All you need to know about Ruwa water-repellent braids
36 Headmasters
UK’s top textured trichologists talk about hair loss
40 Market mania
Black Culture Market on changing the landscape of shopping
42 Spell meets Not to be missed interviews
EDITOR Jemima Cousins WRITERS Jennifer Meredith DESIGNER Rob Wheele
07 Win 20 The gloves are off
28 Bring it on blush
40 Market mania
04 Scoop
12 Love for the 90s
SCOOP
Bulletin with all the industry goss! Interview
Bringing skincare to scalp care, and pitching to top model Jourdan Dunn
BEHIND THE BRAND
THE STEAM BAR
The first to merge ‘skinification’ with the ritual of hair steaming, founder Judy Koloko explains why Selfridges is the perfect location for her premium textured salon, The Steam Bar.
Working with Selfridges has been a journey that started about two years ago. Their support during the launch has been fantastic. They recognise the need for premium hair brands in our community, which excites them about introducing brands like mine. The store attracts a diverse range of customers beyond my usual target audience, creating new opportunities for awareness and growth. Being in a space with a wide variety of visitors allows The Steam Bar to be among highly sought-after beauty brands and designers, which has been a goal of mine.
I was thrilled when Jourdan Dunn agreed to be part of our campaign. I met her at an event last year and explained the concept. She loved the idea and agreed to invest by being in the campaign.
I was inspired to launch The Steam Bar because I noticed increasing hair and scalp damage from personal styling practices and sought solutions through salons and various products. Nothing I tried met the high standards I hold in other aspects of my life. With afro hair, I felt salon experiences and products often fell short of the mark in terms of a standard. And we deserve better!
Our approach at The Steam Bar is ‘skinification’ for the scalp. We worked with renowned cosmetic scientists specialising in skin microbiome. We have used ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerine and prebiotics usually found in skincare products in our hair care collection to ensure the best level of scalp support to promote healthy hair growth. The heat from steaming opens the scalp’s pores and activates the ingredients keeping the pH balance of the scalp regulated.
When you visit our sanctuary the 'Steam Queens' are the first point of call. They have been trained by the director of The College of Trichology about the physiology of afro hair alongside scalp care. I felt it was important that our Queens are not just stylists, but also be trained on what the scalp is doing, how the hair grows, what hair is etc. So much has gone into the training, we are privileged to provide education and care to our community.
Debut campaign featuring Jourdan Dunn. Below: The Steam Hair collection from £30
Culture
BERNIE GRANT ARTS CENTRE KICKS OFF SUMMER WITH JAM PACKED PROGRAMME
Looking for a family fun day out? The Bernie Grant Arts Centre launched its summer schedule filled to the brim with exhibitions, performances and arts activities for all ages. Currently exhibiting is a display curated by Ronan Mckenzie highlighting oral histories and lived experiences centring on the concept of possibility. Following an exciting outdoor block party on Windrush Day itself, the programme concludes with a two-week performing arts summer camp for seven to 11 year olds, teaching music, art and drama during the school holidays. Head over to spellmagazine. co.uk for further details.
Beauty
BLACK SKIN DIRECTORY ADVOCATES FOR SUN SAFETY
In May (and just before the British summer peaked) the team behind skincare resource Black Skin Directory took to the streets outside the Islington Design Centre to educate the public about sun safety for skin of colour. Armed with goody bags featuring the new Invisible Shield SPF50 from Glossier, their straight-talking placards “Black will crack if you’re slack” has us taking a mindful approach to UVA/UVB rays.
New
MAYA JAMA TALKS HAIR
Known for her head-turning Love Island looks, presenter Maya Jama has partnered with Beauty Works to launch a capsule collection of hair extensions named after food – Hot Fudge fringe, anyone? When we caught up with the mane muse at the launch, she told us, “Who doesn’t like food? There were lots of options, we tried to think of a music theme but since the colours have such rich chocolatey and warm tones to them, we just kept coming back to food!”
Quote
of the month
“It’s all about mastering the skill of ignoring ignorance”
Rihanna
Original Flava
For a feed brimming with taste, follow Craig and Shaun McAnuff, two brothers who are taking Caribbean cuisine countrywide with their brand, Original Flava. Alongside three bestselling books and appearances on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, the chefs are currently touring the UK bringing their mouthwatering recipes to the masses. Follow for the best jerk Caribbean roast you’ve ever seen, as well as curveballs like cheesy scotch bonnet garlic hardo' bread.
Master Caleb
Motivational speakers come in all shapes and sizes, but have you ever seen a speaker who’s just nine years old? Enter Master Caleb Stewart, the world's youngest motivational speaker. By five years old, Master Caleb had already starred on NBC’s Little Big Shots, and he currently tours the US with his parents and sisters, giving talks on the importance of reading. Follow his Instagram page for your daily dose of heartwarming, familyfriendly content, and follow the family on their nationwide tour.
The Kurl Kitchen
Hot on the heels of Cécred and Fenty Hair, sisters Fleur and Keshia East have launched The Kurl Kitchen, a hair brand designed for curly, coily, wavy and tight-textured hair. Conceived back in 2022, when the sisters first posted on the brand’s Instagram page, fans are rejoicing that the curlnourishing products are now available to purchase – and better yet, the full range is stocked at high street giant, Boots! Hit the follow button as the brand evolves with new products and innovations for textured tresses.
WHO to follow
The BobLyfe
Have you been mulling over a bob? We’ve all battled with the dilemma at some point in life. To bob or not to bob? That is the question! However, if you need convincing to book the salon appointment, there’s only one Instagram page to visit: The BobLyfe. With almost-daily posts, The BobLyfe serves regular hair-spiration from influencers, models and celebrities. Also, check out the The BobLyfeKids if you have a mini-me sporting a midlength blowout.
