TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Our Team 2. Letter from the Editor 3. Style Icon: Florence Welch 4. Making It 5. From Deutschland and Back 6. Dressing Up 7. Conversations 8. Photo Shoot: Harrison & Kaidon 9. Sophia Maldonado
Photo Credit: Solveig Selj
OUR TEAM LISA SIVA Editor
CHELSEA DUNIVAN Creative Director
CHRIS NGUYEN Head of Production
JOCELYN LO
Head of Public Relations
EDUARDO CAMACHO Design
Public Relations
Editorial
Production
Elizabeth Jones Jarie Maldonado Kristen Raines
Ronit Joselevitz Tyler Neal Jonathan Ochart Andie Salazar
Roberta Izquierdo Christine Lew Samantha McClendon Andie Salazar
Letter from the Editor “listen: there’s a hell of a good universe next door; let’s go.”
- e.e. cummings
This April marks our third Senior Design issue and two wonderful years of growth at Spark. What began as two loose spreads in 2010 has grown into something tremendous, powered by an incredible team and the support of Austin’s creative community. And though Spark’s co-founders, Ian Milan and Autumn Ashley, have left the university to tackle New York City, they have made an indelible mark on this magazine — I can’t thank them enough for their mentorship and guidance over the years. This issue’s theme is “Go Forth,” because while our senior designers prepare the culmination of their careers at the University of Texas, their collections — set to debut at “Contour,” on April 19 at the Frank Erwin Center — also mark the beginning of something new. As our seniors get ready to explore the wider world of fashion beyond UT, Spark looks forward and farther, as far as German street style in “From Deutschland and Back” and as close as UT alumni who have become marketing coordinators, models and designers in “Making It.” Take a trip to the Big Apple, as one of Spark’s stylists shares her experience behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week, and be sure to check out our photo shoots and “Conversations” with senior designers Kaidon Ho, Sophia Maldonado, Harrison Koiwai, Thee Phonthephasone, Samantha Kidd, and Katrina Raz. Ultimately, spring is a season of great change, and Spark is no exception. I have been delighted to see the magazine grow over the past two years, but I am equally thrilled to pass on the torch at the end of the semester to this issue’s talented Creative Director, Chelsea Dunivan. And as all of us move forward, whether we’re graduating, getting new jobs, or simply breathing new life into our spring wardrobes, I hope you join Spark in celebrating the exciting changes that make us who we are today. See you next fall! With love,
Lisa Siva Editor
Florence Welch Style Icon
by Ronit Joselevitz
W
hile many artists these days seem to have stylists at hand, there are certain singers today who still have their own spunk and continue to dress themselves. Florence Welch from Florence + the Machine may be featured throughout several editorials, but her own personal style shines through each photograph. Florence’s elegant approach on a bohemian style takes over her wardrobe. She’s featured in various fashion events around the world including the Chanel Spring 2012 fashion show where she emerged from a giant shell fully dressed in Chanel while still maintaining a bohemian-esque vibe. Her brightly colored auburn hair compliments each garment she sports, and she’s known to combine haute couture with quotidian clothes. There is a certain air of the Victorian era that exists in her apparel from high necklines to laced collars. Florence blends long and loose skirts with tight and sheer bodices—she plays with texture just as she plays with light pastels. As Florence increasingly appeals to a wider audience, she continues to intermix the casual with the elegant during her world tours.
MAKING IT by Lisa Siva and Andie Salazar
At the University of Texas, we’ve always said that what starts here changes the world. And it’s true. Alex King, Liz Wong, and Taylor McCausland are all recent UT alumni who are making names for themselves, whether at Abercrombie & Fitch headquarters in Ohio or in the heart of fashion itself, New York City. This issue, these three remarkable women share their experiences as a designer, marketing coordinator, and model, while they navigate the world of fashion.
ALEX KING Major at UT: Apparel Design Current Location: Columbus, OH Current Job: Associate Designer, Abercrombie & Fitch, Women’s Outerwear
Alex King walks the runway after showing her senior collection at UT.
Employed immediately after graduation? Currently working for a colossal clothing brand whose name can be found in nearly every mall in America? Alex King can put a big check mark next to both of the above. Even before scoring her position with Abercrombie and Fitch, King was doing big things while still a student at University of Texas, counting internships with Austin designer Linda Asaf, London-based label La Petite Salope, and Diane Von Furstenberg among her varied experiences. An art enthusiast and Alexander McQueen admirer, she was named Austin’s “Emerging Designer” for the 2009 Runway to Heaven charity fashion show and has continued to work her way up in the industry ever since.
