TIFFANY CHAN Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor DENISE CHAVEZ Art Director DANIELLE FENSON Creative Director MAX LA Writing Director SARAH MUSSELMAN Head of Public Relations MADISON DONHAM Head Photographer EDMUND FUNG Head Event Coordinator DEBBY GARCIA Head Copy Editor KATHERINE KYKTA Head of Accounting & Finance JUNE LOH Assistant Head Stylist KARINNA LOPEZ Head of Advertising & Marketing PRIYUNKA MAHESHWARI Head Model ANTHONY MAYAMA Head Stylist LILY ROCHA Head HMUA PAYGE WILKINSON Spring + Summer Staff 2015
Hamdiya Akbar Rachelle Allen Marilyn Arteaga Madalyn Brim Mercedes Collins Caroline Cook Jose Cruz Nancy Dominguez Alayna Enos Alfonso J. Estrada Ariana Garcia Ebanie Griffith Eleanor Grisebaum Hillary Henrici Ixchel Fernandez
Inez Hicks Lauren Hodges Sumayra Hossain Hira Jethwa Erin Kuykendall Claire Kwak Hannah Laamoumi Paulina Lam Tiffani Le Moses Lee TrĂŠ Miles Zara Mirza Maggie Molhoek Clare Moore Raquel Murillo
Naami Phanchaiya Darnell Porter Gabrielle Ramirez Wilfrido Rodriguez Sandy Sanchez Kalpana Satish Jessilee Shipman Epiphany Socco Ladees Tayem Melinda Taylor Maria Torres Juan Villareal Ellie Wendland Hannah Wilmeth Gabby Yu
Special thanks to Student Government, Senate of College Councils, & the University Co-op
SPARK
4 University
Fashion Group
Spring + Summer 2015
26 Remembering
56 NYFW Student
84 Urban Chic
Oscar de la Renta
Illustrations
Editor
30 The 1950’s: The
“New” Look
62 Inside the
Fashion Industry
Dream in the Fashion Scene
6 Revival Vintage
36 American
64 Creatures
100 White Out
70 Is Fashion Art?
102 Enchanté
76 Ralph Lauren
108 Summer
5 Letter from the
14 Luxury &
Sportswear
18 Alice in
Americana
Thrifters
38 Redefining
Gender
52 Dance
80 Growl
92 The American
Essentials
116 Alice
FUSION FASHION SHOW APRIL 23 2015 The University of Texas at Austin / School of Human Ecology Division of Textiles and Apparel / 5:30pm Fashion Alley / 5:30pm Immersed in Cotton Room / 7:15pm Runway Show \ Free Admission / Tickets available at Box Office \ Frank Erwin Center
ADVISORY BOARD
IT’S AS SIMPLE AS BLACK AND WHITE... Austin based handbag designer Kelly Wynne incorporates high contrast prints, bold pops of color, and paint inspired elements in her SS15 collection Chromatic Release. Available at www.kellywynne.com. . HANDBAGS KELLY WYNNE MINGLE MINGLE MINI ($335)
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or three and a half years, I have seen the University Fashion Group (UFG) evolve into an unstoppable creative network for students at the University of Texas who seek to immerse themselves in everything that is fashion. Since I first joined as a freshman, I along my peers, have had the opportunity to experience Austin’s fashion scene from a first hand perspective and meet with inspirational professionals who have experienced fashion from a global lens and yet have chosen to come back to work in fashion here in Austin. As president of UFG, my ultimate goal is to build a foundation of industry professionals who members can observe and learn from as well as provide a creative outlet for students of all majors who have an eye for fashion. This year, speakers have included local fashion designers, accessory designers, stylists, retail gurus, and buyers to name a few. Ultimately, I want members to attend meetings leaving inspired to create their next fashion lines, open their stores, and challenge themselves toward the steps necessary to achieve these goals. One of my favorite parts of being president of UFG is the opportunity to work closely with my team of about 30 officers who are the bread and butter of the organization. Without them, I probably wouldn’t remember my own name, nor be able to run such a successful organization at UT. From my two amazing Vice Presidents, Whitney Chan and Mong Bui to my Events Coordinator, Carolina Ramos, UFG would not be where it is today without them. As a team, we produce the UT fashion show alongside our amazing faculty sponsors Eve Nicols, Karen Bravo,
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and Ockhee Bego. Our objective for the senior fashion show includes producing a beautiful show that complies with the senior designers’ visions and I think we are on that track. After having designed last year for Spectrum, I’m so grateful to be able to plan this year’s Fusion Fashion Show for the senior designers—it’s truly an unforgettable experience. In addition to planning the UT fashion show, members of UFG are given the opportunity to join committees, such as the dressing committee, that grants them access as dressers to local fashion shows. As members, students become eligible to attend New York Fashion Week. This past February we had 17 members attend NYFW where they dressed backstage at Lela Rose. For the future, I hope to expand the amount of members that attend NYFW and increase our presence at other shows, in addition to establishing the trip as a UT sponsored trip. This semester UFG is coming back bigger and better, incorporating member feedback to improve meetings and events. For the first time ever, UFG hosted an interactive panel featuring three different speakers from across the board in the Austin fashion community. After this new event followed a special Gearing courtyard social sponsored by the School of Human Ecology and took place on April 7th. UFG has yet to host such an event and I am excited to have been a part of bringing this to UT students! Style on, Ronit Joselevitz University Fashion Group | President
Letter from the Editor
DIOR CABANA SUIT I Top Drawer
Stylist: Lily Rocha & Tré Miles, Photographer: Edmund Fung, Model: Tiffany Chan, HMUA: Eleanor Grisebaum, Layout: Danielle Fenson
“EVERY DAY IS A FASHION SHOW AND THE WORLD IS THE RUNWAY.” – COCO CHANEL
Spark embodies this idea and strives to support individuals as they pursue their passions. Spark is more than just a magazine; it is a creative space on campus that encourages collaboration among individuals with a love for fashion. I believe that Spark’s value stems from its unparalleled ability to provide students at the University with experience in the niche area of fashion publication. Spark offers opportunities to build portfolios, try a new craft, and hone existing skill sets.
hese words hang in a gold frame above my desk, and they inspire me to take ownership of my life in all aspects. Fashion isn’t solely defined by what comes down the runways of New York, Paris, and London. Fashion is a form of self-expression, and it is important to recognize that every day we have the opportunity to run our own show. Sometimes it is easy to get caught up with chasing trends – whether it’s that high-low hemline or the American dream. But know that you define your own style, and this extends past the clothes you put on in the morning. You have the ability to shape your life, chase your dreams, and become who you want to be.
All this would not be possible without the support of Spark’s dedicated staff and officers. They have poured an incredible amount of heart into their work, and I am blessed to be a part of such a wonderful community that values innovation, creative vision, and teamwork. Every day, I am surrounded by people who constantly push boundaries and are fearless in their exploration of what fashion means. To the staff of Spring+Summer 2015, thank you for your dedication and hard work. It has been a pleasure working with you all this semester.
