Beatniks Subculture. Research Journal by Sophie Trunova

Sofiia Trunova

BEATNIKS Shaw M.(1953)

N TS TE

CONTENTS

ENTS CON NT

NTENTS C O C O

CON T E N

INTRODUCTION 4 INITIAL RESEARCH 6 RESEARCH DEVELOPMENT 16 WORKSHOP 22 PRE-PRODUCTION 24 PRODUCTION 28 POST PRODUCTION 31 THREE STYLED LOOKS 34 VISUAL COMMENTORY 38 CRITICAL REFLECTION 40 BIBLIOGRAPHY 42

Research Journal

Lecture Subcultures from 1950s/60s

OGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUE

On afternoon class students have made our list of subculture. I was surprised, that I do not know many of them. So I have something to work on. After that, in small groups, we had to pick one of the listed subcultures and make a mind map. We cut out images that can represent a subculture, that we have chosen.

RS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS V

OGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUERS VOGUE

I am so happy and excited to start working on my very first project on the Fashion Styling&Production course. This Friday our lecturers have explained all the important parts of the unit. First subcultures, that we have started to study are Teddy Boys, Mod and Rockers. The topic «Subcultures» is important in the fashion industry, because it serves as an inspiration for designers and stylists. I am familiar only with a visual aspect of some subcultures, but not with an actual meaning that is behind the clothes. I am glad to have an opportunity to learn the important part of different subcultures.

(own photography)

What is a subculture? The meaning of subculture is a deviation from the generally accepted norm of order. It is a resistance, that people have shown through the style.

I have research d i v e r s e subcultures for the better understanding of my topic. I was interested in types of subcultures that are more widespread and which ones are rare. I have looked through photos from an archive and the modern ones.

I-D. Search page . sub.culture

Pearson L. (2015).

Dazed. Search Page. Subcultures.

Ted Polhemus (2010). Street Style. New Edition. London: PYMCA.Cover pages.

Polhemus T. (2010). Cover page

I started to think about a subculture, that I will choose for my project on the next day of Introduction to Fashion Styling and Production lecture. I began my research with books about street style and subcultures in the LCF library. I want to have a better understanding of all existing types of subcultures because by the help of additional resources I can open for myself new subcultures that I did not know before.

On first pages of the book Ted Polhemus ÂŤStreet StyleÂť, I have found a mindmap of subcultures from the 1940s till 2000s. This image gave me an idea to create my own mind map of the subculture, that I will choose, so I can pick all key moments of it that can help me to focus on further research.

Subculture Choice

Polhemus T. (2010).Page 2

Botti. (1960

50 different subcultures are presented in this book. I have looked through all of them. Specifically, one subculture interested me: Beats and Beatniks. I have never ever heard about them before. After a quick search about their history and style, I have understood that it would be interesting to explore this subculture by choosing it for my project. Also, I can say that the visual look of beats is similar to mine. While people from other subcultures reacted more aggressively and energetically to the problems of interest to them, the Beat generation behaved quite the opposite. The fact that beatniks differ from other subcultures in their detachment from the outside world, attracted my special attention. As I have chosen the subculture that inspired me, I will start a deep research of it.

Research From different researches, I have understood that beatniks are an American subculture, but their look and outfits remind me of a style of French people. I have travelled to Paris and I have seen images in the internet and books, where the stereotyped french outfit consist of a beret, striped top, black trousers with the packing of cigarettes in the pocket. Based on this information that I have known before, I was a bit confused. So one question came to my mind: Where did «Beat Style» come from?

Bettman (1959)

As Ted Polhemus said in his book «Street Style»: «Perhaps the answer lies not in Greenwich Village, but in Paris, on the Left Bank. And though Paris seems a long way from New York, let us bear in mind that from the late forties those jazz musicians whom the Beats revered were regularly travelling to Paris to perform. On one such trip Miles Davis met and fell in love with Juliette Greco. Looking at the photograph which appears on the cover of Davis’s autobiography in which he is dressed completely black - one cannot help but imagine him with Greco. Broadening the picture to take in more traditional French garments like the beret and the striped Breton shirt one could hypothesize that the core of what became known as «Beat Style» was actually Left-Bank style as seen through the dark shades of American jazz musicians.»(Polhemus 2010, p.31), we can understand that Parisian aesthetics had an impact on the style of beatniks.

Polhemus T. (2010). Cover

Alan Bisbort (2010). Beatniks. A Guide to an American Subculture. Cover.

