ILIAS
A fistful of houses
First Impressions 2
As the road between Dhërmi and Vuno sweeps inward, it passes the village of Ilias, set on a small, intermediate hill, between the sea and the coastal Akrokeraune mountain range. Ilias is the smallest village in the district of Himarë, both in number of inhabitants and land area. The southern edge of the village is delimited by a steep canyon and a small creek, which extend in a line, first winding, and then broad and straight, from the base of the range all the way to the sea. The wedge-shaped beach at the creek’s mouth is called Gjipe. Once a military installation, the canyon and its beach are now a favorite spot of outdoor enthusiasts for short hikes, rock climbing, camping, and swimming. While Gjipe remains relatively active most of the year, Ilias above is quiet.
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First Impressions 2
As the road between Dhërmi and Vuno sweeps inward, it passes the village of Ilias, set on a small, intermediate hill, between the sea and the coastal Akrokeraune mountain range. Ilias is the smallest village in the district of Himarë, both in number of inhabitants and land area. The southern edge of the village is delimited by a steep canyon and a small creek, which extend in a line, first winding, and then broad and straight, from the base of the range all the way to the sea. The wedge-shaped beach at the creek’s mouth is called Gjipe. Once a military installation, the canyon and its beach are now a favorite spot of outdoor enthusiasts for short hikes, rock climbing, camping, and swimming. While Gjipe remains relatively active most of the year, Ilias above is quiet.
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On the way to the village
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On the way to the village
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The Roots - The Legend of Village Establishment
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Historically, the inhabitants of this region have known Ilias as the smallest settlement of the area with “only eight houses.” Today, locals tell the story of the Orthodox saint Saint Kosmas. It is said that sometime around 1809, while Saint Kosmas was passing through the area on his religious missions, he stopped at the houses of this village to ask for assistance. But the inhabitants of this village did not accept his request. Dismayed by the villagers’ reaction, he cursed them, saying “may this village never get bigger than seven houses.” In spite of Saint Kozma’s legendary curse, villagers joke that today the village of Ilias has managed to grow to twenty houses.
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The Roots - The Legend of Village Establishment
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Historically, the inhabitants of this region have known Ilias as the smallest settlement of the area with “only eight houses.” Today, locals tell the story of the Orthodox saint Saint Kosmas. It is said that sometime around 1809, while Saint Kosmas was passing through the area on his religious missions, he stopped at the houses of this village to ask for assistance. But the inhabitants of this village did not accept his request. Dismayed by the villagers’ reaction, he cursed them, saying “may this village never get bigger than seven houses.” In spite of Saint Kozma’s legendary curse, villagers joke that today the village of Ilias has managed to grow to twenty houses.
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The Roots - The History 8
There are ruins of two notable fortifications from the Proturban period (5th and 6th centuries BCE) roughly one kilometer to the north and to the southeast of Ilias. Both were originally built with a sophisticated method of stonework that uses “parallelepiped” stones—a structurally durable shape where every face is a parallelogram. The presence of ceramics and other objects indicates that a developed urban life existed in these areas in antiquity. The fortifications are located in dominant sites that would have enabled the surrounding inhabitants to organize an urban life by providing protection from attack. Despite its size, Ilias has a rich history of religious architecture. It has two churches—from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries respectively. They are the churches of Saint Spiridon and Saint Mary, whose interior walls of stone and lime contain religious illustrations in the Byzantine style. 9
The Roots - The History 8
There are ruins of two notable fortifications from the Proturban period (5th and 6th centuries BCE) roughly one kilometer to the north and to the southeast of Ilias. Both were originally built with a sophisticated method of stonework that uses “parallelepiped” stones—a structurally durable shape where every face is a parallelogram. The presence of ceramics and other objects indicates that a developed urban life existed in these areas in antiquity. The fortifications are located in dominant sites that would have enabled the surrounding inhabitants to organize an urban life by providing protection from attack. Despite its size, Ilias has a rich history of religious architecture. It has two churches—from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries respectively. They are the churches of Saint Spiridon and Saint Mary, whose interior walls of stone and lime contain religious illustrations in the Byzantine style. 9
Religion Abolishment during Socialism
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(Anyone who visits the Monk Martino Ksenufon at his Monastery Source of Life in Ilias is brought by the 80 year old to his tiny church. There are many paintings and frescos here which are replicas, except for one, which is authentic and sacred. Most importantly, it has a story to tell. It happened during the 1970s. During this period the Dictator Enver Hoxha declared Albania to be the first atheistic state and led Monasteries and Churches burn to the ground. However, in this church in Ilias, he failed. The arsonist had brought enough dynamite with him to completely blow up the church but he deeply believed in God. Here, he kneeled down before the Fresco and begged for forgiveness and said that he did not want to do this, but he had to. As he lit the fuse, he ran to the stream and thought that everything had exploded. Prodigiously, the explosion only made a small hole in the wall. Since then, the Fresco has been considered sacred. As a farewell gesture the monk Martino offers a mocha to drink, and raki-homemade of course.) Transcripted from “The Mysterious South� documentary. Source: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Eq8emewlPJg
