Sports+Travel Hong Kong SEP OCT 2016

Son Doong Cave; Photo by Aidon Lyon

SEP - OCT 2016 Free

ISSUE 47

Eco Issue

Iceland | Vietnam | Grenada

SEP - OCT 2016 ISSUE 47

© Skolaferdalag

© MIAT

© Aidan Lyon

06 Formosan Rides

28 Stone, Sea and Cenote

08 Cycling Aboriginal Trails

30 The Spice Isle

10

Top to Bottom

CYCLING TAIWAN FROM MOUNTAIN TO COAST

REGULARS

14

Land of Fire & Ice

05

Publisher's Note

12

Gear Guide

24

Travel Tips

34

Events

MOUNTAIN BIKING IN AND AROUND TAIPEI TAIWAN’S LEGENDARY NENGGAO LINE

21

CIRCUMNAVIGATING ICELAND

Land of the Khans

MONGOLIA AIRLINES’ 60TH ANNIVERSARY

22 Into the Abyss

VIETNAM’S SON DOONG CAVE

26 Adrenaline Island DIVING IN PHUKET

RUIN HOPPING IN THE YUCATAN

AROUND GRENADA

SPORTS + 17

Adventure Racing

OUR TEAM PUBLISHER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER FINANCE & ADMIN MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sports and Travel Limited publisher@sportsandtravel.com.hk Aaron K. Stewart astewart@sportsandtravel.com.hk Lynn Ooi

Marilyn Wong mwong@sportsandtravel.com.hk Hylda Low hlow@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Julian S. Rosario jrosario@sportsandtravel.com.hk

ADVERTISING SALES ADVERTISING SALES AUSTRALIA HONG KONG INDONESIA MALAYSIA PHILIPPINES THAILAND

advertise@sportsandtravel.com.hk Sabine Senne ssenne@sportsandtravel.com.hk Chris Ng cng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Akram Razak arazak@sportsandtravel.com.hk Sukdev Gill sgill@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Jil North jnorth@sportsandtravel.com.hk Jesse Ting jting@sportsandtravel.com.hk

SPECIAL THANKS

CONTRIBUTORS Aidan Lyon John Jaycock Julian Rosario Kaz Singer Ken Berg

Linda Cash Ryan Deboodt Yun Ng Wilson Low

Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority Oxalis Adventure Tours Taiwan Tourism Bureau Hong Kong Office

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Publisher's Note

05

Dear Fellow Travellers, This issue, it’s all about Eco. And that takes us to some remarkable places, notable for their natural and/or cultural beauty.

First, we head towards Taiwan for a bit of cycling within the heart of the city – Taipei. Followed by cycling through the country’s Aboriginal region, home to one of the bloodiest battles in Taiwan’s Japanese-era history. Cyclist can lastly tackle some of Taiwan’s most scenic coasts on their own two (unmotorised) wheels along the country’s East Coast.

Heading next is far-flung Iceland, with its abundance of natural beauty. The contrast of glaciers and geysers make for some amazing scenery, all of which can be explored along a ring road surrounding the country. The source of the geysers also happen to provide Iceland with ecofriendly power and hot water.

Closer to home, you can check out Vietnam’s most sought-after destination: Son Doong cave. This giant underground cavern is not only majestic for its speleothems, it’s also got its own climate and unique tropical jungle. Unfortunately, the earliest time you can visit is in 2017, as all tours to this limited-access corner of Vietnam is fully booked this year.

Halfway across the globe, we have Mexico and Grenada. One of them is an eco gem where Monarch butterflies swarm in their millions, while the other is an island paradise famous for its spices (and monkeys).

Meanwhile, this issue’s Sports+ segment features tips on the tools of Adventure Racing for those of you who’re new to the game.

Until then, Happy Trails!

Sports+Travel Ltd

SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL

The Taiwanese love going out into nature. For such an outdoorsy society, surprisingly very few people tackle Taiwan (or even Taipei) on 2 wheels. With Yang Ming Shan (the capital’s great urban jungle just on the outskirts of town) and dozens of good, short courses within the heart of the city itself, Taipei hides weeks of great riding.

For hardened riders – both locals and expats alike – Taiwan’s cross-country, downhill and mountain biking scene is low-key, by comparison to the 10-15% of the population that hikes regularly. The payoff for visitors, is dozens of well-maintained, regularly used trails (usually in great condition) where you’ll have endless views over vast swaths of rural Taipei County entirely to yourself.

While there are hundreds of good, established trails in northern Taiwan, here are some of the best that could be done in as short as a half-day ride.

IMAGES BY Taiwan Tourism Bureau Hong Kong Office

MOUNTAIN BIKING IN AND AROUND TAIPEI WITHIN THE CITY

warmup to the massive climb over roots and rocks about 1.3km in, up the adjacent hill, topping out in spectacular views over the entire city.

Like many of the city’s best biking trails, the Gas Plant (named for the adjacent gas plant, near Lin Kuang MRT station) is largely unofficial, but an excellent ride.

At just under 3km, the trail’s popular with hikers and bikers; to avoid foot traffic go weekdays, or very early and late on weekends.

Following that, it’s a steep descent over shallow steps, with some very tight, technically demanding hairpin turns. There are a few portages over major rocks, after which it’s a great but hair raising run over the next several hundred metres, including a steeply-banked 1m drop. Dodging a few large rocks after that, the remainder of the Gas Plant’s a shady, green tunnel of trees over a fast downhill, which can be challenging in wet conditions. From there, it’s a set of steps to the main road. It’s 10 mins to bike back to the trailhead just off Hsin Hai Rd.

The Gas Plant: Taipei’s best short ride Trail Time: 1-2 hour Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate

The trail starts just behind the gas plant, adjacent to the World Trade Center, and for the first 1km is short stretches of gentle uphills. Getting progressively steeper and longer, they’re a good

Trail Time: 2.5 hours Skill Level: High Intermediate Situated in Neihu, Yangmingshan National Park, Taipei’s best downhill course is named the Ski Lift, since cyclists generally take the auto-option to get to the top before tackling the long, advanced descent. From the top, the stone covered trail starts off with a tight tree cover and altitude. It’s nearly always slick, and it eventually enters a large drop (a very steep chute), before reaching paved road. This cuts its way through the woods to a tall flight of stairs that are too steep to ride on. Among Taipei’s cycling fraternity, this stretch is know as ‘the Snake’.

Continuing down after crossing several intersecting trails and a brief asphalt strip, things narrow to a single track, which

can get crowded with hikers at midday on weekends. After passing a short stretch of loose gravel, it’s on to the trail’s biggest climb – a 15-minute monster.

Be careful in this stretch, which is deceptively called ‘the Spike’, a cautionary reference to the many bits of reebar jutting out from the trail’s base layer, following which the trail uses a long, winding series of switchbacks to defuse an otherwise suicidally steep drop. Overgrown with roots in places, the trail levels out after one last big drop of over 1m.

From there, it’s a tight, single track, but a smooth downhill shot for quite a ways before a final stretch of small drops and the end of the 10km trail.

OTHER TRAILS

Hot Springs and Beitou Beitou is famous for its hot springs.

Originally developed by the WWII-era Japanese, it’s become a burgeoning centre for weekend-break spa-hotels and centres, as well as one of Taipei’s suburban satellite towns.

Starting at the Zher Nan Temple, highlights include a 2km stretch of an unbroken, undulating single-track route and several stretches through tea fields, and bamboo forests before reaching Wu Fong Shan. Enjoy the views here, because after this are a series of 2 chutes (one of which is vast and deep). After that, the trail ends on tarmac at Hsin Tien, roughly 7.5km southwest of the city centre.

During the week (or early morning on weekends), it’s ideal for both downhill and cross-country rides. Numerous trails including the infamous Speed Trap – a sustained 20-minute downhill with jumps and drops that’s built for speed, with big banked turns. The entire 4.5km trail can be clocked in under 30 minutes. Accidents aren’t uncommon, but there’s always a hot spring to convalesce afterwards, as the trail ends right back in town.

Cross Country in Maokong Famous for tea houses and plantations overlooking Taipei, Maokong is a rambling 15km cross-country trail that’s a good, long 3-hour ride that’s just a 20-minute drive from the capital.

Taiwan

THE SKI LIFT

When it comes to adventure tourism destinations in Asia, Taiwan is one of the most underrated, although it hard to understand why. It has some of the most captivating scenery anywhere on the planet, towering mountains (including Northeast Asia s tallest), a smorgasbord of national parks, a selection of alluring offshore islands, and thanks to its volcanic past, numerous hot spring resorts.

Taiwan is also home to sensational cuisine, a fascinating cultural mix and one of the most complex history s for such a short-recorded period, by Asian standards. It started with the arrival of the Dutch in 1624, and through a tradition of rebellion and resistance, has also seen occupations by the Spanish, Mainland Chinese, Japanese and briefly the French.

With such a tumultuous past, Taiwan is a historians delight and throughout the island you can find an array of interesting snapshots from the past which when combined with the grand array of adventure activities on offer adds just that little bit more to an already world-class outdoor adventure experience.

One of the best areas to find this fascinating adventure and historical and cultural mix is Central Taiwan, which starts from the major bike manufacturing city of Taichung on the western belt, through the rolling mountains to the majestic Sun Moon Lake, and from there rapidly upwards into the massive mountain ranges that run down the central spine of Taiwan before plunging steeply down to the tranquil east coast.

