BICYCLIST Magazine #138 by BICYCLIST

Guiding and Inspiring bicycle riding for sport, Recreation and transportation since 1994

Issue 138 - early winter 2016

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Going ‘beyond’ in japan

Noto Peninsula

SoCal & Beyond takes on new meaning as we explore bicycle-friendly Japan And experience The Wakura Onsen (pg 12)

Holiday Edition ‘16

BPM #001

Find the perfect Gift for the cyclist on your list (pg 11)

- featuring Meld Saddles

the 132 gram custom saddle VeloPress

300 pages of Greg LeMond +23 more

also

a focus on modern bike advocacy

multiple perspectives A cyclists retreat in Palm Springs

the monkey tree hotel

BICYCLIST magazine

SoCal and Beyond

Contents

Inside this issue

Regulars 05 basics

Features 08 advocacy

06 Ask the bike coach

Multiple perspectives How to be more a bike friendly business, real-time advocacy perspectives and Advocacy group directory.

Beyond the print - socalBICYCLIST.com.

Addressing lower back pain after a bike fit.

07 Electric Age Your first electric bike.

09 Legislative Insider

A common sense approach to cycling laws.

11 BPM #001

Bicyclist Product Matrix â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Holiday Editionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

issue 138 Early Winter 2016 Designed and printed in Southern California. Read and distributed throughout the world.

10 DWR: Palm Springs Destinations Within Reach The Monkey Tree Hotel in Palm Springs, a boutique athlete retreat that caters to cyclists.

12 Bicyclist Beyond: Japan Exploring the Noto Peninsular By Bike Discovering traditional Japan and the Noto Peninsula.

20 Event Calendar

Find your next adventure, race or local bicycle-friendly event.

23 Last Page

Profile: Interview with Remi Clermont, Lead Designer of Cafe du Cycliste.

FIND THE CHAIN LINK

A small icon (exactly like this one: ) is hidden somewhere in this issue. If you locate it and enter our Find The Chain Link contest, you may win a FREE one-year subscription (or an additional year for existing subscribers) to the print edition of BICYCLIST magazine. To enter, go to socalbicyclist.com/ftc and complete the online entry form or send an entry with your name and phone number to Find The Chainlink c/o BICYCLIST magazine 14252 Culver Dr. Irvine, CA 92604. Entries must be received by February 15, 2017 for consideration. The winning entry will be selected using a random-number generator and announced in a future print issue.

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Winner Issue #137

Oscar Ensalmo of Alta Dena, CA correctly identified the chain link on page 15 of issue #137 (see left). For his efforts, he will receive a 1 year print subscription of the magazine and a care package of samples and SWAG from our sponsors and friends of the magazine.

Cover

Alt-Cover

Wilnelia Recart lives the bicyclist experience while exploring the Noto Peninsula in Japan. (see page 12) Recart (right) gathers materials during an offbike excursion exploring local crafting methods developed over hundreds of years. @socalbicyclist

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prologue Early Winter 2016 PUTTING THE “BEYOND” IN SOCAL & BEYOND

I EDITORIAL

Chris Reynolds - CR | Editorial Director chris@socalbicyclist.com Kelley O’Toole - KO | Managing Editor kelley@socalbicyclist.com Victor Prestinary - VP | Associate Editor victor@socalbicyclist.com Catherine Latour | Senior Editor catherine@socalbicyclist.com Bob Becker - BB | Electric Age bob@socalbicyclist.com Rick Shultz - RS | The Bike Fitter fit@socalbicyclist.com

ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP Chris Reynolds | Publisher chris@socalbicyclist.com

ONLINE

Chris Reynolds | Design & Development chris@socalbicyclist.com Kelley O’Toole | Social Media   kelley@socalbicyclist.com Tim Wilson | Social Media  tim@socalbicyclist.com

DISTRIBUTION & LOGISTICS

VITALS & SUBSCRIPTIONS

BICYCLIST: SoCal & Beyond is a multi-platform lifestyle and destination guide celebrating the arts, skills, events, and culture of the cycling life in Southern California and other locations in the Western U.S and BEYOND! BICYCLIST magazine is published 10 times per year. The print edition can be found at better bike shops, coffee shops and breweries throughout major metropolitan cities west of the Rockies. Print copy subscriptions are $20 per year for delivery to the destination of your choice in the United States. International print subscriptions are $35. For more information, visit www.socalbicyclist.com/subscribe or send check and your mailing address to Subscriptions BICYCLIST:SoCal & Beyond, 14252 Culver Dr. Irvine CA 92604.

DISCLAIMER Although all best efforts are made to avoid the same, we reserve the right to publish unintentional mistakes and/or factual errors which may occur on an issue basis. No responsibility is assumed by the publishers for unsolicited materials/articles/letters/advertising and all submissions will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright and/or appropriate licensing purposes subject to BSCB’s right to edit and comment editorially. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine reflect the opinions of their respective author’s and are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editorial team. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form [print or electronic] without prior consent of the publisher.

Bicycling can be a dangerous sport and can lead to serious injury or death. Make it safer for everyone and obey all traffic laws, ride responsibly, use common sense, and wear a helmet.

Victor Prestinary | Associate Publisher victor@socalbicyclist.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Cate Clark, Carl Lawton, Andreas Moore, Samuel Parks, Wilnelia Recart, Rick Schultz, Shari Sullivant, Rob Templin

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n this last issue of 2016, we’re going beyond. Beyond Southern California and beyond what you could be expected from our publication. We’ve been bringing you frequent dispatches in the form of our ‘Destinations Within Reach’ features. We have profiled some truly wonderful destinations for cycling on the western coast of the United States and this issue is no exception, with a look at the Monkey Tree Hotel in Palm Springs (page 10). But we wanted to introduce locations suitable for the Southern California bicyclist looking to go further. There has been a lot of cycling-specific attention on Japan this past year. Gritty photos of local Tokyo cycling clubs, picturesque views of cherry-blossom festooned roads and a requisite shot of Mt. Fuji are all de rigueur in this coverage, but we thought we’d do something different. For this first instalment of what we’re calling ‘Bicyclist Beyond’, we sent Victor Prestinary, Wilnelia Recart, and Cate Clark across the Pacific Ocean to explore Noto Island and the surrounding peninsula on the western coast of Japan. The report? The roads are amazing for cycling, the country as a whole is bicycle-friendly and the food is unreal. But this can be said for so many wonderful places to ride bikes. We look at the historical and cultural aspects that make this area of the world stand out as a destination for the bicyclist looking to go ‘beyond’ and explore somewhere unique and interesting. Back home stateside, we dip our front wheels into the river of advocacy and bring you two articles that will help understand the complexities of modern bike advocacy. Our guide to a bicycle friendly workplace provides information for both the employer and employee looking to incorporate cycling in the work-life balance. We also shine a light on a situation that has been brewing in Palos Verdes Estates regarding signage and the deaths of multiple cyclists. Read the full story on page 8. Our next issue won’t be released until January 3, so until then, from all of us here at the BICYCLIST team, we wish you a happy and healthy holiday season.

