TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Our Staff 2. Letter from the Editor 3. Style Icon: Oh Land 4. Bare Bones 5. Trends: Menswear 6. Spectacle 7. Designer of the Month 8. Trends: Womenswear 9. Trends: Accessories 10. Trends: Jewelry 11. Trends: Beauty 12. Designer 13. Diya 14. Chiclets
OUR TEAM IAN MILAN Editor-in-Chief
LISA SIVA
Managing Executive Editor
CHRIS NGUYEN Head of Production
JOCELYN LO
Head of Public Relations
EDUARDO CAMACHO Design
Public Relations
Editorial
Production
Chelsea Dunivan Elizabeth Jones Jarie Maldonado Kristen Raines Esteban Riversa
Ronit Joselevitz Tyler Neal Jonathan Ochart Andie Salazar
Roberta Izquierdo Christine Lew Samantha McClendon
Letter from the Editor-In-Chief Just recently, I spent some time revisiting Spark’s previous issues and came to the realization that every month was a triumph, either for the magazine, a young designer, or some new business on the block that had everything to prove. Perhaps this has been a subconscious testament to our efforts here at Spark. We started as just a few students fighting to make a name for ourselves. Each month was a new challenge, a new adventure, and a fresh opportunity to share the fashion world on a local and international level with our readers. With great pride for my staff and grateful humility to our supporters, I would like to announce that this is my last issue for Spark. As such, my staff and I wanted to embody this progressive, daring spirit here at Spark with our “Be Bold!” issue. Featuring designer Iris Van Herpen’s show-stopping designs and taking a look at singer Oh Land’s unmistakable aesthetic, it is obvious that bold is always better. For further proof, we need to look no further than “Fashion, The Spectacle”, our list of the most theatrical fashion shows in history, highlighting the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Alexander McQueen. Of course, this issue wouldn’t be complete without our local talent, blogger Diya Liu and jewelry designer Kristin Bunyard, two women whose respective styles have become synonymous with their work. As my own personal farewell, my creative staff and I present “For Life,” an unapologetic “Chola” take on spring’s biggest trends. It is with a bittersweet mix of fulfillment and nostalgia that I bid my farewell. Two years ago this was all a crazy idea, a “What if we…” conversation piece. Since then my staff and I have been so blessed to work with and be supported by so many talented people. I have always believed that Spark could never have happened anywhere else in the world. Only in Austin can one find a community that is willing to give of their own time and resources to work with a magazine led by a few daring students. From the depths of my heart I would like to share my sincere gratitude to Ricky Hodge of Ricky Hodge Salon, Justin Brown of Wilhelmina Brown, the entire team at Propaganda Hair Group, and one of the most talented makeup artists I have ever known, Jeffrey English. Along with these names I would like to thank the many talented models we have been privileged to work with. Without your help, Spark would not be possible. To my staff, I would like to publicly thank you for your commitment and passionate effort at Spark. Let it be noted that every word, every title, every editorial, and every edited sentence is a product of hours upon hours of work created by a driven staff of students who do this for the love of their art. For this admirable feat I will be forever grateful. As I take my leave, I would like to thank all of the readers who have taken this journey with me, and I ask that you continue to support the next generation of Spark. With love and gratitude,
Ian Milan Editor-in-Chief
STYLE ICON
Oh Land by Lisa Siva
Oh Land has always been a performer on and off the stage. Born Nanna Øland Fabricius into a Danish family of artists, Oh Land developed a penchant for the fantastic early in life. “I called our home a farm or circus,” she laughs. “There were always the craziest people coming in and out because my mom was teaching opera or my dad was rehearsing with some musicians or my sister was making clothes.”
Her upbringing among performers and artists led Oh Land to first train formally in dance, studying at the prestigious Royal Danish and Royal Swedish Ballet schools. At the age of 18, however, a severe injury ended her career as a dancer and prompted Oh Land to discover music instead. Her albums, Fauna and Oh Land, feature songs that are almost theatrical, alternately playful and hauntingly beautiful. She has all the while become known for a whimsical fashion sense that matches her lush, fantastical sound.