TAIWAN’S LEGENDARY NENGGAO LINE

CULTURAL CENTRAL

It’s in these imposing mountains that hidden secrets and stories from the past lay. Stories of tribal wars, bravery, coups and assassinations, and ultimately a story of huge sacrifice and suffering.

Nowhere is this more abundant than an area called the NengGao West Line, the scene of an epic battle between the local aboriginal tribes and the then occupying Japanese forces. It is also home to one of the best high altitude single-track mountain biking trails in the world.

The journey starts from Puli, the geographical centre of Taiwan and the epicentre for the devastating 921 earthquake that killed more than 2,400 people early in the morning of September 21, 1999. The area has long since been rebuilt and vehicles can cruise effortles-sly across the 100m-high elevated express-

way, an engineering masterpiece that connects Puli to the outside world, and provides a birds-eye view of the lush mountainous coverage and betel-nut plantations far below.

Heading up the steep switchbacks east of Puli lies the Central Cross Island Highway, one of only 3 roads to connect western and eastern Taiwan due to the difficult and steep mountainous terrain, which in total covers 69% of Taiwan and includes a staggering 258 peaks over 3,000m.

The Central Cross Island is another engineering marvel and home to some of the most spectacular high alpine scenery anywhere in the world as it winds through the clouds with rocky mountains and sheer drop-offs at every bend, tropical valleys, snow-capped peaks, alpine forests and rocky ravines, steamy hot springs and roaring rivers, mountain lakes and the shimmering sea in the distance.

During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, policemen were stationed in every Atayal village in the area, and a school system was established, making Japanese compulsory to all aboriginal children. Such policies angered tribal leaders, and in October 1930, a misunderstanding at a wedding provided the spark for an Atayal uprising lead by Chief Mona Rudao.

The local school, which was holding a sports day, was attacked with the Atayal warriors slaughtering some 132 Japanese men, women and children. The Japanese reaction was swift: an army of 2,700 was sent, along with trackers from rival Atayal clans to hunt down the rebels, a campaign which took fifty days and involved aerial bombing and poison gas that left around 644 Atayal dead. Chef Mona Rudao, along with almost 300 other warriors, opted to hang himself rather than surrender.

Taiwan

The Wushe Incident The soothing hot springs of Lushan, an aboriginal village about a third of the way up the Central Link and just past the aboriginal village of Wushe, is strategically located at the foot of the Wanda Reservoir on a plateau overlooking the valleys below. It s here in Wushe that the infamous Wushe Incident took place, the biggest and last rebellion against Japanese colonial forces in Taiwan which ultimately resulted in the massacre of the Atayal aborigine group in 1930.

In the aftermath, most of the local villagers were wiped out, with the Japanese offering bounties to other Atayal warriors to mop up resistance that lead to further massacres of those surrendered.

Rudao’s body was taken to Taipei and only given a formal burial in 1981. A special 20-dollar coin was minted in his honour in 2001.

BIKING THE NENGGAO WEST LINE

Having enjoyed the soothing hot springs of Lushan and some of the tastiest fresh mountain cuisine on the island, rise early to head a short distance to the NengGao trailhead when the early morning sun rises majestically above the towering mountain vistas. This is arguably one of the top 10 mountain biking trails in the world.

The NengGao West Line was initially opened by the Baleiao group of the Sedeke Branch of the Atayal Tribe who, by accident, found during a hunting expedition that the sector was habitable. After settling down in the area, they continued creating trails deep into the mountains and established a trade link to Hualien on the east coast and the local Ami Tribe.

In 1917, the Japanese expanded the original aboriginal trails and built what is known as the NengGao Cross Mountain Trail, a shortcut linking both sides of Taiwan and a means to keep the local tribes under control. It became one the broadest and most well-constructed of all the police trails built by the Japanese in Taiwan, and was expanded yet again in 1950

by TaiPower engineers as they built a network of 127 tall electricity pylons in the region.

Today, it is nature’s answer to mountain biking heaven and a legendary out-and-back ride that offers up endless perfect high altitude single-track, jaw dropping views, and diverse flora and fauna.

The trail commences at an elevation of just over 2,000m and involves a steady 3-hour climb through a handful of climatic zones to the top hut 13km away at an awe-inspiring elevation of 3,080m.

There are stunning views from the grassy rest area and along an epic stretch of the ridgeline to the NengGao Monument (the turnaround point).

With 360º panoramic views, the downhill is a 90min plus descent along the flowing single-track that sweeps down the mountain through pristine forest sections, past tranquil waterfalls, over a series of suspension bridges and, if you’re lucky, you may see a local hunter returning from a day in the mountains.

The cultural remains along the trail include old Japanese police huts, charcoal kiln remains, the huts at Yunhai and Tianche, and the impressive NengGao Monument among others. The Taiwan forestry bureau has done a great job of erecting informative displays throughout the trail providing a fascinating cultural and historical mix to Taiwan’s premier single-track trail.

In 2007, Taiwan experienced a cycling revolution.

Lead by Taiwan’s leading bike companies Giant and Merida, the local population suddenly discovered the joys of cycling for leisure, exercise, travelling or simply because it was a new fad that everyone else was doing. More local people were starting to enjoy their own country in an eco-friendly manner and experience the joys and excitement of cycling one of the best cycling destinations in the world.

Taiwan has nearly 16,000km of coastline bisected by Northeast Asia’s highest mountains and interspread with fertile rift valleys, national parks, forest reserves, glistening lakes, hidden waterfalls and rushing rivers that spill into the surrounding emerald ocean. With spectacular 3,000m+ continuous downhills, monster climbs and miles upon miles of undulating coastline terrain, it’s dotted with amazing geology, warm hospitable locals, a fascinating history, vibrant culture and ample wildlife.

CYCLING TAIWAN FROM MOUNTAIN TO COAST CENTRAL CROSS ISLAND RIDE

Arguably one of the most visually stunning routes is the legendary Central Cross Island – a mammoth 3-day ride that takes you from one side of Taiwan to the other via the cloud-scraping 3,275m-high Central Cross Island Pass. The Central Cross Island provides some of the most spectacular high alpine scenery anywhere, as it winds through the clouds with rock mountains and sheer drop-offs at every bend.

Day 1: Sun Moon Lake - Lushan The journey starts in Nantou and the famous Sun Moon Lake. Hemmed in by verdant mountains in the heart of Taiwan, Sun Moon Lake is the island’s largest freshwater body and one of its most renowned tourist destinations. Encircling it all is a 30km road dotted with fascinating temples and picturesque pavilions that provides the perfect way to warm the legs up for the challenge to come.

From Sun Moon Lake, the road flows effortlessly through a maze of betel-nut plantations that line the lake to the south and a fast downhill section along the river to Puli, the geographical centre of Taiwan.

It’s at Puli that the real challenge begins; a massive 55km climb to the highest road point in northeast Asia, the 3,275m-high Wuling Pass. Halfway up, the soothing hot springs of Lushan offer a welcome sight and a place to rest for the night and enjoy some of the tastiest aboriginal cuisine in Taiwan at a lovely riverside setting.

Day 2: Lushan - Wuling Farm Lushan is one of central Taiwan’s most popular hot spring sites, not only for the scenic hot springs, but also the local Atayal aboriginal culture. The hot spring water is said to have a healing effect on rheumatism, nerve pain and other joint aches. The surrounding scenery in Lushan features exuberant growth of trees and bamboo dotting the landscape. When spring comes, cherry blossoms blanket the entire mountain.

At 2,500m, trees start to thin out and the climb takes on a whole new experience as wide views across the central mountain range greet riders on almost every corner.

With the top in sight, riders squeeze the last remains of energy from their legs before enjoying the overwhelming satisfaction of making it all the way to the top with its sensational high altitude vistas.

Day 3: Downhill: Wuling Farm - Cilan The downhill portion is in the shape of a 110km rollercoaster ride to Cilan on Taiwan’s east coast. On the way down, you’ll find Lishan, perched on the southeastern fringe of Shei-Pa National Park and famous for its fruit, which is grown at altitude and renowned for its freshness. Picturesque apple and pear orchards, tea plantations and the sweeping views of the massive Shueshan Mountain Range provide a spectacular riding environment together with the crystal clear Deji Reservoir.

DOING THE TRIP

You can tackle this long-distance trip on your own (either by renting, buying or bringing your own bike), as the bike route follows the main road through the mountains. For more on the towns along this route, visit www.taiwan.net.tw.

Taiwan

Cilan - Jiaosi Further down, the Cilan plains offer an important gateway into the Central Cordillera and the imposing mountains that make up the backbone of Taiwan. Cilan itself is nestled between these mountain ranges and the Pacific Ocean. A great variety of agriculture and ancient cypress trees line the route through this valley.

Blessed with natural beauty and rich culture, the Yilan plains take riders further north at the finishing point at yet another wonderful hot spring village: Jiaosi. Jiaosi is a popular day trip spot for locals from Taipei and harks back to the days of the Japanese occupation and their love for onsens (hot springs).

What better way for finish this epic tour than with a picturesque setting overlooking the Yilan plains with the hot spring water gently massaging weary legs back to life.

TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL 2016 Taiwan will be hosting its Taiwan Cycling Festival again this year, with a number of themed events from 2 October to 13 November. For more info, visit http://theme.taiwanbike.tw/event/2016/en.

