HISTORY OF FASHION
JOHN SINGER SARGENT
1880’s John Singer Sargent was an American artist, who was considered the ‘leading portrait painter’ of his generation’. His most popular and controversial work was unveiled on display in Paris in 1884. This piece of work is well known as ‘The Portrait of Madame X’ but it became known for its negative reaction which prompted his move to London. The painting caused controversy due to the way it was portrayed not just by the painting itself but the way the viewers portrayed it. The version of the portrait shown a plunging neckline, white powdered skin as it featured an off the shoulder strap dress, which was seen to give out a more daring and sensual effect.
1910
In the 1900’s Paul Poiret became known as ‘The king of fashion’. In 1910, he created the idea of a much looser type of dress along with the influence of Mariano Fortuny, they developed ways of pleating silk so that it hung elegantly. Poiret then created the garment called ‘The lampshade dress’ mainly because it started with an over blouse and a hoop that finished around the waist causing it to have that lampshade shape to it.
These types of dresses became popular from the year 1910 to around the year 1940.
The style of the dress was called ‘Delphos’ after the Greek city. Known to be worn for any evening occasion or grand adventure.
1950 From the development since the design and popularity of the lampshade dress. Going into the 1950’s onwards, especially in womenswear, outfits where based and focused around the waist line. The first few years after the war is regarded by historians as the years of transition, a period of years that would settle on a change in fashion that would last for a period of 8 to 10 years. For example: Straight hip hugging jackets.
In Paris, Dior launched a ‘Vertical Line’ sheath dress. This was where the narrow straightness of the garment was emphasised by fine pleating or tucking of the garment itself.
The Effect these era’s have on modern day trends and catwalks… From this style of dress you can see the influence of the lampshade dress, as its material drops from the shoulders then becomes fitted at the waist to then drop again to the floor.
From this style of garment you can see the influences from both James Singer Sargent's’ Portrait and also the 1950’s Dior verticle Line. From a slightly plunged neckline to the fitted waist, and most of all the satin material like worn by Madame X herself.
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label SS15
‌ The Waist Trainer Although the waist trainer isn’t a garment that is to be worn as part of an outfit or seen on the catwalk, but it is one of the most popular things out since 2014. The waist trainer gives people the opportunity to shrink or shape their waist so that they have the figure they want and are able to wear particular garments and be comfortable in them. Over the years, I have noticed that each new trend always focuses on a part of the body and for years the majority has been focused on the waist. Especially the years I have spoken about previously and most definitely the 1950’s from the big belts fitted round the over coats to the figure hugging skirts.
Recently a lot of new trends have focused on the Bardot style tops and dresses. I have noticed that this seems to look as though it is influenced by the style of the portrait of Madame X and also 1950s style.
SOPHISTICATED HERITAGE
H&M is a Swedish brand founded in 1947, the whole point around the starting of H&M was to create and offer fashionable clothing at affordable and attractive prices. H&M only ever started off as a womenswear store previously named just ‘Hennes’ meaning ‘her’ or ‘hers’ but later became H&M when apparel leader Mauritz Widforss came along and there then became an inclusion of a menswear collection which lead to the famous title, which now stands for ‘Hennes and Mauritz’. In the range shown here that is on sale in H&M you can see the influences of sophisticated heritage straight away. Although there is not much detail, the simplicity of the garments seem to make each piece stand out more. The brogue type boot, holds the influence of the old fashioned military style leather boot. Also with the trench coat and shirts, they are both smart and sophisticated and have that military style feel to it. H&M’s menswear set there target audience for a range of men between the age of 16-40 as they sell kids wear up to age 15.
Burtons’ is a large UK high street clothing retailer, which is part of the Arcadia group. Around the UK Burtons is known to be sold along side Dorothy Perkins. The burton company was founded in 1904 under the name of ‘The cross tailoring company’. After world war II Burtons became one of the suppliers of demob suits for demobilising servicemen, compromising jackets, trousers, waistcoats shirts and even underwear. This shows up in the range as an influence, and that the brand has always kept within its starting focus. Many of the clothing is military themed, fitted smart and deep, dark neutral colours. Garments and products, such as trench coats, brogues and fitted jackets fit in with the whole Sophisticated Heritage theme. Burtons menswear have a target audience of men between the age of 25-40.
Topman is a part of counterpart of Topshop that caters exclusively to men's clothing. Topman’s products are mostly fashionable, covering everything from casual garments to accessories and suits. Topman is very UK and US Style based with its clothing. Here is part of a range that is being currently sold online and in stores as of 2015. Its signature style is very similar to the style of sophisticated heritage, the trousers are smart and a neutral colour which keeps it simple. Also when relating to military style, the brogues and doc martin boots bring that as they have been popular since each world war. The 3 piece suit, has a Burberry look to it, giving it that military aspect, as that is when Burberry started and soon became popular. Topshop have a target audience set for the ages of 18-24.
Punk rock to Post Punk was a big thing from the 1970’s into the 1980s. When it came to fashion the leather jacket was definitely the most popular piece of clothing to be purchased. From the 1970’s onwards, at the beginning of this trend the jacket was worn mostly for either fashionable or protective reasons, a way of projecting a potentially intimidating appearance.
POLITICSIt wasn’t until the late 70s' punk explosion in Britain that pushed the American movement in a more political direction. Over the years from the 70s onwards, bands seemed to have left a long lasting impression on politics after becoming increasingly active in the subject whilst popular and even after popularity by releasing music that supports political causes, whether it’s the smallest political issue to the largest.
1970’s
ECONOMICS-
SOCIAL-
TECHNOLOGY-
LEGAL-
ENVIRONMENTAL-
In the 1970s there was the not very well known ‘Gas/Energy and oil crisis’ that took place. It was a period in which many of the major industrial companies such as America, Japan, Australia, etc… were affected.
Punk subculture was a large part of the 1970s, it was known as Loud and aggressive. This subculture submerged in the UK, America and Australia. People who lead this life socialised in a way through fashion and music. Going to see a band perform became one of the most popular things to do. Although punks also became popular for causing public riots and controversy many managed there time around music and fashion alone.
