Real Food - Winter 2021 by SOMOSTUDIO - ส้มโอสตูดิโอ

Lunds & Byerlys

JA M

WINTER 2021

COMPLIMENTARY

COMFORT & Time-honored traditions and new favorites for the holiday table

FREE

PL ANT POWER

Classic dishes with a veggie boost

EASY APPS

Small bites for fuss-free entertaining

SWEET CELEBRATION

New cookie recipes to make the season bright

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Olivia Crutchfield ~ daughter & patient

C RU TC H F I E L D DE R M ATOL O GY CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY

C R U T C H Experience F I E Lcounts. D Quality D E Rmatters. M ATOL O GY Recognized by Physicians and Nurses as one of the best Dermatologists in Minnesota for the past twenty years. Experience counts. Quality matters. Dr.Crutchfield personally performs all Botox and medical aesthetic treatments. Recognized by Physicians and Nurses as one of the best Dermatologists in Minnesota for the past twenty years. Dr.Crutchfield personally performs all Botox and medical aesthetic treatments. 1185 Town Centre Drive Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com 1185 Town Centre Drive Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

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contents

real food

winter 2021

Features 20 Comfort and Joy menu that offers a balance of familiar and new, makeA ahead convenience and show-stopping deliciousness B Y MOLLY STEVENS

28 Plant Power

Boost the percentage of veggies for a healthier take on favorite dishes B Y ROBIN ASBELL

38 Easy Apps

Small bites for fuss-free entertaining RECIPES BY K ATHY KORDALIS

46 Sweet Celebration

ake the season bright with new cookie recipes M to add to your repertoire RECIPES BY LIZ FRANKLIN

52 Jamie Oliver

The celeb chef on life’s simple pleasures and the power of food to bring people together BY MARY SUBIALK A

Departments 4 Bites Loaves and Wishes: Delicious shareable loaf cakes RECIPES BY ANNIE RIGG AND MA XINE CLARK

6 Kitchen Skills Dry brining is the cure for moist, evenly cooked turkey BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Seed and Nut Oils: Wonderful additions to the pantry BY LELAH BYRON

18 Healthy Habits Alternative Flours: Versatile powerhouse staples BY SARA HAFFTEN

56 Pairings Italian red wines for the holiday table BY MARY SUBIALK A

INGREDIENTS FOR WHEAT BERRY SALAD WITH HONEY VINAIGRETTE (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 24)

Our Cover

DRY BRINED ROAST TURKEY WITH GIBLET GRAVY PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

real food

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN

COVER SHOT OF JAMIE OLIVER PAUL STUART

EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING JOHN GARLAND CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA EDITORIAL INTERNS LELAH BYRON, HOLLY GILVARY, SARA HAFFTEN, SAM JOHNSON, CAITLIN KOSEC, CYNTHIA MAYA-ARRIETA, EMALYN MUZZY AND AARON XIONG CREATIVE DIRECTOR TONYA SUTFIN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR TED ROSSITER ADVERTISING TRAFFIC MANAGER LY NGUYEN PUBLISHING & SALES COORDINATOR JOHANNA MORIARTY VOLUME 17, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

winter 2021 real food 3

bites

Loaves and Wishes

PAIN D’ÉPICES

These delicious shareable loaf cakes will make holiday breakfast or tea time a treat

hen the holidays roll around, everything is a little sweeter. Baking something sweet and shareable for the special people you spend time with, or to give as a gift this holiday season, will be greatly appreciated. That’s where loaf cake comes in. The breakfast favorite gets jazzed up in these recipes from “Banana Breads, Loaf Cakes & Other Quick Bakes,” a collection by Ryland, Peters & Small. Chocolate and yogurt make for a tasty twist on the ever-pop-

4 real food winter 2021

ular banana bread. Perfect for treating coworkers, friends and family, this decadent sweet is great anytime throughout the year, too. If you’re looking for a more traditionally flavored festive treat, you can’t go wrong with French gingerbread cake—Pain d’épices. Either of these would be perfect with your morning coffee, or to keep around the house whenever a sweet snack is in order—if you and your family can manage to leave leftovers, that is. —sam johnson

Pain d’épices MAKES 1 (2-POUND) LOAF RECIPE BY ANNIE RIGG | PHOTO BY LISA LINDER

This is a delicious French gingerbread cake. Make it a couple of days before you want to eat it so that the ﬂavors of all the spices have time to mellow with the honey. Serve it in slices on its own or with a lick of butter. 1¾ 2 1 3 ¼ ¼ ¼ 10

⅓ ½ 2 3

cups all-purpose ﬂour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoons ground ginger teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground cloves teaspoon salt tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing cup light brown sugar cup clear honey eggs, lightly beaten to 4 tablespoons milk

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2-pound loaf pan and line with parchment paper. 2. Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, cloves and salt together into a mixing bowl and set aside. 3. Put the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a large mixing bowl and a hand-held electric mixer) and cream them until pale and light. 4. Add the honey and mix again. Gradually add the beaten eggs, mixing well between each addition and scraping down the bowl with a rubber spatula from time to time. 5. Add the sifted dry ingredients and the milk and mix again until smooth. Spoon into the prepared loaf pan and spread evenly with a knife. 6. Bake in the preheated oven for about 1 hour, or until well risen and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. You may need to cover the cake loosely with a sheet of foil if it is browning too quickly. Leave it to cool in the pan for 5 minutes before tipping out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

CHOCOLATE, YOGURT AND BANANA TEA BREAD

Chocolate, Yogurt and Banana Tea Bread MAKES 2 (1-POUND) LOAVES | RECIPE BY MAXINE CLARK | PHOTO BY PETER CASSIDY

This is a real treat for children everywhere or the big kid that lurks in all of us. If making this for children, milk chocolate and a ﬂavored yogurt make a great combination, or for adults try really dark chocolate and natural yogurt. This really does improve with keeping—even for a day, if you are able to keep your hands off it. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing ¾ cup light brown sugar 2 large eggs, beaten ½ cup natural, banana or chocolate yogurt 3 very ripe bananas, mashed 2¼ cups self-rising ﬂour ½ teaspoon salt 7 ounces dark chocolate (60-70 percent cocoa solids) or milk chocolate (over 32 percent cocoa solids), grated grated chocolate and hazelnut spread to serve (optional) 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease 2 (1-pound) loaf pans and line with parchment paper. 2. Using a hand-held electric mixer, beat

the butter and sugar together in a large mixing bowl until well mixed (it won’t look very creamy). Gradually whisk in the eggs, little by little, then the yogurt, and finally stir in the mashed bananas. Fold in the flour and salt, then the grated chocolate. Spoon into the prepared loaf pans and smooth the surface. 3. Bake in the preheated oven for about 35 minutes, or until risen and firm and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. The loaves will crack on the top. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool completely. 4. Store in an airtight container for 1 day to mature before serving in thick slices with chocolate and hazelnut spread if you’re feeling particularly indulgent! n

winter 2021 real food 5

kitchen skills

The Cure

Try this dry-brining method for a moist and evenly cooked turkey BY JASON ROSS

he classic turkey roasting dilemma: How do you get the legs and thighs done without drying out the breast? It’s not easy. The legs take longer to cook and the large, lean breast tends to overcook and lose moisture. A liquid salt brine can work well, but takes a tremendous amount of refrigerator space—and that’s assuming you even have a container large enough to hold a turkey in a salt brine. The solution? You can get a similar effect by lightly curing, or “dry brining” while saving space and reducing mess. A little salting of the exterior penetrates into the turkey, seasoning the meat throughout and lessening the chance it dries out. As a bonus, the skin will crisp better since the salt dries it and makes it more flexible. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Dry Brined Roast Turkey with Giblet Gravy MAKES 10 TO 15 SERVINGS

This recipe takes a day, or up to 2 days, to salt and cure the turkey. Store uncovered so the skin will dry a little. If you are worried the raw turkey will touch something while curing in the refrigerator, cover with plastic film, and pat the skin dry with a paper towel before cooking. Remember to not re-season before cooking. The curing adds all the salt needed. For the Turkey 1 (12 to 15 pound) fresh or defrosted turkey with giblets removed 2 to 2½ tablespoons kosher salt (unless using a turkey injected with seasoning brine) ½ stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter 1 teaspoon ground pepper 1 tablespoon minced thyme 1 tablespoon minced sage 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 teaspoon paprika 1 garlic clove, finely minced For the Giblet Gravy MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (ABOUT 10 TO 15 SERVINGS)

2 quarts water 1 turkey neck 1 turkey gizzard ¾ stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter 1 turkey liver, minced 1 turkey heart, minced 1½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon granulated garlic 1 shallot finely minced (about 3 tablespoons) 1 carrot, minced (about ½ cup) 6 real food winter 2021

1 rib celery, minced (about ½ cup) ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup white wine (whatever you are drinking with dinner, or you could use water or low sodium broth) 1. Plan on using ½ teaspoon of salt per pound of turkey, making it 2 to 2½ tablespoons for the 12- to 15-pound bird used here. In a large mixing bowl, season the turkey by sprinkling it all over with salt, including inside the cavity, and under and around the wings, legs and thighs. Make some room in the refrigerator, place the turkey on a rack on top of a sheet tray, and refrigerate uncovered overnight, or up to 48 hours. The turkey will first release moisture with wet skin, and then the skin will dry and start to become flexible and stretchy. 2. After curing, heat the oven to 425°F, and remove the turkey from the refrigerator. Pour out any moisture collected in the sheet tray. In a small sauce pan on medium low heat melt the butter with the pepper, thyme, sage, parsley, paprika and garlic. Brush the turkey skin with the seasoned melted butter, and place turkey onto rack and pan. You can use a roasting pan with a V-style rack or a sheet tray and flat rack.

3. Cook the turkey at 425°F for 45 minutes or until the skin just starts to brown, then lower the heat to 325°F. Plan on cooking it for 20 minutes per pound, brushing the turkey with the butter and herbs every 30 to 40 minutes until the butter is gone. After that, baste with the drippings. For a 12- to 15-pound turkey, it should take 4 or 5 hours to cook, respectively. 4. While the turkey is cooking, start the gravy. In a medium sized pot, make light turkey broth by simmering the neck and gizzard in 2 quarts of water for 2½ to 3 hours, or until the turkey neck is fully cooked, with meat easily pulling away from the bone when jabbed with a fork. You should end up with about 1½ quarts of broth. 5. After it is cooked, remove the gizzard and neck to a plate, and allow to cool for about 15 minutes or until it’s cool enough to handle. Then, pull any meat from the neck and mince along with the gizzard. Discard the neck bone. If the turkey is still cooking in the oven, store the minced turkey neck and gizzard covered on a plate, and the broth in a covered container until the turkey comes out of the oven. 6. Check the turkey by inserting a thermometer into the thickest part of the leg and thigh joint. This is the critical part. The dark meat needs to come to 165°F on the thermometer, but not any higher. Think of every degree higher as moisture being removed from the breast. There are other things you can look for—browned skin, juices run clear from the thigh, leg joint feeling loose—but by far the most accurate is to check for 165°F at the thickest part of the thigh joint. 7. When the turkey is done, pull the pan from the oven. Use a pair of tongs and a 2-pronged fork to carefully move the turkey to a large plate or pan to rest, loosely covered with aluminum foil for about 30 minutes. 8. In a medium-sized sauce pot, melt the ¾ stick butter on medium heat. Add the minced liver and heart. Season with salt, pepper and garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes until lightly browned. Add the shallot, carrot and celery, and sauté for another 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently with a Continued on page 8

DRY BRINED ROAST TURKEY WITH GIBLET GRAVY

contributors

Robin Asbell spreads

Turkey Tips n You could rest the turkey for longer than 30 minutes after cooking, depending on timing of your holiday meal. The turkey will stay warm for over an hour. n Estimate ½ teaspoon salt per pound of turkey for curing and at least a day in the refrigerator. n It takes a long time to defrost a turkey. Plan on 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator for a 12- to 15-pound turkey. n If you’re crazy for crispy skin, clarify the basting butter. This removes water from the butter and allows the butter fats to brown more easily. To clarify butter, melt it in a small pan and skim off the solids on top with a spoon. Continue simmering for 30 minutes on low, then strain the butter through cheese cloth. n If you do not have a roasting pan and V-rack, a sheet tray and flat cooling rack work well, plus the low sided pan lets more heat reach the sides and under the turkey, increasing browning and speeding up cooking time. n Stay involved as the turkey inches toward being done, checking temperature more frequently. You are trying to get right at the 165°F reading at the leg and thigh joint, but not over. The leg and thigh will taste fine at higher temperatures, but the breast will dry more with every extra degree of temperature. n Jacques Pépin, the famous television chef, recommends slitting the skin at the joint where the thigh meets the carcass. This allows a little more heat into the thigh, so that it will cook more evenly with the breast. It mars the turkey slightly, but this part of the turkey will mostly be hidden underneath. n If you’re squeamish about eating giblets in gravy, you can still get the flavor, and then strain gravy before serving. But give it a try. Gravy is the best part and giblets make it even better.

the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “Great Bowls of Food,” “Big Vegan,” “Gluten-Free Pasta” and more.