A fearless fashionista, Oh Land can be found in everything from sequins to Native American headdresses and everything in between. She first caught the fashion industry’s eye when she performed atop the Standard Hotel in New York as the face of M Missoni’s music series in 2010. Oh Land pulled off the line’s unlikely caramel and burnt orange bat-winged tunic with panache, noting, “I feel really comfortable in it…like a big owl.” In fact, the singer often opts for flowy fabrics and A-line that offer her plenty of freedom and movement. In performance, Oh Land will dance and twirl and pirouette the length of the stage like a musical goddess, bestowing a hint of the sublime upon her audience—so an exquisite yet fluid dress is a must. The singer also has an eye for the unusual, often adding an extra dimension to her ensembles with a quirky accessory, such as the Native American headpiece she wore to serenade fashion’s finest at an Interview Magazine party this summer. Finally, the thing we love move about Oh Land is her refusal to see boundaries: a music video that could double as a video editorial for an indie fashion magazine?: Yes, please. A pantsuit covered in sequined spiders during daytime resort shows? Why not? Elle Style Director Kate Lanphear once said she admires Oh Land because she “love[s] anyone who wears sequins during the day.” But it’s not just about the sequins. It’s about femininity and daring, beauty and theatricality—and Oh Land strikes the perfect balance.
BARE BONES
An Interview with Kristin Bunyard by Ronit Joselevitz
Jewelry designer Kristin Bunyard creates pieces without a sense of limitation: no material or shape is too strange to draw inspiration from. For her Ossuaria collection, Bunyard uses bones and other materials like camera lenses to create daring, one-of-a-kind pieces. Kristin Bunyard offers Spark a look at her design process.
SPARK: When and where did you begin designing jewelry? KB: I began designing jewelry only a couple of years ago. I was living in Lubbock and working as a web designer, and I was frustrated with the lack of creativity that I experienced there. Though web design can occasionally be a creative field, it’s not tangible work. Everything you do is simply out in the ether. I needed an outlet in which I could get my hands dirty. I might have overextended myself in that respect... SPARK: What does Ossuaria mean? KB: An ossuary is a place where a large number of remains are stored after being disinterred from their original burial. It is often a place of reverence, reflection, and even celebration of those whose remains are housed there. Ossuaria means the same, only it is the Latin feminine version. SPARK: How did you choose the materials you use in your pieces? KB: I actually began making jewelry with camera parts and gears because I loved the steampunk movement, but I was soon bored with the work. The market is inundated with incredibly talented people who design steampunk jewelry, and I didn’t feel the need to further clog the internet with my own, even though I adore making that style of jewelry. I truly found my niche and my passion when I began working with bones. The use of bones came about rather innocently. I had an interest early in my adulthood in becoming a medical examiner. As such, I had seen more than my fair share of skulls and skeletons and always found them incredibly beautiful and delicate. To me, it seemed a logical choice to incorporate such an unusual beauty into my jewelry.
SPARK: What has been the biggest challenge working in the jewelry business in Austin? KB: I have been incredibly blessed since moving to Austin and have met many talented people who have spurred me on creatively. I do believe, though, that accessory designers are often thought of as the icing on the cake—and it’s the cake that drives the photo shoot, catwalk, or collaborative project. There have been times that my jewelry has been paired with items I don’t think represented my own edge very well. I’m still not sure how to navigate that situation, but I wish that accessory designers of all types were given a stronger voice. SPARK: Where does your inspiration come from? KB: My primary source of inspiration comes from the bones themselves. The natural shapes of the material are so beautiful and brilliantly designed—they simply scream to be shown, for once, outside the skin. It’s not uncommon for me to have absolutely nothing in mind, then spread a bunch of bones out on my workspace, and before I know it, the piece is essentially creating itself. I do occasionally look to modernist jewelry designers like Svetozar Radakovich, Art Smith, and Donald Wright for ideas about shapes, flow, and conflict. SPARK: What technicalities do you have to take into account while working with such fragile materials? KB: This is a major challenge for me. Bones themselves are often not as fragile as people might expect, but skulls are incredibly delicate and are often borderline unusable. I have to strengthen skulls with several coats of enamel and then a couple of coats of resin, which helps immensely. I’ve been able to use fragile bird skulls and sternums by using this method—however, nothing can make an actual bird skull usable as a ring. It’s a guarantee that it is a single-use piece. The beak will eventually catch on something, and no amount of resin coating is going to keep it from snapping off. SPARK: Will you be working with any new materials in the future? KB: I do not think that I will ever stop working with bones, though I would like to expand the different species of materials that I work with. I will certainly try different ways to present those creatures. However, bones will continue to be my medium for the long term.
