Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
Issue
4
2020
Southern SOIL
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08
Contents 18 16
FAMILY FOOD TRADITIONS
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
IN CONTROL OF OUR IMPULSES
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28
38
a growing food movement
PAGE 08 \ AND AN INTERVIEW WITH DAD
PAGE 16 \ CROSSROADS FARM AND GARDEN, LLC
PAGE 18 \ UNDERSTANDING THE EFFECT WE HAVE ON OUR CATTLE
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TURKEYS
PAGE 22 \ A YEAR IN THE MAKING
04....... EDITORIAL
WILMOR FARMS PAGE 28 \ A BLOOMING FAMILY BUSINESS
32....... COMMUNITY GARDEN
NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
PAGE 38 \ MILKWEEDS
42....... SOME KINDA GOOD
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Southern SOIL
Editorial I think it’s safe to say that 2020 has been a tough year. A pandemic, a divisive election season, a rollercoaster economy have made it collectively challenging. Personal losses have compounded that struggle. I was heartbroken to learn this morning of the passing of Karen Smith, owner of Southern Native Plantings at Longwood Plantation. Karen was the kind of person that as soon as you met her, you just knew that she was even more beautiful on the inside than she was on the outside. She exuded a love for people and for plants. She simply glowed.
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Her loss will be felt for years to come in the local food community. But her influence will live on. Karen introduced me to the wonderful world of native flowering plants. She was a huge encouragement to me when I was first starting Southern Soil and when I asked her to sponsor our native plant feature, was more than happy to do so.
I know our community is full of similar stories reflecting both Karen’s kindness and her passion for plants and the wildlife they support. “As a whole, perfection in landscape is really unhealthy. You need to have some leaves that are chewed on …that’s what plants were intended to do - to feed wildlife, to feed insects.” I’d like to dedicate this issue to Karen’s memory. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that this issue features a flower farm and that the native plant highlight is the Milkweed. I will be planting a collection of milkweeds and spicebush this spring in Karen’s honor and I invite you to do the same!
a growing food movement
We extend our heartfelt sympathies to Karen’s family and friends during this time.
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
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Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
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My Dad (Bob Tatum) with his mother Gladys on the farm where they lived and worked. The family later moved into the City of Elkin where Dad spent his formative years.
a growing food movement
Family Food Traditions:
and an interview with Dad
by LeeAnna Tatum
Food brings people together. It carries memories.
have different personalities in the kitchen, but we’re
It connects through time and generations, across
all pretty good cooks who really enjoy being in the
the miles. Food is not simply necessary to sustain
kitchen and we owe that to her.
life, but it is food and the traditions around it that sustain family bonds, build relationships and strengthen community. When we get in the kitchen and cook, when we gather around the table to eat, we engage in a unique form of fellowship that engages all the senses and touches the soul. I grew up in a family where food was important. But it was more than simply eating food. Preparing the food was often a family event and meals were eaten together around the table. Some of my
My Mom (Judy Tatum) and I enjoying time together in the kitchen.
earliest memories are food-related; and when I
While Mom was the main cook in the household,
think about holiday traditions, I usually think about
Dad could hold his own in the kitchen too. He would
the foods (and all the good feels!) associated with
often make pancakes for breakfast on Sundays or
them.
for a weekday breakfast-for-dinner. He is also the
When I was about six years old, my family moved
undisputed Snickerdoodle King. Undisputed.
to Mexico where many of our food traditions
I have memories of sneaking snickerdoodles
changed as we were exposed to a whole new world
from the neat, even stacks that my dad would
of flavors and food culture. But there was also an
place them in as he removed them from the
effort on my mom’s part to hold on to many of our
cooling racks. (We had to sneak them because he
comfort foods (including iced tea) in a place where
didn’t appreciate having his neat, even stacks of
most of the items she was accustomed to finding
snickerdoodle perfection messed with.) I’m 45 and I
at the grocery store were no longer available to her.
still get in trouble when I eat his cookies before he’s
Everyone in my family can cook. Myself and my siblings learned to cook from our mom. We may
ready to part with them. When it comes to “comfort foods”, potato soup is (con tinued on page 10)
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what I want when I’m not feeling well. When I took
Together we have made jams and jellies. It was
a “sick” day from school, my mom would make me
something I was interested in doing after I had
potato soup. It’s still my ultimate comfort food, and
started gardening, but canning isn’t something I
it’s still best when she’s the one who makes it for
wanted to attempt on my own. My dad takes the
me. (But I’ve also developed my own pretty darn
role of recipe reader, keeping Mom and I on task
good variation of the original.)
throughout the process. We make a pretty good team in the kitchen.
We didn’t farm, hunt, fish, garden or forage for our foods. But as an adult, I took up gardening
I never had the opportunity to know my
and have taken steps to shorten the gap between
grandparents, which wasn’t something I really
myself and my food sources. This magazine is part
thought too much about as a kid. But as an adult
of that food journey and was born from my desire
I have come to realize that I missed out on a
to have a greater connection to my food and to my
great deal by not having that connection to earlier
local community.
generations.
We didn’t do canning in the house when I was
Interestingly enough, all four of my grandparents
growing up, but it is something that I have done
could cook. Both of my grandfathers were cooks
a few times as an adult along with my parents.
in the Army. My maternal grandfather had a restaurant in New York for a short time and my maternal grandmother was a short-order cook at one point in her life.
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As I have listened to my dad reminisce over the years, I have come to realize that my own food story is coming to resemble that of his early childhood. I took the time recently to interview Dad about his family’s food traditions. Dad grew up in Elkin, North Carolina, in a workingclass home which, by all accounts, was very happy and loving. His father was a painter and floorfinisher by trade and his mother was a homemaker. The cornerstone of the family, she devoted much of her time to growing, preserving and preparing food. Her name was Gladys and Dad describes her as being happy in the kitchen. She was also tidy and The Snickerdoodle King wielding his spatula scepter.
organized (my sister, not I, inherited that trait) and cooked mostly from memory.
a growing food movement
Dad enjoyed hanging out in the kitchen with his
“Really?”, I ask. “Every time?”. “Just about,” he
mother, especially when she was baking and there
replied. (Just goes to show, you learn something
were bowls and spoons to be licked clean.
new every day.)