Terry Brennan

is a photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the re n ow n e d N ew Fre n c h Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Jason Ross

nutrition

INGREDIENTS PER RECIPE MAY VARY; NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING ESTIMATE. BRINED TURKEY: CALORIES: 630, FAT: 29G (SAT: 8G), CHOLESTEROL: 305 MG, SODIUM: 1410 MG, CARB: 0G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 90G GIBLET GRAVY (WITH ABOUT 1 CUP OF TURKEY DRIPPINGS USED): CALORIES: 230, FAT: 19G (SAT: 8G), CHOLESTEROL: 105 MG, SODIUM: 400 MG, CARB: 4G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: <1G, PROTEIN: 7G

8 real food winter 2021

simmer on low for 5 to 10 minutes. 9. While the gravy simmers, put the pan used to cook the turkey on the stovetop on medium. When the pan is hot, and turkey drippings start to deepen in color, pour in the white wine. It should sizzle. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up bits of browning from the pan, and when the wine has nearly evaporated and the smell of raw alcohol has dissipated, pour in the remaining 2 cups broth (or if you have run out, substitute water or low sodium broth) to loosen the reduced wine. Strain this liquid into gravy, simmering on the stove. 10. Adjust gravy by adding water if it is too thick, or by simmering a little longer if it is thin. Taste the gravy, add salt and pepper if needed, and pour into a serving vessel. 11. Put the turkey on a platter, and if you are feeling like putting on a show, carve it tableside, spooning gravy over each plate. n

Molly Stevens

is a cooking instructor, writer and recipe developer. Her cookbooks include “All About Dinner” as well as the James Beard and IACP cookbook award winners “All About Braising” and “All About Roasting.” She has been named Cooking Teacher of the Year by both Bon Appétit and IACP. Stevens’ recipes and articles have appeared regularly in a number of national publications. She lives in Vermont and travels the country to teach, cook and eat. Find out more about her writing and teaching schedule at mollystevenscooks.com.

TURKEY TIMER ADOBE STOCK / KRISTEN

wooden spoon until softened. Add the flour and quickly stir to distribute it and soak up moisture or butter. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Switch to a whisk and slowly add about 1 quart of the reserved turkey broth, whisking to avoid lumps. You should have a little broth left over to help deglaze the turkey roasting pan. Add the minced neck and gizzard to the gravy and

is a chef consultant for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high-profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

Lunds & Byerlys

welcome

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Nokomis: 612-729-4000 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200 SHOP ONLINE Shop.LundsandByerlys.com CATERING LundsandByerlys.com/Catering 952-897-9800 L&B EXTRAS Get extra offers and tools to make shopping easier. LundsandByerlys.com/Extras DOWNLOAD OUR APP LundsandByerlys.com/Mobile STAY CONNECTED Follow us on social media and sign up for our e-newsletter. LundsandByerlys.com/StayConnected FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE experts: 952-548-1400 REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

The Talk of the Table T he gift of spending time with family and friends is undoubtedly the highlight of the holiday season. And, if you’re like me, you also look forward to the wonderful meals we will enjoy together. Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we always want to make sure those meals are the talk of the table. As a family-owned company we take a tremendous amount of pride in partnering with other family-owned companies who share our commitment to care and quality in everything they do, such as those who provide our L&B Manhattan Roasts and L&B Apple Cider Brined Turkey Breasts. While you begin planning your holiday meals, be sure to check out page 11 to learn about these and many of the other great options you’ll find in our meat department. As many of you likely know, all of our premium choice and American Wagyu beef, including our Manhattan Roasts and patented Reserve Aged Beef, comes to us from Double R Ranch and its parent company, Agri Beef Co. It’s a partnership that began in 2009 as we set out to find a beef supplier that is sharply focused on every aspect of their operations around quality, integrity, innovation and sustainability. Agri Beef is a multi-generational, family-owned company that is recognized for raising high-quality cattle. Many of our meat and seafood department managers have visited Double R Ranch in the Cascade Mountains of the Pacific Northwest to get an up-close and personal look at

their genuine commitment to animal well-being and environmental stewardship. It’s a legacy that began with the late Robert Rebholtz Sr. and continues today under the leadership of his son, Robert Rebholtz Jr. We’re also thrilled to partner with Ferndale Market for our exclusive L&B Apple Cider Brined Turkey Breasts. Ferndale Market is located in Cannon Falls, Minnesota, and owned by John Peterson, a third-generation turkey farmer. Our Executive Chef Michael Selby is the mastermind behind our L&B Apple Cider Brined Turkey Breasts, and he visited Ferndale Market when we were searching for the perfect turkeys for this holiday centerpiece. “The passion and authenticity that goes into raising their turkeys is incredible. It was just what we were looking for,” Selby said. “On a tour of the grounds, we discovered Ferndale Market is immaculate and free range like nothing we’ve seen before. Not only do the birds enjoy a free-range environment, but they’re also rotated to fresh grass weekly. What a gift to know where your food comes from and that it has been raised responsibly.” From our L&B family to your family, we wish you a wonderful holiday season filled with joy, laughter and, of course, Real Food. Sincerely,

Tres Lund president and ceo

The Snake River Farms Story

In addition to our premium choice beef, we also carry Agri Beef’s remarkable Snake River Farms American Wagyu Beef. Scan this QR code to see a story CBS This Morning: Saturday aired this summer.

lundsandbyerlys.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys

produce

The Guide to

Sweet Potatoes&Yams I

n America there has been a long history of using “sweet potato” and “yam” interchangeably, when in fact they are different root vegetables. True yams are native to Africa and most are so large (some can grow to 7 feet long), it’s rare to find whole yams in the store; if available, they’re usually cut into chunks and wrapped in plastic. The

sweet potato is native to Central America and some are shaped like a regular potato (though they are not related to them either), while others are longer with tapered ends. The moist-fleshed orange sweet potato (especially Covington and Jewel) is the variety most often mistakenly called a yam.

Storing Spuds

Covington, Jewel

Rosy pink and orange skin with a bright orange flesh. Sweet and moist when cooked.

Roast, bake, mash or use to make sweet potato pie or sweet potato fries. Perfect for traditional baking and casseroles.

Bonita, Jersey

Tan or white skin with a light yellow interior. Slightly sweet with a creamy texture.

Roast, mash, bake or use in soups and stews.

Red Garnet

Dark red skin with orange and red flesh. Sweet and moist when cooked.

Roast, mash or use to make sweet potato pie or sweet potato fries.

Japanese

Purple skin with a light white interior. Slightly sweeter than a Covington or Jewel. Dry in texture.

Roast, mash, bake or use in soups and stews.

Stokes Purple

Purple skin with a deep, rich purple interior. Dry in texture. High in antioxidants.

Bake, steam, boil, roast or fry. The drier texture of this potato lends better to high-moisture cooking methods.

You’ve found the perfect sweet potato, now make sure you store them properly to remain fresh up to two weeks. Avoid storing them in the refrigerator, which will produce a hard center and unpleasant taste. Instead, opt for cool, dry and well-ventilated areas away from heat sources. n 10 real food winter 2021

POTATOES IN CRATE ADOBE STOCK / PITAK AREEKUL

VA R I E T Y C HA R AC T E R I S T I C S U S E S

Lunds & Byerlys

meat department

Holiday Table

Centerpieces Let Lunds & Byerlys take care of the mouthwatering main course for your holiday dinner

Manhattan Strip Roast

Imperial Beef Tenderloin

Our Manhattan Strip Roast is cut from a tender section of Choice New York Strip and lightly marinated with an exclusive combination of olive oil, French sea salt and spices. It cooks in less than an hour and is boneless, so it’s easy to slice and serve. Available in November and December.

This holiday hit is the pinnacle of oven-ready indulgence. It is marinated fresh in a coarse ground blend of gray sea salt, hints of smoked alder wood and robust herbs including rosemary and thyme. Each is carefully netted and right-sized for ease of preparation. Available in December.

Spiral Sliced Dry Honey Glazed Bone-In Ham

Royal Rib Roast

TWO SAUCES ADOBE STOCK / SERGHEI PLATONOV

This is ham the way it should be. Made using an old-fashioned smoking process perfected by a fourth-generation family-owned smokehouse, the hams have subtle smoky-sweet flavor that’s not too salty and a firm texture that is never dry. Spiral sliced for easy serving. Available daily.

Our bone-in Royal Rib Roasts are the ideal pairing of premium choice beef and top-shelf local herbs and spices. The marinade is savory, not salty, and very aromatic. Plus, these royal roasts are incredibly easy to cook! Each cut—king, queen or princess—is right-sized by the number of servings. Available in December.

Apple Cider Brined Turkey Breast

Reserve Aged Rib Roast

Go local this holiday season with turkey from family farm Ferndale Market in Cannon Falls. Succulent all-natural turkey breasts are brined in fresh-pressed apple cider made from Minnesota-grown apples and seasoned with herbs, shallots and sea salt, resulting in a rich, clean flavor. Available in November and December.

This is aged a minimum of 28 days to achieve optimal flavor and tenderness using a patented process developed by our Executive Chef Michael Selby. Much the way an oak barrel promotes aging of wine, we use untreated cedar during the aging of this roast to accentuate subtle aromas and provide an unmatched depth of flavor and tenderness. Available daily.

NEW L&B Sauces Dinner is served—but don’t forget the sauces! Our new L&B Au Jus Sauce and L&B White Truffle Hot Sauce make the perfect accompaniment to your holiday meal. The au jus sauce is bold and tangy with a hint of horseradish and smoke. We like to use it as a finishing sauce drizzled over beef. If you want to spice things up, try our new white truffle hot sauce, which melds savory truffles with zippy pepper and a hint of agave nectar. It’s a little earthy and a little spicy and outstanding on beef, chicken or pork. n

lundsandbyerlys.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys

deli

FRESH C H EESE

Chèvre

How to Build a

Cheeseboard

Made from goat’s milk. Soft and bright. Other options: Mascarpone, mozzarella and ricotta

he key to building a great cheeseboard is to have a nice variety of cheese flavors and textures. Here we've selected some different cheese profiles to try, but if you'd like even more delicious recommendations, visit our cheese counter and speak to a cheese specialist!

B LUE C HE E S E

Gorgonzola

Tangy and creamy cow’s milk cheese. Other options: Stilton and Roquefort

S E M I - H A R D CHE E S E

Manchego and Cheddar

Manchego is a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese that’s nutty and caramelly. Cheddar is a classic cow’s milk cheese that’s sharp and smooth. Other options: Gruyère and Gouda

HAR D CHEESE

Parmesan

Dense, sweet and nutty cow’s milk cheese. Other options: Piave and Romano

B LO O M Y- RIND C H EESE

Triple Crème Brie

No Cheese Stands Alone

Complete your cheeseboard with a variety of finger foods to complement the cheeses. The more the merrier—so get creative! Here are some recommendations to get you started: Meats: salami or prosciutto Veggies: cucumbers, olives, pickled red onions or peppadew peppers n Fruit: cherries, blackberries, dried n

12 real food winter 2021

apricots, sliced pears or apples Spreads and dips: fig jam, honey or L&B pepper jelly n Crunchy: nuts, crackers or baguette n

Creamy, buttery cow’s milk cheese with an earthy finish. Other options: Bûcheron and Camembert n

Lunds & Byerlys

wines & spirits

12 Days of

Wine, Beer & Whiskey Whether you need a gift for that hard-to-buy-for person or want something to enjoy yourself, our curated 12 Days boxes are the ultimate treat this holiday season. For a limited time, visit our Wines & Spirits stores to pick up your 12 Days of Wine, Beer and Whiskey and start sipping!

