India Special 2010

MICA (P) 220/02/2010

MAY/JUN 2010

India

EXTRA

Š Rajasthan Tourism

Rajasthan | Sundarbans | Sikkim | Natural Heritage

WELCOME TO When you think wilderness, wildlife and the pure power of nature, few places can compare to India. From the mighty Himalayas to the vast open desert plains of Rajasthan, India's a land that's defined by its amazing landscapes. The snowcapped peaks feed the mighty rivers, which in turn water the rich plains with their myriad species of wildlife and ancient cultural traditions.

Modern India comprises a diverse array of 28 states and 7 territories, spread over more than 3.2million sq.km. Home to everything from the world's highest peaks, to the wettest spot on the planet (in Kerala) and some of the hottest deserts, India's diverse environment and landscape also make it home to some of the world's rarest and most unique wildlife.

From the majestic Bengal Tiger to the Indian Elephant and Rhinoceros, India's a refuge to thousands of equally rare and special creatures, including one of the world's most endangered primates, the Golden Langur, or the majestic Nilgiri Tahr. They make up just some of the 90,000 species of animals that call India home.

experiences, including the Sundarbans (home to the world's largest population of tigers), Rajasthan's Thar desert (home to myriad tribes) and Sikkim, with its untouched remote valleys.

India has recently kicked off an all-new initiative to develop village-based tourism across the country. The aim of rural tourism is to give visitors a unique vignette into the lives and livelihoods of communities across 13 states, from Kerala and Tamil Nadu, to Himachal Pradesh and Sikkim. Generated through Village Level Councils (VLC), it gives local communities an active voice in regionally-oriented rural tourism initiatives, bringing them into the loop as ambassadors of India's unique culture. Rural tourism itineraries around the Northeast usually set out of Kolkata, and some southern itineraries begin in Chennai, while most itineraries through western and northern India depart from Delhi. For more information on participating communities and how to book a rural holiday in India, visit www.exploreruralindia.org.

Yours sincerely,

Then there’s India’s eclectic melange of ethnic groups – from industrious city dwellers to ancient tribes that time forgot – that provide for an exotic cultural experience. Add to that the rich heritage of its historical architecture of majestic havelis, intricate temples and Colonial forts that exist alongside some of India’s tech savvy urban hubs.

Srinagar

India's been firing imaginations and inspiring dreams with classic journeys since the earliest days of travel, from Marco Polo’s classic Silk Road to the rich forests that inspired Kipling's "The Jungle Book". In this issue, we hope to inspire travellers to lesser-known destinations that provide a wealth of eco-themed

DELHI Jaisalmer

Jaipur

Darjeeling

Udaipur

KOLKATA Bhubaneswar

MUMBAI Hyderabad Goa For further information on these any hundreds of other destinations in India, simply visit India Tourism #01-01 United House, 20 Kramat Lane, Singapore 228773 Tel: (65) 6235 3800 Fax: (65) 6235 8677

WWW.INCREDIBLEINDIA.ORG

CHENNAI

Kochi

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INDIA’S MAJOR CITIES India's urban landscape in metropolises like Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai are both fast-paced, yet traditional. They are places where having skyscrapers next to an ancient temple or historic palace wouldn't seem out of place. It is these cities that provide a gateway into India.

MUMBAI

KOLKATA

Location: The Arabian Sea coast of Maharashtra state, western India

Location: West Bengal state, eastern India

Main Sites: The city's colonial heritage and ancient history, including Victoria Terminus and the World Heritage Elephanta Caves

Main Sites: Excellently preserved colonial architecture around the Bagh

Gateway To: Central India, and the Western Coast from Goa to Kerala.

India's wealthiest and most cosmopolitan city, Mumbai's home to India's famous Bollywood film industry as well as colonial-era showpieces.

Within the vast city, some of Mumbai's best-loved sites include the Victoria Terminus railway station and the Gateway of India monument.