When I first asked Dad to share his earliest food
Eventually, we moved away from lists. I was
memories, not surprisingly, I was provided with a
interested to know how the food got to the kitchen
list. Dad likes lists. Sometimes he gets going on a
in the first place. I knew my grandmother had kept
good long list and I’ll be forced to interrupt (using
a garden, but I was curious to know where the meat
my best Bubba-from-Forest-Gump impression) with
was sourced (because one of the lists included
a list of my own starting with “fried shrimp, boiled
things like chicken, ham and turkey).
shrimp...”. Then we laugh. “The Basketeria,” Dad says matter-of-factly. “Fried okra, corn on the cob, homemade biscuits, gravy, blackstrap molasses with butter - sopping it
“The Basketeria was owned by two brothers,” Dad
with a biscuit,” Dad recalls. “For breakfast we had
went on to explain. “One of them ran the farm and
oatmeal lots of times with buttered toast and a big
the other ran the market. Luke, I don’t remember his
glass of milk. Milk, coffee and iced tea were our
last name, … worked in the meat department and
beverages. Pepsi. When my mother made tea, she’d
he would custom cut your meat … You would phone
put a Pepsi in the big pitcher.”
(con tinued on page 12)
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in your order to Elsie Nixon (said with no hesitation. I’m not sure my own name would flow so easily from his lips) - she was the cashier and she would take your order - and they would bring it to the house in bushel baskets and set them on your back porch.” And here we are thinking that having our groceries delivered is a modern convenience! I have memories from over the years of Dad saying that they always had oranges and pecans in their stockings at Christmas. And I used to think that was odd. The lightbulb came on for me this year as I gathered a large basket of pecans and oranges from my yard this fall. It wasn’t odd at all, they were simply enjoying the harvest of the season. A theme that was repeated throughout our conversation. “We had persimmons, we’d have persimmon pie,” 12
Dad recalled (did he just smack his lips?) “They were in season in the fall of the year, you had to wait until they turn color and usually wait until they were dropping off the tree before you’d pick them because they’d be bitter if you didn’t. They were kind of a tart sweetness. She’d make persimmon pie,
The market where we shopped in Mexico (revisited a few years ago). Not exactly the same grocery shopping experiences that Mom was used to in the States!
making stuff up at this point. So, I put a mental pin in it to Google chinkawhatsits later. I had no idea what the spelling might be, so I Googled “nut foraging in North Carolina”. And what do you know? Chinquapins are a dwarf variety of the American Chestnut and are native to North America found
almost like a pudding but it was in a pie shell.”
prominently along the Blue Ridge Mountains
“We would go up on the mountain,” Dad recalled,
am, learning new things again.
“and there was a place where you could get
(though somewhat in decline these days). Here I
Chinquapins…”
“My dad was not a fisher or a hunter,” my Dad said.
‘I’m sorry. You got Chinkawhats?,” I interrupted.
go out and get a rabbit every now and then. I never
“But I did a little bit of fishing and hunting. I would did hunt deer.”
“Chinquapins,” he reiterated. “A little nut, real sweet. There might be one tree in a whole stand of woods,
“Every now and then I’d get a rabbit and she’d dress
but we knew where they were. Once you found one,
it out,” Dad said, referring to his mother. “She’d cut
you’d go back every year.”
it up in parts and fry it. I couldn’t dress it out like she did. She’d cut around the feet first and pull it
So, if I’m honest, I thought maybe Dad was just
up across the back and when she got to the head,
a growing food movement
she’d just pull the whole thing off with the head in
“And it thrilled her too.”
it.” (There’s a visual!) “Was it for her birthday? Or for Christmas?”, I ask. When she wasn’t removing rabbit heads, my grandmother was a prolific baker. Dad recalled
“I just bought it,” he said. “I don’t remember if it was
that she always did a lot of baking, but that even
any certain time of year, just when I had enough
more was done leading up to the holidays. Cookies,
money to get it. She always had to mix by hand, of
cakes, pies and fruitcakes were listed.
course, she had strong hands. But she did use the mixer when I got it for her.”
“She didn’t have a mixer,” Dad said. “On my paper route, we had a general merchandise type place. And I saved my money on my paper route and went
“What about your dad?”, I ask. “Did he ever cook?”
to that store and bought my mother a mixer.”
“Dad was a cook in the Army,” he replied. “He didn’t
Ok, I’ll admit that I teared up a bit here. I always
somewhere or something, he would cook.”
suspected as much, but this story made it clear - my dad was a mama’s boy! Ok, back to the
cook a whole lot, but when Mother was gone
Dad chuckled and then said, “we always teased
narration...
him about his gravy.” A pause as he looks over at
“And the owner of the store said, ‘don’t you want a
called it ‘pudding gravy’.”
baseball glove or something?’ and I said, ‘no sir, I want a mixer.’ And he thought that was pretty neat. It really touched him that I’d take my hard earned money and not buy something for myself but for my mother.”
me. “You make the same kind (dramatic pause) we
Ha. Ha. Everyone’s a critic. I like my gravy a little thick. Good to know I come by it honestly. Listening to my dad recall his memories from childhood, I felt like our family’s food journey was coming full circle. Eating foods in season, foraging, gardening, canning. I heard stories I’d never heard before and once again it was food that was making connections through time and generations. I highly recommend that if your dad is still living that you have a similar conversation with him this Thanksgiving. Get his list of favorite foods and allow that list to develop into the stories around the foods. Ask your mom and your grandparents too, if you are fortunate enough to have them. You never know what new things you’ll learn!
