Sommelier India Issue 6 of 2009 by Sommelier India

Sommelier INDIA For Indians around the world who enjoy wine and the good life

THE WINE MAGAZINE

www.sommelierindia.com

Issue 6 November/December 2009

IF YOU DON’T TELL You Can’t Sell 10

SAUTERNES Going Sweet on Asia 28

LET YOUR PALATE Be Your Guide 47

WHICH WINE GLASS? Choosing the best glass 54 Sommelier (sawm-uhl-yeah): French for wine steward – your friendly guide to the world of wine Restricted circulation magazine dedicated to wine lovers and the wine trade

TASTE CULTURE

AUSTRIAN WINE Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

Contents November-December 2009 Rs. 100

ON THE GRAPEVINE News, notes and views for the wine buff

WHAT’S A MEDAL WORTH? David Cobbold on wine competitions and their value in a young wine market

THE LURE OF THE LANGUEDOC Independent wine producers have brought enormous vitality to the region. Rosemary George meets some newcomers

THE CHANGING STYLES OF WINE Following a wine tasting at the AGM of the Institute of Masters of Wine, Jancis Robinson comments on changing trends

HOW GOOD ARE INDIAN WINES? The Sommelier India tasting panel recommends Indian red wines

MATERNAL INSTINCTS Kavita Faiella offers a charmingly unique perspective on the emotional bonding between winemakers and their wines

DARING TO BE DIFFERENT Sonal Holland interviews Ranjit Dhuru, the chairman and CEO of Château dʼOri wines

GOING SWEET ON ASIA Berenice Lurton believes that sweet French wines and Asian food are made for each other, Harshal Shah agrees enthusiastically

IF YOU DON’T TELL, YOU CAN’T SELL How are wines promoted in a recession hit economy? Raghu Bahadur counts the ways

12 THE WINE LIFE Poster art from Bordeaux A guide to the good life – places, products, drink, gourmet, art and style.

14 CHEESE AND WINE IN INDIA Eating cheese with wine is a new trend in our wine drinking culture. By Habib Rehman

33 NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Girish Mhatre, New York based businessman, launched three locally made wines in Maharashtra this winter. Brinda Gill meets him in Pune

36 WINE LABELS: A NEW ART FORM Propelled by New World wineries, the wine label is now becoming an eyecatching, miniaturised work of art says Carol Wright

47 LET YOUR PALATE BE YOUR GUIDE Matching and pairing wine with food is an art rather than a science, says Alejandro Ortiz as he explains the basic concepts

50 WINE TASTING WITH THE EAGLES Michele Shah tastes some of Italyʼs top wine brands at an exhilarating altitude

54 WINE PRIMER CHOOSING WINE GLASSES Much of the pleasure of drinking wine is the kind of glass you use

55 RESTAURANTS THAT LOVE WINE Stone Water Grill, At one with the Elements in Pune and Eating Italian at Prego in Chennai

PARTNERS IN WINE Lamb Shank Osso Bucco, with Craggy Range Pinot Noir from New Zealand at the Leela Kempinski, Mumbai

WINE CELLAR IN THE BUSH The new Bilila Lodge Kempinski in Tanzania has an enviable wine cellar out in the bush, notes Carol Wright

GOURMETS OF INDIA, REJOICE! For many Indians, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs has only been a name. Ruma Singh describes the Chaîneʼs debut in India

SI LISTINGS A directory of wine producers, importers and retailers

Publisher, editor and owner: Reva K Singh. Co-publisher Shiv B Singh. Copy editor: Bunny Suraiya. Executive Assistant: Aienla Ozukum. Layout artist: TMJ. Printed at EIH Ltd. 7, Sham Nath Marg, Delhi - 110054. Sommelier India is a trade bi-monthly privately produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110 024, India. Tel: +91 11 2433 1013. E-mail: info@indianwinemagazine.com. Web: www.sommelierindia.com. For restricted circulation only. The views expressed in this publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Subscription price: Rs. 1000 for two years and Rs. 1300 for three years; international $56 for two years and $82 for three years. Registration No. DELENG/2006/16535.

Sommelier INDIA 1

FROM THE editor

nnumerable wine and food shows are taking place in Delhi and Mumbai in the next few months, the first of which is the International Food & Drink Expo India 2009 at Pragati Maidan in Delhi. Businesses wishing to position themselves in the forefront of the fast growing Indian market will exhibit their products to India’s food, drink and hospitality professionals, hoping to interact with serious business partners, develop relationships and, most importantly, sign on new business. This will be followed by IFOWS and Bev India in Delhi and Taste in Mumbai, all in January. How much actual business is enacted through these initiatives is uncertain but they do present an opportunity to increase knowledge, create awareness and exchange information. What’s more, the Shows indicate that the level of interest in India is still high. India’s population of over 1.14 billion is said to have one of the largest consumer markets in the world, with increased disposable income among the middle classes, an upwardly mobile younger generation and more consumers demanding high quality international and local produce. Some in the wine trade, however, are sometimes pessimistic about the future, considering India’s crippling taxation and logistical problems. Our gastronomic scene is certainly becoming livelier as we see more speciality restaurants opening that love wine, and discover talented chefs through our Partners in Wine series. Another barometer of this trend is the number of wine societies and gourmet clubs that are flourishing in the main cities, including l d the h entry of the international gastronomic society, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, which was launched in Bangalore last year. Just as this issue was going to press, I travelled to Dubai to meet world renowned chef, Nobu Matsuhisa at Atlantis, The Palm, and what a pleasure it turned out to be! Nobu is affable and approachable and it’s easy to see that he has a genuine love for cooking, which he shares through his exceptional cuisine and a strong desire to serve customers meals that they will enjoy and never forget. This magazine is for people who care for the good things in life, for amateurs with a love for wine and serious wine enthusiasts, alike. In case we forget and lose our focus, our publishing mission is to foster the wine drinking culture in India and to educate, inform and delight our readers with good reading in every issue. I hope this edition comes up to expectation!

Notes from my little Black Book Unforgettable NOBU in Dubai For cutting edge Japanese nouvelle cuisine with Peruvian accents, reserve a table at Nobu at Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai. Nobu’s signature dishes as well as a few surprise vegetarian ones are exceptional, paired with wine or fine sakés. When I was there, the tightly packed restaurant was buzzing with excited diners enjoying the food and fautless service. Reservations: +04 426 2626

E-mail: rks@indianwinemagazine.com

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READERS WRITE Bottle luck with potluck

Many of us in India are discovering and learning about wine. Not so long ago, I remember it was fun to get together with close friends at short notice for a potluck dinner. Each one of us brought along a dish we were particularly proud of. Well, imagine discovering a great new wine and taking along a bottle the next time, as bottle luck! BYOB or bring your own bottle is very popular overseas. In fact many restaurants permit guests to bring their own bottles for consumption with their meal. Some charge a minimal corkage. For instance the 1707 Wine Bar at Fortnum and Mason, London, named in honour of the year Fortnum was founded, permits guests to order a bottle from their wine department with a ÂŁ10 corkage fee per full bottle and just ÂŁ5 for a half bottle (375 ml). Many wine clubs and societies around the world also function on this principle. On a recent visit to Boston I was delighted to learn that our host belonged to a wine club, which met six times a year. Each member hosted a dinner by turn and everyone brought along a bottle. Initially, they brought the most famous or expensive bottle of wine they had, but now each one chooses a bottle which is in some way unique, such as a boutique wine from an unknown region. I was nervous when he informed me that he would take the bottle I had presented him to his next club meeting as the wine chosen by an Indian. I wonder how the wine fared and what they thought of my choice! At a more serious level some wine societies conduct blind tastings where each person brings along a bottle wrapped in foil so that not even the shape of the bottle can give a clue about the origin of the wine, as bottles from certain regions are distinct. You

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are the undisputed expert if you can tell the grape, region, winery and perhaps the vintage from tasting the wine blind. Rajiv Kehr, Gurgaon

Long-term opportunity

Having just found your site, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to thank you for a clear and concise summary of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going on in the Indian wine market, at least as far as international brands are concerned. Despite the current challenges, which are common to most markets, the trend in wine consumption is still upwards. So for brands that understand and can accept that the Indian market is a medium to long-term opportunity, it remains very attractive. Jiles Halling, via email

Gaja Retrospective

I am writing to thank you for the amazing article in Sommelier India September/October 2009, by MichĂ¨le Shah and for the large visibility that you devoted to the event. I received many phone calls and emails from friendsâ&#x20AC;Śand not only from India! Many people read the article and complimented us. Thank you very much. I wish Sommelier India continues like this, always successful and better! Gaia Gaja, via email Piedmont, Italy

Wine-win situation

It is very difficult to maintain the quality of any product. Not only have you kept up the impeccably high standards of Sommelier India, it seems to be getting better, like vintage wine! The September-October issue is very good both in terms of aesthetics and content. It is a wine-win situation. In your editorial you made a reference to two new books published on wines. It will be interesting and useful if Sommelier India would consider publishing a well researched

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PLEASURES OF THE TUSCAN TABL E PAGE 36

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book on the Indian wine industry, from conception till date. Prem Luthra, Kolkata

Pseudo wine lovers

How ironic that the supposed wine enthusiasts from the various wine clubs only indulge in drinking wine at club events. Very rarely does one see them paying for their wine and appreciating it. Hello... if you pay, the chances are high that you will appreciate wine more... The poor wine sellers and producers supply the wine in the hope that someone will buy their wine. I am certain they wish that less people would become members, knowing well that the more people that join these clubs the less they are likely to buy wine. Real enthusiasts pay for the various wine dinners that some good hotels organize in Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi and also Chennai Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m told. Wine clubs have been reduced to networking clubs and growing pseudo-ism about wine. You become a member, learn a few terms that can describe the aroma, body, taste, etc, of wines to be part of an elite networking club merely sipping wine for effect when most members would rather get drunk on cheap whisky or rum. I am a wine enthusiast and not a member of any club. I buy my own wine and enjoy it... and am amazed at so much pretense for such a lovely beverage.. George Kuru, via email If you want to express your views about the world of wine or have any experiences you want to share, send an email to info@ sommelierindia.com

Sommelier INDIA 3

ON THE grapevine

News, notes and views for the wine buff Bulletin from a Sommelier on the Move A round-up of recent gastro-vinous adventures

ello folks. I would apologise for my absence from these pages but even I don’t know where all I have been travelling. In fact, I only recently realised how limited my living space had become, confined to the size resembling, more or less, a cabin bag. By just changing my suitcase, I manage to match the euphoria of discovering a whole new world. Sad, I know. But with Delhi’s stupid excise policy making wines still pricier, I don’t once regret being away. Sure, I miss my folks and friends but a Pol Roger is a great way to drown sorrows while globe-trotting. A reason to rejoice was the eclectic and heady rum tasting I was a part of in Singapore. Zacapa, the famed and popular candidate, came second to Angostura in this blind tasting. On the food front, Taste Paradise has to be the most iconic nouveau-Chinese restaurant I have tried at the recently opened ION mall in Singapore. The mall also has the boutique for VomFass Concessions which is the ultimate place to stock up on prized fruit vinegars and olive oils, and also whiskies. I also managed a peek into the wine selection process of Singapore

Airlines. Now these guys sure know how to put the meticulous into method. So precise a procedure is it, choosing wines to accompany the meals on board. They were the first to have introduced Bordeaux Second Growth wines on board and I can’t wait for my next SIA trip just to sip some yummy Cos D’Estournel. Else, head to the Club Street area where a small bar called Carillon de Angelus boasts of one of the best and cheapest wine lists in the city. No excuse there not to drink. Cocktails, too, are big, and places like the Terrace Bar at the Esplanade and the Klee specialise in two things: fresh fruit juice cocktails and reinvented classics and innovations that go well beyond menus. Before that, I gastro-hopped through Czech, Slovak, Hungary and Austria and I can’t for the life of me figure out why (a) people go to Paris looking for romance or (b) Western Europe, in general, looking for good affordable wine. These other countries are where all the good stuff is. Irsai Oliver is my new favourite grape, sitting besides Grüner Veltliner. Tokai, too, has aroused new zeal in

me. Rieslings in this part of the world also make for some very differently aromatic wines. In fact, I didn’t miss Chardonnay at all. The reds weren’t all there but the lighter styles, especially with Pinot Noir, did show promise. Meals were hearty, scrumptious and super-cheap, and the beer pleasingly even cheaper. Finally, all this was summed up with a meal at Meinl, one of the most iconic restaurants of Vienna. A lovely place to indulge in classic cuisine and also food shopping as they were originally a luxury grocery store. The Loimer GruVee, a wine with which I chose to ring in my birthday, is a wine to be respected, revered and drunk in silent contemplation. I am supposed to pack my bags again soon for Europe, and who knows where, but I will be back for sure for the Sommelier India Wine Competition. Before I go, two final words for wine bars: Foot Reflexology. It has become quite the in thing and my vote goes to the person who starts a wine bar with simultaneous foot massages. It’s not a new concept. – Magandeep Singh

20 glasses of wine in one capsule? What will they think of next…

t’s a widely accepted fact that resveratrol, the key ingredient found in the tannins of red wine has tremendous health benefits. Its importance was highlighted with the publicity surrounding the historic ‘French paradox’ of long life associated with a Mediterranean diet and the drinking of wine. Until now resveratrol has only been available as a component of food. Now Pinnacle (a division of Lupin Pharmaceuticals) has come out with a novel cardio tonic, called Harty, 4 Sommelier INDIA

YOUR HEALTH WITH WINE

that offers a concentrated dose of resveratrol without the calories. One capsule contains as much resveratrol as 20 glasses of wine. Harty is all natural, with grape seed extract, omega fatty acids and trace minerals like zinc, selenium and chromium along with anti-inflammatory, anti-platelet and anti-atherosclerotic properties, say the manufacturers. The pleasure derived from wine which also has health benefits, however, is missing. – Suneeta Sodhi Kanga

Champagne flutes with verve

tyle and innovative design are the hallmarks of these champagne flutes from Veuve Clicquot. Each flute is a unique, hand-painted work of art made from mouth-blown glass. The Champagne itself is made from grapes grown in several different crus of Veuve Clicquot’s splendid vineyards. Pinot Noir grapes form the backbone of the blend giving the wine the structure typical of Veuve Clicquot, with a small proportion of Pinot Meunier grapes and Chardonnay adding the elegance and finesse so integral to a perfectly balanced wine. The Rosé Champagne, typically Cliquot, is soft, well-rounded and fresh without losing intensity and power. — RKS

From the Editor’s Bookshelf: Periodicals for the serious wine lover

lthough very different in style and content, two wine magazines that I look forward to and retain as an integral part of my wine library are TONG and The World of Fine Wine. TONG is quite new with only two issues out, each dedicated to a single topic and written by wine experts from around the world. The first was on Sauvignon Blanc and the second on Terroir. Edited and published by Filip Verheyden in Belgium, this specialist quarterly with no advertisements targets the reader with a serious interest in the subject of wine. For

more information, visit www.tongmagazine.com. The World of Fine Wine is not so new, but equally unique. A beautifully produced glossy magazine that feels more like a book, The World of Fine Wine has over 200 pages and very little advertising. Edited by Neil Beckett and written by distinguished contributors and specialists who know their subject well, the magazine offers the reader a rich diet of stimulating information with wide ranging, in depth articles on wine, four times a year. Visit www.finewinemag.com for subscription details. — RKS

Sommelier INDIA 5

COLUMN

The changing styles of wine Following a tasting focusing on German Spätburgunder at the AGM of the Institute of Masters of Wine, Jancis Robinson comments on changing trends ot many winemakers would decide to demonstrate what they had done wrong to a group of Masters of Wine and (probably even more unforgiving) MW students. But that’s exactly what Dr Joachim Heger travelled from the southern German region of Baden to the historic Vintners’ Hall in the City of London to do last September. It has become traditional for the Annual General Meeting of the Institute of Masters of Wine to be preceded by an educational tasting. This year the theme was one unfamiliar to most Masters of Wine – German Spätburgunder or Pinot Noir – a wine style that has changed out of all recognition in the last 10 years or so. Now that Germany is producing red wines that really are red as opposed to greyish pink, and smell ripe and fresh rather than sweet and tinged with rot, Spätburgunders have become some of the most popular wines of all in Germany – so popular that even though there is no shortage of wine (Germany produces almost as much still Pinot Noir as France does), both demand and prices are too high to encourage much export. But some of Germany’s most admired Spätburgunder producers – Meyer-Näkel of the Ahr, Kloster Eberbach of the Rheingau, Fürst of Franken and Bernhard Huber and Dr Heger of Baden – brought over some great examples to titillate the assembled palates in London. Most of the 20 examples shown were from outstanding vintages such as 2007, 2005 and 2003 – although Dieter Greiner of Kloster Eberbach brought a fabulous 1959 from this state-owned enterprise’s historic Höllenberg vineyard in Assmannshausen. Joachim Heger, however, dutifully followed instructions to the letter: to make his tasting as educational as possible.

6 Sommelier INDIA

He therefore showed us not just the highly successful 2005 vintage of the top bottling from his Ihringer Winklerberg vineyard and the transitional 2001 vintage, but also a 1999 (that was probably quite flashy in youth but had already lost its fruit) and the really dried out 1993. He admitted that in the 1990s, at the start of the Spätburgunder renaissance, he and most German winemakers tended to pick too late, a hangover from Germany’s worship of high must weights for their white wines. They also tended to over-extract what was in the fruit, and used oak with a heavy hand, too much like a seasoning than a vessel with useful physical properties. “We used hi-tech methods then. Today, we use lo-tech methods, more or less like the 1959 was made.” The other winemakers nodded in agreement. This was a particularly brave, public and dramatic demonstration of the way in which wines, winemaking styles and techniques have been evolving in recent years for this particular combination of variety and country, and Dr Heger was unusual in being so explicit in describing what he believed he had done wrong. He reminded me of the pioneer, if not the leading light, of the Agly Valley in Roussillon, a far southwest corner of France that I believe is currently one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe. When I last visited Gérard Gauby of Domaine Gauby in the summer of 2005, he had already renounced his late 1990s ‘bodybuilder’ style of wines and was thrilled to be able, thanks to following biodynamic farming techniques, to pick his grapes much earlier but chock full of flavour at under 13% potential alcohol as opposed to nearly 15%. I have recently particularly enjoyed his top red, Muntada (though Ilike his whites even more) from both

the 2002 and 2003 vintages. Even at six or seven years old, they are wines with real freshness, transparency, energy and character, whereas I see from the notes I took in 2005 on the thick, heavy 1998 Muntada that it was already starting to dry out and smelt burnt and tarry. ut even higher profile winemakers admit that their styles have been changing. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhône Valley, Australia, Portugal – and the Agly Valley – admits that there’s been an evolution in the style of his wines that is evident to ‘people who know my wine over time’. I’d say his wines are definitely more fluid and graceful than they were and, perhaps also because of biodynamics (although I would not want to draw a necessary relationship here), seem to show more vitality and potential for ageing. En passant, I tasted Chapoutier’s white Ermitage, Cuvée de l’Orée 2004 next to Domaine de la Romanée Conti’s 2004 Montrachet in double magnum the other day, and I have to say that it was the white Hermitage that kept me enthralled until the end of meal. Incidentally, at the tasting at which Chapoutier admitted to an evolution in wine style, a fellow wine writer asked him about the alcohol levels of his wines. This did not go down well. “That’s like asking a woman about her age,” he observed crossly. At the risk of sticking my neck out, I would say that the signs are that the trend towards making ever bigger, more alcoholic wines is either peaking or has peaked, depending on the wine region. High alcohol wines are still common, perhaps inevitable, in parts of Spain and in some famous parts of California and Australia. But subtler wines from cooler sites in all these places seem to be gaining ground. And, I think, perhaps the most dramatic recent trend towards more refinement (in a country not previously known for it) is in Argentina. I have certainly tasted quite a sea-change in the wine styles there recently – from wines that sometimes seemed more like thick oak syrups to very much more sophisticated and refreshing liquids. I asked almost a dozen of the country’s top winemakers to comment on whether they thought their wine styles had evolved and almost to a man they volunteered that their wines were now much fresher and less oak-dominated than they used to be. The reason most of them cited was their greater understanding of the vineyard. Daniel Pi of Trapiche put it particularly clearly. “Over the past 15 years we have changed from ‘corrective enology’ to ‘preventive enology’, then from ‘technological enology, to ‘sensitive enology’, and lately I have gone back from ‘high intervention enology’ to ‘low intervention enology’.” I do believe and (it has to be said) I hope that this is a worldwide phenomenon. Read more at www.JancisRobinson.com and see the Concise World Atlas of Wine, 2009, co-authored with Hugh Johnson.•

Jancis Robinson, OBE, MW, is editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine and wine correspondent of the UK Financial Times

Sommelier INDIA 7

The Sommelier India Wine Competition 19 to 20 November 2009 • Mumbai

SIWC

Sommelier India’s inaugural competition assesses wines produced in India, as well as all imported wines available for consumption in the country. Our prestigious panel of nationally respected wine experts and connoisseurs, listed below, represent some of the best palates in India. The judging will be a blind tasting, under the expert guidance

of the highly respected and award-winning wine judge, author and educator, Steven Spurrier, ensuring that excellence is recognized and rewarded. The Sommelier India Wine Competition in association with The Wine Society of India will be held at ITC Grand Central, Parel, Mumbai, followed by a Gala dinner.