Of the four main activities, two are for professional cyclists: • Taiwan KOM Challenge (28 October): hardy participants can take part in this competitive 105km-long route that climbs from sea level at Hualien to 3,275m at Hehuan Mountain.

• Formosa 900 (22 October -13 November): This cycle marathon focuses on the 900km round- island journey. This year, Penghu Island will be added to the event between 22 -30 October.

Leisure cyclists can partake in the Sun Moon Lake “Come! Bikeday” (13 November) where you ride for 30km in one day, or the 0K TaiwanFloral City Biking Festival (2 October) when Taichung City will host both professional and leisure cyclists along this low-carbon tour of its idyllic cycle paths.

GEAR GUIDE

MANCHESTER UNITED HEATZONE 1000 TURBODOWN HOODED JACKET Part of the Titanium Line, it gets its warmth from the 900-fill, water-resistant goose down, 100g’s of Omni-Heat insulation, a thermal reflective lining, and its revolutionary wave baffle construction that eliminates the cold spots found in traditional down jackets. Available at www.ManUTD. columbiasports.hk at HK$5,599.

Manchester United Heatzone 1000 Turbodown Hooded Jacket

Icebug Anima4 M/W RB9X

ICEBUG ANIMA4 M/W RB9X

The iconic ICEBUG ANIMA4 RB9X has been given a new fresh and modern look, with its new coloured airy upper mesh. Toe guard and heel cup reinforcement are smaller for a smoother fit, and ankle collar and tongue padding are slightly thinner for a snug fit and a more direct running feeling. The padding foam has closed cells which makes it absorb barely any water, so the shoes will stay light.

The injection-moulded midsole provides the right level of smooth cushioning. Available at Protrek stores at HK$ 1,249.

SCOTT KINABALU ENDURO SHOE M’S/W’S

The brand new Scott Kinabalu Enduro is the latest addition to the range which weighs 310g. The seamless one-piece KPU upper offers protection and comfort for all day adventures while the eRide tuned midsole has strategic flex zones to provide asymmetric flexibility and enhance ground adaptation, while the multifunctional and multi-directional lugs provide traction on a multiple surfaces. The Vibram outsole provides strong performance, grip and stability during a run. Available at all Re:echo shops at HK$1,290.

Scott Kinabalu Enduro shoe M’s/W’s

Silva Smartband Sec & Sec X

SILVA SMARTBAND SEC & SEC X

To keep track of your daily activities, Silva started off making pedometers before it started to develop smartbands. Whether you’re walk to and from work or taking the stairs, the band keeps track of your daily activity and the quality of your sleep. The soft rubberised plastic makes it sit comfortably on your wrist, and you can follow your activity in the available App for iPhone and Android. Silva Smartbands are water resistant and made to withstand tough conditions; choose either Sec (with less features), or Sec X if you want to go all in.

Available at RC Outfitters at HK$899.

OXI-Jet Medium Running Socks

OXI-JET MEDIUM RUNNING SOCKS

The OXI-Jet sock encourages blood flow, and massages the lymphatic streams to eliminate injurious substances. The special “gradual weaving tension”(nylon+LYCRA fibre) produces a micromassage action, and elastic support in the arch of the foot (neuromuscular bandaging) prevents stress and injuries. The socks feature left- and right-foot anatomical paddings, and anti-friction flat-seam toes. Available in various colours and sizes at HK$249 at RC Outfitters.

SALOMON SPEED CROSS PRO

Salomon Speed Cross Pro

An S-LAB inspired, quick-footed trail runner for soft and wet conditions with excellent grip on wet rocks, Salomon’s Speed Cross Pro uses lightweight materials and welded seams to reduce weight while maintaining flexibility and comfort on the trail, while its Endofit improves ground feel and comfort. The aggressive lug design ensures grip on soft, wet, muddy or loose surfaces, while its Sensifit quicklace system offers friction-free eyelets that wrap the foot precisely and comfortably. Available at Overlander Mongkok Shop at HK$1,440.

NATHAN VAPOR AIRESS RACE VEST The Nathan Vapor Airess keeps water and gear close to the body to prevent bouncing and maximise comfort while running or racing. It features a 2L Slide seal bladder with magnetically-held hydration tube to provide hydration, while gear or apparel is stored in a back stash pocket. Dual front holsters can hold two 700ml bottles for additional hydration, while 2 stretch mesh side zipper pockets fit small essentials or a smartphone.

A breathable mesh back and shoulder straps provide a comfortable fit specifically designed for women. Available at Protrek stores at HK$ 1,349.

Nathan Vapor Airess Race Vest

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SCOTT TRAIL T BELT

The Scott T-Belt is a minimalist option for trail running, cross-country skiing and marathons. There are several mesh pockets for small refreshments, and the elastic inserts guarantee slip-free, high quality comfort. Available at Re:echo shops at HK$390.

Scott Trail T Belt

Skolaferdalag

CIRCUMNAVIGATING ICELAND

PHOTOS BY Yun Ng / Get more tips on Iceland at yuninthesky.com

Iceland, land of the Vikings, auroras and puffins, lies in the Atlantic Ocean, halfway between the new world and the old. A land not just of ice but of fire, it also boasts vistas dotted with both glaciers and volcanoes.

Godafoss

One of the best ways to experience what Iceland has to offer is along the country’s ring road, which can be circumnavigated in 7-10 days (allow more for bad weather and to see everything properly without exhausting yourself). The total length of the ring road is 1,332km, but you may end up driving about 1,790km with detours on the Diamond route in North Iceland.

Puffins

DAY 1: REYKJAVIK AND WEST ICELAND

Reykjavik is a compact town with quirky art that can be found just by walking around – balloons in trees, flowers growing out of computers. The streets are also chock-full with Scandinavian design shops, health food places and hipster cafes. The Lutheran church of Hallgrímskirkja is a favourite

attraction, modelled after volcanic basalt formations.

A 5 hour drive north east takes you to North Iceland, a region that offers a wide range of Icelandic experiences: fishing villages, whale-watching sites, and skifields for recreation; waterfalls, glaciers, mudpools and volcanoes for nature; as well as a boatload of festivals through much of the year.

DAY 2: NORTH ICELAND AND DIAMOND ROUTE Round the tip of the longest fjord in Iceland, Eyjafjörður, and west along Highway 1 is Godafoss. Also known as the Waterfall of the Gods, it symbolises a pivotal point in the nation’s religious history. In 1000 AD, faced with the possibility of civil

strife between followers of “the old custom” and Christians, chieftain Thorgeirr chose Christianity to be the new official religion of Iceland, disposing the statues of his gods into the waterfall to symbolise his conversion from paganism.

There are two banks from which to view this waterfall, but the east bank has more and better vantage points.

From Godafoss, you can go on to Lake Myvatn, one of the filming locations of the hit series Game of Thrones, where Jon Snow followed Ygritte into a cave. The Myvatn nature baths, located at the Lake Myvatn geothermal area, is like the famous Blue Lagoon but smaller, less crowded and half the price.

Iceland Dettifoss

On the east shore of Myvatn is Dimmuborgir, or Dark Castles, lava fields of black basalt containing many interesting and dramatic rock formations. In Icelandic folklore, Dimmuborgir is also said to be connected to the underworld.

The lava fields are home to another Icelandic myth. Follow the sign for Jólasveinar Hellir (Yule Lads’ cave) off the main path and you’ll come upon an empty cave with cooking utensils, brushes and razors.

The Yule Lads are the Icelandic version of Santa Claus (there are 13 of them, each with their own personality).

bit of effort to climb up to the edge of the crater but from the top, one can look out over the entire area of Lake Myvatn and Dimmuborgir.

Within an hour’s drive, you’ll get to Hverir with its profusion of mudpools and fumaroles, where the rotten egg-like smell of sulphur hangs thick in the air, and the Krafla lava fields, a major geothermal area with its own power station. All of Iceland is powered by geothermal energy, even the hot showers in

hotels smell of sulphur, all piped in from geothermal areas.

15

Head towards the sea at Husavik Harbour, one of the best places in the world to go whale watching; Skjálfandi Bay is home to many types of whales including porpoises, humpbacks and minke whales. The town of Husavik itself is known for its quirky Icelandic Phallalogical Museum.

Hverjall crater

Not far along route 848 is where you’ll find a vast rimmed hollow in the earth.

The Hverjfall crater is 1km wide and was formed 2,500 years ago by an eruption, leaving a bowl 140m deep. Traversing Hverfjall crater feels like walking on the moon. It takes about 20 minutes and a

Horse-riding

DAY 4: EAST ICELAND

Driving through the fjords of East Iceland is breathtaking, filled with views of picture-postcard scenery with its green grass, waterfalls and watering holes. In some places the wind howls so loudly, your car might seem like it’s shaking. In other places, a heavy fog may descend upon you.

DAY 3: NORTH ICELAND & DIAMOND ROUTE

One interesting activity to try in Iceland is horse riding, which is available at nearby Saltvik. Icelandic horses are world-renowned for their tölt gait – the horses themselves are stout, surefooted and pretty animals that you can ride through the fields, down to the beach and easily over streams.

Turning clockwise round the coast leads you inland to Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe (you can hear it from a long way off before you can see it).

The east bank gives a better view of the 44m tall and 100m wide waterfall, as the spray obstructs the view from the west bank. Be careful as the furiously roaring and pouring water makes the surrounding rocks slippery.

