Sports + Travel Hong Kong Dec Jan 2014/15 by Sports+Travel Sports+Travel

DEC - JAN 2014/15 ISSUE 40

©Taiwan Tourism Bureau

08 16 20

©Christmas Island Tourism Association

©Tourism Australia

©Visit Greenland

More Then Hikes

Great White

Avenue Of The Volcanoes

Peaks And Dips

Walk In The Parks

©Gunther Deichmann

EXPLORING GREENLAND

TAIWAN'S MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES

On Top Of Down Under: AUSTRALIA'S MOUNTAINS

Under The Sea

CLIMBING IN ECUADOR

SOUTH KOREA'S GANGWON PROVINCE

DIVING CHRISTMAS ISLAND THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

REGULARS 05

Publisher's Note

Travel Tips

Travel News

Gear Guide

Publisher's Note

Dear Fellow Travellers, This issue, we’re returning to one of our alltime favourite themes – Mountains! From easy climbs to soaring summits, mountains have an undeniable allure for any adventure-traveller. We start with our story on climbing across Taiwan’s mountainous spine. Mountain adventures which requires hiking, cycling and river tracing. More mountains can be found in our Snapshots – this time, it’s all about Australia’s top mountain spots. Then we will move on to our story on Greenland. While it’s not your typical mountain destination, its summits are just the start, alongside dog sledding, skiing, kayaking, glaciers, icebergs, Inuit culture and Arctic wildlife all rolled into one massive adventure. We also explore four of Ecuador’s best climbs, all easily accessible from Quito, and in one case,

conveniently via the world’s second-highest cable car.

the country’s most famous mountain hikes, and the 2018 Winter Olympics.

home of the country’s most famous mountain hikes, and the site of the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympics. Finally, we explore one of the world’s great hiking routes – America’s epic Appalachian Trail. Crossing 14 states along its 3,500km length, it’s as much about mountains as it is about simply making the journey. Until then, Happy Trails! Sports+Travel Ltd

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While it manages to pack in a high population density for its size, Taiwan’s mountainous spine – which stretches from the north all the way to the south and lined with more than 200 mountains over 3,000m high – remains unpopulated and relatively undeveloped. Climbing and hiking remain the best and most popular ways to see these mountains, but they are by no means the only ways to enjoy them. You can try river tracing through

mountain streams, cycle up and down undulating singletracks, go birdwatching in the forests, or take a leisurely train ride up narrow gauge railways. No matter what activity you choose to partake, there’s always something extra to reward your efforts – you may spot a rare bird, stumble upon a friendly aboriginal village, or even yourself in the mountains. HSINCHU MIAOLI

TAIPEI YILAN

TAICHUNG CHANGHUA NANTOU

HUALIEN

CHIAYI TAINAN KAOHSIUNG

TAITUNG Nenggao West Line © John Hardwich / InMotion Asia

PINGTUNG

PHOTOS COURTESY Taiwan Tourism Bureau

TAIWAN'S MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES

RIVER TRACING Also known as 'canyoning' or 'canyoneering' in other parts of the world, Taiwan's river tracing involves following mountain streams upriver while wading, climbing, swimming or sliding over obstacles along the way. There are many areas in Taiwan where you can book a river tracing tour, provided that you're a competent swimmer and aren't afraid of heights. The Golden Grotto, Hualien Situated close to the village of Pratan (Sanzhan) in Hualien county, the Golden Grotto is a beautiful natural rocky cave with a crystal-clear pool fed by a series of waterfalls. Early birds will be rewarded with the 'golden' effect – between 10.30am and 12.30pm – when the sun passes directly overhead. The grotto is relatively easy to access with 3-4 hours of river tracing from Pratan – it’s a scenic river surrounded by colourful rocks in hues of blue, red, green and yellow. You'll need to wade through the river (waist-deep in some portions), climb tiers of rock pools and descend waterfalls by rope. A swim across the main grotto gives you access to some caves.

Not far from Hualien city and Taroko Gorge National Park, you can pick up some free river gear (and hire a guide) from the Visitor Center in Pratan. Allow about 7 hours for a return trip, although there are accommodation options in the village. Wulai, Taipei Located a few kilometres north of Wulai, the Jiajiuliao River is probably the best-known river tracing destination close to Taipei. The draw here is that it's an easy spot to practise the sport; it features rock pools, waterfalls (both natural and manmade) and natural water slides which can be done without much protection. There are a couple of routes for river tracing at the base between Gaoyaoshan and Xiangtianshuan, which take between 1 and 3 hours of river activity. You have the option of following the river up and taking a hiking trail back, or vice versa. Jiajiuliao is easily accessible from Wulai (a stronghold of the Atayal aboriginal tribe), which is a haven of hiking trails, waterfalls and hot springs. River tracing shoes are essential, and you can get them from any re usually available from Taipei.

