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Contents Volume 7: Issue 1, 2012
` 150
19
ON THE GRAPEVINE
4 NEWS, NOTES & TRENDS
he is looking forward to being part of the growing wine culture in India
COLUMNS
30 GREENBOTTLE COMING OFF THE WALL…
8 EXTRAORDINARY WINE SURVEYS Confronted by esoteric wine surveys, Raghu Bahadur decides that the job of a wine researcher will suit him very well
But is it really an off-the-wall idea? Carol Wright figures out the carbon footprint of the paper-based Greenbottle
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32 UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN 10 WINE’S LABOUR LOST The scarcity of vineyard workers is a growing challenge around the world, writes Jancis Robinson
12 LOOKING BACK, LOOKING FORWARD Don Weaver, Director of Harlan Estate, describes the winery’s lofty mission
Agricola Querciabella is committed to propagating the tenets of biodynamic viticulture. Ruma Singh reports
and Garen Staglin who are giving back to society through philanthropy while producing some of the world’s finest wine
34 BEST OF TIMES AND THE WORST OF TIMES
56 DOURO’S PORT OF CALL
Despite high prices, Eric Asimov says we live in the best time ever to be wine lovers
Bob Ecker visits the Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site and producer of fine Port
36 WINES AT AUCTION 14 A CHAMPAGNE GREAT Ch’ng Poh Tiong travels to Champagne to visit one of the finest houses of this grand tradition of winemaking
40 NOTES FROM BURGUNDY
18 HIGH EXPECTATIONS
Côte d’Or at the heart of Burgundy is heaven for wine lovers. Gaurav Anand visits some of the region’s smaller estates
Alok Chandra reviews the Indian wine scene and finds reason to be optimistic
44 CALIFORNIA CULT WINES
FEATURES
Cover image: The Modern, MOMA, New York
Priyanka Dhar on Hospices de Beaune’s latest auction of great Burgundies
21 10 NOTEWORTHY WINES Harshal Shah describes ten wines tasted by the Sommelier India Tasting Panel in 2011
Brian Freedman argues that the big, rich wines of Napa Valley are largely the gift of their unique terroir
60 CELLARS FOR SERIOUS WINE BUYERS Rahoul B Singh answers FAQs on cellar management for Sommelier India readers
SPECIAL SECTION
62 THE CHANGING RESTAURANT SCENE Looking back at 2011, Vir Sanghvi offers a roundup of restaurant trends and what to expect in the coming year
66 MAKING THE LIST David Cobbold takes us through the finer points of a good list
48 THE FAME AND GLORY OF TOKAJI WINES 22 VIVA VALLONNÉ Shailendra Pai founder of Vallonné Vineyards speaks to Brinda Gill
The vineyards and cellars of Tokaj have regained their old reputation, writes Péter Csizmadia-Honigh
25 DIRECTING WINES TO INDIA
52 BLENDING WINE WITH GREAT CAUSES
Simon McMurtrie tells Brinda Gill that
Soni Sangwan catches up with Shari
70 RESTAURANTS FOR WINE LOVERS 80 CHEF’S TABLE Ruchira Hoon on Pankaj Sharma, winner Bocuse d’Or India and Marryam Reshii in conversation with Mohd Irfan
Publisher, editor and owner: Reva K Singh. Co-publisher Shiv B Singh. Copy editor: Bunny Suraiya. Executive Assistant: Aienla Ozukum. Creative Director: Peali Dutta Gupta. Design: Shamik Kundu. Layout artist: TMJ. Printed at EIH Ltd. 7, Sham Nath Marg, Delhi - 110054. Sommelier India is a trade bi-monthly privately produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110 024, India. Tel: +91 11 2433 1013. E-mail: info@indianwinemagazine.com. Web: www.sommelierindia.com. For restricted circulation only. The views expressed in this publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Subscription price: `1500 two years (12 copies) and `1700 three years (18 copies); international $56 two years (12 copies) and $82 three years (18 copies) without postage. Cover price (single copy) `150.