T
Cheers,
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R V
EVIVAL INTAGE
A New Take on Vintage
Writer: Rachelle Allen, Stylist: Ariana Garcia, Photographer: Mercedes Collins, Model: Daniela Florez, HMUA: Sumayra Hossain, Layout: Marilyn Arteaga
RAINBOW COLORED DRESS I Revival Vintage BLUE HEEL I Revival Vintage HAND BAG I Marc Jacobs YELLOW EARRINGS I Frock on Vintage
LIGHT BLUE POLKA DOTTED DRESS I Revival Vintage RED HEELS I Frock On Vintage WHITE SUNGLASSES I Blue Elephant RED BELT I Blue Elephant
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ustin, in a nutshell, is eclectic. In a city built upon diversity and self-expression, it comes as no surprise to find its shops just as unique. The variation of shops within Austin stretch for miles, but one of the best shops lies hidden away past the University of Texas in North Austin. Tucked in the corner of North Loop sits a store called Revival Vintage. This little- known spot is a hidden treasure trove of all things vintage; from 1960’s silverware to 80’s prom dresses. When people first walk into the store they cannot help but feel embraced by the comfortable atmosphere. A clean-rustic feel paired with a modern twist, Revival Vintage is a small space with a big personality, as can be seen by its slogan “REwind, REvamp, REwrite your life: REVIVAL.” Looking around, it is apparent that this store, its owner, and the clothes have a story to tell. Luckily the owner, Sonia Rife, was willing explain Revival Vintage’s story as well as how she decided to go into the vintage boutique business.
SPARK: How did the idea for Revival Vintage come about? SONIA RIFE: I wanted to figure out what I REALLY wanted to do for a living. I tiptoed into selling Vintage first through Etsy. I then partnered with a friend with a common love for vintage. That partnership ran a short course while vending at the Austin Antique Mall. But the opportunity soon rose to open a brick and mortar on the North Loop strip. After having some selling experience, I knew I wanted to put a twist on my shop. I have always liked doing repurposing, so I figured I would repaint furniture, find different buttons for coats, shorten dresses, etc. While all the other Vintage shops on North Loop are indeed different, I knew this would be my difference. The revival of old into new. SPARK: What/how do you want customers to feel when they come into your store? S.R.: I definitely want a clean, modern vibe to come through Revival Vintage. The colors in my brand (white, black, bright green, and gray) are also important to a clean, modern, and crisp appearance. The store is small so it has to be well organized and easy to maneuver around. I always get compliments on how much I can pack into such a small space. That is about 70% of the job: Rearrange, Rearrange, Rearrange!
“KEEPING THINGS OUT OF THE LAND FILL AND BRINGING IT BACK TO LIFE IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME”
SPARK: Which era of fashion history best describes Revival Vintage and why? S.R.: Revival Vintage’s fashion ranges from the 20s-90s. Since most of my clothing customers are college age or in their 20s I try to carry more of “what’s in” vintage trend. I’m always on visual alert. Via Instagram, blogs, or just everyday street looks. As for house wares and furniture that can really vary. I love entertaining dishes, so I usually have a lot of that on hand. 50s-70s bar glasses, 60s California ceramics, fun ice buckets, Melmac and Texasware plastic colorful dishes.The furniture can range from all eras. Pieces are usually small but that would add someone exciting to your decor. Especially, the revamped pieces that I personally do. I like to add texture and color to the furniture; the modern twist. I have recently started to mix in new items including quirky gift ideas and humorous cards.
SPARK: What would you say Revival Vintage’s overall take
on fashion is? S.R.: The name came from the love and desire to turn an item into something modern. A revival of something old and forgotten into something refreshed. A lot of vintage clothing has either wonderful fabrics, cuts, design elements, or lines. By cutting the hem, changing the sleeve, or even reusing the fabric you can salvage the item. Keeping things out of the land fill and bringing it back to life is very important to me. Luckily today there are so many eras you can mix together. 40s shoes, 80s faded Levi’s, with a 60s psychedelic top, and a 70s floppy hat would be amazing modem look. Many of the college 20-something students are bold in style here in Austin. Therefore Revival Vintage tries to carry a taste from all eras as well as keeping a price point that all can manage. It is safe to say Revival Vintage is a store that focuses on the rebirth of fashion thus it is easy to see just how Austin and Revival Vintage go hand in hand.■
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LIGHT BLUE POLKA DOTTED DRESS I Revival Vintage RED HEELS I Frock On Vintage WHITE SUNGLASSES I Blue Elephant RED BELT I Blue Elephant
RAINBOW COLORED DRESS I Revival Vintage BLUE HEEL I Revival Vintage HAND BAG I Marc Jacobs YELLOW EARRINGS I Frock on Vintage
&
Luxury Sportswear E
levated sportswear—if you don’t know the name, you know the look. Proving to be more than a fad, this style of dress first came into the light about two years ago, and this season has shown us that it’s here to stay. For spring 2015, designers specifically honed in on sportswear minimalism. Names like Alexander Wang, Narciso Rodriguez, Opening Ceremony and J Mendel all presented looks that seemed like, an homage to all things Upper-East-Side-gym. Sneakers and tennis skirts in mesh and spandex present a sleek and fit image and an air of sophisticated physicality. Who could forget Chanel’s spring/summer 2014 runway, in which Lagerfeld sent Chanel sneakers down the catwalk in lieu of stilettos? Because of the consistency of this look, the phrase “upscale running shoe” is no longer met with incredulity, but rather it is met with critiques reviewing the show as youthful and alive. In fact Dior, that very same season, helped liberate the trend with jeweled sneaker slip-ons. Designers look towards the streets to establish trends, easily seen, because sneakerheads everywhere on the streets of Europe spearheaded this trend and now see it echoed into the world of luxury. This trend means less that the fashion world is now orienting itself within comfort than that they are paying more attention; widening the scope of their brand’s accessibility, perhaps that pure luxe is largely phasing out in favor of street style, in favor of something new and interesting and in something we haven’t been introduced to before. The glamour of nylon and high-cut onesies is tempting in that it’s slick and shiny and new—at least for now. ■
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Writer: Erin Kuykendall, Stylist: Wilfrido Rodriguez, Photographer: Hannah Laamoumi, Model: Inez Hicks, HMUA: Ladees Tayem, Layout: Marilyn Arteaga
“THE PHRASE “UPSCALE RUNNING SHOE” IS NO LONGER MET WITH INCREDULITY, BUT RATHER IT IS MET WITH CRITIQUES REVIEWING THE SHOW AS YOUTHFUL AND ALIVE.”
HOT PINK TOP I Frock On Vintage
lice in mericana Americana is a term that is synonymous with a classic lifestyle. Breezy whites and blues are calming colors that represent the famous ideals of simplicity and freedom that are so important to every American. When this triad of hues is paired with a relaxed atmosphere, the idea of freedom can be captured in an image.
