a first look at our editors’ most exciting new wines
Insider
Vol. 10, No. 43 | Nov. 12, 2014
Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher
A Members-Only, Weekly Publication
At 98 points, the highest-scoring Oregon wine we’ve ever rated leads the pack in this week’s Wine Spectator Insider, a glimpse at some of the most exciting wines our editors have recently tasted. But this report is packed with classic and outstanding examples of many styles from around the world, including California Syrah and Rioja at 96 points. Starting with the New World, California reds including Cabernet and Syrah come on strong, with Pruett, Paul Hobbs, Behrens Family and Lagier Meredith in the mix. Oregon Pinot from the highly promising 2012 vintage delivers, including top bottlings from Evening Land and Elk Cove. Spain has winners in Muga, Viña Mambrilla and El Nido, while Rhône standouts, super Tuscans and South African curiosities round this out. Nine wines here come in at $40 or less; don’t miss the six Hot Wines on page 4.
CALIFORNIA
Lagier Meredith
Paul Hobbs
92 points | $48 | 425 cases made | Red
Syrah Mount Veeder 2012
Syrah Sonoma County Kick Ranch Vineyard 2012
A dense, muscular Syrah, intensely tannic and chewy, with a tight core of beefy, peppery wild berry, dried herb and savory flavors that are vibrant and compelling. Tight and closed, ending with chewy tannins. Best from 2018 through 2028.—J.L.
93 points | $50 | 290 cases made | Red Pure and complex, with vivid blackberry, wild berry and dark plum notes, showing spicy-peppery-floral scents and firm, gripping tannins that hold the flavors on the palate, ending with a splash of smoky-mocha nuances. Drink now through 2024.—J.L.
FRANCE
Pruett
Rhône
Syrah Sierra Foothills CSP 2012
93 points | $36 | 150 cases made | Red
Paul Autard
Remarkably fresh and vibrant, with a solid core of graphite-laced blackberry, black licorice, gravelly earth, tobacco, mocha and espresso. The flavors grow and linger, supported by chewy tannins that add to the textural nuances. Drink now through 2028.—J.L.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée La Côte Ronde 2012
93 points | $70 | 140 cases imported | Red A rich, layered style, with velvety raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry confiture flavors that roll over each other, showing hints of warm fruitcake, melted licorice and ganache along the way. The lovely singed juniper hint adds just enough frame to the finish for balance, though this clearly relies on flattering fruit. Best from 2018 through 2025.—J.M.
Behrens Family The Answer Napa Valley 2012
92 points | $125 | 120 cases made | Red Offers broad flavors, with raspberry, blackberry, anise, cedar and tar all well-proportioned, gaining depth and holding focus. The flavors sail along, aided by firm tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2026.—J.L.
Wine Spectator Insider
Nov. 12, 2014
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E. Guigal
I Greppi
Hermitage 2009
Bolgheri Superiore Greppicaia 2011
93 points | $90 | 95 cases imported | Red
92 points | $55 | 400 cases imported | Red
Has a slightly roasted frame, with espresso and bittersweet cocoa notes, revealing a rock-solid core of dark plum, black currant and licorice flavors that flow through the grippy, tar- and loam-edged finish. Reveals lots of singed alder and bay accents in the background. Needs some cellaring to settle into itself. Best from 2017 through 2027.—J.M.
A tightly wound red, with black cherry, leather and tobacco notes intertwined with dusty tannins. Not that expressive today, but concentrated and long, presenting a fresh, mineral-tinged finish. Best from 2016 through 2025.—B.S.
Castelli del Grevepesa Chianti Classico Clemente VII 2011
hervé souhaut
92 points | $20 | 1,000 cases imported | Red
St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine 2013
An old-school Chianti, boasting chestnut, cherry, leather and tobacco aromas and flavors on a broad-shouldered frame. There’s ample fruit and sweetness here, along with earthy, savory notes and a firm, pleasantly astringent finish. Best from 2017 through 2024.—B.S.
92 points | $62 | 183 cases made | Red A pure, racy style, with vibrant violet, plum and cassis notes laced with white pepper and bay hints that stretch through the long, iron-infused finish. Elegant, but very persistent, displaying a lovely echo of bramble in the background. Drink now through 2022.—J.M.
OREGON Pinot Noir
Domaine Rouvre St.-Leger Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun 2011
90 points | $24 | 50 cases imported | Red
Aubichon
Ripe and racy, with a mix of loganberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit, lined with savory, sage and pepper notes that carry through an alder-framed finish. Solid. Drink now through 2016.—J.M.
Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Armstrong Vineyard 2012
94 points | $55 | 135 cases made | Red Focused, with great presence to the spicy, peppery blackberry and cherry flavors, splayed over a polished frame and lingering on the expressive finish. Deep and persistent. Drink now through 2022.—H.S.
ITALY
Casa di Terra
Elk Cove
Bolgheri Mosaico 2010
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Five Mountain 2012
94 points | $60 | 5,000 cases imported | Red
94 points | $60 | 532 cases made | Red
Offers an impressive combination of black currant, black cherry, anise, cedar and mineral flavors, with a dense yet plush texture. The tannins are beefy and in tune with the fruit and lively acidity, leaving a tactile sensation in their wake. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2024.—B.S.