See you on the route,

BICYCLIST: SoCal & Beyond 14252 Culver Drive Irvine, CA 92604 (949) 264-3346 @socalbicyclist contact@socalbicyclist.com

Chris R .

- Chris Reynolds, editorial director

Designed and Printed in SoCal Founded by Will Decker Published by Chris Reynolds Copyright ©2016 All rights reserved. All photography and design performed in-house by Chris Reynolds & Victor Prestinary unless otherwise noted.

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Magazine Go here to find the archives of BICYCLIST magazine. You can read the digital edition of this issue as well as interactive copies of the past 10 issues. All are available for easy reading on iOS, Android and tablet devices. The complete archives of the magazine will be available mid-2017.

The Bicyclist Brief is a place for informative and interesting news that comes across our radar. We scour the interwebs curating and filtering for the most interesting news and content for both the local cyclist, as well as the cyclist living ‘beyond’ the SoCal borders. Succinct, to the point; brief.

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Ask the Coach

with Rick Schultz USA CYCLING COACH, USAC CERTIFIED

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DO You Have A FIT Question? Send your inquiries to fit@socalbicyclist.com

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Q. I got a bike fit and the next day went out on a ride. The day after my ride my lower back was so sore that I could barely get out of bed. What did the bike fitter do to me? - B.B., Santa Ana

This is our experience and we welcome you to join in the discussion. First step? Start listening !

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A. The pain your experiencing is not uncommon with cyclists who ride immediately after a bike fit without much time to acclimate. Take it easy and allow your body to adjust to the new fit before you over do it. There are a couple possibilities for why you are dealing with lower back pain after a fit, depending on how many changes were made and how radical they were, the bike fitter should have told you to take it easy for several rides so that your body has time to acclimate itself to your new (and now correct) position. Your body was used to being in a position in which you sacrificed power, safety and had a higher risk for injury. Since it takes a little time for your body to get used to a new position, give it several weeks of cycling easy after a fit. Give it a little time, soon you should be ready to apply full power! Once, I had a bike fit client that came back to me with the same sore back complaint. The story goes that he originally had a bad bike fit from another fitter which resulted in chronic knee pain. After a year went by and his knee pain got getting worse and worse, he looked me up, gave me a call and we scheduled his bike re-fit for a Friday. We made some pretty substantial changes during his bike fit and afterwards I told him to take it easy for a week or two. He called me that Sunday and informed me that his lower back was hurting so bad he could barely walk, let alone get out of bed. He even asked “what did you do to me to mess me up?” As I tried to get to the bottom of the situation he mentioned that he had been doing hills the day before.He said he rode from his home in Irvine down the coast to Las Pulgas (Camp Pendleton). On his way home, he said he had felt really good, so he decided to do some hills. The hills he chose are pretty substantial in Laguna Beach, most over 13% and one topping out over 23% grade. He climbed Nyes Place, Alta Vista, Bluebird Canyon, Park Ave, and finished with Newport Coast. His ride turned out to be 90 miles with almost 5,500 feet of climbing. To make matters worse, most of the climbing was in the last 20 miles, and this was the ride I told him to go easy on. I asked this client how much climbing he had been doing the past year, his response was “none since his knees hurt so much.” There was the problem. Climbing stresses the lower back muscles since you are pulling on the bars a lot harder than on the flats. And since he hadn’t been stretching, his hamstrings were tight which caused more pulling on the lower back. With no hill conditioning and doing 5,500 feet of climbing, it’s no wonder his back hurt. I told him to rest and see a physical therapist if his back was as bad as he said it was. A couple weeks later, he called and said he was back on his bike and taking it easy. Moral of the story after a bike fit? Don’t over-do it. ▲ - RS

58: The Times are changing

57: PVE needs BMUFL

BICYCLIST magazine

The aftermath of the election, climate change, updates to the 2017 WorldTour, and we follow up on the ongoing fight to get BMUFL signs posted in Palos Verdes Estates.

56: Malibu Gran Cookie Dough

The topic is tragic with news from London of the death of an Italian prince while cycling. We lighten things up with a complete recap of Phil Gaimon’s inaugural gran fondo, the Malibu Gran Cookie Dough.

55: Tour of California+SoCal

Coach Rick Schultz is an avid cyclist who trains, races and coaches in Southern

California. He’s a bike fitter and USA Cycling Level 2 coach. As a USAC Certified Power Based Trainer, Rick helps athletes ride safer and race better via his bike handling skills clinics. Rick also teachs the local Beginner Racer Program for USA Cycling. He’s the author of Bike Fit 101: Your Toolset for a Great Bike Fit and Stretching & Core Strengthening for the Cyclist and Triathlete. Check his product review website at biketestreviews.com and his coaching site bikefitnesscoaching.com. Rick is now working with Jax Bicycles as their premier bike fitter using the new state of the art Trek Fit System. Come on by and give it a try.

A continued discussion about the effects of globalization on cycling and bike shops. We cover weather, when the Pros retire, and Gary Johnson rides the Divide.

Daylight savings is a hassle. We complain about it and then go on to discuss the Tour of California 2017, Los Alamos and Drum Canyon, Measure M, and finish with a Sufferfest event recap.

54: Beer+Candy, Road Signs

We recap our pumpkin carving escapades where we (somehow) helped to raise over $17.5K for OC GUTS and Make-A-Wish Foundation. Coming off this peak altruism, we spend the rest of the time discussing beer, candy pairings, and CA election details.

SoCal and Beyond

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Electric Age Easy Motion EasyGO Race e-Bike

Written by Victor Prestinary. Bob Becker will return next issue with an analysis of trends in the electric bike market for 2017. Stay tuned. Stay sharp.

SINGLE SPEED COMMUTING MADE EASIER

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FAST AND LIGHT, THE EASYGO RACE CLASS 2 EBIKE COMES IN AT A MERE 33.5 LBS.

The 250-watt rear motor is more than enough to propel this alloy-framed e-bike. The EasyGo Race is built to zip around the city, giving the feel of a very fast single speed. The motor sensitivity is very well tuned, almost taking the place of gearing, allowing you to feel confident pedaling at any speed, on many surfaces, and up most inclines. The bike handles excellently at speed, whipping around corners, and solid on straightaways. The 216Wh battery is less than you’d expect on most bikes, but by decreasing weight, the battery will still last long enough for any typical city ride. Less than a couple of hours charging, and you are good for another ride. Good quality Emotion parts and deep alloy rims finish off this bike for a very decent single speed, even without using the motor. It also has a compact profile, making it easier to maneuver turns, trails, and stairwells. We pulled a Burley Tail Wagon with the EasyGo Race, and found it to be very comfortable, handling as well on the street as on dirt paths. This sleek bike has a really great ride feel, with the low-maintenance and elegance of single speed combined with the perfect amount of assist to make your trip around town fun and fast. ▲ - VP

Burley Tail Wagon MSRP $399

 Burley @socalbicyclist

What is bike advocacy?