SPARK: What is the best part about being a designer in the fashion industry? AK: Getting paid to do what you love. Ever since I was a teenager, I always wanted a job that required me to draw and use my creativity instead of something boring! SPARK: The hardest part? AK: The hours, the deadlines, the pressure, the stress, having to conform all of your own ideas into someone else’s, never having ultimate creative freedom. All sacrifices that I am glad to give up because this is my passion! SPARK: What is something that you have learned working in the industry that you did not realize before you graduated? AK: Adobe Illustrator is God. SPARK: Can you walk me through a regular day on the job? AK: There’s not really any regular day, it’s always different depending on what’s going on in the season or what deadlines we have. I start at 9 am and go until about 6 or 7 pm, and usually my day revolves around kind of a “to do list.” My merchants give me a list of things that need to be approved (trims we want to put on a jacket or color submits in the fabrics we’re using for the garment, etc.). We also usually have a fit session with our in house fit model. We can usually see a jacket three times before it goes into production, so each fit session is very important because we only get so many chances to get it right. We also develop fabric and washes for the fabrics. The company standards are very high—we’re always striving for clothes made out of super soft and high quality fabrics in very saturated colors. However, when you wash something it takes the color out. But you must wash things to make them soft, so it’s a constant challenge to try to find the perfect wash for every different type of fabric, while maintaining the saturated color that our customer loves.
SPARK: How would you describe your personal design aesthetic? AK: Personally, I’m more of an edgy designer. I like the rock ‘n’ roll look mixed with some femininity. However, my job requires me to design very preppy and classic pieces. It’s part of being in the industry: you have to be a chameleon and be able to give people what they want. SPARK: Who are some fashion figures (designers, models, editors, etc.) that you really admire? AK: Alexander McQueen (not Sarah Burton) will always be my designer idol. I also love Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney, Christophe Decarnin for Balmain, Peter Dundas for Pucci, Haider Ackermann, and Yigal Azrouel. SPARK: Do you have any advice for those interested in pursuing design as a career? AK: Don’t be afraid to put yourself out there. Be independent and go do what you want to do. Also, study fashion the way a nursing student would study biology or a finance major would study business. Read magazines, blogs, books — anything you can — about fashion, its history, and its future. Knowledge is always power. SPARK: What is the most important thing that you did before graduation that helped prepare you for your design career? AK: Interning (in another country and state) because experience builds the most skill, attending fashion week every season because of the people you meet, and learning Adobe Creative Suite because my whole life now revolves around it. SPARK: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? What is your ultimate goal/dream job (if not the one you already have!)? AK: New York, designing for a major fashion house. Then, I want to move back to Austin and start my own!
I also get to do the fun stuff such as catwalk research, building inspiration, and sketching and designing new styles for the season. Once we get our sketches done in Illustrator we must present them, then pass them to our Tech designers who make the patterns to send to our factories overseas. A few weeks later, the first fit comes in! Once we’ve gotten a whole line finished two or three fits later, we have to present it to the CEO and get his approval before we can send it through production. We usually work on 3 or 4 seasons at a time, because though we may be fitting a garment for spring, we’ll need to be sketching styles for Christmas at the same time. You have to be very good at multitasking and switching your mode from one thing to the other quickly. Everything is very fast paced and you have to keep up. Flashback: Alex King’s senior collection in Spark’s very first issue in 2010!
LIZ WONG Major at UT: Apparel Design / Plan II Honors Current Location: New York City Current Job: Marketing Coordinator at SMCP Group (Sandro, Maje, and Claudie Pierlot) When thinking of the future career of a graduating apparel design student, it might at first glance seem to be a very narrow professional path involving drawings of elaborate dresses day in and day out. Liz Wong is proof that not all fashion majors will spend their time dressing waiflike models, though, and that an apparel design degree might provide the foundation for more variety in occupation opportunities than first meets the eye. Wong has always had a keen interest in technology, and incorporated this into her senior collection as a designer. With her background in a creative field and interest in exploring technology, she now successfully works not with fabric samples and pattern pieces, but with ecommerce and marketing at some of Europe’s most celebrated brands.
