Sonoma Discoveries Winter 2014 by Healdsburg Tribune Special Publications

this issue:

taste+

eats+

history+

celebrate+ fun+

Fresh Dungeness Crab

Local Ciders and Cheeses

Hole in the Head Exhibit

Tree Lightings, Parades, Chinese New Year

Breakfast with Santa, Cloverdale Citrus Fair

$4.95 VOLUME 18 | ISSUE 4 Winter 2014

sonoma

discoveries INSIDE:

Best Fireside Bars The Butchers Craft Escape:

Armstrong Woods in Winter

FOR THOSE WHO LIVE AND PLAY IN SONOMA COUNTY

Downtown Healdsburg: Cool wine tasting rooms

The wines of Sonoma-Cutrer express a partnership with nature, resulting in world class Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Discover why Sonoma-Cutrer has been America's Most Requested Chardonnay 22 out of 24 years.* Visit our beautiful estate located within the heart of the Russian River Valley and sample our artisan craftsmanship in every glass.

Tours and Tastings available: Thursday-Monday 10-4. 4401 Slusser Road · Windsor, California Appointments are recommended. Book online at www.sonoma-cutrer.com or call us at 707-237-3489 Please Share the Cutrer Responsibly.

*Wine & Spirits Magazine, 24th Annual Restaurant Poll April 2013

WINTER 2014

THE BUTCHER’S CRAFT

34 24 FEATURES

Healthy Land, Healthy Livestock

Escape: Redwoods, Ravens and Relaxation

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design build enjoy “Beautiful job! Impressive workmanship. It was a pleasure to work with all of you. The compliments keep coming in…” — Vic & Val, Santa Rosa

“Beyond our expectations...”

—Steve & Kathy, Sebastopol

Award-winning Design Professional Project Management

before F I N E

H O M E

B U I L D I N G

R E M O D E L I N G

S I N C E

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Furniture and Accessory Consignment Store

1 9 7 8

Tired, outdated home? Now is the perfect time to remodel. Call us. (707) 823-4899 www.leffconstruction.com

Attico

Lic 521133

(707) 861-3771 6791 Sebastopol Ave www.atticostore.com

DEPARTMENTS

12 14

IN EVERY ISSUE

Q&A: WINE CHAT with Kate MacMurray

10 A DAY WITH THE EPICUREAN CONNECTION Seasonal Ciders and Cheeses

12 THE TASTING ROOM EXPERIENCE Exploring Downtown Healdsburg

20 OUT TO EAT Eat, Drink and Be Cozy

WINTER 2014

EDITOR’S LETTER

DISCOVERIES PICKS 5: GET CRACKIN’

WINE DISCOVERIES: SPARKLERS

ART & ABOUT

EVENT CALENDAR

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stablished in 1923 as the French American Bakery

serving Healdsburg and the

surrounding area, Costeaux worldclass breads and baked goods are internationally acclaimed and sought after by locals and visitors alike. The bakery café has earned

numerous awards and is open daily serving breakfast and lunch.

FULL SERVICE BAKERY CAFÉ • CAKES • PASTRIES • CATERING • WHOLESALE costeaux.com • 707-433-1913 • 417 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg

APPROVAL

Client: Costeaux French Bakery Run date: 8-28-14 Visit our sustainably farmed vineyard Ad title/slug: 1/3 color to enjoy Sonoma County’s most Returned approval due by: 7-9-14 Scheduled to run in: Discoveries Mag Fall 2014 breathtaking views, or stop by our Please check this proof carefully for errors and omisdowntown Healdsburg Tasting Room sions. Your signature below constitutes acceptance of full responsibility for allpoint errors, omissions and legal and to taste our Gold Medal & 90+ ethical compliance in this document. Sonoma West EstatePublishers wines.will not accept liability for errors overlooked

this stage of proofing. Any changes from your previHealdsburg at Tasting ously approvedRoom copy will be charged extra according to both time and materials. agrees to pay appro34 North St. Open Daily 12 - Advertiser 7 priate rates and production costs as specified in the curEstate Tasting Room Picnic Area rent rate&card. All conditions of the latest rate card apply. 9100 Skaggs Springs Rd. Geyserville OK AS IS Open Saturday & Sunday 10 - 4 Your signature and date Monday & Friday by Appointment OK with corrections - no further proof needed www.GFVineyard.com | 707-433-2371 Your signature and date

2ND PROOF REQUIRED - I authorize a $10 charge Your signature and date

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APPROVAL

Client: Tallulah Ad title/slug: 1/6

Run date: 5-29-14

Returned approval due by: ASAP 5-2-14 Scheduled to run in: Discoveries Summer 2014 Please check this proof carefully for errors and omissions. Your signature below constitutes acceptance of full responsibility for all errors, omissions and legal and ethical compliance in this document. Sonoma West Publishers will not accept liability for errors overlooked at this stage of proofing. Any changes from your previously approved copy will be charged extra according to both time and materials. Advertiser agrees to pay appropriate rates and production costs as specified in the current rate card. All conditions of the latest rate card apply. OK AS IS Your signature and date

OK with corrections - no further proof needed Your signature and date

2ND PROOF REQUIRED - I authorize a $10 charge Your signature and date

Winter 2014 Editor Patricia M. Roth Design & Production Brent A. Miller Photography Editor Sarah Bradbury Web Coordinator Eileen Mateo Publisher Rollie Atkinson Associate Publisher Sarah Bradbury Special P rojects Director Cherie Kelsay Sales Manager Paula Wise Advertising Sales Steve Pedersen Neena Hatchett Carol Rands Beth Henry Graphic Designers Jim Schaefer Deneé Rebottaro Cover Photo Gary Ottonello

Sonoma Discoveries is published quarterly, four times a year. The entire contents of Sonoma Discoveries is copyrighted by Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. Sonoma Discoveries is published at 230 Center St., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Application for Periodicals Mailing Privileges is pending at Healdsburg, CA 95448. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sonoma Discoveries, P.O. Box 518, Healdsburg, CA 95447-0518. The annual subscription rate for Sonoma Discoveries is $20 per year (four issues). Sonoma Discoveries advertising and editorial offices: 9025 Old Redwood Hwy., Suite E, Healdsburg CA 95448 707-838-9211 ©Copyright 2014 Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Sonoma Discoveries is an advertising supplement to the Nov. 27, 2014 issue of Sonoma West Times & News, The Healdsburg Tibune, The Windsor Times and Cloverdale Reveille. Printed by Barlow Printing, Cotati, CA

Cover: Rustic wine storage at Portalupi Wine Co. by Gary Ottonello

SONOMA WEST T

I M E S

E W S

EDITOR’S LETTER Winter is settling in and as seasons change and one year rolls into the next, we’re reminded of how quickly time passes and the importance of creating lasting experiences with families and friends, from personal to professional to community connections. So grab a buddy and choose your experience—be it in a restaurant or a wine tasting room, deep in the peaceful woods, at a magical celebration, or simply at home relaxing, reading or creating a meal with ingredients you’ve read about here. Abby Bard sleuthed out the best restaurants and bars with fireplaces for her story, “Eat, Drink and Be Cozy.” She settled on three fabulous places, chosen for their ambiance and delicious drinks and food, in Healdsburg, Sebastopol and Bodega Bay. If you’re planning to spend a leisurely day in downtown Healdsburg, read Mary-Colleen Tinney’s suggestions for exploring the town’s shops, restaurants and wine tasting rooms. Dozens are within walking distance, and we’ve featured of a few of them to get you started. After working in the film industry, Kate MacMurray returned home to Sonoma County when the Gallo Family asked her to join their marketing team. She is one of the most genuine brand ambassadors you’ll ever meet. In Wine Chat, Kate reminisces about her dad Fred MacMurray and about growing up on their Healdsburg cattle ranch where today E & J Gallo grows premium winegrapes for the MacMurray Estate wines. Be sure to visit sonomadiscoveries.com to see a video interview with Kate, an engaging story teller, shot at the Russian River Valley ranch. This video kicks off a series of original videos shot exclusively for sonomadiscoveries.com, so keep an eye on our website. An escape to Armstrong Woods this winter takes you into another world. “The woods seem even quieter when they’re wet and colors are enhanced,” writes Ray Holley, as he maps out trails— and what you’ll discover on them—in his story “Redwoods, Ravens and Relaxation.” David Abbott began researching innovative meat producers last summer and found two small family-owned farming and ranching operations that stand out—one for how they are managing and restoring the land, and another for being the first in the county to receive Animal Welfare Approved recognition for their cattle, a label with the most rigorous standards for farm animal welfare in the U.S. Two local butchers are represented in Barry Dugan’s article. It’s a trade that’s been getting a lot of press as of late, but locals have known the value of taking their wild game, fair-bought or backyard-raised animals to the butcher for years. Food safety, quality and shop specialties are among the benefits of knowing your local butcher. Sheana Davis shares two of her favorite Sonoma County culinary travels, creating seasonal cheese and cider pairings you can create at home. Topping it off, we’ve got tips about where to find fresh Dungeness crab, sparklers for the holidays and an action-packed calendar. Kudos to the hard-working team that creates this magazine, and to Sonoma West Publishers, locally-owned, community-minded and cranking out the weekly news and quarterly discoveries for “those who live and play in Sonoma County.” From all of us, we wish you a light-filled, warm winter and healthy New Year! Patricia M. Roth, Editor patti@sonomadiscoveries.com

CONTRIBUTORS David Abbott is editor of Sonoma West Times & News and has been a member of the staff of Sonoma West Publishers since 2007. He enjoys writing about beer, bicycles, running and hiking. Abby Bard is a weaver who sells her handwoven clothing at local galleries and from her studio in Sebastopol. She is a member of Sonoma County Art Trails. She has a passion for growing food in an urban landscape. Joe Barkoff is a photojournalism major at Santa Rosa Junior College, where he has worked as the photo editor and sports editor of its newspaper, The Oak Leaf. He is also interning as a photographer and contributing writer for Sonoma West Times & News. Sarah Bradbury is the associate publisher of Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. and has had the opportunity to photograph the county and its people for Sonoma Discoveries for 17 years. Sheana Davis is a cheesemaker, culinary educator and owner of The Epicurean Connection. She has supported the artisan and farmstead cheese movement for more than 20 years and sponsors the annual Sonoma valley Cheese Conference. sheanadavis.com Barry Dugan is a freelance writer, editor and public outreach consultant in the field of water reuse and conservation. He was formerly the editor of Sonoma West Times & News, The Healdsburg Tribune and The Windsor Times. Ray Holley is a writer, editor, and photographer who is lucky enough to live in Healdsburg, the land of good bread, good coffee, and good people. He has no fear of the serial comma. There’s more about him at rayholley.com. Patricia M. Roth is the editor of Sonoma Discoveries. She was previously senior editor at Wine Business Monthly magazine and has been a reporter and editor at various publications in California, from the San Joaquin Valley to the San Francisco Bay Area. Gary Ottonello is a photographer born and raised in Sonoma County concentrating in portraiture and action sports photography, specializing in off-camera lighting. He comes from a video background and enjoys playing the drums and skateboarding. garyomedia.com. Mary-Colleen Tinney is a Sonoma County native with more than 13 years of experience as a wine journalist. After nearly nine years at Wine Business Monthly magazine, she spent a year exploring and working in the wine regions of New Zealand. Since her return,she has worked in wine marketing and hospitality positions while continuing her wine journalism career on a freelance basis.

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DISCOVERIES PICKS 5: GET CRACKIN’! The sweetest season of the year has arrived—from the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean— and Dungeness crabs are now being pulled in by local fishing boats and making their way to our favorite seafood haunts, crab feeds and markets. Although you can no longer buy fresh Dungeness right off the boats, you can still get them live out at Bodega Bay. Here are five ways to experience and enjoy the Dungeness crab season at the Sonoma Coast and in our local communities.

+ sonoma discoveries

Bodega Bay Sport Fishing Center, 707-875-3344, bodegabaysportfishing. com; Miss Anita Fishing Charters, 707-875-3474, missanitafishingcharters.com; Reel-Lentless, reelentlessfishing. com. Crab fishermen leave local harbors at first light—and you can join them and come home with a catch to call your own. Rick Powers, owner of the New Sea Angler and one of the captains operating out of Bodega Bay, said the crab excursions are wonderful recreational experiences. “They jump on my boat and absolutely have a ball. You get sustenance for your table, and you never know what you’re going to see out on the ocean—grey whales, killer whales, humpback whales, Pacific Whitesided dolphin, porpoise.” Trips include fishing for a variety of ocean fish in season.

