Sommelier INDIA
For Indians around the world who enjoy the good life
May/June 2010. Issue 3 Rs. 130
BORDEAUX
Capital City of Wine
3FTUSJDUFE DJSDVMBUJPO NBHB[JOF EFEJDBUFE UP XJOF MPWFST BOE UIF XJOF USBEF XXX TPNNFMJFSJOEJB DPN
Editorโ s Note
Wine in the Time of Heat and Dust
5
IF NFSSZ NPOUI PG .BZ JT IFSF BOE JU T UIF UJNF PG ZFBS XIFO QSJWJMFHFE *OEJBOT USBEJUJPOBMMZ EFDBNQFE UP UIF IJMMT UP FTDBQF UIF UFSSJCMF IFBU PG UIF QMBJOT *O UIF EBZT CFGPSF VOJWFSTBM BJS DPOEJUJPOJOH UIFSF XBT OP DIBODF XIBUTPFWFS PG B CPUUMF PG XJOF CFJOH PQFOFE BMPOH XJUI POF T EBJMZ GBSF PG NVUUPO DVSSZ EBM TVC[J BOE SPUJ 0I OP JU XBT DPPMJOH OPO BMDPIPMJD ESJOLT MJLF DIJMMFE DIBBT XIFZ MBTTJ BOE OJNCV QBOJ PS GSVJU KVJDFT MJLF QBOOB B EFMJDJPVTMZ UBSU FYUSBDU PG TPVS NBOHPFT UIBU XF EPXOFE CZ UIF KVHGVM *G ZPVS GPMLT XFSF TVGm DJFOUMZ FNBODJQBUFE JU XBT DIPUB QFHT PG 4DPUDI UIBU PVS GBUIFST ESBOL XIJMF PVS NPUIFST TJQQFE 4IFSSZ )PX PVS QBUUFSOT PG DPOTVNQUJPO IBWF DIBOHFE *U T UIF XJOF DIJMMFS XF WJTJU OPX BOE SFBDI GPS B 3PTยน PS DSJTQ XIJUF XJOF UP TMBLF PVS UIJSTU " QMFBTJOH DIBMMFOHF GPS NF XJUI FBDI JTTVF JT UIF QBJSJOH PG XSJUFS XJUI TVCKFDU *O UIJT JTTVF ZPV MM SFBE 1BSJT CBTFE %BWJE $PCCPME PO CJPEZOBNJD XJOF .JDIยผ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โ
46
Contents May-June 2010
5
ON THE GRAPEVINE
/FXT OPUFT BOE WJFXT GPS UIF XJOF CVGG
7
SAVING SERIOUSLY OLD VINES
+BODJT 3PCJOTPO GVTTFT PWFS UIF MPTT PG B WBMVBCMF WJUJDVMUVSBM IFSJUBHF
9
WHAT IS YOUR WINE COMFORT ZONE?
,BWJUB 'BJFMMB EJTDVTTFT DPNGPSU XJOF BOE BTLT JG ZPV UPP IBWF B XJOF DPNGPSU [POF
10
INDULGING ONESELF WITH CHEESE AND WINE
.BHBOEFFQ 4JOHI BEWJTFT VT PO UIF CFTU XBZ UP QBJS XJOF XJUI DIFFTF
11
PROBLEMS OF PLENTY
3BHIV #BIBEVS PO UIF TUPSJOH PG XJOF CPVHIU BT BO JOWFTUNFOU BOE UIF QSPCMFN PG VOmOJTIFE CPUUMFT PG XJOF
13
OPENING TIME
$BSPM 8SJHIU EFTDSJCFTIPX IVNBO JOHFOVJUZ IBT CFFO UFTUFE UP HFU BU UIF USFBTVSF JOTJEF
16
RAISING A TOAST
"NSJU %IJMMPO UBMLT UP +FBO #FSDIPO TDJPO PG UIF GBNPVT $IBOEPO GBNJMZ
18
WINE AT SEA
& NBJM SLT!JOEJBOXJOFNBHB[JOF DPN
3BKFTI 4XBSOBLBS UBLFT B MPPL BU UIF XJOFT MJTU PG $VOBSE T MVYVSZ MJOFST o BO FDMFDUJD NJY GSPN BSPVOE UIF XPSME
Rs. 130
40 20
SPARKLERS FROM THE LOIRE
,JTIPSF *ZFOHBS XBYFT MZSJDBM PWFS QSFNJVN #PVWFU -BEVCBZ XJOFT
21
