Sports+Travel Hong Kong NOV DEC 2016 by Sports+Travel Sports+Travel

NOV - DEC 2016 Free

ISSUE 48

Wildlife Issue

Â© Central African Wilderness Safaris

Zambia | Bolivia | Norway

The outdoors beckons. You are captivated by its breathtaking sights, fresh air, blue skies and endless possibilities. When you get out there you can feel the pure intensity and excitement that comes from following your passions but the allure of the outdoors is different for everyone. Outdoor Channel unlocks a rich collection of stories, personalities, challenges and motivational forces that reflect the desire to get out there and be a part of passionate communities of outdoor lifestyles and events. #WhatGetsYouOutThere? Share your favourite outdoor images and stories with us on www.facebook.com/OutdoorChannelAsia

NOV - DEC 2016 ISSUE 48

06 All Creatures Great and Small TAIWAN WILDLIFE

30 The Thriving Tundra

NORWAY'S SVALBARD ARCHIPELAGO

High and Wild

WILDLIFE IN THE ALTIPLANO

REGULARS

Welcome to the Jungle

Publisher's Note

Gear Guide

A HOKKAIDO SOJOURN

Travel Tips

Off the Beaten Path

Events

AMAZONIAN ADVENTURE

16 Kiroro Resort 18

SAFARI IN ZAMBIA & MALAWI

26 A Marine Safari

WILDLIFE CRUISES SOUTH AFRICA

28 Park Life

EXPLORING SARAWAK

SPORTS + 21

Off-Roading

OUR TEAM PUBLISHER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER FINANCE & ADMIN MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sports and Travel Limited publisher@sportsandtravel.com.hk Aaron K. Stewart astewart@sportsandtravel.com.hk Lynn Ooi

Marilyn Wong mwong@sportsandtravel.com.hk Hylda Low hlow@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Julian S. Rosario jrosario@sportsandtravel.com.hk

ADVERTISING SALES ADVERTISING SALES AUSTRALIA HONG KONG INDONESIA MALAYSIA PHILIPPINES THAILAND

advertise@sportsandtravel.com.hk Sabine Senne ssenne@sportsandtravel.com.hk Chris Ng cng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Akram Razak arazak@sportsandtravel.com.hk Sukdev Gill sgill@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Jil North jnorth@sportsandtravel.com.hk Jesse Ting jting@sportsandtravel.com.hk

CONTRIBUTORS

SPECIAL THANKS

Jethro Wegener Ken Berg Linda Cash Wilson Low

A2A Safaris Kiroro Resort Sarawak Tourism Board Taiwan Tourism Bureau Hong Kong Office Visit Svalbard

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Publisher's Note

05 © Central African Wilderness Safaris

Dear Fellow Travellers, When it comes to adventure of a lifetime, few come close to experience a once-in-a-lifetime wildlife excursion. Whether you’re witnessing a wildebeest migration or red crab spawning, the sheer numbers can be overwhelming. But so can spotting an incredibly rare wildlife like polar bears. It all depends on your cup of tea.

In South Africa, check out some marine action: from great white sharks to penguins and sardines, it’ll give you a different perspective of the country’s wildlife. If it’s classic safaris you’re looking for, check out Zambia for your Big 5 game watching, but minus the crowds and the 4WD.

We kick off the issue with a visit to Taiwan, where the wildlife can be surprisingly plentiful. From butterfly migration to its abundant colourful birdlife, there’s always something to look out for.

We close the issue with a feature on Svalbard – no matter when you visit, there’s always something different to see. In winter, it’s the northern lights, and in summer, polar bears and seals emerge from the pack ice.

We then head to Bolivia, where the high altitudes of the Altiplano may seems lifeless, but it is home to thousands of flamingoes, in addition to its llama species and other desert dwellers. Further north in Peru, the Amazon is home to a rich diversity of wildlife; from jaguars to capybaras and howler monkeys, there’s no shortage of wildlife to watch out for.

Meanwhile, this issue’s Sports+ segment features some off-roading travel tips. Until then, Happy Trails! Sports+Travel Ltd

SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL

Mikado Pheasant

Taiwan Blue Magpie

Taiwan may be famous for its mountainous landscape, friendly people, and cuisine, but there’s more to this small country than meets the eye. Wildlife-watching has never been part of Taiwan’s raison d’etre, but the keen-eyed will find more than a few surprises in the wild.

TAIWAN WILDLIFE

BIRDING

Taiwan has one of the highest concentrations of endemic birds in Asia, in addition to the number of migratory species that congregate seasonally along its coasts. Endemics The best birding spots for endemic species are usually in the mountainous regions, including Yangminshan, Aowanda forest, and Wulai – all of which are equipped with birdwatching trails. You can often spot these year-round. Most of the endemic species feature striking plumage, including the Mikado Pheasant, the Formosan Magpie, and the Swinhoe’s Pheasant. The most soughtafter sighting is of the Mikado Pheasant,

with its red-ringed eye and long striped tail, which is depicted on the $1,000 bill of the New Taiwan dollar. Endemic to mountainous regions in the central part Taiwan (at elevations of 2,000m-3,000m), the elusive birds can sometimes be spotted amongst bamboo groves and dense shrubs. Another colourful resident is the Taiwan Blue Magpie (also known as the Formosan Magpie), which is far easier to spot (as it seems accustomed to people) if you head to Yangmingshan National Park, or other parts of Taiwan with elevations of 300 to 1,200m. This bright blue bird sports a black head, and a long eye-catching tail. Swinhoe’s Pheasant is another mountain dweller, found in forest habitats up to 2,300m in elevation. With a striking blue plumage and bright red wattle, these pheasants are regularly spotted along the roadsides at the Daxueshan National Forest Recreation Area.

Other rare endemic species include the black-and-white mottled Taiwan Partridge, as well as smaller arboreal species like the Taiwan Rosefinch, Alishan Bush Warbler, and Taiwan Barbet with its 5-coloured face. Migratory Migratory species of birds are normally found in coastal areas, particularly around the Yilan swamplands, Cigu marsh (Tainan), Kenting and the island of Penghu. Most of the wetlands will host a variety of waterfowl like ducks, cormorants, and spoonbills. In Kenting, up to 30,000 migrating hawks have been seen swarming the skies during the Pingtung Hawk Migration Festival in October. These include the Grey Frog Hawk and Grey-faced Buzzard Eagle, in addition to other birds of prey. September to May is the best period for migratory birds. For more on birding, visit www.birdingintaiwan.com.

Just off the east coast of Taiwan, the nutrient-rich Black Current (kuroshio) and coastal rivers meet, bringing with it the migratory fish which attract whales and dolphins. This makes the coastal area from Turtle Island (just off Jiaoxi near Yilan city) to the south of Hualien city an ideal location to hop on whale- and dolphinwatching tours. The waters between the mainland and Turtle Island are an important fishing ground, thanks to the bubbling volcanic seabed that provides nutrients for marine life which in turn attract marine mammals like spinner dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, pygmy killer whales and false killer whales that feed on them. Whale-watching tours from this area will also drop by Turtle Island – a protected island where only 250 visitors are allowed per day.

Further south along the coast, several ports – like Shiti, Chenggong and Fugang – also offer whale- and dolphin-watching tours. A wide variety of dolphins and whales may be spotted here, including Wright’s dolphins, Freund’s dolphins, Spotted dolphins, as well as tiger whales, false killer whales and pygmy killer whales. During spring and summer, sperm whales, killer whales and pilot whales are prevalent. If you’re lucky, you may catch sight of the rare fin whale (in spring) and the beaked whale. The best time to visit would be from April to the end of August, when the waves are calmer. For more info on whale watching, visit www.whalewatching.org.tw.