BY BOAT

FRESHLY COOKED OR LIVE

No sea legs but love the salt air? Drive to the coast and pick up live or freshly cooked crabs to take home. The Tides Wharf Restaurant’s fish market carries both cooked and live Dungeness; 707-875-3554. At the Spud Point Crab Co., crabs come straight off the Anello family’s boat and into their large cooker for your fresh-cooked feast; 1860 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay, 707-8759472, spudpointcrab.com. The Fishetarian Fish Market offers cooked crabs to go from their fun, sustainably-minded market/café; 599 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, 707875-9092, fishetarian.org. Can’t get to the coast? Local markets sell tons of whole crabs over the course of the season—and most will crack and clean them for you, too. FOR A CAUSE

Savor cracked crab and support important community causes. The list of service clubs and fundraising events featuring crab feeds is a long one. Events start in December with the Kiwanis Crab and Pasta Feed in Cloverdale (Dec. 6) and the Rotary Club of Healdsburg’s Annual Crab Feast

and Silent Auction (Dec. 13) and continue through February with the Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s annual Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Festival (Feb. 7) and the Rotary Club of Sebastopol’s annual crab fest on Valentine’s Day. Check with your favorite service clubs, fire departments and granges for special events or go to sonomadiscoveries.com for more crab feeds. IN THE BARREL ROOM

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, 10701 Westside Rd., Healdsburg, 866-277-9463, garyfarrellwinery.com. Dine by candlelight in Gary Farrell Winery’s gorgeous barrel room situated inside the cellar during one of the winery’s most popular events, The Gary Farrell Annual Crab Dinner, held on Feb. 28 at 6 p.m. Guests are treated to a multiple-course, plated dinner paired with the winery’s top singlevineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Last year the crab selection featured crab cakes, crab salad and steamed Dungeness with lemon and drawn butter. What makes this event different? Winemaker Theresa Heredia leads a discussion about each wine during the annual event. Seating is limited so please don’t hesitate to make your plans early.

5 QUICK CRAB FIX Spud Point Crab Company, 1860 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay, 707875-9472, spudpointcrab.com. The simply prepared and piledhigh fresh crab sandwich at Spud Point Crab Co., right across from Spud Point Marina, has become a favorite among locals. “It’s a quarter pound of crabmeat with a little bit of our homemade sauce on a toasted roll. They’re fantastic,” said Carol Anello, who runs the café. How does Carol know the sandwiches are so addicting? “I watch our customers lick the paper that the sandwiches are on,” she said. “People want pure crab— no added extra lettuce or tomatoes. They can get that anywhere.” Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

WINE DISCOVERIES SPARKLERS

Breathless Wines

Blanc de Noirs Sonoma County $30, 12.5% alcohol Made from 100 percent Sonoma County Pinot Noir, the Breathless Blanc de Noirs is crafted by winemaker Penny GaddCoster in the traditional method used in the Champagne region of France, called Méthode Champenoise. This peach-colored sparkler was the 2013 Sweepstakes winner at the Sonoma County Harvest Festival. It’s rich, creamy and flavorful, with notes of fresh bread and hazelnut blending with orange citrus and cherry flavors. Breathless was created by sisters Rebecca Faust, Sharon Cohn and Cynthia Faust in honor of their mother, whose enthusiasm for life inspired them to life lives filled with breathless moments. Breathless Wines is also committed to supporting the community and makes contributions every year to worthy causes like the Sutter Pacific Women’s Health Center, the Alpha-1 Foundation and Sonoma County Vintners and Growers Alliance. Windsor Vineyards

Blanc de Blanc Sonoma County $32, 12.5% alcohol The 2014 Sonoma County Harvest Fair Sweepstakes winner is made in the Méthode Champenoise style, primarily from Chardonnay grapes. In fact, that’s how Blanc de Blanc gets its name, as it means “white of white” in French. This crisp, golden-toned bubbly has flavors of stone fruits and pear, with hints of minerality that give freshness and bounce to the finish. Windsor Vineyards is also

We are entering the season of celebrations, and it’s time to raise a glass to everyone and everything we hold dear to our hearts. The holidays are a time of joyful company and chilly evenings by the fire. We’ve chosen some sparkling wines to set the season off right. They are at once light, effervescent and celebratory yet robust and refreshing enough to match the rich, flavorful meals celebrated with friends and family.

known for its tradition of personalized labels, one that goes back to founder Rodney Strong’s habit of reserving wines for customers by writing their names on the bottle. If you order online at windsorvineyards.com, you can add a free custom label of your own, adding a fun personal touch to your holiday celebrations J Vineyards and Winery

3 J Brut Rosé Russian River Valley $38, 12.5% alcohol This gorgeously salmon-colored bubbly is crafted from the winery’s estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Its rich hue is derived from the 66 percent Pinot Noir used for the blend—winemakers leave the freshlypressed juice on the skins for a while, as the skins are how wines get their color. The balance of the blend is 33 percent Chardonnay and 1 percent Pinot Meunier, a red grape commonly used in sparkling winemaking. The wine’s flavors are bursting with berry notes, fresh strawberry and raspberry in particular, supported by elegant and creamy honey and citrus tones on the palate. It’s lovely on its own but pairs especially well with creamy appetizers, seafood or fruity desserts. Gloria Ferrer

4 Sonoma Brut Sonoma County $22, 12.5% alcohol Though this Brut is dominated by Pinot Noir (which makes up up about 90 percent of the wine), it has a warm golden color with just a hint of copper,

suggesting the juice spent a very limited amount of time on the skins. The complex and fruity flavors of Pinot Noir shine through in this rich and robust Brut. Big, round bubbles deliver flavors of honey-toasted almond mixed with with sweet pear and ripe citrus fruit. This is a blend of 20 different base wines (the estate has 40 different selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay growing in their vineyards!), which adds a bit of complexity to the palate Korbel Champagne Cellars

Korbel Natural 5 Russian River Valley $14, 12% alcohol In making sparkling wine in the Méthode Champenoise way, wines undergo a secondary fermentation and aging in the bottle, resulting in a very dry wine with bracing acidity. Winemakers then add a small bit of sugar to the bubbly, a process called dosage, which balances the wine and determines how sweet the resulting wine will be. For the Korbel Natural, the dosage is just 0.75 percent, leaving a light, clean and crisp wine that allows the best flavors of the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to shine through. Notes of green apple and lime dance on the palate with a delicate finish. It’s no wonder why this wine has been served at Presidential Inaugurations since 1981.

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local+

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with Kate MacMurray by Patricia M. Roth

What’s it like living amongst the vineyards at MacMurray Estate?

I love living amongst the vineyards. The MacMurray Estate has a different personality than when my family was raising cattle here because you really get a sense of the seasons in the vineyard and the seasons around you. In the fall, after harvest, the leaves turn a beautiful burnished color of gold and almost magenta. It is as if they are giving you everything they’ve got before they go to sleep for the wintertime. Then there is a dormant period before they start pruning, bud break, and finally, the wonderful build up to and anticipation of the harvest. Seasonally, you get a better sense of time and life going by in the vineyards. What does your job entail?

Under the broad banner of sales and marketing, my job involves some travel, talking about our wines, hosting wine dinners and lunches, and taking our wines to retail stores and restaurants so they can taste through MacMurray Estate’s portfolio of premium wines. Sometimes it revolves around a food and wine event, sometimes it’s straight sales, and sometimes it’s interviews.

Photo by E. & J. Gallo Winery

SONOMA LOCAL

Kate MacMurray, daughter of actors Fred MacMurray and June Haver, lives on the historic MacMurray Estate in the heart of the Russian River Valley. It was there she learned how to ride a horse, tend to chickens, drive a stick shift on a vintage Army jeep, take care of calves (her dad raised Scottish black Angus cattle) and explore the beautiful hiking and riding trails and hills surrounding their home. In 1996, the MacMurray Estate was sold to the Gallo Family, and in 2001, they asked Kate to work in sales and marketing on behalf of MacMurray Estate Vineyards. “Kate MacMurray has been instrumental in bringing the legacy of MacMurray Ranch and the wines of MacMurray Estate Vineyards to life,” said Matt Gallo, Vice President of Coastal Operations and Winemaking at E. & J. Gallo Winery. “She embodies our passion for great wine and our deep roots in Sonoma County.”

Q&A: Wine Chat

What varieties of grapes are grown on MacMurray Estate?

Pinot Noir is the primary grape planted here, but we have a luscious Pinot Gris as well. The first vineyards were planted in 1996, 1997 and 1998, and so these vineyards have been flourishing for quite awhile now. They are offering tremendous fruit, great structure and complexity—and because of where we are situated in the Russian River Valley, with the cooler influence in the mornings and evenings and nice heat in the afternoon, the fruit is very intense and bright. Tell us about the MacMurray Estate wines.

The Pinot Noir has a velvety quality and expressive fruit notes of

dark plum, cherry and blackberry. Our Pinot Gris has hints of apple and subtle tropical notes. They are stunning. Do you have any tips for entertaining during the holidays?

Delicious food, great wine and lovely music with the ones nearest and dearest to me always seems to bring great cheer. What have you found to be the best food and wine matches with MacMurray Estate vineyard-designate wines?

Because the wines are so balanced, MacMurray Estate wines will pair nicely with most any dish, but one of my personal favorites is a cup of chili, fireside with a glass of MacMurray Russian River Pinot

Noir. The meatiness of the chili really shows off the fruit. You seem to have a real love affair with Sonoma County. Why do you love it here?

I love Sonoma County for many reasons but I guess the most important reason is because I was raised here. I had a very unique and lovely childhood here. I had terrific parents, and they loved it here as well. They left me the legacy of love for Sonoma County, the land, my neighbors and for my community. I really have a sense of belonging, and that’s hard to come by sometimes. No matter where I go or where I travel, one foot is always anchored in Sonoma County. You once said, “Any little thing that is good about me, came from this place.” Can you elaborate?

My dad believed that land defines character. I recall on starry, beautiful summer nights, we’d actually get up on the roof of the ranch house with sleeping bags and look at all of the shooting stars. Dad would always say, “You have this beautiful place as the backdrop for your life, and you must be grateful and take advantage of that… always be respectful, and continue to honor the land in whatever way you can.” I hope I am doing that now through MacMurray Estate Vineyards. The ranch is 1,500 acres and about 450 acres are planted to vine, which is perfect, really, because that allows the vineyards to be surrounded by acre upon acre of natural habitat. The birds that fly over, the animals that crawl or walk through the land and inform the soil, and the trees that offer some sediment during the wintertime, which flows into the valley floor— everything around the vineyards adds a specialness to the quality and the complexity of the fruit we grow here.

•

When is the estate open to the public?

The Gallo Family hosts the Taste of Sonoma once a year during Labor Day weekend. This is a great opportunity for guests to enjoy the MacMurray Estate and sip and savor the very best of Sonoma County’s wines and cuisine. Over 60 local chefs show off their best pairings with more than 200 wineries pouring their best wines. It is really a once in a lifetime experience. SD To see a video interview with Kate MacMurray, please go to sonomadiscoveries.com.

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taste+

A Day with The Epicurean Connection Seasonal Cheeses and Ciders by Sheana Davis SONOMA LOCAL

Sheana Davis, cheesemaker, culinary educator and owner of The Epicurean Connection in Sonoma, has supported the artisan and farmstead cheese movement for more than 20 years.

LEARN MORE Weirauch Farm & Creamery weirauchfarm.com Tilted Shed Ciderworks tiltedshed.com Devoto Orchards Cider devotocider.com

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ne of my favorite Sonoma County culinary travels is to Weirauch Farm and Creamery, established by Joel and Carleen Weirauch (pronounced “whyrock”) in East Petaluma. This is one of our county treasures as the Weirauchs have created some of the finest cheeses in the country, and we are honored they are an active part of our community. The farm hosts open-house farm days, tours, lunches, cheese tastings and activities for all ages that include milking sheep and spinning wool. All of the Weirauch Farm and Creamery cheeses are made by hand in small batches by the husband and wife team. Their certified organic sheep and cow milk cheeses are available direct at farmer’s markets and through a few specialty retailers in the San Francisco Bay Area. The artisan cow cheeses, which include milk from off-farm sources, are available year-round. The farmstead sheep cheeses, made from milk collected on the same farm where the cheese is produced, are available seasonally. They also produce sheep-milk soap seasonally, October through December. The Weirauch Farm’s flock of sheep and all of their products are certified through the Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) program. Be sure to join their Farm Club Membership for updates on farm tours, special events and new cheese releases. You can also learn more about their sustainable farming practices, from rotational pasture management to water re-use from the creamery for irrigation. During my visit, I picked up a selection of cheeses and headed over to get a few cases of locally produced cider from both Tilted Shed Ciderworks and Devoto Orchards and Gardens. Husband-wife team Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli established Tilted Shed Ciderworks in 2011 and named it after a “tilted shed” located on their Sebastopol property. This family-owned orchard features more than 24 varieties of Sonoma Countygrown apples.