PANEL OF JUDGES

Chairman SIWC

Steven Spurrier is a renowned wine expert and Chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Japan Wine Challenge, the two largest wine competitions in the world and Asia, respectively. He is also Chairman of The Wine Society of India.

Sanjay Menon is the proprietor of Sonary’s, and founder of the KBR School of Wine that runs WSET courses around the country. He has been recognized in Decanter’s bi-annual Power List 2009.

Rahul Akerkar is the MD and Director of Cuisine of deGustibus Hospitality, the owner of Indigo restaurant. Based in Mumbai Akerkar’s Indigo has been recognized as the first Indian restaurant to win the Wine Spectator Award, which it has won every year since 2000.

Alejandro Ortiz is the Global Cellarmaster and Group Food and Beverage Manager for Aman Resorts and has developed wine and spirits programmes at Aman Resorts around the world. He is currently based in Delhi.

Gautam Anand is Vice-President, Hotels Division, ITC, New Delhi. Gautam enjoys the fine cuisine of India and Japan and has had an enduring love affair with Champagne and wine which translated into enhancing ITC Hotels’ wine programme.

Mukund Padmanabhan is the Senior Associate Editor of The Hindu. He oversees the newspaper’s city supplements, writes editorials and a widely read fortnightly wine column. He is a founding member of Terroir, the Madras Wine Club.

David Banford pioneered the introduction of direct marketing of wine in the US with the launch of The Wine Society of America in 1986, which grew to become the largest wine club in the US and floated on the NASDAQ stock exchange in 1991. He is the Director of The Wine Society of India.

Editorial Director of the Hindustan Times and one of India’s leading journalists, Vir Sanghvi is a foodie who loves wine. Highly influential, his Rude Food column in HT’s Sunday magazine, and A Matter of Taste, the TV version on Discovery Travel & Living have made Sanghvi internationally known.

Alok Chandra is an independent wine consultant and a veteran of the Indian alcoholic beverages industry having worked for The UB Group (1982 – 95) and International Distillers India (now Diageo India) as head of the latter’s wine division (1995 – 2000).

Harshal Shah is a sommelier, wine consultant and writer. He also advises wine importers in India as well as wineries outside India, providing market intelligence about the Indian wine market. He is enrolled in the WSET Diploma with a view to entering the Master of Wine programme.

Kavita Faiella is a third level Master Sommelier and the Cellar Master of Hotel Aman in Delhi. Prior to that she was the Head Sommelier of the Hilton Maldives Resort & Spa Rangali Island.

Aman Sharma is Manager, Corporate F&B, Taj Hotels, Mumbai. A recipient of the Robert Parker scholarship in 2006, he was the first Indian to become a certified wine professional from the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, California.

Executive Assistant Manager, F&B, Trident, Mumbai, Nitesh Gandhi is an alumnus of the Oberoi Centre of Learning and Development. He was part of the pre-opening team at The Oberoi, Udaivilas and Trident, Gurgaon, and is actively involved in the wine portfolio of the hotel.

Ajoy Shaw is Chief Winemaker at Sula Vineyards. A Biotechnologist with a Diploma in Wines and Spirits from WSET London, Shaw has represented India as a judge in several International Wine Challenges and is also an Associate member of the Institute of Wines and Spirits, London.

Sonal Holland is a wine educator, consultant and writer, qualified at London from WSET. She is the founder of Sonal Holland Wine Academy. Her unrelenting vision is to be India’s first Master of Wine.

Magandeep Singh is an F&B consultant, writer and educator. He is India’s first French certified sommelier and has opened the Institute of Wine and Beverage Studies (IWBS) in Delhi.

Abhay Kewadkar is Chief Winemaker and Business Head (Wines) of the UB Group and a Director at Four Seasons Wines Ltd. Prior to joining the UB Group he was Chief Winemaker and Vice President at Grover Vineyards Ltd.

Wine consultant and writer, Craig W Wedge is Sr Vice President Branding and Business Development – FineWinesnMore, Mumbai. Prior to this he was the wine consultant for The Marriot Hotels across Asia based in India.

For more information, please check www.siwc.in 8 Sommelier INDIA

COLUMN

Maternal Instincts Kavita Faiella offers a charmingly unique perspective on the emotional bonding between winemakers and their wines

here is something very special about watching a winemaker at work. I often feel that the relationship between a winemaker and his wine is a maternal one, as though there were an imaginary umbilical cord connected between him or her and each potential bottle of wine. There is an amazing sense of protection that can neither be captured nor communicated. If one found a way to bottle the energy of the pride and adoration felt at that moment, the world would be a different place. This unique bonding is apparent right from the vineyard, where each year the winemaker trains and encourages each vine to grow as strong and tall as possible, to the winery, where just like in the home, the “real” maternal instincts are found. One of the most fascinating things about wine, which I fully attribute to instinct, is the way in which, during the formative months of a wine, a winemaker can take just one sip and know exactly what does and doesn’t need to be done. I have often stood bewildered beside a winemaker and asked, “But how – how do you know exactly what this wine is going to be like in six months?” The answer is always the same, “I don’t, I just know what I have to do to try and guide it along the way.” There is no rule book. Just like a mother, the winemaker always knows best, and it is the beauty of this instinct that proves to us why creation – of a child or of a great wine – has no recipe. I believe it is the time whilst the wine is fermenting in the winery that the bond between the winemaker and the wine is strongest. The quality of the grape is of course the wine’s foundation, its DNA, created in the womb of the vineyard, but its time in the winery can almost be likened

to the wine’s educational period, when the winemaker as both, parent and teacher, invests all he has to ensure that each bottle is equipped with everything it needs to make its mark in the world. Just like a parent, the winemaker must dread the moment in which his wine is released for all the world to judge: those anxiety-ridden moments when complete strangers are given the opportunity to taste and evaluate, many of whose opinions can determine the destiny of that wine from that moment on. Is it good or is it bad? I can’t imagine the agony; it’s as though there were a point at which parents were given a verdict on whether they had raised a good or bad child. The question can then be asked: well, what is a good wine? And just as any loving parent would always answer – beauty is in the eye of the beholder – or in the case of wine, in the palate of the drinker. As a wine drinker you can’t always taste, but you can often feel when a wine has been loved and nurtured. This is why it is not just the taste of a wine that determines its quality, but also the story of that wine, which is the only way the passion and beauty that lies within it can ever be known. The famous story teller, Isabelle Allende, once said, “There is only one thing truer than the truth – the story.” Just as every mother teaches her child that one of the most important things in life is to be honest, so too does the winemaker – and in creating an honest wine, he creates a magical story, destined to be told all over the world.•

One of the fascinating things about wine, which I fully attribute to instinct, is the way in which a winemaker can take just one sip and know exactly what needs to be done

Cellar Master at The Aman New Delhi, Kavita Faiella writes from a woman’s perspective

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COLUMN

If you don’t tell, you can’t sell How are wines and wine culture promoted in a recession hit economy? Raghu Bahadur counts the ways good wine needs no Bush. Or Obama. Or, for that matter, McCain or Palin. Not that I am familiar with the drinking habits of any of them. Bush, of course, foreswore the bottle several years ago after a long and colourful association with it, but my guess is that, during that wet period, he was not a wine drinking man. As a good Texan I expect he went for the hard stuff. Obama, on the other hand, must surely be a wine drinker: he had completely won over Michelle towards the end of their very first date, and, out of all the drinking fraternity, only an oenophile can possess such compelling finesse. That said, wine producers are not ones to shy away from publicity, nor has there ever been a shortage of a large flock of dedicated and articulate protagonists to enhance their cause. Shakespeare must be among the earliest members of this committed group. In King Henry IV, Falstaff soliloquizes at length on what he considers to be the inadequacies of Prince John, then sensibly concludes, “But that’s no marvel, he drinks no wine.” A little later he becomes even more unequivocal in his admiration for wine as he fondly contemplates, “If I had a thousand sons the first humane principle I would teach them should be … to addict themselves to sack”, leaving his sense of responsibility as a parent open to question, to say nothing of the perils of raising a thousand winos in his backyard. Perhaps the promotion was unintended on Shakespeare’s part but had the grateful Spanish vintners shipped him a case or two of their white wine the Bard surely would not have sneezed at the gift. In more recent times (mid 70s I think) Paul Masson Winery of California carried out a very successful advertising campaign featuring the actor Orson Welles, which made Paul Masson and their wines a household name. Welles appeared in a series of short TV adverts,

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speaking memorable lines like, “Paul Masson will not sell wine before its time”, and, “A great symphony, like great wine, takes time”, the latter suitably underscored by music from Beethoven. The Welles that was seen in the adverts was completely sober but there also existed extensive footage of the shooting where he was in a drunken state. This footage was of course deleted but the existence of the outtakes too received publicity and may have added to the overall impact of the campaign. In another series of Paul Masson adverts which aired in the UK if memory serves me right, the protagonist is a portly and somewhat pompous wine critic who with a very pucca accent (not unlike the Hitchcock look-alike in Smith Barney’s adverts who uttered the self-righteous but unforgettable line, “We make money the old fashioned way, we earrrrn it”) proceeds to mock the American wine scene, pausing and wincing at some typical American expressions like “decent” wine and “lay the wine at the table”. The self-flagellation somehow combined very well with the concluding line, where the critic, looking approvingly at the bottle, grudgingly concedes, “Actually it’s quite good”, and the series was an instant winner. Paul Masson wines soon ended up on British supermarket shelves and even their unique, carafe like bottle with its long curving neck opening up at the top (making you wonder what sort of cork went into it, and where) achieved iconic status. Our own liquor advertising scene is virtually nonexistent due to a restrictive official policy. All one gets are private promotional events and a few very large billboards that have found the tiniest of loopholes in the policy. One producer introduced a soft drink named after its whisky and followed it up with extensive TV advertising. One such campaign was withdrawn as the Advertising Standards Council of India decided that it “appeared to be a surrogate ad for a liquor brand”. It does seem unlikely that sales

of a brand of soda water alone can support the cost of a 30-second slot on prime time TV. If an Indian winery is harbouring thoughts of launching a line of corkscrews named after their Pinot Noir my advice to them would be: don’t. The absence of a liberal advertising policy on liquor products perhaps has only a limited effect on the trade as the market is limited and, for wine drinkers at least, for whom choice and selection is important, word of mouth promotion is most effective. Basically, consumers know what is what and, most importantly, where and how to get it. In the end, cost perhaps is the only deciding factor. And for the small recession-free group sitting at the top, sharp end of the drinkers’ pyramid, who shop exclusively at duty free and boutique outlets, even cost is not an issue. “What recession? 1929 happened 80 years ago!” his brings me to the more recent economic meltdown of 2008/09 vintage. Well, when the going got tough, a tough New York wine retailer got going. Taking advantage of the imminent opening of schools after the summer holidays ‘back to school specials’ were brought out for moms and, presumably, out-of-job dads, to help them ‘get into the swing of things’ with the kids back at school. Having got the parents under the table they then announced their annual, Boss is Gone Sale which, claimed the employees who had ostensibly engineered the sale, was to celebrate their success in “shoving him out the door” for a vacation. I suppose there was a great party at the premises, shelves overflowing with wines from all over the world, with employees and customers mingling and backslapping one another. Serve them right, if the boss decided to cut short his vacation and walked in unannounced. The real test of the retailers’ mettle and ingenuity is in the area of pricing. The term ‘recession busters’ is much in evidence in the US and there are plenty of Recession Reds and Meltdown Whites going around at irresistible prices. A California Chardonnay and a Spanish Rosé were on offer at $4, several well known California reds and whites at $7 and Lindemans (South Africa) 2006 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon at a tempting $5. I wish we could see such prices in India. Even if there is no profit at these prices – which of course is unlikely – it makes you think what excise and taxes do to the wine trade in India. While the wine trade is fighting its own battle against the recession, a recession-hit fourth estate is trying to find salvation in the wine trade. The latest entrant is The New York Times, which has formed a wine club in an effort to shore up declining revenues. Among other benefits, members will receive related wine and food articles, as well as wine tasting notes paired with recipes from the newspaper. It would seem that the club will have automatic in-house expertise in the form of the paper’s wine critics. However,

in an environment where the notion of conflict of interest carries significant weight, the management of the paper has declared that the club would be run independently of its wine section. Forbes and The Wall Street Journal already have their own wine clubs and the latter, in an apparent show of its financial skill, is seeking new members with the line, “This is one time it pays to get deep into the red”. Whether or not salvation comes their way, it is a pleasing thought that there is room in the trade for everyone. And there is room, too, for the small band perched at the very top of the pyramid. A vintner in the UK has something that’s just up their alley: a case of 1982 Domaine Romanee-Conti at an inviting £54,000. And if, perchance, a recession-hit upstart has infiltrated the group, tell him there is a case of 1966 Taylor going a-begging at a mere £950, and he should reconsider his decision to go rolling down the steep side of the pyramid. I, too, have had a rethink on my opening statement: perhaps a good Syrah does need a Palin.• Former banker, Raghu Bahadur is a Gurgaon-based writer and Sommelier India columnist with a passion for wine

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THE WINE LIFE

ART

Poster artist from Bordeaux

Jean-Pierre Got at work in his home in Bordeaux

What do you like about painting posters? I like giving information about a product with a minimal visual message and a simple, amusing or intriguing image.

How long does it take you to complete a poster? It varies from a few days to two weeks, as every element of the artwork is hand-painted, including text letterings. Working on a small format leads me to use fine brushes and a magnifying glass.

What kind of paper and paints do you use? Original artworks are painted on size 8 X 11 inches of A4 Canson paper. I start with a gouache background, adding pastel touches and finishing with a charcoal crayon for outlining figures or enhancing details.

Did you have any formal training in art? No training at all. By looking at numerous old French posters, I tried to understand what made these old ‘vintage posters’ striking and unique – a limited number of colours, a funny or poetical theme, only one or two characters, an airy composition and a subject that viewers of all ages can understand.

What made you select wine as your subject matter? My formal training was in wine. Wine is part of the culture of the southwest of France where I was born. Wine has deep religious, cultural and social meanings. Therefore one might find hidden symbolic meanings behind the simple drawing of a poster image.

How do you develop your ‘vintage’ layouts? My first commission for a poster came in 1992 from a Bordeaux wine negotiant house celebrating its 100th

A former wine exporter in Bordeaux, now a full-time poster artist and illustrator, Jean-Pierre Got’s art is imbued with the charm of a by-gone era. Got chats with Reva K Singh about his work and the special poster she commissioned for the Sommelier India Wine Competition anniversary. Others followed, requesting designs in the Belle Epoque and Art Deco styles. I like the Art Nouveau style traditionally linked to restaurants and bistros, and also Art Deco of the 1930s for its more elegant and sober layouts. These styles perfectly fit wine subjects. I am also inspired by the humorous posters of the ’60s. My ideals are artists Jules Chéret, Cappiello, Colin, Hergé and Savignac.

Do you only create event posters? Most of the posters I paint are for vineyards and wine brands. Some are for wine events.

Who are your main clients? Most of my posters have been commissioned, up to now, by California wineries. French Vintage poster style is very popular in the US, where people enjoy both its humour and simplicity. All my poster clients want me to express ‘joie de vivre’ for their product. The Sommelier India Wine Competition is my 90th poster and my first commission from India!

Can you explain the thinking behind our poster’s imagery? How would you describe its style? The poster for this year’s Sommelier India Wine Competition was painted in the Belle Epoque fashion, using charcoal outlining and old-style lettering on ‘faded’ brown paper. Vermilion (or sindoor) red is the striking colour that should attract the passers-by’s attention. Black fonts will lead viewers’ eyes from top to bottom for date, location and event subject. The illustration was made to be very simple for an immediate understanding of what’s going on – a Wine Challenge. Inviting mahout and elephant joyfully celebrate their arrival in Mumbai. The wine glasses on the poster are the Bordeaux wine type.•

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CHEESE & WINE IN INDIA

Cheese in its various forms is widely used in Indian cuisine for vegetarian main courses and desserts alike. Whatʼs new is the consumption of wine and cheese together as the wine drinking culture catches on. By Habib Rehman

he use of ‘cheese’, as seen in today’s processed form and its use in tandem with wine, is not of too distant an origin. In our country, European influences have helped to bring these two together and now with the accent shifting from hard spirits to wines, this indulgence has received a further impetus. Originally, curdled milk was placed in moulds with holes, so that the whey would drain out. These moulds were known as ‘formos’ – a Greek word, leading perhaps to the French name for cheese – ‘fromage’ Interestingly, the origin of the English word ‘cheese’ can also be traced back to the old Sanskrit word ‘kasi’. Historically, it is said that ‘cheese’ came to India with the earliest Dutch settlers, who sailed up the River Hooghly and set up camp on the river banks at Chinsurah. There were other European settlers who also came to the area around the same time. These were the Danes at Serampore, the French at Chandanagore, the Portuguese at Bandel and the British at Calcutta. A cheese hunt in the region, does not lead to any traces of the origin of Dutch cheese. However, there is a type of smoked cheese available in the shape of small roundels, at Kolkata’s Sir Stuart Hogg Market (popularly known as New Market), and referred to as ‘Bandel Cheese’. Bandel, a tiny Portuguese settlement, lies within the Chinsurah Municipality. Early Vedic literature, mentions two types of dadhanwat, which means ‘an abundance of curds’. The two types possibly refer to drained and undrained (or hung) yoghurt. Early colonial literature, also mentions three types of cheeses, including the earlier mentioned Bandel cheese – Dacca, Bandal and Surti – referring no doubt to the locations where they originate. The first two are of the smoked variety, while the third is said to be salted. The hilly region of Kalimpong, is also known for its special variety of cheese, sold as large balls wrapped in red cellophane. It may not be quite the same as the world-famous Cheddar, but aficionados of cheese assert that the product still appeals to the global palate. André Butty, a missionary,

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Historically, it is said that ‘cheese’ came to India with the earliest Dutch settlers, who sailed up the River Hooghly and set up camp on the river banks at Chinsurah

Photos: Courtesy ITC-Welcomgroup

Three Indian cottage cheese staples Paneer Tikka, Paneer Qaliya and Sandesh

who died in 1987, is said to have been responsible for first introducing cheese to Kalimpong. Today there are just a couple of households that keep alive a legacy of the town, that once famously exported around 2,000 kg of its cheese to Kolkata per month. Sikkim, lying close to Kalimpong, has its own fermented dairy product prepared from cow’s milk, known as ‘churpi’. This traditional variety of cottage cheese fermented by lactic acid, has the texture of a white soft mass with a mildly sour taste. With an annual production of 1469 tons, the average consumption of churpi in Sikkim is said to be as high as 10 gms per day. In India, cottage cheese has been popular for a large number of years and is considered a very important addition to the vegetarian menu in the northern belt of India. In fact, paneer, as it is popularly known, can be used for starters, main dishes or even desserts! Paneer pakoras and paneer tikkas make excellent starters. In its curried form such as Paneer Qaliya, paneer is rated as high as a curried meat dish. Among the endless varieties of desserts made out of cream or hung yoghurt (popularly known as chenna), the best known use in the eastern part of India is in the making of sandesh – the region’s most popular sweet dish. Chenna Payish, which consists of chenna dumplings in thickened

milk, also originated in Bengal, but has over the years become a popular dessert all over India.• Habib Rehman was formely Executive Director, ITC Limited – Hotels, Travel, Tourism & Foods. Now retired, he continues to live the good life This article first appeared in WelcomZest, An Appetite for the Good Life, ITC-Welcomgroup.

