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Contents February-March 2011 ON THE GRAPEVINE
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4-17 NEWS, NOTES AND VIEWS
34 DONNAFUGATA STEPS UP TO THE TABLE
Bangalore booming; Wintage for investing in wine; introducing Margaret River; Marimar Torres in Mumbai; Steven Spurrier on wine and food pairing; newcomers in the Languedoc; Glaetzer and Heartland wines now in India
Donnafugata wines are among the pioneers of a new wave of Sicilian table wines. Rosemary George, MW, describes the wonderful diversity of Sicily that the wines represent
COLUMNS
18 TWIN PEAK VINTAGES Jancis Robinson discusses the factors that can affect the reputation of a vintage and influence its price
20 SUSTENANCE PLUS JOB SATISFACTION Raghu Bahadur sets himself up with an alternative holiday occupation
22 A TASTE OF THE BEST WINES IN INDIA Steven Spurrier on his favourite picks from the Sommelier India and Wine Society of India Gala Wine Tasting in November 2010 Cover image: Courtesy The Oberoi New Delhi
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25 COOKING GOOSE THE CHINESE WAY Ch’ng Poh Tiong on goose and two great Chinese cuisines that approach the fowl rather differently
FEATURES
28 HERE COME THE BORDEAUX AMAZONS Five Women. Five vineyards. And a common passion for wine. The Bordeaux Amazons are making their own mark in France’s iconic Bordeaux region, discovers Ruma Singh
38 CRACROFT CHASE PHOTO FEATURE A year in the life of Cracroft Chase Vineyard. By Wilma Laryn
70 VERSATILE VODKA Brinda Gill samples some of the wild and whacky vodka infusions created by Shailendra Kekade, executive chef of Stone Water Grill and Le Kebabiere in Pune
SPECIAL SECTION: RESTAURANTS
45 TOP 20 IN 2010
From local fare to international cuisine, Sommelier India Wine Magazine lists its favourite restaurants for wine lovers
49 BYO WINE DEBUTS IN LONDON Carol Wright meets the founders of an online BYO wine club which is fuelling a growing trend
52 DO RESTAURANTS IN FRANCE SERVE GOOD WINE? If you thought all restaurants in France were wine friendly, you are in for a surprise, writes David Cobbold
46 59 RESTAURANTS THAT LOVE WINE Annies Wine Bar, New Zealand; La Terrazza, Pune, Wine on the Beach and Magical Monsoon, Delhi
64 A WINE LIST FOR ALL SEASONS Reva K Singh talks shop with the Director of Beverages, Jean, Marc A Vettesi, at Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai
66 WINE SERVICE AND HANDLING Lindsay Groves offers step by step, practical advice on the proper procedure for serving wine
REGULARS/DEPARTMENTS
68 WINE CLINIC
With our wine expert, Dr Ariff Jamal
69 CHEF’S TABLE In the first of a new series, Ritu Dalmia whets our appetite with a versatile dish of noodles that is both easy to cook and appetizing
56 WINE DINNERS AT DANIEL
72 PHOTO FINISH
Wine dinners are a popular way to revitalize restaurants says Marisa D’Vari
Snapshots from Sommelier India’s photo album
Publisher, editor and owner: Reva K Singh. Co-publisher Shiv B Singh. Copy editor: Bunny Suraiya. Executive Assistant: Aienla Ozukum. Creative Director: Peali Dutta Gupta. Design: Shamik Kundu. Layout artist: TMJ. Printed at EIH Ltd. 7, Sham Nath Marg, Delhi - 110054. Sommelier India is a trade bi-monthly privately produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi - 110 024, India. Tel: +91 11 2433 1013. E-mail: info@indianwinemagazine.com. Web: www.sommelierindia.com. For restricted circulation only. The views expressed in this publication are the writers’ own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Subscription price: `1300 for two years and `1500 for three years; international $56 for two years and $82 for three years.