Ellen and Scott work together to create unique ciders that are fresh, pure, hand-pressed and naturally fermented. It’s a privilege to experience these ciders as Ellen and Scott have poured their life into their business, and the taste truly reflects their proficiency. As you take in the flavors, derived from their blending of varieties, you can tell this is a cider produced with passion. Be sure to admire the beauty in the labels—woodcut prints created by Scott and a work of art in themselves. Stop by their tasting room in Windsor for a visit, enjoy a flight of ciders, and be sure to bring a few bottles home to savor during the holidays and over time. Devoto Orchards is a 20-acre diversified family farm that was founded in 1976 by Susan and Stan Devoto. It’s interesting that Devoto is the largest cidery in California that uses exclusively Californiagrown certified organic apples. For their ciders, they grow nearly 100 varieties of heirloom and cider apples for their farmstead blends. Located in the Sebastopol hills, the orchard is in one of the most beautiful spots within Sonoma County—between the Green Valley, Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast growing appellations, which are famous for producing world-class Pinot Noir winegrapes as well as heirloom apples. The Devoto family’s commitment to integrity and stewardship of apple trees holds true in every bottle of Devoto Orchards Cider. All of their ciders are made from estate-grown apples. Both Tilted Shed Ciderworks and Devoto Orchards Cider approach production as an art, as they only ferment ciders when apples are at the peak of their season and fresh off the tree. These small-batch producers offer an elegant, refreshing beverage that is extremely versatile when paired with food.

Below you will find suggestions for cider and cheese pairings, an apple compote plus cider fondue, too. Cheers to the continued success of Sonoma County ciders. Devoto Orchards 1976 Cider Served with Weirauch Farm and Creamery Peau de Peche, a raw milk cheese that is aged 3 months. It is semi-soft with a wash rind and a complex sweet essence. Served with Gravenstein Apple Compote Devoto Orchards Save the Gravenstein cider Served with Weirauch Farm and Creamery Tomme Fraiche, a pasteurized cow milk cheese that is aged for 2 weeks. It is semi-soft and elegant with a tangy finish. Tilted Shed Ciderworks January Barbecue Smoked Cider Paired with Weirauch Farm and Creamery Mi Ewe, a cow and sheep milk blended cheese, aged three months, with rich and robust earthy flavors. Tilted Shed Ciderworks Graviva! Paired with Weirauch Farm and Creamery Saint Rose, a sheep milk cheese, aged 3-6 months, filled with sweet, nutty and floral flavors.

Apple Compote 1 cup fresh apples, grated 1/2 cup apple cider 1/2 cup apple juice 2 tablespoons brown sugar

Simmer ingredients in a heavy-bottom pot, over low heat for 30 minutes, allowing flavors to blend and caramelize. Enjoy with a fine cheese and cider, or over a bowl of ice cream!

Apple Cider Fondue Yields 1-1/2 cups fondue 1/2 cup apple cider 1 cup grated Weirauch Farm and Creamery Tomme Fraiche, grated 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme 1/4 teaspoon each kosher salt and white pepper to taste

In a small saucepan over low flame, bring cider to a boil. In a small bowl, combine, cheese, cornstarch, thyme, salt and pepper. Sprinkle cheese mixture into cider and whisk until smooth. Serve warm with fresh baguettes, apple slices and walnuts. Enjoy with a glass of Sonoma County cider. SD

Place Matters. Join us on the Terrace for a taste of our Reserve and Single Vineyard Cabernet from the Alexander Valley. Open Daily

11455 Old Redwood Hwy, Healdsburg, CA | 800.678.4763 | RodneyStrong.com

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The Tasting Room Experience Exploring Downtown Healdsburg by Mary-Colleen Tinney

F Visitors will find many ways to entertain themselves in downtown Healdsburg, including shopping on the plaza and visiting art galleries, such as Erickson Fine Art Gallery (above), located in a historical building with three stories of light-filled rooms.

or longtime residents of Sonoma County, it has been quite remarkable to witness the transformation of Healdsburgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s downtown from the somewhat sleepy center of a sparsely-populated farm town to the internationally renown heart of the Sonoma County wine and culinary industries. Though the changes have been many over the years, Healdsburg is still, at heart, a small town that caters to its local community. As one of the few Sonoma County cities centered around a central plaza, Healdsburg offers a wide variety of shops, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. Winter is an ideal time for locals to come visit the plaza, as there are fewer out-of-town visitors, parking is more abundant, and shopkeepers and tasting room staff have a bit more time to share. There are now dozens of tasting rooms within a half-mile or so of the plaza, many of them offering extended hours well into the evening. No longer are wine-interested guests rushing to the next tasting room before closing; instead, they can spend a full day in town idly exploring all there is to offer.

Photos by Sarah Bradbury

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Day-trippers discover the Healdsburg Plaza (above) and the shops on Plaza Street that surround it.

Visitors can opt for a breakfast at one of the half-dozen or so plazaarea diners or cafes, like Costeaux French Bakery, the Downtown Bakery & Creamery or Flaky Cream Do-Nuts & Coffee, followed by perusing one of the many art galleries featuring local and outlying artists. On Wednesdays through Sundays, the Healdsburg Museum and Historical Society, located in the historic Healdsburg Carnegie Library on Matheson Street, are free, and the exhibits are well worth a look. Between tasting rooms, visitors can explore gift stores, clothing and specialty shops or one of the two bookstores, Copperfield’s or Levin & Company. Need a middle-of-the-day pick-me up? Try coffee at the Flying Goat, a slice of pie at Noble Folk or a cupcake at sister bakery Moustache, where you can occasionally watch the bakers frosting the next batch of treats. Healdsburgians-for-the-day can grab lunch at any number of restaurants or specialty food stores. If the weather complies, perhaps even grab plaza picnic supplies at Big John’s Market, the independent grocery store with 20 years of history serving the community, and spend an hour or so sitting on the lawns or one of the many park benches. You never know what you might see—perhaps a parrot being fed gourmet ice cream, something I witnessed on my last visit. Beyond the summer crush of tourists and behind the new hotels and high-end restaurants, Healdsburg is still filled with locals who want to preserve the idyllic small town and create a strong community. We’ve chosen a few wine destinations, each bringing their own unique take on what it means to be a part of this fantastic town.

winter 2014 +

SAPPHIRE HILL 55 Front St., Healdsburg, CA. 707-431-1888, sapphirehill.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Sapphire Hill, one of the longest tenants at Old Roma Station

Old Roma Station Healdsburg’s Old Roma Station, at the intersection of Front and Hudson streets, has a long wine industry tradition. Built in the late 1800s, its origins were as a winemaking and production facility for a company (owned, coincidentally, by Beaulieu Vineyard founder Georges de Latour) that primarily focused on manufacturing cream of tartar from grapes. It was known at that time as the FrenchAmerican Wine Company, but changed hands several times before being sold to Roma Wine Company, once America’s largest wine producer. Though Roma Wine ceased business decades ago, the Old Roma Station name pays homage to their Healdsburg history. Now home to nearly a dozen wineries, Old Roma Station is a fantastic stop on a Healdsburg wine tour. While each of the tasting rooms on the site offer fun and interesting wines, we’ve chosen to feature a couple to whet your appetite. Sapphire Hill Along with Holdredge Cellars, which occupies the red barn on the site, Sapphire Hill is one of the longest-serving tenants at Old Roma Station. The tasting room is small but welcoming, with brick-red walls, a stone-and-wood counter and comfortable leather couch for those who want to relax while sipping. Established in 1989, Sapphire Hill is currently owned by Lisa and Chris Mulcahy, who purchased the winery in 2010. The couple have added their own stamp on the winery, bringing in veteran winemaker Tami Collins and redesigning the label for a more upscale and elegant look (with a bit of whimsy—ask about the hidden rooster). Nearly all of Sapphire Hills’ wines are blends of some degree. Sometimes that’s a blend of different vineyards of a single variety, such as the Zinfandel and Pinot Noir offerings. Other times, they

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Photos by Gary Ottonello

create a proprietary blend of different varieties. Their Cinque Gemma Italian Blend combines Sangiovese, Nero D’Avola, Primitivo, Barbera and Syrah into an inviting, earthy-yet-fruity wine created specifically to stand up to lasagna and other rich pasta dishes. On weekends, the Mulcahys host a five-course food-and-wine pairing in their barrel room on-site for $35; advanced reservations are required. The winery also offers a daily small-plates tasting at $25 for two. If you just want to pop in for a tasting, for a $10 refundable-with-purchase fee you’ll get a sampling of the five or so wines being poured that day.

Hudson Street Wineries A collective tasting room of five wineries, Hudson Street Wineries allows visitors to explore wines from a variety of different winemakers and winemaking styles. On offer are wines from Bluenose Wines, Kelley & Young, Owl Ridge, Shippey Vineyards and Willowbrook. There’s a $5 tasting fee (refunded with purchase) that gives visitors access to any number of the 15 wines or so being poured. The tasting room offers a peek into the history of Old Roma Station, with photographs of various winemaking operations dotting the walls. These are mixed with pieces from local artists, as well as a dozen or so vintage rock concert posters, part of the personal collection of Shippey Vineyards. Hudson Street Wineries also offers television, which is especially helpful for sports-minded visitors. Willowbrook has two Pinot Noirs that offer a glimpse into how geography influences the taste of the wine: the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is elegant and refined with notes of red plum and black cherry, while the Sonoma Mountain version is full, spicy and rich with hints of black pepper and hazelnut. Bluenose offers a wellpriced homage to their Canadian roots with their “eh?” Zinfandel, a fruit-forward and long-finishing take on the variety.

HUDSON STREET WINERIES 428 Hudson St., Healdsburg, CA. 707-433-2364. hudsonstreetwineries.com. Open Thursday through Monday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. winter 2014 +

BANSHEE WINES 325 Center St., Healdsburg, CA. 707-395-0915, bansheewines. com. Open daily; Sunday through Wednedsay, 11 p.m. to 7 p.m., Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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There are several varieties poured here that can be somewhat difficult to find as stand-alone wines, making Hudson Street an especially good choice for those who are looking for something new or different to try. Owl Ridge has a Petit Verdot, a dark, velvety and complex Bordeaux varietal that is beginning to find a foothold outside of their usual use in blends. Kelley & Young offers an Alexander Valley Malbec, which thrives in the warmth of the region, as well as an excellent dry Malbec-based Rosé that features lush strawberry and raspberry notes. Shippey Vineyards Flaming J Petit Sirah is a dark, heavy and big wine with hints of toast and blueberry.

Banshee Wines Though Banshee Wines was only established about five years ago, and the tasting room opened roughly a year ago, the winery is quickly becoming one of the most celebrated in Healdsburg. The winery was founded by three friends, Noah Dorrance, Baron Ziegler and Steve Graf, who sought to create iconic, balanced and elegant wines at affordable prices. Rather than a tasting bar, the small, but bright, space is designed around relaxing tasting spaces. Favoring a mid-century modern style mixed with bohemian comfort, Eames-like molded plywood and Danish modern, brushed-leather egg chairs sit atop South American woven rugs. A large central wooden table, which looks as if it could once have been in a high school science lab, is surrounded by industrial metal-andleather stools. Along one of the back walls is a collection of vintage and found objects. These are all for sale, making Banshee one of the few, if not the only, tasting room and vintage boutique in the region. In fact, everything here is purportedly for sale. The feeling here is of relaxed, restaurantlike service. Guests are invited to choose an open seat and servers bring out your selected wines at the pace you’re drinking. There are two tasting options, a $15 House Flight and a $30 Reserve Flight, which are waived with a bottle purchase from that flight. You can also buy wines by the glass. Hungry guests can opt for one of the Small Bites plates created for Banshee by the nearby Barndiva restaurant. On my visit, these bites included chicken liver mousse with apricot marmalade, pork rillette with red onion apple relish, white bean puree with bacon jam and a chickpea hummus with sundried tomato pesto, with prices

ranging from $9 to $15. There’s a large selection of wines, from Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to single-vineyard Pinot Noir. I was particularly fond of the Marine Layer Pinot Noir, which featured notes of strawberry, candied walnut and cranberry, with a bit of earthiness and spice.

Valdez Family Winery Just a short distance south of the Healdsburg plaza, at the corner of Healdsburg Avenue and Mill Street, is the home of the tasting room for Valdez Family Winery. The space, open from Thursday through Sunday, is large, understated and humble, with a long tasting bar and a blackboard announcing the day’s wine selections. There are only a few small indications—some news stories along one wall, a small map of Mexico behind the tasting bar, a black-and-white photo of a burro outside a small home—of the remarkable story of Ulises Valdez, the man behind the Valdez Family Winery. Valdez, one of eight children, left school after the third grade in order to begin working in the fields near his village in Michoacán, Mexico. By 12, he had moved to Mexico City, where he sought more work and higher-paying wages. He used some of his funds, 500 pesos a month, to hire a tutor to teach him to read and write, fulfilling a promise to his mother. By 16, he came to the United States, finding work in Sonoma County’s vineyards by claiming he was 18 years old. His dream was to earn enough to create a better life for his family, and perhaps to open a grocery store near his village. Inquisitive and hard-working, he quickly took to tending grapevines. Fortuitously, after a few years here, Valdez was able to obtain legal residency after President Ronald Reagan granted amnesty to certain immigrant populations in 1986. Though he was still in his teens, he seized the chance to take responsibility for his future, cofounding a vineyard management company with a partner in 1987. In 2003, he bought out the partner and now runs the company as Valdez & Sons Vineyard Management. He began making his own wines in 2004, using grapes from land he bought or leased over the years, and a custom crush winemaking facility. By 2010, he’d opened his own winery in Cloverdale, the same year that he and his wines were honored by being served at a White House state dinner in honor of the visiting Mexican president.