SPARK: What has been your favorite part about making jewelry? KB: My favorite thing is that I can be having an otherwise uninteresting, uninspired day, and then I sit down in my workspace and create something truly exceptional. The paradox between the banal and the unique is almost as enjoyable as the final product. Plus, how many people can say that they spent their evening cleaning snakes and making their spines into adornments? I live a very unusual and blessed life. SPARK: Do you have any advice or tips for students who may want to make jewelry? KB: Believe in yourself, and don’t ever shy away from making others believe in you as well. There is not a single opportunity that I have been given as a designer that did not first begin with either making a phone call, sending an email, or standing in front of someone and saying, “No, really. You have to see what I’m doing. I’m about to blow your mind.” First, though, you have to do something that you feel that confident about. Personally, I did not feel that with the steampunk jewelry, so I ultimately had to let it go. Once I truly found the place I belonged and the medium in which I most excelled, there was no way I could not tell someone about what I do. I’m not confident in myself in all areas, but I’m a damn good bone harvester and jewelry maker. Find the same enthusiasm for yourself and make sure everyone you know shares it. You’ll be amazed at the places you’ll go.
MENSWEAR SPRING 2012
by Jonathan Ochart
PLEATS, PLEASE This spring, the pleated pant resurfaced—but this time with a modern, rather than grandfatherly aesthetic. Whether paired with suit jackets, sweaters or simple tees, pleats can add that extra kick to an otherwise plain pant.
- The pleated dress pant is a versatile choice for warm spring and summer days, like many of Dior Homme’s pieces. Dress it up with a crisp linen jacket or down with sweaters and simple tees. - For a casual, yet sophisticated air, Salvatore Ferragamo’s collection featured looser pleated pants in light fabrics. - Consider cuffing your pants, à la Dolce & Gabbana to achieve a more effortless look. Dior
Dolce & Gabbana
Salvatore Ferragamo
TECHNICOLOR DREAMBAG Color-blocking in women and men’s ensembles in past seasons inspired designers to incorporate the vibrant trend into men’s bags. - Bottega Veneta featured a handsome trio of totes in highlighter yellow and orange, white and a brink pink, an uplifting contrast to those solidcolored suits. - Burberry Prorsum chose warmer colors for its polychromatic bags. . - Vertically-striped bags, such as Roberto Cavalli’s dual-toned canvas weekenders, provide a safe yet stylish alternative to the color-blocking trend.
Bottega Veneta
Burberry Prorsum
Roberto Cavalli
THAT ‘70S LOOK For the bold fashionisto, a ‘70s flair can brighten up a spring ensemble. Designers offered contemporary twists on classic styles, perfect for the modern John Travolta or Robert Redford. - Alexander McQueen’s quiet floral embroideries in black and white suggest a subtle take on the flower power trend. - Flamboyant prints liven up spring’s traditional muted palettes. Take a cue form Givenchy’s rainforest-inspired leaf-and-fuchsia pattern. - Wide lapels, a major staple in ‘70s fashion, saw a resurgence on the Gucci runway. The trend offers the perfect balance against those florals and wild prints. Givenchy
Alexander McQueen
Prada
A FORMAL AFFAIR Stuffy tuxedos were banished from the spring runways. Instead, designers have bestowed upon the tuxedo jacket modern accents that strike a great balance between sporty and sophisticated. - Channel Balmain’s signature air of cool with a slim, fitted tuxedo jacket. A slightly longer length makes for an easy transition from casual wear to a relaxed evening out. - Simon Spurr featured a slim-fitting olive-colored tuxedo jacket with black trimmings along with leather sleeves. - Contemporary pieces like Ann Demeulmeester’s classic black jacket with a light sheen provides a structured, yet edgy look for those warm spring nights.
Balmain
Ann Demeulmeester
Simon Spurr
CHECKMATE Not to be confused with plaid, the checkerboard print is just as its name suggests. Designers added their signature take on the print by playing with the squares’ sizes and color palette. - Comme des Garcons added panache to the conventionally plain print by using medium-sized red and white squares in an asymmetrical leather jacket. - If you’re looking for a subtle check, look no further than Gucci. - The more daring fashionisto might opt for Louis Vuitton’s vivid red and blue check, which is sure to turn some heads this spring.
Comme des Garcons
Gucci
Louis Vuitton
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Alexander McQueen: Spring 1999
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Fendi: Spring 2008
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Louis Vuitton: Fall 2011
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Moncler Grenoble: Fall 2011
5 FASHION, THE SPECTACLE by Spark Writers
Chanel: Spring 2012
Fashion and drama have long gone hand in hand, and runway shows are no exception. Since the early twentieth century, designers have moved away from the quiet showings at their ateliers to full-blown, extravagant affairs. From runways on the Great Wall of China to spray-painting robots, here’s a rundown of some of the most spectacular productions over the course of fashion history.