Fine Ass Fronts
Popularised in the eighties, upgraded in the nineties, and trending once again in the early noughties, grills are the unexpected comeback craze of 2024. Brooklyn-based designer Jilijah is the mastermind behind Fine Ass Fronts, offering caps and grills in offbeat designs – think diamond and emerald good luck charms, and 14 carat gold spiders. His Instagram page is a showcase of his unique work, which includes custom designs that can set customers back thousands of dollars.
Black Skin Directory
Founded by aesthetician Dija Ayodele, the Black Skin Directory is a global beauty and skincare resource for Black and multicultural skin. If you’re ever unsure about how you should care for your skin, BSD’s Instagram page is brimming with advice tailored to specific skin types; news about developments within the skincare industry; and honest product and clinic reviews and recommendations from their expert team. Follow to become an expert in your own skin!
LIVING PROOF Advanced Clean Dry Shampoo, £27; PREMIUM PLUS Tara 27 Pcs, £11.99; WIG FIX , £24.99; CANTU Strengthening
Biotin-Infused Hair & Scalp Oil, £9
EVERYTHING YOU NEED
for summer brunches
A
round up of hair and beauty essentials plus more
Just like it’s happy hour somewhere in the world, there’s a brunch on and popping in some corner of the hemisphere. With the British summer in full swing (N.B. sun is shining at time of writing this), chances are you have several brunch dates booked in the diary.
Whether you’re heading to a trendy café, hosting in your backyard, or signed up to a boozy bottomless brunch, being prepared ensures your
time is as enjoyable as the weather. So where do you start? Prioritise comfort and style. A chic pair of sunglasses and versatile sandals can not only be dressed up or down, it will see you through plenty of alfresco activities.
Sunscreen is a must, even if you plan to be in the shade. Beauty pointers to follow; use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher made from a mineral formula. We promise this will sit well under a
full face of make-up and eliminate shiny build up through the day. If you’re packing light, you can find practical phone cases doubling up as make-up or sunscreen holder for touch ups on the go.
For last minute plans, clip-in extensions are a style saviour and for final touches, set the mood with a portable Bluetooth speaker and a divine fragrance to evoke fun-filled memories.
Unsplash: Nate Johnston
QUICK FIX
BIG BEAUTIFUL HAIR
Clip-in 4C Coily Fro, £22.99
PAI
British Summer Time Glow SPF30, £34
JUST IN CASE
Limited Edition Sun Case, Free in selected O2 stores
MOLTON BROWN
Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold EDP 100ml, £110
DUNE
Loto Leather Sandal, £90
TUNES ON TAP
BANG & OLUFSEN
‘Beosound A1’ Wireless Portable Bluetooth Speaker, £239
KEMI TELFORD
Leaf Print Puff Sleeve Midi Dress, £155
PALMER’S
Raw Shea Nourish Hand Cream, £2.83
THROW SHADE
NOMAD EYEWEAR
Champagne Summer Glasses, £46.95
Two decades later (yes, you read that right) these key throwback trends are being given a second lease of life
Every generation will look back upon the fashion trends of their youth with one of two emotions: fondness or disdain. If you’re part of the latter, you might catch yourself cringing at old photos, wondering why jeggings had such a hold on you, or why your sunglasses were so big when you weren’t even trying to hide a hangover. If there’s a silver lining, it’s that it wasn’t just you who dressed like this – the compact digital camera evidence gives you plenty of leverage over your friends. And what’s more, we are already seeing a flurry of
fashion followers embrace these crazes once more – so you can go ahead and post those #ThrowbackThursday photos with pride.
Like all trends, what goes around comes back around. With the recent resurgence of Uggs, Ed Hardy and low rise trousers, it might seem like we are living in a timewarp. However, the savviest fashionistas will know that 20 years is all it takes for trending styles to come full circle. Saving your baguette bag at the back of your wardrobe for all that time doesn’t seem like such a silly thing after all!
THE PEPLUM
Jane Norman attire, like a glovefitting peplum dress and matching heels, oozed nineties sex appeal. The waist-accentuating silhouette was the cornerstone of business casual, taking the noughties woman from office-to-bar with ease. Those who favoured this look may rejoice at the fact that the AW24 catwalks were peppered with peplums, as were the red carpets and after parties of this year’s award shows. But note the difference: modern iterations, whether bijou or verging on comically oversized, are more structured and pronounced than their predecessors.
NEW LOOK
Skinny Jeans, £29.99
PEACOCKS
Peplum Blouse, £20
QUIZ
Peplum Midi Dress, £36.99
Top, £29.99
TED BAKER
Peplum Dress, £150
HI PEARL Necklace, £43.95
RIVER ISLAND
Heeled Sandals, £45
SELF PORTRAIT
Peplum Skirt, £250, Farfetch
KAREN MILLEN Peplum Top, £75
TK MAXX
Gold Label Peplum Top, £199
THE FEME COLLECTION PONYTAIL
THE SIDE PONYTAIL
Asymmetry has had many fashion moments – and when it came to hair, it took no prisoners. Beyoncé donned a side ponytail on more than one occasion, joined by the likes of J-Lo and Keke Palmer as they attended public appearances with these shoulder-warming looks. While, nowadays, Queen Bey much prefers her locks loose, it’s still possible to spot a side ponytail on the red carpet. Issa Rae, Halle Bailey and Justine Skye have all sported the look with a contemporary spin, focusing on emphasised texture and creative styling.
PRIMARK Leggings, £7
RADLEY Boots, £149
Frisky DR Galaxy, £18.99
HAIR STORY Hair Balm, £39
MANIERE DE VOIR Wrap Top, £79.99
THE BANDAGE DRESS
Discomfort seemed to be king in the noughties, when squeezing yourself into a dress made with the tightest fabric known to man was standard practice on a Friday night. However, when your inspiration was a 2007 Rihanna in dusky pink Hervé Leger, who could blame you? These days, bandage dresses are less compressing, more curve-cuddling, as celebrities like model Jawahir Khalifa and The Bachelor star Tayshia Adams rock the style with a modern flare. When reviving this trend, don’t forget your envelope clutch – all the more space to store your enormous Nokia E75, complete with full QWERTY keyboard (á la Kelly Rowland in her Dilemma era).