Beatniks: A an American

Guide to Subculture

I have broadened my knowledge about beatnik’s history, lifestyle, beliefs and style by reading this book. The quote of the author can perfectly describe this subculture: « To be Beat, then, or to be a beatnik, is to be heroically outside the mainstream of contemporary society». (Bisbort 2010, p.27) The understanding in society of this subculture was quite unique. Beatnik was described as inaccessible cool and incomprehensible intellectual. ( Bisbort 2010 ) Ochs, M. (1965)

Jack Kerouac’s Interview What is the «Beat Generation»? «Jack Kerouac interviewed on Canadian TV. Jack was an American novelist and poet. He is considered a literary iconoclast and, alongside William S. Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg, a pioneer of the Beat Generation.»(Sam Network, 2014, 1st paragraph) After watching this interview with a founder of the Beat subculture I have known about his personal feelings and thoughts of this generation. TV host has discussed the meaning of the Beatniks’ name. This has caught my special attention because different sources described different senses of it. Jack Kerouac said the name is not important, but just the people behind this expression are significant. Also, I have mentioned an interesting fact. Jack was smoking while interviewing and he did not care about it. This is a characteristic feature of the beat generation. I have understood it after research of photos, where beatniks were depicted.

Quite possible that I will use this feature for the poses of my three styled looks as it is a common thing for beats subculture.

Fry D. (2018)

Beats

Subculture

All people who were involved in this subculture are creative personalities: poets, playwrights, painters, novelists and musicians. (Bisbort.2010). The important trio, who has started this subculture are writers Jack Kerouac, Alain Ginsberg, William Burrow. With their works, they spread the ideas of freedom and protest against the society of that time. This idea of rebellion for many young people was much more interesting than the monotonous life of an ordinary American.

Beatniks were followers of the Beat Generation - influential poets and authors through the late 1940s to the early ‘60s. Jack Kerouac came up with the «beat generation» concept the underground, anticonformist youth gathering in New York that he was a part of. (Kaitlyn. 2010, 1st paragraph, 2nd sentence)

Research Advenc. (2016).

Beatniks were intellectual rebels. The centre of beatniks’ culture was Washington Square «Greenwich Village» one of the coffee bars and the jazz clubs. Dark clothing was the trademark of the beatniks.(The ultimate fashion history. 2016) The beatniks did not suit the existing order of life, and they decided to create their own. They rejected established moral values and were not interested in politics and in every way ignored behavioural canons imposed by society. Young people who hated the wretchedness of the townsfolk, full of romantic illusions and hopes, cultural rebels - beatniks created a whole direction of alternative art.

The emergence of the term «beatniks» The main features of the beat movement include active rejection of American foreign policy, American public opinion and lifestyle (the notorious “American Dream”); sexual rebellion, the cult of music; loyal attitude to drugs. Some of these features we find in other subcultures, except, perhaps, one: indifference to appearance, lack of style as such. The typical look of a beatnik: leather sandals, beard, jeans, berets, black high-necked sweaters, dark glasses, spacious blouses, straight loose hair. The “broken generation” in the late 60s smoothly flowed into the hippie movement ( K a i t l y n . 2 0 1 0 )

Shaw, M. (1953)

How did the beatniks dress up? After my research, I have understood about what are the main elements of beatnik’s style. A common image of a beatnik is a dark figure in dark, impenetrable glasses with a beret on his head. A black or horizontal striped turtleneck and a white t-shirt without a pattern were very popular. The girls wore dark leggings, long skirts, tights, sweaters, capris. The guys put on baggy pants and let go of the goatee. Beat’ shoes are: sandals, sneakers, leather boots. Often you could see a beatnik with a bongo as a manifestation of support for African culture.

The term «beatniks» appeared randomly. The columnist Gerb Kain wrote in one of the articles about a rather strange youth party and used the word “beat” with the Russian suffix “-nik” from the name of the Soviet “Sputnik-1”, which was launched in 1957. The author referred to the fact that information about “Sputnik” was then at the hearing, and the word itself was born in his head. ( E n c k . 2 0 0 0 )

Mind Map NEW YORK EMPHASIZED INTELLECT ARTISTS TOTAL BLACK STYLE WRITERS DARK SUNGLASSE JACK KEROUAC ANTI-MATERIALIST

Mind map illustrates my associations about Beatniks subcultures. I have gathered my initial ideas, with which I will work further.

BOOKS

BEATNIKS

GREW OUT OF A LITERATE CULTURE FREE THINKING POET 1940-1960s JAZZ AURA OF COOL BERETS BOHEMIAN LIFESTYLE COFFEEHOUSES ALLEN GINSBERG STRIPED TOPS

Sellerio (1965)

Keystone. (1969)

Wikisource.( no date )

Lindbergh, P. (1997)

MOODBOARD

In moodboard, I have shown that the beatniks did not call anyone to smash the existing order. They had a different approach: getting away from reality is the cure for all the problems. Just look at people, forget about work and commitments, live in order to live.