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THE WINE LIFE

Bilila Lodge Kempinski in Serengeti National Park

Sparkling table setting for a private dinner in the wine cellar

Nico Vivier conducting a wine tasting

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PLACES

Wine Cellar in the Bush he finest wine list in East Africa is the boast of the brand new Bilila Lodge Kempinski in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, set in a remote area of the 14,763 sq km park. Creating and maintaining a high quality wine cellar way out in the bush where temperatures run to 30°C involves careful planning and maintenance. Twenty-six year old South African Nico Vivier, who doubles as sommelier and maitre d’, is eager to create a wine atmosphere. His cellar is no musty barrel scented cavern but a ground level room centred by an impressive silver and crystal laden table where guests can dine by candlelight among the wine stock. The wines, sparkling, red and white are all stored together at a constant 16°C which Vivier says suits both white and red. Three generators, two always on back up, ensure there is no over heating while the use of stone cladding helps keep the room cool. Simply getting the wines in such an isolated place involves lengthy forward planning. For March delivery, wines must be ordered by November. Most come from South African boutique wineries; some labels are not even seen in South Africa which make Bilila’s list unique. The lodge pays for the space underneath its wine container during the four-week voyage to Mombasa to keep the wines cooler. From Mombasa they are trucked for storage in Arusha, a one-and-a-half hour flight and a one-hour jolting dirt track road away. Five percent of the wine list is made up of top French labels, including Petrus, Haut Brion and Lafitte. The precious Petrus is flown from South Africa in shock-proof boxes with sensors that show if the wine was shaken up. Safaris are not usually associated with fine wine experiences. But Vivier is creating a new ambience in the bush. As guests return from game drives in the late afternoon, he arranges light African tapas snacks and opens four to five wines instead of a formal wine tasting. In addition, multi-course degustation menus are arranged in the cellar with seven to eight wines. Or Vivier may organise a ‘virtual tour’ of South African wineries for guests sitting around an extensive oval bar. After dinner in the billiard room, Vivier puts on cigar and cognac pairings or chocolate and rum tastings. The robust, fruity, tannin-filled South African wines are easy to pair with hearty and spicy African stews. Popular on Vivier’s extensive wine list are Guardian Peak 2007 with ‘white pepper and hints of spice giving way to intense dark fruit and Christmas cake aromas’ and the Asara Reserve 2008 with its lingering tastes of ‘marmalade and buttered toast’. Vivier suggests a pre-meal drink of Camberley Sparkling Shiraz 2004 that should be drunk very cold, colder than champagne, to give an exciting bubble and freshness. Pinotage goes well with most dishes. Fairview Pinotage 2007 has blackberry and plum flavours laced with spicy caramel and cappuccino. Among the red blends, Rupert and Rothschild’s 2002 Baron Edmond, a cabernet sauvignon /merlot blend has an eclectic bouquet ranging from cinnamon to earthy tobacco. Asara Noble Late Harvest 2004 is an excellent dessert and foie gras wine made from Chenin Blanc grapes. The safari scene in Africa is changing from simple tented lodges and whisky sundowners to the sophistication of world class facilities including the best wines in the bush.• — Carol Wright

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THE WINE LIFE

PRODUCTS

Miele Wine Coolers now in India

he fun of collecting wine is trying wines at different stages in their growth. Warmer temperatures prematurely age wine, but some wines improve with age. Without proper storage, you will never know how good the wine could have been. In India, especially, proper wine storage is critical. Not every bottle you buy for your new

wine collection is going to be there five years from now, but it’s important to store the wine properly and protect your investment. If you’ve been wanting to buy a wine cooler, here’s good news for you. Miele, the iconic German company, maker of high-end home appliances, will soon be bringing an exciting range of wine coolers to India. What’s really good about a Miele cooler is that it has three individual temperature zones so that you can adjust each section to the exact temperature you want for your reds, whites and bubblies – anywhere between 45°F and 64°F . This is a Miele innovation and will be welcomed by wine-lovers who know that whites and sparkling wines require much cooler temperatures than reds. Another plus point of Miele is that its cooling system ensures an even circulation of air and constant humidity so that there are no abrupt, or even subtle, changes in storage temperature which can dramatically affect the quality of your wines. Miele plans to bring three varieties of wine coolers to India: Miele under counter, Miele free standing and the top-of-the-line, Miele MasterCoolTM whose electronic controls ensure that temperature fluctuation does not occur. All the coolers are made of purest stainless steel that is resistant to finger prints, scratches and the effects of household cleaners. And best of all, Miele products are built to last for at least 20 years. • Quick tips on wine serving temperatures By Kevin Zraly, founder and teacher of the immensely popular Windows on the World wine school in New York 1. Great Chardonnays are best at warmer temperatures (55°F to 60°F / 12.7°C to 15.5°C) than white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling (45°F to 55°F / 7.2°C to 12.7°C). 2. Champagnes and sparkling wines taste better well chilled (45°F / 7.2°C). 3. Lighter reds, such as Gamay, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese bring out a better balance of fruit to acid when served at a cooler temperature (55°F to 60°F / 12.5°C to 15.5°C) than wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (60°F to 65°F / 15.5°C to 18.3°C).

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Finest Wines from Austria

For more information kindly contact In Austria email : office@wine-spirit.at Tel : +43 680 211 9608, +43 676 942 1754

www.wine-spirit.at 20 Sommelier INDIA

In India email : gill@wine-spirit.at Tel +91 98100 24957

COMMENT

WHAT’S A MEDAL WORTH? David Cobbold on wine competitions and their value in a new wine market

ine competitions are one of the major means used around the world to promote wines, and especially the wines that win medals in these competitions. After all, one talks more about winners than losers in all forms of sports, so why should wine be different? Well, one of the reasons why wine is a little different from, say, an athlete, is that unlike an athletics competition, wine competitions do not judge the entrants on purely objective criteria, such as the fastest, the highest, the longest, or whatever. Wines are judged using the accumulation of subjective opinions of a group of judges, all of whom have their own individual tastes, and variable experience. In other words, a medal winner in a wine competition has not only to please a majority of judges, but also not displease most of the judges in that particular jury. Another important fact, and this is common to athletic contests, is that a winner is always relative to the overall quality of the other competitors. It therefore stems from this that all wine competitions, “challenges” or whatever they may be called, are highly relative affairs, with the two benchmarks being the general level of all the wines involved, and the tastes, experience and competence of the members of the jury. Does this mean that one should disregard the results of wine competitions? Of course not. They have, over the years, provided a fairly reliable guide for consumers and have stimulated among winemakers a healthy level of emulation. They are also a very useful means for up-and-coming producers to get their wines known to the public. However, one should not take the results of wine competitions as some kind of absolute truth as to the ‘best’ wines. Wines that win medals are simply the best of a certain batch on one particular day, and for one particular group of tasters. The more we learn about wine, and the more we taste this totally fascinating substance, the more we learn that our own tastes change with time, in different places and according to all kinds of circumstances. Hence there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ in wine, no absolutely ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Simply a scale of relativity that can, and often does, change in time and according to the circumstances. So what can we do to estimate how valid are the results

of a competition? The first thing is to ascertain how the competition was organised. Firstly, were the wines tasted in the proper conditions (good glassware, a quiet room, the right temperature for each type of wine)? Secondly, were they tasted ‘blind’ and in peer groups: in other words, with the bottles masked so that the labels would not influence the tasters, and in groups with similar types of wines? Next, one should look at the composition of the jury: were they all professionals, or, at least, very experienced and trained amateurs? Finally, one should consider the general level of the wines entered for the competition in question. It is clear that a racing horse will, accidents apart, always beat a donkey! In the case of a very young wine market like India, seriously organised wine competitions play two vital roles. Firstly, they attract general attention to wine as a product category that merits our attention, that can be evaluated, and within which people can make guided choices, gradually exploring their own tastes. Wine competitions show that wine is something to be discussed and debated, like a film or a novel; wine is, in other words, much more than ‘just a drink’. Secondly, competitions help new consumers to select wines from what must seem like a bewildering number of names that convey nothing to them about the relative merits of each. A good jury will give guidelines to consumers through the awards they present, indicating which wines are most likely to please. Just to give you an idea as to how reliable some competitions can be, I recently drank, from my own cellar, a bottle of Cape Mentelle’s Cabernet Sauvignon 1983, from Margaret River in Western Australia. Both the 1983 and the 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon’s from the then very young winery (first vintage in 1979, I think) had won the Jimmy Watson Trophy for the best young red wine in Australia, but I did not, on opening this wine, expect it to have aged quite as gracefully as it had. It was absolutely beautiful and quite on a level with the best from Bordeaux! Smooth and yet deeply fruity, tenacious yet gentle on the palate, totally harmonious in every respect. I did not purchase this bottle only because it had won a medal, but as it turned out, it was a great wine. So, thank you to Cape Mentelle, and congratulations to the organisers of the Jimmy Watson Trophy back in 1985 or thereabouts.•

A good jury will give guidelines to consumers through the awards they present, indicating which wines are most likely to please

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How good are Indian wines?

The Sommelier India Tasting Panel presents its findings

Some members of the SI Tasting panel. Clockwise from top: Reva Singh, Harshal Shah, Rovina Sabnani and guest panellist, Rajiv Kehr

ne of the amazing things about wine is its uncanny ability to surprise the drinker time and time again. This was the over-riding lesson that the Sommelier India Tasting Panel learnt at this month’s tasting. We decided this time to taste the local offerings of red wine. They are, after all, the most widely available and easiest to acquire in the retail market. What made this a very well-rounded tasting was that none of us on the tasting panel had much previous experience with tasting such a variety of Indian reds, so this was a ‘blind’ tasting in more ways than one. The overall conclusion that we came to was that Indian wine is more than palatable, provided you find a young, well-stored bottle. Therefore, it’s important to find a retailer you trust, who both stores the wine and rotates his stock correctly. However, it is still difficult to taste a wine and define it as being specificaly from ‘Indian’ terroir. This will take time – and the right controls in terms of regulation as well as vineyard management and winemaking practices – for it to change. As far as red wines go, Indian producers have mainly stuck to well-known French varietals. The wines for the tasting panel were all Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet/ Shiraz blends. (We await the day when other European varietals such as Tempranillo, Monastrell and Nero D’Avola wines are produced in India to grace our retail shelves). The best Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world produce dark, intense wines that have an impressive structure. Their flavour profile can be anything from mint/ eucalyptus to blackcurrant and dark fruit. The varietal does well in moderate to warm climates and ideally thrives in poor, gravelly soil. Shiraz or Syrah, on the other hand, needs warm to hot climates to express itself. The best

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Syrahs are usually full-bodied with red fruit and dark berry characteristics, and sometimes even hints of dark chocolate and leather. Perhaps the future of Indian wines lies not in Maharashtra or Karnataka, but up north, in Himachal Pradesh or Kashmir, where poorer, rockier soils and much cooler weather could lead to some very intriguing outcomes. Coming back to our tasting, an over-bearing characteristic of the red wines sampled was a consistent “stalky” character – a suggestion of green capsicum both in the aroma and on the palate. This is perhaps indicative of over-extraction from the grapes during the production process, or of a propensity of the producers to pick the grapes a little unripe to hold on to some acidity in the wine. This was only slightly present in the wines but is something that needs to be ironed out by winemakers for future vintages. A few of the wines appeared to have ‘closed’ aromas. This is not something one would expect from Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz based wines, particularly wines that have been in bottle for around six to nine months. What this told us, therefore, was that there still appear to be hygiene issues in many Indian wineries. Certain bacteria have the ability to eat away at the compounds in wine, killing its fruit notes. More attention needs to be given to this issue by the wineries, especially those belonging to the old guard. On a much more positive note, it was good to see producers like Reveilo, Zampa and the newest member on the block, Four Seasons, drinking really well, along with the tried and tested popular brands. Reveilo, in particular, continues to impress following its early success.• — Harshal Shah

SI panellists taste

WINE tasting

A selection of Indian reds Given below are tasting notes for each of the wines before the panel. They are listed in order of preference, from highest to lowest:

1. Reveilo Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Dark ruby in colour. An expressive nose of blackcurrant and plums with an earthy character and a hint of stalkyness. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with intense, sweet dark fruit. Quite treacly, with a hint of dark berry jam. An obvious indication of oak, with the sweetness indicative perhaps of American oak. Moderate tannins that are not over-bearing. Some hints of refreshing acidity leading to a medium-long finish. If stored well, this wine has the potential to soften and develop some good secondary flavours over the next 2-5 years. Closure: Synthetic cork. Price: Rs 895.

2. Four Seasons Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Ruby, with a slight pale garnet rim. Immediate leather and oak characters on the nose – even a slight meatiness. Not much fruit but a slight earthy character with some chocolate/coffee notes. Some stalky/herbal notes on the nose too. Refreshing acidity on the palate with chalky (fine) tannins. Some slightly ripe red fruit and cedar/oak characters. A short to medium long finish. Drink now. Closure: Screwcap. Price: Rs 550.

3. Zampa Syrah/Cabernet 2008 Fresh raspberries on the palate. A little raspberry-cordial character with interesting herbal and stalky notes. A slight yeasty character indicative of recent bottling. The palate is light to medium-bodied and a little astringent with acidity and stalky tannins. This wine might need a few months to settle into the bottle, but showing good potential in about 9-15 months’ time. Drink now to 12 months. Closure: Cork. Price: Rs 600.

4. Sula Cabernet/Shiraz 2008 Bright ruby. Some red berry notes (cranberry, raspberry) and a hint of leather/meaty aromas. A slightly medicinal characteristic too. A light to medium-bodied red that has light acidity and quite light tannins. Very Beaujolaisesque in style except for a slight stalky character. A hint of red berries on the palate but an otherwise non-descript wine. Short finish. Drink now. Closure: Screwcap. Price: Rs 480.

5. Seagrams Nine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Dark ruby with a slight pale ruby rim. Some earthy notes on the nose with strong indicators of French oak and some brown spice. Very little fruit is apparent on the nose although there is a very faint suggestion of blackcurrant, but certainly some minty/stalky notes. A medium to fullbodied style showing some dark fruit, but generally a little astringent and even slightly bitter in the finish. Drink now. Closure: Screwcap. Price: Rs 500.

6. Grover Vineyards Cabernet/Shiraz 2007 Ruby with a faint garnet rim. A very faint suggestion of red berries – raspberries in particular. A closed nose not giving much away. Light-medium bodied with low acidity and very light tannins. The wine is not sweet but gives the impression of being a touch ‘flabby’ with a short finish. Closure: Screwcap. Price: Rs 480.

7. Château D’Ori Cabernet/Syrah 2007 Faulty sample. It would have been interesting to try a bottle of this wine in good shape and there seemed to be some depth of colour and an intensity on the nose. This wine was badly stored, smelling tired and giving off a strong medicinal/iodine aroma on the nose. Closure: Cork. Price: Rs 550.•

Sommelier India thanks the wine producers and distributors who generously provided samples of their wines for tasting

Anakena Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile and a selection of our favourite Indian reds

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DARING TO BE DIFFERENT Ranjit Dhuruʼs dream is driven by his ferocious passion for wines. Sonal Holland interviews the chairman and CEO of Château dʼOri wines As the head of Aftek India, a 900 people-strong technology services company, what prompted you to take the daring step of going into the totally different business of wine production? Building a software business requires technical intelligence. The business of wine requires a lot more passion; it is a complex yet an exhilarating business to be in. During my travels to different countries, I was introduced to the wine culture in the West. Back home, I found that there was a distinct opportunity to capitalise on India’s unique geographical and consistent climatic advantages to make a good quality wine comparable to anywhere else in the world. I want my wines to be absolutely top class, both in India and internationally. They should be delicious and fantastic. It is only madness that has me driving tirelessly down to Dindori in Nashik over most weekends, through rain and unending road glitches. But the wine business takes me back to my roots. I find my peace here.

Viticulture and winemaking require a lot of technical know-how. How did you acquire expertise in wine production? Again, it was my unrelenting passion and desire to learn that led me to acquire all that I needed to know about 24 Sommelier INDIA

the art of growing grapes and making wine. As a business entrepreneur, you have to enter projects with a sense of conviction. Although I come from a family of lawyers and am a qualified corporate lawyer, I built Aftek – today a successful software company – from scratch. My ability to go in-depth into any subject and do a hands-on job gave me the confidence to build Château d’Ori as well.

What is your opinion of the Nashik-Dindori terroir? Nashik and Dindori account for 80% to 90% of grape production in India, including table and grape varietals. The Dindori region is about 2,200ft above sea level and has a climate very similar to regions like Cahor located in the south of Bordeaux. The soil in Dindori is perfect – not too rich, gravelly and with good drainage. This allows roots to penetrate deeper into the soil in search of moisture and nutrients, thereby making the vine plant strongly embedded into the soil. I am confident about suitability of the Dindori terroir for viticulture.

Why did you choose the name Château d’Ori? The name comes from the hill of Ori situated in Dindori. In fact, the name Dindori is also inspired from the name of

this hill. The word ‘château’ in French has come to define a piece of land used for growing grapes and making wine – and everyone is well aware of my love for French wines.

a similar scheme. However, no promotion can make your product better than it is. The fact that people appreciated the wine was all that mattered to us.

Can you highlight the social, economic and legal challenges involved in setting up a winery in India?

Are you seeking strategic investments in your wine business?

