Meet the industry disruptor behind The Mane Clique
06 W ho to follow
Social media star accounts
08 Everything to need for a soft life
Find peace from the hustle and grind culture
10 T he edit
An exclusive showcase of The Feme Collection 2-in-1 Half Wig
14 25 top-rated products to shop right now
Hair and beauty launches on our radar
20 Dream girl
Spell meets Marisha Wallace
26 Spell loves
The product junkie page
28 Talon tales
Manicurist Ella Frances Gordon talks nail trends
30 Afro hair & pregnancy
Haircare tips for mums-to-be
34 Bioactive beauty
How to supercharge your regime
38 Empowering Entrepreneurs
Founders defining the future
42 Class ash
New ash tones from X-Pression
Pre-Stretched
EDITOR Jemima Cousins
WRITERS Jennifer Meredith and Keysha Davis
DESIGNER Rob Wheele
Marisha Wallace
38 Empowering Entrepreneurs
26 Spell Loves
20 Dream girl
42 Class ash
28 Talon Tales
06 Who to follow
SCOOP
Bulletin with all the industry goss!
THE MANE CLIQUE
Founder of a subscription service dedicated to sourcing 100% Virgin Hair, Tracey Nyemba shares why she is on a mission to elevate the hair shopping experience for black women around the world.
Interview
Overcoming hair shopping challenges and mastering your mane
One of the biggest challenges I’ve faced when shopping for hair is the lack of support and guidance. It’s hard to trust that the hair you’re buying will match what’s advertised, and often, there’s little help after the sale. If you’re not experienced, figuring out installation and styling can also feel overwhelming. That’s why I created The Mane Clique – a wig subscription box to take the stress out of hair shopping. We offer high-quality hair, all the essential products and tools, and exclusive expert tips to guide you every step of the way.
We know that in many traditional hair shops, black women can feel overlooked or misunderstood, so we created something different. It’s not just a wig subscription box; it’s like having your own personal hair shopper. Each box is fully personalised with highquality hair, products, and tools, and we include expert tips to help you learn and feel
confident. Beyond just the box, we treat every customer with care and respect, not only during the purchase but throughout the entire experience. Whether it’s through our free telephone consultations or access to the mane members lounge, we’re here to support and empower you every step of the way, making your hair shopping experience as easy and enjoyable as possible.
Our online quiz helps new customers figure out which wig subscription box is the best fit for them. It only takes a few minutes and asks a few easy questions about your hair wants, needs and preferences. Based on your answers, we recommend the box that matches what you’re looking for, making the whole decision process much easier and stress-free.
I think what makes subscriptions so attractive to consumers is the convenience and sense of discovery
they offer. People love the idea of having something curated for them and delivered straight to their door, especially when it comes to products like hair extensions, where it can sometimes be overwhelming to choose the right ones. Subscriptions remove the guesswork and makes shopping easier and streamlined.
Our virgin hair is naturally pure, meaning it hasn’t been chemically-treated or altered in any way. We use a gentle steaming process to achieve the desired texture, which helps maintain the integrity of the hair and its cuticles, ensuring it stays healthy, natural, and durable. While raw hair is popular and offers a high-end option, it can be expensive, and not all customers want to make that investment. We believe our high quality 100% virgin hair strikes the perfect balance between quality, durability, and affordability.
Spell Editor says...
In this issue we’ve made it a priority to put you in good stead for 2025. “Look good, feel good” may be a cliché, but honestly, it still rings true. So, when it comes to levelling up your hair and beauty game, we’ve got you covered from snatched half wigs from The Feme Collection (The edit, page 10) to 25 top-rated products to shop right now, page 14 – a must read! Whether you want to reshape your career or upgrade your values, we speak to some stellar influential women; from Olivier nominated American actress and cover star Marisha Wallace (Dream Girl, page 20) to heavy hitting businesswomen (Empowering Entrepreneurs, page 38). Happy reading!
Jemima Cousins, Editor @j.coenterprise
Untype salon launches braid classes
Kaz Kamwi’s Tambala bonnets debut
When Kaz Kamwi appeared on Love Island S7 she normalised wearing satin hair bonnets to the nation –thank you, sis. The launch of her label Tambala is for the bonnet babes, serving silky satin fabrics, reversible colours and sizes for all hair types –she’s made self-care truly universal. Prices start from £19.99
As part of its ‘healthy hair challenge’ for 2025, Southwark-based trichology clinic, Untype has launched its in-salon braiding classes. Tailored to beginners and intermediates, it teaches the technicalities of canerowing – hand positioning, parting and adding extensions. Sign up pronto as spaces go quickly. Visit untypeyourhair.com/events
David Oyelowo leads new offbeat comedy series
W hen your watchlist dries up it's always worth having a 'coming soon' back-up list on standby. Apple TV+ has unveiled a sneak peek at its new surrealist comedy, Government Cheese. Starring David Oyelowo, who also executive produces, the series follows the Chambers family in 1969 as they chase wild dreams amidst quirky chaos. With an ensemble cast and a mix of hilarity and heart, the ten-episode show kicks off on 16th April 2025.
meandsomebodyson
Zemirah Moffett knows a thing or two about love – and she’s sharing it with the world. Originally created as her personal "manifestation board", this account has blossomed into a lauded celebration of Black love – and we're here for it! Whether you're in love, looking for love, or just love love, this is your new go-to account, with swoonworthy couple goals, hilarious dating memes, and updates on real-life meetups hosted by Zemirah herself.
GBEMI
Alice Oluyitan and Antonia Kemi Omisesan are the sisters behind GBEMI, the ASOS-stocked fashion brand that’s all about bold prints and bright colours. Their tagline, "for the queens who wear dreams," says it all. Follow for outfit inspo that screams confidence, sneak peeks at new collections, and behind-the-scenes glimpses of their design process from sketches to runway-ready.
Taiba Akhuetie
Thought synthetic hair was just for styling? Taiba Akhuetie is here to prove us all wrong. The East London artist is turning braids into couture, furniture and whimsical art masterpieces. Designs so far include Fiorucci’s SS25 collection and five-metre wall hair constructions for London institutions. Follow for behind-the-scenes peeks at her intricate process, and proof that fashion and art know no limits.
WHO to follow
Jaded by the same old posts on the ‘Gram? Freshen up your feed with these follow-worthy accounts
Afro Hair Library
Professor A. M. Darke is not just an academic but a tech game-changer. As the founder of the Afro Hair Library, she’s creating space for better representation of Afro-textured hair in video games and animation. Her free resource, built by Black artists, lets users download game characters and hairstyles to bring more diversity into gaming. Follow for updates on her work and to learn how she’s changing the face of digital representation.