Near the east coast, Jökulsá á Fjöllum, Iceland’s second-longest river, runs along the beautiful Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, creating amazing waterfalls and spectacular landforms. Located in Jökulsárgljúfur National Park, 60km east of Husavik, the canyon landscape is said to have been formed by ancient glacial floods.

Driving south-west along the coast brings you to Skaftafell National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

Sail among picturesque icebergs on an amphibious boat, watch chunks of ice break away from the Vatnajökull glacier, and have a taste of 1,000 year-old ice picked fresh from the lake. Inquisitive seals might even swim by if you’re lucky.

There are amphibious vehicles touring the area from April-November around the lagoon, but mind the crowds.

Back east along Highway 1 is the Country Hotel Smyrlabjörg (decorated with various taxidermied Icelandic animals like puffin), where you can also try beer made with “thousand year old” glacier water from Vatnajökull, the largest glacier mass in Europe.

DAY 5: SOUTH ICELAND

Start off the day with a trip to Svartifoss, the Black Waterfall, within Skaftafell National Park. The water falls over basalt columns that resemble a grand, gothic organ.

Following a 4km hiking route takes you past Hundafoss and gives a peek of Skaftafellsjökull glacier along the way.

Take Highway 1 to the small town of Vik, where three spires of black basalt, called Reynisdrangar, stand nearby in the stormy Atlantic surf. Legend has it they were two trolls towing a three-masted ship, but turned to stone when the sun rose. If possible, plan to go to Reynisfajara beach at low tide so that the cliff with the basalt columns is accessible on foot.

There are strong undertows so it’s not advisable to get too close to the water.

About 35km northwest of Reynisdrangar is Skogafoss (or ‘forest falls’), where you can sometimes see single or double rainbows on sunny days due to the volume of spray the waterfall consistently produces.

With a drop of 60m, it’s one of the country’s biggest waterfalls, and is accessible via a metal staircase to the left of the falls.

Svartifoss

From the top you can enjoy a view of the cascading waters and rolling hills.

Just 30 minutes away from Skogarfoss is Seljalandsfoss - one of the rare waterfalls with a walkspace behind the cataract. One can get a great view from the side of the fall but there are slippery rocks.

Reynisfjara & Reynisdrangar

DAY 7: BLUE LAGOON

Two hours to the west is the Blue Lagoon, one of the most famous places in the world for a good hot spring soak.

Here, you’ll find a waterfall, a sauna and free white silica mud to put on your face. By paying an entry fee, the shower area provides basic amenities, excluding towels. Booking tickets online will shave €10 off packages that range from €50 to €205 (June-August).

Blue Lagoon

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

DAY 6: GOLDEN CIRCLE

The Golden Circle, a 1 day circuit, tours some of the most picturesque places Iceland has to offer, including its tectonic plates, spewing geysers and waterfalls. North along the Golden Circle is arguably Iceland’s most famous waterfall: the majestic, thundering Gulfoss. There, waters roar dramatically over two stages, surrounded by pristine greenery.

Ten minutes to the east is Haudakalur valley and the hot spring jet called Geysir, from which comes the English term ‘geyser’. Geysir is dormant, but its twin, Strokkur, still erupts every 8-10 minutes and is a spectacular sight. The valley is also home to smaller hot springs and fumaroles.

Numerous European carriers (Air France, KLM, SAS, etc) fly from Hong Kong to Iceland’s airport at Keflavik.

From Keflavik Airport you can take the Flybus to Reykjavik (45 mins). It’s worth getting gravel protection insurance – if a stone so much as scratches the car, you’ll have to pay – since you will encounter about 20km of gravel road around Dettifoss on road 864.

From August to September, the temperatures are still comfortable (9 18ºC), and most importantly, there is plenty of daylight (about 14 hours). Besides tourist hordes within the Golden Circle, encountering a crowd elsewhere would be rare, as Iceland is the most sparsely populated country in Europe.

Also it is such a close-knit community that nobody locks their doors.

Iceland is one of those places that experiences four seasons in a day – one minute it can be pouring rain, and the next the sun can shining with rainbows abound, so be prepared.

Edition 05

Adventure Racing

Š Andrew Renwick

Adventure Sports Supplement

Adventure racing. That mash-up of outdoor sports – including trail running, mountain biking, paddling, and mountaineering – with lashings of navigation, is a fantastic combination of exploration with physical activity in a team-based competition.

Competent adventure racers occupy that ‘fringe-on-the-fringe’ of endurance sports; adept at multiple disciplines, able to navigate a wide variety of rugged terrain, and excelling in teamwork in adverse, high pressure situations. AR can has been considered a pastime that gives civilians the closest possible feel of a military special forces team engaged in a mission, sans weapons.

Perhaps the main draw of AR is the element of teamwork. Most AR events require teams of 2 to 4 persons to work together, through hell and high water, figuratively and sometimes literally, to go the distance – from ‘sprint’ events (still some 3-6 hours long), all the way through to week-long, non-stop epics.

© Andrew Renwick

Let’s take a look at some equipment essential to AR – items which may not immediately cross your mind as ‘must-haves’, but certainly demonstrate important aspects of teamwork in their use.

© Andrew Renwick

Adventure SOME TEAMWORK REQUIRED

Racing Life Hacks TEXT BY

Wilson Low

Usage: The team navigator’s job is done concurrently with whatever activity the team is doing at any point in a race. A wrist-borne compass, apart from being fully-functional with bearing markings and an adjustable bezel, provides ultrafast reference for the lead navigator: it can really pay off when usage of both hands is essential for an activity.

What it is: A fully functioning, magnetic direction-finding device in wrist-watch form, its very design makes it less bothersome than the traditional baseplate compass that dangles on a cord. Also, they require no batteries, unlike the current slew of GPS-enabled smartwatches.

Caution: avoid those cheap ‘button compasses’ that slip onto the wrist strap of your existing watch. They are unreliable at best, and are easily damaged and rendered useless even after gentle use.

The compass can be referenced onthe-go with both hands still on the handlebars of a mountain bike, or on a kayak paddle, or even when both hands are occupied with pushing through dense foliage. This allows the team as a whole to continue progress where previously it would have been forced to slow or stop for the navigator to perform this task safely. This makes this device a true ‘smart-watch’ for navigation without skipping a beat.

Teamwork aspect: Seamless system processes.

WATERPROOF CONTACT WRAP

What it is: Sold in book shops, it is a self-adhesive laminate in roll form. Often used to protect textbooks, it has been re-purposed to protect race-essential documents and even cardboard bike boxes from the ravages of water, mud, dust, and general abuse/crumpling – typical elements encountered in a proper adventure race.

Usage: The application of contact is where teamwork is needed. The reality is, anything document larger than an A4 sheet requires more than one person to laminate neatly. ‘Neatly’ equaling ‘no air bubbles’, ‘no creases’, and ‘no foreign objects’ between the contact and said document. ‘Contacting’ a map involves one person laying the contact out on a flat, smooth surface while another gently places each map (often already marked up with route choices, instructions, and other key annotations) on; followed by a second application on the reverse side and maybe a small touch-up with scissors – thus sealing the sheet completely from water ingress.

This, of course, sounds easier than it actually is. A properly done-up set of maps for a long multi-day event, for instance, makes map-reading and referencing of key info a breeze, and will prevent the AR equivalent of “the dog ate my homework” scenarios when conditions get wet or dirty.

Teamwork aspects: Cooperation and tidiness.

Issue 05: Adventure Racing

THE ULTRALIGHT TENT

What it is: A necessary evil for longdistance and expedition-length ARs, the ultralight tent comes in various shapes and designs. The main requirements are that it meets certain dimensions typically mandated by race organisers, and should

be able to fit the entire team in the event of an ‘emergency bivy’ (the setting up of the tent for safety- or medical-related scenarios).

guylines) can be distributed amongst team members equitably. The set-up process itself is certainly easier if everyone in the team cooperates.

The minimum tent surface area or weight usually implies a 2-person tent, and many competitive teams, in the interest of weight saving, adopt a hardline interpretation of this rule, choosing the lightest weight configuration within the regulations – often at the expense of comfort.

The occupation of the tent itself can be a flashpoint: imagine the indignity of squeezing 4 adults – often dirty, likely damp, and perhaps reeking of days-old body odour – into a fabric enclosure meant for 2! Spooning is common, which is actually a welcome relief in cold conditions; although teams inevitably have to put up with the odd eye poke, elbow jab, or unintentional groping. This is where it pays to have forgiving teammates that wholly embrace the camaraderie that can only be borne of overnighting in the harshest and most cramped of conditions.

Usage: The lighter the tent, the less parts there are – which can be convenient in terms of quick assembly or dismantling.

But such shelters provide scant – if any – protection in the worst conditions. More weather-hardy tents will weigh more due to more durable materials and hardware.

And then it becomes a matter of how its component parts (fly, shell, poles, pegs,

Teamwork aspects: Physical confidence and understanding.

© Andrew Renwick

What it is: The mainstay of any team effort to maintain continuous forward movement, a typical tow line consists of an inexpensive 1.5 to 2.0m length of 4 or 5mm elastic bungee cord.

With a mini accessory carabiner tied to each end, this simple device can be attached to the backpack of a stronger team member and be used to tow along slower teammates who would otherwise be left behind on a long uphill, in a stiff headwind, or during a strenuous push to catch or stay ahead of a rival team.