I find that the concept of wine is still not fully understood in India. You may find it hard to believe, but even qualified and top-notch executives in the Banking industry do not fully appreciate the business of wine and the opportunity it offers. I realised this when I applied for a business loan and discovered that it was far easier to get a loan to start a software business than trying to convince the banks about making and selling wine. Lack of awareness, inadequate exposure to internatioal wine culture combined with restrictions on advertising alcoholic drinks has led to a major socio-economic hurdle in the promotion of wines. Our liquor shops have been called wine shops long before we even knew what wine meant. So wine today is associated by most people with hard liquor. I really long for smoother excise regulations with less cumbersome movement in the sale of wine between states in India. I am hopeful that the Government will eventually allow wine producers the ownership of their land as this will encourage experimentation and better quality control.

It is commonly said, ‘to make a small fortune in wine, you need to start with a large one’. What are your thoughts on achieving profitability? That dictum is true, globally, as the return on investments in highly competitive and fragmented markets can be quite narrow. However, I remain optimistic about the Indian market. China has shown remarkable progress in wine consumption over the last five years. Today, its per capital annual consumption is a litre of wine, and I am confident that India will follow a similar trend. We need better support from the Government in providing waivers in inter-state excise duties, some of which are already seen to be happening. I find that if you maintain better control over your capital expenditure, use technology intelligently and engage in effective marketing strategies, the business margins in India can be quite healthy.

A strategic investor would be someone who understands and appreciates the quality of our product, brings intellectual know-how and credibility along with wide access to markets both locally and internationally. We have very ambitious plans for the company and it is important that these plans are shared and believed in totally. The cultural match therefore is more important to me than raising the money. I would welcome discussions with such a potential investor.

What has been the impact of the economic slowdown and what has been your strategy to survive the downturn? The economic slowdown has been all pervasive and we are no exception to that. Worse, after the Mumbai terror attacks, the best season of the year (November and December) was badly affected in Mumbai along with Goa, Pune and Thane. Mumbai city constitutes the most significant market for us and therefore there were challenges. However we choose to look at the broader picture and keep our eye on our long-term goals. Our focus right now is on continuing to improve the quality of our wines and push sales. We have introduced the Viva range of wines which retail at Rs 325 a bottle, slightly less expensive than our regular range. This is a blend of our 2008 and 2009 vintage. The 2008 vintage is still going strong and blended with the 2009 vintage, the wine makes for a great drink at an attractive price.

Mass market or niche player? What is your vision for Château d’Ori? I would say, neither. I would rather be seen as a quality player. To bring this into some perspective, we have a total production capacity of 1.5 million bottles, of which we are currently utilising about 25% with 400,000 bottles released annually. 20,000 sq ft of space allows us ample scope for expansion. My vision is that in under a decade, Château

Last year your promotional campaign of Buy One, Get One Free earned the negative market perception that Château d’Ori had a huge surplus and was in financial trouble. Is this true? At the time when we introduced the promotion, we were relatively new in the market and our intention was to get as many consumers to sample the product as possible. So we introduced this offer at some key retail outlets in Mumbai. Many consumers did try our wines and liked them. Soon the word got round and all the retailers wanted us to offer Bottles of Château d’Ori wines

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d’Ori be seen as the leading quality wine brand in India and be recognised for this quality internationally too.

What can the consumer expect in terms of price, style and quality? The consumer should expect an uncompromising quality of wines priced slightly above the average. Our singlevarietal wines are priced between Rs 350 to Rs 550, which is above the mass-market pricing. Keeping the consumption price pyramid in mind, it is our conscious decision to be placed towards the tip of the pyramid. Our premium wines (Cabernet Merlot and Cabernet Shiraz blends) are priced at Rs 750 and up. We will introduce one more category of top-end exclusive wines perhaps in early 2010. These wines are currently being aged in French oak barrels. Our expectation is that these wines will be exceptional and will compete with fine wines globally.

Do your wines age well? The ageing ability of a wine depends on the quality of the grape, the age of the vineyard, maceration techniques and the amount and quality of barrel fermenting and ageing. Our reserve blends age for about three to four years and we do not doubt that our limited-edition wines will have better ageing potential. Every year, we intend to grow one notch higher in terms of quality.

What in your opinion needs to be done for Indian wines to go global? Indian wine companies must invest in more research in viticulture to ensure that the grape varietals chosen are perfectly matched to the soil, climate and topography. Even something as seemingly insignificant as the direction of the wind must be kept in mind while deciding on the plantations. The adage that ‘wine is made in the vineyard’ cannot be truer, as it’s the amount of time you spend planning the viticulture that will directly impact on the quality of your wines. As a winemaker the biggest challenge is balancing

A panoramic view of the Château d’Ori vineyards in Dindori with the winery in the distance 26 Sommelier INDIA

commercial interests and ensuring quality. A balance is difficult to maintain but a passionate wine producer must always keep his focus and eye towards maintaining both quality and consistency.

Wine education and wine tourism are said to be the new sunrise industries. Do you believe in their future in India? Yes, I have no doubt that wine tourism in India will be the next thing. The infrastructure of our country continues to improve, we now have better airports in most tier 1 and tier 2 cities, new hotels are being built and people are becoming more upwardly mobile. All this will eventually lead to more travel for Indians within their own country and more foreign tourists visiting India. The wine regions will attract their fair share of this tourism pie.

What are your plans for Château d’Ori over the next 12 to 18 months? We are continuing to focus on investing in the quality of our wines, listing our wines at key retail outlets, in hotels and restaurants and building a demand for our wines through intelligent marketing strategies. I am also conscious of how more and more people are visiting our winery year after year. Our four-bedroom guest house is perpetually booked and we have to sometimes turn visitors away. I, therefore, feel encouraged to take this to a whole new level. We are currently working on an exciting plan to build a state-of-theart wine tourism resort that will cater to the discerning global wine traveller in a way India has never witnessed before! The design is likely to be inspired by 17th century European baroque architecture. With a luxurious health and beauty spa, a restaurant serving world cuisine created by an internationally renowned chef, a spacious wine shop selling personalised and branded Château d’Ori wine accessories and well-appointed tastefully designed guestrooms, this resort is sure to draw top-end clientele. With this, I aim to go for gold. My dream is to put Château d’Ori on the world map.•

SAUTERNES

GOING SWEET ON ASIA Bérénice Lurton, President of the Association of Sauternes and Barsac Producers, believes that sweet French wines and Asian foods are made for each other. Harshal Shah is an enthusiastic convert

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WINE traveller

Château Climens in Barsac

érénice Lurton is a warm, generous and extremely fascinating woman. The adjectives could keep rolling out, but perhaps two other words that best describe her are “passionate” and “driven”. She is the owner of Château Climens in Barsac, a small commune of less than 15 square kilometres on the right bank of the Garonne river, across the smaller Ciron river from the town of Sauternes in the south of Bordeaux. The geography may sound a little confusing but what is clear is that the wines produced at Château Climens are some of the best sweet wines in France, and probably the world. Bérénice was elected president of the association of the Sauternes and Barsac Crus Classés producers in April last year and since then, has made it her firm mission to promote the wines from the regions with a fervour and commitment that would make her father Lucien – the patriarch of one half of Bordeaux’ greatest modern vineyard-owning, wineproducing dynasty, the Lurtons – extremely proud. Immediately upon taking up her role as the head of the association, Bérénice made Asia a priority. The reason for this is obvious. Quite simply, Asian cuisine lends itself perfectly to the sweet, refreshing wines of Sauternes and Barsac. The delicate spices and the complex flavours in the food trigger some pretty spectacular notes in the wine, and the harmonious marriage of flavours is rather magical. Asia is also still somewhat new as a wine-drinking market and, naturally, sweet wines are going to have a lot more instant appeal than robust, tannic reds. The Sauternes appellation allows for wines produced in five communes, namely Sauternes itself, together with Barsac, Bommes, Preignac and Fargues to use the official Appellation Sauternes Controlée. But of the five communes,

Bérénice Lurton, president of the association of the Sauternes and Barsac Crus Classés producers

only Barsac is an appellation in its own right and can choose to have its wines labelled ‘Barsac’ or ‘Sauternes’. The grapes used in all the communes are predominantly Semillon (approximately 85% of the plantings in the area) and Sauvignon Blanc (approximately 15% of the plantings) with Muscadelle also permitted and sometimes blended. Late in the growing season, as the cool, autumn waters of the Ciron flow towards the warmer Garonne, mists

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develop, lingering over the vines at the break of day, only dissipating with the warmth of the new day’s sun. This earlymorning moisture engenders the development of mould on the grapes, activating the noble rot Botrytis cinerea. Because the mists dry out during the day, the rot remains benevolent and not ‘grey’, which is undesirable. What makes the rot ‘noble’ is the fact that it does not impart any mouldy, off-putting flavours to the grapes. The fungus simply punctures the grape berries, causing the water in the grapes to evaporate, leaving the intense, sweet grape syrup behind. It is this grape syrup that is fermented to produce the sweet wines of the region.

ow yields are inherent, of course. One cannot always rely on the development of Botrytis. Careful hand-harvesting and hand-sorting are practically ubiquitous, and the task of harvesting involves multiple inspections of the vineyards, often several times a day, starting as early as 4.00 am, to select the specific berries that are at the perfect level of ripeness. This process of multiple-picking is known as a trie (pronounced “tree”). It is time-consuming and thus expensive and is one of the reasons the sweet wines from the region are so pricey. It also accounts for the high quality of the wines. Personally, I have to admit a particular fondness for the sweet wines of Barsac over those of Sauternes – only marginally, though – perhaps because of lightness, raciness and the wondrous ginger-floral notes that good Barsac shows. Typical Barsac has a slight almond character, with white peach and slightly menthol/ginger notes and a hint of toasty vanilla. The soils of Barsac are peppered with limestone but typically have a red, sandy, alluvial character

Gnarled, old vines with clusters of grapes affected by ‘noble rot’ 30 Sommelier INDIA

and are often high in ferrous compounds like iron oxide. This could be what affects the flavour profile of the wines and sets them apart from the wines of Sauternes proper. The Sauternes terroir, on the other hand, is distinguished by a geological predisposition to gravel and pebbles that cover limestone streaked with veins of clay. This is probably what gives the wines of Sauternes their richer body. They often have a sweet peach, apricot, pineapple and orange marmalade-like character with hints of vanilla. Bérénice really did open my mind to just how foodfriendly these wines can be. Expecting an indulgent luncheon involving foie-gras, beef-cheek and Roquefort (all traditional matches to Sauternes), I was more than a little bewildered when Bérénice spoke about how Sauternes should be more than a ‘special occasion’ wine. I was intrigued. After some moments of thought and certainly after lunch, I had to agree with her. The hors-d’oeuvre comprised only of a plate of thinly sliced, good quality prosciutto, oily and salty. The 2006 Cyprès de Climens,

Mouldy grapes that produce the most delicious food-friendly sweet wines

A case of Château Climens: the wines of Sauternes and Barsac command high prices

the second wine of the Château was a delightful accompaniment and a wonderful match. Onwards and upwards, in the dining room of the Château, I was very surprised to see an Asian-influenced menu. To start, delicious, succulent ginger and chilli prawns with the 2006 Château Climens. An almost perfect match with the sweetness of the prawns and the ginger/spice notes in the wine being accentuated. The next course was cold shredded chicken and sesame over a kimchi-style salad. The 2002 Climens again was near perfect with this dish. At no point did it taste cloying or sickly sweet. Sweet and spicy pork belly went marvellously with the 1996 Climens – the richness of the aged wine along with the zippy acidity still present, provided a lesson in how food and wine pairing truly is an art. Dessert was a berry ice cream served with red berries. A perfect end to a perfect experience. With Bérénice Lurton at the helm, the Union des Grands Crus de Sauternes et Barsac is certainly going to take a new direction – a very modern one. As the Asian market becomes more important – both in terms of potential volume and increasing value (given the rise of personal wealth in the region) – the Sauternais will have to become less fixated on serving their wines only on special occasions. If they want to see more people drinking their wines, they will have to appeal to a more general sensibility. This is something the likes of Bérénice Lurton are already doing remarkably well. One can only hope the rest of the Bordelais will follow suit. The Sauternais are now promoting their wines not as ‘dessert’wines but as ‘sweet’ wines that can and should be enjoyed like any other wine, throughout the meal and not just at the end. And if they can match their wines to lightly spiced Chinese food, there is nothing stopping these wines from being enjoyed in India, as accompaniments to delicately and thoughtfully spiced Indian cuisine.• Intensely sweet grape syrup is fermented to produce wine

Harshal Shah is a WSET-qualified trainer and Sommelier India correspondent based in New Delhi. He also conducts WSET courses for food and beverage personnel in India.

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INTERVIEW

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Girish Mhatre, New York based engineer and businessman, recently launched three wines in Maharashtra – Basso, Brio and Aarohi – produced by his company, Good Earth Winery. Positioning his wines as premium Indian wines for the international market, Mhatre tells Brinda Gill that Indians need to believe they can produce fine wines What made you want to enter the Indian wine industry? From a purely business perspective I wanted to participate in what I think is a very large, long-term opportunity – the growth of the high-end consumer class in India. I toyed with the idea of doing something in consumer technology, either hardware or software. But, after some introspection, I found that I really couldn’t muster enough enthusiasm for that. So, I thought to myself, “What do I love?” I love wine. So there was a match of passion and business. Actually, it’s more passion than business, because I know that it is notoriously difficult to make money on small quantities of wine. But we’re optimistic. I left India in 1971 for graduate studies after finishing under-graduation from IIT, Bombay. I discovered wine and learned to love it. But every time I visited India, I never could find any local wine that I really liked. So I thought of making my own, one I could drink with my friends, both here and abroad. That led to the dream of making something special, something that would be among the best in India, but could also be confidently positioned in the international market. New York based businessman, Girish Mhatre returned to India to produce wine

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Good Earth winemaker, Rajesh Rasal is a micro-biologist with a PhD in oenology

Why wine? Wine is a very special creation, a symbiosis of man’s skills and nature’s vagaries. It is not a beverage to get drunk on, it only incidentally has alcohol. Wine is extremely complex, not just in its layering of tastes, but also in how nature’s creation – grapes – can be moulded to create something quite delightful. Wine was deified in ancient Greece and Rome. Since then, the affairs of men and the affairs of wine have been intertwined for centuries. Now, I know this sounds, ‘New Age’, however, I do feel wine allows you to focus on the present, to enjoy the moment. Of course, it is also a powerful stimulant of memories. Every sniff and sip of wine is a discovery. I have been fascinated with wine and wine culture for a long time. I’ve travelled to vineyards in France, Italy and California, drinking wine and talking wine with winemakers. I think good winemakers are also good philosophers. It is important to understand a winemaker’s philosophy, not just technique.

Have you based your business model on any specific principles? We are working on a process of backward integration. Rather than going from land, grapes, winery to market, we are working in the reverse order. We source grapes from Nashik’s Dindori region, have the wines produced by two wineries in Nashik and focus on brand building.

How do you keep in touch with the entire winemaking process? Dr Rajesh Rasal, a micro-biologist with a PhD in oenology, is our winemaker. He is Pune-based and has about 12 years of experience as a winemaker and as a consultant to different wineries. He is in Nashik every week. I feel it is very important to have a local Indian winemaker – especially a highly talented one like Rajesh – rather than a foreign wine consultant who flies in and out on fixed dates. Rajesh monitors and supervises every aspect of the wine 34 Sommelier INDIA

Acquiring land, growing vines, waiting for the vines to mature, building a physical winery is a long and arduous process production process. That makes all the difference. Rajesh and I are philosophically compatible, so our partnership works well. As a consultant at different wineries Rajesh has made wine according to the preferences of various winery owners. For Good Earth Winery, I asked him to go ahead and make the kind of wines he would like to make.

So, as of now, you do not have your own vineyards or winery? Acquiring land, growing vines, waiting for the vines to mature, building a physical winery is a long and arduous process. To do it right takes at least five years, if not more. We wanted to step into the business sooner than that. So we are following in the tradition of the negociants in Burgundy, who originally did not own any land. However, they had excellent wines produced to their requirements. In that sense, we are a virtual winery.

Are you pleased with the results? Yes, we have produced three varieties – Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. I feel all three are good, especially for the first year. We have produced small quantities, and have been gratified by enthusiastic reactions at our pre-launch events. As we go on we will get greater understanding and control of the processes involved, and will strive to improve the quality further. I have taken our wines for tastings in New York and have had a positive response. This year we are looking at precise viticultural practices and want to craft our wines just right.

Is there an association between your wines and music? Yes, there is an association with music. Although I am not a musician myself, I love Western classical, Indian classical, and, most of all, music that is a fusion of the two. Just as music is about the expression of a soul, of reaching inside and expressing oneself, wine, too, is all about crafting and expressing oneself. I think it is a good parallel, an apt

metaphor. There is a resonance between the creation of music and wine. Our wines are presented under two collections – the Concerto collection, which has the reserves and the Raga collection. Basso, the Cabernet Sauvignon, and Brio, the Shiraz, are aged in oak for a year. The labels also allude to musical instruments, either in their shape or a design element, as does the copy on the label. I believe both the making and drinking of wine are uninhibited expressions of the soul, as is music.

The bottle labels have an understated but attractive character, how did you decide on the design? In New York there are about 7,000 wine brands available to the consumer. Last year, over 800 new brands were added. They say that 40% of wine purchases are decided by the look of the label. But that’s only the tangible product. There is, of course, an entire intangible, emotional and subjective aspect to buying and enjoying wine. We designed a simple, attractive label with the brand name in bold. The grape varietal is not mentioned on the label in front, but in the copy on the back of the bottle. We have consciously stayed away from traditional descriptions that speak of hints of this fruit and that, such as blueberries or blackberries, that Indians generally don’t come across. If you haven’t seen or tasted the fruit, how can you sniff or taste it in a wine? So the brand name is in bold. We want the consumer to say, “I drink Basso”. That also means that in future vintages, the winemaker can tweak the formula by adding a bit of another variety to retain the brand’s distinctive taste. Very often the grape varietal names are difficult for Indians to pronounce correctly. We just wanted to keep it simple. We wanted to demystify it, hopefully to our advantage.

How do you view the Indian wine market? On the consumer front it is heartening to see an increasing number of Indians discovering wines, learning more about wines and learning to appreciate wine. On the production side, there are many producers of wine who are increasingly committed to producing quality wine. I hope they are all successful as it will expand the market and educate palates.

Is your approach different to that of other producers? Broadly speaking, from the production side most wineries function in a push mode – they attempt to ‘push’ their wine through the channel. Because of that there is a tsunami of unsold wine on retailer shelves. I would like to see ourselves more as a pull-model, where we create demand so that consumers come in and ask for our wines. We would also like to create and encourage word-of-mouth advertising. Our wines will be at very select retail outlets in Maharashtra in November. I guess you could call us a maker of ‘cult’ wines.

What do you consider the weakest aspect about wine production in India? Transportation and storage conditions arre generally problematic in India. Very often, wines taste good at the winery, but by the time they reach the consumer, they are damaged. Sustained temperatures of 30°C or more really hurt wine. We are hiring air-conditioned transport to move our wines, and will do business only with those outlets that exercise the right care.

How do you think the market is affected by the duties on imported wines? Unfortunately due to the high tariffs on imported wines, Indians pay a lot for these wines, some of which are simply supermarket wines. Just because they are imported, doesn’t necessarily mean they are quality wines. There seems to be an endemic feeling that if a wine is imported, it is good. We hope to disprove that. We hope we can provide great Indian wines that will displace high-priced, but mediocre, imported wines.