The 1970s is famously known for its lead up to the video game era. Shortly after a game called ‘Pong’ entered the arcades, from the hard work done in the 1960s, the year 1972 saw the release of the first video game console that allowed you to play several games from the comfort of your own home.
In the 1970s many parts of the united states started to abolish state laws and other local regulations that banned to possession or sale of cannabis.
In the 1970s, divorce rates increased, leading to more women working outside the home.
1950’s POLITICSDwight D Eisenhower became the first professional soldier to become president. His leadership of the successful D day invasion during world war II turned him into a national hero.
ECONOMICSInflation was an important issue during these years, as inflationary conditions swept through the country (USA). The first followed at the end of the world war and the second after the Korean war. This lead to a significant change between the GNP and the money supply.
SOCIAL-
TECHNOLOGY-
Rock and roll became famous in the 1950s, this kind of music was popular, as it reflected the mood that post war America was in at the time. Firstly this type of music did not appeal to teenagers and they found it boring and unexciting.
The first ever credit card was introduced. At the beginning of the 20th century everyone had to pay with cash.
LEGAL-
ENVIRONMENTAL-
The 1950s didn’t see much change or progress in the area of civil rights. However in 1950 itself, Hazel scott became the first black performer to have her own network musical variety show.
The wildlife conservation act provides the information that relates to the conservation and legal protection of flora and fauna. Fauna is something that is rare or more likely to become extinct.
Compare & Contrast Both eras created technological products that are still well known and used to this day. The credit card is now one of the most important things that many people own. This has an effect on fashion as it gives people the opportunity to purchase in store as well as online.
Both economical issues that happened throughout both eras caused money issues.
In the 1950s and 1970s politics was a big thing. From the 1950s being in post war mode to the 1970s being very musically involved with politics, with musicians expressing their opinions within their own music.
Both eras where affected in the same way when it came to socialising. Everything seemed to be based around music, from rock n roll starting in 1950 to the whole punk rock style coming back in the 70s.
When it comes to colours and patterns, there is a slight difference especially due to the punk rock trend. When it comes to that they are both dark and bright colours but work well, such as black garments with statement pieces. Whereas the 1950s used a lot of subtle colours and subtle prints but sometimes still used bold colours. Such as bright red dresses, with white polka dots.
In both the 1970s and 1950s, the leather jacket was a statement garment. From the film grease being produced in the 1970s around the time of the grunge punk rock trend, although it is based in the 1950s you can see that a lot of the characters are known by their style of clothing. E.g. the leather jacket.
60’s
60’s
Influences and changes in the world…
90’s
90’s
Influences and changes in the world…
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PRODUCT
RETAIL STORE RIVER ISLAND
RIVER ISLAND
RIVER ISLAND
URBAN OUTFITTERS
RIVER ISLAND
ERA
REASON
1970’s
The fitted shoulders leading to the flared arms are exactly how a lot of dresses where made and worn in the seventies. The big buckled belt adds slight detail and adds a better fit to the dress enhancing the waist which was also done in the 70s.
1970’s
Although the pants are cotton, the colour is similar to the suede that was worn in the seventies. But culottes where a big thing, they where known to be cut before the ankle so that a chunky shoe was worn as extra detail.
1990’s
1990’s
1970’s
This round neck jumper reminds me a lot of the 90s style, many people tended to where big baggy jumpers, with the likes of leggings, or boyfriend jeans. As well as wearing for baggy comfort, it became a famous style.
Boyfriend jeans where big in the 90s and a lot of the 90s style has seemed to come back into fashion. They can be paired with any style of top, from a blouse, to a t shirt. In the 90s they where worn a lot with jumpers or crop tops.
During the 70’s flares where definitely the biggest garment sold and worn throughout the era, from patterned flares to simple one coloured flares. River island have multi versions of these pants, that work well as casual or occasion wear.
PRODUCT
RETAIL STORE TOPSHOP
RIVER ISLAND
ERA 1990’s
REASON Light washed out denim boyfriend jeans, where definitely a huge part of 90s fashion. From the washed out look to the bagginess of them. This style was started by a lot of celebrities. Worn with big jumpers or crop tops.
1990’s
Tartan was huge in the 90’s. Rachel in friends definitely made tartan a big thing by what her character wore on the show friends. Any colour tartan seemed to work in the 90s whether it was in tapered trousers, pleated skirts or shirts.
1990’s
Over sized blazers could be worn and can still be worn with anything. Whether its worn as a jacket or a dress in some cases. The large padded shoulders made the jacket popular in the 90s. They tend to be simple and plain colours so that they stand out more and can be worn with another statement piece, such as shoes or jewellery.
RIVER ISLAND
RIVER ISLAND
1970’s
RIVER ISLAND
1970’s
Suede was huge in the 70’s, suede could be used any type garment. These boots in river island are the exact same style as the ‘go-go’ boot which came about in the 70’s the tassel adds extra detail.
Again suede is used in River islands recent stock, this suede jacket is fully based around the 70’s from the material to the colour to the style of jacket.
This concept board was produced on Photoshop, containing Jeremy Scott's spring summer 2016 collection which is very 1960s inspired. Although the 60s was very full of print and colour I wanted to keep the board simple, so that the garments stand out. I also added the camper van and the daisies to add to the whole ‘flower power’ and ‘love and peace’ phase. This collection was described as a homage to sixties era movies, from abbreviated a line silhouettes to rag gun prints.
For this concept board, I have used the Valentino spring summer 2015 catwalk, to show how it was inspired by the Victorian era, and what is described as ‘Love in its purest form’. I have brought in the flowers in the corner of the board that reflect, the colours and patterns they used for embroidery. I also kept this board simple for the garments to stand out as they have a lot of detail. I have added an image of a Victorian street. The collection jumps from Victorian to modern with specific elements. Throughout the collection, a lot of pieces stand out with refashioned corsets and skirts. Angel wings are very popular throughout the garments, and add a lot of detail.