Wulai

It’s no secret that the Taiwanese love cycling. And with plenty of motorable roads and singletracks that weave through the mountains, it’s not dif to suit your level wherever you are in Taiwan.

An area steeped in aboriginal history, the Southern Jungyang Mountain Range features some rugged trails that take you through the strongholds of the Paiwan and Rukai tribes with their traditional stone-slab houses and wood carvings.

Route 20, Yushan Traversing Taiwan’s mountainous spine near Yushan, the Southern Cross Highway (or Route 20) connects Tainan to Taitung. Cyclists get to explore Yushan’s southern slopes with its big climbs, and huge descents. MTB riders can experience plenty of different terrains (from singletrack to tarmac) with lots of backcountry riding while road bikers can stick to the main highway. Views of Yushan

Paiwan woman

The trail passes soaring old-growth cypress forests at Kuaigu (Cypress Valley), gushing waterfalls and soaring suspension bridges. Highlights include an overnight at a Bunun aboriginal village (in Meishan) and hot springs at the end of the ride to soak your muscles. Southern Jungyang Mountain Range, Pingtung

Zhuilu Old Trail

Cycling on a mixture of tarmac and off-road terrain, the steep roadside drop-offs are framed by waterfalls at almost every turn. The off-road trails take you into the cool mountainous forest of Mt. Dawu, which is frequently shrouded in mist, before a long descent to the western plains. Two highlights here include the dizzyingly high Duona suspension bridge (the longest in the area) and Maolin’ Valley which is the winter home for the Mexican Monarch and the very rare Taiwanese Purple Crow. The best time to see millions

species like the Dwarf Crow and Chocolate Tiger) is from November to March. Nenggao West Line, Nantou Accessible from Puli, the Nenggao West Line (a former Japanese army garrison trail) is one of the best high altitude singletracks in the world. Once a mountain trail used by the Atayal tribe (who still live in the area), this high alpine route starts at 2,000m and climbs steadily to a 3,080m viewpoint with a 360º panorama of the area.

Taiwan

CYCLING

Along the way, you’ll pass waterfalls, suspension bridges and breathtaking mixed-surface trails that hug precariously to mountainsides. Y remnants of the area’s history, including old Japanese police huts, charcoal kiln remains, and if you’re lucky, a tribesman returning from a hunt. © John Hardwich / InMotion Asia

ABORIGINAL TRAILS The central mountains are the best place to experience Taiwan’s aboriginal culture. There are currently 14 of including the Amis, Atayal, Bunun, Paiwan and Rukai, with hundreds of indigenous villages scattered throughout the mountains. Taroko Gorge, Hualien A stronghold of the Truku (Taroko) tribe – considered a sub-group of the Atayal – Taroko Gorge’s amazing canyon scenery is a popular place for day-trippers. Located high in the mountains above are the

villages of Dali and Datong which are home to about 12 families. Accessible via a steep hike from Xiulin village down in the gorge, you’ll pass a pulley system that brings food and supplies to Dali village – which seems to pop up out of nowhere as it has no road access – along the way. Once up there, you can overnight in Datong (in traditional bamboo huts), and the extra time you have here means you can explore other trails in the area, like the easy Shakadang Trail (a beautiful trail that features a stunning blue river and interesting rock formations) and the vertigo-inducing Zhuilu Old Trail, a dramatic 10km uphill hike with a section that’s a metre wide with nothing but a sheer drop of hundreds of metres on one side.

and Tefuye villages are the only 2 that house a kuba, a stilted wooden hut with a thatched roof where men traditionally held meetings on village happenings. From Dabang, you can hike the nearby Bird Worship Trail (birds feature greatly in Tsou culture), or take the easy Tefuye Trail – once a hunting track – across the Dabang Suspension Bridge to the next village, Tefuye. From here, you can tackle another ancient Tsou hunting trail through beautiful camphor and cypress forests. The shady trail is well-maintained and lined with wooden tracks (it was used to transport timber during the Japanese occupation), offering spectacular views of the entire mountain range, including Yushan (Taiwan’s tallest peak).

Alishan, Chiayi Numbering barely 5,000, the Tsou tribe inhabit one of 8 villages in the mountains near Alishan. Both Dabang

Swinhoe’s Pheasant

BIRDWATCHING Taiwan may not be well-established as a wildlife destination, but the country has one of the highest concentrations of endemic birds in Asia, including the colourful Mikado and Swinhoe's Pheasants. While migratory species are found along the coast and on offshore islands, popular birding trails are situated in the mountains where endemic birds reside.