Just out of town, nearby attractions include the World Heritage Elephanta Caves. Mumbai's modern Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is India's second-busiest, with numerous domestic flights as well as daily flights from Singapore, giving access to virtually every corner of the country. Along with the city's excellent rail connections make it the natural gateway for popular destinations like Goa and Kerala.

Gateway To: India's northeastern "7 Sister" states (Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim and Tripura), the Eastern Himalayas including Darjeeling, and the Sundarbans.

Kolkata is the cultural capital of India's proud Bengali community, famous for its authors and poets, and its signature desert, Mishti Doi. Kolkata's the gateway to a vast and varied region, including India's remote and mysterious Northeast (known for the tribes of Nagaland), as well as the World Heritage Kaziranga National Park. It's also just a short journey to the Sundarbans, Darjeeling and Sikkim. The city is home to numerous historic colonial-era sites, as it was the country's capital under the British Raj. The best of these include St. Paul's Cathedral and Victoria Memorial, along with the city's quaint trams (the only trams in India). Kolkata is serviced by numerous daily flights from Singapore and other Southeast Asian hubs via Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport.

DELHI Location: The N.C.T. (National Capital Territory), in north-central India Main Sites: Old Delhi's historic Red Fort and Shajahanabad.

Gateway To: Rajasthan, the Taj Mahal, as well as Himalayan destinations (Jammu&Kashmir, Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh) India's bustling capital is home to over 12 million people, and is the heart of India's Moghul and colonial era history. Its location has long made it the historic gateway to the classic Golden Triangle, which includes some of India's best-known attractions like the Taj Mahal and Rajasthan. The city is home to its famous ancient quarter, "Old Delhi", the palace complex of Shahjahanabad and a catacomb of historic streets leading to the Red Fort and India's largest mosque, Jami Masjid. Delhi is India's largest and primary international gateway, with hundreds of daily flights coming into Indira Gandhi International Airport (including numerous carriers from Singapore). Delhi's also a main domestic gateway, with regular flights to almost every city in the country.

CHENNAI Location: Tamil Nadu state, on India's southeastern coast Main Sites: St. Thomas Basilica and St. Thomas Mount and colonialera Fort St. George Gateway To: South India, including the Tamil heartland, Pondicherry and Auroville.

The capital of Tamil Nadu, and the throbbing heart of India's bustling south, Chennai is one of the country's friendliest big cities. Home to the burgeoning Kollywood (Tamil-language) movie industry, Chennai's also a media and IT hub befitting its decidedly young vibe. And that's best exemplified by wandering among the throngs on Ranganathan Street while shopping for some of South India's finest jewellery and clothing or strolling around the urban oasis of Guindy National Park and the serene St. Thomas Mount, believed to be where the saint died. The city's well-linked to Southeast Asia via Chennai International Airport, with numerous onward air and rail connections throughout South India.

INDIAN WILDLIFE

From the Himalayas to the deserts of Rajasthan, the country is home to some of the world's most critically important, emblematic and unique species. Here are some of the best-known and often most endangered of them.

RED PANDA

Status: Vulnerable Habitat: East & West Himalayas above 1,500m

Easily recognisable for their endearing faces and pint-sized bodies, Red Pandas these days are largely limited to the steep, inhospitable slopes of the Himalayas due to human pressure and habitat loss.

Adult pandas measure 1m long, including their tail, and weigh between 5-6kg. They're strong climbers, living most of their life foraging in the safety of the trees away from predators like Snow Leopards. It has a diverse diet of bamboo, fruits, grass and roots as well as grubs and insects.

INDIAN RHINO

and Sumatran rhinos of South East Asia, which also formerly roamed the subcontinent until a century ago. Indian Rhinos stand The Indian Rhino has long been one of the about 1.5m at the shoulder and weigh around 1,800kg. Notably, they differ from their African country's most symbolic creatures from prehistoric times when it flourished across cousin by having only 1 horn, hence its Latin much of the country, right up to the British name Rhinoceros unicornis. The rhinos' gestation is slow, with pregnancy taking 16 Raj when trophy hunting brought it to the months to birth a single calf which the mother brink of extinction. Today, concerted conservation efforts like Project Rhino have stays with for 3-4 more years. seen its numbers slowly rebound.