From my market research I have found that suede is one of the biggest trends at the minute, from tops to trousers to skirts and dresses. Although suede can be made in nearly any colour, I have found that this seasons colours are very deep and nature themed. For example, mustard, khaki and camel. The 70s theme is still very in tact. I have looked over many stores and found that river island is full of this seasons colours and theme. From A-line to flares.
From the rest of my market research I found that as well as suede, fur was coming back into fashion, especially for winter. When doing my research I found that Topshop was a big seller for fur, from fur coats to fur accessories. The fur fashion style came from the 1920s, woman and men where both known to wear big fur coats to cover and protect there outfits. Fur was always worn to occasions. In the 1920s fur usually only came in the colour that the animal was naturally. But now fur can be dyed and bought in so many colours.
High End Catwalk, High street & Mass market fashion‌ When it comes to fashion and firstly comparing high end catwalk to high street there is not much difference in the fashion and that is the main argument of designers. Although big designers tend to sell their clothing starting from hundreds of pounds to thousands, high street brands sell copies for cheaper prices but still at good quality. Although the word copy can be meant as ‘cheap’ high street tend to really take influence more than copy. High street clothing is sold for affordable prices, and has a target audience of all ages. Although now high street is also seen as more comfortable and practical compared to catwalk fashion. A lot of catwalk fashion now is designed for show, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear and not something you would wear in everyday life. Many people who are unable to afford catwalk fashion often relate to the collections as irrelevant. Not many people understand the designer fashion is the beginning point of every piece of fashion clothing, if its not for high end fashion, then high street fashion would have no direction. When it comes to mass marketing fashion, that is when the cheap copies tend to come in. With many mass market fashion companies, it tends to take them a while after a particular style has come into fashion for them to catch up and bring the style into their own stores. Mass marketing is pretty much any company who sells affordable products at a wide variety. For example; Primark. A lot of designers are now beginning to collaborate with high street, making there collections affordable for more people, from Karl Largerfield and H&M to Vera Wang and Kohls.
I chose to focus my work on the palm tree as my chosen object. I mainly focused my work around high street and catwalk, as I found Topshop and River Island very relatable. When looking into catwalk trends and shows, I found Nicole Millers SS15 collection inspiring, especially to go with the colour scheme and designs I preferred. I enjoyed the way she used minimalistic clothing and made it stand out by using bold print. My range would be very summer styled, I love the fact that you can take the palm tree and use it for print and even shape. I find that drop waist skirts can be seen as very similar to the shape of a palm tree if you turn it up side down as it seem to start as a straight shape then drop outwards.
I like the use of the laser cut in garments, and how it adds detail to such a simple piece, I find that it makes the garment more appealing.
AFRICAN CULTURE
AFRICAN CULTURE The Zulu people are an ethnic group of Southern Africa. They are the largest ethnic group. Small numbers live in other places such as Zambia, Zimbabwe etc‌
Jewellery is an important personal accessory. Most jewellery pieces are made out of cow shell.
Women’s traditional clothing is mostly made in Ethiopia, and out of cloth.
African music is associated with many instruments, from drums and gongs, to rattles and bells. Africa use arts and crafts as a way of expression. Whether it is through wood carving, and brass or leather art work.
African cuisine is quite diverse. It is made up of a lot of different traditions, in terms of preparation, techniques and ingredients.
AFRICAN CULTURE ON THE HIGH STREET
The use of African textiles has been increasing over the past 10 years. Africa’s fashion week brings out modern trends with African influences, for buyers to take a look at for what could be popular to their stores. Africa Fashion Week in London is now bigger than ever, with many designers and events displaying the best in the world of African inspired fashion. Since 2011, AFWL has showcased over 300 designers, to nearly 45,000 visitors which include many industry professionals, from buyers to stylists and retailers. This has also become a highlight on the annual fashion calendar due to open to the public events.
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/n ov/28/africa-fashion-development-tradition
SPANISH CULTURE
SPANISH CULTURE
Spanish clothing was and still is known for its elegant style and decoration.
Spain tend to have a lot of important events over the year, giving the public the opportunity to dress up. Such as street festivals.
The mantilla, is a light silk or lace scarf worn over the shoulders. It is usually worn for religious ceremonies or weddings.
Spanish fashion has now modernised but traditional Spanish clothing is still worn for events. One of the most popular garments still used is the mantilla.
A lot of Spanish cuisine comes from roman or Jewish traditions. A few of the most popular Spanish foods are, paella, churros and tapas food.
Spanish music is associated with the likes of traditional flamenco and classical guitar sounds.
SPANISH CULTURE ON THE HIGH STREET
ENGLISH CULTURE
As of 2015, English cuisine now consists of a mixture of culture, but when it comes to traditional English foods, they have dishes such as, stews, pies and broths. Popular chip shop dishes, are fish and chips. Pie and mash is very popular too but mostly in the London area.
British music was and still is a big influence on fashion. From The Beatles, to oasis and one direction now some of the biggest bands over the years in the UK. From copying their particular style, to buying music merchandise.
ENGLISH CULTURE Traditional English fashion style comes across as very sartorial and smart and quite uniform looking. Although UK fashion now consists of any cultural influences and multiple trends.
Afternoon tea, is an ongoing British tradition that can be mostly associated with the wealthy class. For some this can be seen as an occasion which people tend to dress for also. Consisting of smart attire. Celebrating royal events is also a time when many social events take place. The typical English pint of beer is popular now all over the world.
BRITISH CULTURE ON THE HIGH STREET
Cultural Effects on fashion… Different cultures, all have different effects on fashion, from the shape of a garment, to the colour or the pattern. Most of the time, clothing is a way a culture expresses their values, as what people where can be a form of self expression. Many years ago, what particular clothing a culture wore was what separated them from other cultures, yet now multi cultural fashion has become huge, and a lot of inspiration for fashion now comes from all different cultures, although some cultural rules may not apply in another particular culture.