Although the aforementioned description is optimised for foot travel, a bungee can also be fashioned for towing systems on mountain bikes and on kayaks.

Usage: The political economy of team interaction concerning the use of tow lines can be a thesis-worthy study in itself. To keep things simple, AR teams need to put down their pride and admit that the tow line should be used more often than not.

This is not only when a known weaker teammate needs help, but also when it is discovered that a previously reliable teammate comes up short of the rest of the team’s expectations… and needs to be towed in turn.

A simple voting system is sometimes put in place for 4-person teams whereby, if at least 2 people in the team agree that the tow line needs to be used on a slower teammate (regardless of said teammate’s refusals), then it has to be used without further protest. Acceptance of help does not denote weakness, but forward thinking; no-one needs to feel bad or make their teammate feel bad about being ‘off the pace’ and requiring some recovery for a stretch – an unavoidable part of endurance sport. Overall team morale will be maintained, recovery initiated, and speed regained as a result.

Teamwork aspect: Selflessness.

We have explored the various ways teamwork manifests itself in the arena of adventure racing. How can your AR team get faster simply by putting aside one’s ego, being willing to take the extra effort, and thinking as a team instead of as individuals?

© Andrew Renwick

Wilson Low has been involved with adventure racing (AR) since 2001, competing in races across 5 continents and myriad environments, from sprint-distance to stage to expedition-length formats. A multiple champion at local AR events, an Ironman veteran, a Commando officer during National Service, and well-versed in instructing and coaching endurance and adventure sports as a career, Wilson is part of the Kinetik Edge Adventure Team.

RUNNING THE NUMBERS:

Tracking Interval Training Unless you’re one of the lucky few people who has time to train professionally, chances are you’re a busy, urban athlete who has to juggle their hectic work and training schedules simultaneously.

For many of us, we have an idealised notion of how our training will happen,

and we assume we’ll carve out the time to make it work.

The reality is, unless you’re one of the lucky few with the surplus leisure time to really train professionally, you’re going to have to simply make the most of whatever training time you do have.

Kiyomi is a Singapore-based single mother, entrepreneur and avid runner. A self-professed workaholic, she can also often be seen participating at numerous marathons both local and overseas.

I increase my pace with each KM, running at an intensity that’s higher than race pace, so that my body recognizes that pace.

When I do normal splits, I aim to have roughly the same pace/KM throughout my run, but for me what’s more important is maintaining a steady feel to my run, heart rate, etc. That’s good practice for longer races, and that’s an advantage of having a GPS-enabled fitness tracker that lets you see your run data superimposed over your route map.

Usually, as part of my warm-up routine I try to run my single-fastest KM early on, to mimic the ideal, fast-start I want to aim for in a real race.

If I do negative splits, I break my runs into sets of 3-5km each, alternating higherlower, higher-lower pace, as that allows my body to have an elevated exertion level over the duration of an entire workout – at the type of pace the body couldn’t otherwise sustain over 10km+ non-stop (even if I could, I’d be too wiped out to train again the following day), so I break it up over blocks, so I can recover and repeat.

Alternating between higher and lower pace, you teach your body to have an elevated exertion over the duration of an entire workout. Here, metrics are invaluable, because they allow me to understand in a deeper way, where on my route I’m struggling, where I’m exerting harder, and where I need to focus my training effort. And having that knowledge is important, since improving as a runner is often about overcoming psychological barriers, not just physical ones, meaning useful, real-time data is key.

ADVANTAGES OF FITBIT FITNESS TRACKING

ABOUT KIYOMI

While I’m not a professional athlete, as a keen runner who is looking to keep improving, I needed to recognise early on in my running career that my training is limited by the fact that I’m time-poor. This doesn’t change the fact that I have running goals (like a sub 4-hour marathon time), and need to find inspiration to reach them.

It simply means I need to be smart about how I approach them – in terms of how and when I budget my limited training time.

Due to my work and family commitments, I find the best and often only time I can reliably train every day is from 5-6am. It’s not ideal, but I’ve made it my routine.

INTERVAL TRAINING

Due to my time constraints, I focus on interval training and either maintaining good splits (ie. aiming to have consistent KM times throughout my runs), or sometimes doing negative splits – meaning

The combination of integrated GPS and automatic, continuous, wrist-based heart rate tracking in the Fitbit Surge gives me real-time workout stats like pace, distance, calories burned, heart rate intensity and target zones to make the most out of my training. This allows me to see in real time how I am performing and bring my heart rate up to my threshold level, and then back down to my recovery heart-rate level.

By tracking my sleep patterns, the device also becomes a tool that allows me to make better decisions in terms of recovery, especially from more strenuous workouts – and best of all, the Fitbit itself tells me when I need to recover (or not). And this helps me to plan my training sessions better, which is critical given my demanding schedule.

SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL

MONGOLIA AIRLINES’ 60TH ANNIVERSARY IMAGES BY MIAT This year marks the 60th anniversary of MIAT Mongolian Airlines. And when you consider Mongolia’s sheer size, at 1.5 million square kilometres, it becomes obvious what a huge role the airline plays in travel, trade and national development.

MIAT’s grown from just 2 aircraft in the 1940s, to regular international services to Germany, Russia, South East Asia and Hong Kong. Since launching their direct Hong Kong – Ulaanbaatar flight in 2011, Mongolia has steadily grown more popular among Hong Kong adventure-travellers.

operators to offer specific promotions to fly to Mongolia, for people in Hong Kong.

We try to tailor these to the season, such as last year’s ski resort specials. A big part of making that work is educating the trade through seminars, familiarization trips, etc., so they really understand Mongolian, and can help their customers build amazing holidays.

Based on the interview with the CEO of Mongolian Airlines, to match with the celebration with the 60th anniversary, below are some of the comments and plans that the CEO make to welcome more travellers to fly with the airline.

In the short-term, offering great fares to a great destination is a big part. But the in-flight experience is just as important.

We pride ourselves on our strong safety record, and our Skytrax rating, and are currently modernizing our fleet with new generation aircraft and upgrading our offering of in-flight entertainment – a process that’s ongoing, but should be complete in the near future.

Does Mongolian Airlines have any plans to increase flights from Hong Kong?

Especially across different season, beyond peak periods like summer and Nadaam?

Mongolia’s unique nomadic lifestyle, diversity of landscape and four seasons make it attractive for eco- and adventuretravel, and we understand that as the longest-running airline in Mongolia. We began Hong Kong operations 5 years ago, not as a point-to-point destination, but as our main gateway to SEA and the Pacific.

Since then we have increased our flight frequency from 2 to 5 flights per week, and will start daily flights in summer 2017, as we definitely want to cater for growing tourist demand.

Travel is competitive. Are there plans to offer special promo fares for Hong Kong travellers, to Mongolia?

Yes, we are currently working with local and international travel agents and

Besides adding daily flights in 2017, what else is Mongolian Airlines doing to improve the travel experience?

In the medium term, we plan to further expand our flight network to SEA and increase frequency along existing routes to offer our customers really flexible itineraries.

What role does the airline want to play in building Mongolia as a destination?

Building connections is very important to promote our landlocked country as a destination, and this is a key part of what we (as a national flag carrier) must do.

Whether it’s at major industry trade shows like ITB in Germany, JATA in Japan or ITE right here in Hong Kong; consumers may not have seen it, but Mongolia was even the partner country of ITB in 2015.

For travellers, we support wildlife projects to raise awareness and opportunities for eco-travel, and coordinate closely with various Mongolian organizations to create

opportunities for local communities in Mongolia to get involved and benefit from tourism. Ultimately, we understand that customers put trust in us when they decide to fly with us, and that the first moment of their Mongolian adventure starts when they board, and ends when we bring them back home safely. A big part of our traditional nomadic Mongolian culture is our hospitality. How we welcome guests to our home, care for them while they stay with us, and keep them safe in an often harsh environment.

Beyond air fares, are you working on any other offers to entice Hong Kong travellers to come to Mongolia?

MIAT Mongolian Airlines is the shortest and most convenient way to reach Mongolia from Hong Kong. Our first five years between Mongolia and Hong Kong have been a success, and as demand grows, we want to play our part - for instance, we’re currently offering 3-day, 2-night packages to Ulaanbaatar for departures until 31 Dec 2016 for just HKD$3,688+* * Terms and conditions apply

GETTING THERE

MIAT Mongolian Airlines offers 4 weekly departures from Hong Kong to Ulaanbaatar, with a flight time of 4hours and HKSAR passport holders qualify for visa free for stays of 14 days. For more information, visit http://www.miat.com. In addition, PAM Holidays - the representative of MIAT in Hong Kong has various packages available for travellers with different interest. For more information, please visit www.pamholidays.com Email: pkg@pam.com.hk Tel: 2830 4888

Located in Quang Binh province in the central part of Vietnam lies one of the world’s largest caves – so large that it has its own localised weather system. Despite being discovered by a local named Ho Khanh in 1991, this cave was only recently surveyed and explored by the British Cave Research Association in 2009. It is over 5km long and its largest cavern is over 200m tall and 150m wide – to give an idea of its size, a 747 could fly through its largest cavern.

Son Doong Cave, or Hang Son Doong meaning ‘Mountain River Cave’ is named after the river ‘Rao Thuong’ which runs through the cave system.

The cave, although only partially cutoff from the outside jungle, has its own ecosystem and unique localised weather. Within the cave, explorers have found different species of birds, monkeys and snakes, as well as wildlife which were previously unknown to Vietnam, and it is believed there are still numerous species yet to be discovered thanks to the presence of ancient fossils that have adorned the passages for millions of years.