Assam is the best place to spot rhinos.

Status: Vulnerable Habitat Range: Assam

The Indian Rhino is 1 of only 5 surviving ancient species of rhino worldwide alongside its cousins, the African Black- and White rhinos, as well as the much smaller Javan-

Declared a sanctuary in 1926, Kaziranga is the single biggest rhino habitat in the world, and home to 85% of India's rhinos with over 1,700 individuals, while the Pabitora Sanctuary is home to about 100 rhinos.

ASIATIC OR INDIAN LION

Status: Critically Endangered Habitat: Gir Forest, Gujarat (1,400sq.km.)

Pandas typically live to 10 years, with mothers raising 1 or 2 cubs a year. Most active at night, pandas are usually seen asleep in tree branches during the day, preferring to forage in the dark thanks to their acute sense of smell.

Living in isolated pockets above 1,500m across the Himalayas, there's an estimated 5,000-6,000 found in Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Sikkim and West Bengal. Living in high altitudes, the soles of their feet are covered in fur to protect against the cold.

Some of the best places to see Red Pandas in the wild include Khangchendzonga National Park (Sikkim), Namdapha National Park (Arunachal Pradesh) and Singalila National Park (West Bengal).

Numbering only 20 lions a century ago, the resident ruling family of Junagadh (now modern Gir) took over their protection.

Through strict hunting bans and enforcement, the species narrowly avoided extinction.

In ancient times, the Asiatic Lion's range stretched from Greece and Persia to India, but human conflicts, hunting and loss of The lions in Gir live fairly peacefully with habitat have left Gujarat's Gir Forest as the man. While they do prey on the local Maldhari Asiatic Lion's last remaining refuge. and Rabbari tribes' herds along with wild sambar or boar, they virtually never attack Easily distinguished from the larger African humans. Normally group hunters, families lion, the Indian lion weighs around 200kg live in female-dominated prides, while lone and is about 3m long (African lions are males pair up when stalking prey. typically a full foot longer). Indian lions also have a shaggier coat, as much of their former Founded in 1965, the Gir Forest National range was on the barren steppes of Central Park was home to 359 lions at the last count, Asia. with populations currently thriving.

04 BENGAL TIGER

Status: Endangered Habitat: Over 27 National Parks across India including Corbett, Manas, Periyar & Ranthambore

India's biggest cat, the Bengal Tiger is a poster child for global conservation. Ranging from the icy Himalayas to the steaming swamps of the Sunderbans, the Bengal Tiger is one of the subcontinent's most adaptable animals. Sadly, in the last 100 years, its numbers have dropped by about 90%, with an estimated 1,400 remaining in the wild in India.

The Bengal or "Royal Bengal" is one of 6 surviving tiger species (including the IndoChinese, Malayan, Siberian, South China and Sumatran). The most numerous of these, the 2,000 remaining Bengals are spread across India, Bangladesh, Bhutan

and Nepal, with the vast majority (70%) in India.

The Bengal Tiger relies on dense undergrowth for the stealth needed to exploit its thickly forested habitat. Both male and female tigers lead solitary lives, where large males average 3m long and often weigh 225kg, and may prowl a territory of 200sq.km. in search of quarry.

Nearly hunted to the brink of extinction, strict legislation came into effect under India's Wildlife Protection Act, along with the highly innovative Project Tiger. With an overwhelming majority of tiger deaths coming at the hands of illegal poachers, Project Tiger is combating the problem by repopulating tigers in nature reserves across the country.