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Small Farm
Spotlight
I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
Crossroads Farm and Garden, LLC, located just
the position of being about to make the decision
outside of Alma, is a Certified Naturally Grown
myself. It’s been a good transition period.”
operation with approximately 1/3 acre of growing space currently in use. Andy Douglas recently transitioned into full time farming earlier this year. For the past three years, he has been farming part time, slowly building up the infrastructure, tools and experience he needed in order to be able to make the shift. Having grown tired of the corporate world and presented with the idea that farming could be 16
profitable, Andy began building the farm with the
“I really got started farming toward the end of last
intention of eventually leaving his job with the
year ... making sure things are going to grow and
railroad. In April of this year, Andy was laid off -
making enough to sell, that kind of thing … and that
providing him the opportunity to make his move
got us to where we are now. I’m really enjoying it.”
into full time farming. Andy has started out small with plans to expand the farm in the coming years. Ultimately, he plans to grow crops on two to three acres and there are plans to expand the chicken operation, as well as, adding pastures for larger livestock down the road. “Initially (farming) started out about the money,” Andy said. “I have a family, I have bills to pay, so I need the money. But then the more I realized how ‘dirty’ your conventional food is - it kind of changed course to ... we’ve got to get some better food to “I was laid off at the end of April,” Andy explained.
people. To my family, first of all, and then to my
“I’ve been enjoying every minute of it! I was in
community and everyone else.”
a growing food movement
The farm currently produces seasonal vegetable crops and fresh eggs. You can follow them on Facebook. Crossroads Farm and Garden, LLC is a member of the Way Green local food coalition and their products can be found through the Way Green markets.
“So then it became more about - I’ve got to figure out how to grow this right to make it better for everybody,” Andy continued. “And in the long run, it’s a lot more work now, but eventually, this starts taking care of itself. You don’t have to put as many inputs, you don’t have synthetic chemicals and fertilizers coming out here.” Andy doesn’t have a farming background, but he has learned a lot by networking with other farmers and through trial and error on his own farm. “I’ve
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networked so much and you learn so much that way… it’s amazing how you network with people and they’re so helpful” “I really didn’t have any experience,” Andy said. “I knew about nematodes and I knew they were bad that was really all I knew about growing.”
Andy Douglas with wife Erin and daughters Aubrey (age 3) and Abigail (age 5)
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IN CONTROL OF OUR IMPULSES Southern SOIL
Understanding the effect we have on our cattle when we are working them is the key to success, says Dylan Biggs
This article first appeared in A Greener World’s Sustainable Farming magazine, Summer 2020, pages 14-16, and was written by Dylan Biggs of TK Ranch in Alberta, Canada. Reproduced here with kind permission. For more information about A Greener World—home of the world’s leading labels—visit .
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What defines success when we are working cattle? Years ago success for me was just getting the job done. Now, success is about specific outcomes I want to achieve. At the end of the day, regardless of techniques, do’s and don’ts or rights or wrongs, they are all academic if the outcome isn’t achieved. The outcome I strive for now is calm, relaxed cattle. When I pressure cattle to ask them to move or turn, slow down or speed up, I want them to respond in a calm, voluntary manner. When a cow walks calmly through the gate into the corral or onto a stock trailer or out of the squeeze; or a herd walks calmly into a new pasture and they put their heads down grazing, that is my definition of success. To do this, I had to learn to take my cues from the cattle. I had to learn to listen to them so I could be in the right place at the right time and in the right manner. Self-awareness Getting cattle to do what we want can be quite a challenge. There are times when cattle truly are not interested in going along with our plan. There are also times when, in our efforts to get them to do what we want, we end up being in their way without even knowing it. On the surface this may seem rather unlikely—and 30 years ago if anyone had told me that I was the cause of many of the problems I was having moving an animal or a herd, I wouldn’t have believed them. It is always easier to blame the cattle, the dog, our spouse, kids, our help, the weather or
Negative associations Something people often feel compelled to do is increase the pressure on cattle the closer they get to the destination, whether it’s the gate, the corral, the barn or the back of the stock trailer. The closer we get the more you start feeling the anxiety of “I sure hope we don’t lose them now”—and the more pressure we instinctively want to apply. Without even knowing it, we start to push the cattle harder as added insurance. After all, no one wants to get to the gate, corrals, barn door or stock trailer only to have the cattle turn around and run off. Just when the animal is at the threshold is when we feel the strongest urge to rush the cow: to slap, poke or prod her to “make sure” she goes. It is almost an instinctive response and easily becomes a habit. Whether she goes or not, we have communicated to her that the closer she gets to where we want her, the more pressure she’ll experience—in other words, the more unsafe her life
“It is always easier to blame the cattle, the dog, our spouse, kids, our help, the weather...”
becomes. Then we assume that the cows don’t a growing food movement want to go there because they are afraid of [“whatever”]. It is something I observe everywhere I go, whether at places with thousands of head of cattle or with 10. We unintentionally teach our cattle that the places we want them to go are not safe because of the stress we create for them. I am not saying there aren’t circumstances where more pressure isn’t required. But the question is: are the cattle slowing down or on the verge of stopping, signaling the need for more pressure? If we are just pushing the cattle harder in response to our own insecurity or impulse there is a high probability of unintended consequences that can result in the moment, and that stress can accumulate over time. Trust and respect Some people believe all that is necessary to handle cattle successfully is enough kindness, compassion and patience. Yes, a compassionate heart is essential as a foundation for patience when working with animals. But if a cow’s mind is firmly fixed elsewhere we can whisper all the sweet nothings we want: it will be to no avail! If a bull’s mind is on cycling cows, sweet nothings will
TK RANCH
various other circumstances for the problems we are having working our cattle. But if we are going to have consistent success handling cattle, it is imperative that we become acutely aware of counterproductive positioning, pressure and/or timing. Otherwise we will be doomed to struggle from our own errors.