Yangmingshan, Taipei Although Yangmingshan is more famously associated with its thermal hot springs, it’s also a popular birding site. About 150 species of birds have been recorded in the area, and while it’s fairly busy with hikers, rds: the Taiwan Blue Magpie and the Formosan

Whistling Thrush. You can spot birds year-round – in spring, you’ll also buzzards soaring overhead. There are numerous walking trails through the park’s lowland forests, and the best area to spot birds is at Datun Nature Park (which is also a great place for Anmashan, Taichung Ranging from 2,000m to 2,600m in altitude, Anmashan (Dasyueshan) is regarded as one of Taiwan's best birdwatching sites. The temperate zone and broadleaf forest has good infrastructure and a range of habitats that hide many species of endemics, including the Taiwan Barwing and Taiwan Fulvetta, as well as ground dwellers like the Swinhoe's Pheasant, Taiwan Partridge and the elusive Mikado Pheasant. There are plenty of hiking options, including the Siaosyueshan National Trail (the longest

at 10km) which climbs from 700m to 2,000m where you can see the change in vegetation and bird species; the Forest Trail (boasting large Hinoki cypress and red cedar trees) with its gradual slope; and the 3km Skid Road Trail which consists of stair-like railroad ties. Not far away is the famous Blue Gate Trail (in Nantou), which is a forest road just off Highway 14. At 2,000m, it is often used to spot pheasants, while the high elevation bamboo groves house a number of smaller birds like the T Alishan Bush Warbler.

cliff launch – which can be leads to the largest landing area in Taiwan, making it suitable for training. Come when it gets its ideal thermal conditions, it does get busy on weekends with tandem operators. The launch site is at 415m, and the ride takes you along the mountain ridgeline.

PARAGLIDING Taiwan's mountains are in close proximity to its r reating an ideal platform for paragliding. There are plenty of places where you can partake in the sport, with a number of places where you can learn or go tandem gliding – the sheer number of operators means prices are competitive (averaging NT$1,500 per Saijia, Pingtung A popular site in southern Taiwan, Saijia's

Puli, Nantou Landlocked Puli is surrounded by mountains, making the takeoff and landing daunting yet exciting. Being in the heart of the Central Mountain Range, you’ll get to soar amidst peaks that reach almost 4,000m, dotted with lakes along the way.

season between October and March. Luye, Taitung While there are several launch sites in Taitung (home to the Highland Paragliding Training Center), Luye Gaotai is by far the most popular for visitors, where tandem paragliders operate from at least 2 easy sloping launch sites which are situated near the area’s famous tea plantations at 150m above the plains. From the air, you’ll get to see the fertile Beinan valley and the rolling mountains before landing on the beautiful east coast. The best season is from April to September. Paragliding Luye

Only licensed operators are allowed in this area, who offer both lessons and tandem gliding sessions. The launch site at Tiger Head (650m) has a gentle grassy knoll for take-off, with large spectator areas. You can glide here year-round, with the best

Pingxi Railway

MOUNTAIN RAILWAYS Hidden amidst green valleys and sleepy towns are Taiwan’s scenic railways. Built during the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), these railway lines used to transport tonnes of timber and coal, and masses of workers, every day. Today, the big mines and factories are gone, and quirky, charming attractions – perfect for day trips – have taken their place. Jingtong Old Street

Pingxi Line, Taipei Known for its annual Lantern Festival, Pingxi is located along the scenic 12.9km-long Pingxi Line. At only an hour from Taipei, the Pingxi line is accessible from Sandiaoling Station and ends at Jingtong, passing Shifen and Pingxi along the way.

retro architecture along the old streets, while Shifen is known for its scenic 40m-wide waterfall. The entire area is dotted with remnants of its coal mining past, and the valley features well over 20 waterfalls. While plenty of hiking trails branch off from the railroad tracks, a particularly scenic trail is the 3-hour long Sandiaoling Waterfall Walk that leads you to the 30m-high, 2-tiered Sandiaoling Fall. Jiji Line, Changhua Jiji Line is the longest of the scenic railways at 29.5kms, beginning at Ershui Station in Changhua County, and ending in Checheng, near Sun Moon Lake. Between Longquan

and Jiji stations, you’ll pass the picturesque Green Tunnel – a tree-lined road where the hundred-year-old camphor trees have intertwined their branches to form a beautiful canopy. At Jiji station near the Green Tunnel is Wuchang Temple which has been left untouched ever since it was damaged during the 1999 earthquake. The beautiful tiled roof and ornate decorations on its eaves are still largely intact, but the temple’s columns have completely collapsed. From Shuili, you can take a bus to Sun Moon Lake for an alternative form of transport: cycling.

