past brush-lined riverbanks, maneuvering once or twice to stay clear of “strainers,” which were downed trees or branches extending into the river. The reason it is called a strainer is that it will treat your body like a noodle, Nollete told us. “Which would not be good,” he clarified.
The mood of our group was light, knowing we were under Nollete’s savvy watch. He outlined features you might only see from the seat of a raft, like brick-red rock on the riverbank. It was, indeed, brick, he told us—rubble from buildings that was dumped into the river long ago.
“If someone had a lot of ambition, they could build a house out of that,” Nollete joked as we drifted by. But the bricks were evidence of
By Lisa Laughlin
how we treated the river at the onset of industrialization in Spokane: a dumping ground for everything.
Before my whitewater trip, I spoke with Jule Schultz, the Waterkeeper at the Spokane Riverkeeper organization, who told me that 35,000 pounds of trash had already been removed from the river this year. It was May. This was a staggering and excellent thing—that trash was out of the river for good, since it had been collected before the water level rose.
The Spokane Riverkeeper is a nonprofit dedicated to keeping the Spokane River fishable and swimmable. If we want to talk pollution, though, trash is really just an aesthetic pollutant. To cover the bigger offenders like heavy metals (lead, arsenic, and zinc from old mining operations), phosphorus and nitrogen (related to loss of riparian habitat and agricultural operations), PCBs, and temperature, I spoke with Katelyn Scott, an attorney and the Water Protector for the Spokane Riverkeeper.
One of Scott’s roles is to hold polluters accountable by making sure they follow their discharge permits. The state regulates over 60 chemical pollutants, and they go into the same water that supports our wildlife. The discharge permits set limits on the amount of pollution that is legally and regularly dumped into the river. One mission of the Spokane Riverkeeper is to get those allowed pollution levels down as low as possible.
When I spoke to Scott in May, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) had just released the final draft of a PCB cleanup plan for the Spokane River, which was looking positive in Scott’s eyes because the EPA was using the Spokane Tribe’s standard for pollution, which is the lowest in the basin. (The tribal standard is 1.3 picograms, while the state level remains at 7 picograms.)
Another river pollutant is 6PPD, a rubber-stabilizing chemical that comes off car tires. Scott is encouraging the state to do more studies on 6PPD and its effect on salmon and trout so we can set limits and create healthier habitat for the return of salmon.
6PPD gets into the river when it washes in with stormwater, which also carries in things like fertilizer and road salts. In Spokane, we have a combined stormwater and sewage treatment system. This is good because it takes our stormwater and treats it; it’s bad because when there’s too much input, like after a heavy rainstorm, the system overflows, which means raw sewage is also discharged into the river.
Before you swear off swimming, know that sewage and stormwa-
ter treatment is getting better. The City of Spokane recently installed 25 Combined Sewer Overflow (CSO) tanks, which will accommodate the system overflow for decades and help keep untreated sewage out of the river.
The next thing he yelled, as we neared the biggest wave of the rapid, probably makes the top-five list of things I do not want to hear my whitewater guide yelling: “We are not where we want to be!"
The water we rafted on looked clear without the sun’s refraction. When I twisted over the side of the raft, I could see large boulders at the river’s floor. I was finding more
time to look around on this whitewater journey than I’d anticipated. As we floated through a calm bend known as the “big eddy,” our group admired a bald eagle perched on a tree snag.
If I’m being honest, I wasn’t impressed with our synchronized paddling. Our left side was weak. Nollete assured us that our paddling was akin to the role of an engine; we were the power, and he could maneuver us with the long oars from his raised seat at the back of the raft. Still, as we approached the roar of our first big rapids at Bowl and Pitcher, I was apprehensive.
I had viewed this feature many times from the swinging bridge, heart racing as I stared down at the wild torrent of water. As we drifted toward the first set, Nollete instructed, “all forward.” People on both sides began to paddle. Then he started yelling, “dig, dig, dig!,” which meant we were not paddling hard enough.
The next thing he yelled, as we neared the biggest wave of the rapid, probably makes the top-five list of things I do not want to hear my whitewater guide yelling: “We are not where we want to be!”
Theredband trout population is not where we want it to be. The salmon, even less so.
The Spokane River used to have almost a million anadromous fish, fish like steelhead and Chinook salmon that migrated to the sea and back to our river to spawn. Local tribes historically relied on the life-source of the river’s salmon for subsistence fishing and trading with other tribes. In the last 100 years, a combination of pollution, grazing and dams extirpated the Spokane salmon population and left land-locked redband trout, remnants of the steelhead population.
With native salmon gone, we look at redband trout as a sentinel species to judge the health of the river. Data shows a startling decline: in 1984, the Spokane Valley fishery had 3,840 fish per mile. Now, in surveys of that same stretch, there are 60 fish per mile. The trout are suffering, so a major question Schultz asks in his role is at the Riverkeeper is, why?