Friendly advice and global selection

Wine Emporium • Wine Shop • Tasting Bar Wine Club • Gallery • Gift Service

Mon-Tue Knock for Service Wed-Sat 12-6 125 North Main Street, Downtown Sebastopol order online: the-wine-emporium.com

Toll Free 877-349-2285 winter 2014 +

PORTALUPI WINE CO. 107 North St., Healdsburg, CA. 707-395-0960, www.portalupiwine.com. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

+ sonoma discoveries

The tasting room was opened in 2013. Ulises Valdez’s daughter is usually found behind the counter, or sometimes Ulises and his wife, sharing their story and their wines. The wines are sourced from his vineyards throughout Sonoma County. The Russian River-area Lancel Creek Pinot Noir, with its soft and supple edges and a black-fruit palate, is a particular standout. Valdez also offers a selection of Zinfandels, Chardonnay, Syrah and Petit Sirah. Another standout is the Pine Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a big, bold and heavy version of the variety with a nice undercurrent of smoked raspberry flavors. “I’m not the best, but I’m a happy person,” Valdez told us on our visit. “I only have my name. The way you build your name is important: it’s by being honest and fair.”

Portalupi Wine Co. The motto at Portalupi Wine Co., judging by their delightful tee shirts and irreverent posters, is “More wine, less everything else.” The everything else are the complexities and difficulties of life, which the Portalupi family believes can be cured with a bit of fine wine and a hearty meal with loved ones. Founded by Jane Portalupi and her husband, winemaker Tim Borges, the winery’s trademark is their Vaso di Marina line of table wines bottled in one-liter glass milk jugs. This is the only winery in the United States using the bottle, but the idea has origins going back nearly a century. Though the Portalupi tasting room is decidedly rustic modern—with roughly-finished cement walls, stacked wooden fruit crate counters and a wall of wooden pallets for wine shelving, pulled together by an incongruously bright and oversized violet couch—the wines themselves are inspired by the Portalupi family’s Italian roots. Vaso di Marina is named after Jane Portalupi’s Nonna, Marina, who bottled her wines for her local Piemonte village using empty milk jugs. Wine, she believed, was meant to be shared. There’s a Vaso di Marina red and a white wine version, both sourced from the North Coast. Though not overly complex, these are meant to be relaxed, table wines shared with family and friends around a meal. The white is floral with subtle notes of wooden spice, while the red is fruit-driven with hints of red plum and ripe blackberry. More intriguing on the palate are the winery’s selection of varietal wines. Portalupi produces just about 3,800 cases of these wines, focused on Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and the robust Italian variety Barbera. The Old Vine Zinfandel sourced from 108-year-old vines from the Dolinsek Ranch in the Russian River Valley is outstanding. With strong fruit flavors at the forefront, it is backed up with a mid-palate and finish of white pepper and winter spices. Old vines offer a complexity of flavor that might be reached only after a century of producing grapes. Out in front, by the way, sits a fully restored 1976 Vespa scooter. The Vespa was found several years ago, sadly neglected, on the Portalupi family’s Italian ranch. It was brought here and restored and now serves as an ambassador of sorts for the winery’s mix of old and new traditions rooted in their Italian heritage. SD

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eats+

T Out to Eat Eat, Drink and Be Cozy by Abby Bard HOTEL HEALDSBURG hotelhealdsburg.com

photos by Gary Ottonello

FRENCH GARDEN RESTAURANT frenchgardenrestaurant.com

BODEGA BAY LODGE bodegabaylodge.com

The Spirit Bar at Hotel Healdsburg; crudo of Hawaiian ahi at the Spirit Bar; and (right) the scene at the French Garden and Bistro.

+ sonoma discoveries

he glow of a fireplace, the elemental symbol of warmth and comfort, cheers us when the short, dark days of winter are upon us. When the rains thankfully turn the brown landscape back to green, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to come inside and gather around the inviting flames of the hearth. Our region offers a bounty of locales to savor delicious drinks and foods, but the experience becomes more special when gathering with friends around the fireplace. Each of these three restaurants has a unique style and flavorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; all three offer great food and warm hospitality.

Fireside Dining Luxury The Spirit Bar at Hotel Healdsburg offers a luxe version of fireside drinking and dining. Although the large room has high ceilings and opens into the reception area and other public spaces of the hotel, it manages to feel warm and cozy with plush upholstered curved couches and tufted easy chairs that face a large open fireplace, framed with burnished metal on all four sides. On a bed of round rocks, the flames emerge from metal rods that have the appearance of narrow torches, illuminating the golden brick-faceted interior walls of the fireplace. A heavy glass fire screen provides safety without obscuring the light of the fire; the large scale makes it a focal point for the entire room, otherwise lit with soft recessed lighting.

This room is easy on the eyes, with soft neutrals and rich textures on the furniture, cushy pillows and rounded edges—even the tables near the fireplace are rounded, molded of lightweight dark brown metal in the shape of drums or of slatted wood. Within the large open space, the curved couches, placed on a soft carpet with a cloudlike pattern, delineate a cozy circle and plenty of extra chairs can be drawn up for a larger group. Outside the circle are pedestal tables with sleek modern chairs; and beyond that, floor to ceiling windows look out onto the interior courtyard of the hotel. At one end of the bar, furnished with richly upholstered bar stools, is a lovely painting of clouds. Behind the bar, where mixologist “JJ” Johnson works his magic, narrow windows bring in light from the outside and illuminate the golden wood of the bar itself. The atmosphere of the room is dreamy. The service is superb. The beverage menu is extensive and global, with unique housecreated cocktails—like “The Bombshell” with Bluecoat Gin, elderflower and fresh lemon, and the “Chamomile Sour,” with American bourbon, lemon soda and chamomile cordial. There are classics with a twist, a full page of local wines by the glass, and another page of local and European beers. Sommelier Courtney Humiston has compiled a separate wine list—actually, a book of over 30 pages—including sparkling wines by the glass or bottle, a page of wines by the half bottle, three pages of Chardonnay, a page of Sauvignon Blanc, two

The Spirit Bar’s large open fireplace and open bar; seared ahi with bok choy.

pages of “interesting Sonoma wines” and five pages of Pinot Noir, plus a list of rare and library wines. Looking through these menus, I felt convinced that any wine, liquor or spirit one might desire is available. The food is exquisite—in flavor, in concept and in presentation. The Spirit Bar has its own menu with small bites and house-cured charcuterie; the dinner menu from the Dry Creek Kitchen is also available. Chef Dustin Valette creates the food for both menus, and he is a true artist. My companions and I shared an unforgettable meal, orchestrated by Valette and Restaurant Manager Georgio Paraponiaris, and served to us in front of the fireplace, where

the lovely colors and textures of the food, a veritable culinary kaleidoscope, were enhanced by the firelight. A colorful crudo of Hawaiian ahi with roasted strawberries, cucumbers, radishes and cashews, topped with an opal basil chip and served with a tangy, lime-scented strawberry gastrique, was followed by a stuffed pickled Cabernet leaf, filled with quinoa and feta cheese on a bed of swiss chard and local wild mushrooms, accented by a brilliant red pequillo pepper gastrique and crispy fried capers. We shared a summer squash pasta with sole; next, a crispy, seared pork belly on a bed of kale and kohlrabi slaw with a sweetly delicious emulsion of fermented black garlic; and the signature scallop en croute: a light and flaky crust over tender scallops in a rich sauce. Then, a stunning plate of seared ahi with bok choy accented with a creamy aioli; a venison roulade with a butternut squash puree with a toasted chestnut vinaigrette; a t-bone loin of lamb with sautéed rapini and a bright green spring garlic emulsion; and a green winter 2014 +

Friends gather around the open fireplace at the Bistro at the French Garden; marcona almonds with Pinot Noir at French Garden; (below) outdoor fire pit at Drake’s Lounge at Bodega Bay Lodge and the lounge’s soup of the day.

peppercorn flat iron steak with a crispy, golden, blue cheese “tater tot,” sweet golden mushrooms and onions. Magically, we had room for dessert. Our attentive and very knowledgeable server, Robbie Boring, described dessert chef Andrew Di Clementi as “like a kid at heart,” and this was evident in his desserts. A dish of malted root beer ice cream with a cocoa nib glace wafer served over a toasted marshmallow crème evoked a grown-up version of a s’more. More sophisticated in appearance, but still a childhood fantasy, was a perfectly rectangular peanut butter bar (layers of chocolate crunch bar cookie, chocolate fondant, peanut butter mousse, topped with chocolate glace and a bit of gold leaf), served with a milkless chocolate sorbet and caramel drizzle. The entire experience—food, drinks and ambiance—was unforgettable. During the holiday season, the Spirit Bar hosts their annual Holiday Afternoon Tea with sparkling cocktails, traditional savory tea sandwiches, sweet scones and biscuits and petit fours, beginning the weekend following Thanksgiving.

Warm and Welcoming, Bistro-Style The entrance to the Bistro at the French Garden Restaurant— resembling a European chateau with a columned portico—takes you through beautifully curved French doors from a carefully tended garden patio with flowering shrubs and a majestic old cypress tree into the warmly lit room. A massive wood bar, furnished with upholstered bar chairs, defines the bistro space; soft lighting from iron and glass wall sconces gives the creamy walls a golden glow. Intimate tables near the tall windows look out onto the terrace, and the floor-to-ceiling curved stone fireplace fills the entire corner

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opposite the bar. The raised hearth is draped with sheepskins so you can sit close to the flames. Co-owners Dan Smith and his wife Joan Marler have created an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. Although the Bistro is located on one of Sebastopol’s busiest thoroughfares, you’d never know it: inside it feels country cozy and welcoming on a chill winter day. When my friend Shelley and I arrived for weeknight Happy Hour, we seated ourselves on an inviting sofa facing the fireplace. There are two of them—oversized Victorian-style sofas with curved backs and rounded arms, upholstered in rich, soft, chocolate brown leather, reminiscent of the sofas in my grandmother’s living room long ago. Little sturdy wooden tables are at hand to hold your drinks. The servers are gracious and attentive but not at all obtrusive. The atmosphere feels right for an intimate tête-à-tête or a larger gathering of friends. The Happy Hour menu, available Wednesday through Friday from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m., features house wines, draft beers, a selection of cocktails and tapas, including crostini, oysters, and salty snacks like marinated olives, house-made fries with rosemary aioli, and the potentially addicting Marcona almonds garnished with fresh micro-greens from Dan’s organic farm down the road. They were the perfect match with the house red wine, a light and smooth Pinot Noir. The regular bistro menu is more extensive, with Prince Edward Island mussels, a charcuterie/cheese plate, French onion soup, fish tacos, “le burger,” chicken tenders and changing seasonal dishes; the dining room menu is also available in the bistro. On weekends, live music performances begin at 7 p.m.