Vibrant, spicy and minerally, with crushed-gravel overtones to the dark berry, black cherry and cocoa flavors, persisting easily against fine tannins on the long, expressive and open finish. Best from 2016 through 2022.—H.S.
Campo alla Sughera
Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2012
Evening Land
Bolgheri Adèo 2012
93 points | $40 | 770 cases made | Red
93 points | $43 | 350 cases imported | Red
Silky, expressive and minerally, this medium-weight red layers its blackberry, black cherry, tar and river stone flavors and aromatics on an open frame, lingering easily on the polished finish. Drink now through 2022.—H.S.
Blueberry, black currant and violet notes are enhanced by vanilla and sweet spice accents in this suave red. Dense and structured, with a long, fresh aftertaste. Just needs a little time to absorb the oak. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2016 through 2024.—B.S.
Elk Cove Pinot Noir Willamette Valley La Bohéme 2012
Ceralti
93 points | $60 | 794 cases made | Red
Bolgheri Superiore Alfeo 2011
Supple and light-footed, with remarkable density to the red plum and blackberry fruit, shaded with hints of cocoa and white pepper as the harmonious finish persists. Drink now through 2022.—H.S.
92 points | $35 | 400 cases imported | Red Bright raspberry, cherry, violet and spice flavors herald this elegant, intense red. Juicy and refined, this builds to a long aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Enjoyable now, but should develop over the next 10 years. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2016 through 2024.—B.S.
Evening Land Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2012
90 points | $28 | 5,226 cases made | Red Sleek and inviting, with delicacy to the cherry and floral aromas and flavors as they dance deftly into the persistent finish. Drink now through 2019.—H.S.
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Nov. 12, 2014
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SOUTH AFRICA
Mas d’en Gil
Sadie Family
94 points | $100 | 500 cases made | Red
Priorat Clos Fontà 2008
Columella Swartland 2012
An alluring package of focus, depth and harmony, this offers a polished texture, supported by firm tannins and delivering plum, licorice, mineral, floral and smoky flavors, balanced and fresh. Restrained and graceful, this brings you back for another sip. Drink now through 2022.—T.M.
94 points | $140 | 194 cases imported | Red This is well-built, with a bolt of graphite holding fairly weighty blackberry, plum and black currant paste flavors together. Lots of singed juniper and charcoal accents rumble in the background, while a delightfully brambly feel pervades the finish. Displays range and energy, but needs cellaring to meld fully. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2017 through 2025.—J.M.
Bodegas Monasterio Ribera del Duero Hacienda Monasterio Reserva 2010
94 points | $51 | 112 cases imported | Red
Sadie Family
This big red has both polish and density, with muscular, wellintegrated tannins supporting the rich texture. The flavors are more harmonious than expressive, with plum, licorice, tar, mineral and coffee notes. Impressive structure. Best from 2018 through 2030.—T.M.
Kokerboom Olifants River 2013
93 points | $70 | 30 cases imported | White Offers stunning mouthfeel, length and purity, with a cascade of tangerine, nectarine and white peach fruit flavors flowing beautifully, lined with orange blossom, dried quince and bitter citrus oil notes. Focused and approachable now, this holds waves of fruit in reserve, and should only stretch out further with cellaring. Sémillon. Drink now through 2022.—J.M.
La Rioja Alta Rioja 890 Gran Reserva 2001
93 points | $160 | 4,150 cases made | Red Firm and polished, this red is a lovely example of the traditional style, with tea, tobacco and sanguine notes framing a core of dried cherry, orange peel and spice. Fresh, focused and long. Drink now through 2021.—T.M.
Sadie Family Soldaat Piekenierskloof 2013
93 points | $65 | 50 cases imported | Red Distinctive, with a bright shiso leaf note leading the way for silky cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. Long, lacy tannins carry the finish, where iron and incense accents pervade. The lovely, fine acidity stretches this out, with the shiso leaf detail echoing. Grenache. Drink now through 2023.—J.M.
Bodegas Palacio Rioja Cosme Palacio Reserva 2010
92 points | $25 | 1,000 cases imported | Red This polished red is subtle and harmonious, with reticent flavors of plum, tobacco, anise and mineral. Well-integrated tannins and acidity lend this an unobtrusive structure. Not a showboat, but complete and long. Drink now through 2022.—T.M.
Sadie Family Pofadder Swartland 2013
92 points | $59 | 60 cases imported | Red
Bodegas Tobía
Features a core of alluring raspberry and plum coulis flavors, lined with singed vanilla, cinnamon and anise notes before giving way to a silky, rooibos tea–infused finish. Very stylish. Cinsault. Drink now through 2017.—J.M.
Rioja Óscar Tobía Reserva 2010
91 points | $25 | 2,200 cases imported | Red This polished red shows focused flavors of black cherry, cranberry, licorice and mineral that are juicy and lively, with crisp, orange peel acidity and fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2020.—T.M.