Ambrojah
Boston-based visual artist Ambrojah creates unapologetic, vibrant and deeply personal artworks celebrating women in all their forms. Her pieces champion self-love, sexual freedom and body positivity with bold strokes and captivating colours. Stick around for sneak peeks of her artwork, updates on workshops, and info on her popular sip-and-paint sessions. This is a dream space for art lovers and advocates for empowerment.
Girls Talk Corporation
Making moves in tech and finance is what Girls Talk Corporation does best. This powerhouse organisation is all about connecting black women and girls to opportunities in these booming industries. From high-profile summits supported by LinkedIn and HSBC to grassroots career panels, their events are as inspirational as they are practical. Follow for career advice, event updates and a supportive network that’s here to help you smash your goals.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED for a soft life
Time to trade double espressos and girl-bossing for early nights and aromatherapy
Living a soft life might just be the antidote to the rigours of hustle culture. While the term itself became a buzzword in autumn 2022 thanks to a group of influencers from Nigeria, the concept of a life centred around calmness and self-care feels deliciously timeless. These influencers sparked the trend as a response to the relentless pressures of the “girlboss” era and the grind of the 2010s. But let’s clear up a few misconceptions: the soft life isn’t about shirking responsibilities, quitting your job or avoiding the tough parts of life. At its heart, the lifestyle prioritises ease and peace, and in a way makes dealing with life’s challenges a little bit easier. So how do we sign up?
Adopting a soft life means building a good foundation of self-care and well-being. “It took me an entire year to harness a soft life,” says Spell Magazine editor Jemima Cousins. “But it’s all about buliding a disciplined routine that you can fall back on when times get tough. You’ll still have deadlines and hectic moments, but your environment and practices support a calmer, more balanced existence. That can be anything from an early night to learning to say ‘No’.”
In a society that sometimes feels like a neverending episode of Survivor, this mode is about giving yourself permission to simply slow down, breathe and take it all in. As Caeli K. first tweeted, the vibe is: “Unbothered. Moisturized. Happy. In My Lane. Focused. Flourishing.” Rather than glamorising non-stop productivity, this approach encourages you to listen to your needs, to rest without guilt, and to give yourself grace.
Here, we’ve compiled a soft life starter pack. Alongside a touch of commitment on your part, your essentials include an oil diffuser for its soothing aromatherapy benefits; a meditation app to help you unwind and regulate your stress levels; and a daily journal to encourage you to build mental clarity. It may sound a little “woowoo”, but these small, sustainable daily habits can add up to a better version of *you*, not just what looks good on Instagram.
Streamlined and classic, the new Feme Collection 2-in-1 Half Wig is made to morph!
Model is wearing Monique
“Half wigs bring on unparalleled versatility and style”
Model is wearing Zuri in colour
DR2/Bronze Brown in length
Model is wearing Amaya in colour
25 top-rated products to shop right now
Level up your hair and beauty regime with these worthy gamechangers we really, really rate
SPELL EDITOR APPROVED FOR 2025
1
Stylpro Hydro Exfoliator, £39.99
Beauty-tech brand Stylpro, founded by Tom Pellereau (winner of The Apprentice, 2011) has launched a slew of affordable (and clever) gadgets to address skin concerns. This nifty device satisfyingly removes dead skin cells using a combination of water and suction to draw out impurities lurking deep in the dermis – just like a Hydrafacial – to create a gratifying glow.
2
Überliss Bond Healing Spray, £15.50
Formulated by Dr Ali N. Syed who bought us Affirm and KeraCare, think of this leave-in as a souped up braid spray. When hair is locked in braids, spritz on every other day to maintain elasticity (crucial for length retention) and optimum moisture levels. The results… less shedding and zero dryness on take-out day.
3
Nars Afterglow Tempting Eyeshadow Palette, £52
The texture of Nars’ eyeshadows never disappoints, and this palette featuring a spectrum of orchid purples set to be the shade of the year, makes you feel like a kid in the candy store. The smooth mattes, high-shine shimmers, and reflective glitters are perfect for building and blending longlasting ethereal eyes.
4
Cantu Detangle Flexi Brush, £9.99
Upgrading your hairbrush is a must! Why? Because wear and tear can cause damage to delicate strands. Plus, the savvy designs on brushes are to be taken advantage of too. This one from Cantu, flexes and bends so product is distributed tip to root (yes, that’s the correct method curlistas) to form curl definition.
J&M Davidson
5 MAC Studio 24hr Luminous Lift Concealer, £26
Congratulations to MAC for nailing its concealer formula. It’s a real workhorse for transforming the undereye area: brightening, lifting, hydrating (with top-notched skin ingredients niacinamide, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid), these tweaks will make all the difference to your daily and goingout beat.
6 Cécred Restoring Hair & Edge Drops, £54
It’s no secret Beyoncé has the power to take our coins. With an edge drop just shy of 60 quid, the question is, is it worth it? Absolutely. Using toptier bioactive technology (see Bioactive Beauty page 34), this drops makes edge care less medicinal and more luxurious. Good bang for buck.
Too Faced Born This Way
7
Soft Matte Foundation, £38
Usually, brands have one hero product, but for cult cosmetic line Too Faced,
there’s too many to mention. The OG Born This Way foundation made a splash back in 2015, and to date has evangelical fans. But the newgen Soft Matte Foundation delivers pore-softening and texture-matching coverage that puts it in a welldeserved league of its own.
8 Noughty Let’s Bond Leave-in Treatment, £14.99
Love it or hate it, silicone imparts serious levels of shine. Now you can replicate the same effect minus the chemical compound with this cutely packaged strengthening treatment. Great for revitalising human hair extensions that need a pick-meup, smooth into the hair adding a generous amount to the ends before heat styling.
9
Glow For It Lash Growth Mascara, £23.99
This dual-action mascara will not only obtain longer, darker thicker lashes in one sweep, its main mission is to enhance growth over time by
coating lashes in a sea of vitamins and nutrients. Simply incorporate into your daily make-up routine to reap the rewards. If you don’t want to forego your glam, it can be used on lash extensions too.
10
4.5.6 Skin To Be Clear Resurfacing Exfoliate Mask, £45
Climbing the rankings as one of the best beauty brands for melanin skin, the star student of the year is the 3-in-1 exfoliating mask. Use as part of the 4.5.6 Skin system or standalone, to maintain a clear and well-balanced complexion for the next 365 days.
11 Ardell Brow Lamination, £19.99
Last year TikTok swayed us to indulge in brow makeovers. So here we are with this serious bit of kit. The four-step process is triple P certified – no pro needed, not pricey and thankfully painless. Results last up to five weeks and you’ll be amazed the difference it makes to your facial features. Bring on #selfiequeen.