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Religion Abolishment during Socialism
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(Anyone who visits the Monk Martino Ksenufon at his Monastery Source of Life in Ilias is brought by the 80 year old to his tiny church. There are many paintings and frescos here which are replicas, except for one, which is authentic and sacred. Most importantly, it has a story to tell. It happened during the 1970s. During this period the Dictator Enver Hoxha declared Albania to be the first atheistic state and led Monasteries and Churches burn to the ground. However, in this church in Ilias, he failed. The arsonist had brought enough dynamite with him to completely blow up the church but he deeply believed in God. Here, he kneeled down before the Fresco and begged for forgiveness and said that he did not want to do this, but he had to. As he lit the fuse, he ran to the stream and thought that everything had exploded. Prodigiously, the explosion only made a small hole in the wall. Since then, the Fresco has been considered sacred. As a farewell gesture the monk Martino offers a mocha to drink, and raki-homemade of course.) Transcripted from “The Mysterious South� documentary. Source: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Eq8emewlPJg
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The setting - The Urban Fabric
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The houses of Ilias were built in the same manner as the other villages on the HimarĂŤ coast. They have either one or two floors, with the ground floor containing the kitchen, the dining area, and a gathering space, while the upper floors contain sleeping rooms for the family, a guest room, and another shared room for gathering. These houses typically feature a fireplace and chimney, which provides warmth during cold weather, and is located in the shared social rooms. The traditional houses of Ilias and the neighboring villages are constructed with local white flint stone and mortar. The small plots of land upon which houses sit have stone perimeter walls, the entrance through which is a characteristic arched gate. The stone walls of the houses are roughly one meter wide, which helps to maintain a stable temperature inside regardless of the weather. Roads and pathways through Ilias are laid with pavers of local stone and are steep along the sides with small drainage channels.
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The setting - The Urban Fabric
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The houses of Ilias were built in the same manner as the other villages on the HimarĂŤ coast. They have either one or two floors, with the ground floor containing the kitchen, the dining area, and a gathering space, while the upper floors contain sleeping rooms for the family, a guest room, and another shared room for gathering. These houses typically feature a fireplace and chimney, which provides warmth during cold weather, and is located in the shared social rooms. The traditional houses of Ilias and the neighboring villages are constructed with local white flint stone and mortar. The small plots of land upon which houses sit have stone perimeter walls, the entrance through which is a characteristic arched gate. The stone walls of the houses are roughly one meter wide, which helps to maintain a stable temperature inside regardless of the weather. Roads and pathways through Ilias are laid with pavers of local stone and are steep along the sides with small drainage channels.
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The people - Culture and Tradition
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As in other Himarë villages, the traditional cuisine is based on livestock. In Ilias that includes goats and lamb, with a preference for beef. The local tradition of cooking on a rotating spit is common in Ilias. The spit roasting method is used for lamb and goat. After slaughter and cleaning, the animal is suspended above coals and slowly turned over the course of an afternoon. The meat offered by a host to guests, presented on their table and then sliced and shared. The lamb’s tail is considered by the locals to be the most delicious part, and is given to honor the guest who traveled to the village from the greatest distance. In Ilias and the regional villages, a set of strict customs governs the generous, unquestioning sharing of food and shelter with friends and strangers. The practice maintains the honor of the family and its house. The menu becomes the preoccupation of hospitable housewives of villages like Ilias. She works to ensure that no guests’ table lacks baked pies, “byrek,” which usually contain local greens like nettles or cabbage, and cheese or curd. Different kinds of salads are also offered, prepared with local produce like tomatoes, peppers, onions, and wild cabbage, and eaten with a rustic cornbread, honey, dried figs, and fresh figs, grapes, nuts, apples, pears, cherries, and quince.
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The people - Culture and Tradition
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As in other Himarë villages, the traditional cuisine is based on livestock. In Ilias that includes goats and lamb, with a preference for beef. The local tradition of cooking on a rotating spit is common in Ilias. The spit roasting method is used for lamb and goat. After slaughter and cleaning, the animal is suspended above coals and slowly turned over the course of an afternoon. The meat offered by a host to guests, presented on their table and then sliced and shared. The lamb’s tail is considered by the locals to be the most delicious part, and is given to honor the guest who traveled to the village from the greatest distance. In Ilias and the regional villages, a set of strict customs governs the generous, unquestioning sharing of food and shelter with friends and strangers. The practice maintains the honor of the family and its house. The menu becomes the preoccupation of hospitable housewives of villages like Ilias. She works to ensure that no guests’ table lacks baked pies, “byrek,” which usually contain local greens like nettles or cabbage, and cheese or curd. Different kinds of salads are also offered, prepared with local produce like tomatoes, peppers, onions, and wild cabbage, and eaten with a rustic cornbread, honey, dried figs, and fresh figs, grapes, nuts, apples, pears, cherries, and quince.
