Yomi Adegoke
Meet the author behind this year's most talked-about novel
EDITOR
SUB
EDITORIAL
WRITERS
DESIGNER
Meet the author behind this year's most talked-about novel
EDITOR
SUB
EDITORIAL
WRITERS
DESIGNER
Founded by chemical engineer Yaw Okyere who formulated the products to treat his wife’s hyperpigmentation, Ava Estell has become the groundbreaking beauty brand made to support the needs of melanin skin. In less than three years the efficacious scrubs and creams have become viral must-haves amassing sales over £10 million.
We pride ourselves on always being transparent and authentic in our approach. Social media has helped us push that forward. Being able to show the customer that our products deliver on results, helps to build trust and assures our community that this is a product made with them in mind. The focus is on sharing real unedited results so that it can serve as a 'showroom' for what our products are able to do. So far, it has been instrumental in our success.
Ava Estell is not just a natural skincare brand but more a science and research-backed brand. We have looked at the skincare concerns that predominantly black people face and developed products using ingredients that
are science-backed but in its natural form. We wanted to create something that had 'melanin in mind' right from the outset (and not as an afterthought). We’ve utilised natural ingredients that our community know and trust. This way, we’re not just known as a natural skincare line, but as an expert brand that's efficient and produces products that actually work.
Natural oils are very important in skincare products because they are often packed with essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants that can nourish the skin, each with its unique composition and properties. They are gentle, compatible with the skin, and versatile for addressing specific concerns. Since we include essential oils
in our products, we ensure that what is used is proportionate to the carrier oils its being diluted in. Being a part of production from the beginning to the end ensures that everything is done the right way and with our consumer in mind.
Skin bleaching is not something we support. We understand some people resort to it because they may be frustrated with their skin concern or struggling in silence, and this is a 'quick fix' when in actual fact, it can have longterm effects. We do not want people to feel like they have to bleach their skin to feel confident. At Ava Estell, we want our products to help people feel confident in their natural skin tone and achieve a more even complexion naturally.
Hair Oil, £40
I’m a sucker for a quality hair oil but would I pay £40 for one in the midst of a cost-of-living crisis? To my surprise, yes. The thing is, Hairstory’s Hair Oil is a transformative elixir that balances the action of being intensely hydrating with a featherweight feel. Not a common trait in hair care products tailored to afro hair. I recommend using this on blow-dry days – the slip feels so luxurious.
Tubéreuse Impériale Fragrance, £175
This summer I had the privilege of meeting David Benedek the French designer and founder of BDK Parfums. Not only does he have an acute sense of smell – one bottle, for instance, is inspired by the leather seating of a taxi from a night out in Paris –he understands intuitively what women want. After sniffing 19 testers I landed on the gorgeous Tubéreuse Impériale, a delux hybrid of floral notes with warm woods such as sandalwood and cypress.
Carby Musk Candle, £80
Drake might be flaunting his latest collection of fan mania bras thrown at his It’s All A Blur tour, but it’s worth reminding folk the Canadian rapper has a candle collection. Carby Musk –dubbed ‘the Drake scent’ – apparently encapsulates Drake’s own signature smell. Its captivating fusion of cosy musk and warm vanilla notes creates an inviting ambiance. Each candle features a personalisation option in the form of a gold marker pen, which can be used to add your own message. #ThankMeLater
Triclone Skin Tech Foundation, £43.99
Lady Gaga has never shied away from her ongoing battle with fibromyalgia, a chronic disease causing widespread pain. That’s why with the launch of her foundation, the singer made a point to include fermented and bio-engineered ingredients with antiinflammatory benefits. This medium-coverage formula garnered 10 billion TikTok views on release and comes in 51 shades. Sold!
Olivia Twist is a name to watch in the world of art. The London illustrator and lecturer has a talent for translating the beauty of everyday life through bold and bright art pieces, made using the centuries-old printmaking technique of wood engraving. So far, her work has caught the attention of brands like ASOS and WePresent, and we anticipate more collaborations to come.
During a birthday trip to Mexico model and natural hair content creator Rusheen decided to take the plunge and do the big chop. Since then, she has not looked back and has documented her journey on Instagram. Follow for healthy hair and skincare tips and tutorials, plus backstage content from her shoots with textured haircare brands.
Venturing into gardening? Or want to find ways to create a zen home with plants? @blackgirlswithgardens is a safe space for novices and experts where tips, facts and inspiration are shared among those who are green-fingered. Find out everything you need to know about greenery, from how to keep a houseplant alive to the best black-owned plant shops on the high street and online.
You know those comedians that just get it right every time? The ones guaranteed to make you laugh so much, you cry? Hemah embodies this description to a tee. From funny relationship skits to relatable everyday scenarios, the London-based storyteller, presenter and comic racks up plenty of laughs and likes on her Instagram page in between outfit checks and travel snaps. Fancy a giggle while commuting to work? Her mini web series is a must-watch on YouTube, too!
Founded by mother-and-daughter duo Ade and Antonia, Okiki Skincare is dedicated to creating natural, handmade products that are also cruelty-free and vegan. Founded in 2016, the range includes homeware, candles, soaps, and lotions all made with high-quality ingredients. For each large candle sold, Okiki will donate £1 towards re-planting trees in Ghana. Paying homage to their Nigerian and Ghananian heritage, each product is reminiscent of recipes that have been used by their ancestors for generations.
While the use of AI art continues to spark ethical debates (namely whether or not it can really be called ‘art’), we cannot help but lose ourselves in the utopia-like worlds created by amazing artists utilising AI technology.
@curryhackett, for example, celebrates the joys and uniqueness of black culture through the lens of imagined futures. His is a world where parks are inspired by black hair combs and floating cookouts are the norm. Let your imagination run free with this wildly creative account.