SPARK: How did you end up where you are in your career today? LW: After graduation, I moved to NYC without a job and started applying for any and every job I could! I tried to apply for 5-10 jobs a day...most of the companies I emailed never even got back to me! SPARK: What is something that you have learned working in the industry that you did not realize before you graduated? LW: Everyone says it, but in New York, it’s all about who you know. Everything that goes on is based on relationships and connections!
and create art for our email blasts. We have a lot of meetings with potential advertising partners and brainstorm and plan for marketing events. SPARK: How would you describe your personal design aesthetic? LW: My design aesthetic is modern and clean. I like intellectual clothes — collections with a solid inspiration behind them and a sense of humor, like when designers play with exaggerated proportions or interesting prints.
SPARK: Who are some fashion figures that you really admire? SPARK: Can you walk me through a regular day on LW: Timo Weiland, the designer I interned for, is the job? incredibly inspiring. Each collection that he produces LW: No day on the job is the same! Our company is is better and better, and it’s so fun to watch the brand a very small team, so day to day you could be doing grow! I also always love what Dries van Noten does anything. Every day I monitor our ecommerce business with prints and cuts. Finally, even though they may not and make sure that the websites are running smoothly be my personal style, I really admire how designers like and looking good. I post to our social media channels Michael Kors and Kate Spade have turned themselves
into such huge lifestyle brands. There’s a lot to learn from what they’ve done. SPARK: Do you have any advice for those interested in pursuing a career in fashion? LW: Be as creative as possible and find your own aesthetic! Then, make as much work as possible, do a great internship, WORK HARD, and meet as many people as possible. And be nice! SPARK: What is the most important thing that you did before graduation that helped prepare you for your career? LW: Being a part of the annual fashion show as the President of UFG and as a senior designer were great preparation for the fashion world and for any job! It teaches so many things — creativity, time management, responsibility. And afterwards, you feel a huge sense of accomplishment! SPARK: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? LW: I love my job now, so I hope to continue on in the field of e-commerce. I’ve always been a techie at heart, so I love combining that with my love of fashion and retail. Someday, I hope to own my own business. Maje Spring/Summer 2010
Sandro Spring/Summer 2011
TAYLOR MCCAUSLAND
Photo Credit: Solveig Selj
Major at UT: Film Current Location: New York, NY Current Job: Model Upon graduating from UT, Taylor McCausland found herself torn between two choices: put her RadioTelevision-Film degree to use in Los Angeles or pursue a modeling career in New York. She chose the latter, diving into the fashion industry head-first. After completing two successful New York Fashion Week seasons, closing the Kimberly Ovitz’s Fall 2012 show, and modeling on Project Runway, McCausland looks forward to continuing her modeling career and one day returning to film. Despite her successes, this downto-earth model with foodie inclinations reminds us to stay grounded in a whirlwind industry. SPARK: How did you begin modeling? Was it something you always wanted to do? TM: My growth spurt was at age 13, but I didn’t start thinking about it until my awkward stage [and braces] left me around age 16. I did a little modeling in Texas through the end of high school and college, mainly as a hobby, but also for some extra money. I wanted to pursue it more, but school has always been the most important thing in my life. Then, last January, five months before I graduated, I had to make a decision: move to NYC for modeling or move to LA to continue what I studied in school, film. Both are great adventures that I want to have, but modeling is a bit more time sensitive, so here I am! SPARK: What do you enjoy most about working in fashion? TM: It’s actually not about the fashion for me. I’ve never been really good at it! I just love the idea of acting that comes with modeling. It’s exciting that I get to experience different emotions and personalities that I normally never would have! SPARK: What have been some for the highlights of your career thus far? TM: My favorite thing about modeling is runway. I’ve been in two NY Fashion Week seasons, and my biggest shows — like closing Kimberly Ovitz’s F/W 2012 show this past February — have definitely been the most exciting jobs for me. Nothing beats that kind of adrenaline.