12
Escentric Molecules
Molecule 01 + Black Tea, £125
A compelling combination of bitterfresh florals and aromatic black tea, this fragrance is mouth-wateringly good. The new M+ range is created by the perfume pros behind the cult-favourite Molecule 01, and quite frankly, can do no wrong. Consider this a trans-seasonal scent that smells divine on sun warmed skin as it does under cashmere jumpers.
13
with micro-sized peptides to penetrate the hair’s shaft to reform and rebuild the molecular structure, if your hair has had a hard time lately, this is what it needs. Instructions say leave in for one to two minutes which is unheard for a deep conditioning treatment.
Aveeno Oat Rich Balm, £15
16
Ghana Fresh Moringa Soap, £8
Utilising the humble Moringa plant, this premium handcrafted shea-based soap is a titan for treating inflammation. Founded and developed by Karl Yaw Dalian who wanted to find a natural solution to treat his son’s eczema, the superfood’s antimicrobial and antibacterial properties doesn’t take a sledgehammer approach. Instead, it calmingly hydrates and heals for better skin days.
14 Shark FlexFusion Straight 5-in-1 Air
Styler & Dryer & Ceramic Straightener, £369.99
Yes, it’s a steep price for styler but you’ll be hard pressed to find a better one. USP’s include a scalp shield mode designed to protect new growth from excessive heat, and the wet to dry fusion attachments are a healthier method for controlling heat on curly hair. Just think, no more drip-dry.
Deep moisturisation should never feel greasy, and if it does, it means the lipids are sitting on top of the skin. Thankfully Aveeno has mastered the art by developing a fastabsorbing face balm armed with a triple oat complex to soothe and relieve any tightness or flare-ups.
17
Osmo Essence Curl Enhancing Foam, £5.95
If you didn’t know already, Osmo has been churning out salon-quality products for 20 years. Now turning their expertise to curly hair, this weightless foam is one of many products adept at giving natural and synthetic hair flexible hold without that starchy feeling.
18 Neutrogena Clear & Defend Facial Wash, £6
For decades Neutrogena has earned its stripes as the kick-ass brand for acne. And yet, you don’t have to suffer from spots to reap the benefits of this gel consistency wash. Laden with skin-friendly acids, it blitzes away dead skin cells and gently tightens like a mini chemical peel – at a fraction of the price.
Melanin Multi-Use Pure Oil
If you’re making a concerted effort to go clean with your hair and beauty products, this imported plantbased oil is a strong place to start. Founded by US influencer Whitney White aka naptural85, the aptly named treatment doubles up as a hot oil treatment and super-charged body moisturiser.
20
The Feme Collection 2-in-1 Human Hair, from £63
At Spell we are the hair oracles, and this year’s prediction is half wigs will be entering a new chapter of popularity – see The Edit, page 12. Offering supreme versatility – can be worn up or down – this human hair offering from Feme ticks all the style boxes. With bobs being a major trend, we think it deserves a place on your wig stand.
21
No7 Bronze & Glow Multistick, £14.95
Our advice is not to sleep on No7. Ninety years deep in the make-up game, their new mission is to end make-up mishaps for women commuting. Part of the on-the-go essentials A-team is this creamy bronzing multistick, which gives a decent glimmer of the cheeks, eyes and even the lips.
22
I Am Divergent Sea Moss Gel, £24.99
The sea moss space is growing – and long may it continue – however this is a personal favourite. Hydrated with colloidal gold or silver
– which beats expensive lotions and potions for its potency and antiflammatory prowess – if you want to up your self-care this year, make this your first stop.
Debunking the idea teeth whitening is abrasive – you know, when smiling in the wind becomes sensitive – this 97% natural toothpaste is a panacea. The coconut flavour may be mild, but the fruit’s enzymes will give you a brighter smile in two weeks – or sooner.
24 Noma Sana Silk Tress Hair Straightener, £180
Lily Odogwu has made a seat for herself at the electrical haircare table by founding Noma Sana. Meaning ‘great’ in Swahili, the mane-changing straightener is specifically designed for type 3 and 4 hair. Knowing what women want when it comes to a flawless silk press, Odogwu has bought to the market a tool poised to keep the integrity of curly hair by having a top temperature of 180c and an in-built smoothing comb.
25 Shedid & Parrish Afro Butter, £38
Already scooping up awards for Best Textured Hair Product, this is a brand to watch – and invest in! If you’re a fan of the classic LOC method, the melt-in-your-hands butter is a good addition to revamping your routine. The blend of hair softening natural butters and oils penetrate the shaft for a rich conditioning experience.
Avlon
Sunny Isle (New Look)
Outre Perfect Hairline
X-Pression Pre-Stretched (New Ash Colours)
Outre X-Pression Lil Looks
Outre Swirlista
The Feme Collection 2-in-1
Dream girl
Having left behind the comfort and support of friends, family and a life and career in the USA to star on a West End stage, Marisha Wallace knows a thing or two about pursuing dreams. A last-minute call to fill in for Amber Riley in Dreamgirls saw her take a red-eye to London in 2017 and once she set foot on the tarmac, she never looked back. It was this move that launched the performer into stardom, landing her top billing in Waitress and Hairspray, and even a spot on Celebrity Big Brother. This year, the 39-year-old returns to London’s Adelphi Theatre for her biggest ever headline show, as well as taking the lead in stage classic Cabaret alongside BIlly Porter. Could 2025 be her most exciting year yet?
You might believe that Cabaret is simply a fun ode to the Jazz Age, with its triumphant tunes and flapper costumes, but that’s far from the truth. Set against the backdrop of pre-World War II Berlin, main character Sally Bowles (portrayed by
From playing an ensemble part as a tap-dancing egg, to starring in awardwinning box office hit Cabaret, Marisha Wallace is no longer waiting in the wings for her dream roles
Marisha) yearns for a life of glamour and decadence amidst growing political tension in the country. “There’s so much history associated with this musical, and I’ve also learned about black history in Nazi Germany," explains Wallace. “My character Sally is as layered as the storyline itself – tragic, ambitious, villainous, idealistic.”
Previously typecast in “sassy Black girl” roles (Wallace’s words), the West End star’s CV now lists a string of roles that performers of any background could only dream of filling, from Miss Adelaide in Guys and Dolls, to Ado Annie in Oklahoma!, both of which earned her nominations for the prestigious Olivier Award.