Defy the odds with old-school twists and throwback quick weaves
An endearing term used to describe exuberant, sophisticated women who have a penchant for making throwback styles – including hair, beauty, fashion – fun, sexy and cool.
Far from Cruella-esque, Gemini hair takes its name from the twins of the zodiac. But while we might think of twins as being the two of the same, this star sign is most noted for its split personality trait – think ‘two sides of the same coin’. Thus, Gemini hair features two different colours framing the face, separated by a middle parting. While paying homage to your favourite Dalmatian-obsessed villain with a black-and-white colourway would fit the trend perfectly, you could also try pastel tones, bold hues or natural shades.
X-PRESSION
Ultra Braid
Pre-Stretched in colour T1B/60, £4.25
BABYTRESS 3-in-1 Edge Styler, £7.99
Colourplex Toning Drops, £9.99
We look to the catwalks and street style stars to find inspiration on what to wear this season. Here are the hottest trends to look out for@braidedbytee @bleachlondon @kehlani
In case you didn’t know, the ‘bixie’ fits somewhere between a pixie and a bob. Created for those who want a softer alternative to the daring lengths of a pixie, but who also want to escape bob territory, the bixie is the latest hybrid hairstyle to resurface from its 90s heyday. However, unlike its retro origins, where the bixie was seen almost exclusively on naturally straight and relaxed hair, today’s reprise sees this cut styled on a variety of textures, with an emphasis on soft, face-framing silhouettes.
NARS
Endless Nights
BAREMINERALS
Whether it’s a creamy latte or a rich espresso, make-up artists are taking inspiration from the nation’s second favourite beverage: coffee. Bronze, sepia and sienna should form your palette when dipping into this trend. The more vivid the pigment, the better. But don’t forget to highlight brow bones, inner eye corners and cupid bows with a lustrous gold or buttercream tone. After all, coffee goes better with cake!
UNDERGROUND
Perhaps the most wearable trend of the season is elevated normcore. This style of dressing encompasses pieces from the everyday wardrobe, but places quality and compatibility at its centre. While normcore might once have called for wellworn New Balance trainers and an old hoodie, the more refined evolution of the trend summons slouchy cashmere jumpers, crisp shirts, wide-leg trousers
structured outer wear.
Becoming a parent is a life-altering journey, brimming with excitement, joy, and a touch of uncertainty. Whether you’re expecting your first child, adding to your growing family or someone you know is embarking on this incredible adventure, being armed with the right knowledge and resources is essential. From emotional readiness to practical preparations, there are little steps parents-to-be can take to make the new start smoother.
When Beyoncé became a mum for the first time, she said: “It’s important that you don’t lose yourself and still have your own passions.” Amid the whirlwind of having a newborn, it’s not unusual for self-care to peter down the list.
Experiencing post-partum hair loss, sleepless nights and anxiety takes its toll, so taking care of yourselves is essential for you and your partner’s well-being and your ability to care for
your child. Whether it’s a quiet moment with a book – top recommendation
Fatherhood by Papa B – or a date night with candles and your favourite bath soak, make time for activities that rejuvenate you.
Remember, shared experiences will make parenthood much more fulfilling. Rituals like washing their hair and stimulating playtime are precious moments that can be cherished forever.
HAPPY HAIR DAYS
MYRTLE AND MAUDE Breastfeeding Gift Bundle,
FATHERHOOD BY PAPA B “A Game-changing Guide for Parents, Father Figures and Fathers-to-be”,
NEST
Whether it’s a sleek and straight look for a formal event or a wavy, textured vibe for a casual day out, the blunt bob can be tailored to suit any occasion. Bob babes have been experimenting with various styling techniques, hair colours and accessories to infuse their own unique flair into this classic cut. If you’re truly stuck for ideas, opt for a ready-made wig to access the look with ease.
Afro in colour 2. See page 23 for fashion credits
Hair: Yomi is wearing the Sensationnel Ultra Wig Jumbo
Yomi
following the release of her debut novel, The List.
Yomi Adegoke is no stranger to the online world, having spent the last decade of her career delivering thoughtful takes on race, feminism and pop culture to the digital sphere as an award-winning journalist. However, even the writer herself did not initially imagine her next step would be a foray into fiction with a focus on the real life issues dominating today’s virtual reality world, including cancel culture, wokism and mob rule.
What began as an idea for a long-form article turned into the hottest novel of the summer. The List, about a social media scandal surrounding fictional influencer couple Ola and Michael, is a thrilling page-turner leaving the reader hungry for the next morsel. Now, with five star reviews in her pocket and bestseller lists in sight, Yomi expands on her writing journey and her own experience within the online world.
CONGRATS ON YOUR DEBUT NOVEL! TELL US WHERE THE INSPIRATION FOR THIS NAIL-BITING STORY CAME FROM?
It was in 2017, during the height of the #MeToo movement, when women were holding individuals to account after men were allowed to escape accountability for so long. As a journalist and someone who studied law, I was working at Channel 4 where we had to follow Ofcom regulations and thoroughly fact check and use the word ‘allegedly’. It threw us into a fake news crisis. I thought, there’s something about the way that anonymity and movements can be weaponised, even when they have the greatest intentions. It made me feel a bit uncomfortable, how easy it was for things to go viral without any fact checking.
So I wanted to write a long read. I wanted it to be a nonfiction report with interviews, but it was quite fraught because we were in the midst of #MeToo movement, so I stepped away from that idea. Then lockdown hit and I had infinite time, so I thought I’d give it a shot and see what it would be like as fiction. I didn’t have any expectations for the story, because I genuinely wrote it to pass the time. I would never haved dreamt that it would reach the level that it is now.
The worst part was writing it. I had never written fiction before, so I was unsure of how to approach it. When I first started, I wrote 80,000 words in lockdown and I sent it to an agent. She read it and loved it, but said that we should cut out 50,000 words. That can do a lot to a writer’s self-esteem, but I totally understood where she was coming from. I was concerned about being taken seriously as a writer, so I was writing in a voice that wasn’t my own, and the agent picked up on that.