Schultz has a few obvious thoughts: invasive species like pike, which got a voracious foothold in too-warm waters; destruction of riparian zones, which allows
We hit the first big wave at Bowl and Pitcher with the side of our raft. When it became likely that I might get kicked out of the raft, I started to paddle like there was no tomorrow. That kick of adrenaline meant I missed most of the scenic view of the bridge I’d been looking forward to, instead focused on jamming my toes under the raft supports for a literal foothold as water washed aboard. Our group got wet—wet enough to gain a laugh from our safety boater, Ty, who rolled easily ahead of us—but I’m happy to report all seven of us remained in the boat.
After our big grins wore off, the river calmed, and we once again drifted without paddling. We had a few minutes before the next river feature, known as Devil’s Toenail. As we reset, I trailed my hand down in the river. Though we approached the summer solstice, it was still cold to the touch.
Imentionedearlier that temperature was a pollutant. It’s pretty simple: fish need cold water to live. When flow levels drop, river temperatures warm.
During the the hottest summer months, in
In order to prevent super-low flows in our river, we need to conserve water yearround, not just when it’s hot outside. But most of us don’t see the damage of low flow. We just turn on the sprinklers.
sediment and farm chemicals to decrease the oxygen available to fish; segmentation of the river from dams, which contributes to temperature pollution; and metal pollution killing off available food, as macro invertebrates (the bugs the fish favor) are highly sensitive to metals.
The fisheries in the valley and near downtown are catch-and-release only, due to the toxins in the river and lack of fish. You’ll find fish consumption advisories due to PCB levels, and we’re only beginning to test for PFAS.
It’s not all doom and gloom though, Shultz assured me. The trout numbers are better downstream at 300 fish per mile, where the water is cooler thanks to aquifer input. While he would rate our recreational fishery health as “difficult,” there are still enough trout for recreational fishing.
Downriver of the Nine Mile Dam and in Lake Spokane, the numbers are even higher. You can catch and eat fish, especially the non-native species like walleye, perch and bass. Still, when I was on the river with Nollete, he said his rule of thumb was to eat fish from the river no more than two times a week.
our arid climate, we dump a lot of water on our lawns. Tack on more frequent drought years, and this becomes a big problem for the river. Meaning it’s a problem for us.
In 2019, the average household in Spokane was using 587 gallons of water a day in the summer. To lend some context, our average annual consumption is 235 gallons, and that number is almost triple the national average of 82 gallons. While this data is a few years old, the message remains clear — our summer water usage is out of control. And it is hurting our river.
In 2022, predecessor Riverkeeper Jerry White petitioned for the City of Spokane to adopt a water conservation program that would give guidelines and incentives for responsible outdoor water use. It would also
RIGHT: COUNCILWOMAN MONICA TONASKET RELEASING A JUVENILE SUMMER CHINOOK TO THE SPOKANE RIVER // PHOTO COURTESY OF SPOKANE TRIBAL FISHERIES.
PREVIOUS PAGE: THE AUTHOR (LEFT) AND SOME NEWFOUND RIVER FRIENDS WITH GUIDE JOE NOLLETE //
encourage the city to hold large water facilities accountable for their water usage. The ordinance went into effect that year, but it’s been slow to take.
In order to prevent super-low flows in our river, we need to conserve water year-round, not just when it’s hot outside. But most of us don’t see the damage of low flow. We just turn on the sprinklers. One of Shultz’s goals is to increase public engagement with the river’s water levels. If he had his way, we’d project the river flow year-round on the downtown clock tower.
Managing your water is perhaps the easiest way to become a riverkeeper yourself. Scour the city’s webpage on the Water Wise program to learn about the water conservation ordinance, effective June-October, which includes outdoor watering schedules by house address. You’ll also find opportunities for rebates for water-saving items like smart sprinklers, high-efficiency toilets, and replacing your lawn with droughttolerant plants.
“We have a huge impact on the river, and we can change it,” says Shultz.
The river is powerful, but its water is not infinite.
“It sounds like there’s a jet . . . but there’s not,” says Nollete, which cues our group into our approach of Devil’s Toenail. The rapid looked as gnarly as its name. I was holding my breath again.
To our group’s paddling credit, we hit the waves nose-first this time. With Nollete instructing us precisely on when to paddle or rest, on the left or the right, the Devil’s Toenail turned out to be a series of big, fun bumps. After the rapids, we reached flat water on the river. It was an experience of contrast, of rough water and sudden stillness. This river had multiple personalities.
The experience of Devil’s Toenail reminded me of something Scott had told me: “That river is so powerful, but it will also share its power with you if you’re willing to listen and sit with it for a while.”