Coastal Fireside Comfort Just before sunset one evening, I headed out to Drake’s Fireside

Lounge at the Bodega Bay Lodge with a couple of friends, Molly and Gary. Opened two years ago, this popular place is a welcome addition to coastal dining, a relaxed atmosphere with comfort food, Sonoma County wines and local beers by the glass, signature cocktails, a full bar and amazingly swift service. The lounge shares a kitchen with the Duck Club Restaurant, but offers a more casual atmosphere, like a neighborhood pub—there’s a TV high up in one corner, tuned to a game, with the sound turned off—but one with the most spectacular view to the west overlooking Bodega Bay. The lounge has two fireplaces (with a third one inside the Duck Club). A square stone fire pit outside on the terrace has comfortable wood settees and rocking chairs arranged around it, overlooking a lawn edged by pampas grass with the bay and Bodega Head in the distance. Inside, a traditional stone fireplace with a dark wood mantel is surrounded by dark wicker furniture upholstered in comfortable soft beige cushions and pillows, facing the fire. Wood pedestal tables with capacious wood and leather armchairs are placed a comfortable distance apart from each other on the wine-colored floral carpet. The tables have hurricane jars with candles and large windows overlook the bay. A small service bar is in one corner near the entrance to the kitchen. Chef Jeff Reilly prepares some very flavorful food. With rain falling outside, Molly and I decided hot soup was in order. Rita, our efficient and personable server, brought our steaming bowls out quickly from the kitchen, accompanied by house-made foccacia and Village Bakery seeded sourdough bread and butter. Molly had the New England-style Fog Chowder, a creamy broth full of clams, potatoes and corn, served in a ceramic bowl glazed a soft russet hue that set off the pale color of the soup. I chose the soup of the day, a rich, thick broth of roasted poblano peppers with Brentwood corn, smoked chicken morsels and crunchy housemade tortilla strips, lightly spicy and garnished with cilantro, served in a

bowl with a wide rim, a good place to park my bread and butter while I savored the flavorful tortilla soup. We followed our soup with a plate of delicately crunchy Dungeness crab cakes, garnished with tomato-ginger chutney and a roasted pepper aioli. The smells reminded Gary of his grandparents’ house—the fireplace, the spiciness of the soup and the big wooden beams. To honor that, he ordered an old fashioned cocktail, Seagram’s 7 & 7, from the full bar while Molly and I ordered wine from the small but tasty selection of local wines by the glass. There are local beers and signature cocktails, like a Chipotle Bloody Mary, the Captain Morgan in Sebastopol (spiced rum with Ratzlaff Ranch apple juice) and one named Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” in honor of the director who put Bodega Bay on the cinema lover’s map. Now Chef Jeff Riley is putting it on the dessert lover’s map as a place to get the best chocolate layer cake I’ve ever had (sorry, Mom). The recipe is from his mother, and it’s listed on the menu as Jeff’s Mom’s Chocolate Cake. The wedge of dense, moist deep chocolate cake, with the creamiest of cream cheese frostings, was perfection, served on a zigzag of caramel glaze with a couple of raspberries and garnished with a single purple orchid. All of the fireplaces mentioned above are fired with gas. More places to cozy up in front of the fireplace around the county: Lucas Wharf Restaurant and the Bluewater Bistro, both with views of Bodega Bay, Stormy’s in Bloomfield (a carnivore’s destination), Brava’s Bar de Tapas in Healdsburg, and up the coast near Fort Ross, the remote Timber Cove Lodge. At the Barlow in Sebastopol, there’s an outdoor fire pit where you can sit and warm yourself in the evening while you have a slice of Neapolitan pizza from Vignette, ice cream from Sub-Zero, a smoothie from The Nectary or an Ultra-Crepe. At the Jaded Toad in Windsor, you can gather around the big outdoor fire pits while enjoying barbecue, cider, beer or wine. We’ve been told “it’s like going to the beach in winter.” SD

Jeff’s Mom’s Chocolate Cake Courtesy of Bodega Bay Chef Executive Chef Jeff Reilly Ingredients: 3 oz. semisweet chocolate 12 oz. strong brewed coffee 3 cups sugar 2½ cups all-purpose flour (sifted) 1½ cups Valrhona unsweetened cocoa powder 2 tsp. baking soda ¾ tsp. baking powder 1¼ tsp. salt 3 eggs 6 oz. canola oil 12 oz. buttermilk ¾ tsp. vanilla

Steps: 1. Melt chocolate with coffee until smooth. 2. Mix sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt. 3. Beat eggs until lemon colored (about 3 minutes). Slowly add oil, buttermilk, vanilla and melted chocolate mixture to eggs, combining well. 4. Add dry ingredients until mixed well. 5. Line two 10-inch cake pans with parchment and spray well. 6. Bake at 290º for approximately 30 minutes until done. Yield: Two 10-inch pans to make one whole cake

Cream Cheese Frosting Ingredients: ¾ lb. butter 1¾ oz. vanilla 1 lb. confectioners sugar 3 lbs. cream cheese

Steps: 1. Whip butter and vanilla until smooth and soft. 2. Cream in the sugar until it is completely blended in and smooth. 3. Whip in cream cheese until light and fluffy. Yield: 4½ pounds (enough for one whole Jeff’s Mom’s Cakes with some left over) winter 2014 +

By David Abbott | Photography By Joe Barkoff

HEALTHY LAND, HEALTHY LIVESTOCK There is a Slow Meat movement ahoof in Sonoma County, and family-owned producers are raising livestock in ways that turn the corporate model on its head—basically slowing down production to a smaller, more localized scale and giving the animals more dignified, longer and healthier lives. Two independent producers—Green Goose Farm in Petaluma and J Brand Cattle Company in Healdsburg—are among those that have embraced this philosophy.

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winter 2014 +

Roy Smith (above) and Rebecca Black and their daughter Siena (next page) interact with animals on their property, while pigs dig in the soil on the small biodynamic farm in Petaluma.

Green Goose Farm: Farm animals contribute to rebuilding the land Rebecca Black and Roy Smith of Green Goose Farm are living a dream, albeit a very alternative lifestyle, on 10 acres in Sonoma County that is not only environmentally sustainable but is also providing solutions to global climate change while producing humanely raised pork for the local community. The couple, along with their daughters Siena, 10, and Lillian, 12—and two large dogs named Zorro and Moose—are working the small biodynamic farm on the outskirts of Petaluma. “We call it ‘Slow Meat,’” Black said. “But it’s really about restoring land and sequestering carbon.” The small family farm raises pastured, grass-fed, grass-finished heritage breeds of animals for direct sale while working to bring the land back to life after decades of neglect. Green Goose Farm was founded on a principle known as “the 2 percent solution,” a farming philosophy positing that “a 2 percent increase in soil carbon, produced by 2 percent of a nation’s population, for only 2 percent of a nation’s gross domestic product, can make all the difference in the world.” The difference it can make, according to Courtney White, founder of the non-profit Quivira Coalition, is to offset a large percentage of the CO2 being dumped into the atmosphere by industrial human activity. White’s nonprofit helps to build bridges between ranchers, conservationists, public land managers, scientists and others around the idea of land health. “We’re taking it from an urban intellectual perspective,” Smith said. “We have to end industrial farming practices because we’re already over the breach.” The urban intellectual perspective is the outgrowth of the work of people such as White and author Michael Pollan, who brought the dangers of large-scale corporate farming to the attention of the American people with the publication of “The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals” in 2006, where Pollan follows the production of food from farm to table.

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What he found was that industrial farming reliant upon pesticides and petroleum-based fertilizers is adding an unsustainable amount of carbon to the atmosphere and creating virtual deserts in some of the most fertile parts of the planet. At Green Goose, Smith and Black are working to reverse that paradigm, practicing organic regeneration, improving the health of the soil using purely organic farming methods. The 1920’s-era chicken farm sits on 10 acres that had been fallow for about 40 years when they bought it in 2012. Many of the buildings had been falling down for the past 10 to 20 years, and the property was overrun with thistles and Spanish oaks as well as a large stand of eucalyptus trees that had dropped a deep carpet of vegetation on the surrounding ground. One of the things that stands out on the farm is the lack of heavy equipment, aside from a Caterpillar Smith uses to cut swales in the side of the hill the property occupies. The real “machines” that make the place function though are the pigs themselves, Smith said. Smith manages the porcine machines by moving them from place to place with the use of movable electric fences. The pigs create firebreaks around the buildings on the property by clearing out vegetation, and they work vegetation and dung into the ground, which adds to the fertility of the land as well as providing a vehicle to sequester carbon. As they work the property, the pigs are allowed to live like pigs in idyllic circumstances. In addition to grazing the grasses on the property, their diets are supplemented by food Smith and Black glean from local food producers, including leftover fruit and vegetables from local farmers markets and byproducts from local cheese manufacturers. They are also creating fertile soil by working seeds and nutrients—healthy pig dung—into the soil. Green Goose also raises two species of sheep for sale, Dorpers and Blackbellies, that originated in Mediterranean climates and can survive well in the semi-arid local climate. There are also several types of fowl, including chickens, turkeys, geese, guinea fowl and heritage breeds of grouse that act to control parasites.

“It’s about effective management of the workforce and the workforce is the pigs. The pigs work the fields by eating the standing grass,” Smith said. “The chickens are not for production. When we first started working the property, we had hordes of ticks. The first year, we brought in a variety of birds and there are no ticks anymore.” Through the auspices of the pigs’ work, natural grasses have returned to the property where the land had been heavily farmed; they also create mulch and add microbes to the soil. According to Smith, one acre can hold 5,000 pounds of carbon; under natural conditions, it takes about 500 years to create one inch of soil. Due to the amount of vegetation on the site, they have been able to create about an inch a year, and they are also turning the land into a sponge, both to be drought-resistant and also to filter water that flows through the property into the watershed below. To do that, Smith is digging swales that follow the contours of the property and filling them with wood from the dilapidated buildings. Eventually, he will plant trees on the swales, which will filter runoff as well as “harvest” the fog. The

trees will also create a windbreak that will reduce evaporation. When the time comes for the animals to be processed, i.e. slaughtered, a mobile abattoir comes to the property and the selected animals are killed with a single shot to the head and taken to local processors to be prepped for the customers who purchased them when they were piglets. “By eating meat, you ensure their survival as a species,” Smith said. “Eighty percent of all farm animal species have been lost in the past 100 years. We’re in the middle of a mass extinction.” Though the work to raise heritage breed animals and restore the 10-acre property is very labor intensive, including time spent gleaning, to Smith and Black, it is very rewarding as well. “It’s hard, physical work, but we’re providing a real solution with just two people and two little girls,” Smith said.

J Brand Cattle Company: Grass-fed and Animal Welfare Approved “Most people have no concept of where their food comes from,” Steve Jacobs of J Brand Cattle Company said. “Nine of 10 cattle go to feed lots for finishing. We really

need to educate the public: a lot of grass-fed beef is finished on a feedlot with corn.” J Brand is based in Healdsburg, and Jacobs and his wife Marci are dedicated to giving cattle a happy, dignified life while adhering to strict principles for producing purely grass-fed beef. His animals are never taken to feedlots to be fattened up with grain and, in fact, never eat grain in their lives, which reduces health problems and helps Jacobs avoid the use of antibiotics common to large-scale corporate farming practices. Jacobs leases 14 properties throughout Sonoma, Napa and Marin counties, raising his Angus blacks and reds from St. Helena to Marin. He started raising cattle in 2000 with “six old farm cows” that his family used to control the grass on their Healdsburg property. He has slowly increased production and sells to several local businesses, including Willowside Meats in Santa Rosa and Big John’s in Healdsburg as well as Cal Mart in Calistoga. “Growth has to be slow and planned,” Jacobs said. “But to turn a profit, you have to grow.” J Brand is the first meat producer in

winter 2014 +

Gualala Arts Center’s

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Steve Jacobs of J Brand Cattle Company feeds alfalfa to his cattle, which he tracks from birth to slaughter and rotates from pasture to pasture.

Sonoma County to be Animal Welfare Approved (AWA). AWA is a Virginia-based organization founded in 2006 that audits its members to ensure that animals have been raised “to the highest animal welfare and environmental standards.” “It’s about food safety and quality of life for the animals,” Jacobs said. “The operation is audited every year at different times of the year for herd and health protocols and so that they know the animals have been humanely treated.” Jacobs tracks his cattle from birth to slaughter and carefully manages their lives by rotating them from pasture to pasture. He also allows his pastures to “rest” for at least three months each year to ensure the health of the land. “I have backup ranches for the sake of sustainability,” he said. “Too many animals in too small an area can ruin the land.” Another unique aspect of J Brand is that Jacobs lets his animals age to two years before they are processed. The advantages to that for the animals are that breeding females have more developed pelvises, which makes birthing easier. It also helps the steer’s body develop more, and there is more marbling on the meat. “People thought I was nuts,” he said. “That’s a year older than most conventional operations.” He also calves twice a year, in fall and spring, which is counter to standard practice, and he sequesters pregnant females in calving pastures to ensure the births are as smooth as possible. After they are born, the calves are tagged; when they get large enough and have remained healthy for a week or so, they are moved to secondary pastures to get fattened up. Jacobs has learned to recognize health problems and can handle minor health issues, such as dehydration or pneumonia in the calves. He carries electrolytes and Pepto-Bismol with him to treat calves that get diarrhea because they can dehydrate fast. He’s also aware of when he needs to bring in a veterinarian. “It’s very rewarding to save a calf in distress,” Jacobs said on an idyllic late summer day in September as he was feeding alfalfa hay to his animals on a large property west of Petaluma. Alfalfa is a legume, rather than a grain, and it is high in protein to help mothers that are producing milk. “It’s another one of the cost drivers. It may not be what’s best for

the pocketbook right now but in the long run it pays off,” Jacobs said. Since J Brand beef is USDA-certified, the animals must be trucked to a USDA-certified processing facility, but Jacobs keeps production as close to home as possible, which means a 12-minute drive to the newly re-opened Marin Sun Farms Slaughterhouse—formerly Rancho Veal Slaughterhouse—in Petaluma. The killing part can be tough for ranchers that have such personal relationships with their animals, but Black, Smith and Jacobs all see the process as a natural part of the lives of their animals. “No one wants a slaughterhouse, but they do want a steak,” Jacobs said. “I try to give the animal the best life possible before they go on to meet their maker. It’s a 24-hour a day, 365-day a year job.” SD winter 2014 +