(con tinued on page 20)
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not walk him home. Nor will it prevent calves Southern SOIL from running back to find Mom or get cows to go pair up with their calves if fresh spring grass is on the menu after a long, cold winter on dry hay. What will work in all these situations is an approach to cattle handling that establishes enough trust and respect that the cattle will voluntarily yield to your position and pressure to go when and where you choose. If cattle are going to yield to your position in a calm responsive manner they must trust you and they must respect you. If you observe the hierarchical social structure of a herd you will know that the boss cow does not establish or maintain preferential access to the best of all things in her world without firmly establishing and maintaining respect from the rest of the herd. Observation is the key The reality is that the majority of cattle handling problems actually stem from instinctive human behaviors and it is imperative that we become aware of these impulses and tendencies around livestock so we can avoid the unintended consequences. Over the years I have had plenty of folks explain to me that their cows don’t want to do this or that because of “X, Y or Z”; my response is that while this may be true, it may also be that the cows want to avoid the human commotion that they associated with those specific locations. Several times I have been told 20that “the cattle won’t go into the corral.” But then I have worked their cows and have walked them right into the corral with no problem, where they stand there calm and quiet. Whether we are aware of it or not, every time we are handling our cattle we are training them. Training them to be more trusting, responsive and controllable—or less trusting, less responsive and less controllable. Becoming aware of the effect we have on our cattle when we are working them requires that we observe how they respond to us, what are they telling us. If we are listening they will tell us what we need to know to be in the best position possible at the right time and with the right kind of movement. Once we are aware of —and in control of—our instinctive behaviors we will be better equipped to handle cattle in a manner that gets the job done efficiently and safely, and with minimum stress. Further information Dylan Biggs offers regular practical seminars on low-stress livestock handling, including: introductory one-day seminars; intensive two-day cattle handling clinics; advanced cattle handling clinics; and custom cattle handling clinics. Find out more at dylanbiggs.com or call 1-888-8572624. Watch Dylan in practice in a Canadian Centre for Health & Safety in Agriculture video: youtube.com/watch?v=45jAC5PEqTI
How to corral OK
Cattle that are nervous and flighty in corrals are almost always behaving that way due to the residual nervousness of the ‘pasture gather, move and penning’ experience. The behavior in the corral is an indication and reflection of what went before the corral. If the milk is spilled getting to the corral it can be tough to remedy how the cattle behave in the corral itself. How you work them can make it worse, but even if one is very conscientious they are not going to calm down right then and there.
KRISTEN KELDERMAN, FARM AND FOOD CARE ONTARIO
(con tinued f r om page 19)
Let’s assume the location is the gate into the corrals. Ideally the cattle will be comfortable coming to and going through the gate into the corral. We don’t want them to associate the gate with fear or anxiety, yet that is what we risk if every time they get close to the gate we get anxious and start pushing harder, especially if we start making a commotion with noise and arm waiving to get them to go through the gate. We want them to want to be there but because of impulse we can easily do a good job of training them to actively avoid the gate. Maintaining a calm confident demeanor in all situations is ideal. The next impulse that is often acted on in combination with pushing harder is the impulse to push directly into the rear of the herd from behind. What this risks if this is sustained for any time at all is flaring out the side of the herd which will stop your movement and or worse the lead will flare out and in no time the herd is turning around and coming back on top of you. All of this can happen in short order and happen as a result of our actions, yet we invariably blame it on the cattle.
Dylan Biggs works with a group of yearling heifers Dylan and Colleen Biggs raise Certified Grassfed by AGW beef cattle and sheep and Certified Animal Welfare Approved by AGW pigs at TK Ranch in Alberta. Visittkranch.com
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a growing food movement
Turkeys:
a year in the making Thanksgiving! The day when the mighty turkey reigns supreme! This is the day when the turkey is the guest of honor, gracing American tables alongside the likes of cornbread dressing, candied yams, casseroles, salads and pies.
by LeeAnna Tatum
Turkeys are produced in this way at very high volume in order to secure an overall profit on small per-bird profit margins. In other words, the retail price of birds is kept at a minimum to meet consumer demand, but the volume of birds that are processed is what makes them profitable.
Turkeys are an integral part of the quintessential American holiday. Though not necessarily on the table for that very first Thanksgiving, first-person accounts do indicate that the Pilgrims contributed “wild fowl” to the meal which could have included the American Wild Turkey.
Because of the commitment and the time it takes for farm-raised turkeys to reach maturity, now, is the time to start planning for your fresh, local turkey for your next Thanksgiving celebration! So, while turkeys are on our collective minds, let’s have that conversation.
The Wild Turkey is native exclusively to North America and is a member of the grouse and pheasant family. Our domestic breeds of turkey that are raised today are all descendants of the North American Wild Turkey and the only other wild turkey species, the Ocellated Turkey in Central America.
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Unfortunately, most turkeys bought by Americans today have very little in common with their wild ancestors. Like most of our agriculture, the turkey industry has been, well, industrialized. Most turkeys sold for Thanksgiving meals in America will come from a factory farm. “Factory farms” are much more factory than farm. Those birds will live every moment of their lives in confinement. As with the poultry industry in general, they have been bred to grow very quickly and the emphasis is placed on quantity over quality.
As opposed to factory-farmed birds, farm-raised birds given access to pasture are able to live out their days exhibiting their natural turkey behaviors. (con tinued on page 24)
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They have access to fresh air, sunshine and opportunities to forage. These birds take longer to grow to a harvestable size and are bred for characteristics like hardiness and good flavor.
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and gives the consumer the opportunity to be truly invested in their bird and ultimately invested in the farm itself.
Comfort Farms, a nonprofit farm in Milledgeville, is in its second year of turkey production. Committed to sustainable practices and with a focus on heritage-breed livestock, they have their own turkey breeding program and also process the birds onsite.