It is just as important to listen to one another as we work toward river health and restoration.
Our responsibility to curb our water use dovetails into an important conservation topic: the restoration of salmon. To satisfy the rights of local tribes to take fish, we need salmon to come back to harvestable levels. And we need healthy flow levels to do that.
The prospect of returning salmon is a cultural point. I spoke with Caj Matheson, a member of the Coeur d’Alene Tribe who works as the Natural Resources Director and serves on the tribal council, about the historical importance of the Spokane River and its salmon to his people.
The river has always been sacred and life-sustaining, often personified in the tribe’s oral stories, and its salmon were critical to the tribe’s nutrition and survival. Several generations ago, traveling to harvest salmon nurtured relationships with other tribes like the Spokane. Matheson says salmon season was a time when the tribes would intermarry and partake in things like gambling, foot races, and horse or swimming races.
"You can just imagine the absolute festive atmosphere that was involved in getting together with these other tribes to capture salmon. It was really without measure. There was an emotional and spiritual thing that salmon really provided for the tribes in bringing us all together in a celebratory way,” says Matheson.
The Upper Columbia United Tribes, led by the Coeur d’Alene, Colville, and Spokane tribes, are in phase two of testing the feasibility of permanent, full-scale salmon reintroduction. This spring, in the Spokane River and other blocked areas of the Upper Columbia, they released 2,000 yearling Chinook salmon tagged with acoustic transmitters and 120,000 implanted with PIT tags. Phase two includes tracking the spawning locations of these fish. It also requires doing things like physically driving the fish in trucks to portage around dams and place them in their historic waterways.
Conor Giorgi, who is the Anadromous Project Manager for the Spokane Tribal Fisheries, says the salmon are doing just what they’re supposed to: finding places to reproduce.
“We take that as confirmation of the habitat assessments (phase one) we did a number of years ago. We are seeing the next generation come out of the Spokane,” says Giorgi.
In September of 2023, the tribes signed a settlement agreement with the federal government to fully fund phase two reintroduction efforts. It’s positive news, but it’s still a long game to play. Tribes are evaluating how well fish perform in habitats, what they can expect from those populations, and designing and installing interim fish passage systems at all five dams. This will take the next 20 years to complete, says Giorgi. With a salmon’s lifecycle at six years, collecting data just takes time.
“When you think about salmon coming back, our hope
is that all those things get restored back to our people. All this spiritual fullness, the health, the vibrancy that it can bring is something that we’re really looking forward to,” says Matheson.
Meanwhile, the river faces ever-evolving demands from climate and people. But, as Shultz put it, “We now have a rallying cry here: we need a healthy river for these fish.”
So,what can you do? Get to know the river. Sign up with the Riverkeeper to study mercury levels in crayfish this July; participate in a river clean-up; take samples to test turbidity (water clarity) in Hangman Creek; or just get onto one of the many river beaches and enjoy being by, on, or in the river.
To aid anglers and recreationists alike, Shultz has installed real-time temperature sensors along the river. Fishermen seek cold waters where fish thrive; groups looking to float in a tube in July and August want a warm stretch of river. Find water temperature data for Harvard Road, Peaceful Valley and the Little Spokane River at Spokaneriverkeeper.org/ water-temperature.
If you study where to go, the river can be a great place for fishing, paddling, swimming and tubing in summer months. Find an interactive map of the Spokane River, which lists launch sites and amenities, at Spokaneriver.net/watertrail. Always wear a PFD on the water and enlist a guide if you’re out of your comfort zone. Silver Bow Fly Shop and Fly Fish Spokane lead fly fishing trips, while FLOW Adventures handles logistics with tube rentals and shuttle service.
“Start by just dipping your feet in,” says Shultz. “Literally and figuratively.” Because we protect the things we know and love.
Justbefore our raft reached the take-out point at Plese Flats, where we would catch a FLOW shuttle back to Redband Park, someone spotted the brown pelt of a coyote. We watched as it picked its way up the hill from the river, weaving through bunches of purple lupine toward the Centennial Trail. We talked about how this place still felt wild, even if it wasn’t as wild as we wanted or needed it to be.
Lisa Laughlin is the managing editor of Out There Outdoors and has an MFA in Creative Nonfiction. She lives, writes, runs and paddleboards in Spokane.
Moses Lake Water Weekend Getaway
Hit the city’s water park and get to know this unique eastern Washington lake.
Water Guide
AN HOUR AND A HALF west of Spokane in the arid Columbia Basin, the City of Moses Lake offers some great ways to play in the water and enjoy the massive 6,800-acre lake by the same name.