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Alexander McQueen: Spring 1999
Who better to kick off the fashionable tradition of extravagance than Alexander McQueen? It was difficult to choose just one of his productions, but there’s one that we know will be unforgettable for generations to come. Picture this: Shalom Harlow elegantly enters a square, wooden stage, with a rotating center, which spins her around in circles as she poses effortlessly in a plain, white A-line dress. Before the audience knows it, two robotic arms ascend from the stage’s floor and mechanically spin around Harlow, who is alternately frightened and ecstatic. The arms begin to spray black and yellow paint onto the dress, which has become a living canvas. But McQueen never did anything just for show—underlying this gorgeous spectacle was a powerful message about the role of technology in the creation of art, about the intersection of nature and artifice.
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Fendi: Spring 2008 Known for putting on awe-inspiring events, Lagerfeld continually gives the set itself a chance to leave people’s mouths agape. In October 2007, he staged a show for Fendi on the Great Wall of China. If the location alone doesn’t make this event a spectacle for the record books, the show reportedly cost $10 million to produce and still holds claim to being one of the world’s longest catwalks at 88 meters. The 88 models sent down the catwalk were garbed in designs from Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection. The ubiquitous presence of the number eight over the course of the show takes its cues from Chinese culture, in which eight is the number of luck and prosperity. For Lagerfeld, it’s the number of unprecedented opulence.
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Louis Vuitton: Fall 2011 As Louis Vuitton has become synonymous with luxury, it isn’t surprising that Marc Jacobs pulled out all the stops for the fall 2011 show. The backdrop was made of intricate ironwork, whose reflection glistened on the shimmering black and silver checkerboard floor. Three unlikely models were the first to grace the catwalk—all elderly gentlemen, dressed in bellhop suits. A whirring sound interrupted the audience’s murmurs when an elevator car rose to the surface, depositing Aymeline Valade in a monogrammed bellhop hat and transparent skirt. Throughout the show, elevator cars continued to arrive, as models showcased a collection inspired by fetishes. Equal parts sexy and eerie, the show featured an elegant, yet haunting soundtrack by Phillip Glass, suggesting a film noir aesthetic. Kate Moss delivered the coup de théatre when she unexpectedly stepped out of an elevator wearing hot pants and smoking a cigarette with her impeccable air of cool.
Moncler Grenoble: Fall 2011
For Fall 2011, Moncler Grenoble took to New York’s Grand Central Station, forgoing the traditional runway in favor of a fashionable flash mob. With 373 participants, 200 of which were hired to serve as bystanders, models grooved to a track featuring music by Tchaikovsky, the O’Jays, Barbra Streisand, Prince, and even tap-dancing recordings. After a month of rehearsal, the models’ swaying, clapping, jumping and twirling challenged catwalk conventions. Designed by Etienne Russo, whose credits include Chanel’s iceberg-strewn Fall 2011 show, Grenoble’s production was truly groundbreaking. It marked one of the rare moments that engage ordinary passersby into a truly spectacular fashion moment. Because style isn’t just for the fashion elite in their ivory towers—it’s universal.
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Chanel: Spring 2012
Karl Lagerfeld is no stranger to Paris’ Grand Palais, but this season saw the iconic monument transformed into an underwater paradise. Full of stingrays and coral branches and sea creatures, the show was fifteen minutes of unparalleled theatricality. When the runway lit up, models began to emerge from a white arch covered with transparent bubbles and began to wander through the coral, clam, and shell sculptures peppering the runway. But since this is Karl Lagerfeld we’re talking about, there was still one more surprise in store: after about ten minutes, the music suddenly halted and a harp began to play. In a matter of seconds a massive oyster shell that had remained closed for the first half of the show slowly opened, revealing Florence Welch, dressed in gorgeous Chanel gown, inside. A sparkling performance of “What the Water Gave Me” made for a spectacular finish to Chanel’s underwater fantasy.
WOMENSWEAR SPRING 2012
by Hannah Kim and Andie Salazar
METALHEAD Florals and rosy color palettes typically dominate spring runways, but this season, metal accents and lustrous fabrics offer a fresh perspective on warm-weather dressing. - Adding a bit of sheen can bring life to an otherwise simple outfit, as Balenciaga demonstrated this season. Be sure to balance iridescent textiles with clean shapes and solid colors. - If anyone knows about metallic flourishes, it’s Balmain. This season saw a collection bursting with intricate gold embroidery and studs. Using tasteful gold embellishments is a great way to channel your inner rock star. - This season, Diesel Black Gold was all about reflection, both literally and figuratively. For those of us daring enough to try a head-to-toe metallic look, pair a shimmering, high-tech fabric with a bold, reflective print.