The best part of the process was when
I let loose and started to enjoy the experience. I always thought it was pretentious when people acted like the characters wrote themselves, and you (as the author) were just witness to their journey. But when I began to write, I found that these characters soon developed their own sense of self and I really got an idea of who they were as people.
to take shape in a meaningful way in society because of the internet.
WE’RE NOT IMMUNE TO GETTING SWEPT UP IN THE LATEST TWITTER DRAMA. IS THIS SOMETHING YOU’RE GUILTY OF TOO, OR DO YOU TRY TO AVOID IT?
I would be lying if I said it wasn’t something I’m still working on. Back in the day, I was similar to the people you’ll read about in The List. I’d see the mess, see the drama, and it would almost become a version of reality TV, which I watch a lot of being a columnist for The Guardian. You would watch the lives of real people fall apart, but it didn’t feel real. It’s an example of how we are encouraged to perform, whether that’s a performance of public life or virtue. That’s why I’ve been trying to temper my use of social media; I still watch things unfold, but I try to be less of an active participant.
AS SOMEONE WITH A BIG SOCIAL MEDIA FOLLOWING, HOW DO YOU STAY GROUNDED AND PRESENT IN AN INDUSTRY WHERE MANY PERCEIVE BEING ‘CHRONICALLY ONLINE’ AS THE NORM?
IN ONE STORYLINE YOU MANAGE TO EXPLORE MANY PREVALENT ISSUES FROM FEMINISM AND WOKISM TO HOMOPHOBIA, AND REAL LIFE VERSUS INFLUENCING. DO YOU THINK SOCIAL MEDIA HAS SHAPED THESE EXPERIENCES IN OUR LIVES TODAY? Absolutely. There are so many themes in the book, and I didn’t set out to look at all of them. These conversations have been happening since the beginning of time, but social media has made them mainstream. Not just the #MeToo movement, which brought the normalisation of sexual abuse to the fore, but Black Lives Matter, or issues pertaining to the LGBT+ community - there are lots of different conversations that have now been able
It’s all about my friends and my family. They remind me that there’s a real world. There’s a theory that you’re only supposed to know 150 people, but when organising the launch party for the book, and the guest list was 120, I felt like I needed to triple the guest list because I know a lot of people. I think a lot of us are in the same space because we know a lot more people than we would have between 10 to 30 years ago because of social media. My friends and family remind me that, while you are meant to know only a small number of people, there is a life offline and they remind me of what my priorities are.
Also, in the same way that people tell you to ignore negative comments online, I also try not to internalise positive comments, in the same way that I wouldn’t internalise a negative
“I WAS INTERESTED IN THE WAY WE, AT TIMES, DEMONISE WOMEN WHO ARE ATTACHED TO MEN WHO HAVE BEEN ACCUSED OF ABUSE”
review of an article or of the book. Doing that can lead to a very inflated sense of self and ego. Both negative and positive feedback should be taken with a pinch of salt. If not, it’s very easy to drown in your own thoughts and get carried away.
DOES THAT MEAN YOU’RE STAYING AWAY FROM THE GOODREADS REVIEWS?
Staying far away. I’ve been writing on the internet for over 10 years, and I stopped reading comments in 2014. Back then, I would read racist comments on my articles, and it affected me because I was in my early twenties. So I created a policy that I wasn’t going to read comments under articles. If someone wants to find me on Twitter or Instagram and say something to me directly, I know that it could still be a horrible comment, but at least there’s a bit more effort to it. It means that I haven’t brought it on myself, whereas if I’m going out of my way in an effort to seek comments, that’s different.
AS WELL AS BEING AN AUTHOR, YOU’RE A COLUMNIST FOR VOGUE AND THE GUARDIAN. WHERE DOES YOUR JOURNALISM CAREER FIT AMONG YOUR BUSY SCHEDULE, AND HOW DO YOU BALANCE IT ALL?
It’s harder now. Non-fiction writing will always be my first love. But, for example, with my column in The Guardian, I don’t even have the time to watch as much reality TV as I’d like anymore. I watched Love Island this year, but I missed the winter edition, and there has been so much that I’ve missed because I didn’t have time. It’s the same with my Vogue column. It used to be every week, then it was every fortnight, now it’s every month. This is a very busy period, but I know it won’t be like this consistently. I’ve had loads of ideas for long-form pieces - they’re evergreen, so I’ve put them in my notes and I’ll revisit them when I’ve got the time.
YOU WENT FOR THE BIG CHOP WITH YOUR HAIR IN 2019. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE PROS AND CONS OF HAVING SHORT HAIR ?
The pros are endless. I don’t wear
makeup on a day-to-day basis, so it takes me less than half an hour to get ready in the morning, and 25 minutes of that is me showering. Also, the feeling of washing your hair when you have very little of it is so lovely. It’s that kind of ASMR touch on the scalp. I feel like short hair inherently makes
signature look girl. I like to experiment.
WHAT PART DOES YOUR HAIR PLAY IN YOUR IDENTITY TODAY?
I’ve never been married to my hair. I’ve always been open to change. That is my identity; it has always been fluid. I’ve never really had a signature style in clothes or hair because I’ve always been a changeable person. I like to change how I dress myself. I’ve never really tied it to identity, except in the sense that, because it’s quite fluid and open to change, I know that’s how I am, so it’s always been an extension of that.
WITH SUCH A HECTIC SCHEDULE, WHAT ARE YOUR SKIN CARE ESSENTIALS?
me chicer, because while I have always dressed like I do now, when I cut my hair, people suddenly started telling me I was well-dressed. I love being bald. It’s so fabulous.