Top on the list is a visit to the city’s Surf ‘n Slide Water Park (open Memorial Day through Labor Day Weekend). This handicap-accessible water park is home to a 300foot lazy river, a children’s splash pad, two 200foot water slides, two sand volleyball courts, an Olympic-sized competitive pool, and the Flowrider, an artificial surfing simulator.
The 18-mile-long Moses Lake is a watersports playground that can be explored by motor boat, kayak, paddleboard, sailboat, or canoe. Setting out on the Moses Lake Water Trail is an awesome way to get to know the lake. Start your paddle from Connelly Park, Peninsula Park, or the popular Blue Heron Park. Camp and launch from Cascade Park in the second full week of August and you’ll be able to walk to the Grant County Fair. Other lake access points include Neppel Landing, Montlake Park, the downtown McCosh Park, and the Bureau Irrigation Dams launch site, which connects to
Moses Lake and the nearby Potholes Reservoir and Crab Creek offer excellent fishing opportunities for a variety of species, including bluegill, sunfish, walleye, smallmouth bass (some in the 5-lb.-plus size range), largemouth bass, rainbow trout, black crappie, and yellow perch. While a boat is an ideal way to bounce around the lake in search of fish, anglers can find success as well from the shore. Find boat launch info and other fishing tips at Tourmoseslake. com/fishing.
The best way to fully experience the water park, lake, and town is to spend a couple of days exploring, and the city offers plenty of amenities to occupy your evenings. Check out craft beer and wine tasting rooms, eat at one of the family-owned restaurants like Michael’s on the Lake, visit Ten Pin Brewing for craft beer in the local bowling alley, or take a stroll through the city’s Japanese Peace Garden. Moses Lake offers a variety of comfortable lodging options, as well as camping at the lakeside Cascade Campground. Learn more and plan your trip at Tourmoseslake. com.
Moses Lake has fun activities for the entire family. Enjoy a day boating along Moses Lake or hiking one of the local trails. Spend the day sampling wine from one of the local wineries. Or do both! And when the sun goes down, we have you covered with unique night spots to hang out and enjoy the friends you’ve brought with you, or hang with the locals.
Become an Outdoor Watering Nerd
Save water this summer and help protect the Spokane River.
DO YOU LOVE exploring the great outdoors?
Do you want to protect Spokane River flows by saving water? Do you want to spend less time tending your lawn? Outdoor Watering Nerds are here to help.
The Outdoor Watering Nerds website (Outdoorwateringnerds.org) provides a host of resources in the form of how-to videos, water saving tips, and rebate options in Kootenai and Spokane counties. You can learn to detect outdoor leaks, repair and retrofit your sprinkler system, install a weatherbased sprinkler controller, or use native and drought-tolerant plants in your landscaping. A directory on this webpage connects you to professionals if do-it-yourself isn’t your thing. Working together, our small to large actions to reduce outdoor watering add up
to big changes that protect our environment, including our sole source aquifer that provides drinking water to over half of a million people. Summertime is a good season to consider water conservation, because that’s when we use three to five times more water than we do in the winter just to keep our lawns green. As we pump more water from the aquifer to water our lawns, Spokane river flows reach their lowest. The hottest months of the year are the time when the river needs cold water the most to maintain a healthy environment for fish, wildlife, and recreation.
Visit Outdoorwateringnerds. org. It’s good for you, good for our river and aquifer, and good for our future.
Conserve Water to Protect the Spokane River
By Katelyn Scott, Water Protector and Jule Schultz, Waterkeeper
THE SPOKANE RIVER is an incredible resource that provides endless recreation and vital wildlife habitat. However, climate change and increased water demands are putting the river at risk. The Spokane River is fed in large part by warmer surface water from Lake Coeur d'Alene and cold groundwater from the Spokane Valley Rathdrum Prairie Aquifer. When Lake Coeur d’Alene outflows decrease in the summertime, the river has a higher proportion of cold aquifer water. However, increased summer pumping lowers aquifer water available for maintaining cold water fish habitat.
The combination of higher water demand and lower flows creates a perfect storm for degrading the river’s health and the recreation it supports. Warmer water temperatures reduce oxygen levels in the water, stress aquatic life, and can intensify the effects of toxins. Coldwater fish like trout and salmon are highly sensitive to temperature changes. Increased water consumption
leaves less cold aquifer water that the river needs to maintain summer water temperatures, shrinking available habitat for native fish that need the colder water to thrive.
Water conservation, particularly in outdoor watering, is a powerful tool to protect the Spokane River. The City of Spokane has a drought response ordinance that sets watering limits for residents, such as asking you to water on odd or even days of the week and avoid the peak high-heat hours of the day. Though it only applies to city residents, we can all follow these measures to protect our river.