RELAXING WAYS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS Taiwan’s top 10 varieties. Not all mountain activities have to involve hiking or cycling. Tea Taiwan’s interior is also home to plenty of rolling tea plantations (high mountain tea is particularly sought after) where you can drop by for a tea tasting session. Just 30 minutes from Taipei is Pinglin, which is a beautiful mountain retreat famous for its fragrant tea. In the central mountains of Nantou county, Lugu’s misty forests are famous for producing the Dongding Wulong tea (the most sought after tea around Taiwan). Further south is Alishan (famous for its mountain railway), which produces the Alishan oolong tea, one of

Self-drive If you’re driving, there are plenty of cross-island highways that weave through the mountains, including Route 14 which is the highest motorable road in Taiwan that reaches an altitude of 3,275m at Wuling. Another scenic road of note is the Central Cross-Island Highway, part of which goes through the famous Taroko Gorge, that takes motorists through countless tunnels and precarious curves.

mountainous forests burst into a kaleidoscope of colours. In spring (from February till May), dark pink cherry blossoms decorate the forested hills of Yangmingshan, Wulai and Alishan, while white tung Miaoli county. From December to January, the maple tree forests in the Central Mountain Range turn into a sea of red leaves, and popular spots include the hills of Aowanda (Nantou), Alishan and Tatung (Yilan).

Leaf and flower peeping Depending on the season, Taiwan’s

Rolling tea plantation

GEAR GUY: Ken Berg Ken grew up on the doorstep of the Canadian wilderness, backpacking, paddling and rock climb-ing in this rugged land. Armed with a degree in recreational studies, he has been working at Canada's premier outdoor retailer for over 10 years, putting gear to the test whether it's cycling in -35ºC winters, running marathons or travelling to the far reaches of the planet.

CREATURE Sometimes the fun part of being on an adventure is going minimalist, feeling like you’re roughing it and surviving against the elements. However, at other times you want to have all the comforts of home and maybe even a little more, because there are times when comfort is a necessity and price is secondary.

GSI Gourmet Camp Kitchen

BASE CAMP

THE ADD-ONS

If you’re base- or car-camping, the GSI Gourmet Camp Kitchen gives you a stable surface where you can have running water (if you add on some water carriers and an air mattress foot pump), a wire cooking surface and an adjustable wind break.

Can you really put a price on your life? If you are travelling in avalanche country the Black Diamond Saga 40 Jetforce bag could literally

In the middle of a long outdoor excursion, it’s hard to imagine something as luxurious as a shower. The Zodi Hot Tap Double Shower Burner uses propane tanks over 227L of water before you need to r case doubles as a 15L water tank, allowing you to shower for up to 10 minutes.

that is activated in 4 seconds and stays rder to create an air

Zodi Hot Tap

Black Diamond Jetforce

pocket in the surrounding snow. It uses a powered fan so that you can practice using it and remains safe to transport by plane. The shock technology of the G Shock Aviation GWA1100 will protect the watch if it is struck, and a myriad of features – like a built-in compass and atomic clock that’s always accurate in 29 time zones way. No batteries are Casio GWA1100 needed as the solar panel will charge it up and once fully charged it will last for approximately 6 months without any exposure to the sun.

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ON TOP OF DOWN UNDER: AUSTRALIA’S MOUNTAINS

MT. GILLEN, NT Situated within the Alice Springs Desert Park, Mt. Gillen is a popular spot for hiking. Access to the mountain trail starts from Flynn’s Grave (father of the Royal Flying Doctor Service) at the base of the mountain which is about 7km from the town of Alice Springs. The dusty trail provides no tree cover, with the eroded track leading to the rock face about 20m below the summit where a bit of scrambling is needed. From the summit, you’ll have a 360º view of the surrounding Heavitree Range and the valley below. While it is a popular hike, there are plans to ban hiking in the area due to soil erosion.

BRIGGS BLUFF, VIC Part of a series of rugged sandstone mountain ranges that rise abruptly from the surrounding Western Plains, the rocky plateau of Briggs Bluff is located within the Grampians National Park. The bluff is accessible via a 5km scramble from the base of the cliff at Beehive Falls (itself a scenic spot especially after the rains), where trail markers lead you through massive boulders, windswept terraces and for to the summit. From the 420m-high plateau, the reward for this 4-5 hour return hike is an unobstructed view of the entire park.

BLUFF KNOLL, WA Listed as one of Australia’s top 25 best hikes, Bluff Knoll (1,099m) is the highest peak along the Stirling Range which features stark cliff faces, sheltered gullies, and is one of a few places in Western Australia to experience some snow. The climb to the knoll is a 6km, 4-hour round trip hike, which can be achieved by anyone with a r surr reserve, housing a rich diversity of colourful blooms. Accessible from the historic town of Kendenup, the Stirling Range is also known for its spectacular cloud formations.