12 Days of Wine

12 Days of Beer

12 Days of Whiskey

This box includes 12 hand-selected 375-milliliter bottles, which serve two glasses of wine each. Our Wines & Spirits team selected a wide range of wines in different styles and varieties from several countries, from Chardonnay and sparkling rosé to Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and everything in between. We recommend creating your own wine tasting with this box as a fun, delicious way to sip and sample through this festive season. WINES INCLUDE: Four Graces Pinot Noir (a Lunds & Byerlys exclusive), Lucien Albrecht sparkling rosé and Roederer Estate brut.

Our beer box features 16-ounce cans from 12 Minnesota breweries. This allows you to try a range of styles including stouts, sours, hazy IPAs, porters, cream ales, golden IPAs and more. You just may discover a new favorite! Our Wines & Spirits team also included a special beer that’s only available in this box! BEERS INCLUDE: Modist Cinnamon Roll Stout (exclusive to Lunds & Byerlys and the Modist tap room), Waconia Flashpoint Vanilla Cream Ale and Lupulin Imperial Chocolate Peanut Butter Porter.

This box includes 12 individual 50-milliliter bottles of truly special whiskies. Our Wines & Spirits team carefully curated a selection of bottles from well-known local and regional distillers. Plus, some of the bourbons and whiskies are limited edition and available only in our L&B 12 Days of Whiskey box. It’s the perfect gift for the whiskey lovers in your life. Tip: Use it to create your own exploratory tasting journey! WHISKIES INCLUDE: WhistlePig Piggyback Rye and Lunds & Byerlys’ exclusive barrel selections of J. Rieger Kansas City Whiskey and Dampfwerk Distilling 5 Year Bourbon. n

Note: WINE, BEER AND WHISKEY OFFERINGS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

lundsandbyerlys.com real food 13

L U N D S & B Y E R LY S

WHAT’S IN STORE 1

FOLLY COFFEE FOLLY’S FINEST ROASTER’S CHOICE

Folly Coffee is an award-winning coffee roaster located in St. Louis Park, Minnesota. Their newest offering—Folly’s Finest—features a rotating single-origin coffee selected by Folly Coffee head roaster Jeff, a certified Q-Grader (or licensed coffee cupper) and nationally ranked coffee taster. While the origin, processing method and flavor profile of Folly’s Finest may rotate periodically, there’s no doubt you’re getting the best-tasting, freshest roasted coffee beans available.

THE VILLAGE PIE MAKER PIES

Judith Ogden Larsen learned to make pies with her grandmother at age 10, which eventually led to her selling pies out of her pickup truck along Interstate 80 in her home state of Nebraska. Soon, customers and stores called to request the pies, and The Village Pie Maker was born. Even as the business grew, the commitment to hand-making each pie with the best quality ingredients remained the top priority. These take-andbake frozen fruit pies come in old-fashioned flavors such as cherry, apple and berry medley and are easily baked at home for the ultimate comforting dessert.

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L&B DILL PICKLE BLOODY MARY MIX AND GREY GOOSE VODKA

Our new L&B Dill Pickle Bloody Mary Mix is going to be the star of your Bloody Mary bar. This zesty mix is available in our L&B Wines & Spirits locations and is packed with delicious flavors including dill pickle brine, jalapeño peppers, horseradish, vinegar and just a touch of molasses. For the ultimate Bloody Mary, mix L&B Dill Pickle Bloody Mary Mix with Grey Goose Vodka. Grey Goose is made with soft winter wheat and Gensac spring water in France, so it’s smooth, sweet and round on the palate. To amp up the flavor even more, add a dash of L&B Dill Pickle Hot Sauce before dressing it up with your Bloody Mary accoutrements.

SUPERIOR MINERAL WATER

A true, natural mineral water that’s sourced and bottled within the United States, Superior Mineral Water was discovered in a pristine Lake Superior aquifer. There it slowly filters through mineral-rich bedrock so it acquires bioavailable calcium, potassium, magnesium and bicarbonates, which offer natural hydration. Established in 2016, Superior Mineral Water’s state-of-the-art bottling facility is the first within the Lake Superior aquifer.

CEDAR’S FETA DIP

Get the pita chips and crackers ready! Cedar’s Feta Dip is a take on tyrosalata, a classic Greek feta dip that combines salty, creamy feta with garlic, oregano, black pepper and extra virgin olive oil to create the dip of your dreams. Cedar’s chefs draw on their lifelong expertise with Mediterranean foods to create this authentic recipe that is rich and creamy. Try it with pita bread, pita chips, sliced baguette, crackers, veggies or your favorite dipper.

L&B FRESHLY SQUEEZED JUICES

Enjoy the benefits of freshly squeezed juices without all that squeezing, twisting and sticky mess! Our refreshing, not-from-concentrate, L&B Freshly Squeezed Juices come in three varieties: orange juice, grapefruit juice and lemonade. Our orange and grapefruit juices are made in small batches with 100 percent juice and have been an L&B signature item for over 30 years. We love a glass in the morning as they’re a great source of vitamin C, but they also make delicious mimosas, cocktails and mocktails. The L&B Lemonade is crafted with just the right amount of sugar, making it a perfect thirst-quenching beverage on its own or a delicious mixer with iced tea, vodka or gin.

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Seeds to Nuts

Multipurpose seed and nut oils are wonderful additions to the pantry BY LELAH BYRON

xtra-virgin olive oil and canola oil are staples in every well-stocked pantry, but variety is the spice of life, so branch out to include seed and nut oils. They can be delightful options in savory vinaigrettes, sautéed dishes or sweet pastries. The following are a few readily available options to try.

OIL ADOBE STOCK / TSUBOYA WALNUT ADOBE STOCK / TIM UR SESAME ADOBE STOCK / ANDREY STAROSTIN PEANUTS ADOBE STOCK / MATES GRAPESEED ADOBE STOCK / GUMMY BEAR

6 to 12 months. For the holidays, toss together a salad of thinly sliced apples, toasted walnuts, peppery arugula—and perhaps a flavorful cheese such as Parmesan—with walnut oil and lemon. Walnut Oil With its rich, buttery taste and golden-brown hue, walnut oil wafts an earthy essence straight from the bottle, and virgin walnut oil truly shines when used as a complement to cooked dishes. Due to its low smoke point, virgin walnut oil may become bitter and burnt when heated over 320°F, and the same goes for roasted walnut oil. Instead, drizzle it on roasted vegetables such as parsnips and potatoes and use it in salad dressings. Alternatively, greasing baking tins with the oil adds a woodsy warmth to muffins, and it is a great glaze for grilled pears served with a dollop of whipped cream. Walnut oil offers a natural nuttiness, and is abundant with healthful unsaturated fatty acids, which may help lower cholesterol levels and reduce the risk of heart disease. When stored in a sunless, cool place, the shelf life of walnut oil is

Sesame Seed Oil Expressed from sesame seeds, this oil comes in two types. Much like walnut oil, toasted sesame oil is best used as a finishing oil rather than a cooking oil. Fragrant and flavorful, this condiment is key in Chinese, Korean and Japanese cuisine. Keep in mind, though, that toasted and untoasted sesame oils are not interchangeable; the former packs an umami punch, and is amber in color, whereas the latter is mild, light, and can be used to sauté. When added in the final stages of stir-fries, sauces or marinades, toasted sesame oil balances equally intense flavors such as chili oil and rice vinegar. A little goes a long way with this agreeably pun-

gent oil, but with a shelf life between 1.5 and 2.5 years, a standard 11-ounce bottle does not spoil easily. Additionally, while higher amounts of vitamins E and K are present in olive oil, toasted sesame oil contains sesamol, sesamin and sesamum, constituents which may be considered heart-healthy antioxidants. Combine toasted sesame oil, salt, sugar, and soy sauce for a cold cucumber salad blend (great with garlic and sesame seeds as garnishes). Or whisk together ginger, tamari and the oil to coat udon or sweet potato noodles.

Peanut Oil Peanut oil is fantastic for frying, with a smoke point of 450°F, and it comes in two kinds: regular (with characteristic peanut flavor) and refined (its longer-lasting counterpart, as it keeps up to one year). Southern-style holiday turkey fried in peanut oil stays both juicy and crisp. Although it

contains more saturated fat than olive oil, its high-temperature applications make peanut oil a great option for some wintertime warmth.

Grapeseed Oil This oft-overlooked oil is versatile, offering a simple and smooth alternative due to its “clean” taste. As a no-hassle all-star with a smoke point of 420°F, grapeseed oil is difficult to mismanage and even less likely to overwhelm the senses, with a nearly identical caloric intake and fat makeup to olive oil. The shelf life of this product is three months after opening—up to a year if refrigerated. Whether for searing or especially sautéing over low to high heats, grapeseed oil adds that mouth-watering bite to proteins and veggies while allowing the pure flavor of the ingredients to take center stage. Experiment with a variety of dishes, from roasted red pepper soup to tender pork roast. n

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healthy habits

What should be considered when first trying alternative flours? Although oats are naturally gluten-free, if you follow a gluten-free diet for medical reasons, ensure that your oat flour is certified gluten-free. This means that the flour did not come into contact with gluten-containing grains during the harvesting, processing or packaging.

Try versatile and nutritious gluten-free flours in treats and more that everyone can enjoy BY SARA HAFFTEN

aking and cooking together is a beloved tradition enjoyed by many families around the holidays. If anyone on your guest list follows a gluten-free diet due to celiac disease, or has food allergies or intolerances, this holiday season, try baking with alternative flours to have delicious goodies around everyone can enjoy. “Alternative flour is a real powerhouse in the kitchen,” writes Kim Lutz in her book, “The Alternative Flour Cookbook.” These flours are readily available and offer a variety of advantages for the home cook. They add both complex flavors and nutrients, including protein, fiber and minerals like iron and calcium. Alternative flours are also versatile, making it easy to create wheat-free quiches, frittatas, cakes, bread and more. Real Food reached out to Lutz to learn more about these flours and she shared her thoughts via email. (Answers edited for space and clarity.)

What are your top alternative flours available at grocery stores? Almond, oat, chickpea and spelt. How do you cook with these? Almond, chickpea and oat flour are gluten-free. For best results, use recipes that were developed using these flours, rather 18 real food winter 2021

than substituting for all-purpose flour. You can make a gluten-free flour that can be substituted one-for-one for all-purpose flour by combining equal parts oat flour and chickpea flour. Spelt flour (not gluten-free) is related to wheat flour and can be an equal substitute in any of your favorite recipes.

What alternative flours are best for what uses? Almond flour lends itself to delicious, delicate cookies. It can also be used to make instant almond milk, blended into flavorful almond butters, and integrated into nutty granola. It can be transformed into savory vegan, dairy-free cheeses, as well. Chickpea flour can be combined with oat flour for a versatile gluten-free all-purpose flour replacement. It also adds texture and structure to vegan main dishes like seitan and quiche. Chickpea flour also works well for vegan omelets and breakfast sandwiches. Oat flour has a delicious flavor and adds a moist texture to baked goods. Because its protein structure has binding properties similar to wheat flour, you can bake with it without needing an additional binder like xanthan gum. If you do need a binding agent for holiday baking, what do you recommend? Because gluten (the protein in wheat, barley, rye, and spelt) binds molecules

FLOURS ADOBE STOCK / DAARNAUTOVA

Alternative Flours

To mill or not to mill? And how do you prep and store alternative flours? I prefer to buy commercially milled flours rather than milling my own at home. The main reason being that the texture of commercially milled flour is consistently fine, which is exactly what you want for nicely textured baked goods during the holiday season. It is easy to find organic milled flour at your local grocery store as well. Also, it can be expensive to buy a grain mill, not to mention the problem of storing it. If you have unused flour in need of storage, keep it in a sealed container in a cool, dark place, where it will keep for up to six months. If you buy flour in bulk and need to store a portion of it for a longer period, simply seal it securely and keep it in the freezer for up to a year or more.