Beatnik’s attitude was so calm and relaxed. This subculture was working on their verses, smoking cigarettes, drinking coffee and enjoyed the way they were living.

Advenc.(2016) Eegah.(2013)

Ochs.1965)

Poster, M. (1960) Bild, U. (1957)

Keystone. (1966)

IDEA

She is isolated from the world’s problems and focused on her poetry. I will interpret this subculture as «Romantic Beatnik». My heroine is a creative person, who is fragile and prone to romanticism and imbued with romance. She is a poetess, but at the same time, she can be an inspirational muse for other writers.

For my inspirational collage and illustration, I have gathered together all elements that are associated with beatnik subculture:berets, total black outfit, books, striped tops, cigarettes and dark sunglasses.

(own photography)

Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images, fig.1(1970) (own photography)

n 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatnik

Noemi.(2017)

Guitard, G. (2015)

Habans, P. (1965)

I have researched the style of beatniks at that time when this subculture has appeared for further work with my final outfits.

Name, B. (1965)

Glenn, B. (1965)

T h e embodiment of the Beatnik influence style icons has to be Francoise Hardy, Audrey Hepburn, Edie Sedwick and Brigitte Bardot in the early 1960â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Nanda, R. (1956)

Old Pics Archive.(1956)

Shaw M.(1953)

s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in

s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60

60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks in 60s Beatniks i

rn Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks

FameFlynet.(2016)

Anderson.(2018)

Daily Mail.(2013)

JOSEFINA LĂ&#x2030;NIZ. (2017)

Griffin.(2012)

Furthermore, I have discovered modern fashion icons, who are inspired by the style of beatniks. Model Kate Moss and Vogue editor Alexa Chung are the perfect examples of how beatniks would look in the 21st century.

Geri.(2015)

Agnes.(2014)

Dawson Hoff.(2013)

niks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern

Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beat

Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Modern Beatniks Mode

Beatniks in editorials

The atmosphere of fashion editorials that are inspired by beatnikâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style, is full of vintage mood. There is a sensation of mystery. We can see that heroines are in their own world. The styling is based on black colour, striped clothes and headdresses. Vasnier H.(2012)

Lagerfeld.(2010)

Belaart.(2010)

18 Beatty.(2018)

Anciano.(2017)

Berthelot.(2017)

Street Style

As nowadays street style influences trends and it is one of the most important parts of the fashion industry, I have included it in my research. I have found out how people interpret beatnik style in their own personal way. They use all the key elements and combine it with colourful accessories and modern silhouettes.

Santaella.(2018)

Vogue Australia.(2017)

Musee Yves Saint Laurent (no date)

B e a t n i k s

Designers and brands take their inspiration from different sources. One if it is the «subcultures». At this point, I started to research brand’s collections, which were created in a spirit of beatnik’s style.

a s i n s p i r a t i o n

Archives Dior A/W1960

«He went on to create five more collections for Dior, culminating in the 1960 Beatnik, which featured turtlenecks and black leather jackets.» (Freeman. (2008), 17th paragraph, 2nd sentence)

f o r d e s i g n e r s

The very first one is Dior’s A/W 1960 collection created by Saint Laurent: «Saint Laurent also sought inspiration in the clothing people were wearing in the street, which would also bring him his first setback. His 1960 collection was influenced by the beatnik movement and made use of leather and dark colours.» (Musee Yves Saint Laurent (no date), 1st paragraph)

Vogue Paris Original.(1959)

Yves Saint Laurent inspired from beatnik’s style for his 1960 A/W collection. The designer has interpreted it in his own way: more elegant and feminine as the typical Dior’s aesthetics. Musee Yves Saint Laurent (no date)

M a r c

S a i n t

b y M a r c

L a u r e n t

J a c o b s

F a l l

2 0 1 4

2 0 0 8

r e a d y

t o

Vogue Runway.Fig.1 (2008)

w e a r

Vogue Runway. Fig.2(2014)

C h r i s t i a n

Throughout the years’ designers are inspired by the casual extravagance of beatnik’s style. Marc Jacobs in 2008 has added more oversize silhouette for his collection. For Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane has chosen to add leather elements. Maria Grazia Chiuri has shown the typical french beatnik style but also has added decorative e l e m e n t s and prints. In these collections, we can find key elements of beatnik’ subculture such as berets, striped tops, black turtlenecks and black tights with boots.

