OCTOBER 2010
CONTENTS LETTER FROM THE EDITOR OUR TEAM FALL TRENDS
PLUG-INS Our November issue will be released next month! Want to see your family and friends in our next issue? Just send in a picture of yourself wearing an outfit and then send a picture of your parents wearing a similar outfit when they were
THAT GUY IN THE BOWTIE: RICKY HODGE
your age for our “Then and
Editorial: YOUNG BLOOD RUNS WILD
Now” article! The best photos will be featured in the magazine and the runner ups will be featured on our blog page.
STYLE ICON OF THE MONTH: DAPHNE GUINNESS AN INTERVIEW WITH BETSY BERRY
Send all photos to
DESIGNER OF THE MONTH: RICK OWENS
sfc_ut@yahoo.com by
Editorial: A MODEL POSESSED
November, 1, 2010 !
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR When my team and I began to plan for our October issue, we found ourselves obsessed with the avant-garde, the edgy, and the darker side of fashion. We sought out designers like Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh, who have built their names on their dark, avant-garde aesthetic. However, in the normal course of unpredictable events we call life, it’s clear there was something deeper brewing here. Halloween is as diverse as the people who celebrate it. For thrill addicts, it means horror movies, haunted houses, ghosts, masked murderers, and enjoying the rush of being afraid. For more adventurous mischief-seekers, this is the time for egging, tee-peeing, and letting oneself run wild. (For religious enthusiasts, it means turning off the porch lights and pretending you’re not home.) Regardless of where you fit in, we can all agree Halloween is a time for action. It is a time to recognize icons, but it is also a time to let one’s character be known. As the October issue came together, it became evident this issue was about much more than weird fashion. We interviewed Ricky Hodge, who has become Austin’s fashion scene’s “Man with a bow tie”. We were also able to land an interview with Professor Betsey Berry, living proof that UT faculty have more style and personality than any other faculty in the country. This month, we captured the essence of young character, revisiting those crazy teenage nights we can all relate to, but that wasn’t enough. We also got the opportunity to work with Dawn Younger-Smith, the designer of Boudoir Queen, whose creations led us to discover a woman possessed with the divine and decadent opulence of eras past. This culmination of identities captured our attention. These characters were stylish and outspoken, but never ordinary. With fashion in particular, it is character that stands out in a sea of trend-followers. Anna Wintour has her bob. Marc Jacobs has his kilt. Ricky Hodge has his bow-ties. As you explore these pages, we hope the strong characters in this issue will inspire you to identify and embrace your inner “bob” or “bow-tie”.
EDITOR- IN- CHIEF
OUR TEAM IAN MILAN Editor-in-Chief
AUTUMN ASHLEY
Managing Executive Editor
CHRIS NGUYEN
Head of Production, Head Photographer
Lisa Siva Writer
Andie Salazar Writer
Arianna Gazis Writer
FALL TRENDS EDITED BY AUTUMN ASHLEY
ETHNIC PRINTS Etro offered pure elegance with prints reminiscent of imperial China. Mimicking traditional Chinese garments, this black and gold dress was anything but “costumey”.
- Go tribal this season with an eclectic mix of prints and patterns like the looks at Missoni Missoni, and keep things elegant with structured pieces.
- At Rodarte, design duo Kate and Sara Mulleavy showcased bright patterns evocative of Latin America paired with their signature, frothy pieces. - Take a leaf out of Rodarte’s book by mixing bold patterns with feminine garments.
SWEATERS - Rag & Bone took a more playful tone, and the designers piled on layers of vests, fingerless gloves, and colorful scarves over sweaters for a personalized look. - The layered look can quickly go from funky to disastrous. Be sure to bring all the elements together with a classic piece like a crisp, white button-down.
- Prada showed us that sweaters can be reinvented simply by cinching the waist with a skinny belt.
- Sonia Rykiel proved that a creamy satin skirt can add polish to a sweater-based outfit, while remaining feminine and comfortable.