LOOKING BACKWARD Whether the 20s, 40s, or 50s, designers looked to the past for inspiration this season, breathing new life into old favorites. - We’re all for embracing your inner flapper. Take a cue from Marc Jacobs by incorporating one or two subtle elements, such as a dropped waist, fringe, or cloche hat, without looking like you’re in full costume. - Tame daring, busy patterns with the attentive tailoring of classic 1940s chic—fitted skirts and structured torsos, for example—as seen in Anna Sui’s collection. - Go retro with an A-line silhouette and a cheeky print or two. Prada playfully revived the 1950s housewife aesthetic with a full, pleated skirt, paired with a tailored blouse or a boxy jacket.
TRIBAL SAFARI Bold prints peppered the spring runways, and foremost among them were tribal patterns and hues. Vibrant and edgy rather than polished, the tribal trend took to the savannah and jungle for inspiration. - Michael Kors’ Afriluxe collection channeled South Africa. Kors nodded to the colonial legacy with khaki cargo shorts and trenches but did not shy away from daring animal prints. Keep a naturalistic color palette fresh with pops of yellow, orange and burgundy. - The brushstroke patterns seen at Donna Karan are a great way to incorporate a tribal aesthetic. For added drama, consider the collection’s spiked and feather necklaces or sharp cut-outs. - Hervé Léger by Max Azria gave the label’s trademark bandage dress an African-influenced update, evoking a tribal warrior. Garments featured geometric patterns, cut-outs and embellished straps and necklines.
Hervé Léger
Donna Karan
Michael Kors
UNDER THE SEA This season, designers turned to the ocean when composing their spring collections. From oceanic color-schemes to starfish prints and iridescent fabrics, designers proved that the sea isn’t just for Jules Verne and the Little Mermaid.
Armani
Chanel
- Was it the giant seashells or the coral decorations that gave Chanel’s oceanic theme away? Channel the iridescent beauty of the sea with blue and white hues, sheer fabrics, and glistening embellishments reminiscent of waves. - If you’re looking to experiment with new prints for spring, oceaninspired motifs like those at Versace are a refreshing choice. The collection featured white garments adorned with gold-studded seahorses, starfish and sea creatures. - Add an air of sophistication to the oceanic trend à la Armani. Opt for sheer fabrics and satins evoking a seashell’s creamy interior.
Versace
SOLO ACT Two sleeves aren’t always better than one. Ditching that overrated second sleeve, designers featured asymmetrical one-shouldered dresses and tops. - Draped fabrics, like those seen at Lanvin, are a great way to work the bold shoulder. Take a cue from Alber Elbaz with dresses in feminine hues and fabrics with plenty of movement. - Salvatore Ferragamo featured one-shouldered dresses in vivid silk fabrics pulled over the shoulder, resembling a scarf tied around the body. Several of the straps were twisted over the shoulder to give them definition and flair. - Go bold with the one-shouldered trend. Standouts at Carlos Miele included dresses that played on a Grecian combination of metallic gold and draping. Another full-length gown in an electric blue sported a braided decoration along the bodice that became the one shoulder strap.
Carlos Miele
Salvatore Ferragamo
Lanvin
SHAPE UP Color-blocking isn’t new to runways, but designers showcased new takes on the trend, channeling everything from casual athlete to urban warrior and everything in between. - At Alexander Wang, color-blocking added a level of chic to an otherwise sporty look. Mesh fabrics are an unusual hit with bold, primary colors. - Alberta Ferretti went surprisingly tribal this season, pairing bold, vibrant colors in geometric shapes. Be sure to balance out bright hues with more muted ones. - Balenciaga layered hefty, structured blocks of metallic colors into armor-like pieces, evoking an urban warrior. Alberta Ferretti
THE MONOCHROME SET It’s easy to see the drama of neon colors and flashy prints, but black and white can exude just as much panache. This season, several designers employed the monochrome hues in bold, head-turning ways.
Alexander Wang
- Gareth Pugh is the patron saint of black and white. Keep things fresh, rather than stiff, with modern, structural shapes. Square cut-outs and color blocking are a plus. - Try layering black and white garments for an added punch, as seen at Helmut Lang. The collection consisted of sheer fabrics, sharp cuts, and deconstructed draping. - At Altuzarra, we saw sporty and casual staples— windbreakers, plenty of mesh, comfy dresses—updated with a black and white flair. This simple black dress with a chic splash of white at the collar and waist is perfect for everyday wear.
