RETURN OF THE BIVALVE Blupoint Oyster House is back
Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Adam Gibson Recently I came across a review I had written about Ambrosia and its bar, Blu Point, back in 2002. Observing what was self-evident back then and even more obvious today, I mentioned that: “what impresses me most about Ambrosia is that it doesn’t try to push the culinary envelope; instead, it functions within a well-defined zone of comfort, where quality and reliability are the key. So much restaurant dining these days walks the line between kabuki and low comedy that it’s refreshing to eat somewhere where you can be certain the food you order will arrive at the table hot, in a timely fashion and with the minimum of histrionics.” If there is one thing that has remained largely unchanged in the Indy dining scene over the past two decades, it is the consistency of the force of nature that is Gino Pizzi. He has opened, operated, closed and sold more one-off restaurants than seems reasonably possible. He has trained and nurtured legions of front- and backof-house staff who have gone on to pursue successful careers of their own in fine dining. As trends have come and gone, as they inevitably do, Pizzi has remained focused and unwavering in his quiet pursuit of quality and consistency, like the racing driver who puts in the steady laps while others crash and burn all around.
78 slmag.net