The term culture, doesn’t just relate to a country it relates to religion, languages, and traditions. Many people show their culture through different things, such as… food, music, dance and mostly always the fashion they wear. Fashion is known to be constantly influenced, by the likes of social media and technology but many designers are influenced by photography, historic paintings, drawings and even weather. But mostly technology is a big influence to fashion now especially because of overall developments with machinery. With technology improving more and more, clothing is being produced of a better quality. Fashion is mostly always the first thing on every bodies mind without them even realising, they wake up of a morning and think ‘What shall I wear’ or it may even be the last thing organised of a night before they go to sleep. In many cultures, most fashion preferences are made for women. For example, through some religions, there a rules that a woman should cover particular parts of their body, this is one way some cultures affect fashion due to not purchasing specific trends that they are unable to wear due to their culture. Over periods of time, many cultures have become more daring with how they present themselves and what they wear, but some have stuck to the rules and carry on wearing the garments that they are meant to. There are people who act with their own different cultural role, due to the role that they play. For example, police are set to wear uniforms to signify who they are and what they do. Whatever clothing you wear will more than likely always make people assume you belong to a certain group of people who define themselves through their fashion sense. Clothing will always act as a tool to identify someone.
SECONDARY RESEARCH From secondary research I have found that, people who dress according to their culture, helps with many things; such as maintaining social relationships, to signify any achievements, to show values, and try and put across their outlook. -
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Cultural traditions are big thing when it comes to occasions, especially weddings. Each culture, have different interpretations of wedding gowns. And for some people, although they may prefer the garments that are worn in the culture they live within, they have to wear whatever is from their own personal culture.
Most people dress themselves, according to recent trends and culture trends, to maybe improve or maintain their social status or relationships. Helping them feel comfortable in what they wear and the group of people they associate with. Some signify achievements through cultural outfits, whether it is through a uniform or a one off garment. For example, a police uniform or graduation cap and gown. Also the stars on the shoulders on a police uniform, signifies their role in the police force. A lot of social groups, give out their outlooks on life, by the clothing they wear. For example; ‘Goths and Emo’s’ are known to have a dark outlook on life, where they tend to wear a lot of dark colours, mostly black. Whereas social groups who have more of a hippy outlook on life, tend to wear bright colours, loose clothing and patterns.
- An overview of a 1970 youth cultural movement. This trend was set over multiple cultures, English, American and Australian.
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The ‘traditional’ wedding gown is known to be white, but comes in many different styles, from a mermaid dress and mermaid dress, to an A line or princess dress.
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In other cultures, they are completely different.
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A traditional Chinese wedding gown is known for its bold colour, and antique and artistic embroidery and also the shape from the shoulders to the neck.
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A traditional Indian dress, comes in shades of red, with a saree and a veil. The dress is mostly paired with multiple accessories.
Cultural effects on high street. According to research and the London government, the impact of culture in London is bigger and better than anywhere else in the UK. At least ÂŁ856 million spending by tourists, is due to arts and culture. There are a lot of key themes, that have to be considered, that help benefit the high street when it comes to involving culture. -
Investing in people Creating a sense of place Boosting the economy Raising quality and ambition
Other cultural effects on the fashion retail industry‌
From catwalk trends, to it appearing in high street stores, the fashion industry will always be shaped and influenced by cultures from around the world. From Indian culture passing on the trends of embellishments and embroidery to bold prints. The Egyptian culture giving us fabrics, from coarse to fine textures.
Whereas the Italian culture, adds passion to the fashion industry, being well known for its classiness, elegance and sexiness. With so many cultures influencing designers, people are becoming braver when it comes to buying from high street stores. With so many cultures being involved in designs, everyone is given the chance to wear something different and unique.
From doing secondary research, I found this image which I find very powerful. It compares America to Korea when it comes to fashion, it pin points the fact that two boys from different cultures have been dressed in the exact same outfit, yet are being spoke about in completely opposite ways because although they are wearing the same outfit, their cultures seem to have different thoughts and beliefs. As you can see, the American character is getting judged for his outfit, being referred to as ‘Gay’, whereas the Korean character is being given compliments, being called ‘manly’ and ‘sexy’. Although being gay is a sexuality and is now accepted my the majority of human life, this can sometimes be seen as an insult, and can refer to a man as being feminine. This just shows how different cultures, beliefs and traditions effect fashion, and make each culture different to one another. Although many trends now tend to spread over the world at the same time, a lot of trends only stick with one culture or have little influence on other trends. Although this is going on for years, I find it important that this image is seen by a lot of people, although its saying that what is worn in one country, may not be acceptable to wear in another, I think that this should be the start of people realising that is not always the case. When it comes to beliefs and religions, it is fair that they are respected and their opinions are considered. But although it is just a drawing, the moral of it should really be considered. As you can see by the Korean characters face he is happy from the compliments he has gained due to his outfit, yet the American seems saddened. As we are in modern day I have noticed that less people are starting to care what others wear and are being more comfortable, and I think that it should carry on that way. All trends always have a starting point and for one trend to carry on, people have to prove that the fashion can be worn.
FASHION CULTURE ONLINE MAGAZINE
This magazine includes, everything to do with fashion, from its designers, to their portfolios. It also included editorials, interviews, trends and events and also has its own shop.
SOMA MAGAZINE, FASHION, CULTURE, ART&DESIGN
SOMA magazine, includes over 20 categories, from fashion and design, to music and influences. Including multiple cultural trends. Vogue, is a fashion and life style magazine, and one of the most well known magazines sold world wide. It includes mostly catwalk fashion, giving the information about each designer and the influence for their creations.
Grazia is an Italian women’s magazine. First published in the 1930s, It has been given out fashion information and advice ever since.
Rihanna being Rihanna, is known now not just known for her daring music, but is now known for her sense of style, trend setting and endorsements in fashion. Many now know of Tom ford, but little knew of his once dislike towards the use of social media. In the past, he famously to some, he imposed an online ban of images of his debut collection before they hit the shop floor. This article provides, a video which explain how Instagram influences and benefits the fashion industry. As of 2015, Instagram has now made its 5th birthday, and has a net worth of 35 billion. According to google, Instagram now has 300 million people using its app every month. This has made Instagram bigger than twitter, with 70% of its users from the US.