Writer: Ellie Wendland, Stylist: Lily Rocha, Photographer:Edmund Fung, Model: Alayna Enos, HMUA: Payge Wilkinson, Layout: Danielle Fenson 20 I SPARK
RED POLKA DOT PEPLUM l Frock On Vintage POLKA DOT SKIRT l Frock On Vintage
Left WHITE LACE DRESS I Solid Gold Right BLUE JUMPER l Solid Gold AMERICAN STRAW PURSE l Frock On Vintage HEAD SCARF l Frock On Vintage
POLKA DOT BLUE DRESS l Frock On Vintage RED SCARF I Frock On Vintage SUN HAT I Frock On Vintage
BLUE JUMPER l Solid Gold RED SCARF I Frock On Vintage
O Remembering Oscar de la Renta by Zara Mirza
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Layout: Hayden Pigott, Illustrator: Rachelle Allen
O
I
n fashion, your trademark style is what sets one apart from the crowd. In the fashion world it is hard to make a lasting impression, but some designers like Oscar de la Renta will forever be remembered for doing so. Oscar de la Renta is a fashion icon because of his unique ability to create pieces that were modern, romantic, and feminine at the same time. His name and vision have become immortalized for this reason, and are still celebrated today. Crazy as it may seem, fashion design was not always his calling. Oscar de la Renta left his home in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic when he was eighteen to study art in Madrid with the dream of becoming an abstract painter. That dream quickly led him down the path he is most known for taking- fashion design. His impressive illustrations earned him an apprenticeship with Cristobal Balenciaga. In 1961, de la Renta landed his first real fashion job with Lanvin-Castillo. Two year later, he joined the American design house of Elizabeth Arden. By 1965, Oscar de la Renta climbed his way up the ranks with his own signature label. His name became so famous and his line became so popular that de la Renta served as the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of American from 1973 to 1976 and from 1986 to 1988. One of the aspects of de la Renta that truly made him unique was his undying desire to create no matter the medium. Though his haute couture is what made him famous, he also designed a line of furniture in 2002. Two years later, he created a less expensive clothing line called O Oscar, to appeal to customers that he was previously unable to. This versatility also led him to supporting many forms of creative expression outside of fashion, such as the theater and other arts. The thing that set Oscar de la Renta apart from other designers in the crowd was his incredible vision. A vision that has been described as feminine, timeless, and whimsical, due to his fearlessness in incorporating different inspirations into his designs. De la Renta was greatly influenced by Spanish style during his time studying there and created a collection that commemorated it. Similarly, he created a collection that celebrated fashions from around the world, and was inspired by the designs of clothing from Russia, India, and Uzbekistan. Not surprisingly his pieces had an appeal that was nearly universal, and they caught the attention of many prominent women. Everyone from first ladies such as Laura Bush, Hillary Clinton, and Nancy Regan to celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Amy Adams, have been spotted in his dresses. His pieces became symbolic and represented a classic American look with a twist that is still sought after today. In this way, Oscar de la Renta’s designs are practically embedded in our history. This past year, Oscar de la Renta died of complications associated with cancer on October 20 at the age of 82. Though he is no longer with us, his incredible work is still an inspiration to many today. Not only do his previous looks remain immortalized in history, but his brand is continuing to create clothing that embodies de la Renta’s spirit and artistic vision. His romantic, feminine style will no doubt stand the test of time and be remembered as one of the most influential of this generation.
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POLKA DOT DRESS I Frock On Vintage STRIPED DRESS I Top Drawer CARDIGAN I Top Drawer HEELS I Archive Vintage
1950s
the
the “New Look”
Writer: Ellie Wendland, Stylist: Karinna Lopez, Photographer: Darnell Porter, Models: Ixchel Hernandez & Ebanie Griffith, HMUA: Tiffani Le, Layout: Hillary Henrici 32 I SPARK
T
he 1950s are often romanticized by idyllic conformity and cotton candy sweetness, while in reality the decade was a time of sweeping change. The end of World War II ushered an expanding middle class in America allowing, for a surplus of time and money. This prosperity enabled newly-empowered middle-class Americans to strive for upward mobility and fed a desire to fit in with their suburban neighbors. Housewives, white gloves, and pearls often come to mind to represent this era, and although this is a stereotype, the image is not entirely untrue. During this time of political and socio-economic change, one designer had the vision to adapt clothes, once worn by aristocracy, to the ready-to-wear market. He created an elegant silhouette for the everyday housewife. This designer was Christian Dior who quickly became the most influential fashion designer of the age. He is credited with creating the famed New Look, a term that was coined by Carmel Snow, the then editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar. The New Look was a silhouette of voluminous long skirts, slim waists, and decadent fabrics. Dior drew upon memories of the styles his mother wore in the 1900s and correctly assumed that following a period of restriction Americans would enjoy a luxurious new lifestyle. This was a drastic change from the slim shape of the 1940s and thus a new period of embellishment and luxury began. Fabrics that hadn’t been as accessible during the war such as taffeta and wool became common materials. Dior began using pleats, padding, petticoats and corsets to help women achieve the desired perfect hourglass figure. Because of him, a tailored and defined figure became a common trend. These chic aesthetic extras were a luxury that hadn’t been available for many years and stood as a symbol for the changing economy in America.
When the New Look exploded in the consumer market, it began to be replicated across America, moving from couture to ready-to-wear. The look was popular because it not only paid homage to the early 1900s and a time of decadence, it also emphasized the traditional concept of femininity. During the war, women were an important part of the working class and dressed in appropriate attire for their jobs in the factory. Following the war, women were expected to return to their roles as homemaker, so that men returning from service could regain their position as breadwinner for the family. Ironically, as this social change was occurring Dior’s New Look cost women their freedom of movement and objectified them as a glamorous fashion figure, even while they did something as mundane as mopping the kitchen floor. Unlike today’s seemingly unlimited options for self-expression, the New Lookwas confined to essentially five garment styles: dresses that were worn for house work, formal suits for running errands, maternity dresses, and ball gowns for parties. This created a sense of competition between women because, while the style of clothing was very defined, there were a seemingly infinite number of patterns, materials, and colors from which to choose. To distinguish one’s self, each woman wanted to have a better garment than her friend or neighbor. This permitted self-expression within conformity. Although the 1950s are often characterized as traditional and unimaginative, the New Look can be appreciated as a recovery method from the hard times brought about by the war. Christian Dior brilliantly created a classic American style that continues to influence design throughout the decades.
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SILVER CARDIGAN I Top Drawer
POLKA DOT DRESS I Frock On Vintage STRIPED DRESS I Top Drawer CARDIGAN I Top Drawer HEELS I Archive Vintage
POLKA DOT DRESS I Frock On Vintage STRIPED DRESS I Top Drawer CARDIGAN I Top Drawer HEELS I Archive Vintage SUITCASES I St. Vincent de Paul
T
merican thrifters
he siren song of any fashion week is almost irresistible—the grandeur and sheen of a worldwide call for new colors, new shapes and new styles begs to be paid attention to and for most, viewers respond willingly. Watching with baited breath and open checkbook, the magazine editor, the department store shopper, the wealthy elite, all fall in line for this updating process—not only for the allure of new, beautiful clothing, but also for the title of “fashionable.” This coveted title denotes knowledge of the industry and recognition of the trends that be. But what happens for the average consumer, us desire-filled understudies? We the students, we the broke, we—we turn to the thrift-stores. Fashion, like most things, is cyclical: what we embraced and eventually rejected makes its way into the second-hand stores, awaiting the revival of the trend it stemmed from. This is our opportunity to snatch up this Spring 2015’s trends at a discount—local Austin establishments like Savers and Thrift Town are variable swamps of $4 fashion icons waiting to happen. And at that price, if gingham isn’t your grace, there’s no love lost.
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This season is particularly vintage-inspired, one of the biggest trends being a return to Nixon-era silhouettes, fabrics, and colors. A close second is the allure of Americana; a plea for shape classic shapes and patters, like plaid in shades of cream and black printed on blazers and boxy skirts. And finally the 70’s aesthetic was also prevalent this season: denim, fringe, paisley, and ruffles all made an appearance on the catwalk in multiple shows by the likes of Valentino, Chloe, Etro, Tommy Hilfiger and Missoni. Luckily, these three major trends are particularly well suited for translation into thrifted goods, especially considering the incredible amount of similar vintage available in local thrift stores. So, students and fellow cheap-skates, look on, and be inspired by this runway season with all the confidence that thrift store prices can give to actually bring ones dreams of a Dries van Noten style to reality. ■ A special shout-out to the owners and employees of Austin Antique Mall—an incredible location and fashion-supportive staff!