BICYCLING ADVOCACY IS HOW WE GET LANES, ROADS, INFRASTRUCTURE PROMOTED FOR THE BEST BICYCLING CONDITIONS. ADVOCACY GROUPS PROMOTE AND FIGHT FOR THE PROGRESSION OF BETTER BICYCLING ON THE CITY, COUNTY, STATE, NATIONAL, AND GLOBAL LEVELS.

How To Be A Bike Friendly Business

A LONG-TERM COMMITMENT TO HARMONIZING WORK-LIFE AND BIKE-LIFE CAN HAVE FAR-REACHING BENEFITS FOR BOTH THE EMPLOYEE AND EMPLOYER

ecoming a bike friendly business (BFB) is as much a benefit for the employer as it is the employee and once established, it can foster a more productive workplace. Plus, having the reputation for being a bike and commuter friendly business will earn you customers beyond just the cyclists who frequent your establishment.

Employers

Requirements to be considered a BFB are dependent on which organization you register your business with. Many organizations, clubs, and coalitions accept applications from local businesses to receive the designation of being an official BFB. Examples of the organizations you may work with are California Bicycle Coalition, LADOT, San Diego Bicycle Coalition, Bike Long Beach and Bike SLO County, or national organizations like The League of American Bicyclists, which has been around since the 1880’s. For the employers who find work place happiness relevant, studies have shown that employees that commute by bike increase their work production due to improved health and happiness. This improved help will also help to decrease employee health care costs. As long as you provide bicycle facilities for patrons like ample bike parking, bike gear and tools for any mechanical issues, locker room or lavatory for changing, and offer numerous resources and guides for staying safe on city roads, your employees will stay happy and satisfied. Work with your local coalition or organization as you make the transition to becoming a BFB. County coalitions and non-profit groups are great advocates for bicyclists, who offer information, education and events for the community and newcomers. Be innovative. Create incentives. Encourage your employees to contribute in the goal of being more bike friendly with monthly creative contests related to biking, like a reward for the most innovative conception of a bike parking lot. From the perspective of the community, being designated as a bike friendly business can improve your visibility and draw business from bicyclists - a loyal group of customers. Your company will be associated with progression and contribution to decreasing our carbon footprint. Bike parking doesn’t cost very much and takes up little space. You can park around 14 bikes in 1 car parking spot. Free and available parking encourages locals and tourists to ride their bikes by making it really easy for them to secure their bikes. Win, win. For 2016, here’s how California’s stacked up: #8 BICYCLE FRIENDLY STATE RANK 62 BICYCLE FRIENDLY COMMUNITIES 99 BICYCLE FRIENDLY BUSINESSES 14 BICYCLE FRIENDLY UNIVERSITIES

Employees

You’ll be reaping the rewards of giving your car the boot and riding to work whether or not your employer is designated as a BFB. Ultimately, everybody wins when you commute. The enhancements made to your health will carry over into all of your relationships, both professional and personal. Riding your bike will allow you to become more intimately connected to your city. You’ll start to notice interesting aspects about your surroundings that you have not noticed before. Before you reap the rewards of becoming a commuter, make sure you set time to plan and prepare the route you will take. There are many things to consider, such as how to pick routes with protected bike lanes on your roadway and if there are locals trails that can take the places of road. You can sacrifice a few minutes if it means taking a more safe and bike friendly route. You may even find a shortcut only available to bicycles. Ask your local shop for help on this if you’re unable to put something together on your own. Utilize the digital tools available to you. Apps like Ride with GPS are great for discovering new places to ride and planning routes. If it’s possible, record your work ride on Ride with GPS during the weekend to get a feel of the layout from the bicycle perspective. This app gives you what you need to create a route with turn-by-turn directions. The website is the best platform, but the app will allow you to gather the information; you need both. On iOS, you can sync up the ‘Find My Friends’ app with your coworkers on your way to and from work, allowing them to track your location for at least an hour. If your coworkers know your biking to work and you don’t show up, it’ll allow you to be easily located in case of an emergency. You can install the free app from the app store if you have iOS Version 8 or later. You can make up the cost for your commute with a cash reimbursement of $20 per month or $240 per year given by your employer. The Bicycle Commuter Act was authorized by the IRS beginning on January 1, 1999, and it provides a tax-benefited reimbursement for the expenses of bicycle commuting. There are no official guidelines on how the compensation is dispersed, it is up to the employer how best to pay out the employee. Use any and all tools to your advantage and always be prepared. Refer back to Victor Prestinary’s article in Issue 129 on “Doing Easy”, or being mindful and patient as you go through the steps in preparing for your commute. Make sure you have bright lights on your bike, both front and back. Check and pump your tires every morning. Become familiar with your rights and restrictions as a bicyclist by knowing the laws of your city and county. Respect the wonder of this experience and make sure you take responsibility for your safety and security. Commuting by bicycle doesn’t mean you’ll end up being a die-hard cyclist, but it will give you a new found fondness for the zen of riding a bike. If your way to work is all trails, you couldn’t ask for a better way to start the day. Take comfort in knowing that time and time again, bike riding has been shown to be greatly beneficial to health and well-being and you’ll start your day ahead of most everyone you work with. Win, win. ▲ - KO

Statistics from The League of American Bicyclists

Advocacy Group Listing These organizations advocate for improved cycling on the local, state and federal governments.

Local/State Advocacy Groups: California Bicycle Coalition - calbike.org Bike Bakersfield - bikebakersfield.org Bay Area Bicycle Coalition - bayareabikes.org Bicycle Culture Institute - bicycleculture.org 8

BICYCLIST magazine

The Bicycle Tree - thebicycletree.org Bike Santa Cruz County - bikesantacruzcounty.org Black Girls Do Bike - blackgirlsdobike.com C.I.C.L.E - cicle.org East Bay Bicycle Coalition - bikeeastbay.org El Fenix - el-fenix.org Fresno County Bicycle Coalition - fresnobike.org Inland Empire Bicycle Alliance - iebikingalliance.org LADOT Bike Program - bike.lacity.org Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition - la-bike.org

Marin County Bicycle Coalition - marinbike.org Merced Bicycle Coalition - mercedbicyclecoalition.org Napa County Bicycle Coalition - napabike.org Orange County Bicycle Coalition - ocbike.org The Orange County Wheelmen (OCW) - ocwheelmen.org PEDaL - myfeetfirst.org Sacramento Area Bicycle Advocates - sacbike.org San Francisco Bicycle Coalition - sfbike.org San Diego County Bicycle Coalition - sdbikecoalition.org Santa Ana Safe Streets (SASS) - saascoalition.org SoCal and Beyond