Updates like this, telling us who is best to follow for NY Fashion week, just proves of Instagram's influence on the industry. From make up brand accounts, designers accounts and bloggers accounts, they all seem to keep everyone updated on what is out their now or what is on its way.
When interviewed with style.com he admitted that he spends more time looking at celebrity endorsements on social media than he does on critical opinion itself. Tom believes that customers no longer care about reviews or criticisms any more, in his own words he states that, “They care what picture Rihanna just Instagrammed while she's naked in bed, what new shoes she has on, how she's talking about them. That's what they respond to.�
FASHION AND WOMENS LIBERATION Women’s Liberation caused quite a stir, when it began and fashion was part of it. Whether it was from influencing the liberation itself, or the liberation influencing fashion. Women wanted to be noticed, not just for being wives or mothers. They wanted to show that they could be powerful and not just men. The only way women could do this, was by actions, like acting like a man. They began to ride bicycles, plan protests and wear pants, at the time this was seen as provocative. From an article within Vogue, I have discovered that the only woman who managed to satisfy the changing needs of women from the 1920’s was Coco Chanel. Everything she designed for women only, yet she created things with influence from the suits of her lovers, such as a two piece. Yet it can still be saw that fashion can sometimes propose a more feminine image that is far from reality and far from what was fought for.
In modern day, women wear fashion in whatever way they want… When it comes to fashion in business, a lot of women tend to use the male influence to style an outfit, whether its from a two piece, to a shirt and pants but may add some femininity by wearing a pair of heels. But now with trends changing, women are also more rebellious with their outfit choices. I find that this can also relate back to the time of the suffragettes and Emmeline Pankhurst. The quote, ‘’I would rather be a rebel than a slave’’ was famously said by Emmeline. She fought long and hard for women’s rights and done it in a rather public way. I find that this comes across in many outfits worn by women, especially celebrities, as celebrities are now the next big influence on the style across the world.
From a first glance at this image, it is not easy to see what is the main focus of the advertisement. Apart from this, you are able to gather that the target audience, will be male. This becomes apparent through the colours used and the objects within the image. The brands name does not appear clear, yet the slogan ‘I hate Ugly’ seems to make the brand come across quite smug. I think if I had the opportunity to change this advertisement, I would make the product that they want to promote stand out more. This will make the audience less confused and more focused on the product, and then look at it in detail, instead of being distracted by everything else.
You can see straight away in this advertisement, the brand they are promoting which is Chanel, and the statement they are wanting to prove. Apart from the slogan, I think that the pattern on the dress also stands out immediately but the dress is not well shown off. With Chanel being such a well known brand, they know that they don’t have to show off as much because people will always be drawn to the brand. Although the boldest part of this advertisement is the slogan, the dress is well advertised by the model and she seems to be wearing minimal makeup and has a simple hair style keeping the focus on the outfit.
This advertisement comes across very laid back. From the image used in the advertisement the main focus, seems to be the man. Also the pose he is positioned in, makes it seem obvious that he is wanting the attention on him and that it will be the clothing he is wearing. It is advertising for the clothing brand ‘Jockey’. Although this advertisements image seems to be quite dated, it seems to catch the eye. The slogan works well also, as its basically telling you whether or not you lose, if your wearing this brands clothing you’re still going to look the best player. I think this advert works well.
From this red tape advertisement, although there is a lot going on in the advert, you can still see what is the product, which is the shoe. The shoe seems to be more focused on in the image, every other thing seems to pushed back into the image, and the shoe comes forward. It also becomes obvious that its target audience is quite young. Although the advert focuses on the male shoe, the lady is also wearing a similar shoe in the exact same style so this adds seems to put one advertisement into another without people realising. I think the product is quite clear, even with the busy background it seems to be well focused on.
This Dolce and Gabbana advertisement is very minimal yet still manages to stand out with its Brand name and its Gold product. From the clear background it is obvious that the product they are wanting to promote is the Gold Jacket as it is shown more than once, and that the target audience is young men. You can tell this by the models used in the image, the models come across very focused and seemed to be concentrating on whatever they seem to be doing, and this may be how the brand want there customers to feel, the want to look smart and sophisticated. The colour of the jacket also shows the quality of the product. I think this advertisement works well but if I had to change it I would remove the male wearing the pants, as he seems to take a slight focus away from the other men promoting the product.
Customer Profile
Customer Profile
Customer Profile
Name: James Cooper Age: 28 Lives in: Kent Occupation: Call centre sales assistant Hobbies/Interests: Socialising with friends, attending local festivals, Cycling Favourite Style: Laidback shirt and jeans Favourite Shop: Burtons/Topman Favourite Music: Artic Monkeys, Oasis
Name: Georgia Lee Age: 24 Lives in: Essex Occupation: Boutique owner Hobbies/Interests: Fashion, Beauty & travelling Favourite Style: Simple yet classy Favourite Shop: Zara/Mango Favourite Music: BeyoncĂŠ
Name: Robert Jones Age: 45 Lives in: Doncaster Occupation: College Sports tutor Hobbies/Interests: Sports, travelling Favourite Style: Laidback, trousers & t shirt/ tracksuits Favourite Shop: TK Maxx Favourite Music: Motown
Customer Profile Name: Scott Murphy Age: 21 Lives in: Liverpool Occupation: Club owner Interests/Hobbies: Music, Sport, Socialising, business Favourite style: Smart and sophisticated Favourite shop: Zara, Tessuti Favourite music: House music, Calvin Harris etc‌
Customer Profile Name: Tom Stone Age: 33 Lives in: Dublin Occupation: Trainee solicitor Interests/Hobbies: Law, hiking, outdoors. Favourite Style: simple jeans and t shirt Favourite shop: sports direct/ Matalan Favourite music: Mixture of laidback songs.