“We cater to a customer that wants to go above and beyond what the commercial industry has created,” Jon Jackson, founder of Comfort Farms explained. “We are geared toward customers who want their animals to have a life led as a turkey. Want their turkeys to experience the most happiness and the most care in the short lives they have.”
Families are invited to come to the farm and either pick up their processed bird; or for a discounted price, can participate in processing their own bird. This program has proven to be very successful
For sustainable farming practices to be truly sustainable, they must be profitable. That’s why it’s important for consumers and farmers to have a clear understanding of the local demand.
a growing food movement
“What we’re essentially doing is helping the customer who wants to be more sustainable,” Jon said. “In order to be sustainable, the farmer needs to be sustainable. So, the price points need to be able to sustain the farm. There are three things we have to look at: what it costs to raise the animal and feed the animal, the man hours that it takes to care for the animals and then the reinvestment back into the program. The program needs to be able to pay for itself and give to the farm in reinvestment.” Turkeys that will be on the table next year, will need to be hatched this coming spring. Which means now is the time for farmers to plan and it’s the best time for consumers to let their local farmers know that they’ll be wanting a bird next year.
“It’s literally a year long process. The quicker they get on the waiting list, the better,” Jon said of consumers seeking a farm-raised bird. “And it’s worth it. The wait is worth it. There is a lot of care and love that goes into it.” Jon sees turkey production as a great asset to small farms possibly looking to diversify. “As a micro-enterprise on the farm, they command top dollar in the season,” Jon explained. “You grow them in one season. We raise all of our turkeys here and breed all of our turkeys here, so we keep a lot of those costs in-house.” “They produce a lot of manure that in turn will go back into the farm. They’re a great looking bird and (con tinued on page 26)
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really sought after during these seasons. It’s perfect because they start laying eggs in February and March and you have a month for them to hatch and then those birds will be ready for Thanksgiving. It’s very cyclical.” The key for both farmers and consumers is communication! Farmers need to know if there is local demand for them to grow turkeys and consumers need to know about the farmers near them who might be raising the birds! “For those who want to do this as a business, we can show how it can be profitable,” Jon said. “Having a grassroots social media campaign, being
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very integrated and intimate with your customer base is very important so they can know the integrity of your food, they can see it and they look forward to it every year.” As more and more consumers are becoming aware of the problems and the atrocities associated with factory-farmed meats, more alternatives are being sought. It can feel overwhelming to look at an entire system that needs to be changed. So overwhelming, in fact, many may simply choose to not act at all. So, for this moment and during this season, let’s focus on one animal. The turkey. This once wild
a growing food movement
and majestic bird that is native to our land. Let’s focus on one purchase. One connection between one consumer and one farmer. One choice for sustainability. One decision that can have a positive impact.
an investment in your local farms and a true celebration of the turkey? What better way to celebrate a season of harvest and thanksgiving than to have a meal that is centered around sustainable, local and humane agriculture!
It’s a purchase that most of us make only once a year, so why not make that purchase be
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Bright little day s Scattered all o Ye drape the hous And ye deck th 28
Ye are gathered to Ye are borne to Ye wither upon th Ye fade in the
a growing food movement
WilMor Farms:
a blossoming family business
by LeeAnna Tatum
Flowers are truly part of so many of life’s meaningful moments. Much like food, flowers are often present at the events that bring us together. And also like food, choosing flowers that are grown locally and responsibly is a great way to have a positive impact on your local environment and economy.
stars over the earth, se of mourning he hall of mirth.
o grace the ballroom, o the house of prayer, he snowy shroud, bride’s jeweled hair.
Just outside of Metter, is a multi-generational farm where flowers are abundant, roots go deep and family ties are strengthened through shared labor and purpose. Parents Mike and Rita Williams wanted a practical way to teach their children about the value of work and instill a positive work ethic. They decided that there was no better way to do so than having a farm - and WilMor Farms was born on the land that has been in Rita’s family for generations. The Williams’ four children are the ninth generation to live on the land which was given to Rita’s ancestor as a land grant from the Queen of England in the 1700s. “Our acreage here is part of the original 5,000 acres that he got in the land grant. So, it’s pretty cool to have it in the family for so many generations,” Rita explained. “So, we had the farm which we rented out to a conventional farmer at the
(A selection from “To the Flowers” by Martha Lavinia Hoffman)
time. And we thought what better way to get children to work than farming.” Though they originally planned on growing produce, the couple (con tinued on page 30)
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Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 2 9)
was impressed by Georgia Organics’ tour of the
that offer a cleaner alternative to the conventional
flower-producing 3 Porch Farm near Athens. After
flower industry by using natural and organic means
researching the area, they realized that they could
of fertilization, pest, and weed control.
fill a niche in the market here in Southeast Georgia. What started as a hobby and a way to teach their kids about work in 2015, has grown to become a source of income for the family. They plan to continue to expand with the intention that Rita will be able to transition full time to the business of farming. Daughter Josie has a budding appreciation for the flower business. “I have four children and they are homeschooled,” Rita said. “Josie gets up and gets her school done really early to come out here. This is her love.” In addition to being a practical teaching tool for 30
Georgia’s temperate weather allows for a fairly long growing season for summer and spring blooms and the use of high tunnels can extend those seasons. But even so, the flower season must take a rest over the winter months.
their children, the Williams wanted their farm to
Though there are no blooms to harvest, there is still
reflect their values. They chose growing methods
plenty going on at the farm.
Rita Williams with daughter, Josie
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Winter-hardy annuals will be going into the ground until early December where they will grow slowly above ground while putting down roots over the winter months. Flowers like bachelor buttons and larkspur will patiently wait until warmer weather encourages them to flourish in early spring. Because sunflowers have become such a signature part of the WilMor bouquets, they too will get an early start to their growing season.