Real-Time Advocacy

CYCLISTS PROTEST AND ADVOCATE FOR ‘BICYCLES MAY USE FULL LANE’ SIGNS IN PALOS VERDES ESTATES

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esidents and members of cycling groups like Big Orange Cycling have been attempting to work with city council and community members to get proper bicycle signage installed on Palos Verdes Estate city streets reading “Bicycles May Use Full Lane”(BMUFL). After the third bicyclist was killed this year by another unidentified motorist in May, the city placed temporary signs along roads saying “3-Feet It’s the Law” in place of confusing signs reading “Bicycle Laws Strictly Enforced.” The BMUFL signage recommendation was Rovit communicated odit ut quito cuptatus, the city que council by bicyclists during monthly et community pa autatiameetings volut volupitios since the summer. On one occasion, PVE minulle bicyclists, nducimento organized beri by Michael sin- Barraclough, staged a protest ctatus at Malaga est,Cove iliqueinimJune id molupto display their lawful rights to the road tatis to motorists. con nis dest, A few odlocal quasmotorists et, screamed out obscenities si toward to intibusam, the bicyclists officiae riding aliti around Malaga Cove, revealing just conse how intense nimin num someilicae community accum members felt towards bicyclists. es ipsusda After the nihitia efforts eptas of danthe protest, the PVE Traffic Safety imct Committee lab iumrecommended quiatur molore that five of the BMUFL signs be eos installed re velatmodio pointsofficip alongsanPalos Verdes Drive West and Palos daepuda Verdes Drive netNorth. ut pratemq The City Council rejected the proposal

Where to go From Here

A consistent presence at the meetings, Seth Davidson bicyclist attorney and member of Big Orange Cycling, is among the voices leading the issue along with local cyclists Michael Barraclough and Delia Park. Davidson regularly updates his website with information regarding the progress (or lack of) in PVE and surrounding areas. Read his posts for an in-depth overview of this long-running issue; at the very least you’ll be enthralled by Davidson’s biting wit. pvcycling.wordpress.com We reached out to Davidson asking what message we could pass along to the bicyclists who want to support the cause, he recommends the following for those want to get involved in real-time advocacy: 1. If you’re in LA, come to the city council meetings, which can be found here: www.pvestates.org/ government/city-council/city-meetings 2. Write original letters or emails individually to Mayor King telling her why the signs are important. Her email and that of the other members are here: www.pvestates.org/government/ city-council 3. Call the city council clerk and tell them to put BMUFL signage on the agenda. 4. Get involved in your own local council and traffic committee. The more communities that have signage, the harder it is for others to refuse to install it. 5. We have upcoming events that include more sign protesting and a die-in. People want to help can email me. 6. Make advocacy fun! We eat pizza, hang out, and have a good time. The next city council meeting is planned for December 13th 7:30 pm at Council Chambers of City Hall on 340 Palos Verdes Drive West. Frequently check the website for updates as they’ve rescheduled the meetings a few times.

Ed Note:Evidence Based Argument

in October, deciding instead to wait for the completion of a “Roadway Safety Master Plan.” Reasons cited by mayor Jennifer King, and other council members, is that the Roadway Plan being developed between Palos Verdes Estates, Rancho Palos Verdes and Rolling Hills Estates would “create more inconsistencies on the cities’ roadways, something the plan aims to diminish.” Bicyclist advocates have been showing up and protesting at the monthly city council meetings to really drive home the importance of communicating BMUFL.

Santa Barbara Bicycle Coalition - sbbike.org Silicon Valley Bicycle Coalition - bikesiliconvalley.org SLO County Bicycle Coalition - bikeslocounty.org Sonoma County Bicycle Coalition - bikesonoma.org *California has the most advocacy groups of any state in the US.

A study published online in 2015 conducted by George Hess and M. Nils Peterson of NCSU showed that “BMUFL” wording was the most effective for communicating bicyclists rights. Using a web-based survey, researchers asked respondents to evaluate two traffic situations involving motor vehicles and a bicycle. their conclusion was that BMUFL signs were beneficial to the safety of bicyclists. “Although limited in scope, our survey results are indicative and suggest that Departments of Transportation consider replacing ‘Share the Road’ with “Bicycles May Use Full Lane’ signage, possibly combined with Shared Lane Markings, if the intent is to increase awareness of roadway rights and responsibilities.” Visit BMUFL.org for more info. ▲ - KO

INSIDER WILL BE DISCUSSING COMMON SENSE PRACTICES REGARDING BICYCLES ON PUBLIC ROADS IN CALIFORNIA . SEND YOUR QUESTIONS TO THE INSIDER@SOCALBICYCLIST.COM

e will be looking at a common sense approach to safety and will include specific laws as they relate to the use of bicycles in our state. I will make a point to include relevant local municipal laws, ordinances and California vehicle codes. I’ve garnered my expertise in public safety relating to bicycles on public roads in California from my work with California SHSP (State Highway Safety Plan) FHWA (Federal Highway Administration) CALTRANS (California Dept. of Transportation) CHP and DMV. While riding your local roads, always bear in mind that statewide laws can be supplemented by local municipal laws. For example, when riding a bicycle in the city of Los Angeles, you are permitted by law to ride on a sidewalk “with due care and caution” (LAMC 56.15), but that doesn’t mean that it is lawful to ride on sidewalks everywhere else. If you prefer to ride on sidewalks, check wherever you plan to ride your bike. The consequences for breaking the law can result in judicial inconvenience and even a great monetary loss to you. According to the law a bicycle is not a vehicle. This can mislead many people to mistakenly believe that they are exempt from vehicle laws, but this is false. In California bicycle riders must obey all vehicle traffic laws (CVC21200) for their safety and the safety of others on the road. This also applies when riding a bike on the bike lane or path. Using common sense also means never riding in a way that poses a risk to yourself or those around you. Year round moderately warm and dry climate makes California perfect for riding bikes, however not in terms of legislation. California is not as bike friendly a state our neighbors Oregon and Washington. Both states have a more bike friendly city design with many bike lanes that have barrier protections. Unfortunately, California is a very car-centric state. With regards to safety, there is no law that requires a bike rider over 18 years of age to wear a helmet (CVC21212) but it is not a good idea for a very simple reason: concrete is harder than your head. So just for that reason alone I very strongly recommend that no one should ride a bike without a helmet despite that the law allows this. ▲ - CL

Questions can be sent to insider@socalbicyclist.com

CyclingSavvy - cycling savvy.org International Mountain Biking Association - imba.com League of American Bicyclists - bikeleague.org National Bicycle Greenway - nbg.bikeroute.com People For Bikes - peopleforbikes.org Rails-to-Trails Conservancy - railstotrails.org Streetsblog USA - usa.streetsblog.org

National Advocacy Groups:

Global Advocacy Groups:

Adventure Cycling Association - adventurecycling.org Alliance for Biking and Walking - bikewalkalliance.org

World Bicycle Relief - worldbicyclerelief.org International Bicycle Fund - ibike.org

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Introducing The Legislative Insider CARL LAWTON, A STATE TRANSPORTATION

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The Bike Pretty Straw Hat Helmet

SEE ALSO, “YES, THAT IS ACTUALLY A CSPC-CERTIFIED HELMET”

profiles

DWR

DESTINATIONS WITHIN REACH

This one-of-a-kind helmet sits at the intersection of safety and fashion. The straw hat cover is one of a number of hats designed and manufactured by Bike Pretty in California to fit YAKKAY bike helmets. If you’re looking to get some speed, you can quickly remove and stow the flexible cover, revealing a classy shiny black helmet. The Straw Hat Bike Helmet is very comfortable, looks great, and will get you a lot of compliments! Take this helmet for a ride to the beach, the farmers market or a picnic and let us know what you think. $150 bikepretty.com ▲ - WR

The Monkey Tree Hotel In Palm Springs THE MID-CENTURY MODERN DESERT HOTEL IS A PERFECT DESTINATION FOR BICYCLISTS.