Writer: Erin Kuykendall, Stylist: Wilfrido Rodriguez, Photographer: Hannah Laamoumi, Models: Inez Hicks & Christian Trudeau, HMUA: Ladees Tayem, Layout: Marilyn Arteaga
SKIRT I Top Drawer FLORAL BLOUSE I Top Drawer
G
REDEFINING
ENDER
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THE FEMININE
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owadays, gender is not what you were born with, but rather what you identify yourself as. Fashion helps shape and alter this identification. This gets tricky because if a woman wears a tie instead of a necklace, something that isn’t traditionally “normal”, the woman can be judged for being “too manly.” The labels of masculinity and femininity are up for debate because now there is a discrepancy between what we have known all of our lives and what is now emerging. Just because you are a woman, doesn’t mean you’re restricted to only being feminine by wearing dresses and skirts. Modern day fashion has made us more aware of the interchanging gender roles in today’s society, even though gender roles have been imposed over hundreds of years. Now it is a battle between media, the public, and fashion to help us figure out gender and its place in clothing. Media has not always been a fan of the change and has constantly tried to shape our expectations of gender and what should be acceptable for women to wear. This has elevated the stereotypical vision and portrayal of woman. Stereotypes like these have elevated gender discrimination and sexism have become such a problem. In the fashion world, androgyny, or having the combination of feminine and masculine characteristics, has really taken over the spotlight. As society’s boundaries have changed, the femininemasculine boundaries have also evolved with them. Fashion has made it more normal to see a woman with a strong masculine bone structure and short hair on the runway. In 2012, Ford Models signed Casey Legler, the first woman who is exclusively modeling as a male model. Legler landed the modeling contract after her photographer friend, Cass Bird, invited her to a last minute photo shoot where she played the role of a man for Muse
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magazine. Agents at Ford Models celebrated this unique moment and signed her the next day. Casey has said that working with other male models has been nothing but positive. Because of women like Casey, many girls are inspired to not be afraid of what people may think. Fashion houses like Marc Jacobs and Givenchy have had women walk for their men’s collection. This appeal has risen since designers have felt that things were becoming too predictable. The whole “women wearing menswear” trend has really inspired designers and houses like Alexander Wang, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Miu Miu, and Prada. This past season, Miuccia Prada even placed a manifesto on every seat in the show stating “Gender is a context and context is often gendered.” With women taking on more powerful roles, it has become acceptable over the years to dress in stronger silhouettes. As fashion is evolving in the workforce, women have drifted away from the usual blouse-and-skirt look to something that makes them feel a little bit more dominating. Blazers and trousers are now a go-to staple piece in a working woman’s closet. Nowadays, a woman wearing a pantsuit is now hardly thought of as breaking the boundaries. Adding some strappy heels to your cute tuxedo pants can make one feel unstoppable. Don’t be afraid to wear the vest over a dress or to wear the baggy boyfriend jeans. A lot of the times, women like wearing men’s button ups and trousers because they’re way more comfortable than the tight skirts. It’s important for women and men everywhere to really use clothes to celebrate individuality and identity. There is no right or wrong answer in fashion. There are also no rules where one cannot be feminine as well as masculine.
Writer: Lily Rocha, Stylist: Tré Miles & Lily Rocha, Photographer: Hira Jethwa, Models: Ellie Wendland, Naami Phanchaiya & Ilissa Brown, HMUA: Melinda Taylor Layout: Hamdiya Akbar
THE MASCULINE
F
ashion has been an outlet for creative exploration and artistic freedoms since the Industrial Revolution. This expression through fashions is so impressionable that it is even considered a form of nonverbal communication. Unfortunately, for an industry so powerful and vast, it still has one major problem: it is so incredibly gendered. While the social climate becoming more progressive, with the work of the millennial generation who are pushing towards equality for race, orientation, sex, and more, there is still one glaring problem. As long as we accept the norm of gendered clothing, we are also allowing double standards to not only run rampant in menswear, but to create a restrictive and potentially harmful world for gender expression. Throughout history, sexuality was once more of a fluid construct and as a result so was the clothing. There was the gladiator skirt and the toga in ancient Greece and Rome, and the breeches and ruffles of the Rococo period. Men’s street style has had many standout moments of true unafraid expression such as dandyism (circa the 18th through 19th century), glam (circa the 1970s), and metrosexual (circa the 1990s and 2000s). It wasn’t until the past 100 years that men’s style became rather dull, with them once adorned in luxurious furs,
waist-shaping coats and peplum skirts, more recently men are societally restricted to a basic pant or jean and shirt, with the occasional nice suit or leather jacket. And although some may believe these eras in menswear were started within queer culture, it simply not true. These movements in fashion would have not have been possible if it weren’t for heterosexual men being the face of change. The pop culture and retail world is slowly realizing and becoming active in creating clothing that is undefined as so allows with the limitation of body structure. Many highly influential men have challenged the gender norms within menswear, from Beau Brummell, to the rock star David Bowie. Kanye West and A$AP Rocky have sported skirts, Kid Cudi wore a crop top during his Coachella 2014 performance; and Brad Pitt was shot for Rolling Stone in 2000 in many short, tight-fitting dresses. Even department stores have caught on to this tendency. A popular store in the UK, Selfridges, will be completely changing three floors of its store to no longer feature men’s and women’s clothing as separate sections but instead will soon have most of its floors presented as gender neutral. And although all of these stances are bold, gender neutral clothing still has a long way to go.
We may not realize it, but the gender binary in clothing is a form of conditioning. For example telling someone what they should or should not wear to give off a certain feeling or look or a dad telling his son “don’t do that because it is effeminate” are both forms of conditioning. It is that repressive attitude that forces young boys to not only reject what feels fashionably natural to them, but also bottle up their emotions and sexuality. When conditions of the suppression of one’s self-expression get serious enough there is even the potential for mental instability, impaired emotional health, and sometimes, even suicide. Today, thankfully we are in a time where that old pesky gender binary is slowly being faded out and a sense of gender neutrality is making its way from the underground into the masses. We must let men and women express themselves to their heart’s desire. In forming healthier ideas on sexuality in clothing, we are allowing for a more gender inclusive world. From high profile men to the everyday guy, the fashion industry is being challenged and changed into a much more open-minded and accepting one. When it comes to one’s dress we should all take a note from Orson Welles who said, “style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn”.
Writer: Tré Miles, Stylist: Tré Miles & Lily Rocha, Photographer: Hira Jethwa, Model: Jack Moren, HMUA: Melinda Taylor, Layout: Hamdiya Akbar
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CHIFFON DRESS I Raven + Lily
Dance
Writer: Priyunka Maheshwari, Stylist: Ixchel Hernandez, Photographer: Wilfrido Rodriguez, Models: Holly Jones, Lizzette Chapa,Veronica Boccardo & Nicholas Kao, HMUA: Zara Mirza, Layout: Hillary Henrici
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t some point, nearly everyone has been told that they have broken a fashion “rule”—a piece of antiquated advice that reminds the masses to not wear white after labor day, to match handbags with shoes, and to avoid denim on denim like the plague. But from the catwalks of Paris to street style bloggers in New York, one can see that the game is changing and everyone is breaking the rules. Style is ever-changing, and those who dare to risk non-conformity are the truly inspirational ones. In recent years, we have become aware of the fact that there is no wrong way to do fashion. Yet, the average person, however, still struggles with finding the line between outlandish and original. For example, the everyday college student who wants nothing more than to put a little spark into his or her daily outfits shies away because of the fear of ridicule—this is a person who has not gotten the message that it’s okay to break the rules. Perhaps the fashion world should follow the cues of the other arts, where the mentality of pushing the limits has trickled down to students here in Austin.
