Sommelier India Aug/Sep Table of Contents

Sommelier INDIA

Issue 4 August – September 2011

For Indians around the world who enjoy the good life

DRINKING HISTORY WITH DHRUV SAWHNEY 32 SUPERMAN SOMMELIERS 22 TERROIR TRUTHS 52 PRODUCTS FOR WINE LOVERS 68

44

VISIT BORDEAUX NOW Restricted-circulation magazine dedicated to wine lovers and the wine trade

40

Contents August-September 2011

64

ON THE GRAPEVINE

32 DRINKING HISTORY

COLUMNS

Dhruv Sawhney shares his experience of a Christie’s dinner paired with 19th century wines exclusively with Sommelier India

4-9 NEWS, NOTES & VIEWS 10 SAY “WHEE!” TO WINE Jug Suraiya casts his quizzical eye at our habit of serving dinner late

12 GRUAUD-LAROSE TASTED Ch’ng Poh Tiong celebrates 180 years of Château Gruaud-Larose

36 A NEW FRONTIER IN AMERICA’S WEST Gaurav Anand tours Washington state and finds a range of pleasing wines

40 THE SANGIOVESE STORY

14 SMALL BUT SUPERB

Sommelier India tastes Sangiovese, which today is a far cry from what it once was.

Harshal Shah tells the story

Steven Spurrier rates the 2010 vintage of German wines very high

44 BORDEAUX REMINISCENCES

18 THE NAME OF THE ROSÉ Raghu Bahadur on the outlandish names – and label designs – of wines today

20 SOMMELIERS I HAVE KNOWN

Ronald Rens recounts his early learning experiences in Bordeaux when wine tourism was in its infancy

48 WINE AUCTIONS IN ASIA

52 68 THE TURN OF THE CORKSCREW The humble corkscrew is generally paid scant attention. Eric Asimov gives this indispensible tool its due

70 SCAN, TAP, READ AND SIP Ruma Singh looks at some of the smartphone apps making life simple – and fun – for today’s wine lover

REGULARS/DEPARTMENTS

Even wine experts can be intimidated by bossy sommeliers writes Jancis Robinson

With the wine auction market taking off in Hong Kong, Brian Freedman reports on the direction in which it is heading

FEATURES

52 THE MANY MEANINGS OF TERROIR

Carol Wright introduces Gerard Basset, the Best Sommelier in the World

Seasoned wine-journalist David Cobbold uncovers some of the mystery around the enigmatic concept of terroir

26 SOMMELIER SPEAK

58 THE PERSONALITY BEHIND THE LABEL

Interviewed by Reva K Singh, Kavita Faiella says she loves her job as a sommelier, working in great restaurants

Michèle Shah offers an insight into the wealth of character behind some of the wines that we enjoy from Tuscany

28 RAJAT PARR, SUPERSTAR

64 WINE, SUNSHINE AND SMILES

79 GLOSSARY

Sommelier, author and wine producer, Rajat Parr tells Marisa D’Vari the secret of his success

On a visit to Melbourne, Alok Chandra finds lots to be happy about and not least, the quality of Victoria’s food and wine

Wine terms used in this issue explained

22 SOMMELIER PAR EXCELLENCE

Cover: Château Lafite Rothschild

` 150

72 CHEF’S TABLE

Executive Chef Sandip Narang of the Taj West End, Bangalore, discusses food and wine with Ruma Singh

75 RESTAURANTS FOR WINE LOVERS This issue’s picks: The Table in Mumbai, Pink Poppadom in Bangalore and Baan Tao in Pune

78 WINE CLINIC Your wine questions answered

80 SI DIRECTORY

Publisher, editor and owner: Reva K Singh. Co-publisher Shiv B Singh. Copy editor: Bunny Suraiya. Executive Assistant: Aienla Ozukum. Creative Director: Peali Dutta Gupta. Design: Shamik Kundu. Layout artist: TMJ. Printed at EIH Ltd. 7, Sham Nath Marg, Delhi - 110054. Sommelier India is a trade bi-monthly privately produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110 024, India. Tel: +91 11 2433 1013. E-mail: info@indianwinemagazine.com. Web: www.sommelierindia.com.