Between Cabaret rehearsals and planning her upcoming solo show setlist, Marisha takes a beat to talk to Spell about overcoming the limitations to being typecasted, life lessons from co-star Billy Porter, and caring for her natural hair off-stage,
Photography by Glenn Larkby Hair by Aycan Kemal and Aisha Ibrahim
Make-up by Natasha Wright
Styling by Simone Sylvester
Assisted by Lucy Wilcken
Art directing by Jemima Cousins
“SOMETIMES YOU MUST LEAVE WHERE YOU’RE COMFORTABLE TO FIND OUT WHERE YOU CAN BE YOUR TRUE SELF”
YOU’RE PLAYING SALLY BOWLES IN THE WEST END PRODUCTION CABARET. WHAT’S IT LIKE MORPHING INTO A SINGER WHO EMBODIES A HEDONISTIC SPIRIT?
The cool thing about it is that I just played Miss Adelaide, who is also a cabaret singer. She’s the good version, so now I get to play an evil twin. To play these iconic roles in the canon is such a great thing to do because I get to put my spin on them. And it brings out a part of me that people may have not seen before.
Sally’s very ambitious. She wants her career, but then she also wants love, and that’s what I always try to find in a character: the humanness. Everything comes with sacrifice. You want a career, but you have to sacrifice having a family, and that’s kind of what I’ve done myself. Sally’s situation is interesting, because she would rather perform on stage than leave Germany, where she could die.
YOU’RE STARRING ALONGSIDE THE ICON BILLY PORTER. WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNT FROM HIM ON AND OFF STAGE?
Billy and I have known each other for over 12 years. When I was on Broadway in Something Rotten, he was doing Kinky Boots at the theatre up the street. I used to throw barbecues in my backyard and invited performers from Broadway, and one day, I found Billy Porter in my living room eating a hotdog. We’ve been friends ever since, and got really close over the pandemic. Every time he comes to London, he sees my shows. To perform with him is amazing, as he’s someone we looked up to as young black artists in the community. Billy Porter was a beacon of light, because he was the first to break out and perform at this level. We knew him as ‘Broadway Billy’, and then when Pose came along, he became a Hollywood star.
I’ve watched the career risks he takes, and how he’s unabashedly himself, and that’s what I’ve learned from him. To
be yourself, and do things that others have never done before. To surprise people, and do it unapologetically.
YOU’VE TALKED BEFORE ABOUT THE STEREOTYPED ROLES FOR BLACK WOMEN IN AMERICAN THEATRE. CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT THOSE TYPICAL ROLES, AND DO THOSE SAME STEREOTYPES EXIST IN BRITISH THEATRE?
When I first started, the roles that were available to black women as the lead – the centre of the narrative, the one driving the story – I could count them on one hand. For me, being plus-sized and curvy with a big voice, it was always the random black girl singing soul on the side who would come out and do a big number, and the audience would never know her story. I wondered why we never got the opportunity to have a character who is fully three-dimensional and who has an arc. When I played Effie (in Dreamgirls), it really opened my eyes, and I wanted more roles like that. But in America, they don’t like to take those risks because it’s so expensive to produce a Broadway show. I even heard someone say that “black people don’t sell tickets.” That’s the racism we dealt with and had to accept.
When I came here, where there is more freedom and risk-taking in theatre because it’s subsidised. In the US I made my money off being a sassy black girl, which is fine, but there’s more to us than that. There’s more to women than that. I noticed it was not just black women that weren’t being fully realised; it was women’s roles in general. With Sally [Bowles], I’m digging through the text to find more layers to her, and, luckily, she already has a lot of layers built in. But then to add to that, with me being black and living in a time where racism is very prevalent in America, it raises the stakes. It makes you feel like we have something to lose, and we want to fight for it.
SUPPORTING STARS
Be Curly Intensive Curl Perfecting Masque, £48
"I love using a deep conditioning mask on my hair while it’s in a wig or in wig prep. I put this deep conditioner in, so when I wash it all out, it’s all nice and moisturised."
PERFECT HAIRLINE
Lace Wig, £32.99
"Boho braids are my go-to but when I need to give my hair a rest, a sexy blonde wig never fails to see me through not-so-fly hair days."
CAT CAFÉ
"I was not a believer of tea, but something about it calms you down, gets you back to ground zero, and then you can restart again."
AVEDA
DRAGON
Japanese Hojicha Tea, £10
IT’S BEEN NO SECRET THE LACK OF KNOWLEDGE IN THE BRITISH ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY ABOUT HOW TO STYLE AND CARE FOR TEXTURED (AFRO/CURLY) HAIR. WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR HAIR, WHAT HAS YOUR EXPERIENCE BEEN LIKE?
It has been one that has changed. Over the eight years, we have had to create a lot of initiatives to get more black hair stylists in the community. Many black hairstyles didn’t even know that there were jobs available in theatre. Even my own hairstylist, Michelle Sultan, who worked in TV and film, had never really done theatre. On photoshoots, I request her, because if I don’t, sometimes there’s not even someone qualified to do your hair.
Now, the theatres are being asked to provide training, because that’s been a point of contention in so many shows that I’ve done. When you’re on a show like Hairspray, where half the cast is black and there’s not one black person to do hair, that’s not okay. I raised a concern, because I think it’s so important to have diversity. It’s not about filling quotas, it’s about making sure we have people of all kinds in the space. It doesn’t exclude people; it adds. It enriches everyone’s knowledge, because if there are people around you from other cultures and other ways of thinking, you might learn something that you don’t know.
WHAT ARE YOUR HAIR OR BEAUTY GOALS FOR 2025?
I’ve been really focusing on skincare, because we wear so much make-up and it’s so easy to just wipe it off and not do my full night routine. Recently I’ve been dedicated to my routine, and everyone has been saying I look so young! It’s also a really nice time to just wind down and have a self-care moment, to be a little bit more mindful.
“WHEN YOU’RE ON A SHOW LIKE HAIRSPRAY, WHERE HALF THE CAST IS BLACK AND THERE’S NOT ONE BLACK PERSON TO DO HAIR, THAT’S NOT OKAY.”
your dreams. I didn’t have a backup plan. I didn’t have any support system here [in the UK]. I just had to find it for myself, and there was beauty in finding myself. When I said I wanted to be Sally [Bowles], I called my agent and she said, “let me sort this out”. There was no questioning it. So, sometimes you must leave where you’re comfortable to find out where you can be your true self.
WHAT’S YOUR SECRET TO STAYING COMFORTABLE IN THE SPOTLIGHT?
The confidence comes with time. I’ve performed on stage for 20-something years, and I still get nervous, but nerves are good. That means you care.When you don’t care, I think that’s when you lose your edge. I’m about to turn 40, and the comfortability that comes with time and age is amazing. I cared so much about what people thought about me; I tried to be a technically perfect singer, and that perfectionism is great to a point, but then when you get free and you can fly above the crowd, it’s almost like you lose yourself in the work. That’s when it feels the best.