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The People - Folk Traditions
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The tradition of polyphonic, or multipart, singing is well practiced in Ilias. Sung by at least four voices, the parts keep individual lines but maintain harmony within the main song. A “starter” sings the main tune, keeping with the text of the song. The other singers can intervene to support the starter. The “thrower” joins in almost immediately to support and contest the message of the starter. The “cutter” provides a rhythm, often of staccato sounds or noises that emulate wind, echo, or the voices of animals. Underneath it all, a group of at least two, but oftentimes as many as five or seven, stays in the background singing the “drone,” a constant note breathed in a vowel sound. Polyphonic traditions from south Albania are typically performed without musical instruments, though the double fife, an ancient wind instrument with two reeds and a straight body, does occasionally factor into traditional songs. Themes of southern Albanian polyphonic songs may be elegy, romantic, or the common subject of migration Traditional Costumes On special occasions, especially musical concerts or seasonal celebrations, inhabitants of Ilias wear the traditional dress of the region. That costume is composed of a white, pleated kilt worn just below the knee for men. Men also wear black felt leggings and tufted leather moccasins. On top, they wear a white cotton shirt with wide, hanging, cone-shaped sleeves, and embroidered floral motifs and over this, a black vest. On their heads they wear a black hat called a “bustinë.” Source: elvikote photography
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The People - Folk Traditions
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The tradition of polyphonic, or multipart, singing is well practiced in Ilias. Sung by at least four voices, the parts keep individual lines but maintain harmony within the main song. A “starter” sings the main tune, keeping with the text of the song. The other singers can intervene to support the starter. The “thrower” joins in almost immediately to support and contest the message of the starter. The “cutter” provides a rhythm, often of staccato sounds or noises that emulate wind, echo, or the voices of animals. Underneath it all, a group of at least two, but oftentimes as many as five or seven, stays in the background singing the “drone,” a constant note breathed in a vowel sound. Polyphonic traditions from south Albania are typically performed without musical instruments, though the double fife, an ancient wind instrument with two reeds and a straight body, does occasionally factor into traditional songs. Themes of southern Albanian polyphonic songs may be elegy, romantic, or the common subject of migration Traditional Costumes On special occasions, especially musical concerts or seasonal celebrations, inhabitants of Ilias wear the traditional dress of the region. That costume is composed of a white, pleated kilt worn just below the knee for men. Men also wear black felt leggings and tufted leather moccasins. On top, they wear a white cotton shirt with wide, hanging, cone-shaped sleeves, and embroidered floral motifs and over this, a black vest. On their heads they wear a black hat called a “bustinë.” Source: elvikote photography
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The Landscape 20
Situated on the somewhat flat side of the winding route between Vuno and Dhërmi, Ilias enjoys a picturesque panorama, offering the view extending toward the north, south, and west. The nearby hills are green, with dominant species of cypress, figs, grapes, mulberries, and Mediterranean pear. While, as you approach the national road, you see the rocky land formation, known as “Bokerrimat e Vunoit”, which is a geo-monument.
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The Landscape 20
Situated on the somewhat flat side of the winding route between Vuno and Dhërmi, Ilias enjoys a picturesque panorama, offering the view extending toward the north, south, and west. The nearby hills are green, with dominant species of cypress, figs, grapes, mulberries, and Mediterranean pear. While, as you approach the national road, you see the rocky land formation, known as “Bokerrimat e Vunoit”, which is a geo-monument.
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The coast-Gjipe bay 22
On the western, sea-facing side of Ilias, the village descends on a gradual slope toward the Ionian Sea, to a small, picturesque beach called the “Beach of Gjipe.� This sandy bay is contained on both sides by rock cliffs, which lead up to the rolling, shrub-covered plateau above. On either side of the Gjipe gorge is a landscape of similar, minor forms, where the deep red soil has eroded in a succession of ridges and valleys that drain toward the edge of the land into the sea. Within this dense scrub, a winding road takes visitors to a clearing that serves as a parking for a monastery, and for a path leading down to Gjipe beach. The tiny bay of Gjipe can be reached by a thirty to forty minute hike down this trail.