Are you positive about the future? In the 1960s when I was growing up, Indians were content if a cricket match against England or Australia was a draw. Today Indians want to win – not settle for a draw. And this sentiment is not confined to cricket. It’s happening across the business and arts spectrum. It is really heartening to see the emergence of a new generation – of all ages – of confident Indians. I’m hoping that the artistic challenge of creating a world class premium Indian wine will appeal to this new generation.•

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a new art form WINE LABELS

Propelled by New World wineries, the wine label is now becoming an eye catching, competitive, miniaturised work of art, says Carol Wright

he label on a wine bottle is one of the most important sources of information for wine buyers, who mostly select their wine by the label’s appearance. Not only must it draw their eye on crowded shelves but the detailing of country of origin, quality, type of wine, alcohol degree, producer, bottler or importer is often the only way that buyers can evaluate what is in the bottle. There are even some wine labels in Braille to help the visually impaired. Before 1924 wine producers didn’t have to worry much about labelling. All Bordeaux châteaux, for example, sold their wine in barrel to merchants who bottled and labelled it. In 1924, however, Baron Philippe de Rothschild decided to bottle all his production at his château and since then it became the producer’s responsibility to label the wines. Rothschild solved his problem by getting a well-known poster artist, Jean Carlu, to design his first labels. He then established a tradition of commissioning leading painters to

create the label of the year for his wines. The prestigious list of artists includes Cocteau, Braque, Dufy, Chagall, Picasso, Henry Moore and Warhol. One amateur artist was featured in 2004: Prince Charles. Since 1981, the framed originals have formed an international travelling exhibition. Most labels have been traditionally black type on a white ground with perhaps a tiny sketch of the château or vineyard. Surveys in the United States show that younger people think these are stuffy and old-fashioned. Largely propelled by the New World wineries, the wine label is now becoming an eye catching, competitive, miniaturised art form. American wine consultant Doug Frost, one of only three people to be both a sommelier and a Master of Wine, says labels need to be more than the successful combination of art and vintage. “First a wine label has to attract attention. Second, it needs to inform. It needs to tell potential customers what to expect from the wine.” Aimed at the collector, Taittinger champagne is another

Taittinger champagne bottle, designed by Rauschenberg Right: Two contrasting labels in the traditional and modern style

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Ancient and modern, French and Australian approachs to rosé wine labelling

Grover Vineyards launched their Art Collection labels in early 2009

company with a history of commissioning leading artists. Since 1983 when Claude Taittinger thought up the idea, international artists such as Victor Vasarely, Arman, Roy Lichtenstein and, this year, Robert Rauschenberg have created labels for limited editions of 2000 bottles, released each May. Rauschenberg’s label is a collage involving postage stamps and a cockerel astride a church steeple. This October, Taittinger is also changing the 50-year old label designs on its six cuvées. The new labels will be smaller, giving a slimmer, more elegant look and will be colour-coded for the different cuvées. They will be more tactile, with embossing and varnish for extra emphasis and better shelf visibility. Informative back labels feature the family message and a common description of the brand with each cuvée having a dedicated explanatory tasting note.

n India, Grover vineyards launched their Art Collection earlier this year to commemorate the winery’s 20th anniversary. Karan Grover, a noted architect, has many connections with the art and design world. Leading Indian artists were briefed to convey the vision, style and character of Grover – in three square inches! On sale in leading hotels and restaurants across India, the Art Collection includes Sauvignon Blanc with its crisp acidity, matching fish, seafood and light meats, and a label by Rini Dhumal, the colourist. The Viognier, a fruity wine for white meats and spicy dishes, has Paresh Maity focusing on faces. The Cabernet Shiraz’s label is by Sanjay Bhattacharya, who uses vivid colours and a glow to reflect the mysterious depths of the wine. For Shiraz Rosé, Rekha Rodwittya, known for her female figure representations, presents a woman on the label. The Oxford Wine Company sponsored the first competition of its kind in the UK, asking local artists exhibiting at the annual Art Weeks festival to design an 8 x 7 cm label for a Languedoc wine. Runner-up Claire Wright said her label “tried to give an impression of the Languedoc area – sun, sea, history and lovely countryside”. “I also attempted to make it red-wine friendly,” she said. Her thoughts on wine labels in general were that they should be eye-catching, fairly simple in design, denote quality and “be practical in application; that is, easily transferred to a label format”. The main criteria the artist has to consider, she explained, were the type of wine, style of vineyard, locality of vineyard, target market, the name of the wine and its grape. Californian Nova Wines have eye-catching Marilyn Monroe labels

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Changing fashions in wine labels, which have long been popular collectors’ items

The competition winner was abstract artist Christine O’Sullivan who used colours that spoke to her of vineyards. “I didn’t feel there was a need to have vine leaves, etc, as that seemed very dated. A lot of wine labels now have all sorts of images on the labels. For a wine to stand out on retail shelves, a bright abstract image would certainly attract my attention.” Labels are changing from traditional detailed affairs to simpler and briefer messages perhaps including landscapes or crests to give the impression of tradition and quality. Some wineries like Château Simone haven’t changed their labels in 60 years, others change every year. Increasingly, many try and stand out by putting non-intimidating, playful, quirky names and designs on the labels. Examples include Fat Bastard, a French Chardonnay popular in the States; Scraping the Barrel, a Spanish Tempranillo sold in the UK which has a no-nonsense back label stating it’s good with chips and gravy. Bloody Good White from California depicts a tiger with a wicked grin licking its lips (having just consumed a white man). Californian Nova Wines use sexy Marilyn Monroe images on their Marilyn Merlot label and each vintage features a different Monroe image under licence from the star’s estate. For a wine with a difficult-topronounce grape like Hungary’s Cserzegi Fuszeres – a Gewürztraminer cross made at Neszmely winery – a label was created calling it The Unpronounceable Grape – far more effective than a bland brand name. For the record, the grape is pronounced Chair-Sheggi Foo-Share-Us. Other trends are to make use of 38 Sommelier INDIA

unusually shaped labels like the colourful flower blossom which is used for Blossom Hill’s rosé from Australia. Using the winery’s name and location to inspire the label led Australia’s Cumulus winery to use nostalgic-looking pictures. Their Rolling label was inspired by the rolling hills of the estate and shows a girl on an old style bicycle wearing a local football scarf. This is for an unoaked Chardonnay Shiraz and a Sparkling Pinot Grigio Chardonnay. An 1896 poster advertising a Swiss Hawaiian climbing circus is used for their Climbing labels – Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and Pink Shiraz rosé. It emphasises the 600metre-plus altitude of the vineyards and features an extinct volcano in the background. Not just artists, even couturiers are being used to design labels, this time for Chivas Regal whisky. Following Alexander McQueen and interior designer Andrée Putnam, Christian Lacroix has created a label using laser metallisation techniques for the Chivas 12 Magnum, a global limited edition of 15,000 which was released in October. Lacroix said his idea was a mirror, with crests and heraldic patterns engraved on it, representing a treasure casket. Wine labels have long been collectors’ items and preserved in albums to remind drinkers of what they liked – although strong modern glues make it more difficult to remove the labels intact. One person to whom a large supply of wine labels is essential is Valentine Monticello, a former sommelier in London, now an artist, who creates his works entirely from collages of wine labels. His art can be seen in the appropriate settings of Vinopolis in London and Il Molino di Grace, a vineyard in Italy’s Chianti region.•

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“When the Chaîne, in its modern format, was conceived in 1950, wine wasn’t as high on its list of priorities”

The first members of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Bangalore baillaige 2008

GOURMETS OF INDIA REJOICE!

THE CHAÎNE IS HERE! For many Indians, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs has only been a name in international gourmet magazines – until now. Ruma Singh describes the Chaine’s debut in India

At a Chaîne event, wines are paired with luxury foods from different cuisines 40 Sommelier INDIA

scargots de Bourgogne au Beurre et Ail Persillé with a Domaine Laroche Chablis St Martin 2006. Boeuf Bourguignon aux Petits Oignons et Jardinière de Légumes, Coq au Vin or Légumes de Petit Farcis aux Saveurs du Midi with a Matteo Correggia Rocche D’Amsej Nebbiolo 2003….. ” These excerpts from a recent Bastille Day celebration menu are not from a Parisian restaurant, but were the dishes served to members at an event hosted by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs at Toscano, a fine dining restaurant in Bangalore. It was only last year that the international gastronomic society, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, very quietly and discreetly launched their India operations in Bangalore. With just 50 members drawn from the city’s top food and wine lovers, Anja Matysik-Kroll, Chargée de Missions, commenced setting up the gourmet organisation in India with her husband, Manfred Matysik, Bailli Honoraire or Honorary President. There followed a series of successful dinner events where the host restaurants pulled out all the stops to present dream meals, with hand-picked wines paired with luxury foods in a variety of cuisines. Now, after the launch, Matysik-Kroll has announced her intention of setting up additional chapters or bailliages in Mumbai and Delhi. What makes the Chaîne special is its unique international network. A member of one Chaîne bailliage can attend a Chaîne event in any other bailliage in the world, from London to Paris to Stockholm. The events present the best cuisines and wines and it has become something of an honour for a restaurant to be selected to play host to a Chaîne event, explains Manfred Matysik. The Chaîne website, which lists a calendar of international events, and a magazine help to link all members and their activities. Not surprisingly, membership to the Chaîne is much sought after and not easily accessible. Top hospitality executives, chefs and “the cream of society” are invited to become members. “In Bangalore, 60 per cent of our members are industry professionals,” says Matysik-Kroll. “We select our non-

Left: Good food and wine are the raison d’être of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Above: Rishad Minocher, Vice Chancelier, Baillage de Bangalore; Chef Jean Michel Jasserand, Vice-Conseiller Culinaire; Nimish Bhatia, Executive Chef, The Lalit Ashok; Arindam Kunar, GM, The Taj West End

Natarajan Viswanathan; Sandeep Kachroo, Executive Chef, Taj Exotice, Sri Lanka; and Kripal Amanna, Vice-Chargé de Presse, Baillage de Bangalore, in formal attire with the Chaîne ribbon

Anja Matysik Kroll, Chargée de Mission pictured with Manfred G Matysik, Bailli Honoraire at a Chaîne event in Bangalore

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FACT FILE • This centuries-old association of gourmets is headquartered in Paris with a presence in 60 countries and a membership of over 25,000. • The Chaîne is said to have been established in the Middle Ages as a guild to promote art, music and culture. The forerunner of the modern-day Chaîne was the Guild of Spit-Roasters or Les Ayeurs, constituted in 1248 by King Louis of France. This is reflected in its emblem. • Members are required to wear the Chaîne ribbon at all Chaîne events. Different coloured ribbons denote various specialisations – for instance, a wine professional, a chef, etc. There are 23 such medallions and ribbons. • For more information on the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in India, contact Anja Matysik-Kroll at chaineindia@yahoo.com and say you read about it in Sommelier India. Ista chef, Manav Koul and team give the finishing touches to the pan-fried foie gras, served on toasted brioche, with star anise and saffron-spiced pear chutney

professional members carefully. They must be established in society – people who appreciate good food, the best wine and enjoy cuisines from around the world.” This is important because the Chaîne grows as a result of the fellowship and feedback of its members. Part of the appeal of the Chaîne is its ceremonial rituals, established over decades. New members are formally invested with the Chaîne ribbon at an annual gala dinner hosted by the bailliage. The induction to the Chaîne is done by a senior member of the Chaîne Board, who comes down specially for the event. The investiture, which requires formal dress or black tie, is somewhat akin to the conferring of a knighthood. Thereafter, members are invited to attend a variety of events hosted by their bailliage, from black tie dinners to more informal evenings. But even here, a dress code is strictly enforced. “No jeans, ever,” emphasizes Matysik-Kroll. When the Chaîne, in its modern format, was conceived in 1950, wine wasn’t high on its list of priorities. “It was in about 1963 that the Chaîne established L’Ordre Mondial to give the pairing of wine with food top priority,” says Matysik-Kroll. The Ordre, a sub-organisation under the Chaîne’s umbrella, is an association of winemakers, grape growers and wine educators focused on networking on all matters related to wine – such as organising wine tastings and competitions in bailliages around the world. To encourage professionals to take to the wine trade, the Chaîne instituted a worldwide contest – the Jeune Sommelier or Young Sommelier Award in 2007. 42 Sommelier INDIA

“Every bailliage gets the opportunity to participate in this contest,” explains Matysik-Kroll. “The best Jeune Sommelier (21 to 35 years) from India, for instance, gets the chance to compete in a worldwide contest.” The next target in the Chaîne’s expansion plans is Mumbai. Delhi will follow, then perhaps, Kolkata. “But it all depends on finding the right people to take it forward,” says Matysik-Kroll. “We must trust them to enforce the objectives of the Chaîne, its spirit and rules. We won’t expand without the right people.” Finding the right people, and fine restaurants and top-class Indian hotels to host events might perhaps be less difficult than accessing the right wines, Matysik-Kroll admits. “But we are very hopeful. In 10 years we think India will have the most bailliages in the world. It’s a country of high potential with a growing economy, and the trend towards fine dining and luxury is growing.” With the establishment of an international gourmet organization like the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, India will well and truly arrive on the international culinary map. As MatysikKroll says, “The Chaîne propagates the culinary arts and good fellowship. We can certainly say we are very special.” • Ruma Singh is a lifestyle journalist with a passion for food, wine and the good life. She is a Sommelier India correspondent based in Bangalore and the current president of the Bangalore Wine Club

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THE LURE OF THE LANGUEDOC Independent wine producers from different walks of life around the world have brought enormous vitality and energy to the region. Rosemary George meets some of these newcomers

The attractions of the Languedoc are immediate. This is the New World of France, where everything is possible, and there is so much to discover he face of winemaking in the Languedoc has changed enormously in the last decade or so. Not so long ago wine production was dominated by the village cooperatives. Almost every village had a cooperative to which all the small growers delivered their grapes, and most of the resulting wine was sold in bulk rather than bottle to the large merchants or

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nĂŠgociants whose activities dominated the region. But things have changed, and for the better. Many of the less successful nĂŠgociants who have not been able to keep abreast of the pace of change have gone out of business. And many of the less successful cooperatives have joined forces with other neighbouring cooperatives in an attempt to minimise their costs of production. The disappearance of

a cooperative can have quite a drastic impact on a village, as more often than not, in this rural community it provides the main source of livelihood for much of the village. The best cooperatives are well aware of the importance of their role in the village economy and work very hard to maintain their position. Happily, to balance the disappearance of négociants and cooperatives, there has been a veritable proliferation of independent vine growers with a keen quality motive. Many of these are newcomers to the region. They may come from other parts of France, or they may come from overseas, but together they bring an enormous vitality and energy to the region. The attractions of the Languedoc are immediate. This is the New World of France, where everything is possible, and there is so much to discover. Graham Nutter of Château St. Jacques d’Albas is a case in point. He fell in love with wine, as a young man driving through France, when he was entertained by the legendary Thierry Manoncourt at Château Figeac. Several years later, after a successful career in the City of London, he was looking for a vineyard of his own. He wanted something near a town – in this case, the wonderful city of Carcassonne – on a quiet country road, outside the village of Laure-Minervois, where there was the potential to make great wine. And he had what the French call a coup de coeur, when he saw Château St. Jacques d’Albas. It is a property with a long history of winemaking, maybe going back to Roman times, but more immediately the previous owners had been content to send their grapes to the village cooperative. The purchase certainly represented a challenge for Nutter, and he readily admits that he underestimated both time and cost. The vineyards needed attention, for they had previously been cultivated with quantity rather than quality in mind. There was no working cellar, but a wonderful large barn waiting to be converted into a winery, and it was also necessary to extricate the vineyards from the contract tying them to the village cooperative. John Hegarty at Domaine Chamans outside the village of Trausse-Minervois is a highly successful advertising

Graham Nutter of Château St. Jacques d’Albas

executive in London. He too has succumbed to the charms of the Languedoc. And he enthused about the freedom that the region offers. This is the place where you can do things. He explained that working in advertising, you are used to dealing with ephemera, wondering what’s next. A vineyard cannot be more diametrically opposed. Once a year God is in charge, and you must be patient. It’s a complete contrast to dealing with impatient clients. Hegarty admits to a moment of madness. He had no five-year-plan when he bought his property. He is an urban boy who always wanted a place in the countryside, but he also wanted to contribute something to that place and leave it better than when he found it. For that reason he is an ardent exponent of biodynamic viticulture. ob Dougan, an Australian composer, best known for the music of the film, “The Matrix”, is the creator of a new estate, La Pèira, outside St Saturnin in the Terrasses du Larzac. We are going to hear a lot more about the Terrasses du Larzac. It covers the northern hills of the Languedoc, with a variety of different soils, and most important of all, it enjoys a big difference between night and daytime temperatures, so that the grapes retain their acidity, with a resulting freshness in the wine. Dougan places great emphasis on the freedom that you are allowed in the Languedoc. He was not the only new producer to observe that land is still affordable here. Virtually everywhere else is too expensive and has already been discovered. There are no established references in the Languedoc. In Bordeaux everyone is doing the same thing. You know what grape varieties you have to plant and although there may be subtle differences from one

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Photos: Courtesy Domaine de Chamans

château to another, essentially all the wines are made in the same way. Dougan’s estate manager, Jérémie Depierre, observed how viticulture and winemaking in the Languedoc have improved enormously in recent years, but there is still much to learn, particularly about the ageing potential of the wines. Traditionally they were not made to last. The classic Languedoc cellar was above ground; insulation was not possible and enormous casks rather than small barrels were used to store the wine. The use of small oak barrels is becoming increasingly common in the area, but oak needs to be treated with care. Sometimes the oak-aged wines are clumsy and the use of oak excessive, but often that stems from inexperience. There is only one cooper in the region, unlike Bordeaux or Burgundy. The Languedoc also appeals to wine growers in northern France. Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot are a Burgundian couple who have bought vineyards in the Minervois. Anne explained that she and her husband both work for different family estates in Burgundy, but they wanted to create a vineyard of their own, which is impossible to do in Burgundy. The cost of land and vineyards is simply too expensive. They love the wines of the south, the Rhône valley and Provence, and although they looked there, they could not find what they wanted, and then chance took them to the Minervois where, after two days of visiting vineyards, they came upon a plot outside the village of

John Hegarty, a former advertising executive and Philippa Crane, co-proprietor

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Bize-Minervois, and it was love at first sight. Anne admits that it has been hard work, driving down from the Côte d’Or to work in the vineyards every weekend. But it has also been a great adventure. She is particularly excited by Carignan, a grape variety that is quite unknown in Burgundy, and often decried in the Languedoc, but now enjoying something of a renaissance. They will be bottling their first wines in November, four different cuvées based on different plots in their eight hectares. There are Bordelais, too, who have invested in the Languedoc. The Sichel family have been producing wines at Domaine du Trillol in the appellation of Corbières since 1989. Eric Fabre bought the historic estate of La RivièreHaute in La Clape, as well as the adjoining property of Rivière-le-Bas, and now produces finely crafted wines under the label of Château d’Anglès. Chateau Sérame, with vineyards in both Minervois and Corbières, belongs to the large Bordelais négociants, Dourthe. The previous managing director, Jean-Marie Chardonnier, was looking to expand their activities further afield and rejected a possible investment in South America in favour of the enormous potential of the Languedoc. These are just a tiny selection of the many newcomers to the Languedoc who have realised its extraordinary viticultural wealth. THey have settled here because they are attracted by the pioneering spirit of the region, where there is so much to discover and everything is possible.•

WINE AND food

Let your palate be your guide “Growing up, food and wine matching to me was as foreign and exotic as a snowstorm in Tamil Nadu – not only did I not know anything about it, I didn’t even know it existed as a concept,” writes Alejandro Ortiz as he explains the fundamentals of ‘matching’ and ‘pairing’

was a Puerto Rican who grew up in Miami. The adults drank most meals with beer or the occasional cocktail while we kids were happily sedated with copious amounts of that ubiquitous product of the Sunshine State: orange juice. It was only years later, in New York, that I fell in love with wine. In those days, working in the kitchen of one of Manhattan’s most esteemed restaurants, on a particularly slow night, I gazed out of the kitchen door to see the carefully orchestrated dance of a sommelier recommending a bottle of wine to one of our fussiest guests. The sommelier, a woman (women, I contend have a better sense of smell and therefore better, more attuned palates) had brought out a bottle of beautiful Meursault, a heady and thoroughly delicious Chardonnay from the Burgundy region of France, when the gentleman re-opened his menu and pointed at what I presumed was a different entrée than the one he had originally ordered. The sommelier smiled and quickly scudded back to the cellar and brought out an entirely different wine, this time a red. Later that evening I asked her what that whole episode had been about. “Easy,” she said, a bit dismissively. “They had ordered the black sea-bass with saffron risotto but then changed their minds to the monkfish so I brought them out an Oregon Pinot Noir instead…” It was that simple really, but I still had no idea what the hell she was talking about, but I knew I was intrigued. Why would a simple switch from sea bass to monkfish constitute shifting from France to the austere remoteness of the northwestern corner of the United States and the voluptuousness of New World Pinot Noir if both items were fish? Why would monkfish, wrapped with pancetta, seared and topped with a spoonful of lentil ragout with foie gras not merit a white wine? Eventually, I would find out precisely why.