For my hair, because I do wear a lot of wigs and weaves, I’m trying to focus on my natural hair care. So that means being more diligent about going to the salon and getting my treatments and trims. I’ve stopped colouring my hair as much, because I’ve been trying to let my natural hair have a break, grow back out and find my natural curl.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WHO’S THINKING ABOUT MOVING COUNTRY FOR THEIR CAREER?
I would say go for it; I feel like we don’t get much time on this planet. The world is so different now, that it doesn’t really matter where you live. You don’t have to be relegated to your hometown. Coming out of your comfort zone will push you to follow
I’ve been on a fitness journey, and that really changed it for me, because I think I didn’t realise how much your body is an instrument, and the more you’re in tune with this instrument, the easier it is for you to show it to people. Getting physically strong helped me be mentally strong enough to go out in front of thousands of people, and sometimes millions of people. When I did Celebrity Big Brother, that was amazing for my confidence, because now people have seen me from every angle – flattering, unflattering, a roll here or there – and I just didn’t care. I'm in a space here I want to live my life and do it for the people who love me and who get me. My cause is to make sure that people who are looking up to me are inspired.
spell loves
FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE
Mushroom coloured manes, billowing bows and mindful energy drinks have us falling in lurve
TAKE A BOW
The obsession for bows started this time last year – do you remember Jodie Turner-Smith’s no pants, giant bow red carpet look? The hyper feminine detail continues to pop up on the fashion scene, and if you didn’t jump on board last year, now’s the time to take a bow. You can keep it small and cutesy or go all out with a statement piece.
MONSOON
CLINK, CLINK
Kin Euphorics is rewriting the rulebook on energy drinks. Taking a mindful approach to elevating everyday wellbeing, the delicious flavours are rooted in Ayurvedic medicine, and therefore, come packed with all the hot-right-now natural ingredients – reishi mushroom, turmeric, 5 HTP. We say, if you struggle to make smoothies in the morning or on the hunt for nonalcoholic substitutes, this is the solution. Clean girl living for the win!
One-time purchase pack of 8, £33, or receive 10 per cent off when you subscribe
The innovation in bond treatments means maintaining natural coloured hair is possible. It also means you can dabble in a kaleidoscope of popular shade trends, like mushroom mania. The taupetoned brown is an evolution to the amber copper tones popularised by US rapper Ice Spice. It can be worn on a cool and warm spectrum, but be sure to always factor in your skin tone when deciding.
ENTER THE COSMOS
Achieve your purr-fect mystical mani aka the “Cat Eye Effect” with Mylee’s DIY collection The Alchemy Cat Eye Gel Polish, £9.99. T hese gel polishes deliver magnetic pigments that create a multidimensional, and pretty hypnotic, effect to any mani, lasting up to three weeks. With a quick wave of a special Mylee Magnet, £7, transform your nails into shimmering works of art!
INSIDE SCOOP
Rihanna is so real when it comes to sharing her Fenty Beauty tips, and we love her for it. For the newly launched You Mist Makeup Extending Setting Spray (£28), Riri reveals she likes to spray around the face (so not directly on) to set her favourite Soft’Lit Naturally Luminous Foundation evenly. “I wanted to make a setting spray that really locks in your make-up but moves with you.” Alexa play, Work
Hair by Naomi Brookes at The Hair
Talon tales
Session manicurist Ella Frances Gordon talks all things nails
HOT RIGHT NOW
WHAT’S HOT AND NOT WHEN IT COMES TO NAILS IN 2025?
I’ve seen the rise in blooming gel nails; this is something I’ve been anticipating for at least two years. But now the designs are more elaborate. I don’t think there are any “nots” when it comes to nail art, as it’s a way to express your personal creativity.
ABSTRACT NAILS
IN YOUR OPINION, WHICH NAIL TREND DOESN’T GET ENOUGH APPRECIATION?
I’d say abstract nails. A lot of the time people want a symmetrical set, but in my opinion, I think that nail art looks better when they are all different but have a similar style. Sometimes a simple line and squiggles going in different directions can really make an impact to the finished look.
PRESS ON NAILS
WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS FOR PROLONGING THE LIFE OF PRESS-ONS?
I think press-on nails are great, especially if you work a job where you’re not allowed to have your nails done. It’s also a great way to switch up your nail look. Nail tabs really help to prolong the life of press-on nails; if you use glue, it is best to not use a large amount, as you may struggle taking them off and have to result in soaking them off, which would defeat the purpose.
3D NAILS
3D NAILS ARE IN HIGH DEMAND RIGHT NOW. ON AVERAGE, HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CREATE A 3D NAIL DESIGN?
It depends on the 3D nail design. Personally for me, after the application is done, it can take anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours.
LONG NAILS
FEMALE RAPPERS LIKE CARDI B, NICKI MINAJ, AND MEGAN THEE STALLION SWEAR BY EXTRA-LONG NAILS. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS TREND?
I’m loving long nails at the moment, and I think it’s good to have a representation of people that live lives with long nails. I recently did my own nails with long gel extensions, and I was actually disappointed when I realised they’re not long enough.
NATURAL NAIL
WHAT’S YOUR BEST ADVICE FOR CARING FOR NATURAL NAILS UNDERNEATH ACRYLICS?
I only provide gel services, but the advice I would give is to oil your cuticles regularly and always have hand cream with you. Get regular infills, and most importantly, DO NOT pick or bite your nail extensions off! Go for a removal or soak them off yourself. I know it can be hard but try and find another outlet to release the energy.
& pregnancyAFRo HAIR
Achieve and maintain optimum hair health
Having a baby is one of life’s precious life events. But there is no doubt it puts your body through a raft of changes. One that tops the list is the transformation of hair; from exponential hair growth in the first trimester to hair loss and thinning in the postpartum stage, the rollercoaster ride can leave many feeling bewildered. “I’m a mum of five beautiful girls ranging from ages 11 years old to 9 months old. In every one of my pregnancies my experience was different, with two of my postpartum ending up with hair loss,” says celebrity hairstylist Molecia Seasay.
Early pregnancy
So, let’s start from the beginning. During early pregnancy the likelihood is hair follicles will flourish. As your body is flooded with pregnancy hormones (oestrogen), you are likely to experience growth. Approximately 15 weeks in, strands appear thick and lustrous, appearing not only on the head, but sprouting in unwanted areas including the face, arms and chest.
There are exceptions to the rule whereby some experience the opposite. The hair becomes finer and vulnerable to shedding due to a depletion of vital hormones. “The shift in hormonal levels in the early pregnancy stages and an increase in stress to the body to support the newly growing baby, can cause an increase in hair shedding,” explains Eva Proudman, resident trichologist for Absolute Collagen. “This is a condition called telogen effluvium and is a disruption to the hair growing and shedding cycle. It does not cause permanent hair loss but will make the hair feel thinner all over, especially to the longer lengths. Other factors in the first trimester that can cause an increase in hair shedding are the effects of morning sickness and an inability to eat a wellbalanced diet in those first few months.”
