Church Monuments of Southern Moravia by Tereza Rafaelová

Church Monuments of Southern Moravia

Contents Christian Church Monuments of Southern Moravia .. 2 Cyril and Methodius ........................................................ 3 The Great Moravian Empire and the Beginnings of Christianity.................................................................... 4 Brno Bishopric and the Moravian Church Province ...................................... 6 Brno, the City of Monasteries ........................................ 8 The Oldest Monastery Complexes in Southern Moravia....................................................... 10 Pilgrimage Destinations, Pilgrimages and Processions................................................................12 Giovanni Blasius Santini-Aichel.................................... 14 The Magic of Old Books............................................... 16 The Transformation of the Church over the Centuries................................ 18 Points of Interest in Towns and Country ...................20 Modern Church Monuments .......................................22

Jewish Monuments of Southern Moravia......................24 Shalom!..............................................................................25 Boskovice â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Life behind the Gate ................................26 Jewish Quarters, Synagogues and Cemeteries ............28

Southern Moravia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Region of Pilgrims and Roads.........30 Tourist programmes................................................................32

Church Monuments of Southern Moravia Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s start our journey to the witnesses of the past, which belong to the Moravian countryside just as much as the romantic ancient castles, wonderful unspoilt nature, historic towns with their unique atmosphere as well as the picturesque vineyards. We are talking about churches, chapels and monasteries, plague and Marian columns, Ways of the Cross and the way-side columns â&#x20AC;&#x201C; briefly, about the church monuments, which in our country have gone through more than a thousand-year-long development and which reflect the unique period, when they were created as well as a testimony of eternal seeking and discovering.

Cyril and Methodius

Ego sum pastor bonus

For more than eleven centuries Moravia has been the centre of spreading Christian belief on the historical religious map of Europe. Despite the fact that the nations and cultures, which lived here long before that, had their gods, temples and religions, more than a thousand years ago, this country was blessed by the life and work of the patrons of Europe, Sts. Cyril and Methodius. In 862 the Great Moravian Duke Rostislav sent a delegation to the Byzantine Emperor; he ensured him, that his serf people disowned paganism and they obey the Christian laws, and

because he wanted to extricate his countries from German bondage, he at the same time asked Michael III to establish a Bishopric in Great Moravia. The Moravians, who then for the first time entered the intricate ways of the highest European diplomacy, sent a similar delegation also to Pope Nicholas, nevertheless he did not intend to interfere with the sphere of Frannian influence and refused the request. However, the delegation to the Byzantine Constantinople succeeded. The legend states, that about a year later two brothers, scholars and monks originating from

Greek Salonica, began their journey far to the unknown north. When they arrived to Moravia, they were pleasantly surprised by the number of churches and believers, but the dissolute life of Slavs and the local loose morale took them by surprise. Similarly, Duke Rostislav was also taken by surprise: he was waiting for a bishop and only the priests arrived, who on top of that conceived their mission more as a discovery expedition. The Duke never knew, that for the Byzantine church circles the immediate establishment of an independent church province was possible only

Io 10,11

in the countries, where the belief had already planted its roots firmly. Methodius with Constantin got on with the work. They preached about the faith in Christian God not in the noble and unintelligible Latin, but in the pleasing and beautiful Old Slavonic language, which the Slavs understood and which several years later became the authorised official language. They began to bring up their successors from the local people and they created script for the Slavonic language, “Glagolitic script”, into which they later translated from Greek a number of liturgical books including the Bible. And despite the fact that the eastern Christian culture soon after extinction of the Moravian State was forced out by the liturgy and powerful holy orders, coming from the west, the Cyril-Methodius tradition is still alive. Thanks to these missionaries the local people had their own script and books before the majority of other European nations. In Moravia the flames of Slavonic literature, education and culture began to rise – and they still do up to the present day. By the way, something interesting to add from the history: Constantin accepted the order name Kyrillos – Cyril only during his last few weeks of life, just before he died in 869 in Rome, nevertheless under this new name he was canonized. His elder brother Methodius was ordained to be the first Archbishop of the Panonic-Moravian Archdiocese and he died in 885.

Velehrad One of the most significant pilgrimage destinations in Moravia closely connected with the Cyril-Methodius tradition; this is the most probable seat of the first Great Moravian Archbishop St. Methodius. In 1205 the first Cistercian monastery in Moravia was established here. Its founder, the Moravian margrave Vladislav Henry gave it the name after the nearby settlement Veligrad, considered to be the centre of the Great Moravian Empire. Today in Velehrad worth visiting are besides the hundred-metre long five-naved basilica, once the biggest church in the country, also the underground catacombs and lapidarium with the foundations of a former temple. Situated above the nearby water spring you will find the chapel of St. Cyril and Methodius, called “Cyrilka” among local people, with the main altar, made in Rome for the thousand-year anniversary of the arrival of Cyril and Methodius to Moravia.

 The basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and Cistercian monastery Velehrad Tel.: +420 572 571 130

The Great Moravian Empire and the Beginnings of Christianity

In principio

p Sadská Výšina

Where did the capital of Great Moravia stand? Although there are a couple of candidates, historians and archaeologists are lost. Was it Velehrad, Sadská Výšina in Staré Město or Mikulčice? And doesn’t the modern term “capital” have a completely different meaning than it had in the 9th century? What’s more, the seat of the magnate did not have to be the cult capital, no matter if it was the pagan or Christian cult. And that is not the end of the mystery: just as well the grave of the Bishop Methodius has been sought after for many centuries. According to the legend he was buried “in the Great Moravian church by the left side of the wall behind the altar of the Mother of God”. It hasn’t been discovered yet in any of the places stated above – there are only more question marks in history facing us.

The Great Moravian Empire, which in our minds has always been connected with the names of missionaries Cyril and Methodius, represented during the not-quite-hundred years of its existence at the turn of the 9th and 10th centuries the European Empire, which dazzled in a shine of wealth, power and remarkable cultural prosperity. Its history is quite well known thanks to the written sources and archaeological findings: stunning fortified settlements with palaces and vast fortification walls along the rivers, internal conflicts of rulers and their agitated destinies, the first baptism ceremonies, external wars on the west and east and the relatively early end, which was attributed to the disagreements between the sons of Svatoplukthe most powerful ruler of Great Moravia on one side, and to the Hungarian forays on the other side. The star of Great Moravia dazzled the world in those days, it shined and died out never to come back again, nevertheless it left us a priceless heritage: the first Christian churches. The pre-Romanesque triplenaved basilica, rotundas of different designs with one or more apses, as well as the churches in circlular layout with four carrels later became the

typical works also for Romanesque church architecture in Bohemia. The faith had its roots deeply planted in Moravia. History and archaeology nowadays considers Valy u Mikulčic and Staré Město near Uherské Hradiště to be the main centres of Great Moravia. They further include Olomouc and Velehrad, and from other places we should name above all Hradiště near Znojmo and Rajhrad. Mikulčice near Hodonín plays an absolutely unique role, as being one of the two assumed seats of the Great Moravian dukes. On a slightly higher plateau near the meandering Morava river once towering high stood a settlement with a strong keep and in some sections up to an eight-metre high stone fortification wall. The Moravia river with its many dead arms and swamps provided the place with a natural protection; in the period of floods the settlement was actually on an island. Mikulčice, however, became famous also as the world-known centre of Slavonic church architecture, because the archaeological teams over the years managed to excavate foundations of twelve churches here. One of them is the triple-naved basilica with vestibule and atrium, which is with its size of 36,5 x 12 metres the largest excavated Great

Moravian church so far. The Valy u Mikulčic National Cultural Monument is certainly worth visiting, and that is also thanks to the local charming countryside. The circuit tour with information boards leads past the most significant archaeological sights, in the brick buildings you can have a look at preserved foundations of one of the churches and an inventive exposition. In some sources it is mentioned, that the title “capital of Great Moravia” could also belong to the settlement of Pohansko, situated in an impressive landscape of swamp forests south of Břeclav. The complex of the total area of 28 ha, surrounded by a mound, is an archaeological reserve. Excavated here were, besides a number of graves of people and horses, also the foundations of fortification walls, church, magnate’s estate and tradesmen’s settlements. Exposition of these

q Mikulčice – exposition

p Mikulčice – church No. II

excavations is placed in the nearby Imperial-style hunting lodge dating from 1812. Pohansko is a perfect example of fragile foundations of the Christian belief. Similarly

erat Verbumti

Io 1,1

p Pohansko – reconstruction of the Place of sacrifices

p Chateau Pohansko

as elsewhere the local inhabitants returned to the original pagan cults after the end of the Great Moravian Empire. The main role in their religion probably belonged to the cult of Gods of the Sun, worshipped in the yearly rhythm of solstices and equinoxes. Archaeological findings reveal, that in those ancient times the Christian church was desecrated, in the vestibule

was a fire pit and in the vicinity even a small pagan cult site was established, today restored in one of its possible shapes.

q Mikulčice – foundations of the church No. IV  Memorial to Great Moravia Masaryk’s Museum Hodonín Mikulčice Tel.: +420 518 357 293 Fax: +420 518 352 568 e-mail: masarykovomuzeum.hod@iol.cz http://www.masaryk.net  Chateau Pohansko Muzeum and Gallery Břeclav Pohansko u Břeclavi Tel.: +420 519 371 488 Fax: +420 519 322 878 e-mail: bvmuz@bvnet.cz http://www.breclav-city.cz/muzeum

The Mountain of St. Clement Deep in the silence of the vast Chřiby forests situated above the Osvětimany village is the ancient pilgrimage destination, where tradition is still alive up to the present day. You can still recognise the remains of a fortified settlement from the Great Moravian Empire period. It includes the excavated foundations of the church, demolished by the Hussites. A monastery once stood next to it, which according to the legend Duke Rostislav many centuries ago gave to Saint Constantin, Methodius and their pupils for a meditative life. They found there a place for contemplation, prayer and work. No wonder that even there the grave of the Bishop Methodius was searched for, but it was never found. The wooden chapel St. Clement was built there for the celebration of the thousand-year anniversary of the arrival of the missionaries.

 Chapel of St. Clement Osvětimany Tel.: +420 573 376 160 http://www.osvetimany.cz/ farnost.html

Brno Bishopric and the Moravian Church Province

Venite post me, et faciam

Church of St. James In the sea of Brno roofs standing out like a lighthouse is a 92 metre tall tower of the church of St. James, which complements the typical silhouette of the city. The triple-naved church, one of the most valuable monuments of Late Gothic in the Czech Republic, had gained already at the end of the 16th century the moreor-less same appearance which we know today – and probably already since that time the famous little man “Nehaňba” (Noshame) has been sticking out his bottom from the southern window to all the passers by. The diverse interior includes Gothic sculptures, a Baroque altar and paintings, Renaissance tombstones and Neo-Gothic accessories.

p Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul q

16th August 2003, 395 years after the day of the birth of the famous army commander Louis Raduit de Souches, who during the Thirty Year War succeeded in defending Brno against the multiple Swedish superior forces, the Brno Bishop Mons. Vojtěch Cikrle buried his remains into a reconstructed crypt in the church of St. James in Brno.