THE

BUTCHERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CRAFT By Barry Dugan Photography By Gary Ottonello

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Locals have come to rely on butcher Don Alberigi, who learned the trade in his hometown of Occidental and has been running Willowside Meats since 1986.

utchers h ave neve r occupie chain. It d a glamo is a decid rous link edly gritt These skil in the foo y compone led practi d-produc nt of the tioners w tion and deliv food-mak ield sharp er an anim ing proce to ols to sep al’s prim ss. Their day arate fles al susten -to-day jo h from bo ance to o b involve unqualifi u ne r ta s doing th bles and ed and un freezers. e work th willing to Yet, where e re st of us a do. would we re wholly be without In Sonoma them? County’s sp ectrum of independen food produ t meat pro cers, there ducers and custom sau are a numb butchers p sage, baco er of small roviding cu n and smo stores. They stom cut an ked meats provide an d w th rap services at yo u won’t fin integral lin glimpses o , d at the big k in the ev f two local er-popular chain groce butchers. farm to tab ry le chain. H ere are

Willowside Meats

Don Alberigi has been in the butcher trade long enough to know that there’s more to this business than just selling meat. It’s about relationships with long-time customers and the diligence and thoughtfulness needed to establish and maintain a good reputation that spans nearly five decades. Alberigi has been running Willowside Meats, located about two miles west of Fulton Road in Santa Rosa, with his wife Darlene since 1986. It is a non-descript building, set back from the road with a gravel parking lot. A small retail counter is at the front of the store, with a cutting area and meat coolers in the rear. “It’s just an old-fashioned butcher shop,” said Alberigi. “It’s clean. It’s nothing fancy.” The majority of Willowside’s business involves custom butchery of wild game, fair animals or livestock that customers raise themselves. “We do a lot of custom stuff,” said Alberigi. “People raise their own animals now … because they don’t like what they’re buying in the grocery stores … they’re all shot up full of hormones.”

Animals are brought in from the Sonoma County Fair and Healdsburg Future Farmers Country Fair, where they are raised as projects and sold at the fair auction. In addition to custom meats, the butcher shop sells aged meats, bacon, ham, smoked meats and 25 types of sausage. Since Willowside is a stateinspected facility, the meats can only be sold on the premises. Another big part of the trade at Willowside is the preparation of game animals. On a Saturday morning, a longtime customer brought in a deer he had harvested on a ranch in Cloverdale. A long conversation ensued about other recent deer that had come in, what type of fat was needed for the sausage that was going to be made, the customer’s brother (who went to school with one of the butchers). A short time later, another familiar customer brought in an elk from a recent trip to Nevada. The same sort of comfortable banter continued; it was evident they entrusted their game with the crew at Willowside. At 69, Alberigi is not sure how much longer he’ll be running the business, but with most of his life spent in the meat processing industry, he’s carved out a unique niche for himself. winter 2014 +

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Sonoma County Meat Co. If Rian Rinn and Jenine Alexander had started their business 50 years ago, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d probably be in a downtown storefront, operating their neighborhood butcher shop with sawdust covering the floor and regular customers stopping by on the way home from work to pick up a chop or pound of bacon. Instead, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re tucked away on a quiet stretch of Sebastopol Avenue, near the intersection of Highway 12 and US 101 in Santa Rosa. They converted an old tire shop into a fully licensed USDA and State meat processing facilityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the first of its kind to open in Sonoma County in decades. Festooned with red-and-white striped awnings, the building features a small retail space with a display case filled with local products, their own sausage, bacon, jerky and just about anything else a carnivore might desire. On a Saturday, the small retail shop is

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not like a grocery store, I have my own clientele,â&#x20AC;? he said. He beckons a visitor to a row of metal file drawers, filled with 3x5-inch note cards containing 28 years worth of loyal customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; information. In addition, there are file drawers that include material on pork, beef, lamb, wild game and fairs. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got to build a reputation,â&#x20AC;? said Alberigi. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It takes a long time to build a reputation, but it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take very long to screw it up. When I got into this business, one thing I did was to pay attention to what the butchers did and I asked a lot of questions.â&#x20AC;? Before striking out on his own, Alberigi learned the butcher trade during 20 years at the Panizzera Meat Company in Occidental, the town where he grew up. As a youngster he worked for his aunt, Mary Panizzera, who owned the Union Hotel. He washed dishes, cleared tables, â&#x20AC;&#x153;everything but tending bar,â&#x20AC;? he said. In 1966, Joe Panizzera asked him to work for him at the Panizzera Meat Company, just up the street from the Union Hotel. In those days in Occidental, you were either related to, or knew everyone, in the small town. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was a great town to grow up in,â&#x20AC;? said Alberigi, whose father was also a butcher. Alberigi enjoys the social aspect of his work. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You get to meet a lot of people and make a lot of friends,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you make people happy, it makes you happy. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s satisfying. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got to spend a lot of time with customers, compared with a retail store. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about.â&#x20AC;?

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full. A woman is waiting as a clerk fetches some lamb shanks. A woman with a child is waiting to pick up a custom sausage order. “Things are going really well. People have been really supportive in the meat community in Sonoma County,” said Rinn, showing a visitor around the facility, which late on a Saturday afternoon is buzzing with activity. “This is nothing,” he added. “You should see it on a Friday.” The two Healdsburg natives, who are in their thirties, opened the shop in March of 2014, after spending years trying to find a suitable location (and nearly giving up). They spent a long time deciding what their

specialty meat sellers. “We are working with farmers that are sustainably raising animals, without antibiotics and hormones,” said Alexander. “They are raising animals with respect for the land and animals … with the idea that this is something that will be able to continue for many generations.” Rinn and Alexander have started a Meat CSA (community supported agriculture) program where customers can sign up for a monthly meat box of 5, 10 or 15 pounds and purchase local meats at a club rate. “This is one of my favorite parts of the business,” said Alexander, “because it is

fat from a piece of chuck. “I would see the butchers doing what they did, and I wanted to know how they did it. I would come in early to learn to cut meat and then go to work in the restaurant. I realized this was for me.” He worked as the head butcher at Willowside Meats in Santa Rosa, and he did custom slaughter and taught classes on the side. Prior to working with Rinn, Alexander worked at the meat counter at Big John’s Market in Healdsburg. She handles “the front of the house” at the Sonoma County Meat Co. “We feel really lucky to be able to

Butcher Rian Rin (pictured) and Jenine Alexander of Sonoma County Meat Co. are working with farmers that are sustainably raising animals, without antiobiotics and hormones.

facility would look like and how they would carry out the various processes of curing, smoking, sausage making, and cut and wrap services. “Jenine and I did a lot of research before we opened this place,” Rinn said. “We travelled all over the world, looked at different plants, processes, prices and asked ourselves, what do we want to carry?” What they carry is a little bit of everything. “We have something for everyone,” said Rinn. Customers can bring their animals for custom cut and wrap services. This may include an animal raised as a 4-H project, a deer or wild hog brought in by a hunter or from a rancher in Mendocino County that raises natural meats. They buy locally raised beef, pork, chicken and rabbit that they resell to customers. The USDA license allows them to buy animals and resell meat on site and to retail customers such as restaurants or

the most budget-friendly way for people who want to eat high-quality meat.” All of the meats are pasture-raised in Sonoma County, with the exception of some of the rabbits, which come from Napa. Their meat producers include Sonoma Natural Beef, lambs from Williams Ranches, and rabbits from Little M Farms. They also offer classes that include sausage making, bacon curing, knife skills and private butchery demonstrations and dinners. Theirs was a circuitous route to the meat business. Rinn raised animals in 4-H as a boy and sold them at the Healdsburg Future Farmers Country Fair. He attended culinary school and worked at some notable restaurants, including the highly acclaimed Fifth Floor restaurant in San Francisco. Yet Rinn said he always wanted to do what the butchers were doing. The kitchen end of the food business “wasn’t all it’s cracked up to be,” he said, talking quickly as he trimmed

do this,” she said. The butcher business has recently experienced an upturn. “But day in and day out, it’s not that glamorous,” she added. The payoff is that “I help provide people with sustenance, and the food we produce was raised by people we know; and the products we are making, we are making right here.” Rinn and Alexander display obvious pride in what they are doing. “I work with every single cut-and-wrap customer,” he said. “We’re not going to let anything go out of here that we don’t feel proud about. Our product quality here is better than anywhere else.” “Rian is really skilled in his craft,” said Alexander. “I love that, as a team, we are able to provide something that is useful for Sonoma County. And hopefully we’re able to support farmers. If they are doing well, we are doing well. It’s a symbiotic relationship.” SD

winter 2014 +

ESCAPE

+ sonoma discoveries

REDWOODS, RAVENS AND RELAXATION

The afternoon sun pours thin slices of light through the still redwood grove. Particles of dust—made of decomposed plant material, road dust, tiny insect parts and maybe fairy wings—swirl in and out of the light. The murmur of a family walking a nearby trail fades in and out. Car tires crunch softly. You start to nod off. “Krraukk! Krraukk! Krrrrrrraukkk!” You’re awake now. The croak of the Common Raven is unlike the excited squawk of its little brother, the crow. A raven is louder than a crow and more commanding than a police dog. When it hollers at you from a perch in a redwood tree, you pay attention. And, if you’re on the valley floor in Armstrong Woods, you’re in Raven Country. An escape to Armstrong Woods is one of the simpler getaways in Sonoma County’s Great Northwest. Armstrong Woods Road is right off Main Street in downtown Guerneville. If you’re coming into Guerneville from River Road, turn right at the second light and follow the road into the park. You can park your car for free in the parking lot by the visitors center, but if you pay $8 per vehicle ($7 for seniors) you can drive right to a picnic spot.

By Ray Holley photos by Sarah Bradbury

winter 2014 +

SEBASTOPOL Hiking in Armstrong Woods ranges from easy to punishing. You can stroll the mile-long Pioneer Trail along the valley floor, you can hike nine miles all the way out of the park and back (while climbing 1,500 feet), or find something in between. The park website lists a few “moderate level” hikes that are a good fit with an afternoon escape. The primary— and most popular— public area of the park is the valley floor, with big trees, walking paths, picnic areas and a seasonal creek. If you imagine yourself floating over the entrance, you can see a trail that follows a ridgeline along the right side of the valley, and another along the left. Either trail—or both—are the perfect one- to two-hour hour workout. The East Ridge Trail (on the right) leaves from the parking lot by the visitors center, winds its way along a ridge, and drops you at a large parking lot at the far end of the valley. If you park inside— recommended so you can stake out a good picnic table—walk the nature trail back to the entrance, visit the restroom, and start up the trail. After a rain or in a light drizzle is a perfect time to hike East Ridge Trail. The woods seem even quieter when they’re wet, and colors are magnified and enhanced. The trail is uneven, with roots, rocks and limbs all seeking to reclaim their space, so

resist the temptation to look up the whole time. If you see a particularly inviting vista, just stop and stare; Mother Nature doesn’t mind, and you won’t trip over an exposed root hidden in a shadow. Do pay attention to the forest, and listen and watch for your wild companions. When you’re walking through oaks and bay laurels, you’ll see and hear more birds. When you’re in the redwoods, your footsteps will be quieter as you walk through fallen needles (known as duff). If the weather has been wet, you’ll learn to spot banana slugs. Yellowish-green with brown spots, Wikipedia claims that the Pacific Banana Slug is the second-largest terrestrial slug in the world and can grow to almost 10 inches long. Most slugs in Armstrong Woods are about half that size. They eat fallen leaves, animal droppings and other natural trash, recycling it all into rich humus. The hike along East Ridge Trail, and a similar hike along Pool Ridge Trail, takes you up and up, then offers a pleasant traverse along the ridge before dropping you down quickly to the valley floor. You can vary your pace, turning your journey into a stroll or a workout. Take time to explore the valley floor. The Parson Jones Tree is more than 310 feet tall, the Colonel Armstrong Tree is estimated to be the oldest at 1,400

What to Bring Bring layers of clothing. A fall or winter morning in Armstrong Woods can be downright nippy, with afternoons ranging from cool to mild. A comfortable camp chair with a blanket can be nap-inducing, especially after a hike and lunch. You can bring a picnic from home, but you might want to indulge yourself and pick up food in Guerneville. The commercial center of the Russian River area, Guerneville is an eclectic village, home to gay and lesbian weekend festivals, easy river access, old family homes, a few sketchy people, and decent food. A favorite is Big Bottom Market on Main Street. Big Bottom makes delicious hot or cold sandwiches and offers an interesting selection of biscuits, sides and salads. Beer, wine and artisan sodas are cold and ready to grab.