Taiwan

WHALE AND DOLPHIN WATCHING

DIVING

While Taiwan may not feature much on the dive scene, the island does have some interesting underwater life, ranging from easy shore dives (in Longdong Bay near Taipei) to exciting drift dives further south. Most of the best dive sites are scattered along the island’s southern coasts (Kenting), and at outlying islands like Green and Orchid which offer more pristine waters – and coral life – due to their distance from the mainland. Experienced divers come to Green Island especially to dive with hammerhead sharks, which can be found off the island’s southern tip. The hammerheads found here are mostly scalloped and smooth hammerheads that travel from the Philippines to Japan, congregating around Green Island as a rest stop from January to March every year. Large schools can sometimes be spotted. As the dive depth is 30m-37m with strong currents, only advanced divers with 50+

advance-logged dives are allowed on the excursion with Green Island’s Blue Safari Diving Center (a National Geographic Dive Center). Both Orchid Island and Kenting are home to coral reefs, in addition to a couple of wrecks. Diving is possible year-round, with April to July being the flying fish season. The best visibility is during the dry season during the northeast monsoon (October to April). Closer to Taipei, the northeast coast around Longdong Bay is the most popular place for snorkelling and diving. Diveable year-round (except when waves come from the northeast), it can get crowded at weekends and in summer. There are reef formations just offshore where you can spot tropical fish like lionfish, sea urchins, puffer fish, and schools of minnows. A little further is the ‘squid nest’, where you may be able to spot hatching squid – there are also squid-fishing boats moored at the harbour here.

FIREFLIES

When the sun goes down, the forests around Alishan comes alive with the presence of fireflies. Active from spring to early summer (April to June), you can catch sight of these luminescent creatures at several viewing points, including Ruili, Guanghua and Fenqihu. During this time, you can also catch sight of blooming cherry blossoms, rhododendrons, and magnolias. Ruoh Lan Resort at Ruili has a firefly viewing area and trail, while at the scenic Guanghua-Yima Creek Recreational Farm (1,000m), large areas of bamboo and cedar forests attract plenty of fireflies. Another good place for fireflies is in Fenqihu, where you can see them until late autumn; the Cedar Wooden Plank Trail allows you to view these insects up to 9pm in summer, with appearances much shorter in late autumn.

Taiwan is home to over 400 species of butterfly, and in the 1960s used to export around 10 million of these winged creatures per year. These days, conservation efforts are in place to protect these butterflies; designated ‘butterfly valleys’ now attract butterflies by the millions, making for an amazing natural spectacle. One of only 2 species of winter migrating butterflies in the world is the Taiwanese Purple Crow (the other being the Mexican Monarch), and you can find them congregating in the gorges in Maolin District’s Purple Butterfly Valley – the butterflies’ winter home. Here, you can catch sight of many different species of Crow butterflies (Dwarf Crows, Striped Blue Crows, double-branded Black Crows, Chocolate Tigers, etc) in addition to 9 species of Milkweed butterflies. The best season to catch these butterflies

is between November and March (peaking from December to February). The other popular spot is the Yellow Butterfly Valley, home to over 100 species of butterfly including the namesake yellow emigrant butterfly, the most commonly seen species.

Taiwan

BUTTERFLIES

Breeding in spring, the population explodes in summer (July) when half a million individuals can be seen swarming the surrounding forest and open riverbed. The valley is 7km northeast of the city of Meinong, where you can rent bicycles to the valley. Closer to Taipei, Yangmingshan National Park hosts the annual butterfly festival from May to June, when groups of mainly milkweed butterflies flutter about the Mt. Datun area.

OTHER WILDLIFE

While harder to spot, Taiwan does have native terrestrial wildlife like deer, bear, and martens. In terms of deer populations, the small Formosan serow (endemic to Taiwan) and Reeve’s muntjac (also known as the barking deer) can be found in mountainous regions (up to 2,000m) on the eastern half of the island. The latter can sometimes be heard by mountain trekkers thanks to their distinctive ‘bark’. Since their reintroduction over 30 years ago, Kenting National Park’s herd of sika deer now numbers between 1,000 and 2,000. Characterised by their spotted bodies and large antlers (males), these deer were once hunted for their velvet. Other rarer wildlife include the iconic Formosan black bear (the country’s only bear species) which can be found in the mountains, and the Formosan yellowthroated marten which can be spotted across a wide range of habitats.

The Atacama Desert in Chile is the driest non-polar desert in the world, covering a 1,000 km strip of land sandwiched between the Pacific coast and the Andes mountains; its jagged, rust-coloured ravines, volcano-topped horizons and vast salt pans often draw comparisons with Mars. In fact, this region is being used by NASA to test instruments for future Mars missions. Travellers to this high altitude, extremely dry desert usually come to view the astronomical wonders or spectacular scenery to be found there, and will not disappointed since the scenery highlights such as Valle de la Luna, Valle de la Muerte, El Tatio Geysers, Lagunas Altiplanicas, and the Salar de Atacama are most certainly stunning, and the night skies are a wonderment to behold. But no matter how high and dry the desert may be, it is certainly not lifeless, and the opportunities for spotting its unique wildlife abound.

WILDLIFE IN THE ALTIPLANO CHILEAN ALTIPLANO

High on the Chilean Altiplano (Spanish for ‘High Plain’), an easy 90km drive from the tourist centre of San Pedro De Atacama, are the Altiplanic Lagoons (Lagunas Altiplanicas), perched at over 4,000m above sea level. Culpeo The flat, scrub covered desert is home to the culpeo (Andean Fox or Wolf) which are often seen travelling up to the high altitude lakes. These are the largest species of fox in South America, characterised by its a reddish brown coat (with grey on their backs), and a long, bushy tail. Keep an eye out for them on the roadside, as the culpeo tend to frequent the roadside, perhaps scavenging for road kill. Camelids Llamas, and the smaller-sized alpacas, can also be seen in small herds wandering and grazing the desert scrubland. While usually spotted from a distance, it is not uncommon for them to cross the road as a

herd, and once they start, they don’t want to stop. Keep alert for herds approaching the road or the local culpeo might be in for a feast. Llamas and alpacas have been domesticated since the time of the Incas thousands of years ago. While these two species may be the well known camelids of South America, they’re not the only ones to be found in this region. Family groups of the smaller vicuña are commonly seen grazing the shoreline grasses around the Altiplano lagoons. Vicuñas are related to llama, and are thought to be ancestors to the domesticated alpaca. Vicuña wool is exceptionally high quality, and extremely expensive since the vicuña live in the wild and are difficult to domesticate (they are also escape artists). They produce only a small amount of wool – about 0.5kg of wool per animal per year. You are only likely to see vicuñas from a distance, as they are very shy and skittish.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Linda Cash

From San Pedro de Atacama and the Chilean Altiplano, the main transport route across to Bolivia crosses the Andes mountain range, taking you through mountain passes climbing as high as 5,700m – meaning the weather can get extremely cold. The main reason for taking this trip for most travellers is to cross the spectacular Salar de Uyuni – the world’s largest salt flat – which is so large, it can be viewed from space. The trip is not all spectacularly desolate salt flats though, as even in this cold, high altitude, dry desert there is wildlife. Viscacha Here in the desert at elevations between 2,500m and 5,100m, you can find the awesomely cute viscacha sunning themselves on rock outcrops in the otherwise flat desert. The guides usually leave the viscacha “offerings” of fresh vegetable leaves to encourage them to remain approachable. Viscacha are a type of chinchilla and look like large bushy brown rabbits with long, coiled tails. Living in underground complexes, they feed on grasses, moss, and lichens, and spend most of the day perched on a rock sunbathing, grooming or resting . Flamingoes The wildlife stars of the Bolivian Altiplano are, of course, the bright pink flamingoes that are found around the Laguna Colorada (Red Lagoon). Three of the six species of

flamingoes can be found in the Laguna Colorada area: Andean, Chilean, and the James’s which dominates the area. Laguna Colorado is located within the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, and is a RAMSAR Wetland-listed lagoon. Its shallow waters are tinted red by mineral sediments and red algae, and it is through eating the algae that the flamingoes gain their unique colouration.