Palm Springs is a place where you go to enjoy the wonderful warm weather, mid-century modern architecture, great food and atmosphere, and top-notch desert cycling opportunities. The Monkey Tree Hotel hosts all the accommodations that cyclists look for, and features sports recovery amenities which are excellent after a climb through the mountains or cruise along the sand. Kathy and Gary Friedle re-founded the Monkey Tree Hotel in 2016, originally made famous by its celebrity clientele, and now serves the Palm Spring area with a sophisticated and welcoming retreat for athletes. The Monkey Tree Hotel has a lap pool, sauna, cold and hot water baths, a salt-water pool, and plenty of lawn to strike your favorite yoga pose. In addition, they have a delicious high protein breakfast (including vegan options), a water fountain bottle station, and room service massages. The hotel sits just a few miles from downtown, off of Racquet Club road. No lock, no problem; bring your bikes into their spacious rooms, accessed from their private courtyard. Many rooms feature kitchenettes for comfort over multiple-day stays. A bike outing in Palm Springs doesn’t have to be complicated - the Monkey Tree Hotel has superb facilities for both the general audience and athletic enthusiasts alike. It is the perfect place to do some pool-side work and relaxation or engage in high-endurance training. ▲ - VP

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The Monkey Tree Hotel

2388 E RACQUET CLUB RD. PALM SPRINGS, CA 92262 THEMONKEYTREEHOTEL.COM (760) 322-6059

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Regulars

BPM Bicyclist Provisions Matrix #001 - Holiday Edition ‘16

Product review and images available on the website. Visit socalbicyclist.com and search the BRAND name for the write-up.

SOME OF OUR CHOICES FOR THE DAILY COMMUTER, ROAD RACER, TRAIL EXPLORER, AND ARMCHAIR BICYCLIST ON YOUR HOLIDAY LIST.

costly

on-Bike

powertap $1,200

showers pass $325

brooks $365

pedros $1,100

Leica $4,250

p1s power meter pedals dual-sided

hi-vis torch jacket w/ led lights

new islington rucksack, 1600 g

master toll kit 3.1, 80 tools

q, 28mm f/1.7 24.2mp camera

attaquer $180

osprey $180

lezyne $299

DJI $999

core static stripe jersey

radial 34 bike commute

port-a-shop tool kit

mavic pro 4k drone, 743g

inexpensive

MELD Saddles $325 custom carbon saddle + rails, 134g

PDW $88

Pearl Izumi $160

walz $99

SILCA $185

Sangean $50

bindle rack, 350g

elite escape softshell jacket

canvas “boom” bag

t-handle folio, waxed cotton

mmr-88 am/fm/wx usb radio

thousand $80

Fix It Sticks $25

ornot $78

heritage collection, 450g

mtb set, 4.5,6mm + t-25 + bracket

bryton $60 rider100 gps, ant+, 24hr+

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deFUNK it $20

Velo Press $35

the bar bag, 9”x5”

odor control kit, 3 month supply

hardcover, 300 pages

Sock Guy $14

TIMBuk2 $40

t-rex mas, turbowool, 6”

hidden messenger, stuff nylon

king cage $8 bottle lever, titanium

Endurance Conspiracy $21 where the pave ends 15 oz

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Features

The Noto Peninsula an international cycling destination in traditional japan Words: Cate Clark, Wilnelia Recart, and Victor Prestinary

Travelling in Noto

or those who travel internationally, the ultimate destination may be one that is completely unknown. For others, a chance to do something they love while experiencing a different culture. And for many, it is the return home. As the world’s cities become internationalized, the Noto Peninsula on the Sea of Japan is one place where Japan can be visited as a historical destination. The region is surprisingly accessible, and offers a huge sampling of traditional Japanese culture. Did I mention it has incredible cycling? Our crew went overseas to visit this area and discovered a land rich with experiences. Ishikawa Prefecture & Noto Peninsula Ishikawa is one of Japan’s 47 Prefectures, and its capital city

is Kanazawa. The Noto Peninsula makes up most of northern Ishikawa, and is bordered by the sea on all sides except for the Japanese Alps in the southeast. Culturally, Ishikawa’s regions vary - each having their own style of world-class crafts and festivals. The area is still traditionally Japanese and was definitely a treat to visit - in contrast to many international destinations that have become homogenized due to tourism. Ishikawa’s culture of heritage and preservation certainly plays a role in the continued success of this enclave of traditional Japanese living. Nanao & Wakuraonsen We based our trip out of Nanao City, central to Noto, and the entrance to Notojima. Japan lies on the Pacific Ring of Fire, giving this region natural hot springs, captured by the Japanese

The vegetable garden and fruit tree grove at Flatt’s Italian Restaurant and Hotel in Yanami.

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using their tradition of onsen. In Wakura, a suburb of Nanao, we found a number of hotels that double as onsen spas. Nanao is a quiet city with accommodations, restaurants, shopping, and weeks of possible day trips into the peninsula. Ride a bike around the city paths, along the country roads, or across the bridge to Notojima. Finish your ride back in the city for fresh cuisine, libations, and relaxing onsen. Notojima Notojima (Noto Island) is a rich source of traditional Japanese culture. The residents survive by fishing and harvesting sustainably from the forest, acting as stewards of the local ecosystem. Cuisine of the island is dominated by seafood, largely caught in the surrounding ocean. Two bridges connect

One of the tour bikes provided for our ride around Notojima’s country roads.

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A forest road near the seaside shrine in Nakajimamachi Shiotsu, To.

The Buddhist altar of Mieko Tateno in Notojima.