Rack of lamb - Sevilla
Stella - The Leela Kempinski, Mumbai
Topin 20
2010
Anardana Ambi Paneer Masala Klub
From local fare to international cuisine, Sommelier India brings you a list of our favourite restaurants for wine enthusiasts
Travertino Chef Filippo Giunta
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Orient Express Taj Palace, New Delhi
SanQi - Four Seasons Hotel, Mumbai
SI Restaurant Picks
SI TOP 20 RESTAURANTS SI TOP 20 RESTAURANTS
BANGALORE
Tel: 011-26925151, 26927510 Restaurant Style: Contemporary Indian Covers: 40 Timings: 12 noon to 3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:00pm Recommended dish with wine: Silken Tofu Kofta, Chinese Greens Bhaji, Five Spice Squash Curry – Sula Sauvignon Blanc 2007 or Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2009, Chile Pan Fried Australian John Dory, Moily, Fresh Greens Pinenut Poriyal – Green Point Chardonnay 2007, Yarra Valley, Australia
CAPERBERRY 48/1 Ground Floor, The Estate, 121 Dickinson Road, Bangalore 560 042 Tel: 080-2559 4567, 09845177162 Restaurant Style: Modern European Covers: 107 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 3:00pm; dinner 7:30pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Deconstruction of Salad Caprese – Tomato Basil Sorbet, Balsamic Jelly and Liquid Centred Mozzarella Spherification – Bouchard Aîné & Fils,Chablis 2006 Pan seared Roger Langbour Duck Breast and Confit with Pommes Lyonnais and Red Wine Poached Pears – Torres, Sangre De Toro, Garnacha Cariñena, 2006
ORIENT EXPRESS
Caperberry, Bangalore
GRAZE Vivanta by Taj, MG Road, 41/3, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Bangalore 560 001 Tel: 080-6660 4444 Restaurant Style: European fine dining Covers: 80 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Braised Veal Cheek with Creamy Polenta and Gramolata – Col di Sasso Castello Banfi Toscana Homemade Spaghetti with Provençal Masala Klub, Bangalore
Vegetables and Tomato Sauce – Pascal Jolivet Pouilly Fumé
MASALA KLUB Taj West End, Race Course Road, Bangalore 560 001. Tel: 080-66605660 Restaurant Style: Indian Covers: 103 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 2:45pm; dinner 7:30pm to 11:45pm Recommended dish with wine: Chilgoza Falli – Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Anardana Ambi Paneer – Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay 2004
OLIVE BEACH
Duo of Kid Lamb: Olive Beach
16, Wood Street, Ashok Nagar Bangalore 560 025. Tel: 080-4112 8400 Restaurant Style: Mediterranean Covers: 110 Timings: Lunch 12 noon to 3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:00pm Recommended dish with wine: Duo of Kid Lamb with Creamy Smoked Potato Puree, Sautéed Spinach and Vegetables – Regaleali Nero d’Avola IGT 2007 Flourless Chocolate Paté– Valrhona Paté with Passion Fruit Bavaroise encased in a Tuille, Bitter Orange Sabayon – Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
ROYAL AFGHAN ITC Windsor, 25 Golf Course Road, Bangalore. Tel: 080-22269898 Restaurant Style: North West Frontier Covers: 60 Timings: Dinner 7:00pm to 11:45pm on weekdays. Weekends Lunch12 noon to
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3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:45pm Recommended dish with wine: Royal Afghan Tandoori Raan – Gaja Barbaresco or Châteauneuf du Pape Mahi Tandoori – Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
WEST VIEW ITC Royal Gardenia, 1, Residency Road Bangalore 560 001. Tel: 080-2211 9898 Restaurant Style: Continental Grill Covers: 56 Timings: Dinner 7:30pm to 2:30am Recommended dish with wine: Grilled Sand Lobster with Fennel and Citrus Rind hints – Green Point 2006 Chilean Seabass Butter Grilled in Parcels – Errazuriz Chardonnay 2008 Chile Pistachio Crème Brulee – Vidal Ice wine
Taj Palace, Sardar Patel Marg, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi. Tel: 011-2611 0202 Restaurant Style: French Covers: 35 Timings: 6:30pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Camembert Cheese Soufflé with Paprika Sauce – Cakebread Cellars Reserve, Chardonnay, Napa Valley Duo of New Zealand Lamb served with Devilled Sauce and Smooth Baby Eggplant – Chambolle-Musigny Ier cru “Les Charmes” Louis Jadot
SAN GIMIGNANO The Imperial, 1, Janpath, New Delhi 110001. Tel: 011- 41116608 Restaurant Style: Italian Covers: 72 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 2:45pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:45pm Recommended dish with wine: Risotto Ai Frutti Di Mare E Burro All’aceto – Villa Russiz Collio Chardonnay
Prego, Chennai
“Grafin de La Tour” Costoletta d’agnello con lenticchie di Castelluccio – Summus Castello Banfi Montalcino or Pelazzo della Torre Allegrini, Italy, 2004
SEVILLA The Claridges, 12 Aurangzeb Road New Delhi 110 001. Tel: 011- 4133 5096 Restaurant Style: Mediterranean inspirations Covers: 74 Timings: 7:30pm to 12:30pm Recommended dish with wine: New Zealand Lamb Rack – Tagine with Prunes, Almonds and Roasted Vegetables with Steamed Couscous and Semneah – Brolio Chianti Classico Artichoke, Palm Heart and Mushroom Phyllo Wrap served with Asparagus and Spicy Cherry Tomato Compote – Torres Vina Esmeralda
Travertino enoteca, The Oberoi, New Delhi
THE CHINA KITCHEN Hyatt Regency Delhi, Bhikaji Cama Place, Ring Road, New Delhi 110 607. Tel: 0112679 1234 Restaurant Style: Chinese Covers: 180 Timings: Lunch 12 noon to 2:30pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Steamed Spinach, Mustard-Sesame Sauce – Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay 2008 Beggar’s Chicken, Fragrant Spices, Sichuan Mustard Greens, Mushrooms, Chestnuts, Lotus Seeds, Lotus Leaf, baked in clay – Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2007
TRAVERTINO The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg New Delhi 110 003. Tel: 011-2436 3030 Restaurant Style: Classical Italian Covers: 58 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 2:45pm; dinner 7:30pm to 10:45pm Recommended dish with wine: Red Snapper with Tomato and Black Olives with Lemon and Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Bellavista, Franciacorta Pumpkin and Goat Cheese Ravioli with a light butter sauce – Gavi di Gavi, Marchesi di Barolo
CHENNAI
PREGO
Taj Coromandel Hotel, 37 Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam, Chennai 600 034. Tel: 044-6600 2827 Ext: 3190 Restaurant Style: Italian Covers: 56 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 12:00 midnight Recommended dish with wine: Chilli Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce and Basil – Marchesi de Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi Luce IGT 2001 Lamb Osso Bucco with Milanese Risotto – Gaja Barbaresco DOCG 2003
DELHI
INDIAN ACCENT The Manor, 77 Friends Colony (West) New Delhi 110 065.