New varieties of flowers are always being added to the mix. Rita plans to add in perennials by planting hydrangea and curly willow for added interest to the bouquets. Flower selection shifts through the seasons from early spring varieties to summer’s bounty and fall’s last offerings. WilMor Farms cut flowers are available seasonally through local retailers including: Whole Foods in Savannah, Canoochee Creek in Metter, Pittmans in Lyons, Food World on Fair Road in Statesboro and through the Statesboro Farmers Market. 31
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a growing food movement
Community Garden: Reaping What You Sow
by Sheila Moon
Sheila is the Outreach Coordinator for Ladies Homestead Gathering of Effingham County a local chapter of National Ladies Homestead Gathering whose motto is Empowering Women Through Homesteading. Sheila has a Bachelor’s degree in Family Consumer Science. She is a breast cancer survivor and strives to eat healthy and gardening provides a great way to do that. Sheila resides with her husband, and daughter in Guyton. She is a member of Zion Lutheran Church and involved in the management of The Zion Community Garden.
Tending to one’s garden is much like tending to one’s family. When I was young, canning really wasn’t much more than a boring chore that I needed to help with if I wanted to have tasty food to eat. I would often hear my grandma talk about how beautiful those sweet potatoes look in a jar shortly after they were canned. Sure, I thought, but they will really taste good when I want some sweet potatoes with ham especially on my birthday (which is in February). As time went on and I met my husband, then had my daughter Isabella and I became more concerned about clean foods. I began to ask more questions, and I also began to can with my husband’s and mother’s help. So just as I waited for my sweet potatoes to mature this summer and tenderly cared for them, cutting back the vines and pulling weeds when I needed too; so did my mother, my aunt, and my grandma
patiently wait for me to anchor my roots and take up the mantle of gardening and stocking up for the winter months with fervency like they did. They all waited a long time, and kept dripping those values of good food and the nourishment of growing your own food on me like a slow gentle rain. As plants mature and grow stronger and bear their fruits and vegetables so did I. Now, I have a legacy of gardening and preparing food for those winter months to pass on to my daughter. Someday, maybe she will have her own garden, family and community to which she will carefully tend so that she can reap a plentiful harvest and life. Speaking of harvest, let’s get down to the nitty gritty of harvesting the sweet potatoes. Oh, yes, the play on words is there because “gritty” is exactly what you experience when digging up sweet potatoes in Southeast Georgia. (con tinued on page 3 4)
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To dig them up, go about two to three feet out and loosen the dirt around the plant and then use a pitch fork to gently lift the ground up to be able to see the sweet potatoes that are under each plant. (I planted 12 sweet potato plants and ended up with about four to a hill, reaping about 48 sweet potatoes in all or almost a 10 gallon bucket full of sweet potatoes.) After removing them from the ground, they will need to “rest” or “cure” for about one week. They should be placed on a screen allowing airflow around each potato.
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Why rest sweet potatoes you ask? Resting the sweet potatoes lets the sugar break down and ensures your sweet potatoes won’t spoil. I like to let mine rest for a week or so. Please remember NOT to wash them or let them get rained on before you get ready to put up your sweet potatoes. This will cause them to rot. After the sweet potatoes have rested it is time to can them. In preparation to begin canning you will need to wash (do not scrub) the sweet potatoes and then peel them. After peeling them some canners cut them in cubes, some quarter the sweet potatoes, the tradition in my family is to leave them whole as much as possible and dip them in lemon juice to keep them from turning dark after canning. You
can use freshly squeezed lemon or the real lemon you can buy in the store either one works. This time while I am canning my sweet potatoes, I will be making a video to share with my fellow Community Gardeners and my church congregation. This may help others to get inspired to start canning and it will help me get the word out that I have enough sweet potatoes to share if anyone else would like them!! We do a lot via the internet and video chatting these days. This is how I will be celebrating the holidays, Thanksgiving and Christmas, this year. My mom and I have committed to cooking at least a few favorites via Facetime together and of course one of those favorites will be my Grandma J’s Skillet Candied Sweet Potatoes (look for the recipe in this issue). Nothing makes a table look better than to fill it with your favorite recipes from loved ones who have passed them on to you. In closing, I would like to invite all of you to reflect on this tumultuous year on what you have sown and grown. Whether it be plants in your garden, flowers to foster our beloved honey bees or butterflies, or to carefully tend to your family and to foster traditions to pass on to the next generation. Remember to add faith, hope and love to reap all the benefits that these three ingredients can bring to one’s garden and to one’s family!
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RECIPES FROM SHEILA MOON
Recipe
36
Sweet Potato Christmas Casserole
tatoes or 8 fresh 2 jars of canned sweet po quartered sweet potatoes, sliced and 1/2 cup of butter sugar 3/4 cup of packed brown
1 pinch of cinnamon ffed Marshmallows 1 package of Kraft Jet Pu
Serves 8
Grandma always used the big marshmallows the t mini’s are ok too. (I do no recommend the Jumbo ones for this recipe)
es Preheat oven to 350 degre il them before potatoes you need to bo • If using fresh sweet ver the t with enough water to co po a in m the t Pu g. kin ba ok them a boil and continue to co sweet potatoes. Bring to . Remove a fork, about 15 minutes th wi rce pie n ca u yo til un from heat, and drain well. need to eet potatoes you do not sw ed nn ca ing us are u rously oiled 9x13 • If yo in, and place in the gene dra ply Sim s. oe tat po t boil the swee pan or glass baking dish. htly oil with h with cooking spray or lig dis g kin ba ss gla or n pa • Spray the 9x13 do the sides well). olive oil (make sure you king dish. oes in the pan or glass ba tat po t ee sw the ce Pla • medium heat. rate pan on the stove on • Melt butter in a sepa d the temperature to low and ad the n tur d lte me ely let mp ll blended. • When the butter is co and stirring it in so it is we y wl slo r ga su wn bro d cinnamon an glass dish and top eet potatoes in the pan or sw the er ov re xtu mi s thi eet potatoes • Pour sh them down into the sw pu of d kin d an ws llo ma mallow with the marsh oes, this allows the marsh tat po t ee sw the on m a bit while putting the lt on top. eet potatoes not just to me topping to get into the sw heated oven. The 25 to 30 minutes in the pre for h dis y mm yu s thi ke reful not to burn • Then ba and golden brown. Be ca up d ffe pu be ld ou sh marshmallows ke sure the potatoes easily done. Check to ma ry ve is it , ws llo ma rsh the pan the ma g into one on the side of ttin cu by gh ou thr y wa are warm all the beautiful roasted e of the overall look of the nc ara pe ap the up ss me not to marshmallows on top.