Sake tasting at the Tsuruno Sake Brewing Co in Ukawa.

the island to the mainland, where a forest-lined highway and country roads connect through farmlands and oceanside. Notojima has its own traditional festivals and many villages have their own Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple. Native plant and wildlife are well-preserved, including a pod of dolphins which recently made the surrounding waters home. A quiet and beautiful destination. Communication Many people in Tokyo and Kyoto speak English, but in Ishikawa, English speakers are more difficult to find. Using trains is not a problem and train stations often have considerations for international travelers. Many restaurants will have an English menu, even if the staff do not speak English. Like most Japanese, they will whole-heartedly explain anything

using gestures. We found our taxi drivers did not speak English, but all were very enthusiastic about making sure we found our hotel. Japanese is an interesting language to listen to; the Japanese are as polite in their conversations as they are in everything else. They acknowledge the speaker continuously, and have an almost competitive-like dedication to saying “thank you”. The two most helpful words you could learn in Japanese are probably arigatou (thank you) and sumimasen (excuse me/sorry). Learn these by observing Japanese speakers, and you will quickly find a multitude of ways to use them. Transit Japan was an incredibly easy country for us to traverse. The train network is a marvel of efficiency (sorry Europe!), connecting to almost every city in the country directly from

the airport. Taxi drivers are friendly and polite, and will go out of their way to help lost passengers. The Shinkansen is the highspeed train of Japan, and crisscrosses the landscape, connecting major cities throughout the country. At one point, we clocked it at 140 mph with our GPS, but it reaches well above that. Nanao City is reachable by a 1-hour ride by local express train from Kanazawa, the capital of the Ishikawa Prefecture, which is around a 3-hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo. Accommodations Traditional Japanese accommodations can be a challenge for those used to an American or European hotel. In most areas of Ishikawa, the traditional guesthouse, or ryokan, offers a pillow and comforter on a tatami mat for sleeping (on the floor), and bedroom walls can be very thin. However, the architecture often allows for roomy hallways and smart floor plans which can be highly modular. The Japanese also have a form of B&B and, if you’re staying in Nanao’s Wakura Onsen, which offers western style beds, your hotel will very likely feature a traditional onsen, or hot spring bath. Biking Biking in the Noto Peninsula is common and very normal. Bike paths snake through Kanazawa, and out into the peninsula. Most roads are wide, and drivers are slow and courteous. Many highways leading out of Nanao allow plenty of room for biking on the shoulder or feature bike paths along the side, making it easy to venture forth on your bike for as long as you’d like to travel. Notojima Island itself has a full-day of roads and climbs to explore, and with each turn, another valley, forest, or beach. This is a perfect destination for road cyclists or townies and commuters. Like SoCal, the Noto Peninsula has a wide range of roads, leaving cyclists free to plan the route of their dreams to any number of cultural destinations. Safety and Resources If visitors to the rural communities of the Noto Peninsula find it necessary to seek emergency medical care, the city of Nanao has three hospitals. We, unexpectedly, had to visit one on a Sunday afternoon and, contrary to traveler fears of getting injured in a foreign country, the care and treatment were compassionate, efficient and comparable to what you would expect from care in the U.S. Obtaining an airline’s medical insurance or just making sure to bring documentation from your personal medical provider is recommended in case of sport or accidental injury.

Map of Japan

Noto Peninsula Wajima X Noto Airport X

Noto Peninsula X Tokyo

X Yanami X Ukawa

X Enomemachi

X Nakajimamachi Notojima (Noto Island) X Shiotsu X Wakura X Nanao

Places of Interest socalBICYCLIST.com

Kanazawa

5 mi (continued on next page)

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Arts and Crafts of Noto

Curator Sadatoshi Torii at the Hanayome Noren Museum.

Sotokazu and Takeshi Endo at the Endo Tategu Factory.

Masanori Tamura of the Tamura Tategu Factory at his home studio.

Junko and Taichi Kirimoto at their Wajima Kirimoto lacquerware factory.

Yuki Tsuruno outside of her familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sake Brewery where her mother, Midori, is the Head Brewer.

BICYCLIST magazine

Bicycling around the Noto Peninsula, we discovered how this rural area offers visitors a picture of an older Japan, where residents continue centuries-old practices and customs in harmony with nature. Agricultural fields are bordered by areas of yellow goldenrod and feathery susuki grass. Between the ocean and fields, groves of deep green pine forests appear on the low hills dotted with black-tiled, two-story farmhouses. Traditional Residence and Garden On Notojima Island, we saw traditional houses constructed of local clay and covered with wooden slats. Under the eaves of the black-tiled roofs, hung bunches of onions, garlic and rice stalks, away from the moist ground. Nearby ponds were filled with egrets, and household gardens provided the azuki beans we observed drying on mats in the sun. They would later become the red bean paste used in cooking and confections. Red peppers harvested from the garden are also used in a craft. Skillfully braided with rice stalks, they become a decorative strand reputed to ward off evil spirits. With the helpful instruction of an 80-year-old Notojima resident, we learned to make our own hanging pepper protectors. Wajima Lacquerware By traveling to the western city of Wajima, on the Sea of Japan, we were able to enter the Wajima Kirimoto laquerware factory. This family-owned business has been operating for centuries and offered us an inside view of the 7,000 year-old craft. The intensive process involves preparation of wood: shaping, sanding and covering with linen for durability, then numerous coatings of the special urushi-nuri, a toxic resin that creates luster and protects the wood from mold. Lacquerware is popularly known for the black and red serving dishes used for special occasions. But we saw examples of other pieces, such as furniture and counters, and colors developed for everyday living, promised that future generations will continue this beautiful craft. Sake Brewery A visit to the Tsuruno Sake Brewery, a family-owned business located in its original 12th generation structure, was an opportunity to view the complex steps required to brew the famous fermented rice beverage of Japan. Made only in winter to prevent bacterial contamination, the layers of the special small, very white rice is layered with koji, the steamed rice with mold spores cultivated into it, and water. Cooled by the wind in hemp covered wooden containers, the alcoholic beverage is produced by squeezing, filtering and bottling according to traditional and very precise methods. Kumiko Woodworking Technique Shoji screens are fairly well known in the West, but other types of window treatments are found in the Japanese house. On such structures, tategu, can be found the delicate technique of assembling wooden pieces without glue or nails, called kumiko. Developed over a thousand years ago in Japan, this technique has been refined and passed down through generations of craftsmen. We were impressed by the creations of the Endo Tategu Factory and Tamura Tategu Factory. Ranging from lamp bases to large screens and partitions, they were adorned with millimeter-sized, precisely cut pieces of multi-colored wood, often depicting animals and landscapes. Only 20 craftsmen in all of Japan carry on this award-winning, centuries-old craft that requires exceptional precision and an artistic sensibility. At another location, we met an artist, Heki Saguramu, who uses his wood working skills to create pieces that incorporate glass and display abstract patterns. Viewing his work showed us how modern interpretations of a traditional art can be very appealing and even whimsical. Tea Ceremony Brought to the Noto Peninsula during the Maeda period hundreds of years ago, their traditional tea ceremony uses powdered green tea. Demonstrated by a master at the (continued on next page)

The pattern on a set of doors at the Endo Tategu Factory.

Japanese Tea Ceremony at the Kitajimaya Tea Shop in Nanao.

This strand of red peppers is a traditional craft of Japan.

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Authentic Noto lacquerware artwork on a door at the Endo Tategu Factory.