Chile/Bolivia

SALAR DE UYUNI

While flamingoes can be seen in large numbers at many of the Altiplano lakes in Bolivia and Chile, those lakes are totally eclipsed by the vast numbers of birds that congregate at Laguna Colorada. Not only are they there in vast numbers, but they appear almost oblivious to human presence, so you can get right up close and personal for that award-winning photo.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

The best place to base yourself is from the small town of San Pedro de Atacama, which lies in northeastern Chile’s arid high plateau. From here, you can also explore the Valley of the Moon (Valle de la Luna) with its lunar-like landscape that becomes more striking as the sun sets and the crags turn a fiery hue. The spectacular Death Valley (Valle de la Muerte) is another attraction, where you can go sandboarding down 100m-high dunes amidst spectacular rock formations. Also in the vicinity are the El Tatio geysers, which at 4,300m is the highest geyser field in the world where you can walk among spurting geysers, or take a short dip in the thermal pool. By night, the nearby Space (spaceobs.com) offers stargazing tours with an astronomer as you peer at the skies through one of their 10 telescopes.

GETTING THERE

San Pedro de Atacama is located 106km southeast of Calama (the nearest airport) via the paved Chile 23. Regular buses connect this small town to the rest of Chile, as well as to Salta and Jujuy in Argentina.

GEAR GUIDE

REECHO MEN’S DYNAMIC PERFORMANCE HOODED JACKET Reecho Men’s Dynamic Performance Hooded Jacket

This lightweight, stretching, wind resistance and breathable jacket with water repellent features make the perfect partner to perform during dynamic activities. Adjustable Hood with Brim for protection during windy days and the reflective details make this shield ideal for active use at night. Available at Reecho shops at HK$690.

TomTom Spark Cardio Watch (+ Music - Black – Large)

TOMTOM SPARK CARDIO WATCH

BLACK DIAMOND - ELIXIR 60 BACKPACK

Elixir 60 Backpack is a streamlined and lightweight toploader for the minimalist-minded weekend backpacker. Elixir 60 Backpack built with award-winning active suspension systems which are unparalleled in comfort, efficiency and load transfer. Since the shoulder straps and hip belt move with you, friction and hot spots are eliminated. The pack’s load stays perfectly balanced at all times, even without adjustment and allows your body to move naturally in any direction. This results in a more efficient, comfortable, longer stride that you can cover more ground, more quickly. Available at PROTREK stores at HK$1,899.

TomTom Spark Cardio + Music Watch with built in heart rate monitor allows users to get accurate heart rate information on the wrist without the need for a separate chest strap. The multisport mode enables users to adjust setting according to the activities and training. The 24/7 tracking function captures your distance, time, pace, speed and calories burnt. The watch also carries over 500 songs of music storage. TomTom Spark Cardio watch is a good companion for running, indoor and outdoor training and activities. It is waterproof up to 40m. Available at HK$2,490 at Action X, Escapade Sports, Wing Shing Photo Supplies and other electronic and digital shops.

Smartwool Women’s Ethno Graphic Crew Socks

Black Diamond Elixir 60 Backpack

SMARTWOOL - WOMEN’S ETHNO GRAPHIC CREW SOCKS

Whether you’re taking a trip around the world, or just around the block, the Ethno Graphic Crew will get you there in style. This fresh take on traditional stripes boasts all the benefits of Merino while a built-in arch support boosts stability and fit. Available at PROTREK stores at HK$189.

ULTRASPIRE ZYGOS KENICHI Columbia Titanium Women’s Heatzone 1000 Turbodown Hooded Jacket

Zygos multi-purpose adventure pack providing versatility and functionality, easy access to necessities and stable, comfortable reliable performance. Suitable for all occasions. Includes the new soft touch binding, large capacity quick stash pocket without added weight or bulk, quick attach bladder holder, new elastic mesh on quick stash pockets featuring more stretch, added capacity, less bulk and weight. Soft, large holed, micro-fiber fabric enables excellent circulation, cooling and breathability throughout the vest; and with patent pending Max O2 Sternum™ system is super easy to get in and out of, with or without gloves. It’s the only system out there that allows for full movement through the chest cavity and unrestricted deep breathing without any loss of stability. Special edition from Japan with a limited time offer. Available at Escapade Sport (Causeway Bay Shop) at HK$1,390.

UltrAspire Kenichi (special edition from Japan)

WOMEN’S HEATZONE 1000 TURBODOWN HOODED JACKET

Part of the Columbia Titanium line, the Heatzone 1000 gets its insane warmth from 900-fill, water-resistant goose down, 100g’s of Omni-Heat insulation, a thermal reflective lining, and finally Columbia’s revolutionary wave baffle construction that eliminates the cold spots found in traditional down jackets. The Heatzone 1000 also features a helmet-compatible hood, a ski pass pocket and the ability to keep you warm, even when wet. Available at HK$4999 at Columbia e-shop (www.columbiasportswear.hk) and Columbia Causeway Bay Shop.

BROOKS GLYCERIN 14 REECHO TRAIL 18L

The multi-functional Trail 18L Pack provides fully space for your hiking gear, like trekking pole gripper and hydration compartment. With the slim and smart outdoor style, it is perfect for lightweight day hiking. Available at Reecho shop at HK$499.

Reecho Trail 18L

Glycerin 14 neutral running shoe is the ultimate in super-soft cushioning, and comes equipped with everything you could ever want to glide through your run in supreme comfort. Super DNA midsole provides 20% more adaptable cushioning than normal. Available at Escapade Sport (Causeway Bay Shop) at HK$1,180.

Brooks Glycerin 14

Visitors to Peru are often focused on trekking to, or visiting Machu Picchu, yet Peru has plenty of variety to offer away from the high Andes mountains. In the tropical lowlands near its border with Brazil, the Amazon forest ignores country borders and spills into Peru. The confluence of the Rio Madre De Dios (which flows into the Rio Madeira and joins the Rio Amazonas at Manus in Brazil) and the Tambopata River meets at the city of Puerto Maldonado, the gateway into the squawking, screeching, chattering Tambopata National Reserve, and a trip up the Tambopata River takes visitors to the few wilderness lodges deeper in the jungle.

AMAZONIAN ADVENTURE

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Linda Cash

TAMBOPATA NATIONAL RESERVE

Tambopata National Reserve protects just over a million hectares of some of the wildest, least impacted habitats in the world, spread across dense rainforests, bird-filled marshes and tropical savannahs that have existed anywhere from 30 to 50 million years. In terms of wildlife, at least 670 bird species have been identified here, including exotic species like tinamous, macaws, and hoatzins. The mammal inhabitants include jaguars, giant anteaters and the Amazonian tapir, in addition to over 100 species of reptiles and amphibians. Lake Sandoval On a day trip from Puerto Maldonado you can visit Lake Sandoval, a pristine oxbow lake only 30 minutes by speedboat away. On arrival, the access track to the lake follows an easy 3km trail where you may encounter primates like squirrel monkeys, red howler monkeys, brown capuchins, and saddle-backed tamarins. Following the 3km hike, you can board a canoe (provided free for visitors), and paddle yourself around the lake on the lookout for giant otters, caiman, proboscis long-nosed bats, freshwater turtles and a plethora of amazing birdlife.

Tambopata River A must-do is to stay at one of the wilderness lodges along the Tambopata River. As you board the riverboat for the approximate 4-hour journey up the Tambopata River into the primary rainforest of the Tambopata Reserve Zone, one of the first animals you will see along the river banks will be small family groups of capybara, the largest member of the rodent family – they look like huge, overweight guinea pigs. Their young are a favourite meal of the local jaguar population, which are somewhat reclusive, but are still seen by some lucky visitors. Vultures wheel overhead, but they are too far away for a good photo. The guides give plenty of sage advice about sunscreen, insect repellent, and hydration, along with, “Don’t worry about the piranha, they stay in the still backwaters; it’s the electric eels and stingrays you’ve got to watch out for”. Travelling up the river, you will encounter the small caiman which are prolific and easily seen basking along the shoreline or in the shallows. The smaller spectacled caiman and the much larger black caiman are the most commonly seen, but the rarer and much sought after anaconda are much more of a challenge to spot.