SPARK: What is your dream job? TM: I’ve never been able to have just one. For now, I’d love to do well at modeling and travel through it. Next, I want to edit films, trailers, or music videos. Eventually, I want to do something awesome involving food, like opening a restaurant or a foodie bed & breakfast. SPARK: What do you love most about living in New York City? TM: My boyfriend called me Aladdin for saying this, but I mean it: every time you turn a corner, you’re in a new world. I live in India, ten blocks north is Korea, five blocks south is the UK, and a mile south are Italy and China, who now share a border. SPARK: If you weren’t a model, what would you be doing? TM: Probably eating a cheeseburger. SPARK: Favorite hangout in New York City? TM: My brain immediately went to a restaurant called FishTag on the Upper West Side, but a more general hangout place would be anywhere around Union Square, especially when they have the Farmers Market up and running. I love getting juice samples and buying goodies — like maple candies, honey, or freshly baked bread — for my boyfriend. SPARK: Three things you can’t live without during Fashion Week? TM: Sleep, oatmeal, and a boyfriend to rub your feet. SPARK: What was your biggest takeaway from your experience on Project Runway? TM: I studied film/television for three years, so the coolest part of being on the show was being able to see what is filmed and how it compares to what is ultimately shown on TV. Oh, and wearing glow-in-thedark makeup with a constellation dress and walking in the dark was awesome. SPARK: What advice would you give to aspiring models? TM: I’m still working on this myself, but you can’t let modeling be your life. The rejection and negativity can easily consume and change you. Keep up your other passions, make plans for the future, and remember that a tasty treat now and then won’t kill you.
From Deutschland and Back
By Jonathan Ochart
Although I attend the University of Texas, my parents continue working and residing in Heidelberg, Germany. I usually refer to my quasi-home as “Deutschland” whenever people ask me where I’m from, although the only German I can mutter is “Ich bin ein Berliner” or “schnitzel.” It’s sad, but true — however, appreciating the German sartorial aesthetic speaks volumes…without knowing a word of German. Each time I come “home” during winter and summer breaks, I’m struck by both the similarities and disparities between Austin and German street styles. Of course, an ocean and a few European countries standing in between makes a difference, but increasing cultural exchange has brought Austin and German fashion sensibilities closer than ever. When it comes to street wear, Germans favor looks offering simplicity, utility, and harmony: with harsh winters packed with snow and blistery winds, keeping warm is a must. Consequently, you’ll find locals in heavy coats and scarves to protect themselves from those harsh elements. Women tend to throw on furs, while men go for duffle coats and motorcycle jackets (pea coats, however, are common ground for both genders). Since wearing a coat can cover expressive shirts, ties, cardigans, and accessories, selecting the perfect scarf to accentuate the coat is crucial for showing off some personality. Wrapping scarves of various materials — from alpaca to cashmere to wool — around the neck in different ways keeps an outfit looking fresh yet composed. Lastly, finishing a look with a well-chosen shoe pulls everything together. Women usually slip on leather boots in rich brown hues or in slick black tones. Men also wear boots, Chelsea and combat boots being the most common. Opting for colorful, bright, and sometimes multicolored sneakers on those snow-free days pumps some pizazz on those gray, cumbersome cobblestone streets. Stores Germans frequent to purchase these items include S. Oliver, United Colors of Benetton and Esprit. Austin, on the other hand, experiences pretty mild winters and excruciatingly hot summers. Therefore, unlike Germans, Austinites rarely worry about braving through blizzards. Without daily freezing temperatures, locals
can approach their styles differently. Against a backdrop of warm breezes and blue skies, the bohemian trend is prominent. Loose-fitted tops, shorts, open-toed shoes and a myriad of accessories can be found in closets throughout the city. Donning fun, eclectic prints makes up for the inability to layer tops due to warm weather, while gladiator sandals, boat shoes, TOMS, and flats allow feet to breathe. Opting for bold jewelry contrasts light materials like cotton and other organic fabrics. Standout accessories boasting feathers, metals, chains, pendants, and beads complement these looks. Unlike Heidelberg, Germany, a diverse array of vintage stores pepper the city, offering citizens opportunities to mix and match extraordinary
artifacts of clothing. Austinites can thus further embellish their ensembles with eyecatching (and potentially gaudy) pieces, something Germans tend to shy away from. In fact, Germans tend to go for a safer, more composed and conservative style, while Austin residents embrace individuality and quirkiness. Nonetheless, with more American clothing stores opening in Europe, Americans are no longer the only ones purchasing from Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch, and American Apparel. After opening in nearby Frankfurt last fall, the “hipster� trend plaguing Austin (a style that influenced GQ magazine to place the Texan capital on its worst-dressed cities list) has spread overseas. Now, young
Germans walking down the haupstrasse, or main street downtown, bearing moccasins, thickrimmed glasses, Native American-inspired looks, and flannels, is no cause for sartorial alarm. But what really unites Heidelberg and Austin is their populations of young students (Heidelberg is the site of Germany’s oldest university). With fresher takes on fashion, both breeds of students approach their styles differently than older generations — say, the “keep Austin weird” hippy trend popular in Austin years before and Germany’s old culture of austerity. As youth, they present a rich mixture of looks evident in both regions: some students can be seen wearing simple khakis and a polo, others working ripped leggings, a sheer top and denim jackets paired with countless necklaces. And then the middle ground exists: with European stores like H&M and Zara finally opening throughout Texas, Austinites can relish edgier (and even vaguely Teutonic) styles like their European counterparts. Of course, neither Austin nor Heidelberg is likely to relinquish their distinctive fashion personalities any time soon: a city’s style is ultimately steeped in a city’s socioeconomic, political, and cultural identity — no matter what side of the Atlantic you’re on.
