Çorraj the green hilltop village
First Impressions 2
Çorraj, like Fterrë, sits on the slope of a low but long valley where a number of ancient villages sit like stars in a constellation. That constellation was once a rich social and commercial route, the points of which moved with some frequency over the centuries, in response to forces of business and war that periodically swept the region. Like so many other villages in the region, the present-day location of Çorraj is only the most recent one, where things settled in modernity. Reflecting the long history of shared culture in the Kuç Valley, Çorraj has a documented history of coexisting religions. Also shared with so many villages of the region, Çorraj is overgrown. It hasn’t been a fully occupied, fully functioning village for twenty-five years, and even before that, in its communist period, the people there were poor and able to perform only very modest repairs on the buildings. Since then, the village has deteriorated elegantly, its raw stacked stone slipping graciously back into the earth. 3
First Impressions 2
Çorraj, like Fterrë, sits on the slope of a low but long valley where a number of ancient villages sit like stars in a constellation. That constellation was once a rich social and commercial route, the points of which moved with some frequency over the centuries, in response to forces of business and war that periodically swept the region. Like so many other villages in the region, the present-day location of Çorraj is only the most recent one, where things settled in modernity. Reflecting the long history of shared culture in the Kuç Valley, Çorraj has a documented history of coexisting religions. Also shared with so many villages of the region, Çorraj is overgrown. It hasn’t been a fully occupied, fully functioning village for twenty-five years, and even before that, in its communist period, the people there were poor and able to perform only very modest repairs on the buildings. Since then, the village has deteriorated elegantly, its raw stacked stone slipping graciously back into the earth. 3
The people & their religious coexistence
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The peacefulness of the village of Çorraj is evident in the coexistence of residents who are ChristianOrthodox and those who are Muslim. Ever since the partial conversion of residents to Islam, nearly two centuries ago, the two communities have lived in harmony. For example, it is traditional that during Easter, the whole village celebrates together, with half the food prepared according to Islam laws for the Muslims, and the other half prepared for the Christian residents (excluding the butter, eggs and meat) according to the Christian-Orthodox rules for the Easter food.
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The people & their religious coexistence
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The peacefulness of the village of Çorraj is evident in the coexistence of residents who are ChristianOrthodox and those who are Muslim. Ever since the partial conversion of residents to Islam, nearly two centuries ago, the two communities have lived in harmony. For example, it is traditional that during Easter, the whole village celebrates together, with half the food prepared according to Islam laws for the Muslims, and the other half prepared for the Christian residents (excluding the butter, eggs and meat) according to the Christian-Orthodox rules for the Easter food.
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The roots - the history 6
Surveys conducted by archaeological teams have found lytic tools dating to the Palaeolithic and Mesolithic period within Çorraj and the vicinity. The first written document (“Defteri i Sanxhakut të Delvinësë”, document no. 91), where Çorraj village is mentioned dates back to 1431. Çorraj is called “Cërnagore,” and is described as consisting of two sections, Lleshani and Çornica. The document counts seventy-four houses in total. In later written documents, from 1551 (during Ottoman rule), the village is said to have forty-four houses. According to this document, the village and its agricultural products were claimed as part of the Province of Himare, in the latter’s attempt to be connected to the alliance with the papacy in 1581 and the Russian Tzar in 1759. However, ethnographically this village is part of the lower unit of Kurvelesh.
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The roots - the history 6
Surveys conducted by archaeological teams have found lytic tools dating to the Palaeolithic and Mesolithic period within Çorraj and the vicinity. The first written document (“Defteri i Sanxhakut të Delvinësë”, document no. 91), where Çorraj village is mentioned dates back to 1431. Çorraj is called “Cërnagore,” and is described as consisting of two sections, Lleshani and Çornica. The document counts seventy-four houses in total. In later written documents, from 1551 (during Ottoman rule), the village is said to have forty-four houses. According to this document, the village and its agricultural products were claimed as part of the Province of Himare, in the latter’s attempt to be connected to the alliance with the papacy in 1581 and the Russian Tzar in 1759. However, ethnographically this village is part of the lower unit of Kurvelesh.
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The roots - the history 8
In the late eighteenth century, during the rule of Ali Pasha, part of the village population was converted to Islam. In uprisings against the Tanzimat reforms*, the village of Çorraj became a point of resistance. Residents of the village have since been very active in efforts to declare the independence of the Albanian state. *The Tanzimât reform era was characterized by various attempts to modernize the Ottoman Empire and to secure its territorial integrity against nationalist movements from within and aggressive powers from outside of the state. The reforms encouraged Ottomanism among the diverse ethnic groups of the Empire, attempting to stem the tide of nationalist movements within the Ottoman Empire. The reforms sought to grant emancipation to nonMuslim subjects of the Empire and to integrate non-Turks more thoroughly into Ottoman society by enhancing their civil liberties and granting them equality throughout the Empire.