Altuzarra
FEMME MODERNE In the spirit of the season, designers turned their focus on highlighting femininity with alternately sexy and whimsical twists.
- Fashionistas, the bando top is back. We saw the look everywhere, but Prada did it especially right. Balance a bando top with more conservative pieces, such as this boxy coat and lovely pleated skirt. - This is not your grandmother’s lace: at Dolce & Gabbana, lace made a resurgence as the sexy fabric du jour. Especially in darker hues, lace can be a great way to tackle the feminine trend without looking like a china doll. - Ruffles and rosy hues abounded on the Alexander McQueen runway, but the trend we’re most excited about is the return of peplum—it’s a tasteful way to accent the hips and perfect for cocktail dresses. Dolce & Gabbana
Alexander McQueen
Prada
ACCESSORIES TRENDS STRAPPED IN A sturdy clutch is every woman’s best friend, but this season saw the old favorite with a new twist: straps of every size and color. Strappy clutches are a great way to update your wardrobe for spring.
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Chloé
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Proenza Schouler
Valentino
1 We love the contrast between the bright orange clutch and stark, chain-link strap at Proenza Schouler. 2 Valentino showcased slim, ladylike clutches with a beaded strap to contrast the lush leather. 3 The clutches at Balenciaga were both drool-worthy and utilitarian. The wide, cream-colored strap not only offers a great contrast to a bright, busy outfit, but also ensures a firm grip.
4 At Chloé, an oversized leather strap adds an edge to a conventionally feminine accessory. by Lisa Siva
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GOOD FORM Whether box or bucket, shapely bags are here to stay. A structured bag can be an excellent counterpoint to an otherwise flowy, effortless look.
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Lanvin
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3 Prada
Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs
1 This box bag at Lanvin is the perfect accessory for an evening look, while the combination of mint and plum colors keeps the look modern.
2 Marc Jacobs kept the accessories ladylike at Louis Vuitton, reinventing the reptile skin bag in a charming pale yellow.
3 When shopping for a shapely bag, consider one with vibrant, primary colors, such as the one at Marc Jacobs, avoiding spring’s traditional pastels.
4 Prada’s sleek bag is reminiscent of an oversized wallet, offering a hint of masculinity to the feminine womenswear collection.
GO GRAPHIC Save your summery sandals for another day and opt for a dramatic black and white palette. Graphic prints aren’t just for womenswear anymore.
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Balenciaga
Bottega Veneta
Chanel
1 Bottega Veneta wisely injected a pop of citrusy orange into this strappy shoe. 2 There’s something wonderfully go-go girl about this Chanel ankle boot. The color scheme is clean and simple, but the bold pattern adds a kick.
3 Balenciaga doesn’t do anything without a little theatricality, and these shoes are not for the faint of heart. The combination of textures – the striped reptile skin and black leather keep the graphic look fresh.
LUCITE
1 Versace
Don’t get us wrong—we’re not advocating Lucite à la Taylor Momsen’s stripper heels. When done tastefully, a touch of acrylic glass can be a eye-catching surprise.
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Phillip Lim Dries Van Noten
1 Versace did not shy away from the drama of Lucite heels, which complemented gold-studded lavender straps.
2 If anyone knows how to pull off surprising materials with ladylike panache, it’s Phillip Lim, who paired his shoes with a tapered pant.
3 Dries Van Noten balanced the hint of goth in the shoe’s black ribbons with a playful Lucite heel.
JEWELRY
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BOLD MOVE Whether stacked, bold, or doubled-up, bracelets and bangles are more daring than ever this season. Leave your dainty pieces in the jewelry box in favor of statement-making bracelets.
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Balmain
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Roberto Cavalli
Versace
1 Balmain has always boasted a rocker aesthetic, and this spring is no exception. Don’t be afraid to double up on bold bangles, mixing widths and textures.
2 Take a cue from Versace when stacking bracelets on one arm: play with a variety of styles, from feminine bracelets to spike-studded cuffs.
3 You can’t go wrong with a strong, futuristic cuff, as seen on the Roberto Cavalli runway. This edgy accessory is perfect for toning down the femininity of spring florals.
by Lisa Siva
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PLAY BY EAR Fashion is no stranger to statement earrings, but this spring took them to a new level. Alternately playful and strong, a pair of dramatic earrings can add some flair to any ensemble.
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Dolce & Gabbana
Marni Oscar de la Renta
1 We don’t usually encourage florals for spring, unless they’re done the Dolce & Gabbana way — with
plenty of drama. These chandelier earrings pair blood-red enamel flowers with gold pendants, for just the right splash of color and luxury.