Dressing Up A Day in the Life of a NYFW Dresser
by Jarie Maldonado
6:45 am
A
fter dressing for many shows around the Austin area, I decided it was time I tackled a bigger city. And by bigger, I mean New York City—backstage at Lela Rose, a designer from Dallas, and Timo Weiland. It was a trip of a lifetime.
My day begins bright and early, as I have to be at the Lincoln Center at 8am sharp. After changing into my all-black attire and making sure my hair and make-up looked less intimidating than my wardrobe (you never know who you are going to run into in New York), I headed downstairs with the rest of my roommates to the corner Starbucks. There we get the usual lattes and frappes before realizing that it’s almost 7:40 am and we need to run to the subway. Staying on 103rd and Broadway has its perks, like a subway line with direct access to the Lincoln Center. The underground world doesn’t exactly smell like roses, but you can bet anything that you can get to your destination in minutes. We arrive at 66th Street and emerge from the station like a fashionable army, all in black: we are there to kick some serious butt, or at least dress like there is no tomorrow.
11:00 am The production team calls us out to the runway and gives us our first task: assemble the swag bags for the show. Deborah Lippman nail polishes, Stila eyeliners, and Bare Minerals face primer? Yes, please. It made me wish they had extra swag bags leftover. (They didn’t.) After setting up the bags neatly on each chair, I did my best Sasha Pivovarova walk on the covered runway. After coming to terms with the fact that my modeling career won’t be taking off any time soon, we head backstage where we are assigned a model to dress. The models are still in hair and makeup, which gives the dressers plenty of time to unzip dresses, unbutton buttons and make sure no loose threads would ruin the show. Soon, however, the models begin trickling in. I see Ajak Deng, so I introduce myself,—she’s a very sweet person and agrees to take a picture with me. My model comes in, and with some zipping, wriggling, and buttoning, I have her ready and in line by 11am. The show, of course, has yet to start. The number one rule of Fashion Week? Fashion shows never start on time.
11:30 am
Photo: Lela Rose
The show finally starts. From the television screen set up backstage, I watch the first model walk down the runway and she looks stunning. There’s no time to spend admiring the show, however, because in a blink of an eye my model is back, ready to be put into look #2. As a dresser, you can’t ever forget that it’s always a collaboration between the dresser and model to get the entire look complete. My model gets back in line and into model mode. Her final walk through goes smoothly, and when my model comes back, I give her a high-five and tell her she did great— everyone can use a confidence boost sometimes. She changes back into her clothes and I begin to put everything back into the garment bags. By the time I am finished with that I turn around to see the countless amount of people backstage. Lela Rose is swarmed with cameramen, interviewers, stylists, and celebrities. Without trying to sound rude, I excuse myself through the crowd and make it safe and sound outside.
12:00 pm Call time for Timo Weiland isn’t until 6:30 pm. The time in between shows is really the only time you get to do whatever your little heart desires, so we all decide that solid food sounds really good at the moment. After lunch, there are a lot of UT senior designers that need to go to the garment district before departing New York, so while they’re perusing fabric, my friend, Paloma Cisneros, and I decide to go to Ladurée. After we get our delicious macarons, we walk to Central Park. The weather is chilly, and after a mini-photo shoot, we head back to the hotel to pick up our phone chargers (Is it just me, or do batteries last longer everywhere but New York?).