D i o r

S p r i n g

A u t u m n

2 0 1 1 8

W i n t e r

r e a d y

2 0 1 7 / 1 8 Vogue Runway. Fig.3 (2017)

t o

Vogue Runway. Fig.4 (2017)

w e a r

Workshop

Layering Our workshop with a topic ÂŤLayeringÂť gave me an idea for my third outfit, where I have layered striped turtleneck with a white dress and black blazer. The style of my chosen subculture is more simple and minimal, that is why I have experiment only with one the three styled outfits. I can say, that I really enjoyed playing with shapes and layers while creating a look for Punk subculture. It opens your mind in a different way and broadens your imagination and representation of one of the subcultures.

Weaser, G. (1964)

Bieleck, S. (1964)

Pre-Production

Shops Visit

I have started to think about my three styled looks after the research of my chosen subculture. As my style is a bit similar to the aesthetic of beatnik’s style, I will use some clothes from my wardrobe. Also, I went to shops for finding additional clothes and accessories that will supplement my final outfits. I was looking for not only black clothes and striped tops but fore pieces that can look unique and represent my idea of «Romantic Beatnik»

Deligio.(1970)

Reporters.(1963)

Outfit variants

Daran.(1965)

Trunova, S. Fig. 1 (2018)

Trunova, S. Fig. 2 (2018)

Trunova, S. Fig. 3 (2018)

Trunova, S. Fig. 4 (2018)

Furthermore, I have found one useful app, where you can create outfits by picking up different elements of wardrobe and do collages of them. I have shown variants of the elegant and romantic representative of Beatnik subculture. Mostly beatniks were wearing total black outfits. In my case I will add particular details, that will look modern and vintage at the same time.

Daran.(1965)

Casting My acquaintance Mari has reminded me of a modern looking F r a n c o i s e Hardy, who is one of the famous stylish icons of beatnik subculture. At the time Mari works as model for some projects and she has an experience in posing. I have contacted her and she will be my model for the photoshoot. Rasskazova.(2018)

Keystone. (1966) Blackman, V. (1966)

Production

Make Up

Location

For the makeup and hairstyle I have inspired from Francoiseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hardy look. Slightly messy hair and black eyeliner with a black pencil for eyes. The location is a bookshop because beatniks were literature movement and I have seen original photos of beatniks with books while researching this subculture.

Silver Screen Collection. (1967)

Marie. J.

(1968)

Lucy Jones.(2018)

Details

Hulton-Deutsch Collection.(1966)

I have focused on the black colour as beatniks mostly were wearing it. My idea is «Romantic Beatnik». For a better demonstration of this concept, I have chosen dresses for all three styled look. I have found a dress with an embroidery and a beret in the same colour as it for the first look. The second outfit consists of a dress with striped fabric and striped socks. I have chosen these details, because of one of the key elements of beatnik’s wardrobe is striped top. Also, you can see the necklace in the shape of the Eiffel tower because Paris had an important role in the history of this subculture. For the last look, I have added elegance with a help of details: kitten heels, pearl buttons, black sunglasses and gold&pearl earrings. This outfit contains layering because I have inspired from one of the workshops and interpret it in my own way, so it suits perfectly for my chosen subculture.

Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images, fig.2(1970)

Post-Production

Photoshoot

For my three styled looks, I have chosen coloured photos for showing all the colours and prints that I have used for creating the image of «Romantic Beatnik». If I would do the editorial for a magazine, I would choose all black&white photos, because it perfectly demonstrates the vintage atmosphere and energy of beatnik’s lifestyle.

Three styled looks

Team Photography&Styling: Sofiia Trunova Make up&Model: Mari Rasskazova Clothing Credits Beret: H&M Turtleneck:Cos Dress: Karen Millen Tights: Topshop Shoes: Massimo Dutti Bracelet: Pandora

Team Photography&Styling: Sofiia Trunova Make up&Model: Mari Rasskazova Clothing Credits Beret: Topshop Necklace:&otherstories Dress&Socks: Cos Shoes: Mango

Team Photography&Styling: Sofiia Trunova Make up&Model: Mari Rasskazova Clothing Credits Sunglasses: Neon Sheep Earrings: Mango Turtleneck: &otherstories Dress: Zara Blazer: H&M Tights: Calzedonia Shoes: Zara