GUESS
HOUSE OF CB
Mini Dress, £200
HERVE Leger Top, £635.81
KAREN MILLEN Bandage Top, £69, Debenhams
MANIÈRE DE VOIR Bandage Playsuit, £89.99
MONSOON
Clutch Bag, £40
Mini Dress, £149, Selfridges
PRETTY LITTLE THING Bandage Dress, £58
QUIZ Bodycon Skirt, £15
DUNE Heels, £90
PANDORA Bangle Gift Set, £90
Dipbrow Pomade in Medium Brown, £21
THE MATTE FINISH
Is there a beauty trend that epitomises the noughties more than matte make-up? We don’t think so. Lori Harvey, Jordyn Woods and Briana Monique have long been sporting the antithesis to dolphin skin, albeit with a silk-matte focus, rather than the powdery finishes of yesteryear. While the beloved throwback Maybelline fave, Dream Matte Mousse, has sadly been discontinued, there are plenty of silk-matte foundations on the market, with formulas far superior to their forerunners. Pair with filled and brushed brows, and an iconic chalky lipstick of your choosing.
Feme Wig The Feme Collection Haircare Gift Set Limited Edition
Braid
The gloves are off
Caroline Dubois is inspiring the next generation of young female athletes to think outside the boxing ring when it comes to support systems, mental health and the gender pay gap
‘Born to do it’ is a fitting adage for British boxer Caroline Dubois who just so happens to come from a line of boxing champions. Or how about the inspiring pop culture quote: ‘Pressure makes diamonds’, after all it’s a weighty heritage to uphold, but one she shoulders with pride, as the young champ affirms that her family is her biggest support – particularly her brother, Daniel, who became the IBF Interim world heavyweight champion in June of this year.
However, while Caroline’s lineage may play some role in her worldclass talent, there’s no denying that the southpaw worked hard to build a career as a professional boxer in the face of gender discrimination within the sport. Having emerged into boxing during a time when young
girls were turned away from gyms, she’s thankful to see that times are changing, and to be a part of that transition as a role model for young female athletes, stating, “I’ll be someone that a girl can look up to and think, I feel I am represented by Caroline Dubois. She’s doing what I’m doing. She looks exactly like me. She acts like me.”
Having become Youth Olympic champion, World Youth champion, IBO lightweight champion and BBC Young Sports Personality of the Year, the 23 year old has achieved so much, so soon in her professional career. But she’s far from throwing in the towel. Here, she talks about the bright future that lies ahead, the gender pay gap in sport, and how the phrase ‘look good, feel good’ applies in the ring.
Photography by Desmond Murray Hair by Aisha Ibrahim and Sabine Clough using Ruwa Pre-Stretched Braids
Make-up by Natasha Wright
Styling by Simone Sylvester
Art directing by Jemima Cousins
“NO ONE EVER PREPARES TO LOSE. YOU ALWAYS TRAIN TO WIN. AND WHEN YOU’VE BEEN WINNING FOR SO LONG, YOU EXPECT IT TO COME EASY.”
YOU FIRST ENTERED THE RING AS A YOUNG GIRL PRETENDING TO BE A BOY TO FIT IN. CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THAT STORY?
I started boxing at Repton Amateur Boxing Club. It said on the door that it was a boys boxing club, and a lot of clubs in London and England were the same. There were no national competitions for women or girls. So, when I got started at nine years old, I couldn’t go to the club and reveal that I was a girl. My dad came up with the idea to pretend that I was a boy, and I told them my name was Colin. After the
session, while I was still disguised as a boy, the coach came up to me and said, “you’re talented. You’re going to be a world champion”. I left because I had to get a medical done for a fight, but when I came back, that same coach said I couldn’t return to the club.
SINCE THEN, AS A WOMAN IN A PREDOMINANTLY MALE SPORT, HAS YOUR GENDER EVER BEEN A BARRIER FOR PROGRESSION IN YOUR CAREER?
Maybe more so earlier in my career. At Repton, there were no female boxers at
the time, and even when I went to the next club, the coach was still unsure. He wondered who I could spar with and if I could even keep up with the training. But then I trained and sparred at that club for the first time, and he became a believer. A lot of times [the prejudice] comes from ignorance and not having experience with girls in the gym. There was a lot of “I wouldn’t let my girl box”. But I feel like the times are changing with the likes of the Olympics, and female headliners like Katie Taylor, Natasha Jonas and Claressa Shields –they’re doing amazing things to change that. Now, we see dads and mums bringing their daughters to the gym!
WHEN IT COMES TO LOSING A FIGHT IN BOXING, THERE’S MENTAL AS WELL AS PHYSICAL PAIN - HOW HAVE YOU DEALT WITH THE MENTAL SIDE OF LOSSES IN THE PAST?
I went through the Europeans, Schools, Juniors and the Youth Olympics, and won them all. I didn’t lose my first fight until I was 19 years old, and I must have had around 45 fights. It was a massive shock and I was disappointed in myself. You know, it hurts. No one ever prepares to lose. You always train to win. And when you’ve been winning for so long, you expect it to come easy and you expect to win. My first loss taught me about how being an athlete, not just a good boxer, is very important.
I didn’t have it easy, but I was naturally gifted. I heard a lot of people say I had natural talent. It made me think that I didn’t need to put in the overtime, and I didn’t need to work doubly hard as a Youth and a Junior. But as soon as I hit Seniors, suddenly making the wave was a little bit harder. Training was harder. It taught me a lot and I feel like I’m still using those lessons today, now that I’ve turned professional.
WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS FOR MAINTAINING YOUR MENTAL WELLBEING AMIDST THE PRESSURES OF COMPETITION AND TRAINING?