NORTHERN TERRITORY

WESTERN AUSTRALIA SOUTH AUSTRALIA

ST. MARY PEAK, SA Situated in the ochre-red desert landscape of the Flinders Ranges, the 1,171m-high St. Mary Peak offers sublime views of the surrounding saw-toothed ridges and the plains below, including the dry salt lake of Lake Torrens. Beginning from Wilpena Pound, this is a strenuous 18km return hike via a well-signposted path. The mountain is sacred to the local Adnyamathanha people, therefore hikers are advised to stop at the Tanderra Saddle – just 1.5km shy of the summit – which also offers panoramic views. April to October is the best window to hike in this area, and hikers should start the trek no later than 9am.

While Australia’s mountains aren’t towering by world standards, a hike to their peaks provides sublime views of surrounding landscapes, which range from verdant rainforests to red deserts and fertile plains.

LAMINGTON NATIONAL PARK, QLD

Characterised by rugged mountain scenery at 800m above sea level, Lamington National Park offers plenty of walking trails. The iconic Border Track is a 23km route that links the Green Mountain (or O’Reilly’s) section to the Binna Burra section of the park, and can be completed in 6-7 hours. This walk takes you through Antarctic beech forests and subtropical rainforests that are studded with numerous waterfalls, caves and fern gullies, and ascends to the crest of the Border Range, providing views of Mt. Warning and the Tweed Valley. The trail is well-marked and can be attempted by relatively inexperienced bushwalkers.

17 MT. GOWER, NSW One of 2 prominent peaks on the World Heritage-listed Lord Howe Island, a trek up to the summit of Mt. Gower (857m) involves a strenuous 14km, 8-hour hike. A licensed guide will be able to get you up to the cloud forested plateau which is accessible via a skinny cliff-side trail – with an unforgiving drop towards the Tasman Sea ropes provide some added safety. From the top, you’ll be able to appreciate the views of neighbouring Mt. Lidgbird (777m) and much of this small island (and its marine park), including the islet of Balls Pyramid. The island’s rainforest also hides plenty of endemic plants and birds.

MT. AINSLIE, ACT

QUEENSLAND

NEW SOUTH WALES

Overlooking Canberra, Mt. Ainslie (846m) is located on the northern edge of the city, making it entirely doable as a half-day hike. Lying inside the namesake Mt. Ainslie Nature Reserve (itself part of the Canberra Nature Park), its slopes comprise rugged bushland that’s home to many rare species, like the Hooded Robin and Striped Legless Lizard. There’s an easy, paved trail coming up from the Australian War Memorial, and the main lookout has excellent views of nearby Red Hill, with the Mt. Ainslie Walking Trail up to the summit and its famous lookout taking 1.5 hours return; there’s also a shorter Remembrance Trail (30 mins).

VICTORIA ©Cradle Mountain Huts

TASMANIA

CRADLE MOUNTAIN, TAS Rising 1,545m from the northern end of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park in Tasmania, the namesake Cradle Mountain is close to the starting point of the 65km, 6-day Overland Track (one of Australia’s top hiking routes). Access to this mountain is via an 8-hour return track from Dove Lake (where you can opt for an exhilarating canyoning experience), with an ascent of 600m via Lake Lilla and Marions Lookout. The approach to the misty, jagged summit requires scrambling on some dolerite scree, but the reward – a 360º view across this World Heritage wilderness – is well worth the effort.

Untitled-1 1 30/09/2014 5:09:07 PM

Greenland is one of the great enigmas of adventure travel. It’s easy to place on a map, but even well-informed travellers struggle to say much about it. It looks bigger than Australia (a common misconception), but it’s not. Until 2012, 1% of the entire population lived in a single massive apartment block in the capital, Nuuk. It’s not very green, but then it’s also not all snow and ice either – there’s even hot springs. It’s independent but also part of the Kingdom of Denmark, which technically makes seemingly small Denmark (inclusive of Greenland), one of the largest countries on earth. It’s just 25km from Canada at its nearest point, but for many people, it might as well be on another planet in terms of travel perception.

HISTORY

NATURAL PHENOMENA

Originally settled by the early Inuit 4,500 years ago, Gr red by Europeans when Eric the Red arrived in 982AD. Naming the island “Greenland” in history’ reat real estate scam, to encourage would-be Viking settlers, his

In Greenland, natur drawcard. The Arctic Circle passes through Kangerlussuaq on the West coast and Tasiilaq on the East coast. Areas north of this latitude experience the Midnight Sun in summer. Greensland’s most northern town Qaanaaq (aka “Thule”) has Midnight Sun from April-August. Even in the far south, summer stretchs to nearly 24 hours.

that community survived for at least 500 more years, before mysteriously disappearing. Due to Greenland’s harsh climate, much of what they left behind, including ruins, runic stones and the western hemisphere’ Christian church (itself a reproduction of the original), are just a few reminders of Greenland’s Viking past that live on today alongside its thriving Inuit culture.