By reducing water consumption, we can help maintain adequate flow levels in the river, which in turn supports cooler water temperatures and healthier ecosystems. For those who love to swim, fish, kayak, or simply enjoy the river's natural beauty, maintaining a healthy Spokane River is essential. Ensuring cooler, cleaner waters means that current and future generations can continue to enjoy the river's benefits.
Spokane River signal crayfish are huge and beautiful. You might see some at our new Walk & Talk events with our staff. Learn about the river, its inhabitants, and all our upcoming events using this code, or visit spokaneriverkeeper.com.
Walk & Talk Schedule
July 10 & 24, August 7 & 21 Register for event
Lake Roosevelt Offers
130-miles of On-Water Adventures
Find campgrounds, boat launches, and swimming and paddling spots a short drive west of Spokane.
NAMED AFTER PRESIDENT Franklin D. Roosevelt, sprawling Lake Roosevelt, which is technically part of the Columbia River, rises out of the arid Eastern Washington landscape, offering lake-lovers a wide range of ways to cool off and play in and along its waters.
Lake Roosevelt hosts some of the region’s best lake-based outdoor recreation opportunities and is managed as a National Recreation Area by the National Park Service. Public access sites, including campgrounds, day-use areas, boat launches, boat-in campgrounds, historic and interpretive sites, and swimming beaches ring the lake. A few of the closest and most amenityrich sites are also the easiest to get to from Spokane via Lincoln County.
Two of these popular access areas and boat launches are Fort Spokane, near the town of Davenport (at the confluence of the Spokane River) and Spring Canyon near Grand Coulee. Situated among shadecasting ponderosa pine trees, Fort Spokane boasts 67 campsites with a boat launch, swimming area, and fishing opportunities. Visitors can learn about the area’s history along the nearby Sentinel Interpretive Trail. Spring Canyon Campground is a picturesque lake-side oasis with a day-use swimming area and beach, boat launch, shady trees, and nature trail to complement the 78 camping spaces. Plan your Lake Roosevelt adventures at Lakerooseveltandmore.com.
Tubing the Spokane River in Style
Enjoy the river and let FLOW Adventures run your shuttle and provide the tube.
IF YOU HAVE NEVER floated the Spokane River below downtown Spokane, add it to your summer bucket list. The mostly-serene float along this section includes a few small rapids that are easily managed in a tube once flows have dropped to a safe level, usually by the end of June (life jacket required). There are also plenty of slow-moving stretches of river that pass by miles of forested natural areas, little beaches, and wildlife habitat. Take the time to stop and swim, soak up the scenery, and have a snack or lunch along the way.
The most convenient way to do this float is booking a tube rental and/or shuttle from FLOW
Adventures with a start near the Sandifur Bridge pedestrian bridge at People’s Park, ending at the “take out” parking lot near the TJ Meenach Bridge. Skip shuttling vehicles back and forth and inflating, deflating, and cleaning your tube and just enjoy the river! Once you book, FLOW Adventures will take care of the logistics. Spokane River tubing is offered daily all summer to the end of September from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. The float takes approximately two hours plus any stops along the way. You can book a tube rental and shuttle, just a shuttle, and rent a tube to hold your cooler. Call 509-2428699 to book a trip or visit Flow-adventures. com/tubing.
Enjoy Care-Free Boating on Hayden Lake
Get on the water all summer without the hassle and cost of boat ownership.
HAYDEN LAKE is a seven-mile long, twomile wide North Idaho gem of crystal-clear water. Unfortunately, if you don’t own a boat, opportunities for enjoying this beautiful lake are limited. Enter the Carefree Boat Club of North Idaho. A membership to this club is the solution to summer fun on Hayden Lake and other Inland Northwest lakes without all of the expenses and work involved with boat ownership. In addition to boat access on Hayden Lake, Carefree Boat Club members can enjoy boating locally at Bayview, Priest River, and Sandpoint, as well as with over 140 Carefree Boat clubs around the world! If you’ve been thinking about buying a boat, spend some time at a boat launch first, where you’ll likely bear witness to the dark
side of owning one: tense couples struggling to launch or load boats; boats bumping into each other or docks; and a variety of other boat, trailer, and vehicle mishaps. Then give Carefree Boat Club a call (208-929-8617). It’s the solution for those who would rather walk onto a dock with towels and a cooler in hand and get on a boat and out in the water to play in minutes. After a fun day in the sun, pull back up to the dock and it’s time to go home. Carefree Boat Club does the work of cleaning, buttoning up, and maintaining the boats. Then when boating season wraps up, they winterize and store the boats, leaving you with more time for yourself and family.