5:00 pm
Photo: Timo Weiland
We get a quick charge and decide to go to Canal Street for some souvenirs, but we need to make our purchases fast. When you are traveling in New York, you quickly learn that your smart phone is your new best friend. Need to know how long it will take you to get from Central Park to Park Slope? Thank the fashion gods for Google Maps. We’re back at the Lincoln Center by 6 pm and stop at a nearby Starbucks for a pre-show pick-me-up. The people inside the Starbucks all look amazing, while I am still in all black. I sit next to an outlet and let my phone refuel.
6:30 pm
Photo: Timo Weiland
Call time. We are ready to get this show started, again. Beautiful clothes make a dresser’s job that much easier (unless you can’t be parted with that one, gorgeous necklace…), and the Timo Weiland collection definitely catches my eye. Model Charlotte Free opens the show—she is just this little ball of energy. Everything goes smoothly, save a little lint on the velvet pieces. Every model only has one look, but each dresser has at least two models. I spot Cole Mohr and muster the courage to go and speak with him. He is surprisingly approachable with a great sense of humor (take note, ladies!). We took a picture, which I’ll be adding to my pictures-with-models album. The show is a success (though still not on time). In dresser speak, this means no one fell and—most importantly—the clothes looked phenomenal. I am determined to get out of the tent without getting trampled over by the 5’10 women. I get back to my hotel room, pack my things and get ready for my flight in the morning. Texas, I’m coming home.
For a 15-minute show, the preparation behind it is jaw-dropping. Call time is usually three hours before the actual show, and that time is used to perfect every detail imaginable. My time in New York as a dresser reflects how hard I want to work when I finally have the opportunity to start my own career in fashion public relations. I know dressing is not something that is a career prospect, but it is definitely something that you have to experience. I guarantee that you’ll carry Fashion Week memories with you for life.
CONVERSATIONS with Thee Phonthephasone, Samantha Kidd, and Katrina Raz
by Tyler Neal, Ronit Joselevitz, and Jonathan Ochart
I
n every issue of SPARK, we strive to make the global world of fashion accessible to our readers. Whether it’s the haute couture ateliers of Paris or the most promising fashion photographers in New York, our task is to broaden the scope of this university’s sense of style. But this spring, we look a little closer to home at the burgeoning talent we have right here, in the Division of Textiles and Apparel. We caught up with Thee Phonthephasone, Samantha Kidd, and Katrina Raz, as they prepare to debut their senior collections this month.
Thee Phonthephasone
His swirly blonde hair and a distinct leather jacket make Stefant Phonthephasone (Thee) an unmistakable figure on the University of Texas’ campus. There is, however, more to Thee than meets the eye: his passion as a designer and dedication to his work as president of the University Fashion Group make him a force to be reckoned with. SPARK: What drew you to fashion? SP: I have always been interested in stepping into a creative industry. SPARK: Can you tell me a little bit more about your senior collection? SP: I am portraying a very strong and dark look with my collection. My collection incorporates elements of minimalism to achieve a maximalist feel. The looks play with lines both raw and defined. The garments are very fitted to the wearer but have a freeflowing feel; I want them to feel in control yet open to freedom. SPARK: Whom do you envision wearing your collection? SP: The types of individuals that my collection attracts are strong and sophisticated personalities that take pride in leading. SPARK: As the senior design show draws nearer, how are you balancing your own collection and duties as UFG President? SP: It is effortless to balance my deadlines and UFG duties because we tackle our objectives and meet goals as a team. My involvement with the show as President of University Fashion Group acts as a catalyst to my design process. SPARK: What was the inspiration behind this year’s theme, “Contour?” SP: This year’s theme, ‘Contour’, has a very unique meaning to me and the other seniors because we are not just contouring garments to fit the human body but we are “contouring” the designs and aesthetics to emit our own
creative visions and personalities that really represent who we are. SPARK: You’ve been to New York Fashion Week every season with UFG, and this year, you worked backstage on the Project Runway finale. What was that experience like? SP: It made me feel like I really belonged in the fashion industry and that I am already there. The experience working the Project Runway finale was worthwhile and showed how big of an impression that University Fashion Group was making at a national level. SPARK: You also participated in the UT at NYC program, which offers design students the opportunity to meet fashion industry professionals. What was that like? SP: The UT in NYC program went by like a dream. We visited so many inspirational professionals in New York’s fashion industry. I left the trip learning that I should always listen to my heart and what I’m passionate about. SPARK: Can you tell me some of your additional experiences in fashion beyond UFG? SP: I interned for Chromat and Rolando Santana in New York for a short period last summer. For Chromat, I helped the designer construct garments to be shipped on-time for orders. At Rolando Santana, I ran errands all across the garment district. Both internships really helped me get to know the New York fashion industry. SPARK: What are your plans after graduation? SP: I plan on stepping my feet into the New York fashion industry for a bit. SPARK: What is one piece of advice you would give to younger design students? SP: Don’t eat out too much, you’ll need that money for fabric. Get to know your classmates because they will be with you till the end.