Visual Commentary

Every generation has its subcultures. It is such associations of people that do not contradict the values of traditional culture, but complement it. Subculture may differ from the dominant culture by behavior, style, culture language etc. The important role of the subculture is that it allows self-development and self-realization to its participants. As well as the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. «The word ‘subculture’ is loaded down with mystery. It suggests secrecy and an Underworld. It also invokes the larger and no less difficult concept ‘culture’. So it is with the idea of culture that we should begin» (Hebdige.1979, p.4). The Beat generation, that I chose for my project, began with a sartorial nonchalance. They select another type of lifestyle and avoid the world, where people deify the style. As Bisbort writes: «Indeed, for many they were saviours, providing a parallel and vastly more appealing culture and a way of the Cold War conformity and consumerism»( Bisbort, 2010, Preface), we can understand that «Beatniks» differed from other subcultures in their direction to complete detachment from the outside world. They were completely immersed in books, worked on their own poetry, listened to jazz. The tradition of gathering in coffee shops or clubs and reading their works of literature to the music has acquired particular importance for the creative people of that era. To understand this subculture we can read the quotation of the beatniks’ creator Jack Kerouac definition: «Members of the generation, who supposedly as a result of disillusionment stemming from the Cold War, espouse mystical detachment and relaxation of social tension.» (Bisbort, 2010, Chapter One). One of the beatnik icons in the 60s was actress Audrey Hepburn. She was the protagonist of the film «Funny Face», that presented beatnik subculture. My chosen image of Audrey visually communicates the emphasis of the intellect. Her style is simple, but at the same time, it demonstrates an understated elegance. The way she sits barefoot on the floor with a straight back demonstrates her intellectual interest. In this peaceful atmosphere, that indicated individual freedom and casual extravagance, we can see beatnik’s special lifestyle, that rejected the urban civilization and the comfort of the consumer society. This photo shows that the only thing that the heroine is in a need is to sit in the comfort pose and enjoy a book with a cup of tea. For this reason, all these elements are identified.

Audrey Hepburn Reading by Mark Shaw (1953)

Today this fashion has not made major changes. On the contrary, the alterations are minimal with a keeping the original representation of this subculture. For example, comparing the style of modern beatnik inspired Alexa Chung and Audrey Hepburn, we can admit a similarity of a silhouette and use of colours, but since the time it is possible to notice a few changes. Logomania and a new type of fabrics have appeared in a modern representation of beatnik look. The same changes we can observe in other elements of the fashion industry like editorial «Beatnik» for «Schön!» magazine and Dior’s runway shows AW 2017/18 and SS 2018. It can be said it is not possible to reinterpret beatnik with the use of a large number of clothes, colours and details, because it is not going to be a beatnik anymore.

Critical Reflection

My first project I found interesting, pleasing and stimulating to achieve the desired result. I chose beatniks for my project because I was naturally drawn to this subculture by reason of preferred aesthetics. I find it interesting as it relates to my personal style. At the same time choosing this subculture was more challenging for me, because I have never ever heard any information about beatniks, so that is mean that I need to spend more time on the primary and secondary research. The first thing that needs to be said is that our technical workshops have changed my perception of fashion. I have understood, that it is possible to create a style with any existing materials for example, such as electrical accessories and cables. Especially our last technical session with a topic «Customization» has helped me to expand my knowledge of styling techniques. I and my group have created a look from a simple white shirt and some details for a gothic subculture. We have demonstrated a personality of our invented character. I did not expect that the final outcome would perfectly indicate our initial ideas. One should note here that collaborative working helped to have more unique ideas, that worked very well. With the help of workshops and masterclasses, I have learned how to speak with the clothes through symbolism. On the other hand, I did not like one of the workshops, where we have used trash bags to make a hip-hop outfit. I felt that the materiality did not relate to my subculture very well and I was not able to translate this industrial material into my chosen subculture – beatniks. Our discussions on the seminars and lectures have helped to develop my own idea about the chosen subculture. In the process of describing my looks and explaining my subculture to other students, because not all of them knew about it, I have understood that I was missing some important facts about beatniks. They asked a specific question about their history, namely why their style is similar to Parisian, and I could not answer. For this reason, I have found a useful resource, a book «Beatniks. A Guide to an American Subculture» by Alan Bisbort that supported my concept. Furthermore, my classmates encouraged my ideas about «Romantic Beatniks», so I have continued my further research without any doubts. The only problem that I faced was bad weather conditions on the scheduled shooting day. I have planned to take photos of my three styled looks outside on Sunday, but rain has changed my plans. Fortunately, my model was able to shoot on the next day. As a result, everything went well and I am satisfied with the final result. As the weather is unpredictable, I will take a lesson for future projects and I will think in advance about Plan B for the location. To draw the conclusion, one can say that from the project I have learned how to analyse images and reinterpret ideas in a modern way. I have gained a knowledge about the relationship between subcultures and fashion styling.

Bibliography

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