Lizzy Tan has been dancing since she was three, and has extensive training in ballet, tap, jazz, pointe, and contemporary. But despite her technical background, Tan self-describes herself as an artist, preferring not to pick a specialty or limit herself. “I love to improvise and create. I have a YouTube channel and I post new things that I’ve choreographed,” Tan said. “I think that not picking a specialty emphasizes your individual voice.” When asked about her favorite dance trend, Tan was excited to talk about the fusion of different dance styles. This fusion involves combining hip hop with ballet, or adding a funk element to classical. The lack of rules specifying which styles cannot be paired with others proves that the dance world is not afraid to mix it up. As a result, dancers are more willing to try new things and focus on their passions. “As with any art, if you focus on the aesthetics you will eventually succumb to negative pressures. You won’t ever be happy. Separate the purpose of what you’re doing and stream it from a personal place of individuality,” Tan said. Tan’s comments reflect some of the biggest flaws in modern-day fashion. Fashion shouldn’t be centered on whether other people will comment on an outfit, or even on whether other people will like it. Fashion claims to be a form of self-expression, but how can anyone truly express themselves while worried about made-up rules or the semantics of their outfit? Holly Jones, a trained dancer, is all about shaking free of these kinds of fears and worries. She believes that you don’t grow if you don’t put yourself out there.
“AS WITH ANY ART, IF YOU FOCUS ON THE AESTHETICS YOU WILL EVENTUALLY SUCCUMB TO NEGATIVE PRESSURES. YOU WON’T EVER BE HAPPY. SEPARATE THE PURPOSE OF WHAT YOU’RE DOING AND STREAM IT FROM A PERSONAL PLACE OF INDIVIDUALITY.” -LIZZY TAN shouldn’t be limited to the top of the fashion chain--anyone can make a bold statement. Jones describes this process perfectly when thinking about dance. “People have a mental image of what a dancer should look like. So then a lot of people think they’re not good enough to dance. It’s a growing experience and people should not judge you for your talent level.” The attitudes of these young women reflect the beauty of the dance world and suggest that this is a field of art where creativity and rule-breaking is embraced rather than shunned at an individual level. It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about Prada or pirouettes— the art world is interconnected and inspiration can be drawn from anywhere. If dance is any indicator of what is to come in fashion, perhaps we can expect a world where even young college students feel free to enter the game, and maybe even write their own rules.
In 1947, Christian Dior took a big risk by introducing a new silhouette. And in the late ‘70s Vivienne Westwood took fashion one (big) step forward with the introduction of punk. Taking risks
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NYFW STUDENT ILLUSTRATIONS
ZAC POSEN RACHELLE ALLEN
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2015 Collections Layout: Marilyn Arteaga
jenny packham By: Fernanda Rodriguez
jenny packham By: Fernanda Rodriguez
jenny pack
By: Fernanda Ro
JENNY PACKHAM MARIA TORRES
MARC JACOBS CLARE MOORE
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LELA ROSE ALAYNA ENOS
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SON JUNG WAN CLARE KWAK
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ECKHAUS LATTA AW ‘15 MONGOL HANNAH WILMETH
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ECKHAUSS LATTA by JUAN JUAN MANUEL VILLAREAL
MANUEL VILLARREAL
NAEEM KHAN HIRA JETHWA
MONIQUE LHUILLIER KALPANA SATISH
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Inside the Fashion Industry The fashion industry is known to have intense competition. To successfully survive and thrive in the fashion industry, one not only needs passion but also must be knowledgeable and skillful. It is essential to have the right knowledge and skills to excel and become successful in this industry. This article is a collection of valuable advice from alumni who studied in the Textile and Apparel Program at the University of Texas at Austin.
What are the top three skills you believe are essential to be successful for this position?
AMANDA SCHILLER DESIGNER AT LOFT IN NEW YORK CITY
Be a good listener. It’s important that things are done efficiently and done right the first time, to avoid wasting time redoing things. I’ve learned as a manager to be sure that whoever I am asking to do a project for me; is writing things down and are very clear what is being asked of them. Also be sure to work well with other people. People have to be able to trust you and rely on you. Being able to work well and build relationships with merchants, other designers, directors, visual and marketing teams will help you in your role and make you not only a better designer, but a well rounded and knowledgeable person. What skills should one possess to be prepared for a career as a designer in the fashion industry? I would say skills that should be innate in a designer are to be assertive, be opinionated, know the standard programs really well (Excel/Photoshop/ Illustrator), work efficiently, communicate well, have good hand drawn flat sketches, have a good eye for color and prints, be able to bring newness to the table, be respectful, and let go of your ego. What are one or two good habits you believe one should have when working as a designer in the fashion industry?
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Either write everything down or have a really good memory. There is too much going on all the time and if me or my assistant isn’t sure of something, that looks really bad, so I make sure either her or I are writing things down. It’s just a good habit to form from the beginning. I constantly hear assistant designers complaining they have too much to do to be able to sketch. Don’t complain. No one wants to hear it; we’ve all been in that position so we don’t pity you. Even if you have to sketch from home or work late, it will pay off later if we know you can put in the time to design. This shows that you want it and that you want a bigger role. Writer: Claire Kwak, Layout: Marilyn Arteaga
BANG NGUYEN
PRODUCTION & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FIELD AT YIGAL AZROUEL
What three essential skills one must possess to successfully work in the production and product development field? Think on your feet, things will always go missing from the office to the factory, so know how to replace them without purchasing more of those items. Have a schedule set up to show the work in progress (production and product development go hand in hand, one cannot start until the approval of another). Last but not least, be truly detailoriented. What advice would you give for future graduates interested working in the production and product development field? I suggest that people shouldn’t shy away from it because you didn’t “study” it. That’s what holds you back. Also you will have a better chance of interacting with more people/important vendors/factories. When you design for someone, you’re designing behind the scene at your desk most of the time and communicating through emails.
A short job description of head designer.
NATALIE POCHE HEAD DESIGNER FOR MADISON STONE
As a head designer at a contemporary label, I give the direction for each collection and execute every aspect of design from choosing color palettes, sketching, and to actually send out items for production. What are some important tasks of a head designer? I would say the most important task as a head designer would be executing your line in a timely manner before your show date. You have to set your own schedule of when to find inspiration and color palettes, when to sketch your designs and pass them along to the pattern makers, and when to source and order fabrics and trims. You also have to gauge the time it will take to receive the first samples from pattern makers, and once you receive them you usually will have to send them back out for a second sample after corrections are made to the first sample. Three essential skills a head designer should possess and why? The first essential skill for a head designer should possess would be to always provide a fresh and new idea to your line while maintaining your brand/company’s image. This is definitely a skill to have when applying for any kind of design job because companies want to see a sense of freshness, but they also want to be able to see how your freshness fits into their brand. It’s important to be able to blend your personal aesthetic with the company’s ideal customer and target market aesthetic. The second skill a head designer should possess would be the ability to work under pressure. As a head designer, you’re responsible for completing the line, and as I mentioned before, you’re in charge of setting your own schedule. Lastly, the third skill a head designer should possess would be the ability to understand how the whole design process works. It seems silly to say that, but it’s very true. If I hadn’t done my internship at Rebecca Taylor, prior to my current job, I wouldn’t have known all about the design process in New York. I knew the general idea of how it works, but my internship really set the foundation I needed. 65 I SPARK
C REATURES
The beloved creatures from Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland have distinct personalities and purposes. These characters have come back to life but this time they aren’t in wonderland anymore. The creatures have modified their personas to fit in with modern Austin life but they can’t quite disguise all their quirks.