The heightened awareness for what you consume and what the body absorbs becomes paramount. This extends to your hair too: what products are you using? Do they contain harmful ingredients? Can you continue to dye, relax or texturise your hair? The advice is non-conclusive. Some professionals claim using ammonia-free hair dyes or relaxing the hair three to four
WHAT THE TRIcHologIsTs sAy
“To maintain a normal growth cycle, eat a healthy, balanced diet with plenty of protein and iron rich foods. The Absolute Collagen Supplement contains eight grams of protein and vitamin C to support the absorption of iron.”
Eva
Proudman,
Absolute Collagen resident trichologist
“Elevated estrogen levels often lead to thicker, more lustrous hair, extending the growth phase and reducing shedding. However, the increase in progesterone can also affect the hair follicles, potentially altering the hair’s texture and growth pattern. Postpartum hair loss is a temporary condition that usually resolves on its own within a few months. Be patient and give your hair time to regrow.”
Lorna Jones, Care for Hair trichologist
“Sourcing pregnancy-safe hair products can be difficult and confusing. While pregnant avoid these ingredients: salicylate, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, tartaric acid and chemical sunscreen. These can be re-introduced postpartum.”
Samantha Stewart, trichologist at The Spencer Clinic
times during pregnancy will not have any negative effects on the baby. Kelly Simpkin-Clarke, hairdresser, mother of two, and creator of WeTwo suggests erring on the side of caution. “As a baby develops in the womb or during breastfeeding, they are exposed to the substances present in the mother’s bloodstream, including any potentially harmful chemicals. Safe haircare products ensure that the baby is not exposed to unnecessary risks during these crucial stages of development.”
Mid to late pregnancy
As pregnancy progresses and you head towards the second trimester, you’ll find that your body begins to adjust, and your hormones settle accordingly. As for your mane? Provided that you maintain a balanced diet and you don’t contract a pregnancyrelated condition i.e. iron deficiency, gestational diabetes or high blood pressure, you should find that your hair will retain a healthy balance. “Typically, from the second trimester hair can remain in the growing phase. Hair shedding tends to slow down leading to a feeling of thicker fuller hair, which is all part of the pregnancy glow,” says Proudman.
It’s during this phase expectant mums begin to think about hairstyles that offer practicality and convenience. Angela Stevens, celebrity hairstylist and cocreator of Cantu’s Protective Styles by Angela, candidly shares the realities of juggling pregnancy and motherhood while trying to cultivate a solid haircare regimen. “This is a marathon not a sprint so the lessons come at every turn. My best advice is rest when you can and do what you can, everything else can wait. When it comes to your hair, try not to get
styles that take a long time to install or take out. You don’t want to be in a compromising position when it comes to the time for delivery. Once you are closer to term, I highly recommend a protective style like braids, twists or a weave to make it easier to manage dayto-day. Hydrating your hair and scalp is important because the baby is soaking up nutrients from the body, and your scalp is the last place to receive the nourishment. I recommend applying Cantu Protective Styles Daily Oil Drops as part of your daily scalp ritual.”
Postpartum haircare
With all the care going to the newborn, it’s typical (and very understandable) for new mums to not be cognizant of what’s happening with their hair until weeks or even months down the line. The spike in oestrogen hormones from the first trimester will begin to taper off triggering shedding, hair loss, and dry, brittle strands.
“Postpartum occurs four months after having a baby causing an increase in hair shedding,” explains Proudman.
“This is due to several factors like the hormonal drop in oestrogen, lower iron levels and poor quality sleep. The hair strands require more ferritin (protein) than usual to compensate for the change in hormonal levels. The body is good at managing hair shedding and usually within six to nine months the shedding stops, and the growth cycle returns to normal.”
It’s during this phase new mums are advised to up the ante in haircare. Of course, lack of time is a huge factor, so fuss-free hair solutions are your go-to. “After I had my son, the easiest style for me was a low sleek ponytail,” explains Stevens. “I would use my Cantu Braid & Twist Gel daily and smooth my hairline because that was all I could manage for quite some time. It is made with marula oil and aloe vera which helps to soften and slick the hair so there’s no tension. Shedding post-delivery requires low manipulation hairstyles to reduce breakage, especially on delicate areas like the hairline. Also, hair loss is totally common from breastfeeding and the hair will usually grow back.”
If you are still concerned about your hair shedding nine months after postpartum, seek a consultation with a certified trichologist.
brands TO BOOKMARK
Make postpartum beauty and body care a priority too with the these treatments
MBH
Perineal Balm, £16.95
Primark
Postpartum HAIR PRoDUc T s FoR TEAM MUM
CANTU
Biotin-Infused Hair & Scalp Oil, £9
Coming in at 59ml, this bottle is small but mighty. Made with 99% naturally derived ingredients – including this year’s hair growth star rosemary – it can be incorporated into your routine at any stage. If you find your scalp becomes exacerbated with dryness or you’re experiencing thin edges postpartum, this is worth a try.
CRÈME OF NATURE
Apply Cider Vinegar Clarifying Rinse, £9.99
Opted for a protective style? Or just like your hair feeling squeaky clean? Give this ACV rinse a go. The squeezy cone nozzle makes targeting the scalp easier to achieve an invigorated cleanse. Free of sulfates, silicones and petrolatum; it’s so gentle it retains the hair’s natural moisture and can be used on a weekly basis.
WETWO
Post-Pregnancy Conditioner, £26
Using products developed for the needs of shedding during postpartum not only offers a solution but reassurance. This conditioner is filled with a roster of B vitamins beneficial for all textures. If you notice changes in your curl pattern or an increase in hair fall, rather than doing an overhaul, introduce one thing at a time to monitor results.
RUWA
3x Water Wave, from £10.99
A high-end remake of the much-loved water wave texture, this version from Ruwa is made with Aquatex fibre to repel water for a faster dry time. Conducive for crotchet installation, it can help minimise manipulation and excessive tension at a time when your hair is the least of your concerns.
AVEDA
Be Curly Advanced Coil Definer Gel, £28
Aveda’s commitment to using organic plant-based ingredients makes it a frontrunner for clean postpartum hair care. If you’re unfamiliar with their products, this texture enhancing gel is an entry into how conditioning the stylers are.
HECTOR’S GLOBAL HAIR WITH ZEAL
Biotin Gummies, £30
Formulated by award-winning hairdresser Hector Obeng, these vegan-friendly gummies contain the precise balance of biotin (B7) and other essential vitamins to maintain healthy hair for new mums. Take one gummy daily to prevent or stabilise thinning.