Samantha Kidd At such a large state school, many people are not aware of the endeavors and laborious craftsmanship in which seniors majoring in fashion design undertake—meeting with panels of judges each week, editing their senior collection to perfection before the grand fashion show in the Spring. Design senior Samantha Kidd shares with Spark how her experiences in travels and work have influenced her senior collection and shaped her outlook as she soon leaves UT to pursue further undertakings. SPARK: How has being a Textiles and Apparel student at the University of Texas prepared you for your future career in fashion? SK: I wouldn’t trade going here for the past three years of my life for anything — I’m going to miss Austin. Although it is sometimes hard to be really into high fashion because it is Austin, everyone is so laid back and hippie. They could care less what you’re wearing. In any case, if you only went to Parson’s or FIT, you would only have a design degree and nothing to fall back on if design didn’t work out. Here, you at least least have a degree from a great university: if I didn’t pursue design, I feel I have such a well rounded background that I’m fully capable of doing other things. SPARK: You studied abroad at Parsons of Paris. Compared to the education you have received here, which would you say has had the biggest impact on your design aesthetic? SK: The thing I liked about Parsons is that I was able to take whatever I wanted to take for an entire semester — they offered classes like knitting and screen printing that UT doesn’t offer. I enjoyed being able to take advantage of that. SPARK: For your senior collection, where did you draw your inspiration? SK: Last year I had so many opportunities to travel — I went to India and South America over Christmas break — so that was the biggest stimulus, just going to all of these
foreign places and discovering new things. Consequently, I drew my inspiration from Indian and Argentinian architecture. They are totally different continents but they seem to kind of almost relate to each other. And they were just so different than anything I’ve seen before, so different than Western European and American architecture. I especially loved the mix of geometric and organic shapes, and I tried to draw that into my collection. I’m doing a lot of playing with different textures, so my last look had lace, leather, and silk. SPARK: What would you say is your favorite part about designing this collection? SK: What I love the most about being a designer is that you get to free range, and I love the fact that we just come into class and basically do whatever we want. It’s also a great feeling to have the concept in your head and then to see the final piece and showcase it –– you’re just so proud of the work you’ve done and everything that’s come together. SPARK: Who do you see wearing your collection? SK: I feel very much like the New York woman: there are separates that can be mixed and matched, and they can also be taken from day to night, so just a sophisticated ready- towear. SPARK: You have interned with designers such as Marc Jacobs, working in several areas of the label. Is that something you would like to continue upon graduating or do you want to go into actual design? SK: Absolutely. I want to pursue working for another designer just because I’m not quite sure what I want to do. There’s so many things that interest me in the fashion industry, and I haven’t quite figured out one thing. Still, I guess that’s also a plus because I can do so many things, and I feel like I’ll be very happy doing a range of tasks. For the time being, I don’t really want my own line. However, that could totally change ten years from now.
SPARK: What is your favorite piece that you will show in your senior collection? SK: I don’t know. You always have an idea in your head, and for the most part, it does turn out. But there are sometimes glitches or maybe personal aesthetics that I thought I liked on paper, but when I’m actually creating it I scrap and change. I’ll wait and see the final product. SPARK: Is there somewhere you worked or interned that has drastically changed your outlook in the fashion industry? SK: I would say actually just studying in Paris, because every single day, there was no lack of inspiration. I broke both my elbows in May, and though I would walk outside with two broken elbows, I couldn’t be unhappy: I was in Paris, and I would go to new museum exhibits every single week…and the women dress divine!