There is nothing more deliciously satisfying than eating fried snacks, whether fish and chips or pakoras, with a nice cold beer. The effervescence of the beer lifts the fat off the palate and refreshes the taste buds between every crispy, succulent bite. But this is not ‘pairing’ not in its ‘true’ form. There is a difference between say, chasing food with a particular beverage that happens to be nice (like beer with nearly everything, lassi with masala or a cold Coca-Cola with a burger and fries), and ‘matching’ or ‘pairing’. For our purposes here we will define ‘matching’ or ‘pairing’ very simply: the wine makes the food taste better and the food makes the wine taste better. The key word here is ‘better’ as opposed to ‘different’; a mouthful of fresh chillies (or anything Thai for that matter) followed by a tannic Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux will certainly make both of them different, but in a very awful, acrid way. To be precise, the capsaicin in the chilli, the actual compound which makes chillies spicy, reacts chemically with astringent tannins inherent in big red wines to produce a taste and sensation in the mouth not unlike sucking on metal or chewing on aluminum foil. Pairing is an art form, not a science, and while some people do it well, few – pros included – do it exceptionally well. The difference between a good pairing and a great pairing can approach a mildly religious experience; but few ever reach it. Attempts have of course, been made to arrive at a formulaic consensus, ‘white wines with white meat and red wines with red…’ and so on. These are handy and a great starting point, but what happens when chicken (a white meat) is char-roasted in a tandoor, giving it a slight smokiness that is enlivened by masala? Sure some whites will do well (buttery chardonnay or big Alsatian pinot gris), but some reds are better able to tackle the heartiness of a murg tikka (Petit

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Photo courtesy: The Aman New Delhi

Indian cuisine has complex, multi-layered flavours

“Pairing is an art form, not a science, and while some people do it well, few (pros included) do it exceptionally well. The difference between a good pairing and a great pairing can approach a mildly religious experience; but few ever reach it” Syrah, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Grenache etc). What happens when the meat in question, whether mutton or otherwise, is simply cooked and tossed with coriander, lime juice, freshly sliced onions, fish sauce and a hint of chillies? The inherent qualities of a red wine would clash unabashedly, like a stand-up comedian in a funeral,

or every rule there is an exception, especially in wine, nothing is solidly black or white, but shades of grey. There are, of course, a couple of tricks to keep in mind:

1. Like with like: the terroir-food principle Sancerre is a small village on the east of the Loire river in eastern France. Fourteen villages are allowed to make the wine labeled, Sancerre and always, if white, only made from Sauvignon Blanc. One of those villages happens to be the village of Chavignol, home of the world-famous hockey puck-shaped goat cheese – Crottin de Chavignol which developed around the traditional flavours of the surrounding area’s wines and, conversely the wine was made within the context of the prevailing food culture and its flavours. Which is to say that there is no better pairing in the world than a beautiful Crottin de Chavignol with a steely and flinty Sancerre. Of course this can be extended to say that Sauvigon Blancs do very well with goat cheese 48 Sommelier INDIA

with the acidity of the lime juice and the overall ‘green’ flavours of the coriander. This is white wine territory all the way (Gruner Veltliner, Australian Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, white Bordeaux, quirky Italian whites, et al). Keep an open mind, experiment, hit and miss but remember, all wines pair well with conversation and friends.

overall; no matter where the cheese or the Sauvignon Blanc are from. What is the best wine with a Tuscan steak? Tuscan wine. What does one best pair with Shnitzel and knodel? German or Austrian wines, etc. In Alsace the diet consists of mostly sausages, sauerkraut and foie gras, the wines of the surrounding Alsatian countryside pair with its food, naturally, seamlessly. The context of where the wine is from and the surrounding food will tell you most of what you need to know about a successful pairing or at least which elements in the wines go best with it.

2. Zero-in on the dominant flavours Indian cuisine is characterized by its complex and layered flavours, contrasting and complementing each other. In short, there’s a lot happening. The same goes true of many cuisines in Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean. It is futile to then try and complement all the various flavours in a dish to the wine with 100% accuracy; instead focus

on the dish’s dominant flavour. If the dominant flavour is the char from the grill then match the wine to that. If the dominant flavor is tomato or garlic, or even particular spices, then match the wine to that – this will yield a much higher degree of success.

7. The chilli conundrum

If the food is very complex and incredibly multi-layered, choose a simpler wine. If the dish is rather simple with one or two dominant flavours then the wine should be multilayered, expressive and complex; otherwise both compete and none win. Think: a buttery, deep, profound and ethereal Chardonnay with a biryani or a simple but delicious, fruity and spice-laden red Zinfandel or Shiraz with a tandoori raan.

The enemy: capsaicin. There is almost no getting around this. The decision for me is made at the onset, especially when I’m in South East Asia. Either a) eat spicy and love it or b) have it mild and enjoy wine with it. Otherwise the local beer will suffice. Chillies, black pepper, etc, react with the tannins of red wine, often making the wine taste metallic and the food even spicier. There are very few instances where the two worlds, spicy and vinous, can meet happily. See my comment, above, about tandoori raan with Shiraz or Zinfandel. The trick here is ‘perceptual sweetness’ or, in other words, ‘fruitiness’. If you absolutely must eat very, very spicy, and insist on drinking wine with it, then opt for wines that are fruitier and off-dry to sweet. The sweetness balances out the chillies. A Sauternes (the sweet wine from the southern region of Bordeaux in France can be wonderful with very spicy food – believe it or not) and the heat of chillies makes the wine less sweet. But no matter what, eat ‘chilli’ and drink at your own risk!

5. Complement before contrast

8. Experiment…

It is easier to complement the wine with the food than to contrast it, although contrasting yields the greatest pleasure. If the dish has citrus flavours then the wine should too (think: Sauvignon Blanc). If the wine has hints of cinnamon and gaminess in the nose, then the food should too (think: lamb). A contrast is a much harder manoeuvre and definitely fraught with risk but worth it if done right, for example, a Chardonnay with mushroom risotto.

Remember, if at first you fail, try, try, try again. One of my most wonderful food and wine memories was with the indomitable Sanjay Menon at Dum Pukht ordering dish after dish, surrounded by nearly a dozen bottles of wine; from super-Tuscans to obscure Spanish wines… and the wine pairings were great! There are many, many wines which go very well with Indian food, ditto for Thai, Indonesian, Chinese, etc. You just have to try. Burmese lobster bisque? Madeira. Butter chicken? HUGE Chardonnay or a Clos Coulee de la Serrant (an odd little wine from the Loire Valley’s famous Nicolas Joly). French fries? Champagne! The sky is the limit.

3. Pink with Pink Shrimp, roast beef sandwiches, and certain sushi and sashimi (think salmon and hamachi) is beautiful with dry rosé.

4. The simple vs complex rule

6. Wine enemies with food There are just certain things in food, whether they are compounds or enzymes or otherwise, which have a negative effect on the taste of wine. There are some foods you simply can’t pair (kind of) and you just need to accept it. Wine enemies are things like artichokes, asparagus, excessive acidity (salad? Forget it!), chillies, and sweetness (like dessert). Dessert wines are the exception, but here, the wine needs to be sweeter than the dessert for it to work. There is only one wine in the world that can tackle artichokes, asparagus and chillies without a problem, and that is the darling of the moment, dry fino or manzanilla sherry!

9. Follow and trust your palate In everything, whether a novice or an expert, your palate will let you know whether you have landed on liquid gold, or liquid lead. Trust yourself, your palate is your guide and will seldom let you down. At the end of the day it does not matter what I say, or what any of the world’s often self-righteous wine experts purport to know. What matters is that you like it. So if you want to eat fried chillies with a bottle of Cheval Blanc, be my guest, but don’t say I didn’t warn you!•

FIVE OF MY FAVOURITE PAIRINGS Hot and Salty French Fries

Champagne, preferably Krug, Jaquesson or anything with a bit of ‘body’.

Spicy Tuna Roll

Rosé d’Anjou or Tavel or any other, um, masculine, dry rosé.

Chicken Tikka

Big new world Chardonnay; California or Australia

Hamburger

Syrah, Shiraz, Grenache, or Zinfandel

Life

Champagne – for everything, always Champagne

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INTERNTAIONAL wine news

VINOVIP, CORTINA

WINE TASTING WITH THE EAGLES Michèle Shah was invited to a VIP weekend to taste some of Italy’s top wine

brands at an exhilarating altitude

never stop admiring Italy for its sheer diversity and creativity! At the beginning of September, this year, I was invited to Cortina d’Ampezzo, one of Italy’s ‘jetset’ ski resorts in the Dolomites, which boasts some of Italy’s best slopes and a famous glacier, Marmolada, where one can even enjoy skiing in summer. The Dolomites, recently declared a UNESCO World

Tasting at altitude: The Dolomites are among the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world 50 Sommelier INDIA

Heritage Site is one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world. Every second year, Italy’s wine magazine, Civiltà del Bere in partnership with Veronafiere (Vinitaly) organizes a VIP weekend which involves tasting some of Italy’s top wine brands at an exhilarating altitude. The chosen venue, Hotel Miramonti Majestic, a historic hotel named after the magnificent views overlooking the

VinoVip’s “Tasting with the Eagles” showcased some 58 well-known and well respected names

surrounding Dolomites, was in tune with the event. In its hey day, during the 50s and 60s this hotel was known to host a number of VIP guests, such as European royalty as well as cinema stars of the Greta Garbo era. VinoVip’s “Tasting with the Eagles” which takes place in the Faloria Mountain Refuge at 2,100 metres showcased some 58 well-known and well respected names. Just to mention a few: Franco Biondi Santi, Michele Chiarlo, Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Pio Cesare, Tenuta San Guido, Ca’ del Bosco, Umani Ronchi, Carpenè Malvolti, Lungarotti, Masi, Mastroberardino, Alois Lageder, Rivera, Jermann, Donnafugata, Marchesi Antinori, Tasca d’Almerita, Allegrini, Banfi, Barbi and a host more. It is not every day that one enjoys such a spectacular backdrop to a tasting venue and I was curious to find out more about the background to the event and how and why it was established. Alessandro Torcoli, CEO of Civiltà del Bere explained that like many other sectors, Italy’s big wine brands wanted to get together and generate a brainstorming event on current hot issues, just like the economic forums at Davos. “To be admitted and selected the producers need to be represented in at least 40 foreign markets,” explained Torcoli. “We started off seven years ago with the producers of Italy’s top 20 brands who remain the founding members. Each year we have a fresh change-over and each year newcomers are generated by the themed tastings which focus on different regions.” The main attraction for the consumer is the tasting of the Eagles at the Faloria Mountain Refuge at 2,100 metres, which is open to the public and each year opens its doors to almost 1,000 visitors. This year’s 7th edition of VinoVip opened with an animated discussion and debate on the on-going changes in the global wine world and how these affect Italy’s wine production. The key points touched on current issues such as globalization, marketing, new markets and wine consumption. Talking to some of the experts and wine critics

attending the event it was clear that there was a real risk of standardization in taste with the international taste profile, which requires red wines to be round and soft in tannins and sweet and spiced in flavour. While Italy has 20 different regions of production and some 400 registered indigenous grape varieties, it is all too possible that in a blind tasting you may find the same taste profile for a Teroldego from Trentino as for a Corvina from Veneto. “It is essential that distinctions prevail within indigenous grape profiles, and that the identity of grape varieties remains at the forefront of the wine. Far too often the real identity and true character of a wine is masked by the use of too much wood, spice and cellar techniques,” commented David Cobbold, wine journalist and critic from France and SI contributor. The debate moved on to Italy’s exports, which are currently dwindling. Italy’s wine production is today worth some 13 billion euros, of which 3.5 billion euros represent its export market. However, the first three months of 2009 saw a significant drop in Italy’s exports compared to figures in 2008. The first quarter of 2009 showed a 9.2% fall in value in exports compared to the same period in 2008, while in volume for the same period the fall of 0.03% was not so noticeable. “What Italy needs is to be more focused and aggressive in its marketing, and open up to new growing economies such as China and India,” commented Piero Antinori of Marchesi Antinori who is one of the founder members and flag bearer to Italy’s wine exports worldwide. Marchesi Antinori was one of the first pioneers to believe in the Indian wine market. This year the themed tastings, set out in the magnificent banqueting hall of Hotel Miramonti Majestic, focused on Friuli (a wine producing region in the northeast of Italy) featuring their white Friulano. Starting from this year, for legal reasons one of the most popular and historic Italian wines has had to change its name. “And now... we speak Friulano” Thus the name ‘Friulano’ has taken the place of

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Francesco Planeta

Domenico Zonin of Zonin estate and Federica Pecorari of Lis Neris estate in Friuli

to a short passage in oak. Extra character given by the use of old clones. Long elegant finish. Federica Pecorari (Lis Neris) Fiore di Campo, IGT Venezia Giulia 2008 85% Friulano, 10% Sauvignon, 5% Riesling Complex nose with fresh grassy notes mingled with citrus and freshly ground green pepper. Very clean and crisp on the palate, elegant cool wine which is fermented and aged in stainless steel vats to keep its freshness. Roberto Felluga of Marco Felluga estate and Ornella Venica of Venica & Venica Estate both in Friuli

‘Tocai’ on the label. It has been almost a painful, heartrending change for Friuli producers and consumers alike. Looking on the bright side, changes often bring improvements, and in this case it can be said that some producers took the opportunity to revisit their ‘Tocai’ wines, producing some excellent, polished, modern versions of ‘Friulano’. Friulano is one of the traditional wines of Friuli coming from a range of appellation areas: Aquilea DOC; Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC; Collio DOC. Generally speaking, it is a wellstructured wine with harmonious, fruit-led complexity. The range of aromas include citrus peel, star fruit, golden apple, elderberry flower, almond, walnut, hints of orange blossom, white peach, sage, thyme, wisteria and white pepper. On the palate it is balanced, elegant and slightly salty, with nice acidity and harmonious fruit and mineral notes. It is characterized by a typical bitter almond aftertaste. The guided Friulano 2008 tasting featured 11 wines that were personally presented by their producers illustrating the individual nuances that give each wine its own identity. To pick out my top three proved a very difficult task. Sergio Bortolusso (Bortolusso), Friulano Friuli Annia DOC 2008. 100% Friulano Elegant, aromatic nose with ripe honey and yellow flowers, tropical in character. On the palate crisp, with great depth and minerality with a very long fragrant almond finish. Roberto Felluga (Russiz Superiore) 100% Friulano Complex nose with floral and fruity peach notes. Evident minerality with uplifting acidity and structured body, due 52 Sommelier INDIA

he second tasting “I love you Sicily: a Land that can speak any language in the world” focused on Sicilian wines made specifically from international varieties which, thanks to its balanced Mediterranean climate, show great ripeness and character. Sicily is considered neither an island nor a region, but a veritable continent because of its environmental, climatic and soil conditions. For this very reason, the Sicilian producers believe that grape varieties from all over the world can find their ideal natural habitat in Sicily. The 11 wines, again presented by their producers included a range of wines made from: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Mondeuse, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Viognier. Again it was difficult to select only three top wines:

Mariangela Cambria (Cottanera), L’Ardenza, IGT Sicilia 2006. Made from 100% Mondeuse and grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. Elegant, complex nose with notes of tobacco, red berries, crushed red pepper and spice. On the palate structured with bold, concentrated upfront fruit and a juicy finish. Francesco Planeta (Planeta) Merlot IGT Sicilia, 2004 Fresh, ripe, juicy fruit with lots of crushed red berries. Wellintegrated oak, fresh and vibrant on the palate with hints of spice and balsamic notes. Balanced, very elegant and silky finish. Giuseppe Tasca (Tasca d’Almerita), Regaleali, Cabernet Sauvignon, IGT Sicilia, 2006 nd vibrant on the palate with hints of spice and balsamic Typical varietal nose with crushed berry and spicy notes. Vibrant, elegant, warm and round on the palate, ripe, balanced with a great fruity kick and long smooth finish.•

INTERNATIONAL FOOD & DRINK EXPO INDIA 2009 WILL TAKE PLACE:

2 - 4 December, Hall 11, Pragati Maidan Exhibition Grounds, New Delhi, India www.indiafooddrinkexpo.com

INTERNATIONAL FOOD & DRINK EXPO INDIA 2009!

LEADING THE FLAVOUR REVOLUTION! International Food & Drink Expo India 2009 is THE must attend event for food, drink and hospitality professionals. This newly launched trade show is an undisputed opportunity for both international and local producers to showcase their products to India’s high quality decision makers and buyers.

WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT: The INTERNATIONAL FOOD & DRINK EXPO INDIA 2009 will showcase companies from all over the world, as well as local suppliers based in India. By visiting the show you will be able to meet with them and also attend the following dedicated wine attractions INDIAN SOMMELIER CHAMPIONSHIP: India’s ONLY professional Sommelier Championship will be conducted by the Institute of Wine + Beverage Studies (IWBS). Watch the finalists being tested at both theory and practical levels, by an expert panel of judges. WINE TASTINGS: Magandeep Singh and his skilled team of wine professionals at Wi-Not Beverage Solution Pvt Ltd will deliver a three day programme of creative tastings, designed to demonstrate the variety of wines on display at the show.

To register to attend please go to www.indiafooddrinkexpo.com/visit

WHY YOU SHOULD EXHIBIT: • NETWORK - meet India’s food, hospitality and retail buyers face-to-face • RAISE YOUR PROFILE – showcase your products and build brand awareness to position your business at the forefront of the industry • GENERATE SALES LEADS - build your contact database in a live environment • RESEARCH THE MARKET - increase your knowledge! Get immediate feedback on your products and their performance • To find out more about exhibiting, go to

www.indiafooddrinkexpo.com/exhibit WANT TO KNOW MORE? For more information please visit our website: www.indiafooddrinkexpo.com

WINE primer

Choosing the right glass Part of the pleasure of drinking wine is the kind of glass you use. In fact, the glass has an enormous bearing on how the wine tastes

he glass you use to drink wine actually makes a big difference in how the wine tastes. One of the best things you can do to make people enjoy the wine you serve is to serve the wine in quality glasses. The best wine glasses are:

• Transparent: One of the pleasures of wine is enjoying its colour and clarity. The best wine glasses are clear. • Long-stemmed: Stems allow you to hold the glass away from the actual wine, ensuring that the heat from your hand doesn’t warm the wine. • Thin-lipped: A thin, properly formed lip directs the wine to the correct areas of your tongue, accentuating the flavours of the wine. A badly formed lip makes a wine taste harsher than it actually is. • Crystal: The best stemware isn’t called ‘crystal’ just to make it sound fancy. It really is made from crystal. Crystal is better than glass for serving wine because crystal is a rougher material. The roughness generates friction against the pouring wine that helps aerate the wine and release its flavour and aroma.