Writer: Ellie Wendland, Stylist: Ellie Wendland, Photographer: Darnell Porter, Model: Tré Miles, HMUA: Sumarya Hossain, Layout: Moses Lee
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IS FASHION ART? THE THIN LINE BETWEEN ART AND FASHION
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ith every new creatively concocted fashion season and each new flashy museum exhibit featuring a designer, the question of the relationship between art and fashion is renewed. Now there are artists collaborating with luxury labels and designers making art. There is no question that the line between fashion and at is being continuously blurred, but to what exactly is the extent? Furthermore, if things like film, photography, and performance are starting to be accepted as art, where does fashion stand in this transition. The convergence of these two entities is not a new phenomenon. Around the onset of big fashion labels, an Italian designer, Elsa Schiapaelli, famous for work between the world wars, joined forces with Salvador Dalí, a surrealist artist, to make what is now her best known work. They collaborated to make pieces such as the Shoe Hat and the Tears Dress. Since then, collaborations have not slowed down. For example, Mondrian inspired Saint Laurent to create the 1965 Day Dress and more recently, artist, Takashi Murakami, had his smiling flowers on Louis Vuitton handbags in 2003. There have even been exhibits that have toured the country such as The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, YSL: The Retrospective, and Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty. The list of collaboration goes on and on to create a complex relationship between what is worn and what is perceived as art. ►
Writer: Sarah Musselman, Stylist: Erin Kuykendall, Photographer: Moses Lee, Models: Daniela Pachon & Erin Kuykendall, HMUA: Caroline Cook, Layout: Moses Lee
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Dr. Cynthia Jay, the Director of the Historical Textiles and Apparel Collection here at UT, believes that an artist is not defined by the medium the artist uses to express his or her creativity. Both an artist and a designer are creative in their own way. She goes on to say that all designers are artists “some are just better than others.” Dr. Ann Johns, an art history professor at UT, took a slightly different approach to the relationship between art and fashion by discussing about how in a post modern world we have broadened what is defined as art. She brought to question that if Duchamp can say that a toilet is art, why can’t all kinds of things be art? When thinking about this issue it is important to remember the purpose fashion and the purpose of art. Most basically, fashion or clothing rather, functions with the purpose of clothing the human body and protecting it from the environment. It is also an aspect of commerce that can be mass produced at regular intervals. Also, when looking at things from an economic standpoint, if a designer thinks of them self as an artist, while if the designer thinks about the consumer’s preferences it becomes less of an art and more of a profitable enterprise. Art in whole, is more fleeting and is created on the whim of the artist. Thus on a large scale there are distinctions between the two. But as one looks closer at the facets of each they find that there are commercial artists and commercial designers, just as there is high fashion and one-of-a-kind art and that brings to question, can anything that is classified art be mass produced like clothing is? The answer isn’t so clear when one thinks about Andy Warhol’s prints.
Even fashion shows nowadays are filled with artistry. Most quality fashion lines have strong concepts like art and runway shows have evolved into a sort of performance art over the years. Chanel over the seasons has been extravagant to say the least. There have been shows with nearly a hundred thousand personalized grocery store goods, there have been snow wonderlands, and there have been runways filled with wind turbines. This has happened largely because of the multitude of pictures and advertising that comes out of runway shows, but what is unique about the show is that it is put on for the experience of the viewer and it is not made to serve any specific purpose other than being viewed, much like art in the typical sense. It was interesting to research and find out that Muccia Prada, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Comme de Garcons, Rei Kawakubo, and Coco Chanel do not think fashion is art. To which Valarie Steele, a fashion historian and the director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, said “a lot of fashion designers deny fashion is art” making it hard to say that fashion is indeed art. Interestingly, Pierre Bergé of Yves Saint Laurent believes some of the largest names in the industry are artists, but he does not consider fashion to be art. He thinks the creation is art, but when it is worn by a man or women it becomes fashion. On the other side of things, designers Paul Poiret and Ralph Rucci felt as if fashion is art. A definite answer may never be reached and the tug-of-war between both sides continues. We must think of their relationship as a symbiotic one. ■
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RALPH
LAUREN Writer: Lauren Hodges, Layout: Hamdiya Akbar, Illustrator: Kalpana Satish
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n 1967, an immigrant’s son from the Bronx opened a tie shop in Manhattan, where he sold his creations under the name “Polo”. Forty years later, Ralph Lauren’s designs are in sold in every luxury department store, flaunted on every red carpet, and advertised in nearly every glossy fashion magazine. Today, Polo Ralph Lauren is one of the most instantly recognizable brands on the planet. Chances are you’ve rocked the famous pony logo on a collared shirt, a cap, a pair of flat-fronts, or even seen it on a bottle of perfume at least once in your life. Polo is truely an American icon. Although Lauren wasn’t the first great American designer, it’s safe to say that he has played a major role in bringing the United States to the forefront of the global fashion industry. There are plenty of other extraordinarily talented contemporary American designers- from Alexander Wang to Rick Owens to the Olsen twins- taking U.S. fashion to new heights, but no matter how exciting their work may be, the world’s image of American fashion begins and ends with Ralph Lauren- and likely will for many years to come.
So who is the man behind the pony? In truth Lauren was raised as a normal guy. He was born into a working-class family and got his start working in retail. Interestingly, Lauren was initially christened Ralph Lifshitz- he changed his last name to “Lauren” as a teenager. After two years in college and a stint in the army, Lauren, who was known by neighbors and family members for his eclectic style, worked as a sales associate first for Brooks Brothers and then for a small necktie manufacturer in New York City. His big break came with financing from a local clothing manufacturer, Lauren opened a shop of his own in 1967. There, Lauren sold both ties from established brands and ties he had been designing and making himself for years. Lauren’s “Polo” ties were European-inspired and wider than the average American-style tie at the time- and they were an instant hit. Just four years later, in 1971, Lauren expanded the Polo line and became the first American designer to open a freestanding boutique on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles. It was around this time that Lauren began selling his menswear-inspired women’s suits. The pony logo was originally included on the cuff of one such suit jacketand the famous polo shirts premiered a year later, in 1972.
Just four years later, in 1971, Lauren expanded the Polo line and became the first American designer to open a freestanding boutique on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles. It was around this time that Lauren began selling his menswear-inspired women’s suits. The pony logo was originally included on the cuff of one such suit jacket- and the famous polo shirts premiered a year later, in 1972.
Lauren’s designs grew in popularity throughout the 1970’s, especially after they were featured in two of the decade’s major films, The Great Gatsby and Annie Hall. Not surprisingly the line quickly expanded into sportswear, children’s clothing, accessories and home goods and in 1997, Ralph Lauren Corporation went public on the New York Stock Exchange. Today, there are several brands bearing the Ralph Lauren name and seal of approval (astonishingly, there are seven menswear brands under Lauren’s name- and that doesn’t even include men’s athletic wear!). In addition, Ralph Lauren owns operates over 400 freestanding stores all over the world, including stunning flagship boutiques in New York, Tokyo, Moscow, Paris, and London. And of course, Lauren’s many brands are sold in department stores in every corner of the globe. It’s safe to say that Ralph Lauren has brought American fashion to the world. Ralph Lauren offers fashion a unique perspective on the American dream. His designs are neither as blindly nostalgic as a Norman Rockwell painting nor as dark as the American dream-gone-awry portrayed by Don Draper and company on Mad Men. Instead, they’re a larger-than-life version of what people around this country wear- and what they want to wear. From the blazers, polo shirts, and jodhpur-inspired trousers that are pure East Coast prep to the thick leather belts and dreamy prairie skirts of the American west, Ralph Lauren’s designs represent many facets of American history, fashion, and culture. They’re both cinematic and immensely wearable; high fashion and homegrown. And Ralph Lauren is a lifestyle- you can buy a couture dress, a tennis outfit, a diamondencrusted watch and a set of bath towels all under Lauren’s name. Recently, Orange is the New Black star Taylor Schilling wore a show-stopping red Ralph Lauren gown to the 2015 Golden Globes (plenty of male actors rocked Lauren’s suave suits too). The US Olympic Teams have been sporting Ralph Lauren since 2008. And finally, half the frat guys on campus don a cap or t-shirt with the famous Polo pony nearly every day. Although he turned 75 last year, it’s clear that Ralph Lauren isn’t slowing down anytime soon. He is a truly self-made man; a living example of the American Dream at work. His clothes reflect this, and so much more- they reflect the fantasies and aspirations of an entire nation. For this reason, Ralph Lauren is the quintessentially American designer of our time.