SUCCESSFUL ADVERTISEMENTS… From this Nike advert, although it is clear straight away what is being advertised because of the brand logo, the T shirt the boy is wearing is not very clear or well presented. But the story that the advertisement is trying to put across, puts across a positive view. As you can see the boy who seems to be running is over weight but what Nike are trying to say is that if you buy there brands clothing, you can do anything and size doesn’t matter. Although it is a young boy in the advertisement Nike design for all ages and most sizes. If I was to make any adjustments to this advert I would make the clothing look more presentable, although we want the theory behind it to be a positive, sometimes to theory can over look the product. I would think about putting the logo above the person. The dated style of this advert tells us its from the past, this advert was from the 70s era. As of the 70s it was known for its bright colours. So by editing this advertisement to black and white, it stands out immediately especially during the time it was used. The simple sentence works with the advertisement of the product, ‘A study in the unstudied look’. Compared to the typical hippie look from the 70s era, this look is very simplistic and is a probably a style that was not considered back then, and that is why it has been explained as unstudied. The stance of them model, gives a slightly edgy but elegant look, giving the audience the idea that’s it for a wide age range. I don’t think I would make any changes to this advertisement.
This advert for max shoes, seems to work well. Although it only shows the shape and material of the shoe, the way the woman is tied up in the laces, is a way of gaining the attention of the male audience. The brand obviously wants there customer to be confident in the shoes and from this they want them to seem as though they can attract women from wearing the product. Although the advert is simple but bold, I would change the layout and maybe just advertise the shoe alone, without the woman tied up by the laces. Some of the audience may be offended by this, and also some males may feel uncomfortable buying the product as they may only be looking for a shoe and don’t want to be seen as buying it for the attention off women.
I believe that this Balmain advertisement has a strong theory behind it and can be quite powerful. Although the background is dark with bright lights, it does not take the attention away from the outfits that are worn by the models. The bold prints of the garments make them stand out much more. The garments are worn by many well known models, to me this gives its audience a sense of diversity and as you can see they are sat around a table eating fast food. The advert has the power to show, all these incredibly successful women, put in real life situations whilst meant to be wearing expensive designer wear. It gives the audience the idea that you don’t have to be going to extravagant occasions to wear something like this or have to be a model, you can be a ordinary person.
This Miss Sixty advert, is so simple that you know straight away what is being advertised. Although the model is wearing more than just Miss Sixty jeans, you can see from the television screen image that the jeans are the focus. This advert works well with it being so simple, and also the way the brand logo is shown and the way the model is standing. The message to the consumer seems to be if you buy the product that you will feel and look the same as the model, for example; you will stand out. Also the product will focus on your bottom and make you feel more comfortable in the jeans. The model is placed high up, this could give the impression that the jeans could make you feel some sort of power. I don’t think I would change anything about this advertisement, I find that it works well and its simplicity makes it easier for a consumer to become attracted to it and take more notice.
UNSUCCESSFUL ADVERTISEMENTS
I think that this Chanel advertisement is very full compared to any of its past advertisements. I think it can be seen as unsuccessful as it does not really show which product should be focused for advertising. Although it is using Cara Delavigne, who usually models for the younger generation, the style she is dressed in makes the brand come across very old fashioned. Although it is set up to be like a ‘modern day ‘Marie Antoinette’ it seems to give it the idea that it is focusing for an older age range. But there is so much going on in the advertisement from the outfit, to the background which blocks out the focus of the advert. Also its not very successful is showing the brand, as the name seems to fade into the background. If I was to change anything about this, I would make it as simple as I could, I don’t think Chanel needs to use a lot of detail, with it being such a popular brand, it will gain attention just from simply showing the product on its own with its brand name or logo.
I think although this advert puts across a negative aspect it also has a positive, it is trying to put across the slogan ‘fashion junkie’ technically saying its better to be addicted to purchasing clothing, through its image which Is suppose to be similar to someone taking drugs, yet it is models with a garment. But it seems to completely throw its audience, as it does not seem to advertise a particular product, as you cannot really see what the models are wearing. But for some people this can be seen as a positive for people with drug addictions, it could make them feel better as they may think well if a professional model can do it then so can they. But really the brand want people to buy the product. If I was to change this, I would change the whole aspect of the advert, I would show the garments a lot more and take away the theory the have used to explain there slogan.
Although this Topshop advert is very simple It is not very focused on the garment. The illusion made with the models arms, seem to gain more attention than the outfit itself, and with the background the outfit seems to blend it and becomes less noticeable. I think the illusion is used to put across Cara’s personality which is fun and outgoing, and that she can make something simple stand out but with this image that is not the case as the attention is taken away from the garment. If I could change anything about this advertisement I think I would take away the illusion or maybe add a darker background so that the product stood out more.
This is an advertisement for Harvey Nichols, under the slogan of ‘try to contain your excitement’ although it is trying to put across the idea of someone being over excited about a brand, it seems to take away the classiness sense of the brand even though they are trying to humour the audience. Apparently the audience where just trying to make a ‘visual representation of a well known phrase’ it come across slightly embarrassing for the brand. If I was to change anything I would take away the point of ‘the girl peeing herself’ and make it simply to keep the classy expensive look of the brand.
This Balenciaga advertisement seems unsuccessful due to the dull colours used, and also by the pose from the model. The model seems to look tired, drained and slouched down in the chair. From the position of the logo and the model, you cannot really see the product much, the only thing you can see in detail is the belt attached. You can tell its target audience is young men due to the model but by the way he looks, people may be less attracted to the product because they don’t want to feel like the model seems to feel. If I was to change anything I would change the position of the model so that the product was more clear to see.
Advertisement will always play an important role in the growth of brands and the popularity of their products. When something is advertised in an exciting and bold way then it is bound to be remembered by its audience. Just like TV advertisements, a lot of people now look forward to what some brands are going to do next for there adverts, such as John Lewis at Christmas. Although not every advert is always successful, the ones that are become a huge benefit to the brand they are representing, and the ones that are not still seem to stand out but sometimes for the wrong reasons and this is bad for a brand. When a brand gains attention from a consumer, they are able to get more information on the type of audience that are taking notice of the advert, and then the brand is able to learn what they need to do more or need to stop doing to get a better reaction.
MINI BRANDING PROJECT Reason for Re-brand To add a bit more sophistication to the brand, with a new colour and print scheme.
