Natural Fibers

In this guide a natural fiber is defined as a fiber deriving from plants, which has not been dissolved into a cellulose.

They may include, but are not limited to, fibers deriving from cotton plants, flax and hemp.

Significant sustainability considerations in this category:

• Water use • Chemicals

Conventional Cotton

Cotton derives from the cotton plant and is grown in more than 80 countries around the world. Cotton is a very water consuming plant and is often protected from insects by using pesticides. Cotton can also be treated with GMO’s, to ensure a larger outcome of the individual plant.

Production

1. Planting the seeds and harvesting after 25 weeks 2. Ginning to remove the dirt from the cotton 3. Spinning the cotton thread 4. Weaving the fabric 5. Dyeing and/or printing 6. Cut and sew of garment

Pros

• Strong and breathable fiber • A natural fiber

Cons

• The use of harmful chemicals are bad for the environment • Cases of poor working conditions for cotton farmers • Potential loss of biodiversity • Uses a lot of water

Alternatives

• Organic cotton • BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) • Cotton Made in Africa • Fairtrade Cotton • Recycled Cotton (but virgin cotton must then be added)

Conv. Cotton WATER USE

EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE

PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES

AVAILABILITY

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic chemicals. This includes pesticides and GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Cotton is a water consuming plant, but since pesticides are not used, the soil has more natural nutrition and therefore it needs less water over time. Some argue that it needs more water, since you cannot protect the plant. When it is GMO free, you do not get the same outcome from the plant, hence you will need a bigger area. Choose organic cotton for the sake of not using pesticides, rather than saving water. If you want to save water, choose other natural fibers.

Production

1. Planting the seeds and harvest after 25 weeks 2. Ginning to remove the dirt from the cotton 3. Spinning the cotton thread 4. Weaving the fabric 5. Dyeing and/or printing 6. Cut and sew of garment

Pros

• No use of harmful chemicals which is good for the environment • Better conditions for the farmers economic situation because they don’t rely on big agrochemical companies • Better conditions for the farmers health because they are not exposed to as many chemicals • Better biodiversity

Cons

• The price is high • Uses a lot of water

Alternatives

• GOTS Organic Cotton

Organic Cotton WATER USE

EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE

PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES

AVAILABILITY

GOTS Organic Cotton

Organic cotton certified by Global Organic Textile Standard.

The following criterias must be met:

• Only use certified organic cotton • At least 70% of the material is natural organic fiber (contains organic fiber logo) and the garment contains max 10% synthetic fibers (except socks, leggings and sportswear) • At least 95% of the material is natural organic fiber • Working conditions and environment issues are checked throughout the supply chain • Packaging only from certified forests (e.g. FSC) and no PVC • Chemical content is checked throughout the supply chain • Accessories used on the garment live up to chemical restrictions – and no PVC • Lives up to the GOTS quality standard

Production

Same as organic cotton, but with a certifications process throughout the supply chain using Scope and Transaction certificates.

Pros

• Full transparency • No use of harmful chemicals • Better conditions for the farmers and workers • Use the certification in marketing (if you are certified)

Cons

• A lot of administration in managing the certification • The price of the organic cotton and the certification

Alternatives

None, this is as good as it gets within cotton

GOTS Cotton WATER USE

EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE

PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES

AVAILABILITY

Linen

Linen is a natural fiber deriving from the flax plant. Flax grows quickly and is not as water consuming as cotton. Conventional linen uses pesticides in the growing of the plant.

Production

1. The flax is harvested 2. Chemicals are added to speed up the retting process 3. The material is spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn

Pros

• Low use of water • Yields more crops than e.g. cotton

Cons

• Chemicals in the retting process • Use of pesticides

Alternatives

• Organic Linen • GOTS Linen

Linen WATER USE

EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE

PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES

AVAILABILITY