-Stella McCartney paired sweaters with tailored pants and shorts for structured contrast.
Power
Dressing
This season is all about taking old business staples – suits, pencil skirts, and blazers – and giving them a flirty, yet, edgy twist. Hello sheer button up, hello leather pencil skirt!
- Alber Elbaz reminded us that power doesn’t have to mean suits and skirts. Sometimes, it can be as straight forward as a knockout little black dress. Among a series of strong, empowering looks was a bodyconscious number that draped elegantly on the model’s body but featured the mutton-leg sleeves we saw at Dolce & Gabbana in fall 2009.
- For the bold fashionistas, adding a skinny tie can be a playful addition. - Keep things classic, like Chanel, with tweed, but throw on a modern, patterned blazer for a youthful look.
- The effect at Balmain was a little rock and roll with sheer, pinstriped top paired with an iridescent black neck scarf, fitted black leather. - Mix patterns and fabrics for a fresher look this season.
-The pencil skirt is a classic piece of the power suit, but Céline refreshed the look with leather. -Personalize the look with standout accessories, like a deep red clutch.
VELVET The sexiest thing your closet will ever know! Nothing feels like Velvet. `
Giorgio Armani proved velvet isn't just for drapes. Paired with flats, heels, bold jackets, or simple tops, a velvet skirt can be a versatile, luxurious, fall investment.
If you’re still seeking to spice up your velvet, try bold jewel-toned colors, like Zac Posen’s little red dress.
- Velvet alone can run the risk of looking to heavy, so follow Alexander Wang’s example and mix up the fabrics. Wang crafted a sexy cocktail dress that paired beige velvet with a sheer black bodice.
1950
- This season, Prada showcased sensual but sophisticated looks. Dresses with fitted busts and A-line skirts make for a flattering silhouette while remaining classic, though the modern patterns add a fresh twist to the classic fifties shape.
- Marc Jacobs turned the spotlight on the bust for fall with lower necklines and higher waistlines. It’s a silhouette that flatters women of all shapes, but be sure to follow Louis Vuitton’s example with a ladylike, flowing skirt for contrast. - Opt for structured outerwear to elevate the look with elegance.
- Several curvier models, including Missy Rayder and Angela Lindvall, walked the runway for the legendary Spanish house, Loewe, known for its exquisite leatherwork. - For eveningwear, consider slim classics with modern touches. Like the halter dress in brown leather or the little black dress paired with a white coat.
The 1950s were reincarnated with a much more appealing look. Necklines were lowered and we saw designers embrace natural curves and fuller figures.
CAMEL Camel tones were everywhere this season.
-Chloé layered camel upon camel. This monochrome palette, from head to toe, can be overwhelming. Chloé breaks up this look with a sexy chambray.
-Phillip Lim sassed up the traditional camel and black ensemble with a flirty leopard print.
- For bolder fashionistas, opt for Hermes’ tongue-in-cheek take on camel, with a classic English menswear aesthetic.
~ LISA SIVA All photos courtesy of style.com
THAT GUY WITH THE BOWTIE EDITED BY AUTUMN ASHLEY
Some specialize in haircuts, others in coloring. Ricky Hodge does both. As skilled as he is, Ricky is actually fairly new to the industry. He graduated cosmetology school in 2007 from
Baldwin Beauty Schools. Before getting involved with Kemestry, he spent a year and a half working at José Luis Salon. Prior to that and his time spent in school, he worked retail for Banana Republic and as a trainer for Roy's Hawaiian
Fusion Cuisine restaurant for ten years apiece.
CLEAN. MODERN. STYLISH.