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The coast-Gjipe bay 22
On the western, sea-facing side of Ilias, the village descends on a gradual slope toward the Ionian Sea, to a small, picturesque beach called the “Beach of Gjipe.� This sandy bay is contained on both sides by rock cliffs, which lead up to the rolling, shrub-covered plateau above. On either side of the Gjipe gorge is a landscape of similar, minor forms, where the deep red soil has eroded in a succession of ridges and valleys that drain toward the edge of the land into the sea. Within this dense scrub, a winding road takes visitors to a clearing that serves as a parking for a monastery, and for a path leading down to Gjipe beach. The tiny bay of Gjipe can be reached by a thirty to forty minute hike down this trail.
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The Canyon of Gjipe -A Natural Monument
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Gjipe Canyon is a geo-monument created by the stream with the same name and the karstic processes. It is 800 meter long, with a medium width of 10-12 meters and a height that goes up to 100 m. Along the rocky hillsides there are various caves, where most of them remain unexplored. This Monument represents natural, educational and geological values. It can be considered as one of the most attractive and interesting geomounments throughout the whole Ionian coast. It can be easily reached following the trail Dhërmi- Saint Todhry Monastery-Gjipe beach in few minutes. “Gjipe Bridge” or also known as “The Bridge on the River, Vuno” is situated close to Ilias village, along the path that leads to the orthodox monastery, nearby the famous Gjipe Canyon of the Ionian coast. This bridge is declared a Culture Monument from the National Restoration Council. 25
The Canyon of Gjipe -A Natural Monument
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Gjipe Canyon is a geo-monument created by the stream with the same name and the karstic processes. It is 800 meter long, with a medium width of 10-12 meters and a height that goes up to 100 m. Along the rocky hillsides there are various caves, where most of them remain unexplored. This Monument represents natural, educational and geological values. It can be considered as one of the most attractive and interesting geomounments throughout the whole Ionian coast. It can be easily reached following the trail Dhërmi- Saint Todhry Monastery-Gjipe beach in few minutes. “Gjipe Bridge” or also known as “The Bridge on the River, Vuno” is situated close to Ilias village, along the path that leads to the orthodox monastery, nearby the famous Gjipe Canyon of the Ionian coast. This bridge is declared a Culture Monument from the National Restoration Council. 25
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Ilias Village impressions
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Ilias Village impressions
Facts & Figures
Ilias is the smallest village in the district of Himarë, both in number of inhabitants and land area. There are ruins of two notable fortifications from the Proturban period (5th and 6th centuries BCE) roughly one kilometer to the north and to the southeast of Ilias. Ilias has two churches-from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries respectively. They are the churches of Saint Spiridon and Saint Mary, whose interior walls of stone and lime contain religious illustrations in the Byzantine style. The tiny bay of Gjipe can be reached by a thirty to forty minute hike down this trail. As part of a project initiated by the World Bank, the village of Ilias, similar to other villages in the region has undergone through a renovation process titled “Roofs and Facades”. Subsequently, many of the roofs and facades of the village houses were restored.
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Albania is renewing its vital environmental and community infrastructures in order to boost the country’s potential for tourism in the nature-rich south coast. The improvements aim at upgrading coastal village conditions, protecting nature and cultural endowment and traditions, and attracting more local as well as international tourists in a sustainable way. “ There are two things I am doing this for. One, it is in order to maintain the legacy of my childhood home. And two, I will benefit economically. “ Lluka Nikollori, 80 resident of Ilias Source : http://www.worldbank.org/en/ results/2014/06/27/motivating-potential-ofalbanian-south-coast
Facts & Figures
Ilias is the smallest village in the district of Himarë, both in number of inhabitants and land area. There are ruins of two notable fortifications from the Proturban period (5th and 6th centuries BCE) roughly one kilometer to the north and to the southeast of Ilias. Ilias has two churches-from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries respectively. They are the churches of Saint Spiridon and Saint Mary, whose interior walls of stone and lime contain religious illustrations in the Byzantine style. The tiny bay of Gjipe can be reached by a thirty to forty minute hike down this trail. As part of a project initiated by the World Bank, the village of Ilias, similar to other villages in the region has undergone through a renovation process titled “Roofs and Facades”. Subsequently, many of the roofs and facades of the village houses were restored.
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Albania is renewing its vital environmental and community infrastructures in order to boost the country’s potential for tourism in the nature-rich south coast. The improvements aim at upgrading coastal village conditions, protecting nature and cultural endowment and traditions, and attracting more local as well as international tourists in a sustainable way. “ There are two things I am doing this for. One, it is in order to maintain the legacy of my childhood home. And two, I will benefit economically. “ Lluka Nikollori, 80 resident of Ilias Source : http://www.worldbank.org/en/ results/2014/06/27/motivating-potential-ofalbanian-south-coast
Imprint
Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al
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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication. On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al
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Imprint
Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html February 2016 Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al
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Design and layout PIK Creative Address: Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, nr. 37, Tiranë - Albania www.pik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj unless otherwise stated Copyright with GIZ Text Irakli Koçollari GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication. On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania please visit: www.albania.al
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