The con, for me specifically, is that I’ve always loved wigs. I was never known for having a signature hairstyle. I’d have braids, then dreads, then a wig. I used to switch it up so much. But now, because I’ve been bald for four years, I had been flirting with the idea of wigs again but all my friends have forbidden it. I want to grow my hair out and get dreadlocks. I’ve always wanted to experiment with my hair. I used to do it all the time, but now it’s so limited. At best, I can dye it. But it’s so short that it doesn’t really make that much of a difference. It has become such a signature look and I’m not really a
For my cleanser, I use the Dr. Barbara Sturm Cleanser, which is great for darker skin tones in particular. I have dark circles which have completely disappeared since using it. Secondly, I use the La RochePosay Effaclar Clarifying Lotion. Then I use the Master Serum by MIXSOON x UNA and The Eye Smoother by Mantle which is a CBD brand. After that, I use a Dr.Jart+ moisturiser and the Centella Sun Cream by MIXSOON, and a moisturising spray by Dr.Jart+ to finish. I swear by Dr.Jart+.
ONE OF THE PERKS OF YOUR JOB IS ATTENDING INDUSTRY EVENTS. WHAT’S THE PROCESS FOR GETTING THE RIGHT OUTFIT FOR THE OCCASION?
I’m a serial outfit repeater, apart from on the red carpet. I also like to plan a look, and I like to make a statement. Right now, I’ve got a gala coming up and I planned my outfit a month in advance. At last year’s gala, I really liked my dress - it was a Jessica Rabbitesque black evening dress with a boa - so I’ve been planning to top that, because I like wearing a statement look every time. The same goes for the launch of The List. I planned that outfit over a month beforehand. I’m always on Farfetch and Net-A-Porter looking for something iconic. I wouldn’t say my taste is anything other than maximalist;
I like statement pieces and prints. But that means I’m not the easiest person to shop for, as I can be quite unpredictable in terms of what I like. It’s a fun process though. I feel it’s a bit like doing cosplay.
WHAT ARE YOUR HABITS FOR SELF-CARE?
I’m not brilliant at self-care, but I do treat self-care like work. That doesn’t sound like self-care, but what I mean is that, if I need some time off, I’ll put it in my Google Calendar. I block it out, and it doesn’t matter what comes up in that period, I’m not going to do it. For me I need a minimum of two days off during the week. I will never have a week where I don’t have time off. I always schedule it in and treat it like a job. I make sure I have down time. Otherwise, if it’s not in my diary, then I’ll just see it as time that I could be working. I’m very strict about relaxing. I make sure I get rest by taking it seriously.
LIZ EARLE Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser, £20
DREEM DISTILLERY Bed Balm, £75
ATHLETIA Milky Oil Serum, £68
MORPHE Sunsetter Setting Spray SPF30, £18
CHARLOTTE TILBURY Flawless Primer, £40
GOT2B Glue Blasting Freeze Spray, £5.50
SOFN’FREE Gold Dust Shimmer Oil Moisturising Spray, £2.65
CLOUD 9 Braided Lace Wig Goddess Locs, £84.99
“THERE ARE LOTS OF DIFFERENT CONVERSATIONS THAT HAVE NOW BEEN ABLE TO TAKE SHAPE IN A MEANINGFUL WAY IN SOCIETY BECAUSE OF THE INTERNET”THE LIST by Yomi Adegoke, £14.99 PHARRELL-ISMS edited by Larry Warsh, £12.99
Struggling with breakage? Put your money in a bond – bond builder, that is! These strengthening formulas rebuild breakages along the width of the hair follicle, temporarily repairing disulphide bonds that are damaged through colour treatments, heat styling and relaxing. Consider these bond builders the A-grade of leave-in conditioners designed to prop up hydration and elasticity – every strand is kryptonite. Epres and Uberliss feature a simple spray-on formula ideal for braid care by lessening shedding. Olaplex, perhaps the most well-known of bond building brands, promises colour vibrancy with its weightless No.6 Bond Smoother.
OLAPLEX No.6 Bond Smoother, £28
MIELLE Organics
Rosemary Mint Growth Hair Oil,
AESOP Skin Sublime Replenishing Night Masque, £110
TRUE SKINCARE Certified Organic Rehydrating Rosehip & Rosemary Facial Oil,
Rosemary oil has been catapulted into the beauty spotlight and for good reason. The essential oil became Mielle Organics bestseller for months after a viral stint on TikTok. The Rosemary Mint Growth Hair Oil addresses a wide range of hair concerns, from promoting growth to preventing dry scalp. Other brands piling in on the ‘Rosemary gold’ action is True Skincare’s Certified Organic Rehydrating Rosehip & Rosemary Facial Oil, said to minimise the appearance of hyperpigmentation and fine lines. But if you want to wake up with a glow, Aesop’s Skin Sublime Replenishing Night Masque nourishes the epidermis overnight with the support of rosemary oil and vitamins B, C, E and F.
From the most up-to-date beauty innovations to the perfumes that will define your autumn, browse our latest must-haves!Photo credit: Hair Proud £10.99 £15.50 UBERLISS Bond Healing Leave-in Spray, £15.50 Bond Repair Treatment, £46
Skincare doesn’t stop postsummer. Skntone’s targeted skincare line offers products to address a full spectrum of concerns so you can care for your skin all year round. Each product contains a blend of natural ingredients such as shea butter, sweet almond oil and coca seed butter, designed to combat pesky problems like ingrown hairs around your bikini line or preventing strawberry legs. Favourites include Skntone’s highly rated Ingrown Remedy – which reduces ingrown hairs and minimises the appearances of razor bumps – as well as the Blemish Butter, which fades discolouration with its lightweight formula. Start your new skincare regime now, and revel in the amazing results next summer!