My brother and sister are always around me. We’re very close. My sister has always supported me in everything I do, and I feel like we’re very open with each other. We talk to each other a lot and
I think that helps with staying grounded. It’s about having someone that you can chat to and really open up, especially when you’re going through a hard time.
WHAT IS YOUR IDEAL SELF-CARE DAY?
It definitely involves going out to eat with my brother and sister. I like to pamper myself and get my nails and hair done. I like buying clothes. I love shopping - which probably isn’t the best thing! But mainly I would spend time with people I can have a laugh with.
WHAT IS YOUR GOTO HAIRSTYLE THAT KEEPS YOU FEELING GREAT IN THE RING?
When I was younger, I used to get straight back canerows in my hair. But as I’ve grown up, I like to spice it up and just have fun. When I step into the ring, it’s all about putting on a show, from my outfit that I wear when I fight, down to the boots, and of course, my hair. I go to a hairstylist who makes sure that I’m looking good. It doesn’t necessarily matter what the hairstyle is, but it will always be braided – something nice and slick. If you look good, you feel good and you fight good. I really stand by that. I like stepping in the ring knowing that I look like a million dollars.
as muscular as me. I’ve really got into styling and wearing clothes that suit my body shape. I’ve got an athletic build, so I like to wear clothes that bring it out. You can see the muscle, but you can also see a touch of femininity. I like to wear dresses and I would say that I’m a girly girl outside of the ring.
WOMEN’S SPORTS ARE GAINING MORE VISIBILITY AND RECOGNITION, BUT THERE’S STILL A LONG WAY TO GO. WHAT CHANGES WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE IN WOMEN’S SPORTS OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS?
As boxers, we’re putting ourselves out there for the public to judge us, so you want to do it knowing that you’re at your best and that you are putting out the best image of yourself.
SWEAT IS A BIG CAUSE OF CLOGGED PORES AND ACNE IN ATHLETES, HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR SKIN LOOKING AND FEELING FRESH?
I think finding skincare products that are specific to your needs is very
important. I don’t really do a lot, and I know I probably should. But I’ve got into a routine of using a few go-to, trusted products like Aztec clay, which I use as a face mask whenever I feel like my skin is getting too oily. I also like to wash my face with a nice cleanser and use a good moisturising cream straight after training just to get rid of all the sweat and the build-up. It’s so important because you don’t want to let the sweat sit on your face.
WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE?
I feel like I have a specific body type. I’ve got big muscles, and it can be very awkward sometimes wearing clothes that look good on my sister, who isn’t
I think the improvement has been massive, and I think we’re on the right trajectory to continue to see an improvement, and continue seeing the gap shorten between the male and the female. I feel like pay is one difference that we can see with female and male boxers. For example, Katie Taylor is selling out arenas in Ireland and she’s a huge star out there. But if you compare her pay to a male boxer, it’s not the same and I would like to see that change. That, and the level of respect. It has come a long way, but I think there’s further to go.
ROLE MODELS PLAY A SIGNIFICANT ROLE IN INSPIRING THE NEXT GENERATION. HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT BEING A ROLE MODEL FOR YOUNGER ATHLETES?
It’s crazy, because when I was growing up, I definitely didn’t have a lot of female role models to look up to. I remember I used to watch Laila Ali, but I couldn’t really relate to her because she was so much older than me. She was a professional when I was an amateur. It wasn’t until Cressida Shields came
Dress
Bae x Adidas, White t shirtAsos, Pearl necklace and gold collar neckpiecestylists own, Pearl and malachite ring: Moushe
SWEAT-PROOF YOUR STYLE
Curb a sweaty gym sesh with these buys
onto the scene; she was a young 17-year-old Black girl just like me. It helped me so much in terms of confidence and feeling better about myself now that I had Cressida to look up to. Then there was Natasha Jones and Nicola Adams. And then people were calling me a role model, and I don’t know when that change happened for me. I was looking up to people, and now, people are looking up to me. I guess it’s just something you have to embrace. I can’t be a role model to every single young girl out there but I’ll be a role model somebody. I’ll be someone that a girl can look up to and think, I feel I am represented by Caroline Dubois.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUNG GIRLS ASPIRING TO BE ATHLETES?
Obviously, train hard. I know that’s cliché, but it’s so important. Make it a lifestyle, whatever sport you’re doing, if it’s boxing or something else. Even in general, whatever you’re doing, make it your lifestyle, make it a part of who you are. When you do, it feels more natural. Make sure it’s something that you love, that you’re passionate about and that you care about. Surround yourself with people who are role models. People you look up to, who inspire you. I heard a quote that says, “show me who your friends are, and I’ll tell you who you are”, so be surrounded by good people.
FINALLY, WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE GOALS, BOTH IN AND OUT OF THE BOXING RING?
In the ring, definitely to be a multiweight world champion. It’s to be undisputed, if I can, at different weights. Change the game, change the way female boxing is viewed and hopefully do something that has never been done before. Sell out arenas. Create a wave of excitement in female boxing. Be involved in massive fights, and do something that I can be proud of.
Outside of the ring. I want to change my life financially. I want to change my brother’s and my sister’s lives, and help my mom. And I want to travel the world and experience what it has to offer.
MELANIN-RICH TANNING IS A THING!