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The roots - the history 8
In the late eighteenth century, during the rule of Ali Pasha, part of the village population was converted to Islam. In uprisings against the Tanzimat reforms*, the village of Çorraj became a point of resistance. Residents of the village have since been very active in efforts to declare the independence of the Albanian state. *The Tanzimât reform era was characterized by various attempts to modernize the Ottoman Empire and to secure its territorial integrity against nationalist movements from within and aggressive powers from outside of the state. The reforms encouraged Ottomanism among the diverse ethnic groups of the Empire, attempting to stem the tide of nationalist movements within the Ottoman Empire. The reforms sought to grant emancipation to nonMuslim subjects of the Empire and to integrate non-Turks more thoroughly into Ottoman society by enhancing their civil liberties and granting them equality throughout the Empire.
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The people - the culture 10
Residents of Çorraj are distinguished by their education and intellectual regard. Many have completed higher education and work in different state institutions. Like in the rest of the region, residents sing polyphony. The iso-polyphony song of Çorraj, is nothing unique, it has only a few minor changes to what is referred to as “Labçe” – the song of Labëria (the region). The traditional costume of Çorraj is very similar to that of other villages of Labëria, though somewhat more elaborate. Men wear a doublet, white kilts that hang below the knee, a multicolored woolen sash (predominately in red and black), traditional socks, and leather shoes with tassels. They wear a white hat and long, wide-sleeved white collarless shirts. Additionally, the village has been the site of felt production and wool processing. 11
The people - the culture 10
Residents of Çorraj are distinguished by their education and intellectual regard. Many have completed higher education and work in different state institutions. Like in the rest of the region, residents sing polyphony. The iso-polyphony song of Çorraj, is nothing unique, it has only a few minor changes to what is referred to as “Labçe” – the song of Labëria (the region). The traditional costume of Çorraj is very similar to that of other villages of Labëria, though somewhat more elaborate. Men wear a doublet, white kilts that hang below the knee, a multicolored woolen sash (predominately in red and black), traditional socks, and leather shoes with tassels. They wear a white hat and long, wide-sleeved white collarless shirts. Additionally, the village has been the site of felt production and wool processing. 11
The setting - Urban fabric
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Çorraj lies at the foot of the Mount of Vakajve and on the north side is bordered with Kuç, on its east side lies the village of Fterrë, while in the south the rock of Pollaca. The peaks surrounding the village are 1,404 meters high (Maja e Gjinnikës) and 1,112 meters (Maja e Dhrisë). Scarce lands of the countryside rise to the height of 200 meters above sea level and marine winds create a warm and stable climate. Many ruins are found in the northern part of the village, where streets are paved with cobblestone and there are churches from the medieval period, but no studies have been done yet to date them and to find the cause of the demolition and their abandonment.
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The setting - Urban fabric
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Çorraj lies at the foot of the Mount of Vakajve and on the north side is bordered with Kuç, on its east side lies the village of Fterrë, while in the south the rock of Pollaca. The peaks surrounding the village are 1,404 meters high (Maja e Gjinnikës) and 1,112 meters (Maja e Dhrisë). Scarce lands of the countryside rise to the height of 200 meters above sea level and marine winds create a warm and stable climate. Many ruins are found in the northern part of the village, where streets are paved with cobblestone and there are churches from the medieval period, but no studies have been done yet to date them and to find the cause of the demolition and their abandonment.
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The setting - Architecture
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Dwellings in the village, as well as those of the region, are built with stones from the surrounding landscape. Traditional houses are covered with stone slabs and encircled by walls inside of which farmers usually grow fruit trees and vegetables.
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The setting - Architecture
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Dwellings in the village, as well as those of the region, are built with stones from the surrounding landscape. Traditional houses are covered with stone slabs and encircled by walls inside of which farmers usually grow fruit trees and vegetables.
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Landscape of Corraj
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Landscape of Corraj
the Dwelling of Gjik Gjipali - a Culture Monument
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The Dwelling of Gjik Gjipali (Banesa e Gjik Gjipalit) is a Monument of Culture, found in the village of Çorraj. It dates back in the XIX century. The house is a two storey building that has been partially transformed due to later restorations/ constructions. To adjust to the steeping terrain, the house has been built in different levels, where the ground floor covers an area of 4,2x5m internally, which connects with the first level through an outside staircase. The first floor is composed of two spaces having separate access from the outside porch. These two spaces do communicate between themselves through an internal access-door, as well. Currently, very few parts of the house still stand, because the roof has long crawled down. The roof was made of timber and covered in stone tiles; while the walls of the house were made in stone and plaster.