If perusing hair and make-up transformations are your guilty pleasure get ready for ‘Halloween SZN’. We’re living in an era where taking looks from the frightening to the fantastical - all for the ‘gram of course, is the done deal. So why not get in on the action? X-Pression Pre-Stretched Ultraviolet will take your fancy dress hair to the next level under the glow of UV light. Pair your bold look with 3INA’s The Color Mascara for fully pigmented coverage in just one swipe, then fix your make-up in place for up to 16 hours with MAC’s Ultra-Hydrating Fix+ Stay Over.
LNB Jewellery is no stranger to the red carpet, having become a firm celebrity favourite despite its infancy. Offering ultracool couture pieces, such as this daring nose cuff with metal fringing, the Dubaibased brand uses only top quality gemstones alongside 24 carat gold filling or Italian nano plating (a technique that creates unique colours on the surface of the metal) to bring its unconventional designs to life. With prices starting from €150, jewellery lovers can treat themselves to an edgy new piece without the guilt.
It doesn’t have to be a minefield… Spell’s got you!
Cancer is a battle that demands immense courage, resilience, and strength. For women facing this formidable foe, maintaining self-confidence can be a daily struggle. The physical and emotional toll of cancer treatments impacts selfesteem, but it’s crucial to remember that confidence is not something external; it resides within you. With the right mindset and strategies, you can boost your confidence and feel empowered throughout your cancer journey.
Raoul, one of the first wigmakers to offer wigs through the NHS in 1949, specialises in making, fitting, styling and repairing wigs for cancer patients. A Raoul wig is not only discreet and natural-looking, but also texture-inclusive, with the brand catering for curls, coils and kinks – and even protective styles. For afro-haired clientele who have lost their hair to cancer treatment or illness, this London salon is a must-visit.
This October sees the return of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and with it, ghd’s annual campaign supporting breast cancer charities worldwide. Pick up a limited edition collection of soft peach pink hair tools embossed with ‘Take Control Now’ and £10 from the sale of every product is donated to Breast Cancer Now. Philip Kingsley is also raising awareness with an unscented shampoo and conditioner pairing, originally created in 2006 for the use of the founder’s wife while she was undergoing cancer treatment. Every sale (made at any time of the year) sends 50p to the Look Good Feel Better charity. In addition, Jo Malone (who was diagnosed with breast cancer herself in 2003) will be donating £20 from the sale of every Peony & Blush Suede Cologne 100ml to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation throughout October 2023.
“Massages offer many mental and physical benefits, and cancer patients deserve to reap the rewards of a relaxing massage,” says Roberta Griffiths, spa director. If you have a type of cancer that has formed a solid tumour, it is recommended that when receiving a massage, you tell your therapist where it is so they can avoid it. “We recommend against deep tissue massages if you are experiencing or recovering from cancer. Massages that use ancient Chinese tuina movements offer an alternative to the constant kneading and pressing associated with general massages. It translates to “pinch and pull” and focuses on rebalancing your energy,” says Griffiths The notion behind tuina is that it releases tension to unlock your channels of qi (positive energy) and allow it to flow freely through your body.
Exclusive to Armathwaite Hall in the Lake District. Book a calming exfoliation, mediation and massage session, £135.
Wigs provided by the NHS only have so much mileage. Finding the right texture or colour has proven to be a minefield for women of all backgrounds. To find a winning wig, Spellbeauty.com houses premium human hair and synthetic brands offering superior comfort. Top of the list is the Outre Quick Weave, a versatile half wig kind to the hairline and adaptable for updos and full coverage. The featherlight mesh cap provides 24/7 ventilation, ideal for those receiving on-going treatment. For full creative control – from the budget to the base colour – The Feme Collection Full Lace Wig Cap will facilitate in building the wig of your dreams.
“Re-building doesn’t mean that it needs to look the same as it did before, the fact is that it just won’t... but the new body image that you find will be so much more powerful than it ever was.”
Cancer survivorand
founderof the
Black Women Rising, Leanne Pero
Growing up with coily 4c hair, I always felt as if I’d been cursed. Why did I have the hair of losers? Why did I have the hair that wasn’t glamorous? It was the hair of slaves, maids, and prostitutes. Every time I looked at TV, media or read a history book, anyone who had no power looked like me. It was so sad, the way I felt growing up, all based on the negative noise and toxic racism, which still exists in society today. The unspoken narrative was so clear. No one on red carpets looked like me, no knight in shining armour wanted to rescue girls with 4C coils - the whole narrative was so toxic, which is why I’m so glad things are changing, and I was determined to break this cycle when it came to my children.
“My mum put a chemical relaxer on my hair aged 8 and it wasn’t until 37 that I fell in love with my coils. I have my mixed heritage children to thank for the love affair with my hair. I had been completely estranged from my hair, my hair was always treated and viewed as if it was a problem and I remember being told my hair was bush, if there was any type of root growth showing I was told to rush to the hair stylist to get it fixed. I fixed my hair with chemically straightening, blow drying, heat damage, bonding, or weavesanything so I could look something other than my authentic self.”
“It
“When my mixed heritage twin daughters were born, they had very different hair to each other. Ola has 3A/3B curls and Adanna, has a tighter 4A/4B curl pattern. When they were three years old, it shocked me how the toxic noise of racism had already infected them when in 2015 they told me, ‘Mummy, it’s such a shame we can’t be princesses, we can only be maids because we have curly brown hair. To be a princess you must have straight, yellow hair.’ It was then I knew I had the break the cycle. I had to break the chain of the self-loathing that I had been brought up with so I wouldn’t pass it onto my girls. It was then that I decided I needed to learn how to nourish and really care for their hair. This was something I never grew up with as there wasn’t much information. I went to some of the best hair salons in London, but how to care and love my natural hair was something that, even as a professional beauty journalist, was still a bit of a mystery to me. I was so lucky that this was the start of the #TeamNatural hair revolution and the explosion and birth of social media. A new cohort of websites, bloggers and influencers starting to talk about natural hair, which was so healing for my soul.”