Target Audience 18-30 year olds. Still a slightly young audience, but with a more sophisticated/sporty outlook on style.
Theme
Aim
Still using the Balmain style, such as deep/bold colours bring embellishment into it. Mixed onto a glamourous sport themed garments.
To bring new statement pieces to Adidas and add some sophistication, and possibly gain a new audience.
EMBELLISHMENT
PRINTS
BOLD
BALMAIN X ADIDAS Adidas is a German company that creates and manufactures sports shoes, clothing and accessories. The brand was founded in 1949, by a man called Adolf Dossler, thanks to a family feud he was involved in at the family company, Adidas was created and quickly became the rival brand to puma which was the creation of Adolf's’ brother, Rudolf. Over the years, Adidas has became particularly popular in both the sporting world and fashion industry. From sporting collaborations to celebrity endorsements. Many of the celebrity endorsements, now include; Kanye west, Katy Perry, Pharrell and Rita Ora. Adidas is known for its sport themed garments and use of primary colours. Adidas is also known for its prices, depending on the product they sell the expense differs, from high street prices to high end prices. As for Balmain, it was found around the same time of Adidas, but a few years before in 1946. Balmain is a Haute couture brand, for many years Balmain kept the look of ‘classy luxurious designs’ but as of 2011 when Olivier Rousteing took over, although he liked the brands aesthetic, he decided to take the label to the finer aspects of French couture. Balmain now stays at expensive prices whether it’s the brands casual clothing to its catwalk garments. Balmain is linked to many famous faces, and is now bigger than ever. Although the brand sells casual clothing it is known for its glamourous occasionwear.
Customer Profile Gemma Gallagher is 24, working as a retail sales assistant living in Manchester. Gemma is originally from Leeds, but is now living in Manchester as she is studying Fashion Marketing at University. Her friends say she is very bubbly, trustworthy but keeps herself to herself. She loves fashion, socialising with her friends, keeping fit and travelling. When it comes to travelling, she is a city girl. From travelling to places such as New York, Milan and Prague. Her style has differed over the years as she has enjoyed trying so many different trends, but she has now grew into her own personal style of simple clothing with a simple statement piece, for example; a patterned jacket. She has found that this has made it easier for her to put outfits together, especially when it comes to going to university, she likes the fact that she can get up of a morning and throw a simple outfit on, but still manage to stand out by wearing bold patterned pants or a t- shirt. She really enjoys catwalk fashion, but prefers to shop and wear high street as it is more affordable for her especially with being a student. Although she prefers high street prices, she doesn’t mind paying out for a statement piece, if it is quality worthy. She prefers shops, such as Topshop, and Office. Her favourite colour is gold, and she owns many garments in this colour, she is always buying glittery and glamorous pieces but likes to pair them with something casual especially when it comes to going out with her friends, whether it is a simple pair of heels or clutch bag.
MAKEUP & STYLING With the range that I have designed being so bold, I have researched beauty tips and makeup looks that would work well with my range. From looking on Pinterest and Instagram I have found a few neutral hair and make up looks that I think would work. If I was to do a photo shoot to advertise my range, I would prefer the makeup and hair to be a simple as possible, as I want the main focus to be the garments. From a hair point of view, I have picked two simple styles, straight and a wavy curl, both could be styled to this look or could be your natural hair which can be easier to do for some people.
When it comes to makeup , I have kept it quite minimal, a simple touch of foundation, with a golden eye shadow, a light contour with a nude/beige lip. I want the range to come across as effortless as it can, I don’t want it to seem complicated to its audience, that they feel they have to through a lot of effort just to pull of one piece.
‘’Do you run Balmain?’’ I have chosen ‘’Do you run Balmain?’’ to be my slogan for my range. When it comes to Balmain, most people know the quote ‘I speak Balmain’ which pretty much means they live for the brand. I decided that as I was combining Adidas and Balmain as brands together, it was important to try and gain attention of new consumers as well as old consumers. People who have purchased Balmain in the past, will be so used to the quote ‘I speak Balmain’ that this will catch there eye, they will begin to wonder why the question of ‘Do you run balmain?’ is being asked which will lead to them to being informed on the new range. When it comes to the Adidas side of the range, the word run puts a whole new aspect onto the range, people know that these brands have two completely different selling points, and two completely different types of clothing. When you look into a range from Balmain, you see glamour and occasion wear, whereas with Adidas, you see sports wear, so when you put the to together, you can pretty much do anything in them. The word ‘run’ gives you that idea, that anything is possible by wearing the clothing out of this range and that you are not restricted.
Mission Statement
From combining the two brands, I have found that they both have there own personal mission statements. As a brand, Adidas’ don’t have a target market of a specific age, there brand produces clothing and footwear for ‘Athletes at all levels of sports’. They use a slogan ‘Impossible is nothing’ this lets their audience know that you don’t have to be a professional or world record athlete to shop at Adidas, and that anything is possible when wearing the brand. There mission is to gain any type of person, in order to make them feel comfortable and powerful when wearing their clothing. When it comes to Balmain, Olivier Rousteings’ aim is to bring a new attitude to the fashion brand. Giving it a variety of features, from modernity, diversity and youth, which is something that is usually associated with fashion haute couture. So when creating my range, my mission statement is to create a range, that consists of high end design combined with sports, that gives different types of consumers the opportunity to purchase a high end catwalk brand with a high end high street brand, which can be worn for any sort of occasion of choice, in comfort. It creates diversity within styles. With a target market of ages, 18-30, it still has a young vibe to the range but that doesn’t mean a customer whose age is out of my target cannot purchase a piece from the range.
To advertise my range, I have decided to start of with design business cards. I wanted to keep the front simple, so that it would stand out. I have decided against using my brands logo on the front, and simply used the original Balmain and Adidas logo so that it would catch the eye of the consumer. By seeing such different brands placed together, it may be able to gain more attention as people will begin to wonder why both brands have been placed together.