“Whole-grain spelt flour gives breads and cakes a better texture and flavor than whole-wheat flour. Also note: No amount of gluten is safe for people with Celiac. White spelt is a one-for-one substitute for white all-purpose flour and can really step in if wheat flour bothers your belly.” — KIM LUTZ

together, resulting in baked goods with a pleasant texture, gluten-free bakers rely on other methods to obtain that cohesion. I depend on the binding properties of the protein in oats for baking gluten-free. Many other bakers, however, rely on an additional binder, such as xanthan gum. A common food additive used to thicken and stabilize recipes and packaged foods, xanthan gum is produced when sugar, in the form of glucose, sucrose or lactose, is fermented by bacteria and then dehydrated and made into a powder. When the product is rehydrated in a recipe for bread, for example, it replicates the binding activity of gluten.

COOKIES ADOBE STOCK / ALI SAFAROV

Any other alternative flour tips? When you are getting started with alternative flours, begin with recipes that were created for their specific properties. And remember, don’t taste the batter when you are baking with chickpea flour—it doesn’t taste good until it is cooked. n

Snowball Cookies MAKES 20 COOKIES

Whether you call these cookies Snowballs, Mexican Wedding Cakes or Russian Tea Cakes, they are probably my favorite cookie. By using almond flour instead of chopped or finely ground nuts, which you’ll find in traditional recipes, you get an even distribution of nutty flavor throughout the cookie along with plenty of buttery smoothness. These cookies are a little crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and just perfect overall. —Kim Lutz

½ ¾ 1 2 ¾ ¼

cup vegan butter (stick, not tub) cup powdered sugar, divided teaspoon vanilla cups oat flour (gluten free, if necessary) cup almond flour teaspoon salt

1. Add the vegan butter to a stand mixer or use an electric mixer and beat for 1 to 2 minutes until the butter is soft. Add ½ cup of the powdered sugar to the butter until it is creamy and light. 2. Add the vanilla to the butter and sugar mixture and beat it in with a spoon. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the oat flour, almond flour and salt. 4. Mix the dry ingredients into the butter mixture. The dough should hold together when squeezed between your fingers. 5. Cover the dough and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or up to one day. 6. Heat the oven to 400°F. 7. Roll the dough into 1½-inch balls and place them about 1 inch apart on an ungreased cookie sheet (or use parchment paper for an easier cleanup). 8. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes or until they’re golden. 9. Remove the cookies from the baking sheet and let them cool on a wire rack for about 5 minutes. 10. Place the remaining powdered sugar in a bowl. Roll the warm cookies in the powdered sugar. Let the cookies cool completely, and then roll them in the powdered sugar again to give them a generous coat.

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COMFORT & Celebrate with new favorites throughout the season BY MOLLY STEVENS

or many, the holidays are about balance, like taking time to reflect on the past year while looking forward to what comes next. Or finding a balance between celebrating time-honored traditions while trying new experiences to keep pace with our fast-changing, evermore-connected world. There is also the challenge of balancing our own energies throughout the hectic pace of the season so that we can find time to relax and enjoy ourselves. With this in mind, we’ve created a holiday menu that offers a balance of familiar and new, bright flavors and comfort, make-ahead convenience and show-stopping deliciousness. The recipes take inspiration from a handful of different countries and regions. If you’re merely looking to liven up your usual holiday menu, pick one or two of these to serve alongside your family favorites—they’ll fit right in. Or prepare the entire menu and discover a whole new equilibrium this holiday season.

PHOTOGRAPHY

TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING

LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Party Potato Pancakes with Herbed Sour Cream MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS (24 BITE-SIZE PANCAKES)

Serve these crisp, golden bite-size potato pancakes with a simple dollop of herb-flecked sour cream or dress them up by adding a strip of silky cured salmon. Modeled on traditional Hanukkah latkes, these are oven-baked (instead of pan-fried) making them easier on the cook —and on the dish-doer. For the Topping ½ cup sour cream or créme fraîche 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs, such as dill and/or chives Salt, to taste 2 ounces thinly-sliced gravlax or smoked salmon, cut into small pieces (optional) For the Pancakes 1 pound russet potatoes 1 small yellow onion 1 large egg, lightly beaten ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (optional) ½ to 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Vegetable or olive oil (or olive-oil pan spray)

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Brush 2 nonstick baking sheets with oil (or spray with pan spray). 2. Combine the sour cream (or créme fraîche) and herbs in a small bowl. Season with salt to taste. Set aside. 3. Peel the potatoes and onion, and grate them using the large holes of a box grater or the shredding blade of a food processor. Pile the shreds into the center of a clean kitchen towel, gather the edges, and twist into a bundle. Holding the towel over a medium glass bowl, squeeze forcefully to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve the liquid, allowing the potato starch to settle on the bottom of the bowl. 4. Put the potatoes and onions in a medium mixing bowl and add the eggs and thyme, if using. Pour off and discard the clear liquid that has separated from the

white potato starch, and add the starch to the potato-onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. 5. Form pancakes by dropping tablespoons-full of batter onto the baking sheets and flattening into disks. Bake until brown on the bottom, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and flip the pancakes. Continue baking until nicely browned on both sides and crisp, another 6 to 7 minutes. 6. Serve topped with a dollop of herbed sour cream and, if desired, a piece of gravlax or salmon. Cook’s Note n Potato pancakes are best served warm, but you can bake them early in the day and reheat before serving. Just leave them out, uncovered, on a baking sheet. (The pancakes turn soggy if refrigerated.) To serve, reheat in a 450°F oven until hot, 4 to 5 minutes. Top and serve as explained above.

Braised Red Cabbage with Apples and Bacon MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Ordinary red cabbage turns luxuriously tender and full of complex flavor when slowly simmered with a mix of warm spices, sweet apples, a bit of smoky bacon and the brace of cider vinegar. A fine addition to any winter meal, this hearty dish is a fixture on holiday tables from the American Midwest to Northern Europe and beyond. 2 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch-wide strips 1½ tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced Salt and pepper, to taste 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 medium head red cabbage (1½ to 2 pounds), cored and shredded 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, plus more to taste 1 cup chicken broth or apple cider [or water] 1 cinnamon stick 4 or 5 whole allspice berries

1. Place the bacon in a large deep ovenproof skillet and set over medium heat. Cook until the bacon renders its fat and begins to crisp, 5 minutes. 2. Add the butter to the bacon and fat in the pan and stir in the sliced onion. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sauté, stirring a few times, until the onion turns limp, about 2 minutes. Add the apple and ginger and stir to combine. Add the cabbage a few handfuls at a time, stirring frequently, until the cabbage begins to wilt, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar and broth (or cider or water) and bring to a simmer. Tuck in the cinnamon stick and allspice berries.

3. Cover the pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, about 1 hour. Remove the cinnamon stick and allspice berries. Taste, adjusting the seasoning as needed with salt, pepper and/or a splash of vinegar as needed. Serve warm or at room temperature. Cook’s Notes n You can serve the cabbage as soon as it’s done, or slide it to the back of the stove to sit, covered, for a couple of hours. Reheat before serving. n The cabbage can also be made up to 2 days ahead. Refrigerate, tightly covered. Reheat gently in a covered skillet or warm oven and check seasonings before serving.

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Wheat Berry Salad with Honey Vinaigrette MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Inspired by a variety of fruit-and-nut studded wheat berry dishes served on special occasions across Eastern Europe and the Caucasus, this whole-grain salad makes a uniquely satisfying side dish for a holiday roast. Wheat berries take longer to cook than most grains, but an overnight soak shortens the cooking time considerably. You can also substitute other whole grains, such as farro and barley. 2 cups wheat berries (see Cook’s Notes) 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1¼ cups hazelnuts or pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped 1¼ cups dried apricots, coarsely chopped 8 scallions, white and pale green parts, trimmed and chopped 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley For the Vinaigrette 2 tablespoons honey ⅓ cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Pinch salt, plus more to taste ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil Black pepper, to taste 1. Put the wheat berries in a bowl and cover them with cool water. Cover the bowl loosely and soak overnight. Drain. 2. Bring 2½ quarts of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the wheat berries and bay leaf and simmer until tender, 50 to 60 minutes. Drain well, discarding the bay leaf. Transfer the wheat berries to a large bowl and toss with the 1 tablespoon olive oil. 3. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey,

balsamic, Dijon and a pinch of salt. Whisk in the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. 4. Once the wheat berries have cooled to room temperature, add the nuts, apricots, scallions and parsley. Toss to combine. Pour over enough vinaigrette to coat, toss, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more vinaigrette as needed (save any extra for another use). Serve at room temperature. Cook’s Notes n If you don’t have time to soak the wheat berries overnight, expect the cooking time to be closer to 1½ to 2 hours. n Grain salads are a great choice for make-ahead sides. Once dressed, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Check for dressing and seasoning just before serving (it often needs an extra splash of dressing and pinch of salt after sitting).

Citrus-Garlic Marinated Pork Roast MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

In many tropical climates, an outdoor pig roast is one of the most festive—and flavorful— ways to commemorate the holidays, but it requires a fair amount of work and tending. Here’s a more modest approach that captures the flavor and goodness of this magnificent feast within the confines of an ordinary kitchen. Allow the pork to marinate for at least 18 hours for best flavor. For the Marinade 1 tablespoon ground cumin (see Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper (see Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1½ teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon table salt) Pinch cayenne ⅔ cup fresh orange juice ⅓ cup fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (4- to 5-pound) boneless pork shoulder or blade roast (see Cook’s Notes) ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a small bowl. Place the pork in a large resealable plastic bag or large bowl, and pour over the marinade. Turn the meat to make sure the marinade is well distributed. Refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours, turning occasionally to marinate evenly. Remove the pork from the refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before roasting. 2. Heat the oven to 325°F. Place the pork, fat-side up, in a shallow roasting pan and pour the marinade over the top. Roast, basting every 45 minutes, adding water (about ½ cup at a time) if the drippings dry up or get too dark, until an instantread thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the roast registers 155°F to 160°F, 2 to 2½ hours.

3. Transfer the pork to a carving board to rest for about 20 minutes. Skim most of the clear fat from the pan juices and discard (or save for another use). Add the cilantro to the pan juices. Slice the roast into thick slices and pour the pan juices over the meat to serve. Cook’s Notes n For the juiciest, most flavorful pork roast, look for one from the shoulder, either Boston butt or blade roast, or a sirloin roast from the leg. n To punch up the flavor of the marinade, start with whole cumin seed and whole peppercorns. Combine them in a small skillet over medium heat and toast until fragrant and beginning to darken. Cool and then grind in a spice grinder or mortar.