“Step one, for me, was all about products and techniques. It was about how can I give my children’s hair everything that will help it flourish that’s not based on a style that society thinks looks neat, prim, and proper but gives the nourishment the curls need to thrive. It was as basic as hydration, hydration, and more hydration. I had to relearn that water was not the enemy. I spent so many years avoiding water like a cat because it would reverse hours of heat styling, blow drying, tonging, silk presses but getting water and locking it in the hair with a great moisturising conditioner was so key for loving curls.
“I went about finding as much information online and looking at women doing their hair in Atlanta online in their bathrooms, talking about their home-made whipped shea butter, it was a golden time. I really felt that there was a broken circle
Clockwise from top left: TREPADORA
Goji Mint Reviving Hair Rinse, £24; AVEDA Botanical Repair Intensive Strengthening Masque, £48; BOUCLÈME Curl Towel, £25; SLIP Pink Queen Envelope Pillowcase, £89; CHARLOTTE MENSAH Paddle Brush, £24
healed through learning how to love my children’s hair. During the process I fell in love with my own hair and I thought, ‘what’s so wrong about me? What’s so wrong about my 4c coils?’, so I decided to be a better example to my children, and I stopped chemically relaxing my hair. I did this in baby steps by getting box braids with the fantastic Aisha Ibrahim (Feme brand ambassador), who is an expert braider and part of the Spell Magazine family. And then I slowly transitioned my hair into a TWA (teeny weeny afro).”
“When it comes to learning what your hair loves, it’s such a personal journey and it’s about your individual curl pattern. Each person and each head of hair could have anywhere from three, four, five or more different curl patterns so it’s learning about what your hair loves and what it needs. Sometimes you could have a tighter curl pattern in the nape of your neck compared to the front and it’s just learning and being really bespoke and prescriptive about your curls. When it came to Ola and Adanna’s curls, I had to throw away
everything I knew and start from fresh. I had to think in a very prescriptive, bespoke way for each of their individual hair types and curl patterns, so it was so important to use shampoos and conditioners which were sulphate free, petroleum free, with ingredients that didn’t strip the hair.”
“I think the biggest thing that I learned when teaching myself to care for their hair was having to get rid of all my demons and the negative noise that I grew up with about being less than. I don’t blame my mum or the older generation who were all spoon fed on empire, which taught them that they were less than because of their melanin and curl pattern, but it’s about deprogramming and getting rid of that negative noise and recognising that your hair, curls, and coils are professional, luxurious, aspirational, central and everything in between. As a mother you will do anything for your kids and me wanting to deprogram and help them love themselves was a major motivation and I thank them because they helped me fall in love with my hair too.”
It’s the latest protective style to sweep the internet, and to say we’re little obsessed with this one is an understatement. These fiercely ontrend locs not only look authentic but are commitment-free.
Arguably from afar they look like traditional locs and on closer inspection they could pass for Senegalese or Marley twists. So, what sets them apart? “The unique feature to invisible locs are the bulky knot ends,” explains Anastasia Chikezie, Purely Natural salon owner. “From a far it looks like typical locs but when you get closer it resembles Senegalese or Marley twists. It’s the type of hairstyle we like to call the best of both worlds.”
While faux locs and invisible locs are both protective hairstyles inspired by the look of real locs, there are some key differences. “Faux locs are usually installed by braiding down the natural hair – this can be single or box braids – and taking synthetic hair and wrapping it firmly around plait. This base provides stability and structure for the extensions,” explains Chikezie. Invisible locs are a variation in the faux loc family, and as the name suggests, appear more discreet at the root. “The goal of invisible locs is to mimic the appearance of naturally formed and matured dreadlocks, which tend to be thinner and less uniform – hence the bumpy effect,” says Chikezie.
you’ll want to be seen in them
Ultimately bulk hair gives you control on the desired finish and the colour ratio you want your locs to have. It can have a weighty feel, so do be mindful when installing.
Pre-looped locs can be installed using the tried and trusted crochet method. It’s super quick but the cost per pack can make it more expensive.
URBAN Water Wave in length 18 inches, £4.49
SENSATIONNEL
Soft n’ Silky Afro Twist Braid in length 20 inches, £5.99
AFRICAN COLLECTION
Jamaican Locks in length 44 inches, £6.99
Yes, invisible locs require maintenance so pay attention to keeping the base clean and freshly groomed. Use a selection of stylers to nourish and add a sleek shine.
X-PRESSION
Wavy Faux Locs in length 16, £4.29
URBAN River Locs in length 18, £9.99
AFRICAN COLLECTION
Soft Faux Locs in length 14, £4.99
NOUGHTY Strands Away Flyaway Wand, £11.99
DESIGN ESSENTIALS
Natural Honey & Shea Edge Tamer, £10.99
MA BROWN’S Traditional Itchy Scalp Spray, £6.89
With the overload of skincare consumption, skincare ingredients have become a little confusing, especially when they’re spelt similar but are different. Enter Squalane vs Squalene, both appearing on multiple hair and skincare products, we ask the experts what is the difference? And which is better for the hair and skin?
“Squalane is a naturally occurring hydrocarbon derived from the organic compound squalene. It is an extremely versatile ingredient that has gained increasing popularity in the skincare industry due to its unique chemical properties and versatility.
“Squalane’s exceptional skin compatibility, moisturising and emollient properties have made it a sought-after ingredient in the cosmetics industry. Its ability to effectively hydrate and improve skin elasticity coupled with it being noncomedogenic has led to its use in a vast array of skin care products, including moisturisers, serums, and anti-aging formulations.
“Traditionally, squalane was primarily sourced from shark liver oil; however, due to ethical and sustainability, alternative extraction methods have been employed. Today, the majority of squalane is sourced from plant derived oils using advanced extraction techniques.”