As well as keeping the front simple, I have chose to keep the back simple also. I have managed to add all the information that is needed, as the social media links will be giving more information. I have decided to put the ranges logo onto the back, to show the customer, I have also added the ranges launch date very bold so that it may be the first thing that the consumer see’s when they look at the card. Showing the Instagram, twitter and snap chat logos are to tell the consumer to be prepared to keep up to date on the apps.
Signs and advertisements will be placed in the window displays above the mannequins.
With the range being on sale close to the tills, this will give customers the opportunity to take there time around the store to find the clothing. This benefits Adidas also as a costumer may spot something else they like outside of the range and purchase more. .
Pieces from the range will be on display to purchase at the back of the store, close to the tills.
The Adidas X Balmain collection will be sold in Adidas stores only and displayed on a large stand which present mannequins, rails and smaller stands that will show the range as you enter the store. This is so that it is the first thing the customer sees.
When it comes to sourcing, the materials used for my range will be consistent of, Embellishment, Nylon, Cotton, Lycra, Mesh and Chiffon.
Analysis of branding task‌ For the mini branding task, I decided to conjoin two brands and create a brand new range. I decided to take a chance and combine two completely opposite brands. I chose to work with Balmain and Adidas, although Balmain is known as a high end designer brand, Adidas Is also designer, yet it has its affordable prices so that it has stores on the high street. I have decided that the range would be sold through Adidas stores only, I wanted to create excitement for customers, and give them the opportunity to make an occasion out of this brand new range, I wanted to put the two brands together to create new unique sophisticated clothing, that would still appeal to old customers and gain custom from new customers. Using the information from my customer profile, I wanted to make each piece to be a statement piece and stand out. When comparing the two brands, I found that Both had specific target markets, yet Balmain was more set to a certain age range of around 18 to 30, where Adidas was more aimed at a an audience of athletes, fitness fans and people who worked with sport or around it, instead of restricting custom by a set age range. But with my range, I wanted to create something that had a specific target market, that could help benefit the brands profits, and status so I decided to set my target market of an age range of 18-30. Over the years, Adidas has become known for its mix of celebrity endorsements, as well as Balmain becoming known for its work with many celebrity collaborations, including professional models, yet I have decided that this range becomes completely unique by its own personal advertisement, with such well known brands being joined together, I believe that this range can benefit on its own. I decided to create my range, still using sport themed garments, but bringing in historic Balmain designs and prints and adding them to the clothing, to create glamourous statement sport themed garments.
‌ To advertise my brand and range, I created business cards, along with a brand new slogan ‘Do you run Balmain?’ I think this worked well, when it come to connecting the range to its customer market. I think if I was to change anything about my range, I would add some shoes and accessories, but first I wanted to start off with just clothing to see how well the range would do, and if it was successful then I would extend the range. I also think that the range did work, but I could have maybe used two different customer profiles, and created a range for both men and women instead of restricting the range to just women, as Balmain and Adidas produce for both sexes. As for the expense of the garments, I think I would stick to the prices I have used, as my aim was to make a range that consisted of Balmain, that would be more affordable to people who are fans of the brand but where unable to afford actual Balmain pieces, with them being at such high end prices. I decided to create a floor plan for where my range would be displayed and advertised within an Adidas store, from visiting the store in Liverpool and Manchester I noticed that the stores do not have a specific area inside where they display a new range So I decided to plan where my range would be and place it at the middle point of the store, but so that it was in the customers view as soon as they entered the store on mannequins and display rails. What I learnt from my peers was that I should definitely consider adding accessories as it may bring more excitement to the range, and also more choice, as some customers who like the brands, may only prefer to shop for certain pieces, for example; shoes or bags. Doing this branding task, helped me gain a lot more experience in using my computer skills through photo shop. I have learnt to take my time when it comes to producing my ideas, as they may not always come out how I expect them too. A lot of researched helped me make the decision of what brands to collaborate and what type of garments to design for a range.
Evaluation‌ Towards the end of this assignment, I began to enjoy it more as I got the opportunity to be more creative. At the beginning of the course, I thought it would become boring as it involved a lot of research. I have studied history in the past so I enjoyed learning about the improvement of fashion within different eras, and how it has affected fashion now. Also I found from doing this work, I have a better understanding of the unit and the work I have produced. If I could make any changes to my work, I would have liked to be more creative and write more in depth, as I found that a lot of my work was image focused. Throughout my work, I think my strongest points, was the work where I had to be creative still, for example; producing mood boards and concept boards. I benefited using the programmes, from studying at Level 3 and did not struggle when it come to creating some pieces for my power point. I done my best to keep all my work, neat by using the same font the whole way through, and keep it in order. I also enjoyed a lot of the work, being of our own choice, although we where studying a certain subject, when tasks where given we had a few choices so that we could make our own decision so that we where able to work with something that we enjoyed, for example; researching our own choice of eras. I managed not to miss any days, so that I was up to date with the work being done, but I found that because I had already studied a similar course before, I was working at a quicker pace, because I understood what was being discussed.
‌ I enjoy working on photo shop because I am quiet confident using the programme, but I think if I had the opportunity to make any changes in my work or my work ethic then I would take more time, as I feel as though I rushed ahead so that I could get my work out of the way, but I found that if I worked at a slower pace, it would have been more concentrated. Also when it comes to photo shop, I think I would move my mood boards onto photo shop also, and not just my concept boards, as it would give it more of a professional look, instead of just depending on ‘copy and paste’. Overall I did enjoy the majority of the assignment, especially the cultures task and the mini branding task. What I liked about the cultures task, was learning new information, and being able to work a lot on it and also write in depth about something completely new to me. With the branding task, It was the creative side I enjoyed the most by being able to use all of my ideas and be more focused to create a whole new range. After completing this assignment, I do think the start of the course has lived up to what I expected, and I am beginning to enjoy it even more than I did at the start. I usually do not enjoy group work, as I prefer to be more independent, but I have realised that since September, I have enjoyed all aspects of the assignment, from sharing ideas amongst the class, to group work and independent work itself. I also enjoy gaining and giving feedback, as it gives you the confidence in your work ethic and how you would improve your work in the future.