Š Bernard Landgraf

SNOW LEOPARD

Status: Endangered Habitat: The Himalayas and isolated pockets in Central Asia, above 3,000m

Found across the Indian Himalayas from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh, the Snow Leopard lives most of its life between 3,0005,500m. Its movements mainly shadow its main prey – mountain goats and sheep – so they rarely descend below 2,000m.

Biologically, it's a bridge between big cat species (lions, tigers) and smaller species (Fishing Cats, Golden Cat), since it neither roars nor purrs. Adults rarely exceed 2m in length and 75kg, while its compact, muscular body helps conserve energy and heat. Ideally camouflaged for its rocky home range on or just above the snow line, the leopard's distinctive mottled-grey pelt has proved its undoing, where poaching wiped out most of the leopards in Central Asia.

Due to its high-altitude habitat and superior camouflage, leopards are rarely seen by man, but are currently thriving in India's remote Nanda Devi National Park, and the famous Valley of Flowers.

GHARIAL

Status: Critically Endangered Habitat: The Bhramaputra, Gang and Mahanadi Rivers and Corbett National Park

With their long, thin snout and distinctive bulbous nostrils, the Gharial are the most unique and rare of all crocodilians. Unlike most crocodilians that prefer to stalk large land animals concealed along murky river banks, the Gharial prefers fast-flowing rivers (like the Bramahputra, Ganga and Mahanadi) where the small fish it preys on are most abundant.

Native to only these rivers and sought after for their pelts, Gharial were dealt another near-extinction blow by the spate of early

dam-building projects along the major rivers during the 1970s. Having formerly ranged from Myanmar to Pakistan, Gharial were easy prey for early poachers.

The species was saved by egg-collection and captive breeding programmes and rebounded from just a few dozen specimens. Today, there are more than 1,200 Gharial living in the wild, and 800 in captivity.

Few of the surviving wild Gharial measure about 5m long. With a 50-year lifespan, most Gharials come from captive breeding and re-release programmes, with Corbett National Park (Uttarakhand) being one of the best places to see them in the wild.

Rajasthan is characterised by its harsh but beautiful desert landscape and its largely tribal people. Deeply seeded in tradition, Rajasthan and its ancient Rajput rulers where a dominant force in Medieval-era India. Fiercely independent, they were a Hindu bulwark against the invading Mughal emperors, and today their extravagant palaces and fortified cities, like Jaipur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur harken back to India's bygone era of princely states and the British Raj. Largely arid, the immense Thar Desert is its single most defining natural feature. Spreading across half the state, it's the most densely populated desert in the world, home to nearly 22 million Rajasthanis.

ECO-TOURISM IN RAJASTHAN Rajasthan has long been one of India's top

tourist destinations, famous for its desert safaris and ancient city tours. As most of Rajasthan's population is rural, this meant until recently that the prosperity generated by the tourism boom stayed in cities like Jaisalmer and Udaipur and urban tour companies merely ferried package tours in and out of the massive Thar Desert, often overlooking villages.

Until recent decades, farming was the mainstay for much of the state's population, especially its tribal people. But years of prolonged drought, desertification and global warming have curtailed many villages' ability to live off the land except for cattle grazing.

However, the establishment of numerous eco-tourism initiatives across the state in the last decade has filled the gaps created in struggling, agrarian villages. Many NGO's and forward-thinking ex-ruling families of many villages who've stayed on as village leaders have begun helping locals imple-

ment several sustainable, grassroots ecotourism projects.

While they vary from village to village, and tribe to tribe, they generally encourage a collective approach to handling tourists, with camels and guides on rota so that every family enjoys a slice of the prosperity.

In turn, each family contributes resources to communal projects like wells and sanitation.

With enough villages now directly involved in tourism, travellers have viable options, and have begun opting away from mass tourism. The villages now have tourism as an economy, in addition to their traditional agrarian lifestyle. More and more communities are becoming involved and some eco-touring options in Rajasthan include camel safaris and village tourism.