+ sonoma discoveries

Resources Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve parks.ca.gov Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods stewardsscr.org Big Bottom Market bigbottommarket.com Russian River Chamber of Commerce russianriver.com

Visit our Tasting Room 10:30am – 4:30pm Thursday – Sunday

Food tastes great under the trees, and picnic areas are scattered around the back half of the valley floor.

or by appointment years-plus, and the Icicle Tree shows off the massive burl formations seen on many redwoods. Stay on the trails. The massive redwoods are healthiest when people aren’t stomping and compressing the soil around them or carving names into their bark. The ecosystem that evolved along with the trees is fragile, and best experienced in the rainy season, when lush ferns and sorrel carpet the undergrowth. A word about redwood sorrel: the plant looks like particularly vigorous clover, with thin green stems and three-leaved formations. The sorrel you see all over Sonoma County has yellow flowers, but the redwood sorrel here in the park has pink flowers. As you wander the valley floor, take in the Redwood Theater. When Armstrong Woods became a park in the 1800s, and during the first half of the 20th Century, we had different ideas about parks. The theater was well-used for performances, and similar redwood preserves throughout the state featured saloons, lodges, even dance floors atop massive tree stumps. Nowadays, we like to tread lightly and see nature itself as the attraction. The Redwood Theater is still used for performances once each fall, as the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods, a conservation group, holds a fundraising event in the theater, but it’s mostly a quirky artifact, a quiet place to sit and contemplate

or take in an impromptu “performance” by a passing hiker who feels inspired by the old stone stage. Done wandering and ready to chill? Every good escape mixes activity and relaxation. The picnic areas at Armstrong Woods are scattered around the back half of the valley floor. You can pick a table under a redwood, by the creek, even on a little bluff overlooking the parking area. The ponderous old tables are made from thick lumber, and older picnic sites have stone barbecues where you can light a little fire. Whether you fuss over picnicking and bring a tablecloth, centerpiece and dishes, or eat your sandwich from the paper in which it’s wrapped, food tastes great under the trees. Armstrong Woods has few varmints; the Sequioa Sempervirens (Coast Redwood) ecosystem is remarkably simple. You might see a few irritated squirrels wondering why there are no nuts on these giant trees, and Scrub Jays will cruise you for handouts, but the dominant wildlife is the raven. One of the smartest birds around, ravens have large territories, so the raven croaking at you while you eat may be half of just a few mated pairs in the park. Do watch for wasps. Known commonly as yellow-jackets, these bee impersonators love picnics, but will often accept an offering of a bit of meat placed on a plate a dozen feet away from your lunch. SD

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Client: Paul Mathew Run date: 11-27-14 Ad title/slug: 1/6 page color Returned approval due by: ASAP Scheduled to run in: Disco Winter 2014 Please check this proof carefully for errors and omissions. Your signature below constitutes acceptance of full responsibility for all errors, omissions and legal and ethical compliance in this document. Sonoma West Publishers will not accept liability for errors overlooked at this stage of proofing. Any changes from your previously approved copy will be charged extra according to both time and materials. Advertiser agrees to pay appropriate rates and production costs as specified in the current rate card. All conditions of the latest rate card apply. OK AS IS Your signature and date

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Client: Northwood Golf

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ART&ABOUT

Erickson Fine Art Gallery

HEALDSBURG CENTER FOR THE ARTS

Christie Marks Fine Art Gallery

“Hot Wax!” Encaustic paintings by Mira M. White and Catherine McCauley, Nov. through Jan. 4; “Conversation with the Artists,” Dec. 20, 5 p.m. Open 1-6 p.m., Thursday through Sunday. 322 Healdsburg Ave., 2nd Floor, Healdsburg. christiemarksfineart.com. Cloverdale Arts Alliance Gallery

Graton Gallery Mylette Welch, paintings, Dec. 2-Jan. 11. Reception for Welch and guest artists on Dec. 6, 2-5 p.m. Also: Showing the works of more than 50 local artists and artisans. Open Tues. through Sat. 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sun. 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Monday. 9048 Graton Rd., Graton. gratongallery.net.

Art for the Holidays, annual fine art and craft gift gallery featuring unique, functional, wearable and decorative art created by more than 30 Northern California artists, through Dec. 31. Open daily (excluding Tuesdays) 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. 130 Plaza St., Healdsburg. healdsburgcenterforthearts.com.

“Potential,” new art by the gallery artists, through Jan. 16. Open Friday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. 204 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale. cloverdaleartsalliance.org.

HAND FAN MUSEUM Open Wed. through Sun., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed holidays and rainy days. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. handfanmuseum.org.

Representing the best of Northern California painters and sculptors: Bobette Barnes, Joe Draegert, Finley Fryer, Chris Grassano, Susan Hall, John Haines, Jerome Kirk, Donna McGinnis, Tom Monaghan, Jean Mooney, Jeanne Mullen, Bob Nugent, Carlos Perez, Sam Racina, Carol Setterlund, Jeffrey Van Dyke, Paul Van Lith, Antoinette Von Grone and Kathleen Youngquist. Open daily 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Wed. by appointment. 324 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. ericksonfineartgallery.com. Gualala Arts Center

“Shameless!” features art as a product, a commodity and a thing that can be sold, Dec. 5-Dec. 28. Opening reception Dec. 5, 5-7 p.m. An Artistic Celebration of Redwood Coast Land Conservancy’s Public Access, Jan. 9-Feb. 1, opening reception Jan. 9, 5-7 p.m. Coastal Synaesthesio: Paintings and Photographs of Hawaii, Fiji and California by Brandy Gale, Jan. 9-Feb. 1, opening reception Jan. 9, 5-7 p.m. Small Works, Feb. 6-28, opening reception Feb. 6, 5-7 p.m. Open 9 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays, noon-4 p.m. weekends. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala. gualalaarts.org. Hammerfriar

Featuring original artwork by established and emerging Bay Area conceptual artists. Open Tues.-Fri.,10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 132 Mill St., Suite 101, Healdsburg. hammerfriar.com.

“Thin Blue Line” by Catherine McCauley

Dolphin Gallery

Dolphin Volunteer Art Show through Dec. 29. Holiday boutique through Dec. 29. David Kyle photography and Barbara Fast baskets, gourds and weaving, Jan. 10-Feb. 3; opening reception Jan. 10, 5-7 p.m. Joyce George paintings and Walt Rush jewelry, Feb. 7-March 1; opening reception Feb 7, 5-7 p.m. 39225 Highway 1, Gualala. Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. gualalaarts.org.

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Nichibei Potters

Blending the elegant tradition of Japanese folk art with a contemporary flair resulting in an innovative collection of handmade pottery. 28th Annual Holiday Open House, a peaceful way to do your holiday shopping, Dec. 6-7, 13-14, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Visit by appointment: 1991 Burnside Rd., Sebastopol. nichebeipotters.com. Ren Brown Collection

“Woodblocks Prints Exhibit,” showcasing work by such gallery artists as Micah Schwaberow, Tadashi Nakayama, Yoshikatsu Tamekane and many others,

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A huge place to browse! Fido friendly! Visit our delicious bakery too!

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APPROVAL

Fine Art and

Client: Ren Brown Run date: 11-27-14 CraftsAdby Sonoma County Artists title/slug: 1/3 page color Returned approval due by: ASAP Scheduled to run in: Disco Winter 2014 Please check this proof carefully for errors and omissions. Your signature below constitutes acceptance of full responsibility for all errors, omissions and legal and ethical compliance in this document. Sonoma West Publishers will not accept liability for errors overlooked at this stage of proofing. Any changes from your previously approved copy will be charged extra according to both time and materials. Advertiser agrees to pay appropriate rates and production costs as specified in the current rate card. All conditions of the latest rate card apply. OK AS IS Your signature and date

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SEBASTOPOL-GALLERY.COM (707) 829-7200 150 NORTH MAIN ST. SEBASTOPOL CA, 95472 OPEN 11-6 DAILY

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HEALDSBURG

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Dec. 3-Jan. 11. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Celebrating 25 Years in Bodega Bayâ&#x20AC;? featuring etchings by Ryohei Tanaka of Kyoto and mezzotints by Mikio Watanabe of Paris, Jan. 16-March 1. Also: Rotating exhibits of contemporary Japanese printmakers and local artists featuring Japanese tansu chests, fine jewelry, woodfired and salt-glazed ceramics. Wed.-Sun.,10 a.m.-5 p.m., 1781 Coast Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay. renbrown.com.

GALLERIES

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beasties!â&#x20AC;? features animals, large or small from any kingdom, real or born in the realm of the artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; imagination: animal-like creatures, prehistoric, realistic to futuristic and expressions of internal â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wild sideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fears or dreams, through Dec. 6. Gallery II: â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Close Kinshipâ&#x20AC;? showing Chiyomi Longoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paintings and Tom Basileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photography reflecting on trees. Gallery III: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Four Hands Painting: The Golden Thread,â&#x20AC;? new works created by painters Susan Cornelis and Suzanne Edminster related to their journey outside the boundaries of one mind and into the world of four hands. Annual Member Show, Dec. 11-Jan. 10. Holiday Ceramics Sale: Dec. 12, 6-9 p.m., Dec. 13, 9 a.m.-4 p.m., featuring functional and decorative pieces. SCA, open Tues-Fri., 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sat. 1-4 p.m., 282 S. High St., Sebastopol Veterans Building, Sebastopol. sebarts.org.

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Sebastopol Center for the Arts

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Sebastopol Gallery

Ceramics by Connie Robeson through Dec. 31; reception Dec. 6. Open daily 11 a.m.6 p.m. 150 North Main St., Sebastopol. sebastopol-gallery.com. Towers Gallery

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dazzleâ&#x20AC;? featuring painter Nancy Burres, showing â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dazzling Autumn Colorsâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Splash.â&#x20AC;? En Plein Air painters John Farnsworth, Angle Fabela, Nancy Sanchetti, Nicole Ours, Linda Raye Simms and Marjorie Murray-Cortez. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dewâ&#x20AC;? photography by Suzie Rose and scratchboard by Alex Murray. Artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; reception, Dec. 6, 5-9 p.m. Music by Michael Hantman, wine by Milano Family Wines. Open Friday-Monday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. 240 North Cloverdale Blvd. Suite 2, Cloverdale. towersgallery.com. Upstairs Art Gallery

The gallery, inside Levin & Company community booksellers, is a showcase for local art, featuring an eclectic mix of paintings, mixed media, collage, drawings, prints and a selection of fine arts and jewelry. The gallery is owned and operated by local artists. Open daily, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. 306 Center St., Healdsburg. upstairsartgallery.com.

The largest Art Center in California north of San Francisco

www.sebarts.org 282 S. High St. Sebastopol, CA 707.829.4797 winter 2014 +

CALENDAR LIVE MUSIC + FOOD + WINE + ART + KID FUN + GARDENS + FIREWORKS + SONOMA FUN

DECEMBER DECEMBER 4-6

Guerneville’s Holiday Extravaganza

Visit our website for a complete listing of area events. sonomadiscoveries.com

DECEMBER 6

21st Annual Sing-Along Messiah Directed by John Maas, this annual event features local instrumentalists and soloists to bolster timid voices. No experience necessary. 2 p.m. $6 / $15 family up to four. United Methodist Church, 500 N. Main St., Sebastopol. sebarts.org.

The holiday season along the Russian River begins on Dec. 4 with a Merchant Open House featuring shopping and appetizers on Main Street (4-7 p.m.) and the Great Tree Lighting Ceremony with caroling by the El Molino Choir at the Town Plaza (7-8 p.m.). Crowning of the next Princess or Prince occurs at Chef Patrick’s on Dec. 5 (6-9 p.m. The next night is the 2014 Russian River Parade of Lights when communities from West County and the Russian River come together and celebrate the beauty of the holidays. “We are expecting over 40 magical floats this year. We are even trying to bring in some big rigs … You’ll see families and children rejoicing, the local bars and restaurants packed with excited people, and the town of Guerneville lit up and absolutely decked out in Christmas decor. You’re guaranteed to have a great time but remember to dress warm because last year it was in the low 30s, perfect for a real Christmas parade,” parade organizer Herman G. Hernandez said. Families, friends and visitors snuggle up street-side to watch the colorful parade. “It’s absolutely beautiful and the children absolutely love it,” said Joann Bacci with the Russian River Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center. Parade of Lights, 7-9 p.m. russianriver.com. DECEMBER 4

Sebastopol Holiday Town Tree Lighting

This feel-good event brings everybody in town together to celebrate. Mr. Music leads a sing-along, nonprofits organize craft activities for the kids, entertainers share their talents, and the town provides free hot beverages and treats. The event wraps up with Santa’s arrival on a firetruck. “It’s all about commaradarie—families, kids and the spirit of the whole town,” said Teresa Ramondo, Sebastopol Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center executive

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DECEMBER 4 -31

Windsor’s Charlie Brown Christmas Tree Grove The original Christmas tree on the Windsor Town Green was a struggling cedar, which the Town Green Village residents affectionately called the Charlie Brown Tree. Today 200 community-decorated Christmas trees and a Menorah take center stage during the month of December, beginning December 4 with the official lighting of the Charlie Brown Christmas Tree Grove, called the heart and soul of the holiday season in Old Downtown Windsor. There will be horse-drawn carriage rides, students caroling, the arrival of Santa and snow flurries, at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. nightly. The grove is accessible 24 hours a day, making evening visits traditionally sparkling amongst the glowing lights, and daytime sojourns heart-warming with easy viewing of handmade ornaments and special tributes. olddowntownwindsor.com.