The church history of Southern Moravia, which includes also the Brno Diocese, begins with the arrival of the Salonica brothers in 863. In 1063 the historic sources mention the “Moravian Bishop”, Benedictine John from the Břevnov monastery, who was based in Olomouc. Due to the

fact that the Catholic Church was the biggest church community in Southern Moravia, in 1777 Pope Pius VI issued a Bull, in which he promoted the Olomouc Bishopric to the Archbishopric and established the new Brno Bishopric. The so far used collegial chapter in Brno at Petrov then became the

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cathedral chapter, and its church of Sts. Peter and Paul became a new dome of the diocese and Brno Bishopric together with the Olomouc Archbishopric created the Moravian church province. The panorama of the Bishop’s seat city of Brno has two dominant features: a medieval castle and the Špilberk Baroque fortress representative of faded profane power and the cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul a symbolic ship of spiritual hope in the changing times. The church stands on a high hillock on the site of the Romanesque parish church with a crypt, where at the turn of the 13th and 14th century the Brno people built the Early Gothic church of St. Peter. During the years it was widened, enlarged, rebuilt

piscatores hominum

and reconstructed several times, its patrocinium was broadened by St. Paul, and finally during the Swedish siege in 1643 and 1645 it was destroyed by artillery and burned down. The building was provisionally fixed, but the complete reconstruction of the church was carried out only a hundred years later in the Baroque period; between 1743–1746 the nave gained its vaulted ceiling and its alterations continued, especially in connection with the anticipated promotion of the church to the cathedral after the establishment of the Brno Bishopric. The church gained its present appearance during the Neo-Gothic reconstruction at the beginning of the 20th century. The interior is mostly Baroque and NeoGothic, but we can also

find a Gothic Madonna with a child dating from the 14th century there. The cathedral is surrounded by the remains of the Brno fortification walls and picturesque Baroque houses. Just below the cathedral, in Muzejní Street by Capuchin Square, we can visit the Bishop’s Courtyard, mentioned already in 1306. It is well known especially among admirers of fresh-water fish, animals, old coins and medals, because since its establishment in 1817 it has been the house of the Moravian Museum and installed in its interiors are the above-mentioned expositions. The core of the picturesque complex is the medieval provost’s residence of St. Peter, entirely rebuilt in the Renaissance period. The appearance of the Bishop’s Courtyard has not changed much since that time. The yard was originally used as a lapidarium, where exotic trees were planted as exhibits. The torso of the Baroque Mercury’s Fountain, which until 1860 stood on Freedom Square, also reminds us of that period.

q Bishop’s Courtyard

Mt 4,19

The Brno city patroness, the Virgin Mary of St. Thomas’s The painting on wood of the Black Virgin Mary is one of a number of old Madonna’s of Byzantine origin, which were created during the 8th and the 9th centuries. Although we do not know the exact appearance and the place of the origin of the painting, nor its further fate, one thing we know for sure: Emperor Charles IV gave it as a present to his brother, the Moravian margrave John Henry for the newly established Augustinian monastery in Brno. Until 1783 the painting was placed in a special chapel of the monastery church of St. Thomas. The painting is worshipped as a palladium, the miracle symbol of city protection. When in 1645 the Swedish besieged Brno, the Mother of God at St. Thomas’s became a sought after refuge and the tired Brno people were sourcing their strength and courage from it. According to the legend she appeared above the town in the moment of the most dangerous fights, when just on the day of her Assumption she was desecrated by a thousand canons, and she spread her protective gown over Brno. The same picture appeared on the sky once more in 1742, when the Austrian-Saxon armies besieged the town. So there was a very good reason why the Virgin Mary of St. Thomas’s became a patroness of Brno. Hanging in the church of St. Thomas is a copy of the famous painting. The original was in 1783 moved to the top of the silver altar in the basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the Old Town of Brno, where the Augustinians moved instead of the dismissed Cistercian nun order and which is up to the present day a destination of many pilgrims, to plea for an intercession of the miraculous Madonna or just to admire the beauty of the valuable work of art.

q Interior of the cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul n Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul Petrov, Brno Tel.: +420 543 235 031 e-mail: rkf.brnodom@biskupstvi.cz n Bishop’s Courtyard The Moravian Museum Muzejní 1, 602 00 Brno Tel.: +420 542 321 205 Fax: +420 542 212 475 e-mail: program@mzm.cz http://www.mzm.cz n Church of St. James Jakubské nám., Brno Tel.: +420 542 213 835 e-mail: sv.jakub@volny.cz http://www.volny.cz/sv.jakub

Brno, the City of Monasteries

Laetatus sum in eo, quod dixerunt

The historic centre of Brno boasts the densest network of monasteries and monastery churches from practically all the towns in the Czech Republic. This is because of the Swedish army, which besieged Brno in the summer of 1645 at the end of the Thirty Year War – and also because of the thirty-seven year old Colonel of French origin Lous Raduit de Souches, who was put in charge of the defence of the town unbelievably only three months before the siege. The Colonel and his brave Brno people had to do the impossible and they completed their mission well: the siege of Brno at the end took three and a half months, the Swedish drew away empty-handed and the chief commander of the Swedish army, General Torstenson, disappointed from the Brno failure gave up his leadership. Brno at that time gained respect, admiration and entered into the awareness of entire Europe, nevertheless, it q Church of St. Thomas

came out from the war conflict substantially damaged. One of the reasons was that Colonel de Souches among other things ordered to demolish and flatten all the taller buildings within a distance of 600 steps from the fortification walls, which the enemy could use. Although the masterful strategy delivered its fruits, the Brno people themselves actually destroyed their own suburbs including three new monasteries. The Franciscan monks, Franciscan nuns and the Capuchins lost their seats. Other orders then of course also looked for refuge under the protection

of the fortification walls – and those, who were already based in the town, didn’t dare to move to the outskirts after the bitter experience. During the second half of the 17th century Brno became one of the largest Baroque building areas. Although the new Franciscan monastery was abolished in 1784, the church of St. Mary Magdalene on the corner of Josefská and Masaryk Streets still stands up to the present day. The Franciscan nuns, later Ursuline nuns, built a new monastery with the church of St. Joseph on the corner of Josefská and Orlí Street, and the Capuchins settled down on Capuchin (Kapucínské) square below the Bishop’s Courtyard. The Augustinian monastery, founded by the Moravian margrave John Henry, brother of Emperor Charles IV, was based in the town already

p The pulpit “Fall of Angels” in the Dominican church of St. Michael originates from the workshop of the famous Znojmo sculptor J. Winterhalter senior. Also his pulpit in the shape of a globe in the Znojmo church of St. Nicholas is unique and there are many other works in PeakBaroque style found in many church monuments in Southern Moravia.

before the Swedish siege, but it was destroyed too. Built at that time also was the new Baroque church of St. Thomas with the Luxembourg tomb, the monumental seat after death of the Moravian rulers, which in its interior hides among other things a valuable stone Pieta dating from 1358. Situated on Dominikánské Square is the Dominican monastery with the impressive church of St. Michael; besides the valuable Baroque interior the church is also interesting due to its opposite orientation of the presbytery towards the west. At the end of the 16th century the Court of the Estates was built above the northern wing of the cloister and refectory, which laid down the foundation for the new complex of the Land House, today New City Hall. We mustn’t forget about the Minorite monastery with the church of Sts. John on Minoritská Street. The church with

rich and dynamic facade is accomplished by the Loretta Holy Shanty and Holy Stairs. The former Jesuit Brno college, demolished during the clearance of the town centre at the beginning of the 20th century, is today reminded only by the outstanding church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Jezuitská Street, built in Mannerism style at the turn of the 16th and 17th century. By the way the Swedish also caused the local cathedral bells to ring noon already at 11 o’clock. After more than a hundred-day-long siege Torstenson according to the legend proclaimed, that if he wasn’t able to succeed to seize the town before the bells of Petrov ring noon, his army would withdraw. He appointed 15th August as the decisive day of the battle – nevertheless the General of the Protestant Church had no idea, that the day was the significant Catholic Day of the Assumption of the Virgin

mihi: „In domum Domini ibimus“ Mary. Just that mistake strengthened resolve of the exhausted town defenders so immensely, that they managed the impossible. The legend, however, says, that the town was saved by the old bell-ringer from the cathedral, which cleverly rang noon one hour earlier. When the Swedish heard the sound of the bell, they stopped fighting and according to the legend they disappeared before the evening. Although the historic truth is different, the Petrov bells still ring noon one hour earlier … Colonel de Souches then stayed in Moravia; he became a field marshal, received citizenship and the rest of his life he spent at the Jevišovice estate, where he died in 1682. According to his wish he was buried in the Brno church of St. James, where you can still see his tombstone. To his honour on 15th August the city of Brno every year celebrates not only the day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary but also a commemorative day for the end of the Swedish siege, and it was declared to be Day of Brno with a grand city celebration.

Ps 122,1

n Augustinian monastery and the church of St. Thomas Rašínova ul., Brno Tel.: +420 545 572 215 e-mail: sv.tomas-brno@volny.cz http://www.volny.cz/sv.tomas-brno n Dominican monastery and the church of St. Michael Dominikánské nám., Brno Tel.: +420 542 212 511 n Franciscan monastery and the church of St. Mary Magdalene Masarykova ul., Brno Tel.: +420 542 210 074 Fax: +420 542 210 074

p Jesuit church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary q Side Altar in the church of St. Thomas

n Jesuit church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Beethovenova ul., Brno Tel.: +420 542 216 695 e-mail: pmstreda@sky.cz http://www.jesuit.cz/brno.html n Capuchin monastery and the church of the Finding of the Holy Cross Kapucínské náměstí, Brno Tel.: +420 542 213 232 Fax: +420 542 221 206 e-mail: brno@kapucini.cz http://www.volny.cz/kapucini.brno n Carthusian monastery and the church of the Holy Trinity Božetěchova ul., Brno Tel.: +420 549 211 263 http://farnost.katolik.cz/krpole n Monastery of the Brothers of Mercy and St. Leopold’s Church Vídeňská ul., Brno Tel.: +420 543 165 319 Fax: +420 543 165 319 e-mail: milosrdni@volny.cz http://www.volny.cz/milosrdni n Premonstratensian monastery and the church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Lazaretní ul., Brno Tel.: +420 545 212 156 e-mail: fara.zabrdovice@seznam.cz n Ursuline monastery and the church of St. Joseph Minoritská ul., Brno n Minorite monastery with the church of Sts. John Minoritská ul., Brno Tel.: +420 542 215 600 Fax: +420 542 215 602 e-mail: brno@minorite.cz http://www.minorite.cz n Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Mendlovo náměstí 1, Brno Tel.: +420 543 424 010 e-mail: opatbrno@d-net.cz http://www.d-net.cz/opatbrno

Church of Sts. John – Holy Stairs

Capuchins and Baron Trenck Facing the Capuchin (Kapucínské) square with its facade with a terrace is the church of the Finding of the Holy Cross. Lying beneath it is the legendary Baroque crypt, enveloped with many mysterious myths. A system of vents in the pillars of the church, free access of air and suitable soil composition mummified the dead bodies in a natural way. From the second half of the 17th century the Capuchin order members, its patrons and other significant personalities were buried in the crypt. Resting here is also the legendary leader of Pandurs Baron Franz Trenck (1711–1749), sentenced for army misdemeanours to life in prison at Špilberk. He died after a year in the prison and according to his wish he was buried in the Capuchin crypt.

q Louis Raduit de Souches

The Oldest Monastery Complexes in Southern Moravia

Multi enim sunt vocati,

p Portal of the church in Porta coeli q Chapter Hall in the Porta coeli monastery Why did Joseph II abolish monasteries? Useless institutions, which have no benefit to the state and its people – this is how Emperor Joseph II perceived many monasteries. Therefore from May 1782 to October 1784 all orders, which were not involved in teaching, science and didn’t look after the sick were abolished. The act affected for example Carthusians, Gaetanos, Trinitarians, Carmelite nuns, Clare nuns, Premonstratensian nuns and other orders. The abolished monasteries were converted into hospitals and military barracks, evacuated churches and chapels were used for military and administrative purposes, or sold to private hands. In Bohemia from 154 convents 71 were abolished, in Moravia from 74 convents 41 were abolished.