VISITING RURAL RAJASTHAN ACCOMMODATION Grassroots tourism in Rajasthan isn't just limited to rural villages. Dozens of former palaces, forts, garhs and havelis – an indespensible part of Rajasthani cultural heritage – are now opening their doors as heritage hotels. These buildings might have fallen by the wayside if not for their being re-purposed as accommodations, and can be found all over Rajasthan. These include Hotel Devigarh Fort in Udaipur, Ajit Bhawan Resort in Jodhpur and Hotel Lallgarh Palace in Bikaner. Quite a few practice eco-sensitive restorations and design, and have a social responsibility of giving back to the nearby villages, like the Savista in Jaipur.

GETTING THERE From Delhi, it is about 260 kms to the Rajasthani cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, accessible via daily flights, trains and buses. For more information on Rajasthan, visit www.rajasthantourism.gov.in.

Š Rajasthan Tourism

06 Camel Safari Rajasthan's biggest rural attraction is the Thar Desert, where self-sufficient camel safaris take visitors into the desert and back. The ship of the desert is an inseparable part of life here, providing transport, food and labour. While itineraries vary, the best-run trips focus on a mix of desert ruins, rare wildlife and direct contact with rural Rajasthanis.

The medieval cities of Bikaner and Jaisalmer are popular bases for camel safaris. There are a multitude choices for camel trips to the desert, from half-day camel-riding (ideal for beginners to get a feel for riding) to multi-day camping trips deeper into the desert, some of which may include village visits. The realistic minimum price for a safari is about Rs.450 to Rs.500 per person © Rajasthan Tourism

per day, which includes breakfast, lunch and dinner – all vegetarian.

Depending on the area, camel safaris are one of the best ways to see some of the Thar's rarest species, including the endangered Indian Wild Ass, and the rare Great Indian Bustard (a huge bird standing at 1m tall, weighing up to 15kg). Other species easily seen include birds of prey like eagles, falcons and harriers, and scavengers like the Bengal fox and vultures.

For the best trips, opt for safari companies that are owned and run by camel drivers from the local area. The highlight of which is that you can visit their local villages as a bonus. As competition amongst desert tourism is stiff, it pays to shop around for good safari providers, as the quality can vary greatly.

© Rajasthan Tourism

© Rajasthan Tourism

Village Coop Tour Apart from a handful of village tours and NGO-run initiatives, Rajasthan's rich art, culture and heritage are rarely explored in the countryside. Hence, the Government of Rajasthan has created a village coop tour called Raj Gramya, which focuses on rural Rajasthani village life in 26 villages across the state to help them augment their income from tourism.

Most of the villages are located near highways between major tourist sites, like Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaipur.

Villages include Khichan in Jodhpur (reputed for its finely-carved stone palaces as well as a nearby birdwatching haven), Rupsi in Jaisalmer (typical desert village known for

its Jain and Hindu temples) and Abhaneri in Jaipur (famous for its beautiful step wells, especially the 'Chand Bawdi'). Unique in Rajasthan, step wells are large ‘wells’ where the water can be reached by descending a set of steps, most of which are of architectural significance.

craftmaking, like carpentry, pottery and weaving which are specific to each village.

Heritage monuments, Rajasthani step wells and sites of historical importance will be visited along the way, and at the end, you can purchase a locally made handicraft as a memento.

The highlight of these tours are the unique vignettes into the simple pleasures of village life, where visitors can enjoy listening to folks songs played on the sarangi (a traditional Rajasthani guitar), or listen to a panchayat (village elder) tell stories about Rajastan's chequered past. In addition to that, you can experience daily village life as they go about their chores like harvesting or milking the cows, or witness their

To go on a Raj Gramya tour, you need to inform RICEM (Rajasthan Institute of Cooperative Education & Management based in Jaipur) a week in advance, so that they can send a guide to the village. A typical tour costs around Rs.300 per person for a set number of activities based on the village, and as such, the tariffs of every village differs.