For a sun-kissed vibe, we say, make bronzing skincare your tribe. The latest generation of tanning products not only enhance the glow on melanin skin, it evens out the complexion too. Bali Body’s Self Tanning Milk offers more than buildable bronzing. It features hyaluronic acid, ceramides and vitamin c to heal and hydrate dullness. If you prefer a matte finish, By Terry’s Tea to Tan Face & Body has a transfer-proof formula tinting the skin without the use of tanning agents. For the face use Isle of Paradise Sunny Serum that washes off, and for finishing touches Lottie London’s Body Glow Body Highlighter gives 10 out of 10 shimmering results.
spell loves
FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE
Glow up season is officially here! From fake tans to sustainable beauty... there’s even grooming ideas for your pet BALI BODY’S Self Tanning Milk, £25.95
LOTTIE LONDON’S Body Glow Body Highlighter, £12.95
BRANDS TO BOOKMARK
PEEP CLUB Re-useable Velvet Bamboo Pads, £15 for 8 FILTHY FAACE Face & Body Bar, £14 NAYDAYA The Gua Sha Tool, £32
ISLE OF PARADISE Sunny Serum, £15.95
BY TERRY Tea To Tan Face & Body, £59
Lottie London
GREY DAYS
The angst to cover up greys is no more! To much relief, the colour is FINALLY trending amongst all ages. However you choose to wear it – natural, bleach, wigs or weave – here are recommendations to have in your arsenal to keep the shade fresh and vibrant.
Wide Iron,
SPELL STYLE GALLERIES
Visit spellmagazine.co.uk to browse our style galleries for hundreds of hair-spiration!
CLOUD NINE HAIR STORIES
Mums with postpartum hair loss can look and feel great! To reinforce the narrative, Cloud Nine’s campaign documents the journey of nine inspirational women sharing the high and lows of their transformational hair journey. New mum Adjoa (pictured left) reveals the Cloud Nine Wide Iron – a gamechanger for afro textured hair – played a key part in restoring her hair. “I love Cloud Nine heated styling tools because you can regulate the temperature to protect the health of your hair,” she enthuses. “Being able to change the temperature is really important for me because it means I can get the style I want without having to compromise on the quality of my hair,” Head over to spellmagazine. co.uk to read her story.
Save money on your grooming bill by caring for your furry friend’s hygiene at home. The Cat Grooming Brush by Tangle Teezer has its trademark two-tiered teeth technology, perfect for removing short to medium length fur. Oh, and how cute is the paw-shaped design! When it comes to bath time, Dr. Bronner’s Green Tea Soap all-natural bar soap works for humans, as well as pets, leaving a fresh, citrusy scent behind. Faith In Nature Dog shampoo promises a healthy, shiny coat with its pH-balanced formula – and you can refill your bottles.
Grooming Brush,
23 bald braids to try
C-part weaves to be seen in this summer
The best bridal braids
Bring it on
Sculpt the face or pile it on. This time anything goes
Another day, another blush trend. Take your pick of the bunch: Boyfriend Blush sits slightly lower on the cheeks, giving a natural contour, whilst Sunset Blush –MUAs favourite – involves applying a golden shimmer or highlighter above the blush you’ve already applied creating a seamless gradient. There’s no shortage of make-up formulas too. Liquid and cream blushes are easy to blend out especially if you want an eighties vibe. But for colour control, look to the new wave of blush balms.
@melissa_hurkman @isabelleikpeme
@glamby.lamm
@nidalkabashi
@naomisimoneb
COLLECTION COSMETICS
Gorgeous Glow Sticks, £4.99
HAUS LABS BY LADY GAGA
Color Fuse Glassy Blush Balm Stick, £30
Skin health focus
Relying on lotion and potions to attain a clear complexion is not foolproof. For transformative results, feed your skin what it needs
MYLA’S MOSS
Sea Moss Gel, £15
Replace expensive serums with sea moss gel. Hailed for its various skin-friendly properties it can solve a long list of skin woes from acne to anti-aging.
HUMANTRA (20 sachets), £28
Not getting through eight glasses of water a day? One Humantra stick hydrates four times more effectively than water alone. Simply add to your next drink.
ADUNA FONIO
Super-Grain, £3.99
Prized for its mild, nutty flavour and light, fluffy texture, use this in place of rice in daily meals for a boost in vitamin B1, vital
Waking up to clear skin can be a fluke. To guarantee a flawless complexion wear this trusted patch enriched with natural extracts for skincare around the clock.
SPLURGE
Are you victim of product piling?
Does your skin go off balance in the summer months? Product application could be the culprit. Lettica Philips founder and creator of Skiniri tells us more
Product layering is a new concept that involves applying multiple skincare products in a specific sequence. This technique works well as part of an evening routine or in the winter months when the skin is not exposed to too much sun.
It is important to cleanse, tone and exfoliate all year round but to avoid product build-up on your skin in the warmer climate, allow each product in your skincare routine time to be properly absorbed into your skin before applying the next one. A minute or so in between layers should be fine.
If you apply all your skincare steps one after the other without allowing the appropriate time for each product to be properly absorbed, you risk what is known as skincare or product pilling. Pilling is what happens when your skincare product or make-up clumps into tiny balls or flakes after you’ve applied it. It can also occur when people apply too much of any given product like a primer and moisturiser or moisturiser and sunscreen.
Whilst pilling is harmless it can affect your skin barrier and even clog your pores, so be mindful if you notice your products are not being absorbed into or sitting on your skin correctly (especially with make-up) as it could be a sign that your skincare application and routine needs to be altered.
I always say less is more! Especially with Skiniri products which are naturally rich, a little will always go a long way and the richness of each product may mean some will take longer to absorb than others. By starting with less, you can always add more and give each product
Keep skin in check with a minimal approach
time to absorb before you move on to the next layer or product.
The other side of avoiding product buildup is making sure it has been removed properly and for this step I really enjoy double cleansing for my face, especially after a long day wearing make-up. I just love how clean and free my skin feels after doing it.
Our face attracts all sorts just from stepping out the front door. Dust, dirt and bacteria from air pollutants to excess oils and sweat will throw the skin’s pH balance. So, cleansing your face at the end of the day regardless if you wear make-up or not, is essential.
Double cleansing is basically cleansing your face twice, first with an oil-based product and then followed by a water/ gel-based cleanser. Although the thought of cleansing twice may seem like double the effort, it can have double the benefits as many dermatologists support double cleansing as the answer to smoother, brighter skin.