Islands of peace in the bustling and busy Southern Moravia, oases of heavenly peace, places tempting one to stop and think – these are the old monastery complexes, once the centres of social and economic life of the region. They attract us, without us even knowing why. The oldest monastery in Moravia is Rajhrad, belonging to the Benedictine order. Although it was officially founded by Duke Břetislav around

1045, according to the legend it might have been established already at the time of Cyril-Methodius’s mission. Rajhrad monastery once was a famous centre of education; originating from the monastery gallery are for example Gothic Passion-theme paintings by the Master of the Rajhrad altar, kept in the galleries in Prague and Brno. The dominant feature of the extensive complex is the church of Sts. Peter and Paul, rebuilt according to

p Pauluan Monastery in Vranov

plans by Santini-Aichel. The monastery has been gradually renovated, the courtyard and church are accessible, the interior is open only during festive occasions and pilgrimages. A little bit younger was the monastery Rosa coeli, Heavenly Rose, in Dolní Kounice, which was probably founded by Vilém of Pravlov in 1181 for the Premonstratensian nuns. Other sources mention him as Vilém of Pulín. Over the centuries the monastery was burned down several times and destroyed. Preserved from the original buildings are only the impressive Gothic ruins – cloister garth with a cloister, chapter house, staircase tower and above all the church of St. Peter and Paul with collapsed vaults. The monastery with an impressive church, where the floor is the earth

and the roof is heaven, is accessible in season on weekends and public holidays. In 1190, the Znojmo Duke Conrad Otto founded the Premonstratensian monastery in Louka near Znojmo. The monumental Baroque complex including the triple-naved church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Wenceslas with the RomanesqueGothic crypt is partially accessible, in its interior it houses for example a museum of winegrowing and coopery. In 1225 the first monastery of Cistercian

pauci vero electi nuns in Moravia, “Valley of Mary”was established in Oslavany and at the end of the 16th century it was converted into a Renaissance chateau. The only remaining part of the monastery is the EarlyGothic church of the Virgin Mary, rebuilt into a chateau chapel. The second, but more famous Cistercian monastery Porta coeli in Předklášteří near Tišnov was established in 1233 by Queen Constance, widow of Premyslid Otakar I and mother of Wenceslas I. Over the centuries the monastery was plundered once and three times abolished, but always was re-established and returned to the Order. The dominant feature is the GothicRomanesque church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with a unique Gothic portal of French cathedral type. It symbolises the vineyard of the Lord with his Apostles and pictured in the tympanum next to Christ are Constance of Austria and Wenceslas I. The poetic name of the monastery Porta coeli, Heaven’s Gate, expressed the wish that the monastery

would connect the believers with heaven during their life and make their entrance into heaven smoother after their death. Heaven’s Gate is here of course open to all visitors – the complex houses the Podhorácké Museum, a part of the Brno District Museum, and accessible to the public are also the main, most valuable sections of the monastery complex including the church, cloister garth and chapter house. Our journey through the oldest country monasteries we will complete at the famous pilgrimage destination in Vranov, the base of the Order of the Smallest Brothers of St. Francis of Paula – Pauluans. Found below the nave of the Early Baroque church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary is the Liechtenstein crypt, the founders of the monastery, with the Imperial style tomb. In the church you can find wooden Late Gothic sculpture of Madonna and carved Vranov Nativity Scene, with mechanical moving pieces and music box playing carols.

q Rosa coeli Monastery ruins in Dolní Kounice

Mt 22,14

q Benedictine monastery in Rajhrad

n Monastery Rosa coeli Dolní Kounice e-mail: rosa.coeli@post.cz http://www.homex.cz/kounice n Church of the Virgin Mary and the Cistercian monastery Oslavany Tel.: +420 546 431 355 n Church of Sts. Peter and Paul and the Benedictine monastery Klášter 1, Rajhrad Tel.: +420 547 230 027 n Church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary and the Pauluans monastery Kostelní náměstí 7, Vranov Tel.: +420 541 239 023 e-mail: dc-vranov@katolik.cz http://www.dc-vranov.katolik.cz

p Two small Vranov sights: chimes on the northern tower and convincing writing on the monastery wall, where it is written: “This house stands in the middle of the world and the constellations of all the roads shine towards its doorstep, whoever doesn’t believe it can measure it. Here is where you, pilgrim, are to begin your peaceful journey.”

n Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and the Cistercian monastery Porta coeli Podhorácké Muzeum Předklášteří u Tišnova Tel.: +420 549 412 293 Fax: +420 549 410 098 e-mail: muzeum@brnenska.cz http://www.muzeumbrnenska.cz n Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Wenceslas and the Premonstratensian monastery Znojmo-Louka Tel.: +420 515 227 723 http://www.louka.wz.cz

Monasteries at the turn of the century Usually it involves only small communities maintaining the continuity of orders, which in monasteries try to reestablish order life and save the neglected buildings. There are also new monasteries being established; the first convent built after 1989 is the monastery of the Order of Poor Sisters of St. Clare – Clare nuns – in Brno-Soběšice. Some communities have higher ambitions; foe instance Pauluans returned to Vranov near Brno in 1992 with the aim to create the spiritual centre of the Brno Diocese there. Recently the first part of the Spiritual Centre of St. Francis of Paulua was open. The Augustinians at the Old Town of Brno look after the heritage of the former abbot of the order Johann Gregor Mendel (1822–1884) and they opened to the public an exposition about the life and work of the spiritual father of modern genetics.

Pilgrimage Destinations, Pilgrimages and Processions

Haec est dies,

p The atmosphere of pilgrimages in Blatnice pod Svatým Antonínkem provided the inspiration to lovers of Moravian Slovak folklore; it inspired the painter Joža Úprka for a number of his paintings including the Pilgrimage at St. Anthony mentioned above.

Historic pilgrimages to Hnanice Are you tempted by legends and the mysterious world of miracles? During your journey you mustn’t forget about Hnanice, a winegrowing village south of Znojmo. The local healing spring fountain in the chapel of St. Wolfgang has been visited by pilgrims from all over Europe since the 13th century. In the nearby forest the hermit Daníž once lived, famous for his healing powers. As the local pilgrimages used to be really generous, the chapel soon wasn’t big enough for the number of visitors. Today’s church with the well chapel is part Gothic and part Baroque – and instead of miracle water you can try for example the excellent local white wine.

n Church of St. Wolfgang Hnanice Tel.: +420 515 227 723 http://www.louka.wz.cz

Pilgrimages and processions, an inseparable part of our ancestors’ lives, have had their roots in people’s nomadic wandering since the dawn of time. Often they are connected with roads – either paths in the countryside, lined with crosses, chapels and sculptures, or in a wider sense with the ways of a common sharing of faith. Wandering, often full of selfdenial and renunciation, was understood as an expression of deep devoutness. Held under the leadership of priests were the penitent and pleading pilgrimages, in which hundreds of people from one parish or village took part. A pilgrimage also used to be captivating theatre – venerable clanging of bells above the country, shining pilgrimage church, smoke of frankincense and the glow of candles, goldembroidered chasubles and on top of that angelic singing of church choirs. Who could resist such

splendour for the eyes and ears, which gave the illusion of a real entrance gate to heaven? Although in today’s sense of the word a pilgrimage can’t be without a secular gild, the common meeting, sharing, wandering and seeking spiritual values is timeless. The sense and meaning then remain the same. Therefore, accept an invitation for a pilgrimage to one of the villages in Southern Moravia, it is irrelevant which one you choose – Marian pilgrimage or a pilgrimage held for celebration of local patrons. It is only up to you which one you choose – but you certainly won’t be disappointed. A significant pilgrimage destination is the remarkable nature pilgrimage site in Hluboké Mašůvky near Znojmo with Lourdes Cave, Holy Well, God’s Grave and Calvary. The local church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary was built by Louis Raduit de Souches, the saviour of Brno before the Swedes in 1645, who also gave to the church a copy of oak figure of Madonna de Foi, worshipped around entire Europe as well as overseas.

Far from here, under the peaks of the White Carpathiens lies the picturesque MoravianSlovak town Blatnice pod Svatým Antonínkem. The pilgrimage chapel of St. Anthony of Paduan at the Blatnice Mountain, visible from faraway, was built at the end of the 17th century by Duke Hartman of Liechtenstein to give thanks for healing his son. Thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Bohemia, Moravia and the neighbouring Slovakia take part in the local pilgrimages.

Situated below the southern foothill of the Ždánický Forest you can find Žarošice, a famous pilgrimage destination, according to legend its beginnings reach back to the 4th century. At that time Queen Fritigil was baptised here and she founded a sanctuary here. An object of worship is the Gothic sculpture of the Virgin Mary with Jesus, today placed in the parish church of St. Anne. Found in the very heart of the Moravian Karst is the village Sloup with the pilgrimage Late Baroque church of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow, by the project of the famous Italian architect M. A. Canevalle. Belonging to the church is the chapel of Holy Cross with Pieta sculpture, which is believed to have miracle healing powers. Another significant pilgrimage destination and another sculpture of the Mother of God you can find in Brno-Tuřany, in the church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary. The figure is sometimes called Cyrillic Madonna, because according to the legend it dates back to the time, when Cyril and Methodius lived in Moravia. When the

q Church of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow in Sloup

quam fecit Dominus Great Moravian Empire fell apart, people hid the figure in the forest. In circa 1050 it was found in a bush by a local farmer, on the spot, where today stands in the corner of the pilgrimage site the pentagonal chapel of St. Anne. Two other important pilgrimage destinations of Southern Moravia we mention in different places; information regarding

Vranov near Brno you will find on pages 10–11, information about Křtiny is on pages 14–15. Of course there are many other pilgrimage destinations, which also should not be forgotten – for example the pilgrimage site with the church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary in Lechovice, the valuable Baroque pilgrimage chapel of

Dates of pilgrimages to the most significant pilgrimage destinations in Southern Moravia n Blatnice pod Sv. Antonínkem The main pilgrimage – on Sunday following the Day of St. Anthony of Paduan (13. 6.), 2 weeks later is the second main pilgrimage Smaller pilgrimages –the Thanksgiving pilgrimage on the last Sunday in August, All Souls Day pilgrimage on the last Saturday in October n Hnanice St. Wolfgang pilgrimage (31. 10.) n Hluboké Mašůvky A big pilgrimage – the Visitation of the Virgin Mary Day (2. 7.) pilgrimage, the first Sunday in July Monthly pilgrimages – every Saturday n Křtiny The main pilgrimage – the Sending of the Holy Spirit Day (celebration time varies – May–June) Smaller pilgrimages – from May to November for the occasion of the Virgin Mary Days, the Mediator of All Mercies (31. 5.), St. Florian (3. 5.), Sts. Peter and Paul (29. 6.), St. Anne (26. 7.), Assumption of the Virgin Mary (15. 6.), St. Hubert (3. 11.) and others n Sloup The main pilgrimages – Friday before Palm Sunday (date varies) and on the Day of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow (15. 9.) 3rd Sunday in September n Vranov The main pilgrimage – to the Virgin Mary of Vranov always on the 1st Sunday in September Pilgrimage period – from the last Sunday in August till the 1st Sunday in October n Žarošice The main pilgrimage – to the Virgin Mary of Žarošice (the Old Mother of God) on the 2nd Saturday in September Monthly pilgrimages – from May till October, every 13th day of the month

Ps 118,24

St. Anthony Of Paduan and of St. Florian above Dolní Kounice, or the chapel of St. James in Ivančice, which consecration was according to the legend connected with reminiscence of pilgrimages of local people to Santiago de Compostella, where the patron was buried. The interesting pilgrimage chapel of St. Florian you can discover above Moravský Krumlov;

p Moravský Krumlov n Chapel of St. Anthony of Paduan Blatnice pod Sv. Antonínkem Tel.: +420 518 331 424, 732 659 439 e-mail: farnostblatnice@seznam.cz http://www.sweb.cz/farnostblatnice n Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary Hanácká ul., Brno-Tuřany Tel.: +420 545 219 225 n Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary Hluboké Mašůvky Tel.: +420 515 255 227 n Church of the Name of the Virgin Mary Křtiny Tel.: +420 516 439 189 n Church of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow Sloup Tel.: +420 516 435 374 n Church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary Kostelní náměstí 7, Vranov Tel.: +420 541 239 023 e-mail: dc-vranov@katolik.cz http://www.dc-vranov.katolik.cz n Church of St. Anne Žarošice Tel.: +420 518 631 616

participating in the local pilgrimage regularly are the local firemen, who show their respect to their patron. Let’s not forget about the Marian chapel with the sculpture of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow at Lutršték and the church of St. Gotthard in Modřice, which is also the pilgrimage destination of all gardeners from Brno and its surroundings.

p Žarošice n Chapel of St. Sebastian Holy Hill, Mikulov e-mail: info@kapitulamikulov.cz http://www.kapitulamikulov.cz n Chapel of St. Anthony of Paduan and of St. Florian Dolní Kounice Tel.: +420 546 421 231 n Chapel of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow Němčany – Lutršték Tel.: +420 544 224 587 e-mail: rkf.slavkov@biskupstvi.cz http://www.sweb.cz/urbanet

p Hluboké Mašůvky n Chapel of St. James Nové Hory, Ivančice Tel.: +420 546 451 591 n Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary Lechovice Tel.: +420 515 277 123 n Church of St. Gotthard nám. Míru, Modřice Tel.: +420 542 210 074 Fax: +420 542 210 074 n Chapel of St. Florian Moravský Krumlov Tel.: +420 515 322 713

Giovanni Blasius Santini-Aichel

Nisi Dominus aedificaverit domum, in vanum

The Magic of Five Stars The cemetery and pilgrimage church of St. John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora near Žďár nad Sázavou, since 1994 inscribed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage property, is anot only a gem of the BaroqueGothic style but also a perfect example of Santini’s mastery and his fancy for numerical symbolism. As the legend states, five stars appeared in the Vltava river after John of Nepomuk had drowned, and therefore Santini built the church using the symbolism of the number five – the building has a pentagonal ground plan of a five-pointed star, five entrances, five triangular and five oval chapels and five altars. Even the main altar is decorated with five stars and five angels. The church is surrounded by a cemetery, bordered by arcades in the shape of a ten-pointed star.