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the Dwelling of Gjik Gjipali - a Culture Monument
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The Dwelling of Gjik Gjipali (Banesa e Gjik Gjipalit) is a Monument of Culture, found in the village of Çorraj. It dates back in the XIX century. The house is a two storey building that has been partially transformed due to later restorations/ constructions. To adjust to the steeping terrain, the house has been built in different levels, where the ground floor covers an area of 4,2x5m internally, which connects with the first level through an outside staircase. The first floor is composed of two spaces having separate access from the outside porch. These two spaces do communicate between themselves through an internal access-door, as well. Currently, very few parts of the house still stand, because the roof has long crawled down. The roof was made of timber and covered in stone tiles; while the walls of the house were made in stone and plaster.
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fortification of Katafiq 20
Just above the village sits the prehistoric fortification of Katafiq (fortifikimi prehistorik i Katafiqit). Katafiq means “settlement� in Greek. Perched 700 meters above sea level, a visitor is greeted by a blockade of four arches. To enter, one must walk through a onemeter-high passage, before which sits another wall and a pile of stones—likely a restraining tumulus. The sides of the walls are bordered by steep slopes. It is believed that the fortification, which dates to the late Bronze Age, played a strategic role in the defence of the coast-to-valley route.
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fortification of Katafiq 20
Just above the village sits the prehistoric fortification of Katafiq (fortifikimi prehistorik i Katafiqit). Katafiq means “settlement� in Greek. Perched 700 meters above sea level, a visitor is greeted by a blockade of four arches. To enter, one must walk through a onemeter-high passage, before which sits another wall and a pile of stones—likely a restraining tumulus. The sides of the walls are bordered by steep slopes. It is believed that the fortification, which dates to the late Bronze Age, played a strategic role in the defence of the coast-to-valley route.
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Landmarks in the village 22
In the centre of the village there stands the Church of St. Mary (dating back to 1871), the inside of which is painted with frescoes. Just outside the village center, in areas known as Bajake and Vaka, there are remains of medieval houses.
‘A viewing deck’ – veranda, a simple rusted metal table for two, offering the feeling of “flying” over the clouds and an amazing view towards the valley, is nothing less but a landmark.
Similar to many other villages in the whole Shushica Valley region, and some hinterland villages of Himara, it is very common to see memorials as landmarks in Çorraj.
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Landmarks in the village 22
In the centre of the village there stands the Church of St. Mary (dating back to 1871), the inside of which is painted with frescoes. Just outside the village center, in areas known as Bajake and Vaka, there are remains of medieval houses.
‘A viewing deck’ – veranda, a simple rusted metal table for two, offering the feeling of “flying” over the clouds and an amazing view towards the valley, is nothing less but a landmark.
Similar to many other villages in the whole Shushica Valley region, and some hinterland villages of Himara, it is very common to see memorials as landmarks in Çorraj.
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food, culinary & economic activity
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The food of Çorraj is similar to that of the region: savoury pie made with cabbage or cheese; roasted meat (spit roasted on special occasions); and diverse fruits, including apples, pears, figs, and grapes, much of which are processed for jam, fig cakes, raki, or wine. The village itself is predominantly agricultural; but because flat surfaces of land are scarce, much of the farming is terraced. Shepherds often graze their animals in the forested terrains and meadows in the surrounding mountains. Livestock and dairy production have historically sustained the village of Çorraj, as Ottoman tax registers attest to.
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food, culinary & economic activity
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The food of Çorraj is similar to that of the region: savoury pie made with cabbage or cheese; roasted meat (spit roasted on special occasions); and diverse fruits, including apples, pears, figs, and grapes, much of which are processed for jam, fig cakes, raki, or wine. The village itself is predominantly agricultural; but because flat surfaces of land are scarce, much of the farming is terraced. Shepherds often graze their animals in the forested terrains and meadows in the surrounding mountains. Livestock and dairy production have historically sustained the village of Çorraj, as Ottoman tax registers attest to.
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Çorraj Village impressions
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Çorraj Village impressions
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Facts & Figures 28
Çorraj is a village located on a crest at 200 m above sea level, close by the road that connects the Coastal area with the hinterland, the highland of Kurvelesh. The population of Çorraj has drastically diminished in the last years, due to the lack of infrastructure; and emigration phenomena. Walking through the village, one would see the fences of the fields and garden “decorated” with scarecrows. This is not only to keep the crows or other predatory birds and animals away, but, according to the superstition, this is mainly to protect the house and the family from the evil eye.
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Facts & Figures 28
Çorraj is a village located on a crest at 200 m above sea level, close by the road that connects the Coastal area with the hinterland, the highland of Kurvelesh. The population of Çorraj has drastically diminished in the last years, due to the lack of infrastructure; and emigration phenomena. Walking through the village, one would see the fences of the fields and garden “decorated” with scarecrows. This is not only to keep the crows or other predatory birds and animals away, but, according to the superstition, this is mainly to protect the house and the family from the evil eye.
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Imprint
Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al
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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication. On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al
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Imprint
Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al
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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication. On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al
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