Random as these previous jobs may seem, his work at
Roy's touches on another passion close to Ricky's heart: cooking. As a hobby, he says he loves to cook. And much like
The walls are stark white, the floor a cool concrete. Five
styling hair, it can become an art form of its own, with each
chairs face a mirrored wall, while, four chairs, crowned by deep
recipe, each slice of tomato, each shake of garlic powder, and
white sinks, line the back wall. Vivid red accents pop around the
each drop of melted butter adding individuality to a dish.
room, from an intricate chandelier to black-tinged, blood-red roses
When cooking he follows a recipe completely the first time
in a vase resting on a white table in the waiting area. There are red
through, then does it again to tweak it, improve it and make it
shelves and red framed photographs of styled hair.
his own. A few mentioned favorites are pasta, which he never
My favorite thing to do is highlights, says Ricky Hodge,
makes the same way twice, and Thai food, for which he
dressed in a pale pink button-down shirt, lime green bow tie,
recommends Thai Kitchen s website as a good sources for
cuffed jeans and large thick-rimmed glasses. "That, and men's
recipes. He claims Thai dishes are much simpler to make than
haircuts. I like the attention to detail that they require."
expected when the ingredient-congested recipes are broken
As he talks, a young blonde woman sitting in the chair before him
down and followed step by step.
leans her head back over the sink behind her. Hodge turns the
"I just like to look at recipes. I could sit down and look
water on and her light hair is soaked to a darker hue. A squirt of
at recipe books for a long, long time and go, God, I wish I
shampoo in his hand is run through her locks and worked into
could make that, the culinary enthusiast muses.
froth.Ricky Hodge is someone who clearly knows lives and loves
Hodge's love of breaking down recipes and his time spent in
hair and clearly, has done a lot of it.
the kitchen nearly sent him to culinary school. The only thing
The 41-year old stylist from Honolulu, Hawaii has been
that held him back was the extensive amount of time
through a variety of careers, changed direction multiple times and
required to gain recognition in the food industry.
finally set up shop in the East Austin Salon, Kemestry. Though he
But that by no means implies that a career in hair was a
has only worked there for five months, he explains that so far his
second choice. Make no mistake, Ricky loves hair.
signature bow tie, attention to customer service, and local publicity have added up to success.
Kemestry is unlike most salons, the name is derived from two latin words, "keme" and "stry", respectively meaning "earth" and "science". It is intended to reflect innovation in the field of hair, while at the same time remaining true to Mother Nature's roots. The salon also focuses on being "green", which fits well into the Austin eco-friendly scene. The space is also, owned by one woman, Angela Sims. Instead of hiring a staff to work under her, Sims rents out each of the five seats in the salon to individual hair stylists.
Beyond his styling services, his focus on customer service is also a major draw. From catering to clients' scheduling
So I thought, Well no one s going to wear a freaking bow tie, " he laughs.
needs to walking older women to their cars in an act of chivalry that hasn t been seen since the days of flappers and the Great
And so he began to develop his signature style: a bow tie and a short-sleeved shirt intended to reveal his tattoo sleeve.
Gatsby, Hodge knows how to treat a customer. Though he cuts, colors, styles and does pretty much
If I like a long sleeve shirt I will go home and cut the shirt and make them into short sleeves. I will always have a short
anything else that can be done in a salon seat, there is one
sleeve shirt on, he pauses for a moment. Now, I don t know
service Hodge wishes he had learned: the art of the no guard
what I m going to do during the winter. Each of his bow ties possesses its own personality and
razor. As a certified cosmetologist he has full access a head of hair, but only a barber can give a man a good, old-fashioned shave.
jovial charm. No matters what shirt or what pair of pants, a simple
And with 20 percent of his clientele being men, he believes there
switch of the bow tie completely changes the feel of each
would definitely be enough faces to keep that skill sharp.
ensemble. "My image is so important to me because that s what
"So in actuality if I had known all of this, because Austin s kind of going back to the whole barber shop type thing and its
brings clients in. I kind of command attention without
kind of trendy, I would've done that. Everything a cosmetologist
demanding attention. I go into a place and people look, and then
can do, they can do; they can do color, they can do haircuts. The
they stare, Ricky explains. I feel the more I wear my bow tie the
only thing different is that they can use a razor on a man s face. I
more confident I feel. The first couple of times I wore it I felt
think that s a lost art. So that to me would be something I would
completely awkward, but now I feel like if I don t wear it I m
love to do .
naked.