The spiritual and cultural flowering of the Baroque period at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries can be compared to the Peak Gothic era. An important role was played by the intensive religious feelings in all social classes, as well as by the fact that, besides aristocracy, also learned prelates, often the abbots of important old ecclesiastical orders – the Benedictines, Cistercians and Premonstratensians – had become the patrons and sponsors of outstanding works of art. In the period of exceptional economic prosperity, when Hussite crusades and horrors of the Thirty Year War were – as if with a wave of a magic wand – forgotten, castles, chateaux and large monasteries were being built and re-built. Cathedrals and churches were being filled with sculptures, frescos, paintings and works of art of exceptional value, in order to praise the honour and glory of order and earthly saints. However, patriotism, reminiscences of the glorious times of Charles IV’s reign and the Gothic style as a reminder of the old glory also played their part. This constellation

q Church of St. John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora

p Church of the Name of the Virgin Mary in Křtiny

gave birth to the “BaroqueGothic” style that used Gothic architectural forms for Baroque-designed buildings, and that was at least a hundred years ahead of the romantic interest in medieval architecture. The godfather of this style was a Czech architect of Italian origin Giovanni Blasius (Jan Blažej) Santini. In South Moravia, in the village of Křtiny, Santini constructed a real jewel of Baroque architecture: the pilgrimage church of the Name of the Virgin Mary with St. Anne’s Chapel and the summer residence of Zábrdovice Premonstratensians, by

many experts considered not only the most beautiful of his buildings, but also the most appealing church monument in the Czech Republic. Though the main church building, fifty-six metres long, thirty-eight metres wide and with a dome arcing over to thirty-five metres, is the biggest of Santini’s buildings, the whole complex should have been even much larger according to the original urban plan. Symmetrically on both right and left sides of the main church, the architect designed cloisters and two high chapels. Although only the

central church building with a single chapel was constructed in the end, still the unfinished complex is imposing. The ingenious designer Santini, renowned also for his knowledge of the cabbala and number symbolism, seems to have been able to work with the energy of a particular place. Křtiny is the perfect proof of this claim. The basic element of Santini’s architecture is the Greekcross plan, the five points of which – the middle and the ends of the arms – form the centre of mutually intersected circular parts. The uplifting feelings of astounded pilgrims

laborant, qui aedificant eam

Ps 127,1

n Church of the Name of the Virgin Mary Křtiny Tel.: +420 516 439 189 n Church of St. John of Nepomuk Zelená Hora, Žďár nad Sázavou Tel.: +420 566 625 190 n Church of Sts. Peter and Paul and the Benedictine monastery Klášter 1, Rajhrad Tel.: +420 547 230 027

entering the main nave with openings to the aisles, bathed in light from all sides, are inexpressible. Křtiny is among the best known and oldest pilgrimage places in Moravia. While the name of the village is derived from the fact that, according to a legend, the pagans were baptised (“křtěni” in Czech) there after the coming of Christianity; the pilgrimage tradition is connected with the Gothic stone sculpture of Madonna, situated on the main altar. Santini’s second architectural work in South Moravia is the complex of the Benedictine

Monastery in Rajhrad, including the abbey church of St. Peter and Paul. Nearly a half of Santini’s works represented reconstructions of older sanctuaries where the artist had to cope with the already existing space and mass of the original building, and that was also the case of the church in Rajhrad. Unfortunately, he only just began building the church; after his untimely death the construction was finished by a Viennese architect C. A. Oedtel, who was often criticised for remodelling and thus degrading Santini’s original architectural concept. In spite of this, the single-nave

p Detail of the facade of the church of Sts. Peter and Paul in Rajhrad Giovanni Blasius Santini-Aichel (1677–1723) The renowned architect and spiritual godfather of the Baroque-Gothic style was born in a Prague family of stonemasons and bricklayers, coming from the Italian town of Roveretto (Aichel in German). According to written sources, Santini was lame and was harshly prosecuted in his personal life; however, the more brilliant was his professional career. Apart from the above mentioned architectural works, he is also the designer of such treasures as the monastery churches in Kladruby, Želiv and Sedlec near Kutná Hora, the Karlova Koruna chateau, many town and village churches with symbolic ground plans, farmsteads and also an inn with a ground plan in the shape of the letter “W”, situated in Ostrov nad Oslavou.

p Interior of the church in Křtiny

church with a barrel vault and five domes reveals, especially in the interior, all the typical characteristics of Santini’s design. The influence of the famous architect is evident in several other buildings in the surroundings – the parish church of the Holy Cross in Rajhrad and the church of St. John the Baptist in Telnice, the granary in Rajhradice or the church and residence in Ostrovačice.

The Magic of Old Books

Caelum et terra transibunt, verba q

The painting “Brothers’ School in Ivančice – The crib of the Kralice Bible” with dimensions of 8,10 x 6,10 metres was created by the world-famous painter Alfons Mucha, who was born in Ivančice. The picture is a part of the Slavonic Epic, a collection of twenty monumental canvasses, exhibited in the Moravský Krumlov Chateau.

The city of ecumenical tolerance In the wild times of the medieval ages it was a real mystery – as to why Brno never experienced either harsh national conflicts, or agonising Jew pogroms or the flames of the stakes of heretics? In the 20th century the tolerant genes of the city enabled a burial ground of the fallen German soldiers from the 2nd World War to be established, the gradual development of the European unique Museum of Gypsy Culture, the founding of the first Mosque in the Czech Republic and also the coexistence of many religions including the Russian Orthodox Church, Hussite Church, Evangelical Church of the Czech Brethren and many others. On New Year’s Day afternoon traditionally representatives of all Christian churches operating in Brno meet for ecumenical gathering of believers in the cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul, to reconfirm the validity of the honourable tolerance and mutual respect in Brno.

Whenever we get lost between the huge bookshelves made of highly polished wood and we look around the large monastery libraries, we are astounded by the beauty of the old books in heavy leather bindings with charming, fire-coloured initials and golden spines. If we look at Christianity, Jewish faith or Islam, each time we come across the “religion of a book”, although, it always has a different name – the Bible, the Torah, the Koran. Often they saw the light of day a long time before the invention of the printing press and a number of them were created just in Southern Moravia, in the region, where the ancient tradition of book printing was founded by none other than the missionaries, Saints Cyril and Methodius. Let’s remind ourselves of the double Bohemian and Polish Queen Elizabeth Richenza, who

significantly intervened into the history of Gothic architecture and literature arts. She established the Cistercian monastery in the Old Town of Brno with a hospital and the beautiful church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which is up to the present day the pride of Moravian Gothic, although thanks to the design using brick walls without rendering it is closer to North-German or Polish style buildings. Pope John Paul II in 1987 gave this church the honourable title of Basilica Minor, the only one in the Brno diocese and one of the few in the Czech Republic. Under the protective wings of Queen Richenza, a very active women, eight beautifully illuminated codex’s were created, the liturgical books, out of which the most valuable and most beautiful is the Breviary of Queen Richenza, also called “Rajhrad Manuscript”.

Treasures of priceless value were often created on the church ground. The today’s forgotten printing press workshop, which between 1595–1613 printed twenty-one titles, was established by no one less than the abbot of one of the most significant monastery complexes in Central Europe, the Premonstratensian monastery in Louka near Znojmo. Working for the printing house were two real masters in their crafts – engraver and illustrator Jan Willenberger, who became famous in 1593 by his wood-engravings in “The mirror of the famous Margraviate of Moravia” by Paprocký, and the printer Bartholomaeus Albert Forman, in Latin called Albertus Auriga, who in 1601 opened his own printing house in Brno. On our journey to the miracle called the book we mustn’t forget about Ivančice, an impressive

town with a number of Renaissance houses, Town Hall and remains of medieval town fortification walls. Below the square we notice the medieval church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with beautiful Renaissance helmet, but more interesting will be the remains of buildings of the Czech Brothers congregation with the original tower and uncovered foundations of the church. In the mid 16th century peaceful Ivančice became a significant centre of Unitas Fratrum, where from 1558 was the seat of highly educated bishop John Blahoslav. Under his leadership the quiet settlement transformed into the centre of spiritual life of the Czech Brothers and the Ivančice Divinity College became the best contemporary school of Unitas Fratrum. Established from his initiative was the secret printing house of the Czech Brothers, which began operating in 1562 by publishing the beautiful Ivančice Hymn Book. John Blahoslav stood by the birth of the monumental piece of work – the translation by the Czech Brothers of the Kralice Bible. Whilst editorial work and translations were concentrated in Ivančice, printing was carried out in nearby

vero mea non praeteribunt Mt 24,35

p Premonstratensian monastery in Louka

Kralice nad Oslavou. What are the main strengths of the Kralice Bible, published in six parts from 1579 to 1594? Excellent translation team, meticulous comparison of Greek, Latin, Hebrew and Aramaic originals, rich and incredibly informative historic and philological annotations, crossreferences, notes, print quality, typography – and above all beautiful cultured Czech language, which then became for many centuries the language standard and laid firm foundations of the correct Czech language.

q The cover page of the Ivančice Hymn Book

p Interior of the former library of the Louka monastery, today placed in the Premonstratensian monastery in Prague-Strahov

n Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Wenceslas and the Premonstratensian monastery Znojmo-Louka Tel.: +420 515 227 723 http://www.louka.wz.cz n Memorial to the Kralice Printing House The Moravian Museum Kralice nad Oslavou Tel.: +420 568 643 619

q The Kralice Bible – The cover page of the Gospel according to St. Matthew

Memorial to the Kralice Printing House The keep in Kralice nad Oslavou, where the Ivančice printing house was moved in 1576, was given to the Unitas Fratrum by its fervent supporter and patron, John Elder of Žerotín, the owner of the Náměšť estates. After the members of the Unitas Fratrum were forced to go into exile the keep was abandoned and later it vanished. Archaeological excavations discovered a collection of four thousand metal letters and mountings, which belong among the world’s unique discoveries. The foundations of the keep together with the Memorial to the Kralice Printing House create an integrated exposition. The famous Bible is commemorated also by a Memorial near the church, the first work of art of its kind in the world, dedicated to the book and its authors.