Come winter, the Polar Night brings with it constant darkness, but this provides the perfect backdrop for the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) which can be regularly seen throughout Greenland from September to April, thanks to the lack of light pollution; in South Greenland, they can be seen from as early as the end of August.

Visitors come to Greenland for a mix of natural phenomena (the midnight sun, northern lights and the Ice Cap), classic arctic experiences like dog sledding, and unique destinations like the Icefjord or remote Inuit settlements.

PHOTOS FROM Visit Greenland

EXPLORING GREENLAND © Leift Taurer

THE GREENLAND ICE CAP

The Ice Cap dominates the landscape, rom almost every town or settlement in the country.

Arctic with experienced expedition guides and a government permit.

Greenland

The Greenland Ice Cap is literally what makes up the country. This gargantuan sheet of ice covers 1.7million sq.km., and is up to 3km thick in places, containing 10% of the world’s fresh water. Dating back millions of years, it's the accumulation of thousands of years of snowfall that never melted, and subsequently compacted into successive layers of ice. And despite now melting at an unprecedented rate due to global warming, it still covers 80% of Greenland.

Most other visitors can experience the Ice Cap by

Given its extreme nature, the unchartered Ice Cap itself is dif hardy adventurers in excellent physical condition can explore this piece of the

or small airplanes, hiking or camping at the glacier’s edge, and dog sledding. Calving events can be observed along the glacier’s edges, especially from the Russell Glacier (Kangerlussuaq), and the Eqip Sermia and Sermeq Kujalleq glaciers (Ilulissat).

Kangerlussuaq Greenland’s only inland settlement, the town of Kangerlussuaq (meaning “Big Fjord”) is the main gateway for trips to the Ice Cap. Sitting at the head of the 170km-long Kangerlussuaq fjord, this ex-WWII air base is unique as the only place in Greenland with direct access – via a 25km-long dirt road – to the Ice Cap. The bumpy track passes several viewpoints along the way. Numerous operators in Kangerlussuaq run dog sled trips, ski touring and snowmobile safaris near the Ice Cap, with the Russell Glacier being a popular land-based location to watch the ice calve.

Ilulissat Icefjord The Ilulissat Icefjord in Disko Bay is a major outlet where the Greenland Ice Cap meets the Atlantic, and is home to huge numbers of icebergs.

During the summer, the Midnight Sun allows for extended excursions to the glacier, as well as to another of the town’s attractions – its 10,000-strong band of musk ox.

Stretching 40km long, the fjord is clogged with ice calving off the massive Sermeq Kujalleq glacier every summer. One of the world’s most active glaciers, it sheds 10% of all Greenland’s icebergs per year into the fjord. The largest chunks measure 1km deep and can get stuck in the fjord for ff into the Atlantic.

Despite its population of under 600, Kangerlussuaq is also easily accessible thanks to its position as the inland hub for Air Greenland.

The fjord is accessible from the town of Ilulissat (meaning “Icebergs”), which sits at the mouth of this iceberg corridor. Boat excursions are the best ways to get up close to the glaciers, although hiking, dog sledding and helicopter tours are also easily available. Located 246km north of Kangerlussuaq, Ilulissat is Greenland’s third largest town with a population of roughly 5,000 inhabitants and over 4,000 sled dogs, making it an ideal jumping-off point for dog sled trips as well.

MOUNTAIN CLIMBING Predominantly an ice cap with a rugged mountain chain, Greenland offers unlimited opportunities for hiking and mountaineering. Plenty of guided treks take you to the fjords and mountains, offering everything from rock climbing to easy hikes (on mountains ranging from 300m-3,000m high), to tough expedition treks. From June to August, Greenland provides optimum conditions for climbing one or several of the thousands of mountains. There are 6 core climbing destinations in Greenland, and permits are required to access the Ice Cap, the Greenland National Park and most parts of East Greenland. The mountains of East Greenland are taller, the landscape more dramatic, and all accessible via the town of Tasiilaq.

Stauning Alps (Permit Required) Located within the North Greenland National Park, the Stauning Alps is characterised by its collection of alpine peaks of up to nearly 3,000m tall. Ski touring and alpine mountaineering are the only ways to explore this area, involving region. Watkins Range (Permit Required) One of the most visited mountainous areas, the Watkins Range contains the highest mountains in Greenland. Accessible by ski-equipped airplane from Iceland, it’s located in East Greenland near the foreboding Blossevill coast, culminating in Gunnbjørn Fjeld (the tallest mountain in Greenland at 3,700m).