Royal Afghan, ITC Windsor, Bangalore
Sommelier INDIA 47
SI Restaurant Picks MUMBAI
MEZZO MEZZO JW Marriott Mumbai, P.O.Box 8283 Juhu Tara Road, Mumbai 400 049 Tel: 022-6693 3220 Restaurant Style: Contemporary Northern Italian Covers: 132 Timings: 7:00pm to 12 midnight Recommended dish with wine: Three Ravioli – Flora Springs Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley 2004 Porcini Risotto – Casanova Brunello di Montalcino Sea bass – Meursault , France or Gavi di Gavi, Italy
SANQI Four Seasons Hotel, 114 Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai. Tel: 022-2481 8000 Restaurant Style: Asian Covers: 180 Timings: Lunch 12 noon to 2:45pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:45pm Recommended dish with wine: Grilled Chicken Satay, Hot Basil Chicken, Wok Fried Baby Kailan – Stags’ Leap Merlot 2006 Cantonese Pork Sampler – Patz Hall Chardonnay 2007
STELLA, MUMBAI The Leela Kempinski, Mumbai, Tel: 022-66911234 Restaurant Style: Italian – Fine Dining Covers: 69 Timings: Dinner 7:00pm to 12:30am Recommended dish with wine: Pan Roasted Sea Bass, Eggplant Parmigiana, Carrots Mash and Prosecco White Wine Sauce – Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc Grilled Angus Beef Tenderloin, Truffle
Restaurants and WINE Sauce, Spinach with Pancetta and Black Raisin, Polenta with Taleggio Cheese – Querciabella’s Camartina
Bring-Your-Own Wine debuts in London
TOTE ON THE TURF Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Opposite Gate No. 5 & 6, Keshva Khadye Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai 400 034 Tel: 022-6157 7777 Restaurant Style: Fusion Covers: 120 Timings: Lunch 12:00pm to 3:00pm; dinner 7:00pm to 12:00 midnight Recommended dish with wine: Charcoal Grilled King Prawns with Couscous and Grilled Asparagus – St. Clair Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand Grilled Rack of New Zealand Lamb with White Bean Puree, Onion Marmalade and Cabernet Jus – Kevin Arnold Shiraz, Waterford Estate, South Africa
Vetro enoteca, The Oberoi, Mumbai
TWO ONE TWO BAR & GRILL 12-A, Ground Floor, Hornby Vellard Estate, Lotus Cinema Bldg, Worli Mumbai 400 018. Tel: 022-2490 1994 Restaurant Style: Mediterranean tending towards the Italian Covers: 162 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 2:30pm; dinner 7:30pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Wood Fired Baked Camembert Cheese, Grilled Vegetables, Rocket Leaves – Casa Fontanafredda Pradalupo Roero Arneis DOC Tenderloin Steak Rossini, Pan Seared Foie Gras, Sautéed Spinach, Truffle – Orin Swift Cellars “The Prisoner”, Napa Valley
VETRO The Oberoi, Mumbai, Sir Dorab Tata Road, Nariman Point, Mumbai
Mezzo Mezzo, JW Marriott, Mumbai Tel: 022-6632 6215 Restaurant Style: Contemporary Italian Covers: 56 Timings: Lunch 12:30pm to 2:30pm; dinner 7:00pm to 11:30pm Recommended dish with wine: Spinach Pasta, Assorted Mushrooms –Pomino Bianco, Marchesi de’Frescobaldi, DOC 2008 Braised Veal Shank, Saffron Risotto, Herb Dressing – Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo DOCG, 2005
PUNE
STONE WATER GRILL
Stone Water Grill, Pune
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Pyramid Complex, 81/82 North Main Road, Koregaon Park, Pune 411036 Tel: 09552194400 Restaurant Style: Contemporary European Covers: 86 Timings: 7:00pm to 12 midnight Recommended dish with wine: Slow Braised Rabbit in a Dark Chocolate and Pepper Sauce – Brunello Di Montalcino Whole Wheat and Barley Risotto with Winter Vegetable Shashlik – Mannara Grillo Pinot Grigio
Carol Wright meets the founders of an internet run Bring-Your-Own wine club which is fuelling a growing trend
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