The Transformation of the Church over the Centuries

Lapidem quem reprobaverunt

p Boskovice – Church of St. James Fortified churches Despite the fact that we could hardly find an analogue for these types of buildings in the Czech Republic, their purpose is obvious: churches served as forts, which were to protect people from enemy raids. The church of St. John the Baptist in Kurdějov includes besides the church a freestanding prismatic tower, the chapel of All Saints, and even the escape corridors, all that surrounded by a fortification wall with loopholes dating back to the period around 1500. During Turkish plundering of Moravia in 1663 the Kurdějov people saved their lives and properties just thanks to this church. The second fortified church of St. James with an unusually big residential tower you can find in nearby Nosislav.

q Nosislav – fortified church of St. James

The development of the Moravian church architecture over the centuries was influenced by all known architectural styles. The modest and ascetically sober Romanesque art you can admire for example during a visit to Znojmo; the local rotunda of the Virgin Mary and of St. Catherine, National Cultural Memorial, built probably around the mid 11th century, boasts especially interior decorations with several rows of Romanesque frescoes. Dating back to the same period is the rotunda of St. Pantaleon in Pustiměř, out of which only the torso is preserved. The third Late-Romanesque rotunda of the Virgin Mary stands by the chateau park in Plaveč. However, the real pearl of contemporary architecture is the church of St. Peter and Paul in Řeznovice with three apses and unusual octahedral tower, by its design one of the most interesting Romanesque sanctuaries. Admirers of mystic Gothic will find a number of monuments in Southern Moravia. One of the most valuable Gothic church monuments is the church of St. James Greater in Boskovice with contemporary portals. The interior hides the unique Renaissance figural tombstones with a rich figural decoration; the highest one – and at the same time the highest tombstone in Moravia – is seven metres high! On the majestic location above the centre of the town Letovice stands the beautiful Gothic church of St. Procopius; where you can admire besides other things the colourful glass mosaics by K. Svolinský. You also shouldn’t forget about the white Late-Gothic church of St. Catherine in the village Kateřina,

which is like a symbol of firm foundations and the long life of this world. The beauty of Gothic, although it often intermingles with the footprints of other architectural styles, you can appreciate also in Hostěradice; the local church of St. Cunigund once was a part of the command of the Order of German Knights. We can end our trip to the medieval monuments in the church of St. Cunigund in Jevišovka, which represents an unusual combination of Late-Gothic and modern functionalistic architecture. Admirers of decorative and flamboyant Baroque will be attracted for example to Valtice, where they can visit the wonderful Liechtenstein chateau with a valuable chapel, as well as the impressive Baroque church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, or to the village Luleč, above which at the edge of one of the largest Great Moravian settlements stands the Baroque church of St. Martin. One of the most beautiful examples of Early Baroque in Moravia is the church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary in Lomnice with Neo-Baroque interior and contemporary figures. Out of churches, representing modern architecture, we mustn’t forget about the massive Classicist church of the Resurrection of the Lord, which was built by Duke Wenceslas Anthony Kounic at the end of the 18th century in Slavkov near Brno. It is impossible to neglect the Neo-Gothic church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary on the octagonal layout dating from the end of the 19th century in Břeclav-Poštorná, built from brick formpieces from the nearby Liechtenstein brick factory, and finally three churches from the

first half of the 20th century inspired by historizing styles – the church of the Sacred Heart of the Lord in Brno-Husovice and the church of St. Cyril and Methodius in BrnoŽidenice, and the excellent example of the building in the spirit of the then modern functionalism, the church of St. Augustine in Brno-Masaryk Quarter. q Rotunda in Znojmo

q Řeznovice

q Kateřina

q Letovice

aedificantes, hic factus est in caput anguli Ps 118,22

q Luleč

n Church of St. Barbara nám. U kostela, Adamov Tel.: +420 516 446 330 n Church of St. George Bořitov Tel.: +420 516 437 456 q Valtice

q Břeclav – Poštorná

n Church of St. James Masarykovo nám., Boskovice Tel.: +420 516 452 156 e-mail: rkfarabce@mtw.cz Romanesque and Gothic Art Romanesque mural frescoes in the Znojmo rotunda are of great value, however, they are not the only ones in Southern Moravia. We can find Romanesque and Gothic murals for example in the interior of the church of St. George in Bořitov, one of the top examples of medieval art in Moravia are the partially preserved Gothic murals in the presbytery of the church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross in Drásov or the figural paintings in the Romanesque-Gothic church of the Holy Cross in Nebovidy. A unique example of wood-carving art of the old masters is the Late-Gothic Zwettl altar in the Neo-Gothic church of St. Barbara in Adamov. The winged altar with rich figural decoration originates from the church of the Cistercian Abbey in the Austrian Zwettl and it was created at the beginning of the 16th century by the wood-carver Ondřej Morgenstern of České Budějovice.

n Church of the Sacred Heart of the Lord nám. Republiky, Brno Tel.: +420 545 576 475 e-mail: brno@ofm.cz n Church of St. Augustine nám. Míru, Brno Tel.: +420 543 248 134 n Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary Břeclav-Poštorná Tel.: +420 519 333 518 n Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross Drásov Tel.: +420 549 424 180 n Church of St. Cunigund Hostěradice Tel.: +420 515 333 238 http://skalice.web.worldonline.cz

q Brno – Husovice

n Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Palackého nám., Ivančice Tel.: +420 546 451 591 n Church of St. Peter and Paul Řeznovice Tel.: +420 546 451 591 n Church of St. Cunigund Jevišovka Tel.: +420 519 519 234 n Church of St. Catherine Kateřina Tel.: +420 541 239 023 e-mail: dc-vranov@katolik.cz http://www.dc-vranov.katolik.cz n Church of St. John the Baptist Kurdějov Tel.: +420 519 411 953 n Church of St. Procopius Letovice Tel.: +420 516 474 165 e-mail: letfara@tiscali.cz n Church of St. Martin Luleč Tel.: +420 517 353 308 n Church of the Holy Cross Nebovidy Tel.: +420 542 210 074 n Church of St. James Nosislav Tel.: +420 547 231 636 n Rotunda of the Virgin Mary Plaveč Tel.: +420 515 255 227 n Rotunda of St. Pantaleon Pustiměř Tel.: +420 517 357 283

q Brno – Church of St. Augustin

n Church of the Resurrection of the Lord Slavkov u Brna Tel.: +420 544 221 587 e-mail: rkf.slavkov@biskupstvi.cz http://www.sweb.cz/urbanet n Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary nám. Svobody, Valtice Tel.: +420 519 352 115

Points of Interest in Towns and Country

Laudate Dominum, Znojmo

p Znojmo – Church of St. Nicholas

p Romanesque mural frescoes in the Znojmo rotunda

p Crypt of the Premonstratensian monastery in Louka

One of the oldest towns in our country lies in the fertile land of wine and apricots on the slopes above the Dyje River. Visitors will be enchanted especially by its historic centre, full of the Renaissance houses, winding streets, romantic look-outs and stylish open spaces. Its dominant feature is the eighty-metre tall Town Hall Tower. Those afraid of heights will head for a tour through the medieval underground, with up to 30 kilometre long corridors, which have in some parts four storeys above each other. The former monarch castle houses a museum and found there is the most valuable monument of the town, the Romanesque rotunda of the Virgin Mary and of St. Catherine with unique frescoes. The church of St. Nicholas, founded around 1100, complements the characteristic silhouette of the town. The original structure came to an end probably in 1335 during the merry wedding of Anne, the youngest daughter of John of Luxembourg with the Austrian Duke Otto, when the entire town was in flames. Some architectural elements of a new church,

built gradually up to the end of the 15th century, resemble the influences of the architects of the cathedral of St. Vitus in Prague. From of other church monuments let’s mention the church of St. Michael, the Minorite monastery with the remains of the EarlyGothic church of the Virgin Mary, the Capuchin monastery with the church of St. John the Baptist and the Dominican monastery with the church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross. Standing further away from the historic town centre are another two monuments: the monumental Premonstratensian monastery in Louka, which can be visited within the Wine-growing Tourist Programme, and the monastery complex of the Congregation of Sisters of Mercy of St. Karel Boromejský Kaspar in Hradiště with the Baroque church of St. Hippolytus.

n Church of St. Nicholas Mikulášské nám., Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 224 694 n Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross and Dominican monastery Dolní Česká 3, Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 224 184 e-mail: znsvkriz@volny.cz http://mujweb.cz/kultura/svkriz n Church of St. Hippolytus and the Monastery of the Congregation of the Sisters of Mercy of St. Karel Boromejský Křížovnická ul., Znojmo-Hradiště Tel.: +420 515 236 211 n Church of St. John the Baptist and Capuchin monastery Masarykovo nám. 13, Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 236 211 n Church of St. Michael Jezuitské nám., Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 236 211

omnes gentes Mikulov

The historic town with a rich wine-growing tradition gained its astonishing charm, not only thanks to its location on the foothills of the Pálava Hills, but also thanks to its builders, especially the Lords of Dittrichstein, who owned the Mikulov estates from 1575 up to 1945. The main dominant feature of the town is the Late-Baroque chateau with gardens, the former seat of the Olomouc Bishop and Cardinal Francis Dittrichstein. It was him who turned Mikulov into a flowering town with a rich cultural and political life. Today the chateau houses valuable museum

collections with a unique wine-growing exposition and a giant barrel. The second dominant feature of the town, which lures the arriving visitors already from far away, is the impressive Holy Hill (Svatý kopeček). On the hill1 stands the Baroque pilgrimage chapel of St. Sebastian, prismatic belfry and the Grave of God. Rising up to the popular pilgrimage site from the town is the steep Way of the Cross, lined with tetrahedral chapels with Baroque sculptures and paintings. A significant church building is the medieval church of St. Wenceslas equipped in Baroque style situated on the south-eastern slope

Ps 117,1 of Zámecký Hill and the Loretta church of St. Anne on the square, founded in 1623 as the oldest Loretta in Bohemian countries. After the fire the torso of the church was turned into the DietrichsteinCrypt, which is accessible to the public. An excellent example of Moravian Peak-Baroque art is the monumental column of the Holy Trinity on the square. Found in Komenského Street are the Piarist College, school and the church of St. John the Baptist, established by Cardinal Dietrichsteinas the oldest church college in Central Europe. The local high school, founded in 1631, exists up to the present day.

p Mikulov – Church of St. Anne with the DietrichsteinCrypt

n Church of St. Anne with the DietrichsteinCrypt Vrchlického ul., Mikulov n Piarist College with the church of St. John the Baptist Komenského ul., Mikulov n Church of St. Wenceslas Kostelní nám., Mikulov Tel.: +420 519 510 309 e-mail: info@kapitulamikulov.cz http://www.kapitulamikulov.cz

p Mikulov – Holy Hill q Peace Memorial Mohyla Míru

Even though we would like to, we can only introduce a mere fraction of the extensive wealth of church monuments. Let’s mention at least briefly other village churches and town churches, chapels and Ways of the Cross, way-side columns, crosses, sculptures and stones of conciliation, which you will find in all the nooks of Southern Moravia. The history of art may have forgotten about many of them, but they still are kept alive in folk songs – and there are hundreds and thousands of them sung in Moravia!

Even in the sunny land of wine there are places, where every song just freezes on the lips – for example on the undulating hillocks east of Brno, where on 2nd December 1805 one of the most famous Napoleonic battles, the Battle of Austerlitz, took place. On the highest point of Prace knoll, in the place of the decisive fights, for almost a hundred years the Peace Memorial Mohyla Míru has stood, a stone chapel resembling with its shape ancient Slavonic tumulus’s, built in the widespread steppes on the east. The remains

of the fallen, found on the battleground, are occasionally buried into the local underground ossuary. The initiator of the structure, which became a dominant feature of the Austerlitz battlefield and at the same time a timeless memento of all wars, was Brno priest Alois Slovák, who didn’t perceive the former battleground as the field of eternal glory, but as a cemetery of thousands of common people. Mohyla Míru at the same time represents a unique Peace Memorial, one of the oldest in Central Europe.

n Mohyla Míru Museum of the Brno District 664 58 Prace Tel.: +420 544 244 724 e-mail: muzeum@brnenska.cz http://www.muzeumbrnenska.cz

Modern Church Monuments

Cantate Domino

Holy places, sanctuaries, churches and houses of prayer, as old as mankind itself, had over the centuries many faces. Sometimes church architecture governed the character of entire architecture, and in other times it was subdued by the social regime merely surviving. However, the oldest architectural theme still provokes authors by its uniqueness and inspires them to create unusual designs. Basic disposition, internal layout, a number of symbolic features as well as interior equipment of churches was for many centuries influenced by unchanging liturgy. The crucial change was brought by the 2nd Vatican Council (1962–1965), the most significant event in the life of the Catholic Church in the 20th century. In all sections of liturgy national language has prevailed, the pulpit was replaced by reading stands and masses began to be celebrated “facing the people”. Therefore the new altars – Eucharistic tables were created, which we can today see in the majority of churches. Church architecture responded to this change so dynamically, that it overcame all expectations. A number of buildings were created, in a high standard from the point of view of the architectural concept and urban incorporation, as well as the interior design and construction concept. Thanks to the higher number of believers in various church communities the absolute majority of new chapels and churches in the Czech Republic were built just in Moravia. Unique due to its time of creation is the chapel of St. Joseph in Senetářov. Whilst the majority of modern monuments were created only after 1990, the

p Břeclav – Church of St. Wenceslas q Hustopeče – Church of St. Wenceslas and of St. Agnes of Bohemia