Schweizer Land You can climb the numerous peaks and rock walls of Schweizer Land, which is a popular climbing area that lies mostly within a permit-free zone and easily accessible from the airport at Kulusuk and the town of Tasiilaq. Cape Farewell / Tasermiut Fjord A popular climbing area since the 1970s, the fjords of South Greenland can be reached within a day from mainland Europe, with the nearest town at Nanortalik where you can hire boats into the fjords. The good granite and solid rock in the area still provide an inexhaustible number of unclimbed walls and peaks, with the most famous peaks being Ketil and Ulamertorssuaq (The Great Cylinder). Evighedsfjorden (The Fjord of Eternity) Close to the town of Maniitsoq, this fjord is a classic climbing area that has been popular since the 1960s, and is often used for extreme skiing and heliskiing.

Uummannaq Bay and Upernavik This beautiful fjord system between the Nuussuaq Peninsula and the town of Upernavik is home to some of the best climbing areas that are being ‘rediscovered’ by some of the world’s top rock climbers. The terrain has quite a bit of loose rock, as y, a number of new routes have been added to the Heart Mountain in Uummannaq, one of the most photographed mountains in Greenland.

OTHER ACTIVITIES places in Greenland, ranging from half-day sojourns to multi-day trips.

as they’re expected to assist in packing gear, clearing snow, etc. A popular tour is the 3-day trip that overnights at hunting lodges en route between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut (Greenland’s second-largest town). Dog Sledding Dog sledding is both an integral part of life as well as a cultural icon for Greenlanders. When moving around anywhere away from the coast above the Arctic Circle, given the vast distances, dog sledding is often the best option. Curiously, Greenlandic sled dogs are not allowed below the Arctic Circle, while other dog breeds are not allowed above it. Dog sledding tours are available from most

Located just north of the Arctic Circle, Sisimiut is also the main gateway into Greenland’s vast backcountry. It has a long dog sledding season (October-April), while its ice-free harbour makes it popular for sea kayaking. Other activities there include hunting trips, hiking and coastal boat tours. Whale Watching reenland attracts plenty of whales; its seas are home

to 15 types of whales, most of which visit the island seasonally each summer from May to October. The west coast attracts humpbacks around Nuuk and Sisimiut, while the relatively dimunitive beluga and the massive Fin whale both frequent Disko Bay. Blue whales are also occasionally spotted. © Julie Skotte

COSTS AND BOOKINGS

It’s not a budget destination, as many necessities like petrol and most foods are imported, but with relatively few tourists, anyone visiting Greenland has the place virtually to themselves, whether visiting the Ice Cap near Kangerlussuaq, kayaking © Mads Pihl

Greenland

While parts of Southern Greenland like Nuuk could be done F.I.T., not surprisingly, most activities like dog sledding, ski touring or camping are organised via established local operators.

under the aurora borealis.

Air Greenland and Air Iceland operate both seasonal- and year-r Disko Bay and other destinations directly from cities including Copenhagen, Reykjavik, and Ottawa (Canada). Air Greenland also operates an extensive network of internal rous passenger ferry services comprise the bulk of the island’s domestic transport; there is no road or public transport connections between towns in Greenland. For more on travel to Greenland, visit www.greenland.com.

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McAfee Knob, VN

White Mountains, NH

Roan Mountain, MA

At about 3,500km long, the epic Appalachian Trail (or AT) is one of the USA's most famous long distance hiking trails. Crossing 14 states in the eastern USA, it stretches all the way from Mt. Katahdin (Maine) to Springer Mountain (Georgia), passing countless national parks and forests. The trail traverses the Appalachian Mountain ridgeline, ranging from alpine zones along the Presidential Range in New Hampshire, to sub-alpine regions of the Shenandoah National Park in Massachusetts.

MADE FOR HIKING Conceived in 1921 and built by volunteer hiking clubs, the AT is now managed by the National Park Service and the non-pr Trail Conservancy, and actively maintained by 31 trail clubs with thousands of volunteers. The AT is a popular trail that is typically hiked from south (Georgia) to north (Maine). Thru-hikers usually begin their tr by September. The entire length of it is marked by painted white blazes (the 'of referred by purists); there are also blue blazes (using shortcuts) and yellow blazes used by hitchhikers. The AT has over 250 shelters and campsites along the trail, ranging from New Hampshire's huts (operated by the

THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

Appalachian Mountain Club) to the Fontana Dam Shelter (North Carolina), providing full-service lodging.

terminus of the AT – and Blood Mountain (1,360m). This portion gets very crowded in spring with thru-hikers.