Thanks to a multitude of nature documentaries, the Sundarbans is probably well known as the only place left where Bengal Tigers still hunt and kill humans. However, one has to understand that there is a "live and let live" policy between man and tiger, and it is only the locals who rely on the Sunderbans for a living that have anything to fear from these apex predators.

THE SUNDARBANS

Stretching along the shared border between India and Bangladesh, the Sundarbans cover an area of over 9,630sq.km. and is the world's largest single stretch of mangrove. It is also a complex network of small islands, cut through by dozens of river channels where the mighty Brahmaputra, Ganga and Meghna all converge before emptying into the Bay of Bengal.

Under the British, it was largely considered a malaria-infested wasteland and never developed, as the region's prone to excessive flooding during the annual cyclone season.

Largely forgotten by the colonial authorities, more than 1,000 villages grew up in the area, drawing in fishermen and landless farmers

from elsewhere in Bengal. By 1973, the area became one of India's first tiger reserves before being listed a World Heritage site in 1987, as studies revealed just how ecologically unique a destination it was.

ECO IMPORTANCE OF THE SUNDARBANS Given the area’s huge expanse, scientists have proven that it helps mitigate the worst effects of the seasonal cyclones that regularly strike the Bay of Bengal from April to May and October to November annually. Due to the area's fresh- and caustic saltwater conditions, the plants here must be hearty.

It's these plants that make the mangroves a critically important buffer zone, protecting inland coastal regions from the most severe

impacts of storm surges and flooding brought by the annual cyclone season.

What makes the mangroves so dynamic, is that soil is constantly being eroded by ocean tides, while new soil is continually being deposited by the out-flowing rivers. This means islands and river channels are constantly changing with every season. This harsh and highly vibrant environment means many animals share the limited supply of dry land and fresh water. Therefore, being forced to adapt in unexpected ways makes the Sundarbans one of the only places in the world with semi-aquatic tigers that hunt crab and fish.

08 SUNDARBAN TIGERS The Sundarbans encompass swamp, mud flats, shallow rivers and dense forest – an ideal habitat for the prowling tigers that thrive there today. A very rough estimate puts the number of resident tigers at 400 or more, automatically making it the world's largest tiger population.

While genetically related to India's other tigers, Sundarban tigers tend to be smaller and are unique in that they are highly adept swimmers, paddling between islands in search of prey. They are also famous as man-eaters; these opportunistic hunters have been known to feed on the occasional human in addition to crab or fish, as well as carrion or deer. While attacks on humans are infrequent – often to the poachers or illegal fishermen – the Sundarbans is one of the few remaining places in the world where the natural order has been preserved.

Opinions abound why tigers in the park occasionally prey on humans; explanations include that rising and falling tides make it impossible for tigers to scent-mark their territory, or that human fishermen waist-deep in water simply make an easy target.

Whatever the reason, preventative measures such as providing the tigers fresh drinking water away from villages have reduced attacks by 75% in recent years.

and other fishing birds, as well as a breeding ground and migratory stop for millions of other birds that make their way annually from Europe to Asia.

Among its 50 species of reptiles and 45 species of mammals, there are large populations of the endangered Estuarian Crocodile and Ganges' Dolphin, in addition to chittal, macaques, wild boar and several rare turtle species including the Green and Olive Ridley turtle, as well as the critically endangered Hawksbill.

The Sundarbans also has numerous other sites for visitors, including the centuries-old Netidhopani Temple deep in the mangroves, Holiday Island (famous for thousands of barking deer) and Tin Kona Island, which attracts a multitude of deer, birds and other wildlife.

ECO TOURISM With more than 1,000 villages around the vast reserve, one of the greatest conservation challenges to overcome is cooperatively engaging locals. The Sundarbans are as

unforgiving an environment for these settlers as they are for its hearty wildlife. With illegal fishing and wood gathering for fuel still problems, several initiatives have been launched to both help local villagers make a living and reduce the incentive to poach.