Senetářov church has been used already since 1971, in the Normalisation period. The project was carried out by the famous Brno architect Ludvík Kolek, he is also the author of the churches in Břeclav and Hustopeče, who found his inspiration in the church works of the French architect Le Corbusier. A dignified substitute for the original Baroque church, destroyed during an air raid in 1944, is the modern church of St. Wenceslas in Břeclav. In its underground accessible to the public are the excavated foundations of the original Romanesque sanctuary. The Gothic church in Hustopeče also suffered damage during the war; in 1961 the original church, after the tower collapsed, was pulled downed and in 1994 the Brno Bishop consecrated the church of St. Wenceslas and of St. Agnes of Bohemia. An interesting two-storeyed building built on the spiral layout, demonstrates the resurrection of Christ. Incorporated in the interior are copies of preserved

architectural elements of the old church, the top of the tower is decorated by the stylised crown of St. Wenceslas. In Brno-Žabovřesky stands the church of the Virgin Mary Helper of the Christians, its slim white tower and uncovered bells after its consecration in 1995 became the dominant feature of the city quarter. It also houses the Salesian Youth Centre, which operates as a leisure centre. An interesting building from the point of view of architecture as well as locality is the chapel of the Finding of the Holy Cross in Chudčice; found nearby are Three Crosses, a mystic cult site known already from the Palaeolithic period. Worth mentioning from other modern church monuments are also the church of the Virgin Mary in Louka near Blatnice, the chapel of St. Florian and the Virgin Mary in Příbram, the chapel of St. Anthony of Paduan in Rozseč nad Kunštátem and the church of St. John of Nepomuk in Žádovice near Hodonín.

q The presbytery of the church of Sts. Peter and Paul in Jedovnice thanks to its artistic quality remains up to the present day as an unequalled and impressive conception, on which participated the sculptor Jan Koblasa and the painter Mikuláš Medek in the 1960’s.

canticum novum

Ps 96,1

p Šošůvka – Church of St. Wenceslas and of St. Agnes

p Senetářov – Chapel of St. Joseph p Příbram – Chapel of St. Florian and the Virgin Mary n Church of the Virgin Mary Helper of the Christians and the Salesian Youth Centre Foerstrova ul., Brno Tel.: +420 541 213 110 e-mail: brnozab@volny.cz n Church of St. Wenceslas Masarykovo nám., Břeclav Tel.: +420 519 371 413 n Church of St. Wenceslas and of St. Agnes of Bohemia Masarykovo nám., Hustopeče Tel.: +420 519 412 027 e-mail: fu.hustopece@tiscali.cz http://farnost-hustopece.zde.cz n Chapel of the Finding of the Holy Cross Chudčice Tel.: +420 549 420 206 e-mail: farnost.vev.bityska @seznam.cz n Church of Sts. Peter and Paul Jedovnice Tel.: +420 516 442 221

n Church of the Virgin Mary Louka Tel.: +420 518 338 132 n Chapel of St. Florian and the Virgin Mary Příbram Tel.: +420 546 450 301 n Chapel of St. Anthony of Paduan Rozseč nad Kunštátem Tel.: +420 516 470 622 n Chapel of St. Joseph Senetářov Tel.: +420 516 442 221 n Church of St. Wenceslas and of St. Agnes Šošůvka Tel.: +420 516 435 374 n Church of St. John of Nepomuk Žádovice Tel.: +420 518 612 201

Contemporary life of the Christian Churches Similarly as in the buildings of modern churches the tradition of the cathedral builders is still alive, as well as the church communities. The churches are still the places, where the believers meet for common gatherings and the active life of the Churches finds its expression also in the activities, which do not seem to be linked with the church memorials. Let’s take the activities of the Catholic Church as an example. The actual pastoral activities are not held only in the churches, but also for instance in the hospitals. A lot of attention is paid to the families, this is especially the work of the Centre for a Family and Social Care, which organises holidays for families with children, mother clubs, seminars about child-raising and marriage, weekends for fathers with children, weekends for mums, programmes for single mothers with children, senior-club, programmes for couples without children or the Day for the Family. They do not forget about youth and students either. The Churches establish elementary and secondary schools and they care about the leisure of children; sporting and socialising is organised within the framework of the youth centres (oratories), under the leadership of the community of St. Francis Salesian (Salesians of Don Bosco) in Brno-Žabovřesky and Brno-Líšeň. A traditional area, which is in the centre of attention of the Church, is charity, carried out especially by the Diocesan Charity Brno. Its work begins with help for the sick, handicapped, social care, help for mothers in distress, for homeless, immigrants and refugees, and it ends with organising humanitarian aid abroad. And one interesting thing to add: the only local Christian radio station called Radio Proglas operates just in Brno.

Shalom!

‫ברובים הכאים‬

Despite the fact that the Jews have been living in the Czech countries for more than a thousand years and Jewish monuments became an indivisible part of the culture of the Czech Republic, discovering them still retains an attractive mystery, slightly spiced up with curiosity and a lack of knowledge. No wonder – the monuments reminding us of the most significant minor community were for several decades purposely liquidated, and so the world of Jewish traditions and customs is for the common

person still full of surprises and interesting discoveries. On top of that each ghetto, synagogue, cemetery and house still retain a tragic message, alive even sixty years after Shoa – holocaust. The first mention about Jewish salesmen on the Moravian marketplaces we can find in the socalled Raffelstetten Custom Document dating from 903–906. The oldest locally proved mention about Jewish settlement is then connected with the year 1067, when according to Kosma’s Bohemian

Chronicle a certain Jew Podiva founded the Podivín castle. As Moravia was for many centuries an independent country with its own administration with a natural connection to other countries of the Bohemian Crown, also the Jewish municipalities were developing under the same conditions and they were united by the same destiny. The spiritual representative of the Moravian Jews was the elected Moravian Rabbi, with the seat firstly in Ivančice, from the mid

16th century till 1851 in Mikulov, then in Boskovice and finally in Brno. Just the same as everywhere the Jews in Moravia were considerably constrained in their rights. They paid higher taxes, they had to wear a special mark on their clothes, they could do only certain jobs, they had to live in enclosed settlements – ghettos, sufficiently distant from the churches, squares and places, where the Christian religious celebrations took place. Resulting from natural and enforced differences was the intolerance of the local people against the Jews, which from time to time caused violence, pogroms and deportation from a town or the country. The Nazi “final solution of the Jewish issue” and the transports to concentration camps then set the seal on their tragic fate. Only about 10 % of the original Jewish inhabitants survived the horrors of the holocaust. The present Jewish congregation in Brno unites less than three hundred people, mostly seniors, living within the entire Southern Moravia. Besides the satisfaction of the religious needs of the believers its main objective is the effort for preservation of Jewish traditions and care after the heritage of their predecessors. However, the character of the Jewish settlement in Southern Moravia is unique. When King Ladislav Pohrobek in 1454 banished Jews from the royal towns of Brno, Znojmo, Olomouc and Uničov, they settled down in numerous smaller towns and countrytowns of Southern Moravia. Up to the present day we can visit fifty Jewish quarters, fortyfive synagogues and seventyfive Jewish cemeteries. Let’s go through the most interesting ones.

p Hugo Haas (top on the right) with his father and brother Pavel

Famous countrymen Jewish citizens deserve their credit not only for economical, social and cultural growth of our country, but many of them became famous also abroad. Originating from Moravia are for example the predecessors of the former Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky and Italian writer Alberto Moravia. Let’s remember the family of industrialists Löw-Beer of Svitávka, the excellent composer of film music Erich Wolfgang Korngold, the spiritual father of psychoanalysis Sigmund Freud, who comes from Příbor in Northern Moravia, or the composer Gustav Mahler, who was born in Kaliště near Jihlava. Among the most famous personalities are also the Brno countrymen Hugo Haas (1901–1968), a popular Czech actor, scriptwriter, director and producer from the 1930’s, and his brother, composer Pavel Haas, who died in 1944 in Oswiecim.

Boskovice – Life behind the Gate

‫הזהּ דומה לפּרוזדור‬

p Synagogue on Trapl Street What is it? Yeshiva – higher religious school, preparing students mostly to become Rabbis Mikve – ritual cleaning bath with natural clean water Rabbi – priest; religious and justice authority in Jewish community Synagogue – temple; spiritual centre of each Jewish community, where common prayers are held Shoa – holocaust, the term given for the systematic murder of six million Jews by Nazis during the Second World War Talmud – book summarising nearly the entire Jewish verbal tradition Torah – five books of Moses in the shape of a parchment scroll, from which an appropriate paragraph is read during a ceremony Mezuzah – a case for the scroll, placed on the right side of the doorpost in Jewish houses

The old Jewish quarter with a synagogue, spa and cemetery in Boskovice is one of the most complete and bestpreserved monuments of Jewish culture not only in Southern Moravia, but also within the entire Czech Republic. On top of that out of all the Jewish communities in Moravia only the Boskovice and Holešov communities were administratively independent as small “towns within towns”. The former ghetto is legally protected as a unique urban complex. The first mention about the Boskovice Jews dates back to the first half of the 14th century, although the enclosed Jewish town was established only after 1727. Two, later three gates and several chains separated it from the rest of the town. In the corner of the parish garden in Traplova Street you can still see an iron stick, to which a wire was connected, symbolically separating the ghetto from other parts of the town. The separation of the Jewish quarter from the Christian parts of the town had to be carried out every night, on Saturdays, not to disturb Jewish celebrations, on Sundays, so the ghetto

p Interior of the synagogue q Symbol of separation – a pole for attaching a chain

inhabitants didn’t disturb the Christian celebrations just as well, and also during the religious significant days of both Churches. The architecturally limited space of the Jewish ghetto led to many tragedies: the quarter was burned down several times, at the beginning of the 18th century its inhabitants were struck by the plague epidemic. Despite that in the mid 19th century living in circa hundred and fifty houses were more than two thousand Jews, which represented one third of Boskovice population.

Just like other Jews from the surroundings also the local people were in 1942 deported to concentration camps, from which only fourteen persons returned. The Jewish community in Boskovice, one of the biggest in Moravia, was well-known as a centre of the significant Talmudists, who taught at the local famous Yeshiva. The most famous was the scholar Rabbi Samuel ha-Levi Kolin, author of Machacit ha-Shekel, who is buried at the local Jewish cemetery. Out of other significant personalities we have to mention the writer

‫העולם‬ Hermann Ungar, professor of history Max Eisler, eye doctor Abraham Albert Ticho and the soloist of the Brno Theatre Marie Fialová. Although a number of historically valuable buildings were destroyed for ever, the Jewish quarter still creates an independent and very impressive architectural complex. The biggest attention is rightfully paid to the so-called Greater Synagogue in Traplova Street, rebuilt in 1698 from an older temple, which after extensive reconstruction of valuable frescoes houses the Boskovice Jewish Museum. Situated on the western outskirts of the town is the Jewish cemetery dating from the 16th century, the third largest in the Czech

Republic. The cemetery is open occasionally. In addition, through the entire Jewish town leads an Educational Trail with twenty-seven stations. Besides the synagogue you can also have a look at almost eighty preserved houses including the house of the Rabbi and school, fountain, shops, historic gate and other places of interest. The town with ten thousand inhabitants north of Brno doesn’t offer only a stroll through the picturesque Jewish quarter. You can also visit the Imperial-style chateau, museum or the Gothic castle ruins. Held here every year in summer is the Festival Boskovice, a four-day festival of music, theatre groups, films and exhibitions, with the main initiative of saving the local former ghetto. Fans of active recreation will find a lot of entertainment behind the open gates of the Červená Zahrada (Red Garden) Recreation Complex, in nearby Wild West town or on the golf course in Kořenec.

p Jewish Gate in Plačkova Street

p Jewish cemetery

p Decorative grill of the women’s gallery in the synagogue

n Boskovice Town Museum, exposition in the synagogue Hradní 1, 680 01 Boskovice Tel.: +420 526 452 077 e-mail: muzeum@boskovice.cz http://www.boskovice.cz/kultura/muzeum/muzeum.htm

Jewish Ghetto in Třebíč Developing for many centuries in a limited space enclosed between rocks, river and other Christian houses was the ghetto, which today represents the best preserved Jewish quarter not only in the Czech Republic, but probably in entire Europe. The preserved quarter includes a hundred and twenty-three houses, two synagogues, two main streets, quay and countless narrow streets, public passages and open areas. Verandas, balconies, wine bars, coffee shops and numerous shops complement the original atmosphere. Together with the nearby Romanesque-Gothic basilica of St. Procopius and one of the most beautiful and best maintained Jewish cemeteries in Moravia the Ghetto Zámostí in Třebíč was in 2003 listed into the UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage List.