GEYSERVILLE

an old-fashioned store, rich in nostalgia and charm, yet meeting the needs of today’s townfolks and visitors. Mens Western apparel & work clothes Saddles and tack • Hardware • antiques

Diavola practices the time honored tradition of Cucina Povera which consists of using the most basic, locally available ingredients combined with recipes that have been proven through centuries. We take pride in our house cured salumi and sausages as well as our authentic Italian pizzas fresh from our wood burning pizza oven.

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CALENDAR

director. 5-8 p.m. Town Square, Sebastopol. sebastopol.org. DECEMBER 5

Cloverdale Christmas Tree Lighting

Come to the downtown plaza to celebrate this 49-year-old tradition, sponsored by the Cloverdale Lions Club and the Cloverdale Chamber of Commerce. Carolers, hot apple cider, treats and photos with Santa. Rain or shine. 5 p.m. cloverdalechamber.com. DECEMBER 5, 6, 7, 13, 14 DECEMBER 7

Zen Fest Holiday Sale You’ll discover an intriguing mix of treasures and gifts, spiritual practice supplies, signature jams and other edibles as well as a silent auction, Japanese lunch and rummage sale. Free admission. This is a benefit for Stone Creek Zen Center, a friendly welcoming community that offers periods of quiet meditation, lectures and classes on Zen practice and Buddhist teachings. 9 am to 4 pm, Masonic Center, 373 North Main St., across from Safeway in Sebastopol. stonecreekzencenter. org .

A Christmas with Hansel and Gretel

Come see how this tale is re-imagined as inspired by the classic board game of Candy Land. Lincoln Arts Center, 709 Davis St., Santa Rosa. ATFCShows.com. DECEMBER 6, 13, 20

Costeaux French Bakery’s Breakfast with Santa

This charming, award-winning and familyowned Healdsburg bakery transforms into a European-style holiday delight for children during three Saturdays in December. Kids are treated to a special breakfast menu before given the opportunity to have their pictures taken with Santa. Also, a white mailbox awaits children’s correspondence. “Some draw pictures or write letters to Santa, and then Santa responds in February, after his vacation,” said Aimee Oandasan, office manager and assistant to the owner. “We are very festively decorated for Christmas, including our collection of over 300 nutcrackers and there’s music playing. Some people come in here on those Saturdays and just sit in the back and enjoy the experience.” 9-11 a.m. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. costeaux.com.

DECEMBER 19-21

THE SEBASTOPOL NUTCRACKER The Sebastopol Ballet has staged the “The Nutcracker Ballet” every December since 1992. This year’s production features local dance students of all ages and guest artists.

DECEMBER 6-7

‘Twas the Night Before Christmas

Teresa Lubarsky’s Healdsburg Ballet holds it annual production of this original adaptation that features ballet, jazz and hip hop performed to classical and contemporary music. Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg. For times and tickets: healdsburgballet.com.

Two Saturday matinee performances are new, and a complimentary Sugar Plum Party for children takes place before each Saturday and Sunday show. As the story goes, the ballet takes place on Christmas Eve many years ago and tells about a girl named Clara, who receives the gift of a Nutcracker that later that night comes alive and, with other toys, battles with the Mouse Queen and her minions. After vanquishing the mice, the Nutcracker transforms into a

DECEMBER 7

Strolling Dine Around

For a delicious, fun night in Healdsburg, you can enjoy a progressive four-course meal at four different restaurants. Have an appetizer at the first restaurant, first course

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Prince and takes Clara on a magical adventure through the Land of Sweets. $22 reserved seating; $17 general admission; $12 youth /senior admission. sebastopolballet.com.

at the second, main course at the third, and then dessert at the fourth. Reservations required. healdsburg.com/events.

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DECEMBER 7

Motorcyle Toy Run

Ride with Santa leading the pack or simply enjoy the festivities, including live music with Double Standard, no-host bar, tri-tip BBQ, 50/50 raffle and prizes. Your only cost is a new, unwrapped toy, to be donated to the Christmas wish program for needy children. Rain or shine. Sponsored by the Cloverdale Lions Club. 707-280-0945, 548-0416. DECEMBER 13-14

Goddess Crafts Faire

A beautiful community celebration of the coming of winter through women’s art, music and dance. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sebastopol Community Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol. goddesscraftsfaire.com. DECEMBER 14

Cloverdale Historical Society Open House

Storyteller, scavanger hunt, tree decorating, rootbeer floats and treats. 215 N Cloverdale Blvd, Cloverdale. cloverdalehistory.org.

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DECEMBER 17

Cookies and Carols

The Windsor High School Culinary Class and Café Noto have baked 1,000 cookies to keep you energized during Windsor’s first Christmas Carol sing-along. 6:30 p.m. Raven Theater, Windsor. raventheater.org/ windsor. DECEMBER 22

Occidental Union Hotel’s Christmas Caroling

“As the holiday season begins, the delicious smell of my mom’s gingerbread cookies, biscotti and tortas and the scent of Christmas garlands make me feel happy,” notes Gienna Michel Gonnella, about growing up in the oldest family-run restaurant in Sonoma County. You’ll be able to share the spirit with the Gonnella Family when they host their annual Christmas Caroling (going on 30 years) on the last Monday night before Christmas. “We usually light a fire on the patio. People are out there snuggled by the fire in the courtyard. It’s just a magical evening. Everyone is wrapped in scarfs and sweaters holding their spiced cider and caroling books, immersed in singing,” said hotel owner Barbara Gonnella. Festivities start at 7 p.m. The event is free, and there are cookies galore. unionhoteloccidental.com

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APPROVAL

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Run date: 11-27-14

winter 2014 +

CALENDAR

JANUARY 17-18

23rd Annual Winter Wineland The vineyards are in their winter dormancy but the Wine Road landscape is beautiful in every season. Travel from winery to winery, socialize and learn—and catch wine deals too good to pass up. Meet the winemakers, taste limited production wines, new releases or library wines. All wineries will have something on sale for the weekend. Some wineries will offer food pairings and others will have tours. Download the detailed program to see exactly what each winery will offer for the weekend to plan your tasting adventure. Ticket price includes wine tasting at all of the participating wineries for the weekend. 11 a.m.-4 p.m. each day. wineroad.com.

Whale Watching Join docents at Bodega Head for an interpretive talk and viewing of the Pacific gray whale migration. Docents are available on the weekend. Special docent-led viewings can be arranged upon request, and groups of 10 or more can book private naturalist or docentled Whale Watch programs. stewardscr.org, 707-869-9177.

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JANUARY-FEBRUARY THROUGH JANUARY 4

All Aboard for Toyland

The Healdsburg Museum and Historical Society presents its annual holiday antique toy exhibit, this year called All Aboard for Toyland and featuring trains. The collection is especially fun because residents will be sharing their own toys that are 50 years or older combined with displays created by the museum’s curator and a team of talented volunteers. “If you need to get into the holiday spirit, this is a good way into it. It’ll be a combination of toys that will appeal to old-timers, toys that they played with as children and toys that can be introduced to young children, that people played with in the past,” said Holly Hoods, curator. And because children love to play with toys (not just look at them), Hoods said hands-on toys will also be available. Model train

Visit our website for a complete listing of area events. sonomadiscoveries.com

enthusiast Wayne Rudd contributed a miniature version of the Healdsburg Train Depot and surrounding buildings. There will be a model train chugging around its tracks and other train-related toys as well as a large display case filled with other antique toys such as dolls. Also decorated for the holidays: “The Extraordinary Life of the Healdsburg plaza,” a miniature version of the plaza in 1886. Opening reception Nov. 28. Hours: 11-4, Wed-Sun. Free. 221 Matheson St., Healdsburg. 707431-3325. healdsburgmuseum.org.

FEBRUARY 15

Sweet 116 Visit 12 wineries in 12 miles on Taste Route 116. This post-Valentine’s Day event features sweet treats and wine tasting, plus collectable hand-painted souvenir glasses made by local artists. “It’s a great way to taste a lot of different wines, have fun and celebrate the holiday,” said Graton Ridge Cellars manager Pat Paulson. “We are all family owned and operated—we don’t distribute our wines at all. We’re trying to get people to come here to the West County. This area is up and coming with new wineries popping up all the time. We are small, friendly and laid back.” Route 116 wineries are making world class Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, Zinfandels and more, and they include: Atascadero Creek Winery, Balletto Vineyards & Winery, Dutton Estate Winery, Graton Ridge Cellars, Hanna Winery, Hook & Ladder Winery (Sebastopol location), Jigar Wines (Forestville location), Martin Ray Winery, Occidental Road Cellars, Russian River Vineyards, Taft Street Winery and Wine Guerrilla. $35 per person, $30 Wine Club members ($10 designated drivers). Event sells out. tasteroute116.com.

THROUGH FEBRUARY 9 + JANUARY 10 TOUR

Hole in the Head: The Battle for Bodega Bay and the Birth of the Environmental Movement

The Sonoma County Museum presents a special exhibition through Feb. 9 that tells the dramatic story of the fight to prevent a proposed nuclear plant in Bodega Bay, which took place roughly between 1958 and 1964, highlighting the individuals involved in the struggle and honoring the region’s environmental activists. Text, photographs, artifacts and multimedia help tell the story. The exhibition covers: The Atomic Age Context, Early Awareness, Battle Underway, People’s Fight, and Music and Aftermath. Leading a tour to Bodega Head on Jan. 10: Dr. Matthew James, professor of geology and chair of the Geology Department at Sonoma State University, and Dr. Doris Sloan, a leader of the fight against the nuclear plant at Bodega and retired professor of geology from UC Berkeley. Tour-goers should meet at the Campbell Cove parking lot at 10 a.m. Exhibition: Sonoma County Museum, 425 7th St., Santa Rosa. sonomacountymuseum. org. JANUARY 25

Redwood Art Council’s 35th Anniversary: Mysterious, Musical, Delicious Cuba!

Experience the sights, sounds and tastes of Cuba with the Walden Chamber Players. Walden will be joined by classical guitarist Robert Bekkers to present a dazzling program of 20th and 21st century Cuban chamber music. Concert 4 p.m., dinner 6 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, Bohemian Highway near Graton Road. redwoodarts.org. FEBRUARY 12

Peter Serkin Plays Mozart

The San Francisco Symphony heads north to the Green Music Center on the campus of Sonoma State University, presenting Peter Serkin in February who, said The New York Times, plays “as if channeling the music from another realm.” Serkin joins Herbert Blomstedt for Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 19. These concerts also feature Sibelius’s exhilarating Second Symphony, a Blomstedt specialty. Joan and Sanford I. Weill Hall, Green Music Center, 1801 East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park–gmc. sonoma.edu.

FEBRUARY 13-16

Cloverdale Citrus Fair When the fair first started in 1892, Cloverdale was a burgeoning area for citrus in California. It continues to be the earliest fair of the season. Among the many attractions are the elaborate, three-dimensional fruit exhibits. This year’s theme is Up, Up and Away so expect exhibits to feature hot air balloons, airplanes, rocket ships and other aviation themes. “We have a carnival, livestock shows, arts and crafts and commercial vendors but our fair is unique because of the large 3-D citrus sculptures. It’s a big undertaking and the featured exhibits are built from scratch,” said Jordan Jackson of Cloverdale. “It’s a small town country fair but it’s different than your standard carnival. My children are here from the time it opens on Friday until it closes on Monday—it’s that much fun. It appeals to all ages.” The national San Francisco Chronicle Wine Judging Competition also takes place during this time, followed by a public tasting of the medal-winning wines at Fort Mason Center in San Francisco on February 14. cloverdalecitrusfair.org.

FEBRUARY 15

Chinese New Year Celebration

Celebrate the Year of the Ram during this annual, colorful event put on by the Redwood Empire Chinese Association. Enjoy cultural performances, singing and dramatic dragons greeting the new year. 6-9 p.m. Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building, 1351 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa. recacenter.org.

fall 2014 +

NEXT ISSUE Coming up in Sonoma Discoveries for Spring: The Grange Revival Eco-adventures Modern wine tasting rooms Interviews with chefs and farmers Seasonal recipes and pairings Winemaker videos on sonomadiscoveries.com

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112 4th Street Santa Rosa • 525-1690 M-F 6:30-3, Sat & Sun 7-4

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APPROVAL

Client: Omelette Express Ad title/slug: 1/4 page color

Run date: 11-27-14

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