© Aidan Lyon

VIETNAM’S SON DOONG CAVE

© Aidan Lyon

ACCESSING THE CAVES

Son Doong is located roughly in the centre of Vietnam along the border with Laos, situated within the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, itself a UNESCO site noteworthy as the oldest karst system in Asia, having been formed around 400 million years ago.

A trip to see the cave system requires 4-5 days, trekking deep into the remote jungle of Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park, where you’ll cross river valleys and witness incredible cave formations along the way.

Situated roughly in central Vietnam near the Laotian border, the closest town to the cave is Dong Hoi, which can be reached

by bus, train, or taxi. The journey begins with a two-hour trek down into thick jungle and along a stream to arrive at Ban Doong village (pop. 40); all visitors must pass through here in order to reach Son Doong.

This village is almost entirely cut off from the outside world and still practise a culture which has been relatively unchanged for hundreds of years.

From there, the hike continues for another two hours (6km) to the entrance of Hang En Cave – home to thousands of swiftlets – where a further 30-minute trek into the cavern will lead you to the first campsite.

From here, the entrance to Son Doong Cave requires an 80m descent using ropes and safety lines.

TEXT BY Julian Rosario

EXPLORING SON DOONG’S DOLINES

The beginning of Son Doong starts with a river crossing, which is passable only when the water level is low, otherwise it becomes impossible to make your way into the heart of the cave.

With millions of years to develop, the slow-dripping water from the Son Doong’s looming ceilings has formed large stalactites and stalagmites, making for a truly mesmerizing sight; the cave’s most notable stalagmite is the ‘Hand of Dog’ (named after its resemblance to a dog paw), quite possibly the world’s largest at 70m tall, found early on in the cave system in front of a large opening where light streams through.

A few hundred meters ahead will be your first campsite inside the cave, just before the climb to the first doline; otherwise known as a sinkhole, a doline is when the

ground gives way and collapses inwards.

In this case, this area of the ceiling was no longer able to hold its own weight and has crumbled down.

As you progress along the cave, you will reach the first major doline, named ‘Watch Out for Dinosaurs’. There are 2 large dolines in Son Doong, with the other one being the ‘Garden of Edam’.

The first doline is connected to the ‘Rat Run’, which is only a couple of hundred metres long and peppered with a few steep climbs. It’s more popularly known as the ‘Green Gours’, a great photo-op spot where water droplets have formed incredible structures over millennia – in this case, a magnificent set of step-like formations – on the cave floor due to the fact that the area has not seen any major flooding over the years, leaving it almost untouched by the elements.

Exiting from the ‘Rat Run’, next is the second and much larger doline, the ‘Garden of Edam’. This doline dwarfs the first, measuring roughly 160m wide and 200m tall.

The opening allows plenty of sunlight and rain into the cave system, creating a perfect environment for the growth of a spectacular, vertical jungle.

Expect to be hiking through bushes here, as the foliage is ever changing due to the harsh elements this area experiences during the rainy season. After traversing through the jungle and down the other side of the doline, you will set up camp with a view into the Garden of Edam. © Aidan Lyon

© Aidan Lyon

From here on, headlamps are required, as the next portion of the cave is pitch black. Completely desolate with no greenery, the Passchendaele section is nonetheless home to some very impressive stalagmites, and deeper within, hidden at the back of the cave, lies the Lake of Son Doong. This lake is not actually connected to the Rao Thuong river, which leaves experts wondering where exactly this water came from.

You’ll have to paddle across the lake to reach the next – and final – point: the

aptly named ‘Great Wall of Vietnam’, a large 60m wall of muddy calcite. However, the lake is not always present, and at times, you’ll find instead a large expanse of mud, or Passchendaele, which you can choose to waddle through during the dry season between May and July.

From here, the journey ends, as you make your way back to the first doline via a slightly different route through a small oxbow passage above the underground river.

© Aidan Lyon

TOURING THE CAVES

Being relatively new, Son Doong is still in immaculate condition with extremely limited tours – and permits – running each year.

So far, the only tour operator licensed to guide visitors through this cave system is Oxalis Adventure Tours (http://oxalis.com. vn), who run both cave expedition and photography tours (5 days each, from US$3,00 per trip), led by members of the British Cave Research Association.

The cave can only be tackled between February and August; it’s closed from September to January due to the treacherous flooding in the wet season. The earliest expedition is only available in 2017, as their 2016 departures are all full up.

Getting there is no walk in the park and involves 50km of jungle and mountain trekking, traversing strong river currents, and climbing 80m using ropes and harnesses, meaning participants have to be very fit to tackle the expedition.

AIRLINE INSIGHTS Bid for an upgrade: Those who don’t have enough mileage to upgrade can check out Plusgrade, Optiontown or SeatBoost – auction sites that let you bid for an upgrade to Business or First Class for a small top-up fee. For a few hundred dollars, you may get an upgrade that would have cost at least twice your ticket fare. Many carriers work with these upgrade sites/apps, including Qantas, Lufthansa, and Cathay Pacific.

Plan for weather changes: Travellers are not provided with a hotel room if flights are cancelled or overly delayed due to weather, as it’s beyond the airline’s control.

© Aidan Lyon

For those with limited time or who prefer less strenuous hikes, there are other cave systems that are easier to access in the area, including the Tu Lan system and the Hang Va system.

Son Doong is accessible via Dong Hoi, which is serviced by regular flights from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

z

aspects – for example, if an airline goes bust, you get your money back. However, if you booked via a third party site, you may not be able to make a claim because the third party was only contracted to provide the tickets and not the flight.

Airline employee tickets: Airlines basically let their employees and their families fly for free with “ID tickets” (Industry Discount), meaning they only pay taxes and fees. While these are stand-by tickets (not a guaranteed seat), the free ticket applies not only with their own airline, but with every airline in any alliance. Family members don’t need to travel with the employee either.

Pull up the armrest: Most aircraft armrests can

You get more customer protection buying directly from the airline: When booking flights

be raised, with the exception of the one next to the aisle. However, there is a small button in a divot on the underside of the armrest that allows you to raise it (it may not actually be allowed though).

Booking via credit card covers you for some

uncommon to find airlines adjusting their flight arrival times so that they can have a better record of on-time arrivals. For example, they would say a flight takes 2 hours, when it would take less than that in reality.

online via a third party site, you lose a lot of the rights afforded to you in the airline’s contract of carriage. In many airlines, their liability may be limited in terms of errors in timetables or fares which are provided by third parties.

Airlines pad their flight timings: It’s not

SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL

EXPLORING MAURITIUS Situated in the south-west region of the Indian Ocean, at about 2,000 km from the East African coast, Mauritius is often compared to other islands like Seychelles, Reunion Island and Maldives when it comes to luxury getaways.

While all these islands – collectively marketed as the ‘Vanilla Islands’ – have very similar weather and beaches, Mauritius is the only country that isn’t made up of a collection of small, scattered islands. This means that getting around Mauritius doesn’t require hopping onto planes or ferries to get around the country.

Much of Mauritius is a highland plateau ringed with the jagged edges of a longgone volcano cone, while its white-sand beaches are fringed by shallow lagoons thanks to the surrounding barrier reef. The most dramatic area is the country’s southwest, which is home to dramatic gorges, waterfalls, and the country’s last bastion of virgin forest.

BEACHES

The main draw of Mauritius is undoubtedly its beaches. These are generally classified into 2 areas: the north (around Grand Baie) and the east (around Belle Mare). Other pockets of beaches include Le Morne (Southwest), Bel Ombre (South), and Flic en Flac/Tamarin (west), each with a different personality and crowd.

KITESURFING

As an island surrounded by a reef, Mauritius has plenty of lagoons protected from large crashing waves, creating large areas of flat water that are ideal for kitesurfing. In addition, there are ‘kitesurf-friendly’ resorts, and kitesurf operators usually offer short, 2-hour sessions, or full 6 hour lessons.

The most exciting time for kitesurfing is during winter (May to November), when the consistent trade winds from the east reach 15-30 knots, making it an ideal destination for kite freestyle and wave enthusiasts.

Due to the favoured southeast winds, most of the kitesurf areas are located on Mauritius’s South and east coast.

DIVING

Mauritius is encircled by a barrier reef, meaning you can find a huge variety of diving here: coral reefs with abundant marine life, drop-offs decorated with gorgonian

fans, unique rock formations, underwater caverns, as well as 18th century shipwrecks.

In addition to tropical fishes, divers can spot pelagic species, in addition to sharks, dolphins and sperm whales.

The attractive sites can be found all around the island, rather exclusively behind the coral reefs. The marine park of blue bay is famous for its various corals and different species of underwater life. The diving areas include the northwest (Tombeau Bay and beyond), southwest (Le Morne to Flic en Flac), and the east (Belle Mare to Mahebourg).

NATURE HIKES

The island’s core is a highland plateau located about 600m above sea level, which is surrounded by a broken ring of mountain ranges that are home to the mountains of Piton de la Petite Riviere Noire (828m) and Pieter Both (823m). To the North, this plateau slopes towards the coast from 300m high, while in the southwest, it’s about 600m, creating a dramatic series of gorges that hide several streams and rivers.

There are a number of good hiking destinations, including the Moka range (near Port Louis) and the Grand Port (southwest).