While a majority of the trail is in the wilderness, hikers will also pass many roads and towns along the way, including Hot Springs (North Carolina), Hanover (New Hampshire) and Monson (Maine). These are ideal stops for restocking supplies; some towns also offer hikeroriented accommodations.

A spectacularly scenic 120km portion in northern Georgia traverses forests of rhododendron, grassy peaks and oak hollows.

THE ROUTE: SOUTH TO NORTH Most hikers start from the south, and follow the warm weather on the way north. The trail can also be done in sections. Georgia Traversing the Chattahoochee National Forest, the 121km of trail rambles over many steep ups and downs, including Springer Mountain (1,000m) – the southern

North Carolina - Tennessee The trail through North Carolina passes the southern portion of the Smoky Mountains, including breathtaking portions of the Nantahala River that has some of the best-graded trails at high elevations. Running just over 100km through Tennessee's Great Smoky Mountains National Park, it traverses high ridge lines, including the highest point of the AT – Clingman's Dome (2,025m). Rhododendron gardens and panoramic views of grassy 'bald' mountains are notable here.

Generally, the well-graded (with some steep climbs) southern portion of the state provides solitude. Southwest Virginia is popular for its rhododendrons and azaleas in summer. In central Virginia, the AT parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway and features unusual rock formations, high summits and mature timber. The busiest portion in Virginia is the 170km trail through Shenandoah National Park, which is ideal for beginner hikers thanks to its well-maintained trails, lower elevations and abundant wildlife.

Range is very remote, and is abundant with wildlife (including black bears). The elevation is moderate, with the trail crossing bogs and wetlands (with a bird sanctuary) and the picturesque Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area.

Valley and the Taconic Range, running along river banks in many sections.

The elevations along New York’s portion vary from r rocky pitches, and while quite remote, it does get crowded at the Harriman-Bear Mountain AT created in 1923).

The Berkshire Plateau in Massachusetts provides a gently undulating hike through pleasant wooded hills and valleys, offering views of Mt. Greylock and Mt. Everett, and passes several small New England towns.

Connecticut - Massachusetts The short portion through Connecticut meanders across the Housatonic River

provides lovely pastoral views.

USA

Virginia Much of the AT traverses Virginia, and the terrain varies from easy hiking to dif scrambling, as hikers cross back and forth from isolated wilderness to busy parks.

Smoky Mountains, TN

The northern Virginia portion follows a notorious undulating portion near Snickers Gap before it hits Harpers Ferry in West Virginia, the midway point of the AT. Maryland - Pennsylvania With low elevations, Maryland's 66km of the AT runs through parts of Greenbrier State Park, and is ideal for an easy 3-4 day trip. Following the mountains east of the Alleghenies, the 300km+ trail in Pennsylvania is notorious for its long section consisting of foot-stabbing stones. However, the southern portion has easy, gentle grades. New Jersey - New York The rugged portion along the Kittatinny

Mt. Katahdin, ME

GETTING THERE At 3,500kms long, the AT is accessible from many points along the eastern USA. The best way to get to the trailheads is by driving (there are hundreds of carparks along the AT), with Harpers Ferry (WV) and Pawling (NY) offering direct rail services to the trails. Some areas along the AT are also serviced by buses, with the New England portion having the most connections. For more on the Appalachian Trail, visit www.appalachiantrail.org or www.nps.gov.

Vermont - New Hampshire The Vermont portion follows the southern Green Mountains' high, rugged crest along the famous 'Long Trail'. Parts of the AT approaches the treeline, requiring strenuous ascents through forests of birch and pine. Avoid hiking here during the spring ‘mud season’. The highlight of New Hampshire's portion

is the beautiful White Mountains, residential Range. Topped by Mt. Washington (1,920m), the Presidentials are among the highest ranges on the entire AT, making it some of the toughest climbs along the trail. The 140km portion through the White Mountain National Forest feels like a hike through the tundra, with majestic views of lakes and valleys below. Due to its elevation, hikers can expect severe weather conditions, and regular snowfall on Mt. Washington. Maine Maine's 452km of trail leads to the AT’s northern terminus at Mt. Katahdin in Baxter State Park. Moose and loons are a

common sight, thanks to the abundance of lakes, streams and bogs. This portion is considered the most dif even for experienced hikers. The western section's 1,200m-high mountains are arguably the toughest portion of the entire AT, including a mile-long boulder scramble at Mahoosuc Notch. The central section is the least strenuous, and follows the historic route across the Kennebec River using free canoe ferry services. The eastern section (or 'Hundred Miles') comprises disconnected mountains with challenging climbs, and tricky stream crossings.