Jewish Quarters, Synagogues and Cemeteries

‫למעלה ממד‬

Jehuda Löw ben Becalel (1512–1609) He worked for twenty years as a Moravian Rabbi in Mikulov, however, he became more famous in Prague, where in 1573 he became the rector of the local Talmud School. He became famous literally around the whole world as the creator of the mysterious Golem, a weird horrible being made from burned clay. Yes, we really are honoured to meet Rabbi Löw, one of the greatest Jewish thinkers and a teacher of several excellent scholars in his period. Whilst Golem according to the historic sources still rests somewhere in the attic of one of the Prague synagogues, the tombstone of Rabbi Löw is one of the most visited graves in the Prague Old Jewish Cemetery.

p Slavkov u Brna – Synagogue

p Brno – interior of the Agudas Achim synagogue

We will begin our journey around the Jewish monuments in Brno. When the first fortification walls were built at the beginning of the 13th century, one of the five town gates was named Jewish. The reason was simple: right next to it under the protection of the huge stone walls was the Jewish settlement. There is no sign of it today; on its site you will find the Franciscan monastery with the church of St. Mary Magdalene, built probably on the foundations of the medieval synagogue. Today’s temple at Skořepka, the only synagogue in Moravia and Silesia, which serves its original purpose, was built between 1934–1936 in Functionalistic style for the orthodox association Agudas Achim. The Jewish cemetery in Židenice, freely accessible, founded in 1852, is with 3 hectares of land the largest in entire Moravia. It is one of the best-preserved burial places in the Czech Republic, remarkable also due to the fact that it survived the Second World War without

damage. Today it contains circa eleven thousand graves with nine thousand tombstones, and the most visited memorial belongs to the actor Hugo Haas. Mikulov once was the spiritual, cultural and political centre of the Moravian Jews, up to the year 1851 it was the seat town of the Moravian Rabbis. The local Jewish community, up to the mid 19th century the Jewish community with the largest number of members in Moravia, had their own schools, shops, spa, houses of prayer and cemetery. Its significance is proved by the fact that in the first half of the 19th century there were twelve synagogues in Mikulov; more of them were only in the Prague Jewish community. The most important of them was the Upper Synagogue at Husova Street, a building dating from 1550, which today houses a permanent exposition depicting the life of Jews in Mikulov. Remaining from the former ghetto after destructive fires and demolishing of houses is only one quarter

of the original buildings including the boys’ school, old people’s home or the medieval water tank in the basement of the house at Husova Street, which probably served for a ritual bath. An Educational Trail with thirteen stations leads visitors also to the extremely valuable cemetery, where found are graves of the famous educated Moravian q Mikulov – Jewish cemetery

Rabbis and which is the destination of pilgrims from all over the world. Situated near Mikulov is Břeclav, where preserved from the original Jewish quarter are circa twenty houses and cemetery. In 1868 on the site of the former temple a new NeoRomanesque synagogue was built, today used for cultural and social purposes. The Jewish quarter in Lomnice is also remarkable, it is an enclosed urban complex with a small square, a re-established Baroque synagogue and cemetery. The quarter was built at the beginning of the 18th century by the Serény family for the summoned Jewish families. The picturesque Jewish quarters with accessible synagogues and maintained cemeteries we can also find in many other towns of Southern Moravia. For example in Dolní Kounice there is the Baroque synagogue dating from 1652–1653, one of the oldest and most valuable buildings of its kind in Moravia. In

‫דע מה‬

n Brno Synagogue Agudas Achim Skořepka 13, Brno

Erich Wolfgang Korngold (1897–1957) The famous composer of Jewish origin was born in Brno, but his family soon moved to Vienna. The introduction of his pantomime Schneemann (Snowman) on the stage of the Vienna Court Opera, when the author was only 13 years old, was a sensation. He wrote several operas, from which especially the most famous Dead Town had a triumphant journey through all the world opera houses. In 1938 he emigrated to the USA and he became a music star of film studios in Hollywood. He composed music for twenty-two movies including such classics, as The Lord of the Seven Seas or the Adventures of Robin Hood. Twice he received the Film Academy Award – Oscar.

Ceremonial hall and the Jewish cemetery Nezamyslova 27, Brno Tel.: +420 545244 710 Fax: +420 545 213 803 e-mail: zob@zob.cz http://www.zob.cz

p Břeclav – the synagogue interior

nearby Ivančice, which became famous more as the birthplace of the well-known Art-Nouveau painter Alfons Mucha, you certainly shouldn’t forget to visit the cemetery from the 16th century, where the oldest legible tombstone

has the year 1552. Whilst in Strážnice you will find only one Moravian synagogue, surrounded by a cemetery, in Vyškov awaiting you is another unique landmark: the Neo-Romanesque temple, today a house of prayer of the Hussite Church, situated directly on the main square. The small museum expositions are waiting for you in the entrance hall of the NeoRomanesque synagogue in Slavkov u Brna or in the ceremonial hall at the Jewish cemetery in Podivín, the place mentioned in connection with Jewish settlement already in 1063.

n Břeclav Synagogue – ul. U tržiště Muzeum and Gallery Břeclav Tel.: +420 519 371 488 Fax: +420 519 322 878 e-mail: bvmuz@bvnet.cz http://www.breclav-city.cz/muzeum Hřbitov – Kupkova 13 n Dolní Kounice Synagogue – ul. U Synagogy Hřbitov – Trboušanská ul. n Ivančice Synagogue – J. Vávry 26 Ceremonial hall and the Jewish cemetery – Mřenkova ul. n Lomnice Synagogue – Židovské náměstí n Mikulov Upper Synagogue – Husova 13 Ceremonial hall and the Jewish cemetery – Hřbitovní nám. 6 Jewish quarter – Husova, Zámecká, A. Muchy, U Staré brány, Na Jámě n Podivín Ceremonial hall and the Jewish cemetery – Palackého ul. n Slavkov u Brna Synagogue – ul. U Synagogy n Strážnice Synagogue – Sadová ul. Cemetery – Sadová ul. n Vyškov Synagogue – Masarykovo nám. 15 Cemetery – Kroměřížská 12

p Tugendhat Villa, the most significant European building by the architect Ludwig Miese van der Rohe from 1930, listed in the UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage List, was created thanks to the Jewish industrialists. In 1928 Greta Löw-Beer got the land, on which the famous villa stands, as the dowry for her marriage with Fritz Tugendhat.

Southern Moravia – Region of Pilgrims and Roads

Thanks to its location Southern Moravia already a thousand years ago had become the significant crossroads of business routes. This is where people from all parts of Europe were meeting, the various influences were mixed and the unique culture of the hospitable region, opened to all pilgrims, was created. Just here, on the confluence of ten rivers, you can discover an unbelievable number of cultural historic monuments, picturesque countryside, excellent wine, cultural traditions of Sts. Cyril and Methodius’s education as well as fabulous cuisine. And should the symbol of Southern Moravia be just wine, then the five tourist regions can find its symbol in the leaf of vine – the magic pentagon, symbolising many delights: Znojmo Region and Podyjí Sweet and juicy fruit from the local orchards, breathtaking nature and above all vineyards and excellent wines of diverse styles – dry, sweet, white, red and pink, brisk and light, vigorous and as tender as a caress. Follow the unique journey through the famous vineyards and picturesque wine cellars as far as to the historic town of Znojmo, the town of kings, wine and historic traditions. Off we go to page 20.

Brno and environs The city situated on the edge between the picturesque lowlands and romantic peaks of the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, the centre of the Southern Moravia Region and at the same time the second largest city in the Czech Republic, being in addition the city of monasteries – there is no place where you could find more of them than just here. Towering above the medieval city centre is the Bishop’s Residence with cathedral, where the bell rings noon one hour earlier. Why? For the answer look at page 6.

Moravian Karst and its surroundings The romantic karst countryside with beautiful nature and more than a thousand caves tempts visitors into discovering the fragile beauty of the underground world and subterranean rivers. However, here you can discover also the magnificent Baroque churches, monumental monasteries and famous pilgrimage destinations with more than a thousandyear long tradition. This is where the ingenious architect Giovanni Blasius Santini-Aichel created a masterpiece, beyond all your expectations. Have a look at page 14.

Pálava and the Lednice–Valtice Composed Area In the southern-most corner of Moravia lies the enchanting land of swamp forests, charming chateaux, impressive park buildings, colonnades, sculptures and forest churches – the Lednice-Valtice Composed Area, listed in the UNESCO Heritage List as the largest composed landscape in the world. Try to accept our invitation to Mikulov too, the former spiritual, cultural and political centre of the Moravian Jews, and open page 28.

Moravian Slovakia A region of sun and folklore, where one celebration follows the other. Lying open in front of you is the colourful world of folk songs, folk costumes, dances, festivals and traditional arts and crafts, mouth-watering gourmet delicacies and excellent wine – nevertheless it also is a region of roads and pilgrimage destinations, a region of ancient processions and faith, which laid its roots many centuries ago. Come and join us for the pilgrimage – for instance on page 12.

Tourist programmes Being a pilgrim in South Moravia Monday • Arrival to Brno • Brno – a sightseeing tour through the monuments and the city centre – the cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul – churches in Brno city centre – churches of St. Thomas, of St. James, of St. Michael, of Sts. John, of St. Joseph, of St. Mary Magdalene and of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – the church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the Old Town of Brno – for those who are interested a visit to the Jewish cemetery, a stop by a synagogue • accommodation in Brno

The most beautiful Jewish monuments Friday • arrival with stop in Ivančice, a visit to the local Jewish cemetery • arrival to Brno, a visit to the Jewish cemetery, a stop by the synagogue • a sightseeing tour through Špilberk castle and the Museum of the City of Brno expositions: – From Renaissance to Modern Art (copies of sculptures from the former Jewish Gate) – For New Brno (documenting the functionalist church monuments – Agudas Achim synagogue) • A sightseeing tour through Tugendhat Villa – UNESCO Heritage property • accommodation in Brno Saturday • a visit to the morning gathering in the Brno synagogue • departure to Boskovice, a sightseeing tour through the Jewish town, synagogue and cemetery • the possibility to go for a sightseeing tour to Boskovice chateau and castle • departure to Mikulov, dinner and a visit to a wine cellar with tasting of wines from the Mikulov winegrowing region, accommodation Sunday • a visit to the synagogue and cemetery in Mikulov, a sightseeing tour through the Jewish quarter • the possibility to go for a sightseeing tour to Mikulov chateau with the wine-growing exposition • in the afternoon a visit to the Lednice-Valtice Composed Area – UNESCO Heritage property (chateaux in Lednice and in Valtice, chateau parks, Janohrad imitation castle ruins, colonnade at Rajstna, Rendez-vous, Three Graces) • departure, on the way a visit to the synagogue and cemetery in Břeclav

