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5 minute read
Synthetic Fibers
In this guide a synthetic fiber is defined as a fiber made from synthetic materials, often created through a chemical process.
Significant sustainability considerations in this category:
• Chemicals • Microplastics • Use of fossil fuels
Polyamid/Nylon
Polyamide/Nylon is made from coal or petroleum and is a plastic. It is a strong and lightweight material.
Production
1. Two acids (diamine and adipic) are forced into reaction with heat and pressure, creating a polymer 2. The polymer is chopped up into nylon chips 3. The chips are melted 4. The melted polymer is spun into a thread 5. The thread is weaved into a fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Nylon is recyclable when made from 100% nylon • A strong fiber
Cons
• Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed
Alternative
• Recycled Nylon/Polyamide • ECONYL®
Polyamid/Nylon WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Acrylic
Acrylic is made from oil, and is a plastic material. It is often used in knitwear as it can simulate wool, and is flexible when used in combination with other synthetic or natural fibers.
Production
1. The polymer is created through a reaction technique called free radical polymerization 2. The polymer is then dissolved using a harsh chemical solvent producing a gel like material 3. This is extracted to form an acrylic fiber 4. This fiber is washed and spun into thread 5. The thread is weaved into fabric 6. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 7. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• When made from 100 acrylic it is recyclable
Cons
• Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed
Alternatives
• Organic wool • GOTS Wool • Wool
Acrylic WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Polyester
Polyester is made from oil, then added chemical. Polyester is a very strong synthetic fiber, which works very well as sportswear. When washed, polyester releases microplastic into the water.
Production
1. Through a chemical reaction at high temperatures, a monomer is made 2. The monomer is reacted with a phthalate to create a polymer 3. The polymer is extracted in long strips, which are then broken into small chips 4. The chips are then melted to a gel-like material 5. This material is then spun into a thread 6. The thread is weaved into fabric 7. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 8. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• It is recyclable, when made from 100% polyester
Cons
• Many chemicals in the overall process • Comes from fossil fuels • Releases microplastics into the water when washed
Alternatives
• Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester • Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester
Polyester WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester
Pre-consumer recycled polyester is derived from plastic and polyester products that have not yet been used by consumers.
Production
1. The recycled PET is broken into small chips 2. The chips are then melted into a gel-like material 3. This material is spun into a thread 4. The thread is weaved into fabric 5. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 6. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Cuts down on plastic waste or material waste in the factories.
Cons
• Releases microplastics into the water when washed • Cannot return to nature
Alternatives
• Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester
Note: You need to make sure that the garments you get are certified as recycled to ensure that it is, in fact, recycled materials
Pre-Consumer Recycled Polyester WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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Post-consumer Recycled Polyester
Post-consumer recycled polyester is derived from recycled polyester garments.
Production
1. The garment is melted 2. The melted material is spun into a new thread 3. The thread is weaved into a new fabric 4. The fabric is dyed and/or printed 5. The fabric is cut and sewn
Pros
• Contributes to a circular fashion industry
Cons
• Releases microplastics into the water when washed
Alternative
• None. This is the most sustainable polyester for now.
Note: You need to make sure that the garments you get are certified as recycled to ensure that it is, in fact, recycled materials
Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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PU
PU (polyurethane) is often used as imitation leather and has the most visual resemblance to real leather. Some types of PU leather are made from actual leftover leather, but has a PU coating on top of it.
Production
1. Through a chemical reaction at high temperatures, a monomer is made 2. The monomer is reacted with a phthalate to create a polymer 3. The polymer is extracted in long strips, which are then broken into small chips 4. The chips are then melted to a gel-like material 5. This material is then spun into a thread 6. The thread is weaved into fabric 7. From this polyester material, you apply a PU coating
Pros
• PU Leather is cheaper than normal leather • PU leather can be made into many colours
Cons
• Not breathable like leather • Does not lasts as long as real leather, as it can crack • It does not decompose • Made from non-renewable sources
Alternatives
• Leather • Vegan leather (non-PU/PVC)
PU WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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PVC
PVC is often used as imitation leather. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) is made from chemically altered oil and salt.
Production
1. Salt water produces chlorine through electrolysis 2. The chlorine is combined with Ethylene (deriving from oil), forming VCM (Vinyl Chloride Monomer) 3. This is melted and poured on the surface of a backing fiber, such as cotton
Pros
• Hard PVC is recyclable (so if PVC is used for zippers or the like, it can be recycled)
Cons
• Contains plasticizers which are known for their endocrinedisrupting abilities • The production of PVC creates dioxins (toxic chemicals known for their endocrine-disruptive and carcinogenic abilities) • A recycling solution for soft PVC has not yet been found.
Alternatives
• Leather • Vegan leather (non-PU/PVC)
PVC WATER USE
EN ISSUES VIRONMENTAL ANIMAL WELFARE CHEMICAL USE
PRICE SOCIAL ISSUES
AVAILABILITY
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