Katrina Raz 21-year-old Katrina Alexis Raz, a senior studying apparel design with a certificate in business foundations, enjoys innovative designing methods and splashes of color. After studying abroad for three weeks in Milan last summer, she’s learned to streamline her fashion illustrating skills while learning how to present her work to potential buyers. As the Senior Fashion Show nears, she continues laser-cutting and constructing pieces to complete her three signature looks. SPARK: First off, how would you describe your collection? KR: It’s organic, and definitely a Spring/ Summer collection. I wanted to use colors I felt would be popular and trendy in 2013. I wanted to use sheer fabrics, because it’s hot in the summers –– so this way, you feel cool. It’s called “Stay Calm and Carry on,” after the British World War II slogan, because it’s the kind of attitude I need to have while making clothes. I can’t get too worked up if something doesn’t work out or if I have disputes with anyone. You just need to stay determined and be on the right track. SPARK: What inspired your collection? KR: My inspiration was paper cut-outs, architecture from the Aria in Las Vegas, and overall, organic lines. Usually, I look toward things that are free-flowing and not so rigid and bound. For instance, in the architecture I looked at, there were columns with spirals going around and lines went everywhere. There were swirls that looked like water drops coming from the ceiling around the bars. SPARK: How’d you come across this building in Las Vegas? KR: We went to eat Thai food there around Christmas 2011. The Aria is one of the newest hotels on the strip, and I thought it was inspirational, so I took pictures of the different structures I saw. I think they were going for something modern.
SPARK: And what are some materials you’ve used? KR: So far, all of the materials I’ve used are silk — all cellulose-based materials — because I’m doing laser-cutting. I’m very interested in designing my own textiles, so I’m kind of making my own lace-type pattern. To use the laser-cutter, you have to use cellulose-based materials. SPARK: What other innovative approaches have you used? KR: I’m also making cut-outs of fabric to make structural garments. For instance, for my shorts, I’m going to laser-cut each piece, and they’re going to be an ambiguous blob where all the seams will be showing outwards so it will look like a three-dimensional structure. SPARK: Have any other trips or places you’ve visited, besides Las Vegas, inspired your creations? KR: I did go to Milan last summer, and although my collection isn’t based directly on that trip, I found it very inspiring. All the frescoes on the ceiling, and the gold in the churches, Baroque and Rococo architecture — it’s very inspiring because like flowers, they flourish everywhere. And the fact that they go everywhere and are not rigid really adheres to my sense of style and technique. SPARK: So where around the world can you see people wearing your collection? KR: Well, it would be pretty expensive, because it is custom-made laser-cutting — I’m not using low-quality materials. It’s probably geared toward someone more European, like in the Mediterranean area; with their climate I think it would be suitable. I suppose someone in Brazil or South America could wear it, but it has to be someone interested in the style.
SPARK: After finishing your education and once you graduate from UT, where do you hope to go? KR: I hope it’ll open many doors for me, and land me with a nice internship and job. I guess that’s everyone’s dream here, but I want to eventually own my own label. I know I’ll start out very humbly working for someone else and learning my mistakes there, but with this education, I’ll be set with the right skills and tools to enter the workforce. SPARK: Do you have a particular city you’d like to work in? KR: I suppose Milan and Hong Kong. In Milan, everywhere you walk is inspirational. The buildings, for example, are from the Old Century, so everything’s made to last. I like Hong Kong because it’s an exciting and an innovative place. They’re on the verge of an ever-growing society. I think the people there have more of a need to be artistic too. But, I think it’ll be New York for now.
Harrison
PHOTOGRAPHS
& Kaidon BY QUITNGUYEN
Design by Harrison Koiwai
Design by Kaidon Ho
Design by Kaidon Ho
SOPHIA MALDONADO QUIT NGUYEN
STYLED BY ROBERTA IZQUIERDO
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The University of Texas at Austin School of Human Ecology Division of Textiles and Apparel 8pm Fashion Show 6:30pm Fashion Alley Free Admission Frank Erwin Center
FASHION SHOW 4.19.12
CREDITS Special Thanks to: The Sartorialist Style.com Taylor McCausland Solveig Selj University of Texas at Austin Division of Textiles Study Abroad Photo of the Day Timo Weiland Website Maje Sandro