At the El Chuncho Macaw Clay Lick, approximately 1 hour further up river from most lodges, is an area where the river bank is rich in mineral clay very much prized by the macaws and other parrots. At dawn, the birds descend on the clay bank, known as a “clay lick”, to eat the clay. Over a period of a couple of hours, thousands of parrots of all different kinds gather in the trees near the clay lick, waiting to be sure they’re safe from predators, before swooping in and landing on the cliff to eat their fill. It’s an early start, but well worth the extra trip up river. Jungle Walks Accommodation options in the Tambopata National Reserve are basic jungle lodges, with many providing walking tracks into the jungle, allowing you to explore on your own or take a guided walk. The guides know where to look and what to look for, so it’s a good idea to take a guided option to start with before you explore by yourself.

Red howler monkeys are heard long before you see them, if you see them at all. Their jet-engine-like howl is very distinctive, and will lead you to them. If you are lucky, you may find yourself between the alpha male and the rest of the band, who will have little fear of running and climbing right past you to reunite with the alpha male. After dark, the forest comes alive with creatures of the night, including huge tarantula spiders. Clinging to tree trunks near the bark under which they hide during the day, these amazing spiders are as big as a man’s hand, but quite shy and not in the least bit aggressive. Also be on the lookout for the large, bright green tree frogs (some of them poisonous) and the many large insects that inhabit this forest. Best Viewing Time Dawn and dusk are the great times of change in the forest, when day and night creatures change shift, when a great deal of feeding goes on, and when some of the more reclusive animals such as the sloth can be spotted moving about. This time of day is also ideal for spotting the many varieties of butterfly that inhabit the jungle, which often flutter about in large groups near the ground, sampling the mineral clays; or capturing the owls as they begin their hunting.

Peru

Bird life dominates the sky and trees, with flocks of mealy parrots taking over trees; pairs of scarlet macaw and blue-andyellow Macaw flashing colours in the sky; and toucans completing the exotic bird collection.

GETTING THERE

Tourism in the protected area is concentrated around the Tambopata River and the lower Madre de Dios. The capital of the Madre de Dios region is Puerto Maldonado – a short flight from the main tourist hub of Cuzco – which is the best access point to Tambopata National Reserve. Tambopata National Reserve is hot, humid rainforest, and sudden downpours are not uncommon. The best period of the year to visit it is between June and October, when the weather is drier.

SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL

Hokkaido is often considered one of the best world-class ski destinations. With its soft powder snow and challenging ski slopes, Hokkaido attracts thousands and thousands of ski-lovers every year to ski in this slice of snow paradise. To complement its popularity as a ski destination, Hokkaido is also home to some of the best resorts located in various mountain areas, offering a combination of skiing and leisure activities for both skiers and nonskiers alike.

A HOKKAIDO SOJOURN KIRORO RESORT

Kiroro Resort is one of the most convenient ski resorts with fullyequipped ski facilities including a ha 1,156,400 ski trail area and the best backcountry access, an express Gondola, 5 covered express lifts, and 3 chair lifts. With an average of 20m of snow fall in the area and located at the altitude of 570m stretching all the way to the Asari peak at 1,180m, the resort is mere 30 minute drive from Otaru and one hour drive from Sapporo. The resort has two properties with skiin, ski-out access: Sheraton Hokkaido Kiroro Resort and The Kiroro, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, which opened in December 2015 as an exclusive hotel operated by Marriott International.

THE SHERATON HOKKAIDO KIRORO RESORT

The majestic panorama of Hokkaido unfolds around the hotel, with its natural landscape framed each guestrooms’ window like a painting. Artwork evocative of Hokkaido’s nature is

displayed on the walls of each room as well as in the hotel lobby and corridors. Inspired by an alpine resort, the hotel lobby forms part of a relaxing open space that combines the entranceway, lounge, a restaurant and a bar – a welcome sight to many travellers. With all the facilities one needs to fully enjoy Hokkaido, one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, together with the hospitality and service that an international hotel brand like Sheraton can offer, The Sheraton Hokkaido Kiroro Resort sets the stage for an unforgettable getaway. Designed on the concept of an alpine resort and brimming with light, each guest room offers fabulous vistas of Hokkaido’s majestic nature. Apart from Japanese-style rooms, all guest rooms are furnished with a Sheraton original “Sheraton Suite Sleeper Bed”, which promises a pleasant night’s sleep.

PHOTOS BY Kiroro Resort

“All Hokkaido” forms the concept behind the cuisine. Fresh local produce from nearby Akaigawa village adorns the table, along with delicious Hokkaido milk and dairy produce, seafood landed at Yoichi harbour and many other delights from the vast land and sea around Hokkaido. Wherever possible, the restaurant insists on using locally-sourced ingredients including delicious bread baked with Hokkaido wheat, so that guests can enjoy the full palate of Hokkaido flavours.

THE KIRORO, A TRIBUTE PORTFOLIO HOTEL The Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel Hokkaido reopens on December 1st, featuring all 282 refurbished guest rooms

and suites, atrium lobby, hot spring, restaurants and new additional stone sauna. With a minimum floor space of 30m2, each the 282 guest rooms provides spacious refinement. The 6 stylish restaurants serve top-class cuisine with an “All Hokkaido” concept. With all the facilities of a resort hotel including geothermal spas and hot-water pools, combined with Marriott International’s quality service, The Kiroro is all about a comfortable and relaxing sojourn. As a ski resort blanketed in world-class powder snow in winter, and with a host of activities in summer including canyoning and trekking, The Kiroro is a gateway to discovering the wonders of Hokkaido.

WEDDING AND OTHER ACTIVITIES

Chapel Kiroro, situated within the grounds of Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel, provides the setting for an unforgettable ceremony, enveloped in the magnificent nature of Hokkaido. The snow season promises a white wedding in a fairy-tale winter wonderland, while the summer months offer a fresh and energising setting in the middle of verdant nature. In addition to skiing, the resorts offer other exciting outdoor activities to individuals and families, including Winter

GEOTHERMAL SPA & STONE SAUNA

KIRORO ONSEN is a hot spring with both indoor and outdoor thermal baths. Experience outdoor bathing in a wonderful winter scene piled high with fresh snow. HOT STONE SAUNA- The stones deeply heat the body from within and the detoxification process is said to improve general bodily functions. It’s definitely a good place to unwind and heal your body.

Forest Walk Tours, Panorama Forest Tours, Snow Buggy, Snow Segway and more. For more information on Kiroro resort and special offers, please visit the following websites: Kiroro Resort: www.kiroro.co.jp Sheraton Hokkaido Kiroro Resort: www.sheratonhokkaidokiroro.co.jp/en Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel Hokkaido: www.kirorohokkaido.com/en

Japan

RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE

ZAMBIA RIVER SAFARIS IN LOWER ZAMBEZI

Arising from its headwaters in the highlands of Zambia, the Zambezi is Africa’s fourth largest river system, running through six countries on its long, meandering journey across Africa. Stretching for 2,700km, it hosts some of the richest and most diverse wildlife in the world, with crocs, hippos, fish and all manner of land animals being sustained by its vast waters. For an intimate, close up look of the mighty Zambezi River – either from a boat or small canoe – one should consider the Lower Zambezi National Park. The Lower Zambezi actually flows within a massive rift in the earth’s crust. And over the years, lush vegetation has been nurtured by the deposits of mineral-rich volcanic soil carried by the waters, with tall Leadwoods, ebonies, acacias, fig trees and lush grassland combining to create a truly spectacular landscape that plays host to an abundance of wildlife.