But even without the razor and the peppermint-striped
Hodge has gained recognition for his unique style and
barbershop decor, Hodge has managed to create a name for
benefited from it as a conversation starter in meeting
himself in the capital city. Anyone who dismisses cosmetologist
connections. Marques Harper, of the Austin American-Statesman,
as frivolous has never dissected Ricky's business strategies. He has
even featured Ricky s signature accessory in a piece titled A
successfully utilized business savvy to brand himself in a way that
Knotted Star. The tie functions as a quirky element that attracts
makes him impossible to mistake and has a charm to it that
attention and keeps it, especially the attention of higher end
attracts clientele to his black swiveled chair. And the bow tie is a
clientele. He claims that in order to attract these customers he
key ingredient.
has to dress the part, "If I go anywhere I m going to meet people
Hodge remembers first entering the stylist industry and
or anywhere in a social setting, I always wear a tie. That way they
wanting to be a "rock star" stylist, until he realized that had
can be like Oh yeah, the guy with the bow tie. That s the hair
already been done. Multiple times.
stylist. That s Ricky Hodge. That s who I m talking about. Beyond the tie, his style also focuses on juxtapositions.
His button-up shirts and bow ties are contrasted with
Â
I don t know why this is happening for me, and
tattoos. While his right arm is covered in ink, his left remains
I m not fighting it. I m just saying the doors open and I ll
purposefully bare. The first tattoo inked into his right arm was the
walk through them. Hodges muses about his career this
image of a hula girl. At the time he had no plans to expand the
far. So there s obviously something that I have that I m
initial image to the armful he is decorated with today, but the
very humbled about, because I don t really know what it
numbers grew as his career progressed. In true dedication, many
is. But the fact that everyone is loving it, I m loving it.
of his tattoos hold meanings related to his career and his fondness for hair. "When I do a blowout there s a part of my arm that you can see in the mirror and there s a 1500 on there, Hodge points out. That 1500 indicated how many hours it took me to legally cut hair. That was one of the numbers that I really tried to obtain. When I got to about 1400, I put the 1500 hours on my arm so it was kind of like a goal. Another tattoo he highlights is a vivid, multi-colored human heart on his forearm, pierced by a pair of cutting shears. "And that just is like the sheer love of my craft, he explains. In both personal style and styling hair, Hodge explains that he gains inspiration from the streets. And Kemestry places him in one of his favorite areas of Austin. While many may cringe at the thought of crossing Interstate 35, Hodge embraces the East Austin culture and the diversity of unexpected styles that inhabit the area. Whether it s the bow tie or the East Austin influence, whatever he s doing is working. Among others, two highlights of his success in the field so far include working with renown stylist
RICKY HODGE
Oribe and photographer Dan Winters in photo shoots. His advice to others? Look at the overall picture and help others in the field because as karma may have it, they might repay the favor. "You ve got to always look at the big picture. You can t always look at the immediate gratification, Hodge advises. I mean immediate gratification is freaking awesome, but the thing is in the long run you have to look at the consistency and for me immediate gratification one time is not a successful thing when you think you could have long-term clients. His success so far seems almost charmed. His seat is filled with new clients every day and his name is uttered from the lips of one happy customer to a new set of ears.