2 Oscar de la Renta offered a bright, almost tribal twist on the chandelier earring with these enamel pops of color.
3 Go retro with graphic earrings like the ones we saw at Marni. The stark contrast of red on black and
white evoke a delightfully sixties mod aesthetic.accessory is perfect for toning down the femininity of spring florals.
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PRIMAL SCREAM The tribal chic aesthetic we saw in womenswear translated into a raw, primal look in jewelry—an unexpected challenge to spring’s traditional femininity.
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Jean Paul Gaultier
Givenchy Missoni
Michael Kors
1 Missoni knows there’s nothing like a good, dramatic fringe to set you in the primal mood. This is a great look for strapless and low-cut dresses.
2 Erin Wasson rocks a statement necklace at Michael Kors. Spring is the perfect time to play with a variety of shapes and materials, including bone jewelry.
3 At Givenchy, this bold, shark tooth-shaped pendant offset the creamy silks and pastel palette. 4 This tough bangle at Jean Paul Gaultier adds a bit of edge to any ensemble. Recreate the look with pyrite jewelry.
BEAUTY GETTING CATTY This spring, makeup artists seemed to agree that a classic cat-eye should be in every woman’s beauty arsenal, whether lady-like or dramatic.
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Marni
Dolce & Gabbana Fendi
1 Pat McGrath channeled Sophia Loren at Dolce Gabbana, keeping the models fresh-faced with a light dusting of Dolce & Gabbana’s Luminous Cheek Colour but still sultry with an unmistakable cat-eye.
2 At Fendi, makeup artist Peter Phillips used Chanel Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner, extending the line
just beyond the lid before applying pieces of gold foil. When using a bold or sparkly shadow at home, opt for similarly dramatic eyeliner to define the eye.
3 If you’re feeling bold, Marni’s take on the cat-eye with colored eyeliner might be the look for you. The red and orange hues are playful and perfect for a night on the town, but be sure to keep the rest of your makeup simple.
by Lisa Siva
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TONAL Beauty products were made to multitask on spring runways, as the same shades graced lips, cheeks, and eyelids for a muted, fresh-faced effect.
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Diane von Furstenberg Alexander McQueen
1 The tonal look complemented Chloé’s signature clean, feminine aesthetic. Lucia Pieroni used warm
caramel and honey tones to highlight the upper cheekbones and the Cupid’s bow for a lit-from-within glow.
2 Makeup artist James Kaliardas at Diane von Furstenberg blended shades of MAC’s Cream Colour Base
to create a palette unique to each model’s skin. Cheeks and lids received a swipe of color just slightly darker than the models’s own skin tone for subtle definition.
3 Sarah Burton has brought a lighter, more feminine sensibility to Alexander McQueen, and it shows. Take a leaf out of Peter Philips’ book and pair a complex, detailed ensemble with a nude, matte look.
MAKE A SPLASH
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Nothing says spring like beach-worthy hair, and this season, stylists took the concept literally. Wet locks can be either sultry or playful and are more accessible than you might think.
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Bottega Veneta
Giambattista Valli Alexander Wang
1 The wet look was a bit more tame at Giambattista Valli, where stylist Orlando Pita used L’Oréal’s Fix Max Sculpting Gel, Gloss Shine, and Definition Wax to achieve a slick look at the crown, while leaving the ends dry. This youthful look is perfect paired with a light pink lip and just a touch of blush on the cheeks.
2 Alexander Wang took a rock and roll approach, pairing slick strands with metallic eyeshadow. The overall effect is the air of effortlessness central to Wang’s design philosophy.
3 At Bottega Veneta, sleek, wet hair was pulled back into a loose bun for a natural, yet elegant look to complement the collection’s luxury.
FRINGE BENEFITS
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Ladies, the bangs are back. Whether you’re feeling more Lily Allen or Audrey Hepburn, the classic look is here to stay.
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2 Marc Jacobs
John Galliano Hermes
1 We can’t get enough of the short bangs at John Galliano, undoubtedly channeling Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This look is perfect with hair pulled back into a ponytail or bun to fully showcase your bone structure.
2 The blunt bangs at Hermes make for a dramatic statement and put the spotlight on the eyes. 3 Redken Creative Consultant Guido gave models a lighter, more feminine look at Marc Jacobs with wispy, side-swept bangs to match the collection’s 50s vibe.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Designer of the Month
Spark Factor Simply put, Iris van Herpen redefines haute couture extravagance. The designer infuses each of her pieces with architectural elements that transform her collections into artistic masterpieces.