For restricted circulation only. The views expressed in this publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the publishers.

Subscription price: `1300 two years (12 copies) and `1500 three years (18 copies); international $56 two years (12 copies) and $82 three years (18 copies) without postage. Cover price (single copy) `150.

Editor’s Note

Readers Write

Unforgettable wine dinners

D

uring Bordeaux’s Vinexpo this June, I enjoyed one of my best wine and dine experiences. Traditionally hosted by a First Growth, the dinner held by the Conseil des Grand Crus Classés en 1855 to welcome the international press to Vinexpo was at Château HautBrion this year. And what a grand affair it was. The setting, the people, the Michelin-star food and, of course, the superlative wines defy description. It was a pleasure and a privilege to be seated with so many distinguished members of the wine fraternity as dinner companions. The dinner invitation was from HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg, the owner of Château Haut-Brion.

The top châteaux in Bordeaux certainly know how to look after their visitors.

This black-tie dinner is one of the most prestigious of the many parties held in Bordeaux during Vinexpo. In previous years, there have been celebrations on a similar scale at Château Margaux, Château d’Yquem, Château Mouton Rothschild and, at the last Vinexpo, Château Lafite Rothschild. But such hospitality has not always been the norm. On his first visit to Bordeaux over 25 years ago, Ronald Rens recalls a somewhat frosty welcome (page 44). But wine tourism has come a long way since then, and the time to visit is now.

Dhruv Sawhney, one of the few Indians who can be called a true wine connoisseur and savant, was recently invited to an exclusive dinner with 19th century wines by Christies. “Dhruv, write it down!” I urged, when he told me about the occasion. “This is an experience that must be shared.” I’m happy to say he was finally persuaded. Read his account of this unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience, “Drinking History”, on page 32.

Other highlights of the issue include a special section on sommeliers and a piece on corkscrews by Eric Asimov, the first of regular articles by the popular New York Times wine writer. Now that’s a treat to look forward to …

As I sign off, I hope all Sommelier India readers are saying “whee” to wine! If you don’t know what that means, read Jug Suraiya on page 10. Remember, many a truth is spoken in jest! Y

Successful business enterprise After having had a good look at some recent issues of Sommelier India, I’m extremely impressed by the high level of excellence that you’ve achieved with the magazine. In my opinion, the magazine is of international quality and stature. The design and layout is top class as is the quality of the paper, the printing and the general get-up. The photographs are absolutely superb. The articles are great.

I am neither an expert on wines nor an authority on rating upmarket magazines, but as a discerning, lay reader, I wish to compliment you on your efforts.

Over the years, each issue of the magazine has expanded and the number of copies being distributed every month has also grown substantially. These are prime indicators of a successful business enterprise which is continually growing. Your years of hard work are beginning to show and I’m sure the PDJD]LQH ZLOO Á RXULVK $OO WKLV HIIRUW will also help build the local wine industry and in a modest way provide a boost to tourism in the country.

Michael Albuquerque, New Delhi Team Sommelier India thanks you for your encouraging comments. We have hitched our wagon to a star and there’s still a long way to go. ED

Voting for SI I have been a subscriber since inception of Sommelier India and would like to congratulate you on an excellent job. The magazine has evolved into a world class quality publication.

You have my vote. Is there any possibility to get a digital iPad version for current subscribers?

Shatul Shah, Sent from my iPad You will soon be able to download Sommelier India on the iPad. Meanwhile, read the digital version of the June-July 2011edition (available free for subscribers) on your computer. Go to: http:// issuu.com/sommelierindia/docs/magazine_for_mail

Courier or Indian Post?

E-mail: rks@indianwinemagazine.com

2 Sommelier INDIA

Please can you do something about your delivery system, whether courier or post. My copy gets lost sometimes. I don’t know why anyone would want to steal it. It’s not a Bollywood magazine!

Bina Rai, via email