THE SILK COLLECTION
Silk Hair Wrap, £40
If you’ve ummed and ahhed about investing in a silk wrap, now’s the time to take the plunge. Add an extra layer of protection against hairmares with this stylish turban made from 100% mulberry silk.
Unsplash: Olamide Gabriel
Bioactive beauty
Fusing science and nature, find out what these supercharged hair and beauty products can do for you
As the fields of medicine, food and engineering move into a new era with the advancement of biotechtechnology that utilises biological systems, living organisms or parts of them, to develop different productsso too does the field of cosmetics.
Biotechnology is nothing new. In fact, baking bread using yeast (an example of a living organism) is one of the oldest ways in which we, as humans, have utilised biotech to enrich our lives. However, whether you consider yourself a sourdoughbaking cottagecore queen, products containing bioactives are likely to find an avenue into your life over the next few years. They may have even graced your bathroom shelf already without you realising. Take fermentation, the recent skincare craze hailing from Japan. Much like yeast, some of the most popular skincare ingredients on the market are fermented, such as rice water, soybeans and chicory root. These ingredients have appeared in cult products like Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Wash Primer (£23) designed to protect the hair’s natural moisture barrier using pre-biotic compounds aka good bacteria. Paula’s Choice Earth Sourced Moisturizer (£35), contains a balance of bioferment nutrients to strengthen the lipid barrier (that helps keep the skin’s moisture in, and dirt and microbes out). The desired result is a boost in antioxidants and reduced inflammation.
But it’s not just about fermentation. Another bioactive you should get to know is the humble mushroom. That’s right – the slimy brown things you’d usually leave on your plate at the end of a full English breakfast, is revolutionising the wellness game. When it comes to skin care you might already be familiar with the trendiest types: lion’s mane, cordyceps and reishi, to name just a few. These mushrooms have adaptogenic qualities, which have been adopted by cosmetics companies for their ability to calm sensitive skin, protect against environmental stressors and reverse signs of ageing. Origins’ MegaMushroom Skin Relief Face Cleanser (£32) is a must-have for those with sensitive, spot-prone skin, while Briogeo Color Me Brilliant Mushroom + Bamboo Shampoo (£30) features a blend of turkey tail mushroom and has received rave reviews for bringing flagging hair colour back to life.
While fermentation and adaptogens largely fall under the umbrella of “white biotechnology”, the use of marine organisms, such as algae, seaweed and fish cells are classed as “blue biotechnology”. Many
skincare gurus swear by hydrolysed marine collagen, which is usually available in capsule or powder form, á la Wild Nutrition’s Collagen 500 Plus (£35). It’s a powerhouse for the hair and nails, boosting growth and strengthening cells, but its most visible benefits relate to the skin – keeping it plump and glowing! If you prefer the plant-based route, try looking for products with red algae, like The Ordinary’s Marine Hyaluronics (£8.80). This ingredient is primarily used to thicken formulas but also has the ability to help skin retain water, as well as boosting the power of other ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid.
Bioactives aren’t just associated with skin and haircare products – makeup lovers can also get in on the action with foundations and other cosmetics that act like skincare. Haus Labs has not been shy about differentiating itself from competitors with its science-backed formulas. Its Triclone™ Skin Tech Hydrating Concealer (£27) centres around a combination of fermented arnica (a plant in the sunflower family), bio-engineered antioxidants, and a
“BIOTECHNOLOGY IS NOTHING NEW… WE, AS HUMANS, HAVE UTILISED BIOTECH TO ENRICH OUR LIVES.”
BEAUTY TRENDS
Unsplash: Olamide Gabriel
CURLSMITH
Super Slip Pre-Wash Primer, £23
PAULA’S CHOICE
Earth Sourced
Moisturizer, £35
ORIGINS
Mega-Mushroom Skin
Relief Face Cleanser, £32
WILD NUTRITION
Collagen
500 Plus, £35
blend of medicinal herbs. What does that mean for us non-tech-literate?
Protection from environmental stress, and faster healing from spots and inflammation. Along the same vein, Shiseido’s Synchro Skin SelfRefreshing Custom Finish Powder Foundation (£46) boasts the benefits of wild thyme, a plant known for its polyphenols (micronutrients that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties), while Ilia Beauty’s Color Block Lipstick (£28) contains rosemary leaf extract, which can improve elasticity and strengthen the skin barrier. Who knew herbs could serve good face?
Now that you’re geared for an entire beauty bag revamp, are there any
THE ORDINARY
Marine Hyaluronics, £8.80
BRIOGEO
Color Me Brilliant Mushroom + Bamboo Shampoo, £30
bioactives you shouldn’t mix? Some ingredients don’t pair well, so if you’re layering make-up over skincare, and both contain bioactives, here are some combinations you should avoid.
RETINOL AND ALPHA HYDROXY ACID (AHAS)
While both of these bioactive ingredients are favoured for their anti-ageing properties, pairing them together can result in skin irritation due to their exfoliating effects. This is especially true if you are using highstrength formulas. Either stick to one or the other, or alternate ingredients every other day.
SALICYLIC ACID AND BENZOYL PEROXIDE
SHISEIDO
Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing
Custom Finish Powder Foundation. £46
HAUS LABS
Triclone™ Skin
Tech Hydrating Concealer, £27
ILIA Color Block Lipstick, £28
These ingredients are two of the most popular for non-prescription acne treatments, with salicylic acid used as an exfoliant and benzoyl peroxide used for combating acne-causing bacteria. However, you may notice that they never appear together in one product. This is because they can increase the risk of skin irritation when used together.
VITAMIN C AND RETINOL
Because these ingredients work optimally at different pH levels, using them together can make them both less effective. That being said, they can exist within the same skincare routine – just use vitamin C in the morning, and retinol at night.
Empowering entrepreneurs
Defining the future
Meet visionary women rising above challenges and setting new standards for success
Judy Koloko CEO & founder, The Steam Bar
THE STEAM BAR AKA THE SANCTUARY (LOCATED IN SELFRIDGES) IS TOUTED AS THE FIRST TEXTURED HAIR SALON WITHIN A DEPARTMENT STORE IN EUROPE. WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU FACE IN BRINGING THIS VISION TO LIFE?
Sometimes I wake up and I think about what possessed me to go down this road, but that feeling never lasts long because I understand that this work is needed and it’s bigger than me.
One of the first major challenges was fundraising. I knew from the beginning what elements The Steam Bar had to have in play to make it stand out and be effective and those were going to be costly. I’ve had conversations with department stores where they say
they’ve got one black haircare brand and they’re not able to bring in more because they’re struggling to attract the textured hair consumer as it is. I’ve been told a myriad of reasons as to why The Steam Bar or black hair products don’t work in their space and it’s totally understandable. I don’t take offense; I just moved on until I found retail partners who got it and were as excited about it as I am and were willing to work with me to make it work.