How to choose Wine Glasses Wine glasses come in a multitude of shapes. One company alone makes 64 different kinds – a glass for nearly every type of wine. Though that’s a bit extreme even for the most demanding wine connoisseur, serious wine drinkers tend to own at least four different types. 54 Sommelier INDIA

• White wine glass: Glasses for white wine should be small (about 10 oz). The small size limits surface area, which in turn prevents the wine from warming quickly. • Bordeaux glass: Tulip-shaped Bordeaux glasses work well with ‘big’, rich, and intense red wines. Because they’re larger than white wine glasses, they give the wine’s bouquet room to develop. • Burgundy glass: Though bigger in size than Bordeaux glasses, Burgundy glasses are actually for ‘smaller’, subtler wines such as Pinot Noir. The larger glass size gives the wine’s bouquet even more room to develop. • Champagne flute: These glasses are long and narrow to control the bubbles in Champagne and other sparkling wines. Rather than buy all four, many people choose instead to buy only two types of wine glass: white wine glasses and Bordeaux glasses. If you want to buy just one type of wine glass and use it for all sorts of wine, the most versatile is the Bordeaux glass.

How to Wash Crystal Stemware Because crystal is rougher than glass, it tends to absorb aromas and needs special cleaning care – which means it must be washed by hand, not in the dishwasher. Wash the stemware both before and after use in hot sudsy water. The best way to test if it’s clean is to smell it: if you smell nothing, it’s ready to use; if you smell something, it’s back to the suds.•

Stone Water Grill restaurant for fine dining in Pune Bottom: Executive Chef Shailendra Kekade tosses a fresh salad

Stone Water Grill: At one with the elements matrix of lounge seating, water bodies and subtly lit trees spreads out in a sunken space as you descend the steps to Stone Water Grill, a fine dining destination in Pune. As you step into the stylish space, a bar on one side with an attractive display of bottles and an L-shaped restaurant with large glass panels on the other side catch the eye. “The ambience and design have been created to offer the diner an experience rather than as decoration,” says Executive Chef Shailendra Kekade. “Each detail has been thought out to make the guest feel comfortable and special, without feeling overwhelmed.” All the tables are pre-set with white and red wine glasses. The wine menu presents a wide selection of Indian and international wines, some of which are also served by the glass. “We have selected fine wines from across the world and the pricing is affordable. We would like guests who have travelled widely overseas to relate to the

fine dining experience here with our offering of gourmet contemporary style European cuisine and fine wines.” The wine list includes Valpolicella DOC; Châteauneuf du Pape, Côte Du Rhône; Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany; Pommard, Chablis from Puligny Montrachet, Burgundy; Ulrich Langguth Riesling, Moselle; Mateus Rosé, Portugal; and Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin, Reims in Champagne. Water poured from a bottle with a sprig of mint inside gives a hint of the small touches that go into making a great dining experience at Stone Water Grill. Starters are artfully presented in individual spoons or arranged in smart white plates. A light frothy cappuccino of mushrooms with soup or the fresh vegetables in a clear soup make it more appetising. The main course dishes offer a contrast of colour and texture with meat, pasta, vegetables and a flourish of sauce. Exquisitely presented fruit or the sinful Bailey’s Chocolate Torte with the restaurant’s symbol make for a visual treat.

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Dining room of the Stone Water Grill

As you enjoy the courses, each dish – from the Madras curry infused chicken broth to the medium rare Filet Mignon with wasabi sauce and gari mash, and the lamb paté cooked like an Indian style shammi kebab yet served cold like a paté – highlights a special ingredient or style of cooking or presentation. “Our aim is to use the techniques of European cuisine with a special ingredient to enhance the flavours of the dish without overpowering the meat or vegetables. As we have access to such good local produce in India, almost throughout the year, we believe in sourcing ingredients locally and creating subtle nuances in the food.” While Chef Kekade believes wine certainly enhances the dining experience, he feels all those rules of white wine with light meats, and red wine with red meats or heavier preparations are really not applicable anymore. “Enjoying a wine with your meal is all about what appeals to you. It is best to select a wine of your choice for the meal or ask the staff to recommend one that will pair well with your food.” Chef Kekade ensures each course is perfect. “Each course is equally important and has its rightful place. The soups and starters are meant to stir your appetite, salads bring in the healthy ingredients, the main course provides the proteins without being too heavy, and the dessert wraps up the meal,” he explains. Without compromising on the preparation of dishes, every effort is made to minimize the use of fats so you feel pleasantly satiated at the end of the meal. “Our whole effort is to offer a special and relaxed dining experience.” And as all the elements meet and blend, they make Stone Water Grill a truly gourmet destination.• – Brinda Gill Getting There Stone Water Grill

Pyramid Complex 81/82 North Main Road Koregaon Park Pune- 411036 Ph: 9764147877 / 9922084999 / 41030333. http://www.stonewatergrill.in/

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RESTAURANTS that love wine

Prego at Taj Coromandel, Chennai

In the mood for Italian food and wine? Prego is the way to go ficionados go so far as to say it’s one of the few places in the subcontinent where you can get the real deal in Italian. Pair that with an impressive wine list whose intention is to stock 350 world class vintages – including at least 75 Italian labels – and you have a fine dining experience worth raising a glass to. This would be at Prego, the Taj Coromandel’s elegantly appointed Italian restaurant featuring a fine dining menu designed by its very own Italian chef de cuisine, Giovanna Marson, who hails from the Milano region. The best Italian food is more about the best quality ingredients, used fresh, and less about a cunningly contrived sauce. Over the pleasurable rustle of linen and the discreet clink of cutlery, Taj Coromandel’s executive chef Nabhojit Ghosh affirms there is no compromising on the tastes and textures so crucial for the enjoyment of Italian food. Many of the ingredients used in the preparations at Prego – including the succulent Sicilian limes – are sourced from abroad. Our meal opened with a trio of appetisers that included a delightfully fresh L’insalata mista con le verdure (Rs 300) – a lightly dressed garden salad with thin strips of zucchini, a hint of watercress and crunchy, mixed lettuce leaves. We also had some prawns and avocado, and a cleverly assembled mille-feuille of Proscuitto and melon (Rs 700), where tiny shavings of cheese tucked into the layers offered a surprising tanginess as you bit in. Accompanying this opening salvo of tastes was a crisp 2007 Pinot Grigio Danzante that worked well to open up the palate, and held its own against the varied range of flavours. Next was a little cappuccino cup of tomato soup (Rs 300), rich in both taste and consistency with a light drizzle of chilli-flavoured oil to give it extra oomph. It

also presented a good moment in the meal to return to the crusty offerings of the breadbasket for fresh pickings. The 2005 Tasca d’Almerita Chardonnay that was poured alongside this course was a revelation. A nicely complex creation, this was a well-structured vintage that didn’t shy away from strongly presenting the characteristic buttery, honey textures of this wine style. The smooth-as-silk 2001 Corvina Veronese Allegrini La Poja that accompanied the main courses – which included succulent sea bass rolls (Rs 1,600) as well as tenderloin of lamb with balsamic grilled zucchini (Rs 1,500) – proved to be a smart choice. Full-bodied, fruity and elegantly balanced, it was a clear winner as a pairing for the meat but did not fare too badly with the seafood either. We got what we fondly believed were our just desserts, when the chilled bitter chocolate mousse with ginger and chilli (Rs 400), and a Sicilian style cannoli (Rs 400) were served along with a 2002 Semillon Baron Philippe de Rothschild Sauternes. On the palate the wine felt lighter than some other botrytis vintages we have tasted, yet had just the right sweetness so as not to be overpowered by the strong tastes of ginger and chocolate. Sweet endings, indeed, to the Prego fine dining experience.• – Parvathi Nayar Getting There Prego

Taj Coromandel 37 Mahatma Gandhi Road Chennai 600034. A la carte for lunch and dinner (Business Lunch offer with a glass of wine: Monday to Saturday, Rs 950)

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58 Sommelier INDIA

BUYING wine

Partners in wine Lamb Shank Osso Bucco with Pumpkin Risotto and Bok Choy A delicious lamb recipe from Chef Christopher Stephens at the Leela Kempinski, Mumbai

Ingredients Allow 1 large Lamb Shank per person Olive oil White flour Tomato paste Fresh thyme Water or chicken stock Salt and pepper Bayleaf Rough-cut onions, carrots, celery

100 ml 50 gms 50 gms 2 sprigs 500 ml

100 gms

For the Risotto Arborio or good Italian risotto rice Minced onion Chicken stock Small pumpkin, boiled and diced Saffron Butter Fresh sliced Parmesan cheese Fresh bok choy

50 gms 200 ml 100 gms 1 pinch 50 gms 30 gms 100 gms

Method Heat the oil in a large deep pot. Dust the lamb shank with flour, salt and pepper. Brown in the olive oil till golden colour and remove. In the same pot sweat rough-cut vegetables and the tomato paste until transparent. Return the lamb shank to the pot and add the water, fresh thyme and bay leaf. Place in the oven and braise slowly until tender. For the risotto Heat the butter in a deep pot, add minced onion and cook until transparent. Add the rice, stir for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and cook until the desired consistency with the saffron. Before finishing, fold in the cooked diced pumpkin, the butter and Parmesan cheese. Season to taste. Quickly cook the bok choy in a wok or in a saucepan with a little butter and stock. To assemble, remove the cooked lamb shank. Reduce the braising liquid a little more with a drop of red wine to form the sauce. Place the risotto in a deep plate, the lamb shank on top. Arrange the bok choy neatly and serve.

Suggested wine:

Craggy Range Pinot Noir 2006, New Zealand

inot Noir, the ‘noble’ red grape of Burgundy, is unpredictable and difficult to grow and to vinify, but results in some of the finest reds in the world. Chef Christopher Stephen’s choice to pair with his Lamb Shank, the Craggy Range Pinot Noir 2006 is nicely dry, with soft silky tannins, a medium cut of acidity, medium weight body and an even, persistent palate. Produced in Martinborough, New Zealand, Craggy Range wines are all bottled as single estate, single vineyard wines which is what makes Craggy Range so unique. They are the best possible product of their terroir, the winemaker and the particular weather conditions of every vintage.

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SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS

WINE IMPORTERS & DISTRIBUTORS Ace Beveragez Pvt. Ltd S-23, Okhla Industrial Area Phase-2, Delhi-110 020 Tel:+ (91-11) 4050 3560, 98111 70188 Agnetta International M-393, Guru Markishan Nagar (Ground flr), New Delhi-110 087 Tel:+ (91-11) 9999400135 Alpex Luxury Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd B-79, Shivalik Enclave, New Delhi- 110017 Tel: +91-11-2669 2132/35 www.alpexwines.com Amfora Wine & Foods Pvt Ltd A-249 Defence Colony, New Delhi-110 024 Tel: +(91-11) 6455 5298, 4155 0231 www.amforawine.com Ark Spirits India Pvt Ltd # 6-3-596/8 Venkata Ramana Colony Khairatabad Hyderabad 500004 Tel: 040-23300980/ 09705908008 E: rrrark@yahoo.co.in, marketing_ark@yahoo.co.in Aspri Wine Division 301, Lavlesh Court, Pandit Varde Road, Bandra West, Mumbai 400050 Tel: +91 22 2640 1995 www.aspri.org Berkmann Wine Cellars India Pvt Ltd Col Dongri CHS Bldg No 1 A wing 103/104, Parsiwada Sahar Road Andheri (east), Mumbai 400099 Tel: + (91-22) 28260376 www.berkmann.co.uk Brindco Limited S-53, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase II, New Delhi-110 020 Tel: +(91-11) 2638 3261,2638 9351 www.brindco.com Castello Farm Products P Ltd 257 Hosur Road, Wilson Gardens, Bangalore- 560027 Tel:+(91-80) 56690251 Connoisseur Imports 53 New Balaji Colony, Tirupati-517502 Andhra Pradesh Tel: 09346233868 www.connoisseurimports.com 60 Sommelier INDIA

Dawine Liquors 44 & 71 Oshiwara Ind Center, Opp Goregaon Bus Depot, Goregaon(W), Mumbai-400 014 Tel: +(91-22) 2878 3169 Dhall Foods & Beverages Pvt Ltd F-90/32, Okhla Indl Area Phase-1 New Delhi - 110 020 Tel:+(91-22) 26464254 Diageo India Pvt Ltd A-2/89, First floor, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi-110 029 Tel: +(91-11) 2618 2171/72 www.diageo.com Diplomat Impex Pvt Ltd C-1 Shopping Centre Complex Vasant Vihar, New Delhi- 110 057 Tel: +(91-11 )69413922, 2614 6638 diplomatimpex@gmail.com Divino Fine Wine & Spirits Pvt Ltd F-57 Okhla Industrial Area, Phase- I New Delhi 110 020 Tel: +91-11-30887020 Dream Merchants Impex Pvt Ltd N-17 Sainik Farms, Lane W 17, G New Delhi - 110 062, Tel: +91 9871683899 www.dream-merchants.in Embassy International T-6, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-2 New Delhi-110 020 Tel: +(91-11) 4161 6111 www.embassyinter.com Fairmacs Shipstores Pvt Ltd 14 Moore Street, Chennai- 600001 Tel: +(91-44) 25231383 /84/85 FineWines & More 406, Raheja Plaza, 4th Floor, Off New Link Road, Next to Afcons, Andheri (West), Mumbai - 400 053 India Tel - +(91-22) 4033 0000 www.finewinesnmore.com Future Wine & Spirit Brand Pvt Ltd. Patel Engg. Co. Building Patel Estate, Jogeshwari (West) Mumbai - 400 102 Tel: +(91-22) 2678 1584, 2678 1578 Global Tax Free Traders 87-Sainik Farms, Central Avenue Khanpur, New Delhi-110062 Tel: +(91-11) 29551039, 6567 9333 Goldstar Impex P Ltd D- 180, 1st Floor Darya Ganj New Delhi-110 002 Tel: (91-11) 4354 0997, 2327 0144 www.goldstarwines.net

Gold Star & Co 12/B Krishnapuri Soc, Near Jain Temple, Manjalpur, Baroda 390011 Tel: 09979147742 Hema Connoisseur Collections D- 180, 1st Floor Savitri Nagar, Near Malviya Nagar New Delhi-110 017 Tel: (91-11) 3200 2500, 2601 2502 www.hema.in High Spirits 187D, Pocket C, Sidhartha Extension, New Delhi-110 014 Tel: +(91-11) 2634 7000 www.highspirits.in India Food Co. Pvt Ltd V & V Brand of Wines 18 Vikas Center, S V Road Santacruz ( West ), Mumbai- 400054 Tel: +(91-22) 66780131/ 133 Indospirit Distribution Pvt Ltd B-230, Okhla Industrial Area Phase - I New Delhi 110020 Tel: +(91-11) 42570000, 26810000 E:info@indospirit.com www.indospirit.com Jorini Hospitality Pvt Ltd 6,Hyfa Building, Safed Pool Andheri kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri(E), Mumbai-400072 Tel: +(91-22) 28593367/28510407 krina@jorini.in www.jorini.in Kiara Wines Kirti Building, Ground Floor Dr. V.B Gandhi Marg, Fort Mumbai-400 023 Tel: +(91-22) 40502405/01 www.kiarawines.com Kyndal India Pvt Ltd 218, 218 A Enkay Towers Udyog Vihar Phase-V, Gurgaon - 1 22016, Tel: +(91-0124) 4014880 www.kyndaline.net M & C Marketing 15/8, Primrose Road, Bangalore - 560 025 Tel: +(91-80) 4112 4112 Mohan Brothers B- 81 Okhla Industrial Pvt Ltd Phase- 1 New Delhi 110 020 Tel: +(91-11) 43743434 E: suhail@mbpl.net

SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS Munjral Brothers (Distribution) N-001,Tex Centre, Narain Plaza, Chandivilli Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai-400 072 Tel: +(91-22) 2857 9656/57/58 www.munjral.com Natures Bounty Wines & Allied Products Pvt. Ltd. F – 85, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase – 1, New Delhi – 110020. Tel: +(91-11) 32480119, 32435767/ 68 www.naturesbounty.co.in WINES TO BUY Casuarina Creek Traminer NSW, Australia Grapes: Traminer Year: 2006 Price: Delhi Rs 950, Mumbai Rs 1105, Chandigarh Rs 775 Food Pairing: White wines work best with light food Retail Outlets: DSIDC, DTTDC, DCCWS, DSCSC, Greater Kailash-II, Dwarka, Janakpuri, BC Palace, Punjabi Bagh Casuarina Creek Shiraz, NSW, Australia Grapes: Shiraz Year: 2006 Price: Delhi Rs 950, Mumbai Rs 1105, Chandigarh Rs 775 Food Pairing: Meat stew, BBQ & spicy Indian vegetarian dishes. Retail Outlets: DSIDC, DTTDC, DCCWS, DSCSC, Greater Kailash-II, Dwarka, Janakpuri, BC Palace, Punjabi Bagh Casuarina Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, NSW, Australia Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon Year: 2006 Price: Delhi Rs 950, Mumbai Rs 1105, Chandigarh Rs 775 Food Pairing: Lamb,beef & spicy Indian vegetarian dishes. Retail Outlets: DSIDC, DTTDC, DCCWS, DSCSC, Greater Kailash-II, Dwarka, Janakpuri, BC Palace, Punjabi Bagh Casuarina Creek Unwooded Chardonnay, NSW, Australia Grapes: Unwooded Chardonnay Year: 2006 Price: Delhi Rs 950, Mumbai Rs 1105, Chandigarh Rs 775 Food Pairing: Roast chicken, grilled fish Retail Outlets: DSIDC, DTTDC, DCCWS, DSCSC, Greater Kailash-II, Dwarka, Janakpuri, BC Palace, Punjabi Bagh

Pick of the Bunch Wines Pvt Ltd Haripreet Bldg, Tagore Road Santa Cruz West, Mumbai 400054 Tel: +(91-22) 26494114 , 9820221755 www.pickofthebunchwines.com

Radico Khaitan Ltd Plot No J-1, Block B-1, Mohan Co-op. Indl. Area, Mathura Road, New Delhi-110 044 Tel: +(91-11) 2697 5405/406/408

Sovereign Impex C-72, First Floor, Shivalik New Delhi-110 017 Tel: +(91-11) 4165 7017,4165 7018 E:naresh@sovereignindia.com www.sovereignwines.com

Riona Wines Pvt Ltd F-1 Mukund Apartment Nr Ganesh Mandir Shanivar Peth Miraj 416410 Maharashtra Tel:0233-2226291/ 09423689421 E:info@rionawines.com

Starex-Import Export (India) Pvt Ltd A-13-1 Vasant Vihar, New Delhi-110 057 Tel: +(91-11) 2614 4465, 2615 6173 www.starexwines.com