Legacy Born
As a former intern of Alexander McQueen, it’s no surprise that Iris van Herpen’s work channels the late designer’s penchant for the extraordinary and avantgarde. Eschewing the traditional runway show, van Herpen showcases her work at exhibitions around the globe. Her talents have been sought after by everyone from shoe brand United Nude to Bjork.
The futuristic designer was born in 1984 in Wamel, Netherlands.
Awards
Education Van Herpen graduated with a fashion design major from the Artez Institute of the Arts in Arnhem.
In 2010, the young designer took home the coveted Mercedes Benz Fashion Award. Less than 30 years old and a winner of countless Dutch Design Awards, van Herpen has been garnering recognition throughout the Netherlands and beyond since 2007.
Memorable Collection Iris Van Herpen’s peculiar names for each of her collections truly evoke their exotic structures. One of van Herpen’s recent collections, Escapism Couture, features a wide range of unique, voluminous pieces. Despite the minimalistic color palette, the pieces pop with bold, threedimensional geometric shapes for an unforgettable collection.
A Day in Her Stilettos An Interview with Diya Liu diyainherstilettos.com
Styled by Diya Liu Photos by Christine Lew Sunglasses by Tortoise & Blonde
When Diya Liu began blog could not have anticipated that opened up to her. Sinc Stilettos, Liu has produced Claire’s Front Row Challen Marie Claire, LOFT, and R gorgeous photo shoots. Liu attending law school in the never stops inspiring us wi Liu’s blog at diyainherstilet
SPARK: Who inspires yo DL: I get my inspirations f I love Taylor Tomasi Hill, Joanna Hillman. I also am combinations or silhouett
SPARK: How did you bec Marie Claire’s Front Row DL: University Fashion G about the contest and I ap honestly did not think I w seriously as a contestant si stated that my major was c
SPARK: What was your f experience producing a f campus? DL: I loved getting to wor in the Austin and New Yo and promoting Austin tale spotlight. I also loved the be in charge of every aspe promotion, runway stylin decisions, model casting, v much more.
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SPARK: What have been some of your most memorable moments working in the fashion industry? DL: I am pretty sure that’s coming up this summer. Thus far, I loved getting to visit the Marie Claire closet and seeing how the December shopping spread was put together. I also loved working with the leaders of the fashion industry as an equal instead of being treated like an intern. SPARK: What are you plans now? DL: Since I have already graduated, I am currently looking at studying Intellectual Property Law but I might still go to graduate school instead. I will also keep improving my blog and see what happens opportunity-wise from there. SPARK: What advice would you give to someone interested in entering the fashion industry? DL: Show up on time, stay late, and smile. Being reliable and professional is the key to breaking into any industry. Also, contacts are everything, so start interning in fields you would like to gravitate towards.
On Brady (Left): Floral Crop Top, Prototype Vintage. Gold Anchor Necklace, Feathers Boutique. Sherriee Earrings, Aztec Bangles, CoStar. On Lydia (Right): Empire Intimates Studded Bustier, Mickey Mouse Jeans, Dog & Pony. Red Hoops, Prototype Vintage.
On Nida: Chanel Black Top, Gold Anchor Necklace, Feathers Boutique. Sail boat skirt, Prototype Vintage.
On Brady: ‘90s Floral Crop Top, Feathers Boutique. Teardrop Gold Necklace, Prototype Vintage. Aztec Bangles, Sherrie Earrings, CoStar.
On Brady: Open-back Dress, Dog & Pony. Teardrop Gold Necklace, Brass Bangles, Prototype Vintage. Sherriee Earrings, CoStar. On Nida: Pink Paisley Bandana (worn as top), Moon and Stars Gold Belt, Prototype Vintage. Aztec Bangles, Earrings, CoStar. On Lydia: Pink Bandeau, Cotone. Gold Chain Belt (worn as necklace), Feathers Boutique. Red Hoop Earrings, Prototype Vintage. Silynna Belt, CoStar.
On Nida: White ‘90s Top, Feathers Boutique. Mickey Mouse Jeans, Dog & Pony. Gold Cross Necklace, Prototype Vintage.
On Lydia: Moon and Stars Gold Belt, Gold Hoops, Prototype Vintage. Black Crop Top, Cotone.
On Nida: Chanel Black Top, Gold Anchor Necklace, Gold Chain Belt (worn as necklace), Feathers Boutique. Sail boat skirt, Prototype Vintage. Aztec Bangle, CoStar.
CREDITS Special Thanks to: Style.com Ossuaria Irisvanherpen.com