Often overlooked in the wake of better known neighbours like South Africa or Kenya, relatively unknown Zambia represents an unspoiled, more authentic corner of the continent. It is one of the least visited countries in Africa and relatively new to tourism, with its game parks only having been set up in the late 80s and early 90s. Add to that an extraordinarily low population for its massive size and Zambia conjures an image of the Africa of old; undiscovered, mysterious and remote. WALKING SAFARIS IN SOUTH LUANGWA

One of the best ways to experience animal life in the African bush, walking safaris offer an unforgettable and unique experience, with one of the best places to go being South Luangwa National Park. Located in the heart of the pristine Luangwa Valley, the park is sometimes referred to as Africa’s last great wilderness. It is bordered by the Luangwa River and is well known for its predators, which include lion, leopard, hyena and the endangered African wild dog. The park is nicknamed ‘The Valley of the Leopard’ as it is one of the best parks in Africa in which to see them. Elephants, giraffes and large hippos are also equally plentiful within the park and even visit the camps from time to time; it’s not uncommon for campers to wake in

Buffalo and elephant are common here, as they regularly move between Zambia and Zimbabwe, and are often seen grazing on

the many small islands in the middle of the river. Along the river’s shores impala, kudu, eland, zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck and bushbuck are all in abundance, although giraffe, cheetah and black rhino (unfortunately because of poaching) are not seen here. In the water, it’s easy to spot crocs basking onshore along with omnipresent hippos. Meanwhile lion, leopard and hyena make up the main predators of the area. As well as boat rides and game drives, the Lower Zambezi Park also offers an incredible experience with their canoebased safaris. These make an ideal way to explore the river’s backwaters with a high chance to spot game, while meandering slowly down the river and drifting between remote islands. The best way to get to the park is to fly in and land on one of the valley’s small airstrips. Once there you’ll be met by a guide and driven via 4WD to your camp. Flights can be organised from Lusaka, Livingstone or South Luangwa’s Mfuwe Airport.

TEXT BY Jethro Wegener

SAFARI IN ZAMBIA & MALAWI

the morning to elephant ambling past their window as they graze nearby. Offering an amazing way to experience the bush and wildlife, it’s reasonably certain visitors will see these magnificent creatures up close as South Luangwa is famous as a pioneer in walking safari; the activity originated here in the 1960s. Lasting about 3 hours, walking groups set out from camp either in the early morning or mid-afternoon with an armed scout and a guide; common sightings include elephants, tracking a lion as it stalks its prey, or leopards lazing in trees. More than just the animals, guides also teach visitors about the various plants, point out different insects and even teach the basics about tracking animals.

GETTING THERE

International visitors generally fly in via Mfuwe Airport, and are driven into their lodge, while it’s also possible to self-drive into the park by 4WD from Chipata in Eastern Zambia.

After the excitement of walking safaris in Zambia, the broad, calm waters of Lake Malawi gives travellers an entirely different side of the African bush. Spanning the borders of Malawi, Mozambique and Tanzania, Lake Malawi is one of Africa’s Great Lakes. Not only is it Africa’s third largest and second deepest, it’s also the ninth biggest lake in the world, with over a thousand species of fish living beneath its waters – more than any other lake on earth. It is also known as the ‘Lake of Stars’ because of how the water shimmers when the sun reflects off of it. The lake covers a third of Malawi and is considered the country’s backbone, providing many of the locals with both food and a livelihood. While Malawi itself is a small country on the southern end of the Great Rift Valley, it is also one of the most densely populated countries on the continent. Famous, too for its incredibly friendly people, it’s not unheard of for visitors to be invited into local homes for a meal.

Not surprisingly, Lake Malawi is probably the country’s biggest drawcard for visitors. And within it, the little island of Likoma is one of the most unique destinations in Malawi. Lying off the eastern shore, it’s actually within Mozambique’s territorial waters, but belongs to Malawi. At only 17 sq. km., it is a tiny island with one road where the locals survive by fishing and rice farming. Its natural attractions include hundreds of huge baobab trees, idyllic sandy beaches and rocky coves. The most famous manmade attraction on the island is St Peter’s Cathedral, a massive structure that has been there since 1903 and is roughly the same size as Winchester Cathedral in England. The best place to stay on the island is Kaya Mawa, a lodge set on a rocky outcrop on Likoma’s southern tip. With a name meaning ‘maybe tomorrow’, it is surrounded by year-round clear waters and, with water activities like wakeboarding on offer, it is a good spot to relax. The

massive variety of fish also mean that the lake has some of the best freshwater diving and snorkelling in the world. Divers will be treated to the sight of hundreds of brightly coloured, beautiful fish including species like Mbenji, Lwanda Black and Red Fin.

Zambia/Malawi

MALAWI

Another great place to go on Lake Malawi is Mumbo Island, off the Maclear Peninsula. At a mere 1km in diametre and with accommodation for a maximum of only 14 guests at a time, the island is ideal for people who want to experience what a deserted island feels like. The island’s camp is eco friendly, made out of timber, thatch and canvas, with power supplied by solar panels. It is perched on high rocks among the foliage, giving guests a beautiful view of Lake Malawi from their decks. The diving around the island is excellent as well, with the area being proclaimed the world’s first freshwater national park.

Wilderness Safaris specializes in tailor made African safaris in remote destinations across the continent, such as Zambia and Malawi. Check www.wilderness-safaris.com.

GETTING THERE

Travellers going to Lake Malawi can either fly in directly to Lilongwe, Malawi from other regional destinations including Johannesburg or Mfuwe Airport, or arrange for an overland drive in from Zambia via a local operator. For travellers going on to Likoma, you’ll then board a light aircraft that will take you straight to the island.

GEAR GUY: Ken Berg

WATCHING GEAR BINOCULARS

When looking at binoculars the first thing to know is what all of those numbers associated with them mean. If it’s 8 x 25, the first number (8 in this case) is the magnification. For wildlife viewing, an 8 or 9 magnification is fine; anything beyond becomes difficult to keep the image steady without a tripod. The second number (25 in the example) is the size of the objective lens. The larger the number, the brighter, sharper and easier it is to look

A highlight of many a trip can be an encounter with wildlife, but they can be tricky to spot, so here are some tips to make spotting animals a little bit easier and make the most of the moments that you may have.

situations (or if you need light binoculars), exit pupil 2-3 mm is fine. For slightly darker settings or a more comfortable viewing, 4-5mm is great. Most binoculars over 6mm provide a great image but may be bulky. For a very basic pair that is lightweight and inexpensive, Bushnell Powerview 8 x 21 are a great option. For a high quality image in a small design, the Pentax UP 8x25 WP provides sharp images even in the edges, and is waterproof. The Nikon Action EX 8X40 is a great larger binoculars (855g); it’s waterproof, with a rubber housing shock absorber.

SUNGLASSES

Choosing the right sunglasses will depend on the conditions you’ll be in and your activities. If you’re in bright conditions, polarized sunglasses cut down the glare, so they’re useful in snow and water settings. In cloudy or shady conditions, something with

through them (less eye fatigue). The downside to a large objective lens is that it gets heavier and bulkier. For smaller binoculars, an objective lens of around 21-25 should suffice, or ideally around the 40-42 range. The last number is the exit pupil – basically the size of the image. You want this to be comparable to the size of your pupil. In bright

Ken grew up on the doorstep of the Canadian wilderness, backpacking, paddling and rock climbing in this rugged land. Armed with a degree in recreational studies, he has been working at Canada’s premier outdoor retailer for over 10 years, putting gear to the test whether it’s cycling in -35ºC winters, running marathons or travelling to the far reaches of the planet.

pink or orange lenses will help you see contrasts but will distort the true colour of things quite dramatically. The Suncloud Pursuit Polarized Sunglasses work for athletic pursuits as well as less sport-specific activities.

PHOTOS

Getting a photo of your wildlife encounter can be quite a souvenir, so the first thing is to be ready. Many times when you see animals, you only have a few moments to get a shot before they scurry off. If using a DSLR, have your telephoto lens on and your camera set up for an action shot (either pick an appropriate shutter speed or have as low a number in aperture priority mode, set ISO for the lighting around 800). Few people can afford or want to lug around lenses beyond a focal length of 200mm. A solution is to get a lens extender. you’ll likely lose some sharpness but they will double your focal length at a fraction of the cost. All lens manufacturers offer some telephoto lenses that will work, including Canon’s 70-200 L series F4 lens.

