Return of the Brave

Blupoint Oyster House is back

Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Adam Gibson

Recently I came across a review I had written about Ambrosia and its bar, Blu Point, back in 2002. Observing what was self-evident back then and even more obvious today, I mentioned that: “what impresses me most about Ambrosia is that it doesn’t try to push the culinary envelope; instead, it functions within a well-defined zone of comfort, where quality and reliability are the keys. So much restaurant dining these days walks the line between kabuki and low comedy that it’s refreshing to eat somewhere where you can be certain the food you order will arrive at the table hot, in a timely fashion and with the minimum of histrionics.”

Linguine in clam sauce

If there is one thing that has remained largely unchanged in the Indy dining scene over the past two decades, it is the consistency of the force of nature that is Gino Pizzi. He has opened, operated, closed and sold more one-off restaurants than seems reasonably possible. He has trained and nurtured legions of front- and back-of-house staff who have gone on to pursue successful careers of their own in fine dining. As trends have come and gone, as they inevitably do, Pizzi has remained focused and unwavering in his quiet pursuit of quality and consistency, like the racing driver who puts in the steady laps while others crash and burn all around.

Gino Pizzi

When it debuted on Westfield Boulevard in the heart of Broad Ripple back in 1982, Blu Point was one of the first oyster bars in town, predating the Majestic and The Keystone Grill by several years. Well-received but short-lived, perhaps because the locals at the time did not appreciate the slippery bivalves as much as the proprietor, before too long Blu Point had become Ambrosia’s bar, with a reduced emphasis on seafood. Since relocating Ambrosia to its present spot at College and Kessler four years ago, Gino long harbored the desire to reopen Blu Point as a standalone restaurant, a goal he finally achieved just as Covid-19 was bringing the restaurant business to a grinding halt.

The dining room has a nautical feel

“I've always known my dad is talented at what he does,” says his daughter Francesca, who along with her sister Anna has become a key figure in the Pizzi family business. “But witnessing him open a brand-new restaurant in the middle of a pandemic took it to another level. I'm always blown away by the way his mind works when it comes to everything related to running a restaurant.”

Salmon Tartare

Now open for reduced-capacity dining plus a few choice seats on the expansive patio, the new Blupoint Oyster House (Blupoint is now one word instead of two) has been greeted enthusiastically by old and new customers alike, some of whom even remember the original location. Son-in-law Daniel Cage, who recently purchased Ambrosia with wife Anna, puts his finger on the eternal appeal of Gino’s restaurants: “As Gino mentored me in this business, I quickly realized why he was not only able to provide a wonderful dining experience to his guests, but why he was able earn people’s loyalty for over 40 years,” he explains. “ It’s because he loves to build relationships with his guests.”

Situated on the ground floor of the new MK apartment building at 5858 N. College, the restaurant boasts a spectacular design featuring lots of deep blue, evocative of the food’s aquatic origins, highlighted by touches of gold, and promises to entice and enthrall a whole new generation of diners.

Fresh seafood is flown in daily

More delicious fish arrives: a tuna tartare, a cioppino, recently renamed the Fisherman’s Stew; some seared day-boat scallops. All the dishes are simple, expressive of their ingredients and carefully prepared.

Grilled octopus features a lemon-chili vinaigrette

We talk about our favorite dining experiences elsewhere; it is clear that Gino’s inspiration comes from far and wide, but it is here, right in this restaurant right at this time, that he seems truly the happiest. He has plans for future locations, to be announced later, that will take the Blupoint concept to a broader market. We do not dare ask the obvious question, but Gino provides the answer without hesitation. “Of course I could stop,” he suggests with his trademark twinkle. “But if I did, would I stop as a person?” We briefly ponder this imponderable question, order another bottle of wine and dig into some more oysters. Some stones are best left unturned.

For more information and reservations, visit blupointindy.com