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Brown Sugar Butter Tarts MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL TARTS

A fair amount of mystery—and some lively debate—surrounds the origins of these tender tarts, but they can be found in most every region of Canada. Their popularity rests in the irresistible contrast between the crisp, flaky crust and the luscious gooey, caramel-like filling. Purists insist on nothing but brown sugar and sweet butter in the filling, while others add pecans or raisins—or even a few morsels of dark chocolate. You can’t go wrong either way. For the Pastry 1½ cups pastry flour (or 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour), plus more for dusting Pinch fine sea salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch bits 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) cold cream cheese, cut into ½-inch bits 1 teaspoon white vinegar 2 tablespoons ice water For the Filling 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons lightly packed dark brown sugar 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ½ teaspoon white vinegar ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten Optional: ¼ cup chopped pecans, sultana raisins or chocolate chips (see Cook’s Notes) 1. For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and cream cheese and pulse until the butter and cream cheese are pea-sized. Add the vinegar and water and pulse again until the dough just comes together. Transfer the dough to a work surface and gently knead a few times to create a loose but cohesive dough. Shape into a rectangle about 1½ inches thick. Wrap in plastic and chill for about 1 hour. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F. 3. Dust your work surface and rolling pin with flour. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 10 by 17 inches and about ⅛-inch thick (see Cook’s Notes). Cut into 12 (4-inch) circles, rerolling the scraps as needed to fit all 12 circles. Fit the pastry into an ungreased standard 12-muffin tin, loosely pleating the sides and gently pressing the dough into the cups so that the pastry doesn’t sit above the top of the muffin cups. Refrigerate the muffin tin while you make the filling. 4. For the filling, combine the sugar, melted 26 real food winter 2021

butter, vanilla, vinegar and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the egg and mix until smooth. 5. If adding any of the optional flavorings (pecans, raisins or chocolate), divide them among the chilled tart shells. Pour the filling into the shells, filling each about halfway and doing your best not to drip over the edges. 6. Bake until the pastry is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, 18 to 20 minutes. 7. Let the tarts cool completely in the pan, running a knife around the edge of each 10 minutes after coming out of the oven and again before removing the tarts from the tin. Serve at room temperature. They can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 days. Cook’s Notes n For the perfect ratio of crispy pastry to gooey filling, the dough gets rolled out thinner than for most pies. Take care to flour your work surface and rolling pin. n In place of a 4-inch round cookie cutter, you can use a 4-inch bowl as a template and cut around it with a paring knife—or make a circle out of cardboard. n If using raisins, soak in warm water as the dough chills and drain before using. n

nutrition (p e r s e r v i n g) PARTY POTATO PANCAKES WITH HERBED SOUR CREAM (PER BITE-SIZED PANCAKE WITH SOUR CREAM TOPPING) CALORIES: 25, FAT: 1G (SAT: 0G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 80 MG, CARB: 4G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: <1G BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES AND BACON CALORIES: 120, FAT: 4.5G (SAT: 2G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 370 MG, CARB: 18G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 5G WHEAT BERRY SALAD WITH HONEY VINAIGRETTE CALORIES: 520, FAT: 33G (SAT: 4G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 60 MG, CARB: 55G, FIBER: 10G, SUGAR: 15G, PROTEIN: 9G CITRUS-GARLIC MARINATED PORK ROAST CALORIES: 430, FAT: 22G (SAT: 7G), CHOLESTEROL: 170 MG, SODIUM: 490 MG, CARB: 4G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 50G BROWN SUGAR BUTTER TARTS (PER TART) CALORIES: 270, FAT: 15G (SAT: 9G), CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 150 MG, CARB: 34G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 2G

ZOODLES ZOODLES WITH WITH SAGESAGEHAZELNUT HAZELNUT PESTO PESTO (SEE (SEE RECIPE RECIPE ON ON PAGE PAGE 37)XX)

Boost the percentage of veggies for a healthier take on favorite dishes BY ROBIN ASBELL

N T L PA

R W E P O W e all know we should eat more plants, but how do you work them into your meals? One strategy is to add more vegetables to everything you make—from the appetizer to the main course. You can enjoy your favorite foods with just a little tweak here and there to change the percentage of plants per bite. Your family will love the food, and you’ll be on your way to hitting your veggie-eating goals. In these dishes, the role of the veg is expanded just enough to nudge the meal in a healthy direction. One trick that helps slip more veggies into foods is the purée. A sauce, soup or dip can become part of your veggie servings when you make it with vegetables blended in. Try this chicken

breast, rolled around a savory spinach filling, then sauced with a purée of roasted peppers, for a sophisticated and pretty main course that hides the veggies in plain sight. Another trick is to make fillings with more vegetables, like in the Sweet Potato and Manchego Puffs. There is still tangy, melty cheese in the filling, but in balance with more veg. In the Butternut Stuffed Baked Shells, tender squash cubes take the place of ho-hum ricotta, making the dish more interesting and also vegetable rich. Try the Confetti Sheet Pan Frittata, where more vegetables are held together by just enough egg and Greek yogurt for a healthy breakfast or lunch. And you can make zucchini noodles as a vegetable stand-in for pasta.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Chicken and Spinach Rolls with Romesco Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS (1¾ CUPS SAUCE)

In this recipe, frozen spinach and roasted peppers from a jar will save you time and effort. 10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed and wrung dry (see Cook’s Note) 1 tablespoon fresh thyme ½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese 1 large egg ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper 4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided For the Romesco Sauce 1 (12-ounce) jar roasted red pepper ½ cup sliced almonds, toasted 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon smoked paprika 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1. Thaw the spinach and wring until dry, then spread on a kitchen towel and roll up to absorb any remaining water. In a medium bowl, combine the thyme, cheese, egg, salt and pepper and mix, then stir in the spinach. Reserve. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a baking pan with 1 teaspoon oil and reserve. 3. On a cutting board, trim each chicken breast. Place a breast on the board, smooth side down, with the pointed end closest to you. Find the side where the tender is attached, and use your chef’s knife to slice along the tender, halfway down into the breast. Turn your knife to slice parallel to the board and carefully slice toward the thicker side of the breast. Don’t cut all the way through. Open the flap and place a sheet of waxed paper on top, then use a small pot or meat hammer to lightly pound the meat to an even sheet. Repeat with all the breasts. 4. Spread ¼ cup of the spinach filling on each breast, leaving a ½-inch border. Roll the breasts up and place on the prepared pan, seam side down. Tuck the pointed “tail” under. Drizzle with remaining oil and sprinkle with salt. 5. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until an instant read thermometer inserted into a roll reads 160°F. 6. While the chicken bakes, prepare the sauce. Drain the peppers and pat dry. In a food processor, purée the toasted almonds to a fine powder, then add the peppers and process until smooth. Add sherry vinegar, salt and smoked paprika and process, then pour the olive oil in with the machine running. 7. Serve each chicken breast sliced across the grain, drizzled with about 6 tablespoons of Romesco sauce. Cook’s Note: Thaw the spinach in the refrigerator overnight. Or, just before you prepare the recipe, remove frozen spinach from the package, put in a bowl and microwave on defrost mode for 2 minutes, then stir and microwave another minute if necessary. 30 real food winter 2021

ZAP! DDS SPINACH A DOSE OF AN EXTRA C MINS A & IRON, VITA XIDANTS! AND ANTIO

W ! WO

T SQUASH BUTTERNU SOURCE IS A RICH S A , C AN D OF VITAMIN M. MAGNESIU

Baked Shells Stuffed with Squash and Fontina MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Butternut squash fans love its sweet flavor and bright orange flesh. They’ll adore it stuffed into pasta shells with creamy fontina cheese and sauced with a veggie-packed tomato sauce. If you need to break up the cooking time, the sauce and the filling can be made up to two days ahead, so you can prep and then assemble and bake. For the Sauce 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped ½ cup grated carrot 1 rib celery, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 (15-ounce) cans petite diced tomatoes, with juice 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon salt For the Shells 1 (12-ounce) package large shells (about 40 shells) 4 cups butternut squash, peeled and cut in ¼-inch cubes 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup parsley, chopped ½ cup white wine 12 ounces (3 cups) fontina cheese, shredded, divided 1. Put on a big pot of salted water to boil for the shells. Prepare a 9x13-inch baking pan and heat the oven to 400°F. 2. For the sauce: Place a large pot over medium-high heat and drizzle with olive oil. Add onion, carrot and celery and sauté, reducing heat when they start to sizzle. Cook over medium-low for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes and tomato sauce, basil and salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce to low and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes. 3. For the shells: In a large sauté pan, over medium-high heat, drizzle olive oil. Add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes, then add the butternut squash cubes and stir for 1 minute. Add the oregano, salt and parsley, stir, and add the wine. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to medium and braise the squash for 10 minutes. Uncover the pan; the squash should be tender and the pan almost dry. Transfer the squash to a bowl to cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. 4. When the squash is cooled, stir in 2 cups of the fontina cheese. 5. Cook shells according to package directions, about 10 minutes. 6. Ladle 1 cup sauce into the baking pan and spread it across the bottom. Stuff each shell with 2 tablespoons of filling and place in the baking pan, fitting them tightly together. When all are filled, spoon the remaining sauce over the shells, evenly covering them. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. 7. Bake for 30 minutes, until the cheese is golden and the pan of shells is bubbly. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving. 8. This will keep for 4 days, covered in the refrigerator, and 4 months in the freezer.

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Sweet Potato and Manchego Puffs MAKES 8 PUFFS

Manchego is an aged cheese with nutty, sweet flavor and a slightly crumbly, crystalline texture. It adds a lovely richness to the filling, with enough tanginess to balance the sweetness of the sweet potato. 1 (17.3-ounce) package puff pastry (2 sheets) 1½ cups diced sweet potato (about 1 medium potato) 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup chopped onion 1 clove garlic, chopped ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup aged Manchego cheese, finely grated, divided 1 large egg 1 teaspoon water Flour, for dusting countertop 1. Thaw puff pastry overnight in the refrigerator. It should be cold when you work with it. 2. Heat the oven to 375°F. 3. To dice the sweet potato, peel the potato, then slice it into thin slabs. Stack two slabs at a time and cut into long strips, then cut across into cubes. 4. In a medium sauté pan, drizzle the olive oil and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir for 5 minutes to soften, then add the garlic, thyme, salt and sweet potato cubes. Stir until the vegetables are sizzling, then add ½ cup water and cover the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the sweet potatoes steam for about 5 minutes. 5. Uncover the pan and pierce a sweet potato cube with the tip of a knife. The sweet potatoes should be tender and the pan almost dry. If there is any liquid in the pan, keep stirring over medium heat until it’s dry. Transfer the sweet potatoes to a bowl to cool. 6. When potatoes are cool, stir in all but 2 tablespoons of the shredded cheese, reserving it for topping. 7. In a cup, whisk the egg and water to make an egg wash. Get a pastry brush. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 8. To make the puffs, lightly flour a countertop and unfold one sheet of puff pastry on the flour. Press any cracks in the dough together and use a rolling pin to roll out to an even square. Use a pizza cutter or chef’s knife to cut in four squares about 5½ inches across. 9. Portion 3 tablespoons of the sweet potato filling into the center of each square, and brush around the filling with egg wash. Fold the pastry over to enclose the filling and press the edges together, then seal with the tines of a fork. Transfer each puff to the prepared pan, leaving 1 inch of space between them. When all the puffs are assembled, brush the tops with egg wash and sprinkle with the reserved cheese. 10. Bake for 20 minutes, until puffed and golden brown. Serve immediately. 34 real food winter 2021

M O B O

WEET ORANGE S IN ARE HIGH POTATOES D OTENE AN BETA CAR RCE LENT SOU AN EXCEL S C, B- 6 OF VITAMIN SSIUM. AND POTA

POW ! COLI: ADD BROC S FOLATE IT CONTAIN T EXCELLEN AND IS AN F VITAMINS SOURCE O ND C AN D A A RIENTS. PHYTONUT

Confetti Sheet Pan Frittata MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Whether you are feeding a crowd or just want to meal prep some healthy breakfasts, this is an easy and tasty solution. Simply spread a medley of colorful vegetables on a sheet pan and roast them, then pour a mix of Greek yogurt and eggs over them and top with cheese to bake. The thin layer bakes more quickly than a regular frittata, so breakfast will be on the table in less time. 1 1 1 1 ½ ½ 1 10 1½ 2

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil bunch broccoli, peel and chop stems (5 cups) red bell pepper, chopped large carrot, shredded (1 cup) teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon black pepper teaspoon salt, divided large eggs cups nonfat Greek yogurt ounces (about ⅔ cup) Gruyère cheese, shredded

1. Heat oven to 375°F. Spread the olive oil on the bottom and sides of a rimmed 10x15-inch sheet pan, then combine the broccoli, pepper and carrot on top of the oil. Sprinkle with thyme and ½ teaspoon salt. Toss to coat the vegetables with oil and spread evenly in the pan. Roast for 10 minutes. 2. While the vegetables roast, place the egg, yogurt and remaining salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. 3. When the vegetables are tender, carefully pour the eggs over the vegetables in the pan, use the tip of your knife to shift bits of veg so egg will flow around them, and top with cheese. 4. Bake until golden on top and puffed in the middle, about 25 minutes.