Sadie Family Treinspoor Swartland 2013
91 points | $55 | 60 cases imported | Red
Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco
Slightly chunky in feel, with plum, black cherry and blood orange notes melding with flecks of pepper and alder. Dusty grip holds the finish. Should soften and stretch out a touch with modest cellaring. An intriguing wine. Tinta Barocca. Drink now through 2017.—J.M.
Rioja Selección de Familia Crianza 2010
90 points | $21 | 75,000 cases made | Red This plush red delivers plum and blackberry flavors, ripe and sweet, with vanilla and toasty notes. The light, firm tannins and juicy acidity keep this lively. Fruit-forward yet balanced, in the modern style. Drink now through 2019.—T.M.
SPAIN
Bodegas El Nido Jumilla La Viña de Corteo 2010
94 points | $125 | 50 cases imported | Red Alluring aromas of expresso and cocoa lead to rich flavors of currant, anise, cola and toast. The firm tannins are well-integrated, and there’s enough acidity to keep this focused. A modern style, showing polish, depth and balance. Drink now through 2025.—T.M.
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Nov. 12, 2014
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HOT WINES
These are the most exciting discoveries from our editors’ most recent tastings, published exclusively in Wine Spectator Insider. They are high-scoring wines from around the world that may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking out.
Evening Land
Pruett
Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Seven Springs Vineyard La Source 2012
Syrah Sierra Foothills Championship Cuvée 2012
96 points | $100 | 50 cases made | Red
98 points | $70 | 1,176 cases made | Red
An amazing wine that exhibits a tight, dense core of black licorice, blackberry, mocha, espresso, cedar and road tar, taking in a wide range of flavors and delivering them in a tightly focused package. Drink now through 2028. From California.—J.L.
Seductive, silky and supple, layering its gorgeous currant, plum, blueberry and spice flavors on a lithe frame, coming together harmoniously on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2022. From Oregon.—H.S.
Viña Mambrilla
Evening Land
Ribera del Duero Alidis VS 2009
Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Seven Springs Vineyard 2012
95 points | $125 | 75 cases imported | Red
96 points | $50 | 3,149 cases made | Red Sleek and silky, brimming with raspberry, blackberry, pear and licorice flavors that come together seamlessly on the long, polished finish. This has depth and presence. Drink now through 2022. From Oregon.—H.S.
This sculpted red is firm and polished, balancing fruit and savory flavors on a solid structure. Black raspberry, espresso, anise, tar and mineral notes mingle pleasantly, lingering on the long finish. Powerful and harmonious. Drink now through 2029. From Spain.—T.M.
Bodegas Muga
E. Guigal
Rioja Aro 2010
Condrieu La Doriane 2013
96 points | $197 | 75 cases imported | Red
94 points | $150 | 90 cases imported | White
Dark, dense and deep, this powerful red is rich on the palate, with muscular tannins supporting cassis, licorice, espresso and mineral flavors. Harmonious and balanced, presenting a long finish that turns spicy and floral. Best from 2017 through 2030. From Spain.—T.M.
Offers a flattering, corpulent feel, with pear, creamed peach and papaya notes that glide along, lined with macadamia nut, bitter almond and green fig details. A flash of salted butter gives the showy finish good contrast. Very long, exhibiting gorgeous mouthfeel. Drink now through 2018. From France.—J.M.
WINE SPECTATOR’S TASTERS The Most Experienced Team of Wine Journalists in the World Wine Spectator’s tasting staff includes 16 tasters and tasting coordinators in two offices. They work together to review nearly 20,000 wines each year, more than any other publication. Together, our nine senior tasters count more than 140 years of tasting experience. We always taste wine blind, in our offices in Napa and New York. This is your guarantee that our reviews are fair and objective, and that a wine’s reputation or price does not influence its score. Each editor specializes in the wines of specific regions; initials appended to the review identify the taster of each wine. We score wines using the 100-point scale (see green box).
Thomas Matthews Executive editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat: Spain
James Laube Senior editor, Napa Joined Wine Spectator in 1981. Tasting beat: California
Alison Napjus Senior editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in 2000. Tasting beat: Alsace, Beaujolais, Champagne, Italy
Harvey Steiman Editor at large, San Francisco Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. Tasting beat: Australia, Oregon, Washington Kim Marcus Managing editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat: Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal
Wine Spectator Insider Nov. 12, 2014
Bruce Sanderson Tasting director, New York Joined Wine Spectator in 1993. Tasting beat: Burgundy, Italy James Molesworth Senior editor, New York Joined Wine Spectator in 1997. Tasting beat: Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, South Africa MaryAnn Worobiec Senior editor, Napa Joined Wine Spectator in 1997. Tasting beat: California, New Zealand
Wine Spectator’s 100-Point Scale 95–100 Classic 90–94 Outstanding 85–89 Very good 80–84 Good 75–79 Mediocre 50–74 Not recommended
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Tim Fish Senior editor, Napa Joined Wine Spectator in 2001. Tasting beat: California
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