Peaks range from 480m to 828m, with a mix of easy and challenging trails.

Some favourites include Le Pouce (811m), a relatively easy hike which offers spectacular views of Port Louis, and Lion Mountain (480m) in the southeast, which is a half-day trek with stunning lagoon views from the summit.

GOLF

For those who fancy a game of golf, Mauritius has more than 10 courses to choose from ranging from 9-hole courses to championship 18-hole courses. In fact, Mauritius was named “Golf Destination of the Year – Africa, Gulf States & Indian Ocean” at the IAGTO GOLF AWARDS 2016. The courses here offer challenging obstacles coupled with breathtaking oceanside settings, from the Bernard Langer-designed Ile aux Cerfs (located on its own lagoon island) to the oldest golf club in the Southern Hemisphere, the Mauritius Gymkhana Club.

For more about attractions and activities on Mauritius, please visit www.tourism-mauritius.mu.

GETTING THERE

Air Mauritius offers direct services to Mauritius twice per week with a flying time about 9 hours and 45 minutes.

For more information on Air Mauritius www.airmauritius.com

ADRENALINE ISLAND

TEXT BY Julian Rosario

At only a 3.5-hour flight from Hong Kong, Phuket offers plenty of outdoor activities for Hong Kongbased travellers. The island is known for its adventure racing and diving, including dive locations beyond Phuket, such as Phi Phi and Racha Yai. With the added bonus of being relatively inexpensive, Phuket is the ideal location for a long weekend getaway.

LAGUNA PHUKET INTERNATIONAL MARATHON Now in its 23rd year, the Laguna Phuket International Marathon is held on the 4th and 5th of June, and is the island’s biggest race, attracting competitors from all over the world. Although not a points race, the marathon draws runners in because of its ideal holiday location and scenic course, which follows next to the rainforests and beaches of Phuket.

The run itself is not overtly challenging – with no huge hill climbs the main difficulty faced is the extreme heat, something

which most regional racers are already accustomed to. Both the marathon and half-marathon trail follow the course out of Laguna, and head through scenic local villages, as well as pineapple and rubber plantations.

For runners looking to go beyond the normal marathon course, the subsequent Laguna Phuket Triathlon on the 20th of November 2016 follows roughly the same route, featuring a 1.8km swim, 55km bike and a 12km run.

Another notable upcoming race in Phuket is the Ironman 70.3 Thailand, happening on 18 December. For more on Thailand, visit www.tourismthailand.org/hk.

1. WATERFALL WALL

DIVING

Racha Yai plays host to a number of different dive sites, the best being Waterfall Wall, which is situated on the south side of the island. This wall dive consists of a steep 25m hard coral wall with a variety of coral species on it.

Stronger currents mean this dive site is normally drift dived by visitors. For those looking for pelagic fish, the wall is a common hunting ground for predators such as barracuda, reef sharks and tuna.

Beyond the race, for some R&R one of the best things Phuket has on offer is the diving. Between Phuket and the nearby island of Phi Phi there are a wide range of dive sites including walls, wrecks, reefs, caves and overhangs, with the only barrier to entry being your diving qualification.

Suitable for: All divers Max depth: – 25m

2. HIN MU SANG (SHARK POINT) Declared a marine sanctuary in 1992, this location is kept in pristine condition.

“Shark Point” gets its name from the numerous leopard sharks which are found lying on the seafloor - you would be extremely unlucky to not see one. The location has several multi-coloured coral species, which are in turn home to an array of tropical fish like lionfish and bannerfish.

The main downside to this site is its popularity, as it can get crowded during the peak season.

If you’re looking to escape the relative urban hustle and bustle of Phuket, then Phi Phi island is only a two-hour ferry ride away. With resort accommodations available on the island, it is a comparatively more tranquil destination than Phuket, as its main attractions are the beaches and snorkelling/dive locations.

Suitable for: Intermediate divers Max depth: – 30m

DIVING IN PHUKET

PHUKET

4. LOH SAMAH Just 30 minutes boat ride off Phi Phi’s southeast coast, Loh Samah offers a great night dive opportunity. Beyond the vast number of nocturnal sea creatures, there is a narrow canyon which divers can visit during the day. It’s not cave diving, but with its overhangs it’s as close as a less experienced diver can get. There is a variety of sea life on offer including big pelagics, turtles and eels.

It is also a great snorkelling location for non-divers.

2

Hin Mu Sang

3

PHI PHI

Secret Beach

1

Racha Yai

Maya Bay

5

Suitable for: All divers Max Depth: – 20m

6 4

Loh Samah

5. KOH BIDA NOK Off the coast of Koh Phi Phi Ley lies Koh Bida Nok, arguably one of Phi Phi’s best dive sites. It has numerous caverns and overhangs, as well as a shallow bay with a coral garden. The area attracts a number of different shark species such as leopard, nurse and black tips, as well as – if you’re lucky – the occasional hawksbill turtle having a snack on a sea sponge.

Koh Bida Nok

3. SECRET BEACH For anyone looking to explore beyond Phuket’s nightlife, Secret Beach’s afterdark diving offers a vast number of species, from octopi to mantis shrimps, making it ideal for macro-photography.

As a muck dive, do not expect amazing visibility, as the real focus is largely on the sandy floor around you, searching for interesting critters among the hundreds of resident species of fish and nudibranchs.

Suitable for: All divers Max depth: - 10m

Suitable for: All divers Max depth: – 30m

6. MAYA BAY/CAVE There are dives sites of all kinds dotted across Maya Bay. Near to shore, the coral and rock formations – home to moray eels and clown fish – are ideal for less experienced divers. Further out, the reef slopes into steep coral walls, littered with caves to explore - including the well-known Maya Cave. Nearly 20m wide at the mouth, deeper inside divers can surface within its inner, stalactitestrewn chambers. For anyone not already a certified cave diver, there are local specialists on Phi Phi to assist.

Suitable for: All divers (Maya Cave only for advanced divers) Max depth: – 22m

The Mayans do not appear to have enjoyed the beach; whether it was the sand between their toes, the salt in their hair – or the much more likely reason of defense against invasion – almost all of their major cities were built well inland.

Tulum is an exception – set on a high rock bluff overlooking the Caribbean, it has its own little beach and long arcs of palm-fringed sand.

RUIN HOPPING IN THE YUCATAN

TEXT AND IMAGES BY John Jaycock and Kaz Singer

GETTING THERE

Being set in the southeast corner of the Yucatan Peninsula, and indeed of Mexico, makes it a relatively short two hour, 120km, trip south from Cancun, the major city and gateway to the Yucatan, and a good option to begin your lesson in Mayan 101.

Buses are efficient, reliable, frequent and reasonably priced. Cancun is a major resort destination for North American and European sun-seekers and first impressions are not good. The densely packed beach hotel strip thins a little as you head south, but the resorts continue for well

over half of the journey. Thankfully, beyond Playa Del Carmen, they disappear entirely.

caravelles on the horizon and wondering what the madness was about.

TULUM

They would soon find out. Partially through battle with the Conquistadores but mainly through introduced European diseases from which they had no immunity, the death knell would steadily ring for the native people of Central America. Whilst the Itza people, known for their great capital at Chichen Itza, would hold out until 1697, the majority of the local civilisation was gone much earlier, either wiped out or retreated south to what is now Belize and Guatemala.

Tulum Pueblo, set 3km inland, is a fairly nondescript Mexican town, but with plenty of cheap accommodation and eating choices. You can stay here and access the ruins by taxi, but a better option is to stay at one of the numerous beach bungalow options (some boasting eco-credentials) in the dunes and rocky headlands that back the beach to the south of the ruins.

The setting for the Tulum ruins is stunningly dramatic. Dark rock temples set upon the dark rock headland, a small surf tumbling in from the Caribbean and cascading white against the cliff. There may be seaweed on the beach, a seasonal occurrence, but it doesn’t seem to detract from the drama.

One can almost imagine a feather headdress-bedecked Mayan high priest gazing out in 1519 toward the sails of Spanish

RUINS

As for the ruins, Tulum is a great centre to see both the ruins there and those at Coba, 40kms to the northwest. Also try to take in the small, less visited site at Muyil, 20km south on the Chetumal road. These are impressive both for their jungle setting and the fact that you may well have them to yourselves.

A cenote is a fresh water sinkhole, often open to the sky following the ancient collapse of a limestone cave roof. Occasionally though, the roof remains in place and access is gained through a wide shaft sunk straight down into the surrounding rock and then lined with a stone or timber staircase. Always cooling and usually equipped with a rope swing or two to get your pulse racing, these could be just the reason why the Maya didn’t bother with the ocean.

As with all of the famous Mayan ruins, the earlier you arrive, the less people there will be; but at Muyil, there simply aren’t that many visitors.

The Yucatan has somewhere between 6,000 and 14,000 cenotes, many of which are open to the public, usually for a small fee.

The ‘must see’ ruins in this area include Uxmal, Ek Belem and, of course, Chichen Itza, but there are literally dozens of others.

Each visitor will know their own limit but it is possible to avoid ‘ruin fatigue’ by mixing in some of the fine parks and reserves, a bit of beach relaxation, and don’t forget those cenotes.

Mexico

which offers inventive tours that aim to combine culture, nature and a cenote visit into each of their day and half-day tours.