Hayden Lake, just a few minutes north of Coeur d’Alene, has 40 miles of shoreline with warm, summertime water that’s perfect for swimming, tubing, and wake sports. There’s also some fabulous fishing! The fleet of Carefree Boat Club boats at Hayden Lake Marina include a pontoon boat, jet boat, and wake-surf boat. Grab a pontoon boat and head out to join the festivities at the Hayden Lake sandbar. Shred the wake on a surf session in the wake-surf boat. Or cruise the bays in the jet boat. Grab a boat and go. Learn more at Carefreeboats.com/locations/ north-idaho/hayden-lake-marina.
Artificial intelligence. Spam bots. Fake news. Alternative facts. It gets harder every day to tell truth from fiction, the genuine article from authentic B.S. But not out here. Here, rocks are rocks, and trees are trees. Water makes you wet. Sun warms your skin. Food fills your belly. Friends make you laugh. There’s nothing virtual about this reality.
Here’s to trading algorithms for nature’s rhythms—for an hour, a day, a week—or a three-week Grand Canyon cleanse. When we need a break from the madness, there’s no substitute for a breath of fresh air. Time to fill our lungs and refill our buckets.
Fly Across the Water on the New HydroFlyer
A one-of-a-kind electric watercraft that almost anybody can ride
REVOLUTIONIZE your lake time with the new HydroFlyer, the most versatile personal watercraft for outdoor enthusiasts. The HydroFlyer seamlessly blends an e-bike, Jet Ski and a surfboard with its unique platform design and its high-output electric motor. Early adopters love the versatility, control features, portability and short learning curve.
Designed and built in Canada, the HydroFlyer solves the key challenges most people experience with e-surf foiling, such as managing wake, fatigue and balance with the addition of the removable handlebars, boat-inspired board design and extended two-hour battery. Riders can launch and return as easy as stepping off and back on the dock.
With only four major components— board, battery, motor and stabilizer—the HydroFlyer disassembles and can be carried, stowed or carted by a single person. The ergonomically designed handle grips, scooped deck for increased responsiveness and forward-facing rider position reduces rider leg fatigue over long sessions. The aggressive stance lends to increased control, maneuverability and creates leverage to engage waves, jumps and safely land.
The distinctive handlebars make it easier to balance, reduces wipeouts and shortens the learning curve for beginners. Even first timers with zero surf or foiling experience can get up and enjoy flying right away.
There’s also the option to hand carry the controller for those who enjoy the thrill and freedom of surf-foiling.
Speeds range from mild to wild (up to 35mph), making it the ultimate personal watercraft for varying ability levels. Acceleration and battery status is managed on the handlebars via the Bluetooth controller. Once the rider reaches a speed of around 4-6mph, the foil and thrust of the motor begin to work their magic, and the HydroFlyer starts to lift out of the water.
The HydroFlyer is the culmination of years of relentless R&D, cutting-edge innovation, multiple design iterations and plenty of hours spent flying over water. With only four major parts and no vehicle towing required, it stows in or on most vehicles and only weighs around 80lbs. The HydroFlyer’s ultra-efficient hydrofoil designs reduce drag and allow for maximum glide and acrobatic performance.
The HydroFlyer is the next generation of responsible and eco-friendly watercraft technology that the whole family can enjoy. Fly with us on the water and let the smiles and quality time on the water be remembered for generations! Visit Hydroflyer.com to learn more, then call our sales team at 208-449-7858 for a personalized quote.
Water Guide
Explore the Trails, Waters and Wilds of Oroville, Washington
OROVILLE LOCALS refer to their small town of around 2,000 just south of the Canadian Border in north central Washington as the "gold at the end of the road," a nod to its location at the end of US Highway 97 and its gold mining history. Situated at the top of Okanogan County surrounded by public lands with uncrowded outdoor recreation, it’s also a treasure trove of adventure possibilities. Oroville makes an awesome summer road trip destination. Here are a few of our favorite ways to hike, bike, and get on the water there.
HIKING WHERE THE CASCADE FOOTHILLS MEET DESERT COUNTRY
County roads with light traffic. Ride destinations include lakes, historic sites, parks, and other small towns. Plan your ride routes with this handy, printable map that includes route descriptions and details.
WATER SPORTS AND CAMPING ON OSOYOOS LAKE
Oroville sits in a scenic transition zone between the Cascade Mountains and eastern Washington’s arid, sage-dotted landscapes, making the area a unique hiking destination. The town and trails around it sit at the midway point along the Pacific Northwest Scenic Trail (PNT), a 1,200 mile-long hiking trail that runs from the Pacific Ocean to the Continental Divide in Montana. Within walking distance of downtown Oroville, you can trek for a few miles or days on the PNT.
