TASTING REPORT: A VINTAGE OF A LIFETIME FOR 2010 BRUNELLO December 1st, 2014
The year 2010 for Brunello di Montalcino is the greatest modern vintage of Italy’s most famous red wine region. Never have the wines been so profound in quality, character, and quantity from the best hillside vineyards of Montalcino. They represent a new paradigm for Tuscany’s unique sangiovese-based red. “The 2010 vintage represents a new point for Brunello di Montalcino,” admits Vincenzo Abbruzzese, the owner of Valdicava, one of the great Brunello producers. His 2010 Brunello is a nearly perfect wine, 99 points, and this isn’t even the legendary single vineyard Brunello, Madonna del Piano Riserva. “The wines have a unique style that make them incredibly attractive when young but also structured and beautiful for aging. They will be the new standard in quality to judge all Brunello.” I couldn’t agree more. I tasted slightly more than 100 2010 Brunellos in a blind tasting in Tuscany a few months ago and I was amazed by the beauty, balance and intensity of the wines. They showed such energy and intensity yet were rich and deep on the palate. And most have a fascinating savory, almost salty character that makes them succulent and incredibly satisfying to taste. They are incredibly drinkable yet structured at the same time – a true sign of great wine. This is why I continually wrote "drink or hold" in tasting notes, meaning you can enjoy them now but they will age gracefully and improve for decades ahead. The 2010 Brunellos will not be legally released on the market for sale until January 2015. So I will be rating more Brunellos during the first week of January in Tuscany. However, this doesn't mean that you shouldn't buy some 2010 Brunellos now, especially if you love great Italian wines and superb Brunello. This is not a vintage to miss. It is as significant as the legendary 1997 vintage, not only for the great quality of the Brunellos made but for its historical greatness. "It really is a historical year that show such amazing character and intensity," says Giacomo Neri, the owner of Casanova di Neri, one of the legendary Brunello producers in modern times. "It's the best vintage I have experience in my winemaking career and I started making wine in the early 1980s." Vintages like this don't come along very often. As I wrote, 1997 is a year that had such unique greatness of the 2010. However, the viticulture and winemaking of today can't be compared to two decades ago. The Brunellos of today are superior, especially in a great year like 2010. Moreover, there are many more producers, both large and small, that are making superb quality wines. In fact, I rated about half of the slightly more than 100 wines in the tasting 95 points or more. No less than six were rated 100 points. “The wines are right on the sweet spot in 2010,” says Luigi Fabbro, owner of the small and great winery of San Polino. “The wines have the tannins, the acidity and the alcohol for a great vintage. I compare them to 2001 or 2006, but it is better.” Indeed, it's this sweet spot that Fabbro speaks about that makes the 2010 Brunellos so enticing, even seductive. They are so fresh, complex and savory that they make you want to drink them. It must be from the exceptionally long grape growing season, as Fabbro pointed out in his video. He said that June was warm and beautiful but then it was slightly variable in July with storms and August was cool but sunny. September was gorgeous. In the end, the grapes were very ripe yet fresh and clean. The 2010 vintage made great wines. There is no doubt about it. This is why you have to buy some. "There are such major expectations for Brunello 2010 in the world market," admitted Lamberto Frescobaldi, who makes both Luce and Castel Giocondo Brunellos. "Everyone is going to want to buy some Brunello 2010."