Combining a trip by boat into the extraordinary canals and lakes of the Sian Ka’an biosphere reserve with community Tours Sian Ka’an, based in Muyil, and a visit to the ruins can easily be done in half a day.

NORTHERN YUCATAN

There are some choice locations to base yourself for a week or more of Mayan exploration across the northern half of the Yucatan Peninsula.

Merida and Campeche are both fine choices, but also consider Valladolid which is smaller, more laid back and cheaper. Here, you can follow a small tour run by Mexigo,

MONARCH BUTTERFLY MIGRATION High on the mountainsides of the Mexican Transvolcanic Range, you can hear butterflies flitting about. The winged creatures have already journeyed some 4,500km from southern Canada to winter here, completing an annual four generational migration pattern.

Depending on when you visit, you’ll get to witness millions of Monarch butterflies arriving from or departing along their perilous annual journey northwards to the Canadian lakes where they stay until it gets too cold.

Scientists still do not understand how or why these monarch butterflies make this great migration.

To witness this annual spectacle of millions of monarch butterflies, you can begin in Mexico City, itself home to around 24

million people. It takes a couple of hours to get to the green calmness of the mountains at El Rosario Monarch Butterfly Reserve, located to the west of the city.

Butterflies like the cool air at the top of the mountains. There is a steep well-trodden path to the top which can be attempted on foot or, for a different experience, on the back of a small mountain pony (aided by guides from a local village). The journey uphill is through misty, mossy pine forest.

It doesn’t take long before a couple of orange-and-chocolate brown butterflies sweep into view. Continuing the trek upwards, millions of butterflies flutter in the sunshine and some cluster in large groups at the end of tree branches, landing and taking off with military precision. The near silent orchestra of millions of butterfly wings flapping is broken only by the occasional footfall.

The migration occurs between November and March each year; the butterflies arrive from the north by November to settle in the oyamel fir tree forests where they remain for most of the winter season. By February, the mating ritual begins, before the same generation journeys back across the border to the US and Canada.

Adult monarchs live only for 3-4 weeks, but the ones that embark on the long migration are a special ‘Methuselah’ generation born once a year near the end of the summer months. They live up to 9 months, and are the ones making the return journey to where they were born in order to breed.

Day trips can be arranged through most accommodations to the El Rosario Monarch Butterfly Reserve. Buses connect Mexico City with towns near the reserve.

Accommodation is also available at the towns along the way.

AROUND GRENADA

TEXT AND IMAGES BY Ken Berg Thanks to its nutmeg production, Grenada is widely known as the “spice isle”, but for intrepid travellers, this little country has much more to offer. And best of all, despite its beautiful beaches, hills covered in lush green forests, colourful cities and towns, waterfalls and more, it doesn’t see the overwhelming number of tourists that you will find elsewhere in the Caribbean.

WATER ACTIVITIES BEACHES

Not surprisingly for an island in the Caribbean, Grenada boasts plenty of beaches and they are all considered public property so you don’t have to worry about resorts keeping all the good spots to themselves. There are beaches everywhere whether you prefer black or white sand, large crowds for people watching or relative solitude, protected bays or big waves; the sole exception being there’s no nude beaches.

La Sagesse Beach is located a few minutes walk off the main road, and there’s little development here, making it ideal if you are looking for an easilyreached, scenic location. While not a prime snorkeling spot, it does have a small hotel that rents some beach and water equipment, as well as a good choice of restaurants.

Grand Anse is probably Grenada’s most popular beach, and is great for people watching or blending in with the crowd.

The waves are generally calm, and it is also

SCUBA DIVING

Grenada has some great diving options including reefs, walls, wrecks and even an underwater sculpture garden. In general, the water is relatively warm and clarity is good, and depending on the season, for shallow dives, a 3mm wetsuit is more than sufficient.

Sculptures Park: There are an assortment of sculptures just offshore where coral and other sea life have now made a home.

It is a an opportunity that does not exist in many other places, and is well worth checking out for just that reason. They are close to shore and easy to explore with minimal dive experience; it’s also possible to see them by snorkelling, but you can’t get as close.

Magazine Beach is a great option for snorkelling. The water is reasonably calm, although it has larger swells and a steeper drop-off than Grand Anse, and there are good reefs to explore just offshore.

Wrecks: There are a number of shipwrecks that you can check out, but many will only be accessible to more experienced divers due to depth and/or currents in the area.

The highlight for most people is the Bianca C (known as the Titanic of the Caribbean).

It also happens to be relatively shallow, making it possible for recreational divers as well.

Levera Beach This one is a little tougher to get to, and not advisable to drive to without a 4WD. The payoff is less crowds and a view of the islands to the north.

Not surprisingly, there are numerous local operators running both dive shops and courses, including Dive Grenada and Scuba Tech Dive Center.

close to many hotels as well as the capital, St. George’s, making it easy to get to.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS Belmont Estates

This fourth-generation estate dates from the 1940s, and is unique as the first owned by non-Europeans in Grenada. It remains a functioning cocoa plantation and specialises in agro-tourism, offering plantation tours in an absolutely beautiful location (US$5/person), inclusive of a cup of hot cocoa tea.

The grounds are kept in immaculate condition with several lovely gardens, as well as resident animals including redfooted tortoises, a talking parrot (who is surprisingly funny), and goats. The estate’s shop sells very good quality, locally produced chocolate, and the open-air restaurant serves some of the best meals on the island.

Grand Etang National Park

Rising to 600m as you climb towards the middle of the island is Grenada’s ecological gem, the Grand Etang National Park. There are several good hiking routes in the park, offering scenic lookouts and a bit of wildlife – including the Mona monkey (a species introduced from Africa in the 18th century), mongoose, lizards and some of the island’s best birding sites.

One of the easiest routes is the shoreline hike along Grand Etang Lake, which can take 3-4 hours for the entire circuit. The lake is one of 2 volcanic crater lakes on the island, and it’s thought to be linked

GETTING THERE

Grenada is made up of a main island (Grenada) and several smaller islands stretching to the north, known as the Grenadines. And while English is spoken by most, if not all, of the population on the main island, it is still possible to find local Creole speakers in outlying villages.

Thanks to its Caribbean climate, Grenada hovers around a near perfect 26ºC yearround, and is ideal during the dry season (Jan-May), while prices and temperatures drop during the rainy season (Jun-Nov), due to the chance of tropical storms mainly between August to October.

Grenada is serviced by daily flights from the UK, US and Canada, as well as neighbouring islands. Once on on the island, renting your own vehicle is fairly straightforward (from US$50/day); at the time of press, none of the major international rental agencies were in Grenada. A 4WD is recommended as the island’s streets are often steep, and sometime rough making extra ground clearance a necessity. If you’re not driving, local taxis and taxi-style vans ply most main routes, and are fairly inexpensive.

For more information on Grenada, visit www.puregrenada.com.

via a subterranean lava tube to Kick’em Jenny – an intriguingly named, active underwater volcano located north of the island – which causes the lake to bubble whenever “Jenny” awakes.

A longer, more difficult hike is the summit climb up Mt. Qua Qua (720m). It will take between 2.5-3 hours, and although it is a strenuous climb in spots, it offers a nice views of the rainforest – and of most of the island – on a clear day. The trail is kept in fairly good condition, but can be slippery if it has rained recently, making trekking poles a good idea.

Grenada’s main primate, the Mona monkey, is found throughout the park and despite what locals may tell you, it is best to keep a bit of a distance as they can take food or may try to grab cameras and phones. Their population is in decline due to poaching, but they remain a common sight across the park.

The top draw for waterfalls (and Grand Etang’s most popular hike) is Seven Sisters waterfall. This is a series of waterfalls (seven, in fact), but the highlights are #1 and #2 as they are very picturesque and make for a great, quick swim spot.

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Events Calendar

HONG KONG

If you have an event that you feel should be included on this page, please email us on events@sportsandtravel.com.hk

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18 Sep

Lantau Vertical www.lantauvertical.com

25 Sep

Mid-Autumn Race 2016 www.xterace.com/midautumnrace.html Trail Run 6/16km

25 Sep

Sun Hung Kai Properties Hong Kong Cyclothon www.discoverhongkong.com

25 Sep

Aqua Terra: HK Island www.terramar.hk/event Aquathon or Run 16km

25 Sep

Mid-Autumn Race 2016 www.xterace.com/page19.html

8-10 Oct Lantau Dark 45

Vertical Race 7km

www.xterace.com/lantaudark45.html

8-10 Oct 2016 FIA Formula E Hong Kong ePrix

Trail Run 6/16km Trail Night Run 23/45km

www.hkformulae.com

Racing

16 Oct

New World Harbour Race www.hkharbourrace.com

23 Oct

2016 MSIG HK50 series - Hong Kong Island www.actionasiaevents.com

5 Nov

Terry Fox Run Hong Kong www.terryfox.org/International/Run/Hong_kong

5-6 Nov HK168

www.xterace.com/hk168.html

Cycling

Swimming 1.5km Trail Hike and Run 24/50km 3/5/10km Run

Ultra trail run 33/63/168km

10 Nov

The Bloomberg Square Mile Relay www.squaremilerelay.com Relay

2 Dec

2016 - MSIG Lantau VK www.actionasiaevents.com

Trail Hike and Run 5km

4 Dec

2016 - MSIG Lantau 50 www.actionasiaevents.com

Trail Hike and Run 16/27/50km

11 Dec

Coca-Cola Running Fun 2016 www.ccrf.hk

10km Run

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