nutrition (p e r s e r v i n g) CHICKEN AND SPINACH ROLLS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE CALORIES: 410, FAT: 24G (SAT: 4.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 115 MG, SODIUM: 1190 MG, CARB: 10G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 35G BAKED SHELLS STUFFED WITH SQUASH AND FONTINA CALORIES: 670, FAT: 31G (SAT: 14G), CHOLESTEROL: 75 MG, SODIUM: 1520 MG, CARB: 70G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 14G, PROTEIN: 28G SWEET POTATO AND MANCHEGO PUFFS CALORIES: 310, FAT: 22G (SAT: 10G), CHOLESTEROL: 30 MG, SODIUM: 400 MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 6G CONFETTI SHEET PAN FRITTATA CALORIES: 170, FAT: 9G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 230 MG, SODIUM: 460 MG, CARB: 7G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 16G ZOODLES WITH SAGE-HAZELNUT PESTO NUTRITION: CALORIES: 210, FAT: 20G (SAT: 2.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 310 MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 6G, PROTEIN: 4G

Zoodles with Sage-Hazelnut Pesto MAKES 4 SERVINGS | PHOTO ON PAGE 30

Zucchini noodles are so popular that they are often available packaged in the produce department. This recipe calls for about 5 cups of the strands, so you will need 1 pound of prepared strands. You can always make your own with either a spiralizer or a vegetable peeler. 1½ 1 1 ¼

2 ½ ¼ 1 1 ½

pounds (3 medium zucchini) for 5 cups noodles cup grape tomatoes, halved clove garlic, crushed cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned (see Cook’s Note) tablespoons fresh sage, chopped cup fresh parsley cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon fresh lemon zest tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon salt

1. Trim the stem and the blossom ends from the zucchini, then use a spiralizer or a peeler to make into strands. Place in a large bowl. (If using packaged zoodles, simple place in the bowl.) 2. In a food processor, combine the garlic, hazelnuts, sage and parsley and process until very finely ground. Scrape down and process again, then add the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, and salt and process again. When smooth, scrape out on the zucchini strands. Add the halved tomatoes to the bowl, toss gently to coat. Serve immediately at room temperature. Cook’s Note: To toast and skin hazelnuts, heat the oven to 350° F. Spread the nuts on a sheet pan and toast for 10 minutes, then transfer the nuts to a bowl and rub with a kitchen towel to remove the skins. If some of the skins stubbornly refuse to come off, toast for 5 minutes longer, then rub again. n

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easy

apps Serve these small bites for fuss-free entertaining RECIPES BY KATHY KORDALIS

fter missing out on holiday celebrations with family and friends last season, it’s going to feel extra special to have parties this year. Food always plays a big role in celebrations, and some delicious small bites can be the perfect thing to whip up for dinner parties, ugly sweater contests, an afternoon of cookie decorating or an evening of cocktails. Instead of just putting out a bowl of chips, try these recipes from “Sharing Food with Friends” by Kathy Kordalis. The book takes shareable food up a notch with apps like crispy spinach-filled phyllo bites, sweet and sour shrimp skewers, and twists on nachos and hummus that are sure to impress. Plus, Kordalis offers beer and cheese pairing suggestions whether you would like to add them to your roster of small bites or make a night of it and host a craft beer and cheese pairing party. These are all easy ideas for fuss-free entertaining so you can enjoy your party, too. —emalyn muzzy 38 real food winter 2021

CHORIZO AND THREE-BEAN SMOKY NACHO PLATTER WITH AVOCADO AND CILANTRO SMASH AND JALAPEÑO YOGURT (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 40)

E D IT O R S ’ PA I R I N G S U G G E S T I O N

Margaritas or Mexican-style beers are perfect pairings, but a hearty red like Syrah or Zinfandel would be great, too.

Chorizo and Three-Bean Smoky Nacho Platter with Avocado and Cilantro Smash and Jalapeño Yogurt MAKES 6 SERVINGS | PHOTO ON PAGE 39

This is a twist on a Mexican classic and can be a great vegetarian option if you omit the chorizo and add an extra teaspoon of smoked paprika. For the Nacho Platter 3 whole-wheat tortillas cut into triangles or 3½ cups blue corn tortilla chips oil for spraying and frying 1½ cups chorizo, roughly chopped 1 red onion, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 large bunch of cilantro, stems finely chopped, leaves reserved 1 red chili finely chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon smoked chipotle paste or other chili paste (see Cook’s Note) 2 crushed garlic cloves 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ⅓ cup vegetable stock 1 (14-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed 1 (14 ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 (14 ounce) can aduki beans, drained and rinsed 1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juice 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce To Serve ½ cup sliced olives a handful of grated mozzarella Jalapeño Yogurt (recipe right) Avocado and Cilantro Smash (recipe right) ½ cup queso fresco or crumbled feta cheese 1. If using tortillas, preheat oven to 400°F 2. Arrange the tortilla triangles in a single layer on the baking sheets. Lightly spray with oil. Bake for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden. Cool on a wire rack. 3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chorizo and onion and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until the onion is soft. 4. Increase the heat to high. Add the ground cumin, cilantro stems and chili and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. 40 real food winter 2021

5. Add the tomato paste, chipotle or other chili paste, garlic, oregano and smoked paprika and stir for a further minute. 6. Stir in the vegetable stock, beans, canned tomatoes and Worcestershire sauce, bring to a boil and gently boil for 10 minutes or until thickened. Beans can be made the day before and kept in the fridge. Make sure to reheat before using. 7. To assemble, preheat the broiler to medium/high and arrange the nachos on a large plate, top with the chorizo bean mixture, olives and a handful of grated mozzarella. Place under the broiler until the mozzarella has melted. 8. Serve with queso fresco, the reserved cilantro leaves and crumbled feta, and the Jalapeño Yogurt and Avocado and Coriander Smash on the side.

EDITORS’ PA I R I N G SUGGESTION

Asian lagers like Sapporo or Asahi are excellent with these shrimp, or make a Dark ‘n’ Stormy with dark rum and ginger beer.

Avocado and Cilantro Smash 1. In a frying pan, dry roast 1 tablespoon coriander seeds until fragrant and allow to cool. 2. In a food processor place ¾ of the seeds, 1 garlic clove, 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 large bunch cilantro and blitz to a coarse paste. 3. Peel and stone/pit 3 small avocados or 2 large. Roughly chop on a chopping board, add half the juice of 1–2 limes (depending on sharpness), a drizzle of olive oil and sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste , and keep mashing with the knife to make a chunky, smashed mixture. 4. Transfer to a serving bowl and swirl the paste through. Finish with the remaining oil, salt and pepper, lime juice and coriander seeds. Jalapeño Yogurt In a bowl, swirl ½ cup Greek yogurt with 1 ounce chopped pickled jalapeños, 1 tablespoon olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Cook’s Note: If smoked chipotle paste is not available, you can use ancho paste or other chili paste. You can use a couple drops of liquid smoke to add smoke flavor to the paste or use, to taste, bottled chili sauce for a different flavor but some heat.

GRIDDLED SHRIMP AND BABY LEEK SKEWERS WITH TAMARI LIME GLAZE

Griddled Shrimp and Baby Leek Skewers with Tamari Lime Glaze MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Sweet, sour and sticky shrimp skewers make a tasty and easy appetizer. 12 shrimp, cleaned and deveined 4 baby leeks or scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces 3½ tablespoons tamari 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, grated 2 limes, 1 halved and 1 juiced 1 fennel bulb, sliced in quarters lengthwise 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. Place the shrimp, leeks or scallions, tamari, ginger and the juice from 1 lime into a bowl and allow to marinate overnight (or for a minimum of 30 minutes). 2. Thread 2 shrimp and leeks or scallions alternately on skewers. 3. Heat the griddle and cook shrimp for approximately 3 minutes on each side, basting with the tamari, ginger and lime glaze from the bowl. 4. Arrange on a platter. Griddle the halved lime or serve fresh on the side of the platter. 5. Brush the fennel slices with the olive oil and griddle, turning once, until tender (approximately 2 minutes on each side). 6. Add fennel to the platter and serve.

E D IT O R S ’ PA I R I N G S U G G E S T I O N

Serve these triangles with a light, chilled white wine like Vinho Verde, Sauvignon Blanc, or any bottle from Greece.

SPINACH TRIANGLES

Spinach Triangles MAKES 9

An all-time family favorite of mine. I always have a batch of these in the freezer and they can be eaten—as they do in Greece—for breakfast, as a snack or at any time of the day. 2 teaspoons olive oil 3½ ounces baby spinach, trimmed and chopped ¾ cup crumbled feta ½ bunch of dill, finely chopped ½ bunch of parsley, finely chopped ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 9 sheets phyllo pastry 1⅛ stick butter, melted 1 tablespoon nigella seeds (see Editor’s Note) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over a medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook for 4 to 5 minutes or until wilted. Transfer to a colander and let cool for 10 minutes, then roughly chop and squeeze out excess water. 3. Place the spinach in a large bowl and stir in the feta and herbs. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 4. Place a pastry sheet on a flat surface. Brush with butter. Top with another pastry sheet, brush with butter, top with a third pastry sheet. Cut into 3 long strips. Cover the remaining pastry with a damp kitchen towel. 5. Place 1 tablespoon of the spinach mixture in one corner/end of the pastry strip. Fold over diagonally to form a triangle. Continue folding, retaining the triangle shape. Place on baking sheet. 6. Repeat with the remaining 2 strips, then repeat with the rest of the pastry, butter and spinach mixture. Brush with the remaining butter and scatter over seeds. 7. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden and crisp. Editor’s Note: As a substitute for the nigella seeds, you could use other seeds such as cumin, celery, caraway, sesame, fennel or poppy.

Beer and Cheese Pairing

This is a really chilled way to get together with friends and share wonderful craft beers with savory cheeses. CHEDDAR AND ENGLISH PALE ALE Farmhouse Cheddar and an English pale ale is a classic combination. English-style pale ales tend to be maltier and less bitter than American-style pale ales, with a medium body and coloring that ranges from deep gold to copper. This malty character brings an almost sweet, bready flavor that goes perfectly with rich, salty Cheddar. The mild bitterness from the hops also complements the nutty, earthiness of the cheese. Farmhouse Cheddars come in giant wheels so the cheesemonger will cut you a wedge. Most tend to be pale to golden, but some can be orange. The texture may be a bit drier compared to vacuum-packed Cheddar, and you may spot a blue vein or two in sections of the wheel, but this is normal for traditional Cheddars and what you will want. BLUE CHEESE AND STOUT Blue and a stout are another great duo. Many of the principles that make Stilton and port a great combination hold true for pairing blue cheese and stout. Stouts are deep brown to black, with a heavy body and smooth feel. Many have the aroma and taste of chocolate or coffee due to the roasting of the malt but some are brewed with these ingredients to intensify the flavors. The smooth body of a stout complements the rich creaminess of blue cheese. At the same time, the deeply roasted malt creates the chocolate and fruity sweetness of a stout—the same flavors that can go unnoticed in an earthy blue cheese. Look for cheese that is buttery, creamy or crumbly with subtle blue vein lacing. These cheeses have both sweet and nutty characteristics along with salty and earthy flavors that pair nicely with a stout. GOAT CHEESE AND SAISON Try pairing soft goat’s cheese with saison-style beer. Saisons were traditionally brewed by Belgian farmers during the winter, stored through the spring and consumed throughout the summer. They tend to be on the drier side, with a light fruitiness and sweet yeastiness balanced by a mild bitter herbal quality. The fruity quality of the beer’s yeast complements the tang of goat’s cheese, while the light malt and body of the beer balance out the creaminess of the cheese. Both the beer and the cheese will be light, working together to bring out the subtle flavors and textures in each. Choose a log or wheel of soft cheese, with or without ash, looking for something that is more soft and crumbly rather than gooey at the center.