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Writer: Ellie Wendland, Stylist: Karinna Lopez, Photographer: Darnell Porter, HMUA: Tiffani Le, Layout: Edmund Fung 82 I SPARK
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rowl is a local band comprised of talented and genuine guys. The band formed at UT and has since become an Austin staple. After they recently returned from their West Coast tour, I met up with them to find out what influences their style.
really gross and I apologize. This hat is my spirit animal. JL: Black jeans. I’ve worn white and grey, but usually hues of black. KH: I always wear shitty converse high tops when I play.
Do you have a favorite place you like to shop? JL: My dad’s closet. SH: Goodwill mostly for me. Spark: Do you have a favorite vintage item in your KH: And savers. closet: SD: All of our clothes are secondhand, well [Jonny] Jonny Lee: My dad’s old button up, it’s super soft. It worked at American Apparel for a while. definitely doesn’t fit him anymore but he was almost as JL: Yeah I’m kind of a denim junky. scrawny as I am. KH: I go to Macy’s for my Levis. Santiago Dietche: Mine is a family inheritance as well, I have a sweet pair of cowboy boots that my grandpa had on SH: Do you really? his ranch for 30 years. I don’t wear them because I don’t KH: Yeah they’re cheaper there. SD: I really like going to boot stores and like leather want them to change. places. We don’t shop at any of the men’s places here, like Kent Hale: I have something really similar; I have one of Stag because, we cannot afford them, but we always manmy Grandfather’s military jackets. It even has his jump wings from WW2. I’m always too terrified to wear it, but age to find what we want elsewhere. SH: I think finding the gems at the second hand stores is it’s really cool. better anyway. Sam Houdek: I have a cool TGIFridays silky employee jacket that my girlfriend got me last week. What is your dream band to go on tour with living or dead? S: Do you have certain things that you always wear SH: Weezer when you perform? SD: I’d like to go on tour with 2001 The Strokes. SH: I wear this hat every day of my life. I’ve been a hat JL: I’d go on tour with The Clash, that would be sick. ► guy since I was a little kid, so this hat, if you can tell, its
KH: I’m gonna also say The Strokes 2001. SD: You can’t copy mine! JL: Dude, that’s a really good answer though. How did Growl first come about? SD: Kent and I started the band from another band that we were in in high school. Later we started playing with Jonny. KH: He was my roommate sophomore year of college, so he was around. JL: I bought my way into the band. They said they were starting the band so I said ok I’m going to go buy a bass. SD: And then we played for maybe 5 months before [Sam] and his girlfriend of the time joined. SH: We broke up and then the band kind of tightened up and she formed a new band called Alex Napping. How did you get the name Growl? SD: There’s no funny story about that, at the time we came up with it and we thought it was cool and simple and nobody had it. Well apparently The Growlers existed, but I was unaware at that time. JL: Kent texted me and said the band’s going to be called Growl and I said, “Even though there’s a band called The Growlers?” And he said, “It’s fine.” SH: It’s one of those things where its cool and simple and nobody had it and then of course a year later there was The Growl and The Growlers, but it stuck and people remember it. How would you describe Growls vibe? SD: We usually call it garage pop when people ask us for a quick summary. It’s extremely poppy music but we give it an edge. SH: It’s a kind of loud messy pop. KH: We try and make people have fun at our shows. JL: A lot of songs about unrequited love… So we’re a pop band. What was the craziest show you’ve ever played? KH: Tallahassee’s up there… SD: We had a show in Tallahassee on or first tour, we showed up to play this Dr. Dog after show in a bar and I guess it got rained out because it was an outdoor festival. JL: Because we were in Florida. SD: So using connections from another band we moved locations. SH: A girl from this other band we were playing with had a boyfriend who worked at a shitty coffee shop in a strip mall. It was high school karaoke night but he said we could move there. We showed up and had to ask all the little kids if we could play a rock show. They were totally down with it and we had a super cool show, then we got hammered and did karaoke. Growl is a band that exemplifies what it means to be performers in Austin. They are talented and professional but manage to maintain their sense of humor and style, which is evident in their performances. The vintage aesthetic that each band member channels combines to create a classic look which is the perfect background to their fun music. For a group of recent college grads these boys have definitely carved a path to success! ■
Growl is a local band comprised of talented and genuine guys. The band formed at UT and has since become an Austin staple. After they recently returned from their West Coast tour, I met up with them to find out what influences their style. Spark: Do you have a favorite vintage item in your closet: Jonny Lee: My dad’s old button up, it’s super soft. It definitely doesn’t fit him anymore but he was almost as scrawny as I am. Santiago Dietche: Mine is a family inheritance as well, I have a sweet pair of cowboy boots that my grandpa had on his ranch for 30 years. I don’t wear them because I don’t want them to change. Kent Hale: I have something really similar; I have one of my Grandfather’s military jackets. It even has his jump wings from WW2. I’m always too terrified to wear it, but it’s really cool. Sam Houdek: I have a cool TGIFridays silky employee jacket that my girlfriend got me last week. S: Do you have certain things that you always wear when you perform? SH: I wear this hat every day of my life. I’ve been a hat guy since I was a little kid, so this hat, if you can tell, its really gross and I apologize. This hat is my spirit animal. JL: Black jeans. I’ve worn white and grey, but usually hues of black. KH: I always wear shitty converse high tops when I play. Do you have a favorite place you like to shop? JL: My dad’s closet. SH: Goodwill mostly for me. KH: And savers. SD: All of our clothes are secondhand, well [Jonny] worked at American Apparel for a while. JL: Yeah I’m kind of a denim junky. KH: I go to Macy’s for my Levis. SH: Do you really? KH: Yeah they’re cheaper there. SD: I really like going to boot stores and like leather places. We don’t shop at any of the men’s places here, like Stag because, we cannot afford them, but we always manage to find what we want elsewhere. SH: I think finding the gems at the second hand stores is better anyway. What is your dream band to go on tour with living or dead? SH: Weezer SD: I’d like to go on tour with 2001 The Strokes.
U RBAN CHIC
Americana is a term that is synonymous with a classic lifestyle. Breezy whites and blues are calming colors that represent the famous ideals of simplicity and freedom that are so important to every American. When this triad of hues is paired with a relaxed atmosphere, the idea of freedom can be captured in an image.
Stylist: June Loh, Photographer: Hannah Laamoumi, Model: Ellie Wendland, HMUA: Melinda Taylor, Layout: Danielle Fenson
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he American Dream
in the Fashion Scene
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uring the 1920’s the American dream held the idea that opportunity could be found in the land of freedom. It gave people the drive and courage to pursue new things in hopes of becoming successful. It manifested within the Declaration of Independence and embodied a sense of hope for immigrants coming to America in search for better life. Obtaining this dream was not easily achievable. For many people it took a drastic whole life change to achieve what could be known as the ‘American Dream.’ Many immigrants gave up their savings, culture, and life as they knew it in hopes of being successful in the promise land. And while America was titled ‘the promise land’ many people made such sacrifices without the promise of ever making it in this far away land.