SPOTTING WILDLIFE If you are looking to learn how to spot great wildlife, here are some basic tips.

Seeing the tides: Tides make a difference.

To see shorebirds, look out for high tides as the water forces them to rest on marshes. For tidepool creatures such as sea urchins and starfish, low tides are the best as they draw them into the intertidal zone.

Seeing the transition areas: Transition areas

like estuaries, river banks and shorelines are great spots for diverse wildlife viewing, as they allow access to food, water and protection from predators. For example, deer and zebras can be spotted at estuaries or river banks; follow animal tracks on wet ground.

Watch out for animal tracks: Land animal

tracks that are easily identifiable include deer, kudo and elephants, as they create runways through the brush. Feral hogs create trails through thick underbrush, while raccoons walk across fallen logs.

Right season, right time: Dry season is the best

period to see wildlife, as the water holes attract a wide variety of animals. Dawn and dusk, when it’s not too hot, is the most ideal time to spot game.

Staying downwind: Once you’ve spotted

wildlife, it’s important to stay downwind so that

they cannot detect your scent and won’t be startled by your presence or suddenly attack.

Follow the Rivers: You’re likely to come across

a range of animals if you follow a river, including crocodiles, hippos and water monitors there; birds such as herons and kingfishers can also be spotted.

Edition 06

Off-roading

Adventure Sports Supplement

Issue 05: Off-roading

OTHER OFF-ROAD ACTIVITIES

Another advantage of 4WD is getting access to campsites deep in the forests of national parks for a spot of wildlife watching or even an adventure challenge. 4WD Adventures in Johor Since there are no places left in Singapore to do vehicle camping, 4WD enthusiasts can travel to Malaysia – with the nearest campsites being only a short drive across the Second Link in Johor at Endau Rompin Selai National Park. Crossing into Malaysia via Tuas, the town of Yong Peng (150km, 1.5 hours drive) is the gateway to Endau Rompin Selai National Park’s Lubuk Merekek campsite; camping at the National Park requires registration for a permit at the park site office at the Bekok entrance – with all vehicles and passengers entering the park being registered for safety reasons. Insurance is a compulsory purchase at the ranger office when buying the entrance permit.

After the registration is complete, it takes about an hour to drive through primary rainforest tracks to reach the site. Among the numerous camps in the park, Lubuk Merekek is considered a relatively comfortable one with basic amenities such as male and female toilets with shower facilities. It is large enough to hold over 30 campers. Native wildlife in the area include tapirs, deer and wild boars, with locals claiming to regularly spot elephants in the park. Endau Rompin is also home to at least six species of primates with the most commonly seen being the white-handed gibbon and banded leaf monkey. In addition, at least seven species of hornbills reside in the park, with the rhinoceros hornbill (the second-largest of all hornbill species) more often heard than seen, due to its distinctive call which can be heard over an extremely long distance. Some off-road or 4WD interest groups organise regular trips into the jungles of Malaysia

Waterfalls

Rhinoceros Hornbill

Orang Asli

White-handed Gibbon

ADVENTURE CHALLENGES

TNP SUVival Challenge The New Paper SUVival Challenge is open to all SUV owners, and is a 2D1N weekend getaway to Malaysia. Participants can drive through a variety of terrain from country road to rugged trails, with prizes awarded for winners of various challenges. It is held annually in April.

Terrainware specialises in a range of products, including Lynxhooks, Power Pot and Poler Camping Stuffs, which are ideal for vehicle camping as well as outdoor activities like hiking, climbing and trail running. Their full range of products is available online at www.terrainware.com.

PENGUINS When people think of South Africa, usually their first thoughts are of game drives and the ‘Big Five’, but the country also provides visitors with the opportunity to experience some of the most amazing aquatic wildlife displays in the world, allowing them to go on their own ‘marine safari’. © Wilderness Safaris

Located about 115km southeast of Cape Town, Hermanus is a good place to start, beginning with Betty’s Bay to see the Stoney Point Penguin Colony. It began in 1982 when a pair of penguins arrived in the bay and made it their home. The colony has since grown to include over 150 nests, with hundreds of the birds living in the abandoned Betty’s Bay Whaling Station. The African Penguin, also called the ‘Jackass’ Penguin because of their donkey-like bray, is an endangered species and Stoney Point is one of only three landbased penguin colonies in the whole of Africa. It is not as popular a destination as South Africa’s other land-based colony at Boulders Bay - making it likely that there will be less people there, so you can enjoy watching the birds with fewer interruptions. A wooden boardwalk allows visitors to get close to the nests without disturbing the habitat, meaning you can have some excellent, up-close encounters (and pictures) of these unique birds. African Penguins return to the same nesting sites for the entire 15 years of their breeding life. The female lays two eggs and the monogamous penguin partners take turns incubating them for up to 42 days; the birds breed throughout the year with the main breeding season being in February.

TEXT BY Jethro Wegener

WHALE WATCHING

The best times to see the penguins would be either in the early morning or late afternoon, when they return from their 20km fishing expeditions.

WILDLIFE CRUISES SOUTH AFRICA

Few things can compare to the awesome sight of a pod of whales frolicking in the water right in front of you, and Hermanus is considered South Africa’s premiere whale watching destination – it’s also one of the best places in the world to see these gentle giants up close. Each year, the whales make their way from the Antarctic to the relatively warmer waters of the south Atlantic to breed and calve. During this time, hundreds of Southern Right whales find their way to Walker’s Bay in Hermanus from June to December. Southern Rights got their name from whalers because they were considered the ‘right’ whales to pursue due to their slow swimming speed. Hunted almost to extinction, they are now a protected species and their numbers are steadily increasing, with a population growth rate of 7%-10% per year. Visitors to Hermanus during the season are in for a treat because that is when the whales are most active. It is common to see whales ‘breaching’ (jumping) clear out of the water to land with a terrific splash

– scientists are still unsure of the reasons behind this behavior. They’re also known to ‘sail’ by sticking their tails up out of the water and raising their massive heads, allowing onlookers to get a good look at these magnificent creatures. Due to the whales’ extremely close proximity to shore, you can watch them from either the beach or from one of the many seaside bars or restaurants – making Hermanus one of the best places in the world for land-based whale watching. There’s even a clifftop walk along the coast that will allow you to get a bird’s eye view of them, as they generally stay close to the shore. For those who want to get closer still, a number of local operators offer boat tours with specialist guides on board. Rides typically run from 1.5 to 3 hours (costing from HK$450-550), and have the advantage over shore-based watching by letting visitors get mere metres away from the gentle giants, which of course inevitably leads to the occasional soaking from a whale tail or nearby breaching.

SHARK DIVING

Attracted by the large number of Cape Fur Seals that live on the islands off the coast, hundreds of sharks call these waters their home. This results in the largest known concentration of Great Whites in the world, making it incredibly easy for visitors to get to see them with just a mere 20-minute boat trip from shore. Various companies, such as Apex Shark Expeditions and White Shark Diving Company, provide visitors with the opportunity to not only see these creatures from a boat, but also to actually get in the water with them. Divers are lowered in an impenetrable floating cage, from where they get a (barred) window seat, watching as the sharks swim nearby, opening their mouths wide, exposing rows of razor sharp teeth. Even for non-divers, simply being on the boat also provides a fantastic experience. Great Whites are surface feeders and tour operators will use bait to lure the sharks right up to the boat, allowing for an incredible view of the animals as they glide past. Trips typically last from 3-5 hours with boats departing the harbour 7 days a week. The best time to go is during peak season, which lasts from April to

South Africa

While not for everyone, for those seeking an adrenaline rush, there is the opportunity to see the fearsome Great White shark up close in Gansbaai. Located 160km southeast of Cape Town, it’s known as ‘the great white capital of the world’, and for good reason.

