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6 minute read
Cellulose Fibers
Cellulose fibers come from plant-based materials treated with solvents or other chemicals to be broken down into a fibre that can be spun into a thread and weaved into a fabric. Many different plant-based materials can be used, but the most common type is wood from different sources.
Sustainable considerations in this category:
• Chemicals waste • Water usage • Management of sourced raw materials
Bamboo Viscose
Bamboo Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved bamboo wood pulp. In all cases, bamboo viscose is just viscose, as the bamboo is not identifiable in the end product.
Production
1. Bamboo is cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• It is a cheap fabric with a lot of functions
Cons
• A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • Leads to deforestation • Tough on the soil in which it is grown • Non-recyclable
Alternatives
• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose
Note: Bamboo is often wrongly portrayed as sustainable
Bamboo Viscose WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Viscose
Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees.
Production
1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Breathable fiber
Cons
• A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • A lot of trees are used in the production, contributing to deforestation • Non-recyclable
Alternatives
• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose
Viscose WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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FSC® Viscose
Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees. FSC® Viscose is similar to normal viscose, except for the fact that the wood used comes from sustainably managed forests.
Production
1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Comes from sustainably managed forests, certified by
FSC® • Higher transparency • Prevents deforestation
Cons
• A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers • Non-recyclable
Alternatives
• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Livaeco Viscose
FSC® Viscose WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Acetate
Acetate derives from cellulose and has the appearance of silk.
Production
1. The trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The cellulose is forced into a reaction with acetic anhydride 3. The material is then extruded and spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Comes from a natural raw material
Cons
• The chemical process is very extensive • The wood does not come from sustainably managed forests • A lot of water is used • A lot of chemicals are used which is bad for the environment and the workers
Alternatives
• Silk • Peace Silk
Acetate WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Modal
Modal is made from wooden chips from the beech tree.
Production
1. Trees are cut down and turned into wood pulp cellulose 2. The wood pulp cellulose is dissolved with caustic soda creating alkali cellulose 3. The material is absorbed in sulfuric acid which creates the viscose, 4. This is then spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Uses less chemicals in the production than viscose • A strong fibre
Cons
• The chemical process involved in making Modal requires a lot of water • High use of chemicals • The wood does not automatically come from sustainably managed forests
Alternatives
• TENCEL™ Modal
Modal WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Cupro
Cupro is a soft material often used as a cheaper alternative to silk. The fabric is made from cotton linter.
Production
1. The cotton linter is exposed to a mixture of ammonium and copper, creating a new substance 2. The new substance is submerged into caustic soda 3. Then dipped in a series of baths to reconstruct the cellulose 4. The thread can then be weaved into a fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Comes from a waste product (linter)
Cons
• Use of toxic chemicals • High water use in the chemical process
Alternatives
• Silk • Peace Silk
Cupro WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Lyocell
Lyocell is a form of viscose, produced in a closed loop.
Production
• Similar to viscose, but using non-toxic and organic solvents.
The chemical handling is done in a closed-loop system. This means both water and solvents are recycled and reused.
Pros
• Fast growing crop • Eucalyptus trees contribute positively to their surrounding environment • Organic non-toxic solvents • Closed loop system
Cons
• Using Lyocell that is not branded, can cause some uncertainty in regards to traceability
Alternatives
• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • TENCEL™ LYOCELL (Depends on the desired handfeel)
Lyocell WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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LENZING™ ECOVERO™
Viscose is a man-made regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolved wood pulp from trees. The wood pulp for LENZING™ ECOVERO™ comes from certified sustainably managed forests. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ has a fiber identification technology, making it possible to identify the fiber in the endproduct.
Production
• Similar to viscose, but produced with lower emissions and water impact compared to conventional viscose.
Pros
• Up to 50% less carbon emissions, compared to normal • Up to 50% less water used than for other viscose types • Wood from certified sustainably managed forests • Fiber technology to trace the fiber up to the final product • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers are certified with the EU Ecolabel for textile products
Cons
• Lack of availability • Higher price than conventional viscose
Alternatives
• Livaeco Viscose • Lyocell • TENCEL™ Lyocell
LENZING™ ECOVERO™ WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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