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E D IT O R S ’ PA I R I N G S U G G E S T I O N

Malty beers like bocks and Oktoberfests are great pairings, same with full-bodied white wine like Chardonnay or white Rioja.

SWEET POTATO AND ROASTED GARLIC HUMMUS 44 real food winter 2021

Sweet Potato and Roasted Garlic Hummus MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS AS A SIDE

Hummus is always a crowd pleaser and this version has a sweet earthiness with the roasted garlic and sweet potato. If pushed for time, you could make the roasted sweet potato and swirl it through good-quality store-bought hummus. 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into cubes 2 garlic cloves, skin on and bruised 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 (14 ounce) can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed juice of 1 to 1½ lemons 2½ tablespoons tahini paste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper a pinch of hot red pepper flakes and a pinch of dukkah (recipe right), to finish 1. Heat the oven to 325°F. 2. Place the sweet potato, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and cumin seeds on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. 3. Bake in the preheated oven for 40 to 50 minutes, then add the chickpeas and bake for a further 10 to 20 minutes. 4. Remove from the oven, take out a handful of crisped sweet potatoes and chickpeas and set aside. 5. Whizz the rest of the sweet potato and chickpeas with the remaining olive oil, lemon juice, tahini and salt and pepper in a blender until smooth—loosen with a little water if you like. If you don’t have a blender, mash with a fork or masher until smooth. 6. Finish with the reserved sweet potato and chickpeas, pepper flakes and dukkah.

RECIPES, BEER AND CHEESE PAIRING, AND PHOTOS FROM “SHARING FOOD WITH FRIENDS: CASUAL DINING IDEAS AND INSPIRING RECIPES FOR PLATTERS, BOARDS AND SMALL BITES” BY KATHY KORDALIS © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOWIE KAY.

Dukkah MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A twist on the Egyptian classic. Perfect with bread or fresh vegetables.

¾ ¾ 2 2 4 1 1 3 1

cup hazelnuts, skins removed cup almonds, skins removed teaspoons fennel seeds teaspoons cumin seeds tablespoons coriander seeds teaspoon sea salt teaspoon pink peppercorns tablespoons sesame seeds tablespoon nigella seeds

1. Heat a frying pan. 2. Add the nuts and lightly toast, then set aside. Add the fennel, cumin and coriander seeds to the pan and gently toast until aromatic. 3. Once the seeds are golden, put them in a food processor with the sea salt and pink peppercorns and blitz very lightly. The mixture should be coarse. 4. Lightly toast the sesame and nigella seeds (or substitute; see Spinach Triangles’ Editor’s Note) and stir through the mixture along with the reserved toasted nuts and toasted ground seeds. 5. The dukkah can be stored in a sterilized airtight container or jar for up to 6 weeks. n

nutrition (p e r s e r v i n g) CHORIZO AND THREE-BEAN SMOKY NACHO PLATTER WITH AVOCADO AND CILANTRO SMASH AND JALAPEÑO YOGURT C A L O R I E S : 6 2 0 , F A T: 3 0 G ( S A T: 7 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 60 MG, SODIUM: 1510 MG, CARB: 64G, FIBER: 17G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 26G GRIDDLED SHRIMP AND BABY LEEK SKEWERS WITH TAMARI LIME GLAZE C A L O R I E S : 1 1 0 , FAT: 5 G ( S AT: . 5 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 20 MG, SODIUM: 690 MG, CARB: 14G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 5G SPINACH TRIANGLES C A L O R I E S : 2 0 0 , F A T: 1 6 G ( S A T: 9 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 35 MG, SODIUM: 210 MG, CARB: 11G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 4G SWEET POTATO AND ROASTED GARLIC HUMMUS C A L O R I E S : 5 5 0 , FAT: 4 4 G ( S AT: 4 . 5 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 720 MG, CARB: 33G, FIBER: 12G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 15G

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LEMON SNOWFLAKES (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 50)

Sweet Celebration Make the season bright with new cookie recipes to add to your repertoire RECIPES BY LIZ FRANKLIN

t’s hard to imagine the holidays without cookies. Whether you’re a baking master looking to pad the recipe folder, a novice without a clue where to start or somewhere in between, these recipes from “The Cookie Jar” by Liz Franklin will suit your needs and ensure that friends, family and Santa Claus won’t be able to keep their hands off of them. The Coconut Fingers will be a hit with kids and adults alike. The Lemon Snowflakes are a delicious treat—and decorating them can be a fun family activity. The Pepparkakor provide a unique but enticing mix of sweet and spicy flavors, and the Chocolate and Hazelnut Brunslis provide a dairy-free and gluten-free option so everyone has something delicious to indulge in this holiday season. —sam johnson

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Pepparkakor Editor’s Note: Muscovado sugar is an unrefined or partially refined cane sugar with a strong molasses flavor and high moisture content (also known as Barbados sugar, molasses sugar, kandasari or khand). If it is not available, you can substitute with unrefined brown sugars such as jaggery, panela and Sucanat or standard dark brown sugar.

PEPPARKAKOR

48 real food winter 2021

Pepparkakor MAKES ABOUT 20

These lovely spiced cookies are popular in Scandinavian countries at Christmas time and can be cut into any Christmassy shape you prefer and decorated to look really special. … They’re also good to hang on the Christmas tree; just make sure you poke holes in the tops before baking. 5 tablespoons salted butter ½ cup dark muscovado sugar (see Editor’s Note left) 1 tablespoon thick gutsy honey 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon mixed spice/apple pie spice Pinch of salt 2 tablespoons milk For the Decoration 2½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 egg white, lightly beaten 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Put the butter, sugar and honey into a saucepan and heat gently until the butter is melted and the sugar has dissolved. Leave to cool a little. 3. Put the flour, baking soda, spices and salt into a large mixing bowl. Pour over the melted butter mixture and add the milk. Bring everything together to form a smooth dough. 4. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out into a large rectangle with a thickness of about ⅛ inch. Cut out cookies using star-shaped cookie cutters or the cutters of your choice. Bring the trimmed dough together and roll out again to cut as many cookies out of the dough as possible. Arrange the cookies on the prepared baking sheets, leaving a little space for spreading between each one. 5. Bake in the preheated oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until firm. Leave to cool on baking sheets for 5 minutes or so, before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. 6. In the meantime, put the confectioners’ sugar into a bowl and beat in the egg white, until you have a thick, smooth icing. Spoon the mixture into a piping/pastry bag fitted with a plain writing nozzle/tip and decorate the biscuits as you wish! 7. Leave to set, store between layers of baking parchment in an airtight container or cookie jar and eat within 3 days.

LEMON SNOWFLAKES

Coconut Fingers MAKES ABOUT 25

These are easy to make and always seem to be very popular with children at parties. 3½ tablespoons salted butter, softened 2 eggs, beaten ⅔ cup granulated sugar 1¼ cups shredded coconut Pinch of salt ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking soda 1½ ounces dark chocolate, melted 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Beat the butter, eggs and sugar together in a large mixing bowl until smooth. Add the coconut, salt, flour and baking soda, and stir to combine. 3. Spoon the mixture into a piping/ pastry bag fitted with a large nozzle/

tip (see Editor’s Note) and pipe finger shapes directly onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving a little space for spreading between each one. 4. Bake in the preheated oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden and firm. 5. Leave to cool on the baking sheets. Decorate with zigzags of melted chocolate across the length of the cookies and serve. Store in an airtight container or cookie jar and eat within 3 days. Editor’s Note: If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can use a plastic food storage bag. Cut off one corner of the bag and squeeze the dough out through the hole.

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Chocolate and Hazelnut Brunslis MAKES ABOUT 30

“There is something magical about cookie baking. A simple dough goes in the oven and only minutes later you have irresistible cookies that fill the kitchen with blissful aroma.”

nutrition (p e r co o k i e ) PEPPARKAKOR C A L O R I E S : 1 5 0 , FAT: 3 G ( S AT: 2 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 65 MG, C A RB: 2 9G , FIBER: 0 G , SUG A R: 19G , PROTEIN: 1G CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT BRUNSLIS C A L O R I E S : 9 0 , FAT: 4 . 5 G (S AT: 1 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 5 MG, SODIUM: 10MG, CARB: 11G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 9G, PROTEIN: 1G COCONUT FINGERS C A LO R I E S : 7 0 , FAT: 4 G (S AT: 2 . 5 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 20 MG, SODIUM: 55 MG, CARB: 9G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 6G, PROTEIN: <1G LEMON SNOWFLAKES C A L O R I E S : 2 2 0 , FAT: 9 G (S AT: 6 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 25 MG, SODIUM: 75 MG, C A RB: 3 4 G , FIBER: 0G , SUG A R: 19G , PROTEIN: 2G

RECIPES AND IMAGES FROM “THE COOKIE JAR: OVER 90 SCRUMPTIOUS RECIPES FOR HOME-BAKED TREATS FROM CHOC CHIP COOKIES AND SNICKERDOODLES TO GINGERNUTS AND SHORTBREAD” BY LIZ FRANKLIN © 2015, 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATE WHITAKER © RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.

50 real food winter 2021

These. Cookies. Are. Just. Delicious. And they have no butter or flour in them, so anyone on a dairy-free or gluten-free diet can enjoy them without worry. I think they could possibly be calorie-free, if eaten standing up, too. It’s only my theory and I can’t be trusted much on such matters, but they’re cracking good cookies methinks. 3½ ounces dark chocolate (70 percent cocoa is best) ⅔ cup ground almonds 1⅓ cups ground hazelnuts Pinch of salt 1 cup turbinado sugar 1 egg, beaten 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Set aside to cool a little. 3. Mix the ground almonds and ground hazelnuts together in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and sugar. Mix in the cooled chocolate and egg. Bring the mixture

together to form a soft dough. 4. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out into a large rectangle with a thickness of about ⅛ inch. Stamp out shapes using your favorite cookie cutter. Bring the trimmed dough together and roll out again to cut as many cookies out of the dough as possible. 5. Arrange the cookies on the prepared baking sheets and bake in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes or so, until firm. 6. Leave on the baking sheets for 10 minutes or so, to cool, before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container or cookie jar and eat within 5 days.

Lemon Snowflakes MAKES ABOUT 20 | PHOTO ON PAGE 46

These lovely lemony cookies are perfect at Christmas time, and the snowflake shape gives them such a pretty, elegant look. I like to decorate them in a mixture of ways—some I cover completely with icing, and others, I trace the skeleton of the shape using a writing tube and piping/pastry bag. However you choose to decorate them, they’re sure to be a hit. And if you want to make them at times other than in winter, then just use a different cookie cutter! 2 1 ⅔ 2

cups all-purpose flour cup cornstarch cup granulated sugar grated zest of 1 large lemon sticks salted butter, softened

For the Royal Icing 1 egg white freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon 2 cups confectioners’ sugar 1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Put the dry ingredients and lemon zest into a large mixing bowl and stir well. Add the butter and use your hands to work the mixture into a smooth dough. 3. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out into a large rectangle about ⅛ inch thick. Cut out snowflakes using cookie cutters in various

sizes. Lay them on the prepared baking sheets, leaving a little space for spreading between each one. Bring the trimmed dough together and roll out again to cut as many cookies out of the dough as possible. Arrange on the baking sheets with the other cookies. 4. Bake in the preheated oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden and firm. 5. Leave to cool slightly on the baking sheets, and then transfer to a wire rack until completely cold. 6. For the royal icing: Lightly whip the egg white in a large mixing bowl and beat in the lemon juice and confectioners’ sugar. Transfer the mixture to a piping/pastry bag fitted with a writing tip and decorate the cookies as desired. 7. Leave to set, store between layers of baking parchment in an airtight container or cookie jar and eat within 3 days. n

CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT BRUNSLIS

All Together Now Jamie Oliver’s new book is an ode to the simple pleasure of gathering for a meal BY MARY SUBIALKA

52 real food winter 2021

Like many people during the pandemic lockdown last year, Jamie Oliver spent a lot of time at home cooking.