Mieko Tateno of Notojima.

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Authentic, high quality lacquerware plate hand-made at Wajima Kirimoto.

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Kitajimaya Tea Shop, we enjoyed our experience grinding tea leaves and observing the brewing technique and ritual presentation of the cup of tea. Of special note was the green tea candy. Candlemaking The traditional Japanese candle used for Buddhist celebrations, prayer and meditation since the 9th century, is shaped like a torch with the flat, circular top tapering to a narrower base. While all are made of organic materials (washi paper and wax obtained from the sumac tree), some are also made from plants found in central Nanao and produced in another shape unique to the Noto Peninsula. At the Takazawa Candle shop we were shown how the wick is hand-coated with wax, which makes it burn brighter and longer. After the wax has hardened, floral designs are often painted on these elegant candles available in many sizes.

Culture

Chef Ben Flatt and Chikako Funashita in front of the beautiful Flatt’s By The Sea

A sushi dish by Australian chef Ben Flatt

This Inyaku Shinto Shrine in Nanao houses the city’s hikiyama (float) for the Seihakusai festival.

Nobuhide Gennai is a local legend, a master wood craftsman and caretaker of a Laquerware artwork by Nobuhide Gennai on a Buddhist Statue which is carried around the village once a year.

forest preserve on Notojima.

On the Noto Peninsula, the bicycle is a common mode of transportation for residents and visitors alike. Available for rent, they are often used by visitors staying at an onsen (hot springs). At the Wakura Onsen we enjoyed the relaxing effects of the traditional Japanese bathing experience after a day of cycling through small farming communities and pine forests along the coast to various cultural destinations. Bridal Curtain Museum One of our destinations was the Hanayome Noren Museum where we viewed both old and modern examples of a local custom that originated in the Noto area in the 19th century and continues today. Bridal curtains bearing the bride’s family crest are hung at the entrance to the Buddhist altar room at the groom’s house for the bride to pass through as she begins a new life. These door-length or longer panels may be hand-painted on cotton or hemp. More often, silk is used and the kaga yuzen is made with a complicated silk print technique. Brilliant colors depict motifs from the Noto culture, such as a shellfish pail or treasure ship. Others we saw included representations of nature: a crane and turtle, a peacock, plum and peony. Enome Fishing Port Central to the Noto culture is the seafood obtained from the ocean surrounding the peninsula. Observing the pre-dawn fishing activity at the Enome fishing port gave us insight into the relationship the residents have with the natural resources they rely on. One morning, flashlights in hand, we walked the pre-dawn streets from our guesthouse to the small, brightly lit wharf that was noisy with fish-sorting machinery and generators operating on the boats alongside the dock. Burly workers in their rubber boots carried bins and dumped shiny silver fish onto large tables. Once sorted, the catch was loaded onto nearby trucks. An old woman in a bandana cheerily gave instructions and tallied the morning’s work. The vice director of the Notojima Aquarium surveyed containers to see if there were any unusual species or especially old survivors. Owners of local guesthouses made selections for the meals they would serve their guests later that day. (continued on next page)

(from left to right) Candlemakers Sachi, Hisashi and Yukie Takazawa, The town crest of Nagasaki on Notojima, repaired and refurbished by Nobuhide Gennai.

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and student Mika Nakazato.

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As the sun rose over the sea, the small boats left the dock, their nets and equipment stored. Trucks began moving up the road and the bright lights were turned off. The only sound remaining was from the sea gulls, hovering in the morning wind and fighting for scraps. In the now quiet morning, we walked to a shrine overlooking the ocean where our guide shared the local history and explained the historical symbols and what they mean to the residents of Noto. Shrines and Festivals A country that integrates its Shinto and Buddhist heritage, Japan is covered with shrines. Whether inside or outside the home, permanent or portable, large or small, the many shrines in Noto show the respect for nature and natural phenomena that is incorporated into everyday life. Large shrines and Buddhist temples are public places where ceremonies and blessings take place. But any of the seasonal festivals, whether asking for good weather and a bountiful harvest or giving thanks because they have occurred, will include the display of a shrine. Often portable, and sometimes with lanterns that are meant to guide the spirits, shrines are part of the many local festivals that occur from March through September on the Noto Peninsula. Kiriko Festivals Reputedly the most exciting festivals are the kiriko, where Notoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique illuminated lantern floats, often up to 40 ft. high, are carried through the city streets along with portable shrines, mikoshi. Occurring from summer to autumn, the celebration begins after the floats are blessed by the Shinto priests, and sake is poured over them and into the mouths of the men who will carry them. The neighborhood-sponsored floats may only be carried by local residents, but outsiders are welcome to participate in the activities. As sake continues to flow freely and festival foods are consumed, singing from the individuals on the floats can be heard throughout the night (continued on next page) Akiyoshi Moriyama, a prominent figure Nanao, stands in front of one of the retired wheels of a massive float pulled around the city during Nanaoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Seihakusai festival.

Embroidery on a Bridal Curtain at the Hanayome Noren Museum.

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Victor on a bike tour crossing the bridge from Notojima.

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Sunken charcoal brazier at the Enome-Sou ryokan in Enome on Notojima.

These Buddhist statues welcomes visitors at the entrance to the town of Enome on

Hajime and Sayako Koyama, our awesome

Masayuki Kitabayashi, a former trader,

Notojima.

tourguides of Notojima.

runs the Kitajimaya Matcha Tea Shop.

along with the sound of taiko drums. Koda Fire festival A dynamic festival takes place in the Koda settlement area of Notojima each summer. Using rice ropes, a vertical structure is built in a special field and then a water-soaked tree trunk from a previous year is mounted inside the structure and set on fire. Flames soar 100 ft into the night sky and as the blaze lights the faces of celebrants, many believe that how the pillar of fire falls indicates whether the harvest from the fields or the sea will be good. Seihakusai At the entrance to Nanao’s Fisherman’s Wharf, the location of a popular fish market and on-site barbecue, a 2-ton wooden wheel from a 20-ton festival float is on display. The floats are called hikiyama and are paraded around the city during the Seihakusai festival. Levers and sake-driven muscles are used to execute the engineering maneuvers needed to manipulate floats around corners as they move through the city streets during days of celebration.

Connection To Nature

During our visit to the Koda settlement on Notojima, we began to understand the connection residents of Noto have with nature and the care they take to live a sustainable life in harmony with their environment. The diverse ecosystems (humid forest, bamboo forest, marsh, plantation with irrigation systems, beach and sea side cliffs, in addition to seagrass) provide a welcoming habitat for native plants and animals, as well as various migratory bird species, including a recent visit by the rare Japanese crested ibis. United Nation’s GIAHS distinction This region is part of the United Nation’s Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS). Distinct from other heritage sites, regions with the GIAHS designation exhibit the interplay between the human community and its environment. Both shape each other and evolve in harmony. The Noto Peninsula has been affected by human habitation for 2,000 years, by way of rice paddies and the satoyama landscape. A satoyama landscape contains a mosaic of land uses, such as community gardens, forests, fisheries, water channels, and other uses that focus on generating a sustainable community. Celebrations Regional festivals and community stories are based on the interactions of humans and their environment. Multiple festivals celebrate the seasons and harvests on land and from the sea.