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Today, we see people embodying this mentality on much smaller levels. It is not unusual in this day to give up everything one knows to pursue a career. Especially within high demand careers that encompass a small chance of actually making it. As these careers grow in interest, the chance of truly making it diminish, and success takes more and more sacrifice. This is what makes the fashion industry one of the most cut throat industries of them all. Every year, more and more people are willing to give up what they know to make it in the fashion industries. Subsequently, as more and more people are taking chances within the industry the stakes become higher. According to Tom Ford, making it big in the fashion industry takes hands on determination, every day sacrifice, and the ability to stand out ►
Writer: Katherine Kykta, Stylist: Erin Kuykendall, Photographer: Moses Lee, Model: Denise Zaldivar, HMUA: Whitney Chen, Layout: Moses Lee
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against others. While these things may seem easy on paper, achieving everyday goals in the midst of the New York City fashion scene is definitely more often said than done. So how could it be that an industry that may seem like materialistic, pretty designs draped on the bodies of models could be so cut throat? The textile industry reached America during the 19th century originating in England. Over time the industry has changed and evolved as the interest in what is fashionable has changed and become more and more accessible. Today, the fashion industry embodies what the American dream stood for in its original form. People who make it in the fashion industry give up most of what they know for a new life centered on the industry they love. Anna Wintour, editor in-chief of Vogue magazine left home and school at the age of 15 to pursue her career in fashion. She then worked for 24 years within different magazines and facets of the fashion industry before landing her current position as a
powerhouse of the industry at Vogue. Throughout the years, Wintour faced triumphs and defeat as well and her perseverance ultimately lead her to the top. Since, Wintour has been a driving force in making the fashion industry what it is today. Anna Wintour’s poise and drive has added to the intensity of Vogue and the fashion industry alike. The fashion industry is now known for embodying what could be labeled as the “American spirit.” Making it takes hard work, dedication, and many sacrifices well beyond what most people are comfortable with putting forth. People who make it have something special that makes them stand out against the rest. Teen Vogue’s Amy Astley says that those who make it are fearless, know what they want, dress the part, and say yes to everything. Getting to where one wants to be in the fashion industry takes similar drive and dedication as the American dream of the 1920’s. Those who make it are willing to do anything and give up everything to make it in the industry that they love. ■
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white out W
hen it comes to spring fashion, the runway is filled with all things bright and colorful and in some ways the color white can seem “unfit” for spring fashion because it is “colorless”. But spring is also about rebirth and renewal, so white, a color that through history has portrayed innocence, purity, and cleanliness is very fitting. White actually has a very interesting history in fashion. Beginning in the 20th century, brides in western culture wore white to symbolize purity. Doctors and nurses wore white to show patients how cleanliness is important in the medical field when taking care of patients back to health. In many cultures, wearing all white was the dress code for traditional rituals. This is because the color white has come to symbolizes new beginnings.
For reasons and associations like these, countless designers in the past chose the color white for their collection so they could portray something clean and chic. Many
looks on the runway that are all white are very elegant and create a look that is classic. It’s not hard to find and discover beautiful collections that are created with using only the color white. Even haute couture fashion designers like Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, and several other former members of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture adore the concept of using all white to create an artistically elegant and classic look for the runway. For instance, Chanel had several collections where majority of the garments where all white. All white is far from being boring, it can be breathtaking. The color white does not have to be only worn for special or formal occasions like it is traditionally. This classic color is stylish and suitable for everyday casual looks. For college campus fashion, wearing all white will not only be eye catching, but fun! Even though one is wearing all white, creativity is nowhere near limited. A classic white t-shirt, chic white skinny jeans, and a white cap is stylish and gives an effortlessly well put together daily look. The possibilities are endless when wearing all white. Be bold and go on a color detox for this spring and show off your all white style with confidence. ■
Writer: Claire Kwak, Stylist: Madalyn Brim, Photographer: Hira Jethwa, Model: Gaby Yu, HMUA: Tiffani Le, Layout: Moses Lee 103 I SPARK
EnchantĂŠ
Stylist: Eleanor Grisebaum, Photographer: Edmund Fung, Models: June Loh & Douglas Sechrist, HMUA: Sumayra Hossain, Layout: Jessilee Shipman 104 I SPARK
SUMMER ESSENTIALS
Writer: Raquel Murillo, Stylist: Marilyn Arteaga, Photographer: Mercedes Collins, Models: Anthony Mayama & Kathryn Holbert, HMUA: Olivia Arredondo, Layout: Juan Manuel Villarreal
Left BLUE JUMPSUIT I Frock on Vintage WHITE STONE NECKLACE I Blue Elephant Right BLUE JUMPSUIT I Frock on Vintage BLACK & WHITE HEELS I Creatures BLUE & GOLD BOWTIE I Frock on Vintage GOLD EARRINGS I Frock on Vintage
BLUE JUMPSUIT I Frock On Vintage BLACK & WHITE HEELS I Creatures BLUE & GOLD BOWTIE I Frock On Vintage GOLD EARRINGS I Frock On Vintage
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to full price denim shorts. Visit a second hand clothing store and f one does not like the weather in Texas, just wait a minute. see what they have to offer! If basic denim shorts are not exciting This is wise advice that holds much truth here in the Lone enough, take an ensemble up a notch with an Star State. Although, if there is one time of year awesome tank or t-shirt. Fun prints and graphics the weather remains constant for longer than do that, all while expressing to the world a fun 60 seconds it would be summer. When it comes to mood or message of the day. How else is one describing a typical Texas summer there is only “FUN PRINTS going to get about a bustling city with so one word needed… HOT… a condition that is AND GRAPHICS much to explore? Whether one is going cringe worthy. So, while the rain gods may for a picnic with friends at Zilker park or DO THAT, ALL WHILE not be in our favor around this time of year, climbing up the graffiti walls footwear that doesn’t mean the style gods are not! EXPRESSING TO THE makes the world of difference. Try Looking presentable and stylish when you WORLD A FUN MOOD pairing those cute cutoffs with a pair of only want to wear a maximum of two articles funky color blocked New Balance sneakers of clothing can be a challenge, but alas it is not OR MESSAGE OF or with some classic Keds. impossible.
THE DAY.”
The key here is comfort and breathability. When dressing for 100+ degree weather the way your clothing ventilates is vital. A summer staple for girls is a pair of denim shorts. With such a basic piece the possibilities are endless. Whether one likes them distressed and cutoff for a more edgy laid back look or clean-cut and modestly fitted, there is something out there. It is also important to not limit oneself
Lastly, and most importantly, as much as we all love our bronzed summer glow, keeping one’s eyes and skin protected should be something that is always kept in mind when heading out. Just tuck those tresses under a wide rimmed floppy hat and put on a pair of eye-catching sunnies and call it a day. Do not restrict oneself to a nocturnal lifestyle, enjoy all aspects of the summer day, sun and all!■
113 I SPARK
WHITE PEASANT SHIRT I Blue Elephant
WHITE STONE NECKLACE I Blue Elephant WHITE PEASANT SHIRT I Blue Elephant SHOES I Creatures
alice A whimsical and elegant exploration of the Americana style.
Stylist: Madalyn Brim, Photographer: Edmund Fung, Model: Ixchel Hernandez, HMUA: Eleanor Grisebaum, Layout: Danielle Fenson
BLUE JEAN OVERSIZED DRESS I Solid Gold
TRIBAL NECKLACE I Solid Gold