PORTRAITS PAUL STUART DAHLIA ADOBE STOCK / PRENTISS40

But while much of the world was Googling banana bread recipes and culturing sourdough starters for the first time, this globally recognized chef was developing recipes and writing his latest—and 24th overall—cookbook. During his 20-year television and publishing career he has sold over 47 million books and reached an estimated global TV audience of 67 million in his efforts to inspire people to enjoy cooking fresh, delicious food from scratch. Being forced to slow down a little from his busy schedule afforded an opportunity to focus on his family, what he finds important in life, and inspired the topic for his new book, “Together: Memorable Meals Made Easy,” which has its U.S. release in November. “‘Together’ feels more poignant in 2021 than ever before,” Oliver writes in the book’s introduction. “What we’ve been through, collectively, is very unusual, and I think a lot of us have realized that perhaps we took some of life’s simple pleasures for granted. Being together is precious. … And the joyful, amazing thing about food is that it can be anything you

What excites you about your new book “Together” and what would you like readers to learn/take away from it? I mean, the word Together just conjures up so much feeling now, doesn’t it? It’s what we’ve all missed and longed for, to be with our family, friends and community again after all the events over the past year. My new book is a real celebration of great food that you can share with your loved ones. But it’s about more than food—it’s about making memories. I see my job here to make it as easy as possible for you to get ahead, plan and cook up extraordinary food, in such a way that you can enjoy maximum time with your guests. For me, I think the most important

want it to be. It can nourish, sustain, help to heal, be fast or convenient, comforting, fun, surprising, or an adventure. But maybe, in its simplest form, it works as an excuse to bring the people you love together.” Oliver was born in the village of Clavering in Essex, England, and started helping out with the cooking at his parents’ pub when he was only 8 years old. Later, he was spotted by a television production company after appearing in a documentary about the restaurant where he was a young sous-chef. This led to the 1999 debut of his BBC show “The Naked Chef,” and his cookbook of the same name, which staked his reputation for preparing food in a simple and natural (“naked”) way. The show ran three seasons and his energetic presentation and enthusiasm for the ease of cooking healthy food at home shot him to stardom. He’s since launched transatlantic efforts to reduce childhood obesity and improve school lunches, as well as founded restaurants in 21 countries. Oliver is now back living in Essex—this time in a 16th-century 70-acre estate—with his wife Jools (Juliette) and their daughters Poppy, 19; Daisy, 18; Petal, 12; and sons Buddy, 11; and River, 5. His new book is the inspiration for a new TV series of the same name now airing in the U.K. He shared his thoughts on cooking and his new book with Real Food via email from his home in Essex. Check out his recipe for Chicken, Sausage and Bacon Puff Pie with English Mustard, Leeks and Watercress Sauce on page 55.

message is that food can be a fantastic excuse to just get all your favorite people around the table, together. And that entertaining or cooking for others doesn’t have to be stressful. Each chapter of the book is a meal, and I’ve really interrogated the recipes to work out what you can do ahead, so you’re hopefully just finessing here and there, whacking stuff in the oven or focusing on the finishing touches, once you’re with your mates.

way—the kids and the chapters! I love the brunch chapter, so I put that first in the book—there’s something so satisfying about getting together in the morning and having a laidback meal. I love the taco party, a riot of flavor and color, and the curry night is really good, too. Then there are meals with epic centerpieces or knockout desserts that I also really love. You’re just going to have to buy the book and have a read.

Do you have a favorite recipe? And your next question is going to be, ‘which is your favorite child?’ That’s how it feels, you asking me to choose! They’re all so different and unique in their own

What foods did you cook during quarantine? Did the time change your approach to food or cooking? I think being stuck at home, which a lot of people have been, has made us question

winter 2021 real food 53

what’s really important. I know for a lot of people, myself included, slowing down a bit has been a good thing. It’s encouraged us to embrace the little things in life that bring us pleasure, and I know food has brought a lot of people great joy. Whether that’s cooking for the first time, learning a new skill (sourdough craze, I’m looking at you!) or simply finding ways to mix up your everyday repertoire. It’s been a great reminder that sitting around the table to eat together is a very special thing. I don’t think you can go far wrong with a roast chicken, and there’s so much you can do with them, so many different ways you can go on the flavor front. Also, the oven does all the hard work, so that always helps. I’ve put a last-minute style feast in the book actually that’s Italian inspired and a really great principle to follow. For starters, you jazz up a load of those shopbought antipasti, creating an epic spread, then I’ve done a really simple yet elegant pasta for the main, using one of my favorite shortcuts—cutting up fresh lasagna sheets to mimic fresh pasta. It’s such a good timesaver. A nice cocktail or two, and you’re onto a winner. How has your approach to food and developing recipes evolved over the years? My actual writing style in this book is quite unique. I’ve structured the recipes

At a time when ordering food at the click of a button is so easy, there’s something really very special about caring enough to spend time and effort cooking for those you love.

54 real food winter 2021

into three categories—‘get ahead,’ ‘on the day’ and ‘to serve’—making it really clear exactly how to approach each recipe. I’m also really excited about the photography. I worked with three of my favorite photographers and we’ve been much more indulgent on the amount of pictures that have made it into the book, which means it’s a really good one to flick through with a cuppa and your feet up. I’ve done a photo inspiration spread for every meal, giving you ideas for how to set the table and serve up, as well as step-by-step pictures where relevant, and just some good old beauty shots of amazing ingredients. The family pop up a few times, too, which is always fun. I try to weave tips, tricks and hacks into all my recipes, so make sure you read the recipe through before you start cooking so you know where you’re going—I think that always helps you get in the right mindset regardless of what you’re cooking. Every chapter is a meal, because I often get asked what stuff goes together well, so I wanted to give you really solid ideas for how to create a whole meal. I’ve got 18 really wonderful meals for you, that I’m very proud of, that mean a lot to me, and that I’ve enjoyed with my own friends and family. And a little bonus chapter on cocktails, because we all deserve a little treat, right? You cooked as a child at your parents’ pub, the Cricketers. Do you still make any of the dishes today? What might you say to 8-year-old Jamie? It’s funny, since I do so much cooking with my own kids now, in many ways I am talking to 8-year-old Jamie all the time. Buddy is such an asset in the kitchen and he’s been getting amongst it since he was really little. His knife skills are getting really good now. He’s always happy to help out, and to be honest, all the kids have had their moments. Poppy and Daisy are out doing their own thing a lot now but when they were younger they’d always be picking herbs and helping with jobs here and there—Petal’s the same. And River, well if there’s music playing and he can dance while he helps you, he’s there! Me and Jools celebrated 20 years of marriage last summer, and we were planning on a big old knees-up*, so I hope we’ll be able to do that at some point and get

all the old crew out of the woodwork. I’m really just excited about having all the family back over—there’s quite a lot of us with my mum and dad, Jools’ mum and her fella, and all the siblings and their kids. A proper family party, that’s what we need. Hugging, cuddling, laughing and, ultimately, just all being in the same space.

Chicken, Sausage and Bacon Puff Pie with English Mustard, Leeks and Watercress Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 slices of smoked bacon 2 chicken thighs (3½ ounces each), skin off, bone out 2 pork sausages 2 leeks 2 small potatoes (3½ ounces each) 2 heaping teaspoons English mustard 2 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups chicken broth 2 cups reduced-fat (2%) milk 3¼ ounces watercress 11 ounces pre-rolled puff pastry 1 large egg

PUFF PIE DAVID LOFTUS

GET AHEAD You can do this on the day, if you prefer. Slice the bacon and place in a large shallow casserole pan on a medium heat. Chop the chicken and sausages into 1¼-inch chunks, and add to the pan. Cook until lightly golden, stirring regularly, while you trim and wash the leeks, peel the potatoes, chop it all into 1¼-inch chunks, then stir in with a good splash of water. Cook for 10 minutes, or until the leeks have softened, stirring occasionally, scraping up any sticky bits, and adding an extra splash of water, if needed. Stir in the mustard and flour, followed by the broth, then the milk. Bring to a boil, simmer for 15 minutes on a low heat, stirring regularly, then season to perfection, tasting and tweaking. Carefully pour everything through a colander to separate the filling from the sauce. Pour the sauce into a blender, add the watercress and blitz until smooth. Spoon the filling into an 8-inch pie dish with 7 tablespoons of sauce. Let everything cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

What advice do you have for people this holiday season? Cooking is an expression of love. So many cultures around the world believe that and it’s true. Investing your time to prepare and dish up incredible food, cooked from scratch, really means something to people. I can’t wait to see how everyone

responds to the book and which meals really resonate with people and what they will be putting on their holiday tables. n

*Knees-up” is Brit-speak for a lively party. Interview questions and answers edited for clarity

TO SERVE Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush the rim of the pie dish with olive oil. Cut the pastry into ¾-inch strips, using a crinkly pasta cutter if you’ve got one, then arrange over the dish—I like a messy lattice. Eggwash all the pastry, then bake the pie for 45 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is piping hot. Gently heat up the watercress sauce to serve on the side. VEGGIE LOVE Editor’s note: Follow these steps to make this vegetarian. Peel 1 pound of root veg of your choice, chop into ¾ –1¼-inch chunks and cook for 20 minutes with the leeks, potatoes, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the leaves from ½ a bunch of thyme (⅓ ounce). Use veg broth with the milk, top up with ½ cup of sauce on assembly, then finish in the same way. nutrition

PER SERVING: CALORIES: 699, FAT: 35G (SAT: 14G), SODIUM: 1.8G, CARB: 60G, FIBER: 4G, SUGARS: 9G, PROTEIN: 36G

and length.

winter 2021 real food 55

pairings

Vino Rosso These Italian grapes make the perfect red wine for the holiday season BY MARY SUBIALK A

aking your way through a selection of Italian wines can be as tricky as navigating the canals of Venice. With more than 350 native and international grape varieties used and a labeling system that might only list the place of origin, finding something different to try beyond the familiar Chianti is certainly a learning process. So here are a few Italian red wines or “vini rossi” to add to your repertoire. They’ll make delicious partners at your holiday dinner table whether you’re serving beef, pork roast or a hearty baked pasta dish. BARBERA: This dark-skinned grape grown mostly in Piedmont produces lighter wines with lower tannins and high acidity that have a black cherry or ripe currant flavor with a hint of smokiness. With its naturally high acidity and dominant red fruit flavors, Barbera pairs well with pasta such as lasagna and baked shells. It’s also the best of the bunch here to serve with a turkey dinner. Look for wines labeled with the grape name, especially Barbera d’Alba. MONTEPULCIANO: Grown throughout the country with concentrated plantings in central and southern Italy, this grape (pronounced “mon-ta-pull-chi-anno”) produces rich wines with blackberry fruit flavors and spicy, peppery qualities. When a wine is named after the grape and location, look for “d,” which means “from.” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, for example, is Montepulciano grapes from Abruzzo, which is a dark rustic wine with full body, black pepper spice and high tannin. (It can be confused with the regionally named Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is actually Sangiovese from the city of Montepulciano in Tuscany.) Also look for the regionally named Rosso Conero. NEBBIOLO: This grape is known for rich, full-bodied and “chewy” wines with age-worthy high tannins. It’s the predominant grape in the Piedmont area’s Barolo and Barbaresco, two of the country’s most powerful and highly regarded red wines. Barbaresco wines are usually lighter tasting and less tannic than Barolo. Less expensive Nebbiolo from the region is often called Langhe Rosso. SANGIOVESE: Pronounced san-joh-VAY-zeh, this is one of Italy’s most popular grapes planted throughout the country. Wines have high acidity, moderate-to-high tannins and flavors of black cherry, earth and tobacco. It’s the dominant grape in Chianti, the glorious Brunello di Montalcino and its secondary wine Rosso di Montalcino, and in the wines from the town (not the grape, remember!) of Montepulciano: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montepulciano. A lighter version from the coastal area of Maremma is called Morellino di Scansano. n PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Real Food - Winter 2021

Articles inside

Jamie Oliver

Pairings

Bites

Easy Apps

Comfort and Joy

Ingredient

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Plant Power

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