“Squalane and squalene are both natural organic compounds that are derived from the same source, but they differ in terms of their structure and properties. Squalene is the compound naturally found in certain oils and one of the predominant components of sebum of our skin. Squalane is the hydrogenated and most stable squalene that is commonly used in skin care and cosmetics products for its moisturising and skin conditioning properties.”
agent. It has excellent skin penetrating abilities which help to maintain skin hydration and prevent moisture loss. Squalene is frequently included in moisturising creams, lotions, and serums to enhance hydration and improve the skin’s elasticity. It can also be found in facial oils combined with other oils such as argan oil and jojoba to nourish and soften the skin.
“You can find squalane in moisturisers, serums, facial oils, cleansers, lip products, and hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair serums. It’s also often included in cleansers and anti-ageing products, as well as lip balms and sun protection products to provide additional hydration and improve the product’s texture.”
They also have natural antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress. Free radicals can lead to premature ageing, skin damage, and inflammation. By neutralizing free radicals, squalane/ squalene help reduce the signs of aging and promote healthier-looking skin.
“Because they have a small molecular size, the ingredients can penetrate deep into the skin. This enables them to be effective carriers for other ingredients and deliver superb results.
“Additionally, they can promote skin cell regeneration and renewal by maintaining the skin’s barrier function, supporting the skin’s natural exfoliation process and improving the overall texture of the skin. It is also noncomedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores, and it has a lightweight, nongreasy texture that makes it suitable for a wide range of skin types.
“You can find squalane and squalene in a whole host of skincare and cosmetics products.
“Squalene is often used as an emollient, moisturising/hydrating,
“Squalane and squalene are both excellent emollients that help to hydrate and moisturise the skin and restore the skin barrier, preventing trans epidermal water loss and keeping the skin soft, smooth, and supple.
“Finally, they have also been found to aid the wound healing process and promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation, and improve the appearance of scars.”
SKIN PROUD Proud Pods , £14.95; SUPERFOODLX Hair Illuminism Hair Balm , £18; LOTTIE LONDON Cheeky Glow
Wands, £7.95; CIATÉ LONDON Dewy Gloss
Tinted Lip Jelly, £18; PRIMARK PS Skin 1% Bakuchoil Serum, £5
“Afro hair has a distinctive structure that makes it prone to dryness and frizz. Squalane’s molecular structure closely resembles the skin’s natural sebum, making it an excellent emollient that locks in moisture. When applied to Afro hair, squalane forms a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss, leaving the hair softer, smoother, and more manageable. This enhanced hydration not only improves the hair’s appearance but also supports overall hair health.
“One of the unique challenges of afro and textured hair care is finding products that provide sufficient moisture without weighing down the hair. Squalane is a lightweight oil that penetrates the hair shaft without causing build-up or heaviness. This characteristic is especially beneficial for afro hair, which tends to be denser and more delicate. By delivering nutrients directly to the hair’s core, squalane ensures that every strand receives the nourishment it needs.”
Jacqui McIntosh, Avlon UK European Education DirectorWHAT SKIN AND HAIR TYPE IS THE INGREDIENT SUITABLE FOR?
“Squalene and squalane are both generally very well tolerated by most skin types, making them a versatile and universally beneficial ingredient. However, as they are excellent moisturisers and emollients, they are particularly appropriate for those who have dry, dehydrated, ageing or sensitive skin.
“Squalane and squalene also have anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe and calm the skin. They help reduce redness, irritation, and sensitivity, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.”
DijaIn celebration of Black History Month, we highlight women-owned businesses repping the UK
As an island nation, our homegrown businesses both fuel our economy and fire up our pride. In 2023, small, women-owned, black-owned businesses are thriving, setting the bar for what can be achieved in the face of adversity, and encouraging others to put their own skills and ideas to the test.
With the world of business becoming more accessible for individuals from minority backgrounds, we’re seeing versatility skyrocket. This means that, while the likes of traditional sapos, homemade black soaps and shea butters are here to stay, the market is also expanding into more high-end and luxury brands.
On the 26th anniversary of Black History Month in the UK, we are continuing to celebrate and elevate black-owned businesses and the women behind them, highlighting those that are making an impact in the luxury hair and beauty space. It’s time to get our hustle on, UK style!
While the premium skincare market may be difficult to break into, that hasn’t put off Besa Musama, whose African-inspired natural skincare brand Kutemwa Skin has already earned itself a cult social media following
and pop-ups at the likes of Westfield and Waitrose stores across the country. Speaking to Spell Magazine, Musama said: “I noticed that the skin concerns of women of colour have been overlooked in the beauty industry within the UK. So, it became my goal to build a product range that focuses on providing skincare solutions for women of colour.”
Another brand carving a space for themselves in the industry is Ashe London, makers of luxury vegan nail polish. With a small design team, Ashe London releases limited colour collections (all vegan formulas) throughout the year to keep costs manageable. Not one to rest on her laurels, founder Ashleigh Alli is also a diversity consultant, working to increase inclusion and diversity within the legal profession.
In answer to the frustrating process of finding the right product combination to care for textured hair, founders Rachel Marcelin, Samantha Stewart MIT and Jasmine Kerley created CURLiD. The brand aims to educate consumers about hair health and maintenance, and their easy-to-use, trichologist-approved Hair Analysis Kit is a testament to this goal.
Another heavy hitter in the UK haircare sector is Rosemary Madagwa, inventor of the microwaveable hair cap, the Lava Cap. Think of it as modernised, stylish version of a heat cap. Designed to deep condition hair with the power of heat, the Lava Cap is an effective and convenient 20-minute solution to restore dry or damaged hair.
Not content with a few extra hues added to make-up lines? Seek out black-owned establishments such as Nails & Brows Mayfair, the first luxury concept nail and brow beauty boutique in London. Beyond the glossy interior and royal clientele are highly qualified technicians ready to pamper.