Â
Andie Salazar Photos by Chris Nguyen
STYLE ICON: DAPHNE GUINNESS Edited by Autumn Ashley
DAPHNE GUINNESS Daphne Guinness is a figure so immersed in the fashion industry it is impossible to address one without the other. With her skunk streaked hair and irrepressible ability to think outside the fashion box, there isn’t any reason anyone should want to separate the two. As she was growing up, Daphne toyed with the idea of pursuing a career as an opera singer. Her marriage to Niarchos, at the age of 19, ended those early aspirations. However, she currently plays much more multi-faceted and enviable roles in the fashion world than most can dream of. She has been a model, fashion editor and perfume designer for Comme des Garçons. Most notably, she serves as one of society’s most celebrated style icons. From metallic tin-man-inspired dresses and Dorothy heels, to vibrant, sunset-soaked orange, fuchsia and indigo kimonos, it is impossible for her to fade into the background. Guinness’ unique attire has gained her attention and respect from many designers and important industry players. Isabella Blow, fellow style icon and fashion director of the British magazine “Tatler”, was inspired by Guinness' attire at a party and hired her as contributing fashion editor at the publication. The two became good friends, and after Blow's death in 2007 Guinness bought her collection of clothing to prevent them from being auctioned off in a way she viewed as disrespectful to her friend's memory.
DAPHNE GUINNESS Guinness has also served as a muse for Alexander McQueen and was the first celebrity to wear his towering, ten-inch "armadillo" heels, appropriately dubbed so by their round-topped structure. (The shoes have also been compared to lobster claws, and look like an intimidating feat to stand in, let alone walk.) Her love for Haute Couture has led her to other outlandish “art pieces” such as gigantic platform stilettos, which lack an actual heel. Balancing on the balls of her feet in these heelless heels, Guinness has been seen rocking back and forth at parties, bobbing up and down. Beyond gigantic platform shoes, Guinness also has a penchant for armor-inspired pieces. She claims this love of couture came from the artistic influence on her early life. As the heir to the famous Guinness beer brewery, one would expect the extravagance in lifestyle that goes hand in hand with wealth. But Daphne unabashedly goes beyond mere extravagance to dabble in the fashion realm of the truly unique and often just plain weird, though stylishly so. It’s no wonder McQueen, as well as many others, have looked to Guinness for inspiration. ~ Andie Salazar
AN INTERVIEW WITH
BETSY BERRY
EDITED BY AUTUMN ASHLEY
M
any suspect the University of Texas at Austin to be an
unfashionable sea of sweats, sorority shorts and King sized t-shirts. However, it was not until a pair of Louboutin walked into the classroom, and stopped before a chalkboard, did I see true fashion. Betsy Berry is certainly not your average college professor. Her taste and style gives even the most fashionable student a run for their money. And I have yet to see her repeat a pair of high heels! Betsy Berry is not only stylish, but successful as well. In
2008, Berry was rewarded with the W.O.S. Sutherland Award for Teaching Excellence in Sophomore Literature and a Texas Blazers Faculty Excellence Award. Two of her short stories—“Family and Flood” and “Human Sexuality”–– can be found in Lone Star
Literature and Literary Austin). And her poetry has been published in U.S., Australian, and Canadian periodicals.
SPARK: What were you doing at our age?
SPARK: Who was your favorite designer at our age?
BERRY: What wasn’t I doing at your age? I was
BERRY: Knowing me, I suppose all the expensive
working on my BFA in Film, pursuing my interest
ones, those with endurance and longevity, like
in photography and developing my own pictures,
Chanel and Dior. Classics. No gaudy “Dallas”-type
trying to figure out life and enjoying being
stuff in designer clothes.
finished with a terribly snooty high school my parents had fetched up for me.
SPARK: What college did you attend? BERRY: SMU. Great film department. Loved being in Dallas and a Mustang. (Our high school mascot was the Mules. Swear.)
SPARK: What was your major? BERRY: Broadcast-Film, as I’ve said. I wanted to be a feature film director.
SPARK: Who's your favorite designer and why? Now? I couldn’t pick just one—especially in shoes, my passion! Here’s a few: Christian Louboutin, Miu Miu, Blanik, of course. I’m just getting ready to close a deal on some Guiseppe Zanotti calf-hair cheetah print stiletto heel mid-calf pointy toe cowboy-style boots guaranteed to make passersby gnash their teeth.
SPARK: When you were growing up what was your favorite trend?
BERRY: Good heavens. Bell bottoms? Crop tops? The usual young, hip look.