•
This recipe was a favorite of my Dad’s mother, my late Grandma Pauline
a growing food movement
Grandma J’s Skillet Candied Sweet Potatoes Serves 6
1 jar of sweet potatoes 1/4 cup butter 1/4 cup water 1 cup brown sugar (pac ked) 1/2 tsp salt • •
Mix butter, water, brow n sugar, and salt in a he avy skillet, preferably a skillet, cook until mixtur cast iron e bubbles. Add sweet potatoes, an d cook slowly turning oc casionally until potatoe caramelized (about 20 s get minutes).
I saved the best for last, it is the oldest most consistently used recipe from my childhood and more often than not was on the Sunday’s dinner table at my Grandma Johnson’s house.
RECIPES FROM SHEILA MOON
Recipe
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Pictured is a butterfly on the Asclepias incarnata buds.
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a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: Milkweeds
By Beth Grant bethgrant@bellsouth.net
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website. Native milkweeds have become very popular
milkweeds in North America, where the monarchs
in gardening in recent years as the plight of the
reproduce. The proliferation of monoculture GMO
Monarch has become more known. While many
crops accompanied by massive use of herbicides
species of the milkweed are not well-adapted to
in farming and along roadsides has drastically
garden settings, there are three main species that
reduced milkweed populations and other native
do well in Southern landscapes.
plants needed for biodiversity.
Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) has bright
There are government programs to encourage
orange flowers that needs dry, sandy soil; aquatic
spaces for nectar and host plants in the
milkweed (Asclepias perennis) is a small plant
countryside, along roads and power corridors, and
with tiny white flowers that needs moist to wet
near fields. And many individuals and groups are
soil; swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) has
planting milkweeds in their gardens, parks and
clumps of pink flowers and is more tolerant of
communities. While monarch populations have
typical garden soil. Also called rose milkweed and
increased, they are nowhere near where they were
pink swamp milkweed, it is one of the easiest to
in the 1970s.
grow and most successful at supporting monarch reproduction.
It’s important to avoid planting tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica), which does not die back
The Monarch Crisis
over winter in warmer climates. These milkweeds
In 2014, the populations of monarch butterflies that
that don’t die back, as native milkweeds do, or
migrate throughout Eastern North America and
get cut back, are much more likely to carry the
over-winter in Mexico were down 97percent! This
disease, OE, that causes casualties and deformity
information motivated much action to prevent the
in monarch caterpillars and butterflies.
extinction of the migration and efforts have been made to reduce the destruction of the forests in Mexico where adult monarchs rest for the winter. In the USA and Canada, there have been campaigns to increase the populations of
A non-migrating population has been established in Florida as tropical milkweeds became invasive there, with significant monarch losses and infestations of native populations. (con tinued on page 4 0)
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People are now encouraged to replace any tropical
evolved together, the insects specialized on specific
milkweeds with natives, and be sure to cut any
plants for their caterpillars, evolving the defenses
tropicals left to the ground in October and again in
required to tolerate the chemicals those specific
January.
plants produce. There are three types of butterflies, including the Monarch that are adapted only to plants in the milkweed family. While the adults can nectar on many plants, they will lay their eggs only on milkweeds. No milkweed, no new generations of these butterflies. Likewise, the growing season of the milkweed coincides with the monarch’s migration. In spring, established plants will re-emerge from the
Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
40
ground and grow all summer. The flowers bloom in August and September in the South. This is when we see the most monarchs, as they return South and the last generation for the year is produced. That migrating generation will travel through Texas (up to 2500 miles, 50 to 100 miles per day!, roosting in large groups at night) to spend the winter roosting in great masses in oyamel fir trees in the Sierra Madre Mountains in Mexico. Monarchs are one of the few butterflies with a long migration. In March they migrate back to the The Symbiotic Relationship between Monarchs
southeastern US with successive generations
and Milkweed
stopping to reproduce, growing about 3-4 more
The food for most adult butterflies is the nectar
generations as they go further and further North..
from a variety of flowers. In return the butterflies
The northernmost generation migrates back South
and other pollinators enable the plants to reproduce
in late summer when the swamp milkweed is
by spreading the pollen of the flowers. However,
blooming, so we are most likely to see our greatest
when it comes to reproduction, there is great
numbers of monarchs and reproduction in August
specialization between the plants and animals.
through October. Then the plants go dormant as the
Many insects can lay their eggs only on specific
weather cools.
plants (called host plants), as these are the only
All native milkweeds die back completely in the fall,
ones their young can eat. As plants and pollinators
and usually return the next spring. It is a good idea
Photo by Ansel Oommen a growing food movement
to cut the large bare stems of swamp milkweed
It is easiest to start with healthy plants, preferably
back to the ground after the leaves drop, as they
from a native nursery or native plant sale. Big box
will not re-sprout from the stems the next year and
stores are notorious for putting pesticides on or in
might carry disease.
their plants with inconsistent warnings.
Fall is the natural time to plant seeds outside. To
In the spring, the native milkweed plants may be
grow in pots, it is ok to wait until spring but you
dormant, so all you see is soil. Each plant will do
should keep the seeds in the refrigerator (to mimic
best if given about 3 square feet to grow in mostly
winter cold).
full sun, with some shade tolerated.