If you want to spend coins on your hair, Healthy Hair Studio is a London-based trichology service run by Enitan, an accredited trichologist specialising in black hair. Her expertise is especially pertinent for those looking to improve hair health and increase length - you only need to see Enitan’s waist-length afro hair for evidence of her mastery!
Enrich playtime for little ones with diverse reading and relatable games. Here are our top picks
“My journey to becoming a celebrity make-up artist is quite interesting. I've always had a deep passion and love for makeup and how it can transform how people look and feel. My journey resulted from being extremely consistent, never taking no for an answer, and standing up for what I believe in when it comes to beauty, all while utilising my social media platform.
Collaborating with Haus Labs feels surreal to me, as I've always been a massive fan of Lady Gaga. Working with the brand and their beautiful make-up means the world to me."
“I think men's attitudes toward grooming has changed drastically. Men are really starting to see the value and importance of self-care and take pride in looking and feeling good. Whereas before it was shrugged off or even sometimes laughed at, now it's like "No, but why are your nails filthy for real!". This has also spilled out in retail, you can see the men’s aisle expanding with new brands and new categories being introduced. What once used to be a place to get razors and shaving cream has now evolved into a full service self-care destination with products to elevate our grooming in all aspects. This is very exciting and offers a great opportunity for brands like ours to grow and establish ourselves as key players in this space."
“I am not a fan of the term protective hairstyles. I feel it can suggest that this practise can cause no harm. This is sadly not the case. I understand the principle behind it, it can stop over manipulation and damage that can be caused by grooming. But the simple fact is not all these styles are created equally. Damage can be caused to the follicle from styling that is too tight and left in for too long.”
“Working as a husband-and-wife partnership has been a blessing on the whole, allowing us to pursue mutual goals and collectively working on our "why" purpose in life. However, it does come with challenges. Establishing work boundaries, understanding our strengths and weaknesses has helped us be more efficient and productive. For the longevity of any working marriagepartnership it's incredibly important to get the work-life balance right. Good honest communication is the key to overall success and dates nights are must!”
BEAUTY
3INA superdrug.com
AESOP aesop.com
ASHE LONDON ashelondon.com
ATHLETIA athletia-beauty.co.uk
AVA ESTELL uk.avaestell.com
BAREMINERALS bareminerals.co.uk
BDK bdkparfums.com
BETTER WORLD FRAGRANCE HOUSE harrods.com
BYOMA boots.com
CHARLOTTE TILBURY charlottetilbury.com
CIATÉ LONDON ciatelondon.com
DREEM DISTILLERY dreemdistillery.co.uk
FENTY BEAUTY boots.com
GALLINÉE gallinee.com
HAUS LABS sephora.co.uk
HERITAGE STORE heritagestore.com
ICONIC LONDON iconiclondoninc.com
IL MAKIAGE ilmakiage.com/uk
KUTEMWA SKIN Kutemwaskin.com
LAURA MERCIER lauramercier.co.uk
LIZ EARLE boots.com
LOTTIE LONDON Superdrug.com
LUNA luna-daily.com
MAC COSMETICS maccosmetics.co.uk
MBH www.mumbubhub.co.uk
MORPHE uk.morphe.com
MYRTLE AND MAUDE boots.com
NAILS & BROWS MAYFAIR nailsandbrows.me
NARS narscosmetics.co.uk
PRIMARK BEAUTY primark.com
SKIN PROUD iamproud.com
SKNTONE yourskntone.com
SUPERFOODLX superfoodlx.com
TRUE SKINCARE trueskincare.co.uk
WELEDA hollandandbarret.com
HAIR
AFRICAN COLLECTION spellbeauty.com AS I AM lookfantastic.com
BLEACH LONDON superdrug.com
CHARLES WORTHINGTON boots.com
CRÈME OF NATURE spellbeauty.com
CURL ID curlid.com
CURLSMITH uk.curlsmith.com
DESIGN ESSENTIALS spellbeauty.com
EPRES epresbeauty.co.uk
FEME WIG spellbeauty.com
GHD ghdhair.com
GOT2B superdrug.com
HAIRSTORY hairstory.com
HEALTHY HAIR STUDIO healthyhairstudio.co.uk
INSTANT WEAVE spellbeauty.com
LAVA CAP sephora.co.uk
MA BROWN'S pakcosmetics.com
MIELLE ORGANICS spellbeauty.com
NOUGHTY lovenoughty.co.uk
OLAPLEX cultbeauty.co.uk
PATTERN BEAUTY boots.com
PHILIP KINGSLEY philipkingsley.co.uk
QUICK WEAVE spellbeauty.com
REHAB LONDON rehabyourhair.com
SENSATIONNEL spellbeauty.com
SHEAR MUSE spellbeauty.com
SOFN’FEE all good afro stores
SPOTLIGHT spellbeauty.com
THE FEME COLLECTION spellbeauty.com
UBERLISS uberliss.com
URBAN spellbeauty.com
X-PRESSION spellbeauty.com
ALEMAIS net-a-porter.com
AMI coggles.com
CREW CLOTHING crewclothing.co.uk
DREAMI BOUTIQUE dreamiboutique.co.uk
FATHER BY PAPA B amazon.co.uk
GHOST ghost.co.uk
GR LONDON PARIS grlondonparis.com
GUCCI coggles.com
LNB JEWELLERY lnbbrand.com
MAM mamoriginals.com
NEST Selfridges.com
PHARRELL-ISMS amazon.co.uk
PINKO pinko.com
REISS reiss.com
TACO boardgamegeek.com
THE BEST ME! amazon.co.uk
THE LIST waterstones.com
THUNDER GIRL sheniandteni.com
UNDERGROUND underground-england.com
COVER CREDITS
Photography Femelle Studios
Hair Kevin Shanti using Sensationnel
Make-up Natasha Wright
Styling Deborah Latouche
Take the Afro Lace Wig to new style heights by having it cut and groomed to suit you. With texture so real, you’ll forget you’re wearing a wig!