Tuesday • Round trip tour through the region north of Brno • Předklášteří – monastery Porta coeli and the Podhorácké Museum exposition – Museum of the Brno Region • Lomnice – Jewish cemetery • Boskovice – a sightseeing tour through the town – Jewish town with synagogue and cemetery – the church of St. James – chateau – for those who are interested a trip to the castle ruins • Sloup – a visit to the pilgrimage church of the Virgin Mary of Sorrow • Senetářov – a visit to the modern church of St. Joseph • Křtiny – a visit to the pilgrimage church of the Name of the Virgin Mary • Vranov u Brno – a visit to the Pauluan monastery with the pilgrimage church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary • return to Brno, accommodation, for those who are interested, theatre performance or concert in the evening Wednesday • Round trip tour through the region south of Brno • Ivančice – a sightseeing tour through the town, Jewish cemetery, remains of the Brother’s Congregation • Řeznovice – a visit to the Romanesque church of Sts. Peter and Paul • Moravský Krumlov – a visit to the chateau (Slavonic Epic by A. Mucha), a stroll to the chapel of St. Florian • Dolní Kounice – a sightseeing tour through the town, Jewish cemetery, monastery Rosa coeli • A sightseeing tour through the Austerlitz Battlefield – Mohyla Míru Peace Memorial – a visit to the chapel and exposition of the Napoleonic war and the Czech Land – Žuráň and Santon Knolls – Old Post Office – Slavkov u Brna – chateau, the church of the Resurrection of the Lord • accommodation in Slavkov u Brno, evening programme according to up-to-date offer Thursday • departure to Rajhrad, Benedictine monastery with the church of Sts. Peter and Paul • Kurdějov – a visit to the fortified church of St. John the Baptist • Hustopeče – a visit to the modern church of St. Wenceslas and St. Agnes of Bohemia, a tour through the wine-growing exposition possible

• Mikulčice – Memorial to Great Moravia with an exposition and sightseeing tour • Břeclav – a visit to the modern church of St. Wenceslas • Poštorná – a visit to the church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary • departure to Mikulov, accommodation, a visit to a wine cellar with tasting wines form the Mikulov winegrowing region Friday • Mikulov – a sightseeing tour through the monuments and town – the church of St. Anne with the Dietrichstein Tomb, the church of St. Wenceslas and the church of St. John the Baptist with the Piarist College – a sightseeing tour through the chateau with the wine-growing exposition – a stroll through the Jewish town with a synagogue and Jewish cemetery – a walk to the Holy Hill (Svatý Kopeček) above Mikulov • for those who are interested a hike to Pálava (UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Dívčí Hrady castles and Sirotčí hrádek castle, Educational Trail) • accommodation in Mikulov, evening programme according to the up-to-date offer Saturday • The Lednice-Valtice Composed Area – UNESCO Heritage property – chateau in Lednice – Lednice chateau park with a greenhouse, minaret and Janohrad imitation castle ruins – a stroll through the Lednice-Valtice Composed Area: Apollo’s Temple, Three Graces, Rendezvous – Diana’s Temple – chateau in Valtice with the exposition of the National Salon of Wines – the church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in Valtice – a stroll along the Educational Wine-growing Trail with a stop by the colonnade at Rajstna • in the evening departure to Znojmo, accommodation and a visit to the wine cellar with tasting wines from the Znojmo wine-growing region Sunday • Znojmo – a visit to a divine service in a selected temple • a sightseeing tour through monuments and town – Znojmo castle with the rotunda of the Virgin Mary and of St. Catherine – churches of St. Nicholas, St. Michael, St. John the Baptist with the Capuchin monastery, the church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross with the Dominican monastery – a sightseeing tour through the Znojmo underground – a trip to Hradiště, a visit to the church of St. Hippolytus with a monastery – Louka monastery – a sightseeing tour through the gallery and the church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Wenceslas with the Romanesque-Gothic crypt, wine-growing exposition • Hluboké Mašůvky – pilgrimage site with the church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary • possibility to visit Bítov castle or the chateau in Vranov nad Dyjí • departure

Tourist Information Centres Blansko information office “Blanka” Rožmitálova 6, 678 01 Blansko Tel.: +420 516 410 470, Fax: +420 516 410 480 Email: info@info.bk.cz http://www.blansko.cz/blanka

Cultural and information centre Ivančice Palackého nám. 12, 664 91 Ivančice Tel.: +420 546 451 870, Fax: +420 546 451 870 e-mail: kic@selfnet.cz http://www.muiv.cz

Central information service Skalní mlýn Skalní mlýn 65, 678 25 Blansko-Skalní mlýn Tel.: +420 516 410 024, +420 516 413 575 Fax: +420 516 413 579 e-mail: uismk@cavemk.cz http://www.cavemk.cz

Tourist information centre Kyjov Komenského 616, 697 01 Kyjov Tel.: +420 518 611 711, +420 518 613 302 Fax: +420 518 612 357 e-mail: info@chata.cz, region@region-kyjov.cz http://www.kyjov.com

Information centre of the town of Strážnice Předměstí 399, 696 02 Strážnice Tel.: +420 518 332 184, Fax: +420 518 332 067 e-mail: irra@irra.cz, ic.straznice@post.cz http://www.irra.cz

Town information centre Boskovice Masarykovo nám. 1, 680 01 Boskovice Tel.: +420 516 453 253, Fax: +420 516 453 253 e-mail: informace@boskovice.cz http://www.boskovice.cz/mis

Tourist information centre Lednice Zámecké nám. 28, 691 44 Lednice Tel.: +420 519 340 986, Fax: +420 519 340 986 e-mail: tic@lednice.cz http://www.lednice.cz

Tourist information centre Valtice Nám. Svobody 4, 691 42 Valtice Tel.: +420 519 352 978, Fax: +420 519 352 977 e-mail: tic.info@radnice-valtice.cz http://www.valtice.cz

Cultural and information centre of the towof Brno Radnická 8, 602 00 Brno Tel.: +420 542 211 090, Fax: +420 542 210 758 e-mail: info@kicbrno.cz http://www.kultura-brno.cz

Tourist information centre Mikulov Náměstí 7, 692 01 Mikulov Tel.: +420 519 512 200, Fax: +420 519 510 855 e-mail: tic@mikulov.cz http://www.mikulov.cz

Information centre Velké Pavlovice Hlavní 9, 691 06 Velké Pavlovice Tel.: +420 519 429 337, Fax: +420 519 429 337 e-mail: infocentrum@velke-pavlovice.cz http://www.velke-pavlovice.cz

Tourist information centre Břeclav Sady 28. října 3, 690 02 Břeclav Tel.: +420 519 326 900, Fax: +420 519 326 900 e-mail: info@breclav.cz, info@breclav-city.cz http://www.breclav-city.cz

Town cultural and information centre Miroslav Nám. Svobody 13, 671 72 Miroslav Tel.: +420 515 333 201, Fax: +420 515 333 608 e-mail: mumiroslav@oknet.cz http://www.mesto-miroslav.cz

Information centre Bata Canal Zámecká 2, 698 01 Veselí nad Moravou Tel.: +420 518 325 330, Fax: +420 518 325 330 e-mail: abk@batacanal.cz http://www.batacanal.cz

Visitors’ centre of the Podyjí National Park Administration of the Podyjí National Park 671 02 Čížov Tel.: +420 515 291 630 e-mail: infocentrum@nppodyji.cz http://www.nppodyji.cz

Tourist information centre Moravský Krumlov Klášterní nám. 125, 672 01 Moravský Krumlov Tel.: +420 515 324 115, Fax: +420 515 324 115 e-mail: morkrum.info@volny.cz http://www.moravsky-krumlov.cz

Education and information centre White Carpathiens Bartolomějské nám. 47, 698 01 Veselí nad Moravou Tel.: +420 518 322 545, Fax: +420 518 324 792 e-mail: visbk@bilekarpaty.cz http://www.bilekarpaty.cz/vis

Cultural and information centre Oslavany Široká 2, Dělnický dům, 664 12 Oslavany Tel.: +420 546 423 283, +420 604 108 641 Fax: +420 546 418 410 e-mail: oslavany@mboxr.cz http://www.oslavany-mesto.cz

Tourist information centre of the Vranov region Náměstí 47, 671 03 Vranov nad Dyjí Tel.: +420 515 296 285, Fax: +420 515 296 285 e-mail: infocentrumvnd@volny.cz

Cultural and information centre Dolní Kounice Masarykovo nám. 2, 664 64 Dolní Kounice Tel.: +420 546 420 005, Fax: +420 546 421 304 e-mail: kic.kounice@quick.cz http://www.dolnikounice.cz Information centre of the town Hodonín Velkomoravská 5, 695 35 Hodonín Tel.: +420 518 352 577, +420 518 351 437 Fax: +420 518 352 577 e-mail: info@muhodonin.cz http://www.hodonin.com Tourist information centre of the Hustopeče region Dukelské nám. 23, Dům „U synků“ 693 01 Hustopeče Tel.: +420 519 412 909, Fax: +420 519 412 909 e-mail: info@hustopecsko.net http://www.hustopecsko.net

Information centre Ostrov u Macochy Ostrov u Macochy 107, 679 14 Ostrov u Macochy Tel.: +420 516 444 328 e-mail: obec@ostrovumacochy.cz

Information centre Sloup Wankelovo nám. 1, 679 13 Sloup Tel.: +420 516 435 237, +420 516 436 016 Fax: +420 516 435 237 e-mail: ousloup@bknet.cz http://www.address.cz/sloup

Tourist information centre Vyškov Masarykovo nám. 1, 682 01 Vyškov Tel.: +420 517 301 313-5, Fax: +420 517 301 316 e-mail: infocentrum@meuvyskov.cz http://www.vyskov-mesto.cz

Tourist information centre Pasohlávky Pasohlávky, 691 22 Pasohlávky Tel.: +420 519 427 624, Fax: +420 519 427 624 e-mail: info@pasohlavky.cz, tic@pasohlavky.cz http://www.pasohlavky.cz

Visitors’ centre of the Podyjí National Park Administration of the Podyjí National Park Na Vyhlídce 5, 669 02 Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 226 722, Fax: +420 515 221 115 e-mail: info@nppodyji.cz http://www.nppodyji.cz

Information Regional Centre AUSTERLITZ Palackého nám. 1, 684 01 Slavkov u Brna Tel.: +420 544 220 988, Fax: +420 544 220 988 e-mail: info.austerlitz@infos.cz http://www.slavkov.cz

Tourist information centre Znojmo Obroková 10, 669 01 Znojmo Tel.: +420 515 222 552, Fax: +420 515 222 552 e-mail: tic@beseda.znojmo.cz http://www.znojmocity.cz

NOTE: When visiting churches, chapels and monasteries it is necessary to respect their dignity and religious significance. Visitors have to be dressed appropriately, they are not allowed to speak loudly and they can enter only the premises accessible to the public. When entering the Christian churches and chapels men are to take off their hats or caps, on the contrary when visiting the Jewish monuments, it is appropriate to cover your head. Some monuments do not provide visitors’ service and they can be visited only by arrangement. In the majority of interiors it is not allowed to take photographs. For The Southern Moravia Region, Žerotínovo nám. 3/5, 601 82 Brno produced by Sdružení Gandalf, Brno, tel. +420 543 242 145 in co-operation with Agentura Bravissimo, Znojmo, tel.: +420 515 227 788 • Texts: Mgr. Eva Obůrková • Translatations: Ing. Lucie Šebelová • Introduction photographs of the chapters: JAM studio – Aleš Jedounek a Vít Mádr (thanks for co-operation with photo-procesing: Tomáš, Kristýna, Dan, Veronika and Danuše) • Photographs: Aerofot – Ing. Jan Vondra, Antonín Cvak, Jiří Eisenbruk, Lenka Fojtíková, Jan Halady, Petr Lazárek, Oto Mašek, Miroslav Ondejčík, Ivo Přeček, Jiří Sláma, Roman Soukup, Milan Strnad, Libor Teplý, Luboš Vitanovský • Archives: Sdružení Gandalf, Agentura Bravissimo, The Southern Moravia Region, Brno City Museum, Moravian Museum, Museum of Arts Olomouc, Premonstratensian Monastery in Strahov (Prague) • Thanks to: Brno Bishopric, Jewish Community Brno, Zdeněk Procházka, Václav Slouk, Moše Koller, Jewish Culture Friends Society in Mikulov • Scan: Artax, s.r.o. • Imprimerie: Reproprint, s.r.o. NOT FOR SALE

Southern Moravia Region Žerotínovo náměstí 3/5, 601 82 Brno Tel.: +420 541 651 111 Fax: +420 541 651 209 e-mail: podatelna@kr-jihomoravsky.cz www.kr-jihomoravsky.cz, www.jizni-morava.cz