Side note: double cleansing might not work for everyone. If you have dry or sensitive you should avoid double cleansing as you might find it too drying for your skin.
TRAVEL IN STYLE: CHECKLIST
Whether you’re planning a staycation (albeit the 50 days of rain set for the UK), an impromptu weekender or off to a tropical resort for a fortnight, here’s a curated list of essentials fit for the smallest to chicest travel bag.
Photography by Sarah Schindler for Ancuta
BRIOGEO
Style + Treat Sleek Stick, £20
If you’re not careful humidity and the sea breeze can wreak havoc on laid baby hairs. Take control with a few swipes of this conditioning smoothing stick. The hydrating formula and staying power is impressive!
OUTRE
Perfect Hairline, £32.99
CAROLINE
Jewellery Portfolio, £159
Having a place for everything is the golden rule for packing. Rather than stuffing a priceless necklace in an obscure space, keep personal items together in a wallet. A standout colour will make it easier to find too.
The dreaded frontal lift is every woman’s holiday hair mare. With a built-in faux scalp and pre-plucked strands for a real hair line illusion, achieve a seamless blend without glue or fiddly tweaking.
REVLON
Airflow Control Dryer, £34.99
Avoid extra luggage fees by packing compact and smart. This small but mighty dryer packs 2000 wattage and weighs a featherlight 939 grams. Don’t forget the diffuser attachment for a hint of curl versatility.
THIS WORKS
In transit skin defence, £35
Pigmentation flare ups are often attributed to sun exposure. For on-the-go protection, use a daily moisturiser with a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Re-apply throughout the day to maximise the benefits.
What’s on the Spell team’s packing list
Our team live and breathe hair and beauty, so we make it our mission to bring you the best brands in the game
CHARLES
WORTHINGTON
Sunshine UV Protection
Leave-in Spray, £3.49
Whilst we’re committed to protecting our skin from the sun, the same ideology applies to our hair. Shield strands from the drying effects of the sun and chlorine by including this efficacious spritz in your routine.
BOUCLEME
Silk Turban, £42
Whether you’re sleeping on a plane or sun lounger, you’ll need a silk turban to keep textured hair in check. 100% silk will do a stellar job at retaining moisture and reducing frizz on human and synthetic hair if you opt for a protective style.
CHARLOTTE TILBURY
More Sex 10ml, £20
Take the headache out of condensing your beauty routine into 100ml bottles. A size saving perfume will not only take up less space, but you can also pack more than without going over the luggage allowance. Makes a lot of scents!
CREME OF NATURE
Argan Oil Intensive Treatment Sachet, £1.99
Don’t forfeit on your favourite hair products. Sachets are a savvy way to keep on top of your beautifying rituals. Top up on a deep conditioning hair treatment, and if you’re somewhere hot, use the power of the sun to activate the heat.
UGLY
Why the world became beauty obsessed and how to break free, £10.99
No holiday packing list would be complete without a gripping book to escape into. Our top choice comes from Anita Bhagwandas who puts a burning spotlight on today’s beauty standards.
Immerse in the world of RUWA®
Planning holiday hair? Chances are braids top the list. Convenient and carefree – what’s not to love, right? Once you’ve pinpointed the style you want to wear (take your pick of box braids, goddess braids, knotless braids), it’s all about finding the hair that will serve come rain or shine.
Cue RUWA®
The most advanced braiding hair on the market.
Designed and developed using the latest technology in fibre innovation, RUWA® puts an end to all your braid banes – shedding, tangles, odour, heavy weight, slow drying time. Reshaping the future of braids, RUWA® bridges the gap between science and protective styling, harnessing everything you need for your dream holiday hair.
Backed by science
So how does it work?
RUWA® is made with 100% AQUATEX® fibre developed by the genius makers of Kanekalon®. Each strand is treated with an advanced hydrophobic coating to naturally reply water and moisture, allowing you to shampoo regularly with quick drying time, even after hot water setting. When it comes to poolside chilling, swimming, and showering, you can fully immerse your hair in water without the dreaded ‘weighed down’ feeling wet braids can inflict. Plus, with drying time cut in half, you can enjoy more me-time at the beach.
Futuristic fibre innovation
How does this revolutionise my holiday hair?
The team behind RUWA® manufactured the hair with an active lifestyle in mind, making it the go-to travel companion. The hydrophobic coating eliminates tangles during installation and wear, making styling and maintenance a breeze. This key feature also supports a healthy scalp care routine by minimising product build-up between washes which will prevent matting and breakage during take out –giving you the ultimate peace of mind while you vacay.
Swim-proof braids
Washing your protective style is no longer a chore. With its instantly activated fast-drying time you can say ‘goodbye’ to dank smelling hair after swimming or a gym workout. Taking the concept of classic braid extensions, and reinventing each strand with innovative fibre technology, the results of RUWA® are revolutionary.
“LET RUWA® TAKE CARE OF THE SCIENCE , AND YOU CREATE THE BRAIDS .”
make a splash & upgrade today
BESPOKE BRAIDS
Choose from seven textures to define your holiday aesthetic
NATURAL SHADES
Available in classic colours, block shades and ombré blends
DEFYING LENGTHS Folded lengths go up to a fashionable 36 inches
Shop in store or online at www.spellbeauty.com Exclusively distributed by Feme Ltd. Tel: +44 (0)208 254 3600 sales@feme.com | Feme.com
HEAdmasters
Getting to the bottom of hair and scalp problems can be frustrating. *Insert screaming face emoji. Whether it’s a mild case of dandruff, or thinning hair over the course of several months without explanation, figuring out solutions to these issues can seem impossible when your only source of information is Google. Besides, our hair is too precious to be left to the mercy of the search engine gods. Questions like “why is my hair falling out?”, much like any other medical query, can’t be answered with a TikTok video. It should be posed to a trichologist, instead.