SPARK: What trends have you seen change in Austin? BERRY: Well, shopping, obviously. The Arboretum
SPARK: What trends are you looking forward to this fall? BERRY: Military green scarves, shoes, and jackets. And just winter clothes, period. Quality winter clothes look SO much better than summer
changed that, then the Domain. And there’s some great little boutiques now downtown, SoCo, the East side. What now needs to change is fewer chain restaurants and more quality ethnic food, especially in northwest Austin, where I live!
things—that’s why I wish we HAD a winter here! I was born in Puerto Rico, but I’m a boots, sweaters, cold-air-in-the-lungs girl.
SPARK: What are you wearing for Halloween? BERRY: Good heavens. Whatever I choose from my closet that day. How about dressing up like
SPARK: What's the best advice you can give a young person for their future? BERRY: Read. Live. Be curious, active. Follow Whitman’s lead in Song of Myself.
SPARK: What do you think about UT's fashion? BERRY: Not too much, I’m afraid. I’m sure I’ll be pelted with tomatoes for this one, but burnt orange is a hard color to pull off. I don’t see so much fashion there, but when I do, on a girl or guy, it always turns my head, and I often compliment them on it.
Coco Chanel might have done on Halloween— just plain classy?
SPARK: What was your favorite Halloween costume in college? BERRY: My favorite was a few years after college, when I worked at a place called Studebaker’s, where we danced on the bar. (No, not that kind of dancing.) I was a Blues Brother, with a fedora, briefcase and harmonica handcuffed to my wrist. Coat and tie, but tights and heels for the bottom half. P
d
BERRY: You mean hanging on racks in stores?
SPARK: What kind of wild crazy things did you guys do for Halloween when you were in college?
That’s the main place I see it. Going to a nice
BERRY: Oh, no. You’re never gonna get that
restaurant in the evening and seeing people in
kind of information from me.
SPARK: What do you think about Austin fashion?
shorts, flip flops, and ball caps there, in droves—it’s not my thing, to say the least. My dressing down is dressing up jeans—and I mean up: high heels, nice top, jacket, even a tie!
SPARK: Have you lived in Austin long? BERRY: Yes, ever since graduate school, here at UT. But who’s counting?
~ Autumn Ashley Managing Executive Editor
DESIGNER OF THE MONTH RICK OWENS
MUSE His wife Michele Lamy: Former stripper, restaurateur and owner of the sportswear company that first employed Owens. Awards
Memorable Collections His debut collection in New York for fall 2002 first hinted at Owens’ deconstructionist tendencies and careful technique. Featured draped and layered pieces, the designer shocked the fashion world with his mix of romantic and apocalyptic sensibilities. Other notable collections include: Spring 2005 collection - featured pops of color, redefining avant-garde. Spring 2009 collection “Strutter”featured nun-like headdresses in contrast to cutout jumpsuits and dresses and perplexing black material wrapped around the legs. It was with this collection, that Owens began to explore a more raw, almost primitive strain of fashion with unfussy, yet clean lines and monochrome palette. Fall 2010 collection: more angled, featuring edgy biker jackets and geometric layers in white and black.
The CFDA crowned Owens with the Perry Ellis Award for emerging talent in 2002. Thereafter his career exploded, taking him to Paris, where he currently resides. Sparkiness His designs are labeled as Goth. The studios that house his work, feature swirling billows of fog entrapped in glass panes in New York and a statue of the designer urinating in Paris.
EDUCATION Owens dropped out of a two year program at Parsons. ~Lisa Siva Edited By Autumn Ashley
CREDITS
Special Thanks to:
Wilhelmina Brown: Models Dog and Pony: Clothing
Dog & Pony: 2712 Guadalupe St Austin TX 78705.
Boudoir Queen: Clothing
Boudoir Queen: http://www.theboudoirqueen.com
Suede Salon: Hair Jeffery English: Make-up
Š2010 Student Fashion Cooperative