Beautiful Osoyoos Lake, a 14-mile-long oasis, offers a wide range of water sports, swimming, and camping based out of the Osoyoos Lake Veterans Memorial Park. The warm summer waters and shallow shoreline make it a great family swimming and paddling option. There are two public boat launches, including one at the campground, for heading out on the water for lake cruising or wakeboarding, wake surfing or tubing.
EXCELLENT FISHING AT OROVILLE AREA LAKES AND RIVERS
Oroville lakes and rivers feature excellent fishing for steelhead, salmon, perch, trout, and other species, including worldclass bass fishing on Osoyoos Lake, which hosts several bass tournaments a year. Read more about Osoyoos Lake fishing here. The Similkameen and Okanogan rivers also boast some fine fishing for a wide range of fish species.
The Whistler Canyon Trail southeast of town offers scenic views, wildlife spotting, and multiple hiking length and route options, including side-trail excursions on the Frog Pond and Black Diamond trails. Northwest of Oroville, the Similkameen Trail rail trail (a 4-mile, mostly flat roundtrip hike) offers stunning scenery, historical interpretive signs, a chance to cross the 375foot Girder pedestrian bridge that spans the river and a final destination at the historic Enole Dam. Another locals-favorite hike is the Cactus Mountain Trail, aka "The Oroville Grind," a climb of 699 feet of elevation in 1.3 miles that takes you to the top of the mountain with expansive views of Osoyoos Lake and up the valley into British Columbia.
MILES OF LOW-TRAFFIC, WINDING ROAD BIKE ROUTES
Starting at Oroville's Depot Museum, which has a bike repair station if needed, there are several out-and-back and loop biking options that range from short, mellow rides to all-day epics on north Okanogan
AUTHENTIC SMALL-TOWN CHARM
Start planning your Oroville road trip at Discoverorovillewa.com. Time your stay for one of the unique Oroville-area events. The Chesaw Rodeo on July 4 includes a children's chicken scramble, good times in the historic Chesaw Tavern, and the opportunity to sign up to ride a wild cow. And don’t miss the on-water spectacle of the Lake Osoyoos Cup Jet Ski Races, Aug. 3-4. The event features live music, a beer garden, and Oroville’s Summer Family Festival happening simultaneously at Deep Lake Park. Walk the idyllic downtown streets of Oroville past historic buildings, unique shops and eateries, and enjoy several pieces of public art that tell the stories of Oroville's history, its people, and their dreams. Discover the golden outdoor recreation and rich history at the end of the road just 3.5 hours northwest of Spokane!
Close-to-Home Rafting on the Clark Fork
Find whitewater thrills and serene drifting for the day down this scenic Montana river.
THERE’S NOTHING LIKE a multi-day wilderness river rafting trip for unwinding from the stress of our daily lives and reconnecting with nature, but such trips are a big time commitment that won’t always work out with busy summer schedules. Fortunately, Montana’s Clark Fork River, just over two hours from Spokane, offers a day trip version of longer rafting adventures with the same whitewater thrills and serenity of floating through wild, beautiful landscapes.
Named after William Clark of the Lewis & Clark expedition, the Clark Fork, which begins in the Rocky Mountains near Butte, Mont., eventually makes its way west to its
terminus at Lake Pend Oreille. The Alberton Gorge section of the Clark Fork offers up a fun, family-friendly ride with roller coaster waves and intermediate (Class II-III) rapids. In between the frequent splashy rapids with names like Boat Eater, Fang, Cliffside, and Tumbleweed, there’s plenty of time to soak up the summer sun and swim in the calmer stretches or just kick back and relax while contemplating the river slowly passing by. While the Clark Fork remains accessible along much of I-90, most of the trip floats between deep canyon walls with towering, multi-colored cliffs that offer peace and solitude. This escape gives rafters the feeling of being far removed from the worries and
responsibilities they may have back home.
Local outfitter ROW Adventures offers one-day whitewater rafting trips down the Clark Fork River from July through September. In the summer months the river temperature is warm and idyllic for swimming, the rapids are at peak fun levels, and the weather is often sunny and hot, all making for an inviting day on the river. ROW’s trips meet and end at Superior, Mont., right off of I-90, and the downriver journey typically takes place in 13-foot paddle rafts where the passengers get to help propel the craft by paddling, per the guide’s instructions, through the rapids.
Since the river carves its way through the
mountainous country of western Montana, the surrounding forests are as beautiful as you’d expect, and sightings of many species of birds and other wildlife are likely and range from osprey and eagles to deer and other critters. Once you’re off the river, your sun-kissed, river-rocked body will feel lighter and more relaxed than before. Don’t be surprised to feel “Zenned-out” on the short drive back home that evening. A day on the Clark Fork with friends or family will be one of the highlights of your summer! Call 208-770-2517 to book a trip or visit Rowadventures.com for more info. Water Guide
Fire-Season Palette
By Claire Thompson
I SPENT MOST of the summer of 2022 clearing trails in burned forests. The Entiat River drainage in north central Washington, where I was working for the Forest Service, had been torched by a series of fires over the past two decades: 2006’s Tin Pan, 2014’s Duncan, 2015’s Wolverine, 2018’s Cougar. The previous summer, trail crews had cleared hundreds of logs from the Entiat’s main routes. This year, hundreds more singed snags had fallen to replace them.