What is a trichologist? Put simply, they’re hair heroes saving the lives of fallen follicles. Trichologists are not medical doctors but are trained professionals in hair and scalp conditions. They can identify the cause of hair loss and work with patients to understand their condition, which is often related to deficiencies and other medical issues.
While the internet can be a great source of information on hair health, it is often too broad and irrelevant for specific hair issues. A trichologist, however, can delve into the nitty gritty, considering your individual medical history, lifestyle and the products you lean toward in your regular hair routine, before diagnosing the problem at hand and recommending a personalised treatment plan. With one in 4,000* Brits developing alopecia areata each year – just one type of hair loss out of many – the expertise of trichologists has never been more essential.
In the case of textured afro hair, a good trichologist should be viewed with the same consideration as that of your go-to manicurist or hairstylist. A 2016 study by Boston University’s Slone Epidemiology Center found that almost half (48%) of black women suffer hair loss on the crown or the top of the head, mostly linked to traction alopecia. In many cases, hair loss in black women can be prevented with early diagnosis and the right advice. So, is it time to make the investment? We introduce you to the best textured trichologists in the game.
Enitan Agidee Healthy Hair Studio
With waist-length 4c hair herself, professional trichologist Enitan Agidee is her own walking, talking advertisement. She cites with the right care and treatment afro hair grows. “Hair is constructed in a way that makes breakage inevitable. Therefore, a different understanding must be applied on how to lessen it,” explains Agidee. “You can start by looking at your routine. The type of products and tools used, the material to tie the hair, can all contribute to breakage, and in more severe cases, hair loss.”
Her west London studio is a hub of hair coaches and trichologists treating hair loss in medical and holistic ways which means the salon menu is not atypical. Featuring texlaxing – relaxing without making the hair bone straight – and a roster of conditioning treatments administered through nano mist, one visit is guaranteed to upgrade your approach to hair care.
Alexie Hylton Elite 9 Hair Clinic
Usually, specialist clinics are in London; Harley Street to be exact but if you reside in the Midlands Elite 9 Hair Clinic is worth a visit. The owner Alexie Hylton has garnered over 25 years’ experience in the trichology field. Trained at the World Trichology Society, Hylton relates to patients on a deeper level having suffered with trichorrhexis nodosa, a condition where the hair shaft develops weak points causing it to break very easily. “Most clients are so embarrassed about their hair loss that they want the consultation done privately. They also want a wig that looks natural, so that people don’t realise that they are wearing one.”
Not only is there a focus on treating the cause of hair loss, Hylton helps paitents regain confidence by finding effective solutions, whether in the form of a bespoke wig or treatments to encourage regrowth. “My experience has taught me that people like to talk about what has caused their hair loss, including personal issues. Privacy and a oneto-one consultation allows them to openly share this information.”
Rachael E. D Sey
Cherub London
Chronic stress is linked to hair loss, and this is something Cherub London founder Rachael E. D Sey is no stranger to, having experienced telogen effluvium (rapid hair loss caused by stress). A certified trichologist and hairstylist, Sey explains that, “Cherub London prides itself in offering a 360 approach to hair growth,” meaning the salon considers hair health as a reflection of internal health. “Chronic stress can disrupt hormone levels and contribute to hair loss,” says Sey. “Finding healthy ways to manage stress, such as exercise, meditation, or counselling, can help support overall hair health.”
Following a highly in-depth hair and scalp consultation, clients may be recommended a curated treatment package to address concerns, with individual remedies including plateletrich plasma (PRP) injections, ultrasonic scalp exfoliation, biotin shots, and more.
Lorna Jones Caring for Hair
When it comes to hair loss and Afrotextured hair, Lorna Jones has written the book on it (two books, in fact)!
Operating out of Caring for Hair clinics in Upper Wimpole Street and Forest Hill, the expert trichologist specialises in central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), a type of central hair loss condition that is found almost exclusively in black women.
TRICHOLOGY APPROVED
1. Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Therapies Refill, £108
Hair care is an investment. So, when you find an efficacious product like Philip Kingsley’s Elasticizer, it’s worth the spend. Refill packs will help you stay on top of fortnightly deep conditioning treatments paramount for reducing breakage.
Loved by trichologist Alexie Hylton, this overnight treatment makes haircare less arduous. Use to prep go-to-bed styles like jumbo braiding, flat twisting or roller-setting, or simply slather on to wake up to soft, moisturised hair.
3. Cherub London Tricho Restore Shampoo, from £26.50
If strong hair growth is on your list of wants, Tricho Restore Shampoo is the ticket. Regular use reduces hair loss up to 89 per cent. The clinically proven formula contains the super hydrant Pro-Vitamin B5 so it’s not overly drying on porous hair.
4. SuperfoodLx 12 Hair Follicle Treatment, £41
Don’t know where to start with hair oils? This little wonder bottle has 12 100% organic cold pressed oils. Apply two to three drops every few inches across the scalp to help accelerate growth and improve scalp health.
5. Healthy Hair Studio by Enitan Inches Conditioned Instant and Deep Conditioner, £36.50
Trichologist Enitan Aigdee has used her expertise to formulate a conditioner packed with a myriad of essential oils. Rather than list them all, the hero ingredient found in the 600ml tub is Chia Seed Oil, vital for improving hair texture.
6. Viviscal Max Strength Hair Growth Supplement 30 pack, £29.99
* Statistic from The epidemiology of alopecia areata: a populationbased cohort study in UK primary care
In addition, Jones runs C & Hair the only trichology-led, cancer-related hair loss service in the UK centring on Afro-textured hair. Services include support groups, hair clinics, educational webinars and interactive workshops, with the aim of providing haircare education for those who have lost their hair through chemotherapy. As Jones says, “Support can play a very important role right through from diagnosis to post-treatment”. So, if you or someone you know is suffering from cancer induced hair loss, C & Hair provide a crucia service to help regain confidence.