27 September, and gives you the best chance to see the sharks. Besides affording visitors a once-in-alifetime opportunity, shark tours such as these are critical to the general public’s broader understanding of what’s ultimately one of the most misunderstood animals on the planet. Typically feared and reviled, they have a reputation for being mindless killing machines - something based far more on fiction than fact. Most sharks only attack humans by accident, mistaking them for a seal, their favourite food; in fact, more people are killed by chairs or electric toasters each year than sharks.

SARDINE RUN Each year, between the months of June and July, South Africa’s Kwazulu-Natal coastline plays host to one of the most amazing sights in the world: the Sardine Run. Over 700 million sardines make the journey from the colder waters of their spawning grounds in the Cape to the warmer tides up the coast. Travelling en masse, there are so many fish that the water is actually coloured silver as they swim through. It is considered a seasonal peculiarity as no one knows exactly why the sardines do this. It happens every year and, following in the wake of all the fish, are all the predators that gather to gorge themselves on the abundant supply of food. Schools of sharks, seals, whales, as well as hundreds of dolphins and birds can all be found hot on the heels of the kilometres-long shoal of baitfish. Birds plummet out of the sky to pick off the fish that are close to the surface, whales breach with fish in their mouths amid giant sprays of water, and sharks glide through

the shoals picking their fill. Of particular note are the dolphins that ‘herd’ sections of the shoal into densely packed groups called ‘bait balls’ by working together, whirling and twisting around the sardines to get them to into clusters, which are then easily fed upon. Various companies offer both boat-based sardine safaris and dive trips out on the shoals, including Ocean Africa, Apex Shark Expeditions and Dive Discovery South Africa.

Although the peak seasons for penguins, whales, sharks and sardines don’t precisely coincide, they do overlap between June and July each year. With sufficient planning, visitors will be able to experience all four activities within a week, with the sardine run offering the chance to see a number of different animals at once. Ideally, visitors should base themselves out of somewhere like Hermanus, allowing them easy access to all the goings-on. Visit www.hermanus.co.za for more information.

Malaysia

GETTING THERE

From Hong Kong, Hong Kong Airlines offers direct flights to Kuching twice per week, with a flight time of about 3.5 hours. For more information on Sarawak, visit www.sarawaktourism.com.

THE THRIVING TUNDRA

PHOTOS BY Visit Svalbard

Located halfway between the North Pole and Norway, Svalbard (meaning ‘the cold rim’) consists of numerous islands – the largest of which is Spitzbergen – that was settled in the last 200 years when mining and whaling drew settlers to this remote part of the world. Today, the main town, Longyearbyen, is a great jumping-off point for those looking for an Arctic adventure like no other. Plus, this is probably the world’s northernmost place where you can get wifi connection.

SVALBARD Longyearbyen

This part of the Arctic is governed by the extremes – the Polar Night and the Midnight Sun which cloak the landscape in darkness and light 24 hours a day. While the Midnight Sun is the best time to go to spot wildlife, the Polar Night brings with it the spectacle of the Northern Lights. As desolate as it seems, the amount of wildlife that thrives here makes it worth the extra mile.

RINGED SEAL

Characterised by circular markings on its body, the Ringed Seal is relatively small compared to the Bearded Seal, and occurs almost everywhere in the Arctic, and can be spotted near drift ice or fjord ice, where they can stay in quite large numbers. They moult in June and July, and retreat to open waters near the ice edge. Ringed seals often end up as meals for polar bears, and occasionally walruses and Greenland sharks. They’re also sometimes hunted by humans, although the meat is usually fed to sled dogs.

WALRUSES

An unexpected surprise for most visitors is the sighting of walruses, which inhabit shallow coastal waters. Growing between 3-4m in length and weighing in at 1,500kg, these mollusc eaters can be spotted hauling themselves up onto shores or ice using their large canine teeth. Walrus numbers are on an increase – now estimated to be around 2,000 individuals – thanks to conservation efforts. One of the most known colonies close to Longyearbyen is on “Prince Karl’s Forland”.

POLAR BEARS

The highlight of any Svalbard trip is the sighting of a polar bear. These Kings of the Arctic scour the icy tundra looking for their favourite food source of bearded seals. About 3,000 of these bears are estimated to inhabit the Svalbard area (with numbers steadily increasing over the past few decades), meaning chances of an encounter with one can be high since it is relatively fearless of humans. The polar bear spotting season is between July and August when the waters are navigable by boat and you may see the bears hunting on the pack ice.

WILDLIFE SPOTTING OPTIONS

There are a number of options available for exploring wildlife in the area around Svalbard. Trips depart from Longyearbyen, with most land-based trips accompanied by guides armed with rifles (for polar bear protection). Boat expeditions The best way to spot most of the wildlife Svalbard has to offer is on wildlife cruises – possible only during summer when the pack ice breaks up. A number of

Dog sledging (sledding) Dog sledging is normally done during winter/spring (Nov-May) when there is snow cover. This is a good time to encounter the Northern Lights and a crystalclear sky full of stars, in addition to some wildlife like foxes and reindeer. Visitors are expected to drive their own sleds, and will be instructed on how to handle one (tethered to up to a dozen dogs), with two people per sled. It’s also possible to sled outside the winter season, although the sleds will be equipped with wheels. options are available, ranging from day trips to multi-day expeditions, offering opportunities to catch polar bears, walruses or seals perched on ice floes. You may also catch a blue whale or a humpback whale as they play around the boats. Some of these cruises also include time spent on the ground to be closer to wildlife like walruses, while others have inflatable Zodiac boats that cruise along towering sea cliffs, home to tens of thousands of raucous seabirds.

Norway

NORWAY’S SVALBARD ARCHIPELAGO

Kayaking & Hiking During summer, you can also go kayaking and/or hiking. A hiking trip to Fuglefjella takes you to cliffsides that are home to nesting seabirds including the little auk, guillemots, fulmars and maybe even the Svalbard Ptarmigan. Kayaking trips can bring you close to nesting bird colonies, and you may share a beach with walruses, arctic foxes, and reindeer or even catch whales (like mink or beluga) while in the water.

REINDEER

ARCTIC FOXES

With their short snout, short ears and body size close to the red fox, the Arctic fox has a winter coat (white) and a thinner summer one (brown/ grey with hints of white). Arctic foxes have 2 distinct colour morphs – white and blue, with most in Svalbard possessing the white coat. They can be spotted almost anywhere in Svalbard, and can be seen stalking smaller rodents on inland areas, or even feasting on marine creatures at sea.

A relatively easy creature to spot is the endemic Svalbard reindeer, which can be even be seen in downtown Longyearbyen in small herds of 3 to 5 individuals (and they’re relatively fearless of humans) during summer when they feed on the lowland plateaus. Smaller than other reindeer species, the males grow their fuzzy antlers between April and July before shedding their velvet in August, whilst the females’ antlers grow in June and maintain throughout the year.

BIRDLIFE

One of the most colourful birds in Svalbard is the puffin – they are instantly recognisable and are unique in a way that they have huge, colourful bills and a peculiar walk. There are an estimated 10,000 nesting pairs in accessible spots along the cliffs and they can often be spotted if you’re sailing in the area near Spitzbergen. Puffins return early to their breeding sites in early or mid May and stay well into August.