There are so many trials and tribulations; things that you could not even imagine that come into play, but I choose to just keep digging and going, as it’s about me creating something that’s setting the standards for where the black hair care industry needs to go. So even though it is trying at times and sometimes I really do feel like God is testing me, ultimately I know what we’re going to create and when we come out the other end we will do nothing but feel extremely proud of what we have achieved.
Beverley and Jayne
CEO & founders, Afrique Vodka
FEMALE ENTREPRENEURS ARE INCREASINGLY ENTERING THE ALCOHOLIC DRINKS INDUSTRY. WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES THIS SPACE ATTRACTIVE FOR WOMEN IN BUSINESS?
One of the biggest draws for women is the fact that the alcoholic drinks industry has traditionally been maledominated. This alone makes it incredibly enticing for women eager to break barriers and change the game, which also drives us to succeed.
By stepping into this industry, women can challenge the status quo and bring fresh perspectives that have been missing for far too long. The opportunity to shake things up and create authentic brands like Afrique Vodka, which reflect unique stories, is truly empowering. Plus, with growing consumer demand for diversity and innovation, now is the perfect time for women to showcase their creativity and cultural heritage.
We also love how collaboration and mentorship among female entrepreneurs are becoming the norm. So, if you’re thinking of making a career change seek help and advice from someone already in it. This supportive environment encourages women to take bold steps and fosters
a sense of mutual support that makes navigating this dynamic industry even more exciting. For us, being part of transforming a traditionally male arena into a diverse and inclusive space is one of the most rewarding aspects of this journey.
Women bring unique perspectives to every industry, but particularly in the alcoholic drinks sector. Our emphasis on storytelling and authenticity allows us to create genuine connections with consumers who seek relatable brands.
We also prioritise collaboration and community-building, fostering relationships that lead to innovative partnerships. Additionally, women often focus on sustainability and healthconscious options, reshaping product offerings to meet evolving consumer preferences. By infusing creativity and empathy into our work, we’re driving fresh ideas, redefining branding strategies, and creating diverse products that reflect a broader range of tastes and experiences.
Noelly Michoux CEO & co-founder, 4.5.6 Skin
MANY CONSUMERS FEEL THAT INCLUSIVITY IN THE SKINCARE INDUSTRY STOPS AT MARKETING, WITH PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND TESTING NOT EXTENDING TO BLACK AND BROWN SKIN. WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST OBSTACLES YOU SEE IN ACHIEVING TRUE INCLUSIVITY IN SKINCARE?
The primary obstacle is legitimising the structural and functional differences among various skin phototypes. The beauty industry predominantly operates on a mass-market, one-size-fits-all model. Recognising that darker skin has different needs requires a complete 360-degree mindset shift. Implementing these differences in R&D and testing demands investments that mainstream brands are not prepared to make.
Marina Camu CEO & founder, Mélasun
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE MÉLASUN, AND WHY D ID YOU CHOOSE TO FOCUS SPECIFICALLY ON SUNCARE FOR MELANIN-RICH SKIN?
I started my career in France with respected companies such as Procter & Gamble and Philips before moving to London. In my most recent roles, I contributed significantly to wellknown brands like Revolution Beauty and beauty incubator MAESA. I have extensive expertise in supply planning, production management and logistics, becoming an operation global director for Europe and Emirates regions. Having a seat at the strategic table, I had opportunities to reflect on gaps within the beauty industry. I quickly realised the structure of most big companies couldn’t support and reach unheard consumers easily especially black communities, plus leverage growth and innovation for products focused on rich melanin skins. These conversations led to growing frustration. I was deeply unhappy and fought aggressively everyday my peers over and over
Moreover, the incentive for change remains low because performative inclusivity works. Testing for active ingredients is conducted on Caucasian or East Asian individuals most of the time, with little data validating efficacy on melanated skin. Yet, melanated skin is targeted in marketing campaigns, women of colour see themselves in mainstream ads and respond with purchase and support.
The industry thus has minimal incentive to do more, and the data backs it up. A 2022 McKinsey report found that 75% of black beauty consumers can be persuaded to purchase products by ads featuring various skin tones across all races. However, black-founded brands capture only 18% of black consumers’ beauty spending. The lack of proven success impacts how much investment these brands can attract, limiting their ability
to scale marketing and achieve the financial success needed to invest in more research. It’s a vicious cycle.
on everything concerning sales and operation. I reckon my anger was rooted in the deep desire to lead my own organisation and my passion for change.
While collecting data, I quickly realised the suncare space was just boring and lacked the ability to respond to the needs of people of colour. Especially when it came to lifestyle changes. For example, 50 years ago, in certain
parts of the world it was inappropriate for women to workout or expose herself for long hours in the sun. Their granddaughters can do all of that now and the industry responds to her needs but have left behind a generation who lack the knowledge and education. There was a huge opportunity to change the status quo and create something which inspires all people. And that’s exactly what I’ve done with Mélasun.
ashCLASS
Add a touch of luxe with the new X-Pression Pre-Stretched Ash
and Ash Brown
Blonde
Photography by Why J Miller. Hair by Aisha Ibrahim.
Art directing by Jemima Cousins
LITTLEBLACK
BEAUTY
4.5.6 SKIN 456skin.com
ARDELL superdrug.com
AVEENO boots.com
BIOMED amazon.co.uk
ESCENTRIC MOLECULES cultbeauty.co.uk
GLOW FOR IT glowforitshop.com
HAUS LABS sephora.co.uk
I AM DIVERGENT iamdivergent.org
ILAPOTHECARY ilapothecary.co.uk
JO MALONE jomalone.co.uk
LIHA lihabeauty.com
LOTTIE LONDON superdrug.com
MAC COSMETICS maccosmetics.co.uk
MBH mumbubhub.co.uk
MELASUN coming soon
NARS COSMETICS narscosmetics.co.uk
NEUTROGENA boots.com
ORGANYC organyc.uk
ORIGINS origins.co.uk
PAULA’S CHOICE cultbeauty.co.uk
SHISEIDO shiseido.co.uk
THE ORDINARY theordinary.com
THIS WORKS spacenk.com
TOO FACED toofaced.co.uk
WELEDA weleda.co.uk
HAIR
AVEDA aveda.co.uk
BRIOGEO boots.com
CANTU boots.com
CÉCRED cecred.com
CRÈME OF NATURE amazon.co.uk
CURLSMITH boots.com
HECTOR’S GLOBAL HAIR WITH ZEAL hectorsglobalhair.com