Sanadhanaa Trade Services Pvt Ltd 2/218, 2nd Street, Karpagambal Nagar, Kottivakkam, East Coast Road, Chennai-600041 Tel: +(91-44) 32428726/32551742 E: capt.hariharan@santrade.net www.santrade.net Shivoys International 244, Civil Lines, Kishore Bazar Bareilly -243001, Uttar Pradesh Tel: +(91-581) 3299219 www.shivoysinternational.com S K Beverages Pvt. Ltd. 14, DDA Shopping Complex Niti Bagh, New Delhi - 110049 Tel: +(91-11) 41648144 www.skbeverages.com S.V Distributors Pvt Ltd 228, Keytuo Industrial Estate, J.B Nagar, Kondivita Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai-400 059 Tel: +(91-22) 4221 8888 www.svdpl.co.in Sula Vineyards Nashik Vintners Pvt. Ltd. 1, Matulya Centre C, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400 013 Tel: +(91-22) 6660 6685 / 86 www.sulawines.com

Sultania Trade Pvt Ltd Plot No A-2 Tahira Industrial Compound Premsons Industrial Estate Caves Road Jogeshwari East, Mumbai-400 060 Tel: +(91-22) 2820 2505/06 www.sultaniatrade com Ten & Co V-31/2 DLF - III Gurgaon - 122002 Tel : +91 124 2564608/09 Fax : +91 124 2564602 Email : Hemant@tenandco.net Wine Legend India (P) Ltd AH- 105, Shanthi Colony, Anna Nagar, Chennai 600040 Tel: +91(044) 42611244/ 42611255, 09444624163 www.winelegend.com The Wine Rack A Division of Urdit Exports 115 Adhyaru Industrial Estate Sunmill Compound, Lower Parel Mumbai 400013 Tel: +(91-22) 24982830 TT&G Trading (P) Ltd Thapar House 124 Janpath, New Delhi 110 001 Tel: +(91-11) 2334 9030 www.torres.es & www.glenfarclas.co.uk Wine Park 47A, Nandjyot Industrial Estate Andheri-Kurla Road, Mumbai-400 072 Tel: +(91-22) 2851 6621-25 www.thewinepark.com

Sundeep Vintners 250-D, Udyog Bhavan Worli, Mumbai 400 030 Tel: +(91-22) 2493 8414

Vinner Enoteca Wines Pvt Ltd 129, Sec-4, IMT-Manesar, Gurgaon - 122050 Tel: +(91-124) 4365444 www.operawines.in

Sonarys Cobrands Pvt.Ltd. G-12, Creative Ind. Estate, NM Joshi Marg, Lower Parel East, Mumbai Tel: +(91-22) 666 9111

Vin-Vin Enterprises Pvt Ltd Gala No. 4 & 5, Building 1, Shivkrupa Commercial Complex village-Kon, Taluka-Bhiwandi, District-Thane. Tel: 952522-280759

Sommelier INDIA 61

SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS United Spirits Limited 51, Richmond Road, Bangalore-560 025 Tel: +(91-80) 305 10600, 2227 2442 www.unitedspirits.in World Wines & Spirits 65-A, Himgiri Apartments, Pocket A-14 Kalkaji Extension New Delhi 110 019 Tel: +91.11.26093272, 41861365 E: bkpardal@hotmail.com www.worldwinesandspirits.net

WINE RETAILERS BANGALORE Classic Wine Mall Prestige Forum, Hosur Road Koramangala, Bangalore Foodworld Supermarkets Limited No. 740 Eswari Industrial Estate Gate No. 2, Hulimavu, Bannerghatta Road, Bangalore-560 001 Foodworld – Banashankari No. 1 & 12 80 Ft. Road, 3rd Phase 6th Block, Banashankari III Stage, Bangalore-560 085 Foodworld – Bangalore Club No. 10 Residency Road, Bangalore-560 085 Foodworld – Basavangudi No. 9 Gandhi Bazar, Basavangudi, Bangalore-560 004 Foodworld – BTM Layout No. 9 100 Ft. Ring Road, BTM Layout Bangalore-560 076 Foodworld – Cox Town New No. 93 Wheeler Road Cox Town, Bangalore-560 005 Foodworld – Cunningham Rd No. 30/1, Leeman’s Complex Cunningham Road, Bangalore-560 052 Not Just Wine & Cheese The Pavilion Mall Church Street, Bangalore-560 076 CHANDIGARH Spirit – The Liquor Store S.C F.22, Sector 9-D, Chandigarh Tel: 0172-500 3002 World of Whiskies T. L. Verma & Co (P) Ltd, L-2, S. C. O2A, Sector 7C, Madhya Marg, Chandigarh DELHI DTDC Wine Shop C-5 Vasant Vihar, New Delhi Tel: +(91-11) 2614 2481 62 Sommelier INDIA

DSCSC L. N. Bhavan 10, Lok Nayak Bhawan, Khan Market, New Delhi Tel: +98100 44414 DSCSC Saket J-16, LSC Mkt. Shopping Centre Saket, New Delhi DSIDC 7 Block E, Masjid Moth, Shopping Centre, Masjid Moth, New Delhi DSIDC N-36, Bombay Life Building Opp.Competent Motors Connaught Place, New Delhi, Tel: +98185 39899 DSIDC 2, East of Kailash, DDA Shopping Centre, New Delhi DTTDC Yusuf Sarai 48/3, Mool Raj Building, Yusuf Sarai, New Delhi Tel: +(91-11) 2696 8795 Wine & Beer Shop M- 35 G.K.- II Market, New Delhi-110 048 Tel: +(91-11) 2921 7233, 99113 05170 Wine Cellar 11-12, DLF, Near Savitri Cinema Greater Kailash-II, New Delhi-110 048 Tel: +(91-11) 2921 5365 Wine & Beer Shop 10, DLF Centre, Greater Kailash-II New Delhi-110 048 Tel: +(91-11) 2921 2258, 98103 31058 GURGAON Global Wines and SpiritsHelpline No: 9711300000 Available at: Reliance Mega Mall DLF Phase 1, Gurgaon SRS Value Bazaar Supermart Phase-IV,Gurgaon SRS Value Bazaar Sector 56,Bestech Mall,Gurgaon SRS Value Bazaar,Omaxe Plaza Sohna Road, Gurgaon SRS Mall Sector 15, Faridabad NEEDS Supermarket Opp Oaktree Restaurant DLF Phase IV, Gurgaon MUMBAI Blue Star Shop # 5 Juhu Road (Sujata) Santa Cruz West, Mumbai 400054 Tel: +(91-22) 2661 9999

Castle Wines FL-II/154, Shop No 6, Nanji Roaji Bldg., A.D Marf,Sewri, Mumbai 400 015 Tel: + (91-22) 24154351 Century Wines J. Dadaji Marg (Gustad Mansion) Grant Road, Mumbai 400 007 Tel: +(91-22) 23516504, 23534014 Globus Wines Boutique Infiniti Mall, 2nd Floor, Andheri, Mumbai Tel: +(91-22) 2876 5810 Also at: Oberoi Mall, Ground Floor Goregaon East Tel: +(91-22) 2876 5810 Inside Haiko Supermarket, Powai Tel: +(91-22) 2876 5810 Thakur Shopping Mall, Dahisar Tel: +(91-22) 2876 5810 Gold Coin Shop # 6, Juhu Tara Road (Sea Palace Premises) Juhu, Mumbai 400049 Tel: +(91-22) 26603851, 2660 5431 Haiko Supermarket

Central Avenue Hiranandani Gardens-Powai Mumbai-400 076 Tel: (91-22) 2579 7888 India Wine Mart FL-II/405, Shop No 5, Olive Apartment Devaki Nagar Eksar Road, New Link Road, Borivali-West, Mumbai 400 102 Tel: + (91-22) 2894 4694 Juben Wines Juhu Tara Road, (Shernaz Navbahar) Shop No. 1, Juhu, Mumbai-400049 Tel: +(91-22) 2615 2222 Living Liquidz India Pvt Ltd Sani Armaa, Raut Lane, Opposite Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple, Juhu, Vile Parle West, Mumbai 400056 Tel: +919920923370 www.livingliquidzlive.com Millenium Wines FL-II/278 Plot No 9, Green Villa Apartment Lokhandwala, Andheri West Mumbai 400 053 Tel : + (91-22) 6677 8645 /2634 9807

SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS Modern Wines 1/377 Veer Savarkar Marg Shivaji Park,(Amar Kunj) Bhavani Shankar Road Dadar, Mumbai-400 028 Tel: +(91-22) 2446 8581, 2446 8582 New Millenium Wines FL-II/109 Shop No.3, Sai Prasad Complex, 1st Road Khar West, Mumbai 400 052 Tel: +(91-22) 2600 1268 / 2605 3438 Nita Wines Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate (Industrial Assurance Building) Shop No. 1927, Marine Lines Mumbai-400 020 Tel: +(91-22) 2282 1270, 2282 5326

WINE PRODUCERS Blue Star Agro Winery (India) Pvt. Ltd. 50/2 Birdawadi, Ambethan Road Opp Chakan telephone Exchange Chakan, Pune- 410 501, Maharashtra Tel: +(91-020) 271 26089, 98672 68890 www.bluestarwinery.com Bosca Wine Baramati Grape Industries, P.O. Pimpali, tal. Baramati District Pune-413 102 Maharashtra Chateau Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ori Aftek House, 265, Veer Savarkar Marg, Mumbai -400028 Tel: +(91-22) 24454016/17/18 www.chateaudori.com

Parry Wines 6 Krishnachandra Marg (Homelands) Shop # 55, Bandra West, Mumbai 400050 Tel: +(91-22) 5602 6013, 2651 1526

Dajeebah 271, Samrajya, Sangliwadi Sangli-416 416, Maharashtra Tel:+(91)(233)253 5197 www.dajeebavines.com

Peekay Wines Sitaram Building, Crawford Market Mumbai-400 051

Deccan Winery Pvt Ltd Ashoka Lakeview Apartments Flat No 302 A Kundanbagh, Hyderabad 500016 Tel: 09949001177 E:vijay@deccanwinery.com

Romeo Wines FL-II/278 Shop No.1, New Link Road Corner Opp. Prastisha Nagar, Jogeshwari West Mumbai 400 102 Tel: +(91-22) 2679 1119 / 2677 4143 Shah & Co. Sitaram Building Crawford Market, Mumbai-400 051 Tel: +(91-22) 2342 7996/7 Sovereign Wines S-10/A, Sukh Sagar, N.S.Patkar Road Mumbai-400 007 Uma Wines FL- II/244, Shop No 2B/4, Bombay Talkies Compound Harun Khan Road, Malad(W) Mumbai- 400 064 Tel: +(91-22) 2881 0806/ 3217 3834 Veera Wines Shop No.2, Papul Apartment Veera Desai Road, Andheri West Mumbai 400 053 Tel: +(91-22) 3260 5461 / 2673 6154 Wine Nook Dealers Pvt Ltd FL-II/6Shop No.2, Neelam C.H.S., Plot No.242, Sec No.5 Charkop Kandivali West, Mumbai 400 067 Tel: +(91-22) 2869 4555 / 2869 4999 Wine Port FL-II/95, Shop No 7, Silva Croft 25-A I.C Colony, Borivali (W) Mumbai- 4000 010 Tel: +(91-22) 2895 4360

Elite Vintage Winery India Pvt Ltd Venkatesh Nilay Opp - KHB colony, Matoor Road Mudhol, Dist Bagalakot 587313 Karnataka Tel:08350-202244/ 9900698512 E:elitewinery@gmail.com Flamingo Wines A/3, Unity Park, College Road Nashik- 422002 Tel:+(91) (0253) 2574667, 09850983035 www.flamingowines.com Globus Wines B/35 Oshiwara Industrial Centre Goregaon West, Mumbai - 400 104 Tel: +(91-22) 2876 5810 www.globuswines.co.in Greno Vineyards (Greengold Wine) Gat 659, Post Bedag, Tal-Miraj District, Sangli - 416 410, Maharashtra Grover Vineyards 63 Ragunathpura, Devanahalli Road, Doddaballapur Taluk, Bangalore, Karnataka Tel:+ (91-080) 762 2123, 762 2826 www.groverwines.com Good Earth Winery Pvt Ltd C1, ground floor, Chaitraban Residency, Aundh, Pune 411 007 Tel: +91-9011261234 E:info@goodearthwinery.com www.goodearthwinery.com

Indage Vintners Ltd. Indage House, 82 Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli Mumbai - 400 018, Maharashtra Tel :+(91-022) 6654 7933 www.indagegroup.com Indra Vineyards (P) Ltd Plot No 861, Srisai Nilayam Vasanth Nagar Colony, Kukapally Hyderabad 500072 Tel: +(91-040) 23051777 Mandala Valley Vineyard 2984, 2nd floor, 12th Main, Indiranagar, Bangalore - 560 008 Tel: + (91-080)4115 2544 Mercury Winery Pvt Ltd S- Pimple Mumbai- Agra Road Ozar (MIG) Nashik 422 206 sales@mercurywinery.net www.mercurywinery.net Mojaveh Beverages Pvt Ltd L-19/5 , DLF Phase -2, Gurgaon -122 002, Tel:+ (91-0124) 401 1089 Monarcha Wines Pvt Ltd Plot No A 46,Additional Grape Krishana Wine Park, MIDC, Sandgewadi Tal Palus Dist.Sangli 416310 Maharashtra Tel: 02322-235270 E:monarchawine@gmail.com Nandi Valley Winery Pvt. Ltd. 3rd Floor, #41,Nandidurga Road, Benson Town Post Jaymahal Extn. Bangalore - 560046 Tel : +(91-080) 23535581/82 E: asma@nandivalleywinery.com www.nandivalleywinery.com Nashik Valley Wines Pvt Ltd House No - 4283 Sukenker Lane, Panchavati Nasik 422003 Maharashtra Tel:09850893199 E:indigram_vintage@yahoo.com N.C. Fine Wines Ap/p.Nerlie,tal.Kadegaon District Sangli, Maharashtra N.D. Wines Pimpalgaon,Wani Road At PO. Khedgaon, Tal. Dindori, District, Nashik-422205, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-2557) 235 202/235 203 www.ndwines.com

Sommelier INDIA 63

SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS SI LISTINGS Pause Wines and Ideas Pvt Ltd 101-103, 1st floor, New Look Apt MMGS Road, opp Wadala Udyog Bhavan Dadar east Mumbai 400 014 Tel: +(91-22)4028 9999 E:corporate@pausewines.com www.pausewinesandideas.com Pernod Ricard India Pvt Ltd (Formerly Seagram India (P) Tower A, 5th Floor, Global Business Park Mehrauli -Gurgaon Road Gurgaon - 122 002 Haryana Tel: +(91-0124) 235 8001-08 WINES TO BUY Nine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, India Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon Price: Delhi Rs 500, Mumbai Rs 458, Bangalore Rs 465 Retail Outlets: Delhi- all major DSIDC, DTTDC, East of Kailash, Masjid Moth, Vasant Vihar. Mumbai- Hypercity, Inorbit, Foodland. Bangalore- Fab Mall, Food World, Wine & Cheese Nine Hills Shiraz 2007, India Price: Delhi Rs 500, Mumbai Rs 458, Bangalore Rs 465 Retail Outlets: Delhi- all major DSIDC,DTTDC, East of Kailash, Masjid Moth, Vasant Vihar. Mumbai- Hypercity, Inorbit, Foodland. Bangalore- Fab Mall, Food World, Wine & Cheese Nine Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2007, India Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc Price: Delhi Rs 500, Mumbai Rs 458, Bangalore Rs 465 Retail Outlets: Delhi- all major DSIDC,DTTDC, East of Kailash, Masjid Moth, Vasant Vihar. Mumbai- Hypercity, Inorbit, Foodland. Bangalore- Fab Mall, Food World, Wine & Cheese Chenin Blanc 2007, India Grapes: Chenin Blanc Price: Delhi Rs 480, Mumbai Rs 409, Bangalore Rs 415 Retail Outlets: Delhi- all major DSIDC, DTTDC, East of Kailash, Masjid Moth, Vasant Vihar. MumbaiHypercity, Inorbit, Foodland. Bangalore- Fab Mall, Food World, Wine & Cheese

Prathamesh Wines Pimpladar, Tal.Satana, District Nashik, Maharashtra Tel: (91-2555) 22 4560 Pyramid Wines MIDC Area, Plot No. E-200 Baramati District, Pune. Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-211)224 4064 www.yellowstonewines.com Qrisnani Yards Pvt Ltd 6/3 Versova View Four Bungalow, Andheri(west) Mumbai 400 058 Tel: +(91-22) 26371 635 E: info@qrisnaniyards.com www.qrisnaniyards.com 64 Sommelier INDIA

Rajdheer Wines Bhilwad, Post. Kapsi, Tal. Deola, District Nashik-423120, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-2592) 23 6433/ 23 6344 www.rajdheerwines.com Redwing Wines Pvt Ltd GAT No.33, Akrale Phata AT.Post-Talegaon(Dindori) Tal-Dindori, Dist-Nashik, Maharashtra Tel: +91 9923001213, 9823168563 E: mail@redwingwines.com, sales@ redwingwines.com www. redwingwines.com Renaissance Winery Pvt Ltd Gat No.2317, Mumbai-Agra Road, Ozar(MIG), Nasik-422 206, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-22) 3951 9184 www.renaissancewinery.co.in Reveilo Wines Gat No.71, Gitakunj(Kundewadi) Taluka Niphad, District Nashik- 422303, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-2550) 24 0439, 24 0440 www.reveilo.com Saikripa Winery A-68, Additional MIDC, Palus, Tal. Palus, District Sangli-416 310, Maharashtra Sailo Wines, V.M Agrosoft, A/p. Pimpalgaon Baswant, Tal. Niphad, District Nashik-422 209, Maharashtra

Vallonne Vineyards C/14/108,MIG Colony, Kalanagar Bandra East, Mumbai 400051 Tel: +(91-022) 26590927, 09867388389 www.vallonnevineyards.com Vaishali Wineries Pvt Ltd. #38/18,2nd floor, East Patel Nagar, New Delhi - 110 008 Tel:+(91-11) 4509 3403 www.vaishaliwineries.com Vinbros & Company 23 Romain rolland Street, Pondicherry Tel: +(91-413) 233 7714/233 9645 www.vinbros.com Vinicola Coasta & Company, 248 Borda Margao-403 602 Goa Tel: +(91-832) 273 5294, 273 5751 www.costavin.com York Winery Pvt Ltd Winery & Tasting Room Gat No 15/2, Gangavarhe Village Gangapur-Savargaon Road, Nasik 422222 Tel: 09657728070/ 0253-2230700 E:ravig@yorkwinery.com www.yorkwinery.com

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Sankalp Winery(Vinsura Wines) CU 31, Vinchur Wine Park, MIDC Vinchur Tal.Niphad Dist District Nashik, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-2550) 261 751, 329 321 www.vinsura.com Sigma Wineries Pvt Ltd Plot No. B-11/12, STICE, Sinnar District Nashik-422 112, Maharashtra Tel:+ (91-02551) 240 072, 240 472 www.sigmawines.com Sula Vineyards Nashik Vintners Pvt. Ltd., Gat 36/2, Govardhan, Gangapur - Savargaon Road Nashik - 422 222, Maharashtra Tel: +(91 2350) 2233 11663/1720 www.sulawines.com

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Vallee de Vin Pvt Ltd 146 Atlanta,Nariman Point Mumbai 400 021 Tel: +(91-22)22836468 E:info@vdvmail.com www.vallee-de-vin.com

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