GETTING THERE

The fastest way to Svalbard is by plane, with scheduled daily flights most of the year from Oslo (flight time of 3 hours) and Tromsø (flight time of 1 hr 50 mins) to Longyearbyen. Getting around the small town of Longyearbyen is easy, as there are few roads. Beyond that, transport is by snowmobile (winter) or boat (summer). There are about 17 lodges on Svalbard, ranging from hostels to 5-star hotels. For more, visit visitsvalbard.com.

is available at the following locations in Hong Kong ABERDEEN The Aberdeen Marina Club AP LEI CHAU Starbuck Coffee - South Horizon (Reading Copy) South Horizon Residents Club (Reading copy) CAUSEWAY BAY Action X Store Big Pack Diving Adventure Limited Escapade Sports Excelsior Fitness Centre Fitness First Hong Kong Mountaineering Union Association Hong Kong Rugby Union Hong Kong Triathlon Association Island Wake Le Creperie Hong Kong Patagonia Hong Kong Protrek RC Outfitter Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club X Game CENTRAL Bull Bike Colour Six Laboratories Country Holidays Ltd (Reading Copy) Culture Club Discovery Forest Epicmma Club Escapade Sports - Central Figure Fitness Fitness First - Platinum Exchange Square Foreign Correspondent’s Club Fresh Bar & Cafe Frey & Ford Hertz Rent A Car (Reading Copy) Hip Holiday Ltd Holly Brown Coffee Hong Kong Book Centre Co. Ltd HSBC Premier Centres Le Velo - The Baker Mammut Central Shop Nature’s Village - Central Optimum Performance Studio Patagonia Hong Kong Sports Performance Physiotherapy Starbuck Coffee - Century Square (Reading Copy) Taco Loco The Flying Pan Uncle Russ Coffee - Pier 6 CHEK LAP KOK INCLUDING AIRPORT LOUNGES Air Asia Check in counter Emirates Hong Kong Airlines VIP Lounge Korean Air Lufthansa Qantas Plaza Premium Lounge Singapore Airlines Thai Airways The Hong Kong Lounge (Qantas and British Airways) The Traveler’s Lounge CHEUNG SHA WAN Flying Ball Bicycle Co DEEP WATER BAY Hong Kong Country Club

DISCOVERY BAY Action X Store Discovery Bay Residents Club Ebeneezer’s Discovery Bay Uncle Russ Coffee - Discovery Bay Plaza Uncle Russ Coffee - North Plaza HAPPY VALLEY Craigengower Cricket Club (Reading Copy) Hong Kong Cricket Club (Reading Copy) Hong Kong Football Club (Reading Copy) Jaspas - Happy Valley Starbuck Coffee - Happy Valley (Reading Copy) HUNG HOM Hong Kong Polytechnic University Student Union INFLIGHT Sri Lankan Airlines Swiss International Airlines JORDAN Big Pack Hertz Rent A Car (Reading Copy) Main Street Café The Kowloon Cricket Club (Reading Copy) KENNEDY TOWN Blue Place Fish & Chick Jasper KOWLOON BAY Protrek Shop RC Outfitters KOWLOON TONG City University Astronomy Society Hong Kong Baptist University Library Hong Kong Baptist University Student Union Kowloon Tong Club (Reading Copy) KWUN TONG Fitness First - Kwun Tong (Reading copies) TLX Travel Hong Kong Wincastle Travel (HK) Ltd LAMMA Bebe V Bookworm Cafe MID-LEVELS Island School Ladies Recreation Club Queens Garden The Helena May (Reading Copy) YWCA - English Speaking Department MONGKOK Big Pack Blue Place Chamonix Alpine Equipment International Elite Dive Centre (Reading Copy) Overlander RC Outfitters Sun N Sea Holidays (Reading Copy) The Big Packer X Game MUI WO China Bear Home Solutions

NORTH POINT Fitness First – Kiu Fai Mansion Fitness First - Olympia Plaza Mountain Services Int’l POKFULAM INCLUDING CYBERPORT Flora Ho Sports Centre (Lindsay Ride Sports Centre) Hong Kong University Senior Common Room Jasper (High Street) Le Meridian Go Gym Starbuck Coffee University of Hong Kong (Reading copy) YHA Hong Kong Youth Hostel PRINCE EDWARD Kadorrie Hill Residence QUARRY BAY Fitness First - PCCW Tower Grand Waterfall Mandarin Divers QUEENSWAY Island Shangri La Health Club JW Marriott Hong Kong Health Club Kelly & Walsh Thai Airways Ticketing Office REPULSE BAY Escapade Sports The Repulse Bay Club SAI KUNG INCLUDING CLEARWATER BAY Anthony’s Ranch Big Fish Seafood & Grill Escapade Sports Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Golf & Tennis Academy Island Wake Outward Bound SHA TIN Overlander SHAM SHUI PO Blue Place (2 outlets) SHEUNG WAN Action X Brista Jam Fitness First Le Creperie Hong Kong Monsieur Chatte France Protrek - Sheung Wan Racing the Planet Show Room Rise Plus Group (Reading Copy) Round The World Shop The Cupping Room The Dutch STANLEY A3 Int’L Island Wake TAI KOK TSUI Videotage Limited TAIKOO SHING Protrek Shop TAIPO Hong Lok Yuen Country Club (Reading Copy)

TAI TAM The American Club TSIM SHA TSUI August Moon Tour & Travel Co Ltd Ebeneezer’s Tsim Sha Tsui Fitness First - Harbour City (Reading copies) Fitness First - Plantium The Sheraton Froggy Diver Company Ltd (Reading Copy) JAL Satellite Travel Co., Ltd Ocean Sky Diving Co Ltd Optimum Performance Studio Pacific Club Phoenix Services Protrek Shop Rail Europe - Ticketing office Sports Performance Physiotherapy Sunrise Travel & Tours Swindon Book Co Wanderlust Vacations Company Ltd TSUEN WAN Blue Place (2 outlets) Reecho Protrek Shop TSUENG KWAN O Big Pack (2 outlets) TUEN MUN Gold Coast Yacht & Country Club Lingnan University (student Services Centre) Sports Performance Physiotherapy WAN CHAI Blue Place Booktique Bunn’s Divers Centre Caffe Kenon (Reading Copy) Cosmo Book Centre Ebeneezer’s Wanchai Fitness First - Hopewell Centre (Reading copies) Le Creperie Hong Kong Mammut Wanchai Shop Nature’s Village - Wanchai Oplus Hennessy Serviced Apartments Overlander Pro Dive USA Protrek Shop Wanchai Sri Lankan Airlines Ticketing Office The Bicycle World The Flying Pan - Wanchai Starbuck Coffee - Hopewell Centre (Reading Copy) WESTERN DISTRICT Cafe Opendoor Chi Residences Starbuck Coffee YAU MA TEI Bull Triathlon Shop Protrek Reecho OTHERS Hong Kong Hobie Club (Reading Copy) Royal Geographic Society Events The Hong Kong Bird Watching Society

Events Calendar

HONG KONG

If you have an event that you feel should be included on this page, please email us on events@sportsandtravel.com.hk

2 Dec

2016 - MSIG Lantau VK www.actionasiaevents.com

3-4 Dec PokĂŠmon Run 2016 HK

Trail Hike and Run 5km

www.doitnow.hk/pokemonrun2016hk

5km Run & Fun Run

4 Dec

SHKP Vertical Run for Charity (Race to HK ICC) www.shkpverticalrun.com/tc/home/

4 Dec

2016 Hong Kong Duathlon Championship www.triathlon.com.hk Duathlon

4 Dec

2016 - MSIG Lantau 50 www.actionasiaevents.com

8-11 Dec Hong Kong Open 2016 (Golf Tournament) 10 Dec

10-11 Dec The North Face 100

Trail Hike and Run 16/27/50km

www.ubshkopen.com

NWS Geo Hero Run www.geoherorun.runourcity.org www.northface100.com

Vertical Race

Golf Tournament

10km Run

50/100km Trail Run

11 Dec

Coca-Cola Running Fun 2016 www.ccrf.hk

11 Dec

Hong Kong International Races (Horseracing) www.entertainment.hkjc.com Horseracing

18 Dec

United Airlines GUAM Run (The 17th) www.ibansport.com

18 Dec

United Airlines Shek Kong 10K 2016 (The 17th) www.ibansport.com 10km Run

25 Dec

2016 Tolo Harbour 10K King of Fast Course www.hkrunners.com/node/6339 10km Run

25 Dec

2016 Tolo Harbour 4.2K Mini Marathon for Families www.hkrunners.com/node/6339

10km Run

30km Run

4.2km Run