Supplements are the best option when taking a ‘inside out’ approach to hair loss. When used in conjunction with a healthy diet, the extra dose of vitamins is ideal for hair that’s become weakened. Vivisical uses marine protein complex to repair hair cells vital for longer, thicker strands.
7. Afroani Blackcurrent Wide Tooth Comb, £10.99
Wide tooth combs deserve credit. In fact, they’re the bedrock to healthy hair. Think about it –detangling without snagging, distributing product evenly, curl defining, the list goes on. For an upgrade, Afroani’s combs are made with cellulose acetate an eco-friendly alternative to plastic.
Mar ket mania
Pop-up markets are trending and for niche hair and beauty finds, Black Culture Market is leading the way
In the dynamic landscape of blackowned businesses, the rise of markets and pop-ups has revolutionised the way independent and upcoming brands connect with consumers. In a digitally dominated age where online spaces like Etsy and eBay make selling an easy artform, one-(wo)man shops are raking in the pounds by marrying the mass power of e-commerce and highly curated market spaces. “Black Culture Market’s philosophy is to encourage greater ownership not only through entrepreneurship but also taking ownership of one’s narrative, culture, and economic destiny,” explains Jen, founder of the fastgrowing Black Culture Market.
FOR THE CULTURE
Since its inception in 2018 during Black History Month, what was originally planned to be a one-off event has turned into a regular calendar feature celebrating African and Caribbean commerce and culture in London areas. “Creating space for business owners in our local community is crucial for boosting the economy. When we support small local businesses, we help create more local jobs and foster a stronger sense of belonging,” enthuses Jen. “When we shop locally, we invest in products that reflect our cultural identity, carrying a more meaningful message. This is another example of how supporting local businesses goes beyond just transactions – it’s a commitment to the well-being and resilience of our community. It promotes economic growth, strengthens community bonds, and adds cultural richness, making our locality a better place to live and thrive in.”
DISCOVER NEW BRANDS
According to sources, UK blackowned businesses grew in number by 38% between 2014 and 2019, and this number continues to grow. There are several factors at play. “Access to resources and support networks has improved over the years. Initiatives aimed at assisting Black entrepreneurs, such as mentorship programs, promotional and networking events, have provided valuable guidance and connections for black-owned businesses just starting out”, explains Jen. Some of our favourite beauty brands like Airfro, The Glowcery and Ashe London have benefitted from equity-free grants to launch and sustain their growing business. Then there’s side hustle culture. Ceo’s working a nine to five and attending market pop-ups is the norm. Paula Francis founder of SuperfoodLx frequently attends Black Culture Market whilst balancing her acting career. “It’s not easy juggling a busy acting schedule with a full-time business, but weekend pop-up markets
help me manage my time effectively,” Francis explains. “I enjoy meeting our customers and its a great opportunity to network with other entrepreneurs.”
ELEVATE YOUR SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
With high streets across the country dwindling, markets and pop-ups are a creative way to revamp how you shop. “Personally, I don’t always want to be behind a computer screen shopping for my foundation and hair creams,” says Spell Magazine editor Jemima Cousins. “It’s void of discovering hero products you might find on the off chance because someone recommends it or the packaging jumps out. For hair or make-up products, I like to feel it, smell it, shade match it IRL before purchasing too.”
This is part of the secret success to market mania – it brings back joy to discovering brands in a much more interactive way. You might not get next day delivery, but there’s a strong likelihood you’ll meet the inventors
and owners. You can gain one-onone expert advice and better insight into which products are best suited to your needs, alongside how to get the best out of them. “Attending markets has really helped my business come along way,” says Eni Salawu founder of Natural Jem. “Utilising socials and a website have been great, but nothing compares to connecting with your consumers where you have the opportunity to share the story behind your brand and consult to their needs.”
Jen adds, “We believe that markets have always been more than just places to buy goods; they’re about connecting with your community and its producers, essentially serving as the original social network. At Black Culture Market, offer an immersive shopping event and provide opportunities for vendors to offer samples and tasters of their products, ranging from nourishing skincare to flavourful rums.”
For more information, visit blackculturemarket.co.uk
SPELL MEETS Soundbites
DAVID AND BABATOPE
co-founders of men's skincare brand Daba
“Studies show black skin has a lower content of ceramides and water compared to other skin types. This means on average black skin is prone to losing more water and moisture. It’s essential you moisturise daily and wear sunscreen. Other ways to improve the appearance and texture of skin is to always eat a balanced diet and drink water.”
ZOE UKEMENAM founder of Kuvitz Kollection
ADE
AND ANTONIA OGUNSOLA founders of Okiki Skincare
"Some natural soaps may not produce as much lather as synthetic ones because they lack certain foaming agents. This doesn't necessarily indicate that the soap is ineffective. There are various reasons why a soap may not lather well. Natural soaps contain fewer foaming agents compared to commercial ones. Hard water can inhibit lathering, making it appear as though the soap isn't working, plus certain oils and fats used can affect how sudsy a bar of soap becomes."
Scan the QR code to read the full interviews
"My background is pharmaceutics, more specifically the pharmacy sector. Both are related to how chemicals interact with one another as well as on the human body. Pharmacy is more holistic, as it not only focuses on what a substance can do to the body, it looks at daily behaviour, root causes, environmental factors, ethnicity, lifestyle choice and routine. Hence, I derive a similar approach when it comes to my brand and role in the beauty industry."
WENDY BROBBEY founder of Aduwham
"The concept of Aduwham is simple yet innovative. I wanted to create candles that were not just beautiful but also had a deeper meaning. Each candle represents a famous African symbol, and the scent is carefully chosen to reflect the spirit of that symbol. For example, in our Fabric Edition, each candle tells a story about the diverse cultures of Africa, offering an experience that touches your senses and emotions. Each candle is a testament to the unique stories woven into the fabric of African culture, offering a sensory journey that resonates with the heart and soul."