I trudged through the tawny dust day after day, crosscut saw over my shoulder, watching the waterfalls that feed the Entiat River dwindle to trickles as the summer wore on. Hiking through the most shadeless stretches of trail, I tried to pass the time by looking in vain for seedlings, anything green to break the brown. The temperature in Wenatchee topped 100 again and again. At night, I continued to cut logs in my dreams.
The first week of September, I took a break from work to join a waterborne writing workshop. For six days, a group of us would float the Green River—which threads the border between Utah and Colorado—talking and writing about climate change. After several scorching months spent confronting the aftermath of wildfire and drought on a daily basis, the trip’s themes couldn’t have felt more apt.
So what surprised me the most, driving east into the desert at the beginning of September, was the green. Here in the Northwest, late summer is the least lush,
most flammable time of year. On my way to Utah, I’d crossed the corner of Oregon in a murk of gravy-colored smoke. I expected the bluffs and breaks of Dinosaur National Monument, my destination, to feel at least as parched as home. Instead, the landscape was a vivid rainbow: the creamy sunset-colored curves of the cliffs, dark-green bursts of piñon and juniper dotting the rocks, white froth of rapids on the jade river, all of it beneath a dome of bright blue sky.
At night, on the sandy beaches of the Green River, we had campfires, which shocked me. Then I remembered that in the Southwest, fire season traditionally peaks in late spring. The monsoon rains come in June and July, greening the willows, and by September it’s perfect camping weather. I looked around and above me, trying to imagine flames climbing these cliffs, overtopping the lip of the canyon, running away across the plateau. I can’t look at a landscape without seeing fire.
Far from the burns of the high Cascades, the desert’s vibrant colors quenched my thirst. That week on the Green River was sweet relief in more ways than one. I felt free, on the river, to fully occupy a different part of myself—the writer part, the version of me that belonged in a world where paying attention and telling about it, as Mary Oliver instructed, not only mattered, but was perhaps the most important thing I could do.
After the river, I drove home via Missoula, where I had a closet full of belongings to
clear out of my grad-school apartment before my subletter took over the lease. In the middle of shoving lamps and end tables and boxes of old notebooks into the back of my Subaru, I got a call from my boyfriend, back in Washington, at his home just west of Stevens Pass. A fire had started early that morning near Skykomish, ten miles away. An east wind was pushing the blaze down valley, fast. Flakes of ash and chunks of embers fell around him as we spoke. He was clearing debris, setting up sprinklers, and loading important possessions into a trailer, poised to evacuate. Was there anything of mine he should make sure to grab?
All at once, the sparkling days on the Green River with my new writer friends receded into a dreamy past. Like everyone who lives in a fire-prone landscape, I carry a constant awareness that my place could be next. I never imagined it would be a westside fire that would first hit home.
The Bolt Creek Fire, as the blaze threatening my home was christened, was an eerie echo of the 2020 Labor Day fires in Washington and Oregon. Same week of the year, same wicked wind driving the fire swiftly down the west slope of the Cascades, toward crowded suburbs and interstates. Same heavy pall lingering too long over Seattle, reminding city dwellers that the border between wild and worldly has always been a flimsy fiction. As climate-caused drought sucks moisture from temperature forests, west-side conflagrations like the Bolt
Creek Fire threaten to become more common.
That week on the Green River, in the rainbow desert, our conversations kept swirling back to the same questions. We talked about how to embrace a world that’s changing. We spoke of the search for a new way to write about landscape, one that is realistic without being pessimistic, that makes room for grief and hope at the same time, that is grounded in love.
“Funny thing about grief,” Ada Limón wrote, “its hold / is so bright and determined like a flame, / like something almost worth living for.” Hearing her read those words on the radio months later, from the safety of a snowy winter, I remembered that surreal week in September when I left a river and went home to a fire.
I remembered the quiet moments from that summer too: a silent, sunny morning sliding down a river that narrowly escaped being drowned by a dam. A sun-baked afternoon searching for seedlings in a burn and finding wolf tracks in the dust instead. I saw them now as the moments when paying attention might turn into a devotion worth living for.
Claire Thompson is a seasonal trail worker for the U.S. Forest Service and an adjunct English teacher at Wenatchee Valley College. She is pursuing an MFA in Nature Writing from Western Colorado University.
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