The Mane Event

Located in the heart of Millionaire's Row, Matt Winn's Steakhouse is Churchill Downs' first year-round restaurant.

Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Andrew Kung

Even amid the emptiness, you can still sense it: the rhythmic click-clacking of high heels on the pavement, the lingering aroma of spilled beer and bourbon accented by the memory of mint, uproarious laughter, and calls of vendors hawking their wares. Since it opened in 1875, the storied grounds of Churchill Downs have borne witness to countless tales of happiness and heartbreak, and many of us were heartsick when the difficult decision was made to run the 146th Kentucky Derby sans fans. Still, in the past few months, I've been treated to two red carpet moments at the historic track, escorted along the same path trod by celebrities and VIPs on their way to Millionaire's Row. Best of all, it's an experience open to anyone who dines at the recently opened Matt Winn's Steakhouse.

The view of the track from the balcony outside the dining room.

A multi-year labor of love for Rich Sutton, Vice President of Hospitality Strategy for Levy Restaurants at Churchill Downs, Matt Winn's is the track's first restaurant to operate on a year-round basis. In pushing for the project, Sutton likened it to fine dining venues open to the public at other iconic landmarks, such as Le Jules Verne restaurant in Paris' Eiffel Tower. "We are providing a high-level experience worthy of the top floor at Churchill Downs," he explained.

Bourbon Tasting Room

Sutton said that the $11 million build-out (formerly home to Millionaire's Row 6) and the steakhouse menu draw inspiration from "old school racing" at places like Santa Anita, famously frequented by members of The Rat Pack. Both striking and subtle details pay homage to the history of the sport. The restaurant's name honors Colonel Martin J. "Matt" Winn, credited with helping the Kentucky Derby become known as the "most exciting two minutes in sports." Brass plates on the back of chairs in the sprawling 300-seat dining room are engraved with Derby winners, the patterned carpet blankets the floor in red roses, and stained glass windows at the rear of the space depict jockey silks. At the front of the room, floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the finish line, with cozy private lounge areas oriented to take advantage of the view.

A separate tavern menu is offered at the bar. One of the more interesting selections is a $75 Colonial Boujie Fried Chicken Sandwich that is topped with 23k gold leaf and comes with a half-bottle of Veuve Clicquot.

The consulting team actively relied on Senior Executive Chef David Danielson and Chef de Cuisine Jeff Dailey during the planning process. Approaching a decade of work at Churchill Downs, the affable Danielson is a Kentucky institution, with countless television appearances and his own cookbook. Dailey is a graduate of Sullivan’s Culinary Arts School who worked under the late Dean Corbett at Corbett's and at Harvest before joining the team in February of this year.

A quick scan of the menu reads like a greatest hits list of Kentucky purveyors—Kenny's Cheese, Black Hawk Farms, Broadbent, and Weisenberger Mills, to name a few. It's a bit of an anomaly that a restaurant owned by Levy's, the largest hospitality company in the world, would allow for such flexible fluidity in its menus. "Because we don't have to abide by a generic corporate standard, we can really emphasize local partnerships," Dailey explained. Danielson concurred, adding, "Levy's allows us to operate like a small independent restaurant."

This flexibility plays out in the menu, which at its core is a classic steakhouse format. Still, there's enough compelling variation and daily specials to please the palates of pescatarians and even vegetarians. Reflecting Matt Winn's diverse clientele, Dailey said that the menu toes the line between approachable and eclectic. "We want everyone to feel comfortable here and not be intimated by ingredients that are too foreign," he added.

40-ounce porterhouse steak.

My last visit kicked off with a taste bud-tingling octopus ceviche, before moving on to a classic French onion soup (kicked up with Copper & Kings Brandy and Kenny's Kentucky Rose cheese), and a few stolen bites of my better half's roasted baby beet salad, before the main course of a bone-in strip steak perfectly prepared to my preference and accentuated by a bright charred scallion chimichurri. Sharable sides spread out on our table—harissa-spiced carrots, wild mushroom gratin, and haricot vert—underscored that this was a feast fit for a king at the home of the sport of kings. Stuffed but always game for a little something sweet to finish off a meal, I selected a few bonbons on offer from the rolling dessert cart, a concept I wish more restaurants offered.

Loaded potato gratin

Befitting a city that marks the start of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, Matt Winn's boasts a dedicated bourbon room, a glass-walled cube lined with covetable bottles of brown water. Consulting Executive Bourbon Steward Tim Knittle leads approachable bourbon tastings that are sure to impart even selfprofessed experts with new insight on the spirit. We thoroughly enjoyed our tasting of the Woodford Reserve Matt Winn's, a private selection also available to take home by the bottle.

While procuring an enviable selection of bourbon in the Commonwealth isn't terribly difficult, Matt Winn's impressive wine list took considerably more time. Sutton, a self-professed oenophile, put in countless hours to source hard-to-get bottles from small châteaux. "One of the great things in pulling this concept together was that each team member chose a project and it was fun to watch each person get excited about the challenge of their role," remarked Danielson.

The wine room holds bottles from some of the world’s finest wineries.

Complementing the elevated cuisine and further upping the ante on fine dining in the Commonwealth, Sutton sourced professionals to train bar and service staff from top-tier institutions such as Thomas Keller's Per Se in New York City and The Aviary in Chicago. With sales doubling in the first six weeks following their July opening, Sutton admits that there have been some growing pains in keeping pace. However, on each of my visits, service was prompt and professional, with just the right amount of warm Southern hospitality to makes guests feel at ease.

Jumbo lump crab cake

Deft service was undoubtedly in order on Derby night this past September, when Danielson said the restaurant was open to guests of horse owners and trainers. "Some were celebrating an amazing win, while others, just a table away, came to lick their wounds." Even if I fell into the latter, I can't think of a more storied place to sulk.

Filet with seared foie gras and butter poached lobster tail.

Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday, Matt Winn's Steakhouse is located inside Churchill Downs, 750 Central Avenue. For more information or reservations, visit mattwinnsteakhouse.com.