A seafood dish served at the Enome-Sou.

(continued on next page) A traditional lunch assortment at Ishiri-tei Akiyoshi Moriyama’s family restaurant.

Leaving at dawn for the second round of morning fishing in the Sea of Japan.

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The Fisherman’s Wharf in Nanao is known for its array of local crafts and its fish market.

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Shared stories about the origin of towns are often inspired by nature-related events, which is the case of Wakura Onsen. It is said that during the Heian period, fisherman saw a white egret healing itself from steam rising from the ocean and that is how Wakura (rising steam) was discovered and the town was formed. Gifts from the Land Besides the farming activity throughout the Noto Peninsula, household and community gardens are common. Vegetables, such as onions, garlic, green onions, peppers, and eggplant are grown as well as vegetables native to this region: nakajimana (a green leaf vegetable), warabi (a Bracken fern), Noto’s “dainagon” azuki (large red beans), persimmon, yuzu (a citrus), and a variety of mushrooms, including shiitake. Crops are used in day-to-day cooking and sold in the marketplace to be used by local restaurants. Some, like the large seedpod natamame, are pickled. This particular pickled plant is eaten with curried rice. The gardens are usually maintained by older women, oba-chan, whose charm and energy we found memorable and representative of Noto residents. The forest in this region is humid, dense and lush. Residents use the forest as a source for wood or to harvest understory crops, like mushrooms and edible wild plants. Locals see their use of the forest as a way to maintain the forest’s health and to prevent bamboo from invading the understory. In several areas, walking or riding a bike is allowed on forest paths. Gifts from the Sea Japan is well known for using resources provided by the ocean, including fish, shellfish, seaweed, and salt. On the Noto Peninsula, all of these resources are enjoyed and usually harvested using traditional and often locally developed methods. Various forms of traditional methods for obtaining sea salt are still used, even obtaining sea salt from seaweed. With over 200 different seaweed species, traditional food specialties using dried seaweed, nori, as well as fresh-raw seaweed, are numerous. One centuries-old method used for gathering food from the sea is diving. The Ama or “women of the sea” are freedivers who hunt for abalone, seaweed and shellfish. Plentiful and diverse, the fish and shellfish are reason enough to explore this region. Not only is the fresh seafood to be enjoyed, but also Noto’s traditional fish-based fermented sauces. Sustenance and Tradition It was inspiring to see how Noto residents understand the effect climate change has on their seasonal crops and harvests, as well as how their human activity affects the preservation of their ecosystem. They recognize themselves as part of nature and understand their impact on the land and sea. We found Noto unique and appreciate how methods used for sustenance can also help to retain traditions and cultural significance, even within a region that is becoming increasingly modern. With new technologies and an aging population, the Noto communities are working hard to sustain their satoyama landscapes and retain their cultural heritage.

Our tour group guided by Nobuhide Gennai through a forest of Notojima.

Tips for your trip to Japan:

Food & Dining

Finding food in Japan is fun and easy. Restaurants are numerous - from quick, inexpensive convenience stores to homey noodle houses to world-class restaurants. It would be helpful to learn a few table manners ahead of time, but most importantly, pour beverages for your dining partners, if you’d like a refill. Restaurants Our first dining experience in the Ishikawa Prefecture took place at the Kanazawa train station where we enjoyed soba noodles and rice balls wrapped in seaweed. With a vegan in the group, we made careful selections when travelling. But once we arrived at our ryokan, a traditional guesthouse, we were privileged to enjoy a superb range of seafood, the speciality of Noto. Our vegan was treated to special vegetable and grain dishes as substitutes. Catering to special diets is not common in Noto, but with such a variety of foods, all of us thoroughly socalBICYCLIST.com

enjoyed our meals. At the elegant Oku Noto, with a breathtaking view of the sea and local artwork surrounding our table for lunch, we enjoyed an introduction to sauces prepared with locally made ishiri. Although Noto is famous for their seafood, especially oysters, this special type of fermented, soy-like fish sauce made from squid and other fishes is equally well known. Familyowned restaurants may have a family member or local friend who creates their own supply of this sauce which is used extensively in dishes and soups. For dinner at our guesthouse in Enome, we were seated near a sunken charcoal brazier where our hostess continuously grilled yellowtail, scallops, squid, oysters, and various succulent fish from the day’s catch along with mushrooms, peppers and a variety of other fresh vegetables. At the point where we couldn’t consume another bite, we asked for rice, which is the custom to signal satiety. Rice balls were then grilled and they were so delicious, we were able to consume a bit more before leaving our gracious hostess. In addition to the available alcoholic beverages, we enjoyed a robust, grain-roasted tea. The next afternoon, it was a special treat to have lunch at Flatts. An Australian-born, Italian-trained chef and his localborn wife delighted us with a meal that consisted of ingredients from their own garden and prepared, pickled, fermented or just served fresh by their own hands. Since they spoke English, we had an opportunity to learn about fermentation and the challenges of using seasonal plants. Along with their guesthouses, their property hosts many fruit trees above a dramatic view of the ocean. Using traditional Japanese food preparation techniques creatively, Chef Flatt prepared a very memorable meal. At Wakura Onsen we were more than impressed by the number of courses and variety of dishes beautifully presented at dinner. Ranging from soups and small samplings of vegetables, to sizable portions of various fish and platters of crab legs, we enjoyed the feast before retiring to the hotel’s onsen. In contrast, we had our last lunch at Ishiri-tei in Nanao, located in a small and cozy repurposed bank building. It was no less enjoyable and demonstrated that Noto’s friendly hospitality and expertly prepared seafood and vegetable dishes are consistently good throughout the region. Beverages The Japanese love to imbibe, and have general customs specific to drinking tea, beer, and sake. The Noto Peninsula is home to a number of sake and beer breweries, with options readily available at stores and restaurants. Plan a ride that begins or ends at a brewery or restaurant just as you would back home. Soba Tea, derived from roasted buckwheat, stood out among beverages, as well as Shochu - a clear liquor falling between sake and vodka in strength. Vending machines are also available nearly everywhere (even roadsides), and vend a number of cold and hot drinks - including beer and coffee! ▲

• Bring a Mobile Hotspot for easy access to internet • Obtain a Japan Rail Pass - unlimited use of trains throughout the country - purchase before leaving. • Print maps of your destinations with the addresses in Japanese • Exchange money in Japan. At the time of our trip, 1 US dollar was approximately equal to 100 Japanese Yen.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND PHOTOS, VISIT SOCALBICYCLIST.COM AND SEARCH “WAKURA” A local beer served at Flatt’s, brewed nearby in Noto.

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