46 BIODYNAMICS IN THE VINEYARD "MUIPVHI DPOUSPWFSTJBM CJPEZOBNJD QSJODJQMFT PGUFO XPSL XFMM GPS XJOF %BWJE $PCCPME UBLFT B DPNNPOTFOTF WJFX
SI PANEL TASTING
50
24
.JDIFMF 4IBI WJTJUT /FX ;FBMBOE T 4PVUI *TMBOE GPS JUT XPOEFSGVM XJOFT BOE EJTDPWFST UIBU UIFSF T NPSF UP FOKPZ
(SVOFS 7FMUMJOFS JT TQFBSIFBEJOH "VTUSJB T CJE UP CF UBLFO TFSJPVTMZ BT B QSPEVDFS PG mOF XJOF )BSTIBM 4IBI FMBCPSBUFT
A LONG VIEW OF THE INDIAN WINE INDUSTRY
"MPL $IBOESB DPOTJEFST UIF QBTU QSFTFOU BOE GVUVSF QSPTQFDUT PG PVS XJOF JOEVTUSZ
26
FOR THE LOVE OF WINE
'PVOEFS BOE $&0 PG 7BMMPOOยน 7JOFZBSET 4IBJMFOESB 1BJ TIBSFT IJT WJFXT XJUI #SJOEB (JMM
30
BORDEAUX โ THE CAPITAL CITY OF WINE $BSPM 8SJHIU WJTJUT #PSEFBVY B DJUZ BMNPTU FRVBMMZ SFOPXOFE GPS JUT HBTUSPOPNJDBM FYQFSUJTF BT GPS JUT XJOF
36
IN THE SPOTLIGHT WASHINGTON AND OREGON
"NFSJDB T 1BDJmD /PSUIXFTU BMMPXT OFX XJOFNBLFST UP DSFBUF UIFJS PXO EFTUJOJFT #SJBO 'SFFENBO SFQPSUT
40
TERRIFIC TORBRECK
%BWJE 1PXFMM UBLFT IJT QSPEVDUJPO BOE QSJDFT UP OFX IFJHIUT JO KVTU ZFBST 4UVBSU (FPSHF SFTQFDUT UIF NBO BOE MJLFT IJT XJOF
ALL THIS AND HEAVEN TOO
57 TALKING TO MIGUEL TORRES 4VOFFUB 4PEIJ ,BOHB DBVHIU VQ XJUI .JHVFM 5PSSFT JO .VNCBJ PO IJT XBZ UP UIF CBDLXBUFST PG ,FSBMB
62 AROMA TUTORIAL %BWJE $PCCPME FYQMBJOT XIZ UIF TBNF XJOF TNFMMT EJGGFSFOUMZ UP EJGGFSFOU QFPQMF
64 RESTAURANTS THAT LOVE WINE 4NJUB *ZFOHBS FOKPZT MBLFGSPOU EJOJOH BU 6EBJQVS T -FFMB ,FNQJOTLJ XIJMF +BWFE (BZB SFWJTJUT 1SFHP BU UIF 5BK JO $IFOOBJ
66 WINELOVERโ S COOKBOOK 5PNBUP TBVDF XJUI XJOF JT WFSTBUJMF BOE EFMJDJPVT XSJUFT 1SFBI /BSBOH
67 PARTNERS IN WINE $IFG "OVQBN #BOFSKFF JT UIF QSFTJEJOH HFOJVT BU i3BTPJ CZ 4VOFFUw JO (FOFWB
1VCMJTIFS FEJUPS BOE PXOFS 3FWB , 4JOHI $P QVCMJTIFS 4IJW # 4JOHI $PQZ FEJUPS #VOOZ 4VSBJZB &YFDVUJWF "TTJTUBOU "JFOMB 0[VLVN $SFBUJWF %JSFDUPS 1FBMJ %VUUB (VQUB %FTJHO 4IBNJL ,VOEV -BZPVU BSUJTU 5.+ 1SJOUFE BU &*) -UE 4IBN /BUI .BSH %FMIJ 4PNNFMJFS *OEJB JT B USBEF CJ NPOUIMZ QSJWBUFMZ QSPEVDFE CZ $.* $POTPMJEBUFE .FEJB *OU $ %FGFODF $PMPOZ /FX %FMIJ *OEJB 5FM & NBJM JOGP!JOEJBOXJOFNBHB[JOF DPN 8FC XXX TPNNFMJFSJOEJB DPN 'PS SFTUSJDUFE DJSDVMBUJPO POMZ 5IF WJFXT FYQSFTTFE JO UIJT QVCMJDBUJPO BSF UIF XSJUFST PXO BOE OPU OFDFTTBSJMZ UIPTF PG UIF QVCMJTIFST 4VCTDSJQUJPO QSJDF 3T GPS UXP ZFBST BOE 3T GPS UISFF ZFBST JOUFSOBUJPOBM GPS UXP ZFBST BOE GPS UISFF ZFBST