Growing Milkweed
They are happy to grow in wet and moist soils like
Swamp milkweed grow naturally in much of the
they do in the wild. They need to be watered when
USA and eastern Canada, hardy in zones 3 to 8.
first planted; but once established in the garden,
They can be grown in the ground or in large pots.
they do not necessarily require watering except in
Pink swamp milkweed can grow up to four to five
drought. They produce seed pods similar to okra
feet tall, with thick woody stems and long leaves.
and the seeds have floss like dandelions to carry
The flowers, like all milkweeds, come in dense
them in the wind.
clusters, they are a delicate pink in color and some say have a subtle vanilla scent. Quite lovely! They do not spread aggressively.
Pests Unfortunately, many milkweeds attract significant (continued on page 4 2)
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pests. Of course you don’t want to use any kind of pesticide or harsh chemicals anywhere near or on pollinator plants, as they can kill the butterflies, their caterpillars, and other pollinators, too! The most harmful pests are the exotic oleander Aincarnata Plant
aphids, tiny orange insects that suck the juice out of young leaves and flower buds. They can do significant damage to the plants if not removed. We smash the aphids with our fingers with no regret, as they are not natives. This will definitely get your fingers orange, but it washes off easily.
Predation is natural, but we wouldn’t buy ladybugs
It is best to eliminate them while the plants are
for the garden, as many sold are exotics and take
little, as their populations can multiply rapidly and
the place of the natives, and most fly away. Some
they become very difficult or impossible to control.
other gardners remove aphids with: water spray
They can even reproduce asexually! (That seems
bottles, small vacuums made for electronics,
downright unfair!) Many people wait for ladybugs
brushes, tape or removing infested branches.
and mantids to eat them, but we haven’t found this
Companion planting with marigold, onion or garlic
very effective in a garden setting.
may also prove helpful.
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Southern Soil Swag Show your support for the local sustainable food movement southern style! https://teespring.com/stores/southern-soil-merchandise
a growing food movement
Asclepias variegata. This is an invasive species of swampweed and can be harmful to Monarch populations, avoid planting in native gardens.
little things that grow through 5 stages, but in our gardens they have to go too! If you want to grow seeds or more plants for yourself or to share, you can also put little net bags over the seedpods. You can find these in the wedding decor section of stores. Pull the strings tight over the base of the seedpod when it is small. This works well to protect the young seeds and hold the mature ones until you can harvest them. You can make a difference for biodiversity by protecting and growing native plants and trees, and support the survival of the monarch migration by growing native milkweeds! I recommend you try pink swamp milkweed.
Space groupings away from each other to minimize the spread of infestations. Protecting Seeds Seeds and seedpods are the favorite food of the milkweed bug, a bright orange and black true bug about ½ inch long. We smash most of these colorful beetles, which also specialize (reproduce) on milkweed. You could also knock them off into
Beth Grant is Founder and President of Friends of Lost Creek Forest in Thomas County, GA, and has been the lead volunteer for ten years at the large public Cherokee Pollinator Garden at Cherokee Lake Park in Thomasville. She has volunteered at Birdsong Nature Center and its Butterfly Garden for over 20 years and has taught a slide show of Dr. Doug Tallamy’s book Bringing Nature Home over 50 times at Birdsong, garden clubs, libraries, schools, and symposia.
soapy water. Their nymphs are funny looking
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Foolproof Apple Crisp for the Love of Fall
45
I’m always sad to see summer go, but the
ol’ casserole dish. With its warm nutmeg and
food of fall and the excitement of the holidays
cinnamon spices, served alongside a scoop
quickly propels me forward.
or two of cold vanilla ice cream, it’s the fall
Today, I’m sharing a simple dessert featuring
season in a nutshell.
the classic fall fruit, apples. There are 14-layer
The crunch of the granola and earthiness
cakes, lattice pies, meringues and soufflés.
of the pecans, with the tart and sweet
Then, there’s Apple Crisp. Labor intensive,
combination of apples is foolproof flavor.
complicated desserts have their time and
After baking it, my home smells just like the
place, but a dessert that’s good enough for a
mountains, and makes me wish I was sipping
weeknight is good enough for me. No other
coffee in a rocking chair somewhere up in
delicacy screams fall and comforts the home
Tennessee, admiring the changing leaves.
and heart like it. What’s more, the dish is easily
Don’t forget to eat the leftovers for breakfast
adaptable for large or small crowds. Dinner for
the next day! My recipe serves 4-6.
two? Serve it in ramekins. Family coming for Thanksgiving? It’s time to dust off that trusty
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Foolproof Apple Crisp Filling:
Topping:
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and sliced
1/4 cup self-rising flour
1 Red Delicious apple, peeled and sliced
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 Tablespoons of granulated sugar
A good handful of chopped pecans
1 Tablespoon of cornstarch
1/4 cup granola
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 cup cold butter
2 Teaspoons each of cinnamon and nutmeg or more to taste 1/8 to 1/4 cup of granola 46
1 Tablespoon of lemon juice (This keeps the apples from turning brown).
Directions: Peel and slice apples. Place in a medium bowl and add the remaining filling ingredients. Set aside. In another small bowl, stir together flour, sugar and chopped pecans. Cut in cold butter with a fork or you can blend the ingredients quickly with your hands. Pour filling into a 1 1/2 quart or 8 x 8 casserole dish and top off with the brown sugar mixture. Sprinkle with granola. Bake in 375 degree oven for 35 – 40 minutes. Let cool slightly. Serve with ice cream and coffee, preferably on the porch. For more great recipes, like Apple-Pecan Honey Stuffed Pork Chops and Cinnamon Apples, visit my food blog at SomeKindaGood.com. Happy fall, y’all!
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
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