The park gives direct employment through training courses to certify local guides and anti-poaching patrols, pairing teams of villagers with rangers. Many villages also now have resident "Forest Protection Committees," that with the help of the park's wardens and NGOs, educate locals and try to find individualised, creative, eco-friendly solutions specific to the needs of each village.

This has meant that some villages now rear prawns and fish for local consumption and eventually for sale in nearby towns, which in turn has put a big dent in illegal fishing.

Some cultivate their own additional mangroves on the fringes of the park, which can be used for fuel and don't require going into the park itself. Many also use more efficiently-burning chullahs (stoves), that use less fuel and are smokeless.

OTHER DENIZENS In addition to 10% of the world's tiger population, the reserve boasts 300+ species of birds, including half of India's 12 species of kingfisher, as well as being one of only 2 sites in India for the Mangrove Whistler. The park's also an important habitat for storks

VISITING SUNDARBANS In a place as complex and wild as the Sundarbans, access to the park is by permit, where reputable tour operators can arrange everything. There are several award-winning operators that organise trips into the Sundarbans, many with camps within the mangroves that operate on strict, sustainable policies. These include award winning outfits like the Sunderban Tiger Camp, as well as many other independent lodges who can readily organise boat and foot safaris and even homestays with local Bengali villagers.

While two of the most potentially dangerous animals on earth reside within the Sundarbans (the tiger and the crocodile), very little risk is posed to the average tourist as they only prey on villagers gathering fire wood or honey deep within the forest.

GETTING THERE The Sundarbans are only accessible by water. Most visitors come via road from Kolkata, or train directly to Port Canning (50km). Port Canning is the nearest major town from where boats are organised into the park.

Boasting soaring, snowcapped peaks, raging rivers and clean mountain air, Sikkim is the very definition of ‘The Himalayas.’ Starting from just 300m above sea level in the far south, Sikkim climbs to 8,500m in the west over a distance of just 50km.

With unnavigable rivers and no railroads, Sikkim is a rough-hewn patchwork of remote villages separated by vast mountains and few sealed roads. While this makes getting there a challenge, it has helped keep visitor numbers at manageable amounts.

The main way into Sikkim is along a bumpy, 4-hour ride from the nearest airport in Bagdogra (West Bengal).

Eco travel in Sikkim takes on many forms. There's wildlife spotting for rare species like Red Panda, cultural experiences with locals (from homestays to

volunteer projects in local schools) as well as trekking in remote areas like the famous Khangchendzonga National Park.

As an isolated region, Sikkim understands the importance of ecosustainability, and adopted a tough stand on the environment nearly 2 decades ago. The state has many reforestation initiatives and strict regulations on sustainable trekking.

There's a ban on plastic bags and all non-eco friendly industries, as well as of killing any wildlife. Sikkim also aims to be India's first all-organic state, banning use of insecticides and pesticides, allowing only bio-manure fertiliser. So, while tourism numbers grow, the tourism industry's impact on the fragile Himalayan landscape remains (largely) sustainable.

ECO-EXPERIENCES IN SIKKIM

THE SIKKIMESE The Sikkimese are widely regarded as some of India's friendliest, likely due to their pristine environment and higher-than-average standards of income and literacy. A mix of ethnic Nepalis, Tibetans and the Lepchas (Sikkim's native, aboriginal people), the majority often speak some English, alongside Nepali or local dialects.

While most travellers associate Sikkim with Buddhist monasteries (owing to its Nepali majority), the state's predominately Hindu.

Both religious communities live in harmony, and share many of the same sacred locations, such as Lake Tsongmo.

10 ECOTOURISM These days, eco travellers are helping to preserve both the state of the natural and cultural environment as it is by enriching the lives of locals by supporting responsiblyrun, grassroots projects and initiatives.

Obviously the easiest way to do this is by travelling with reputable operators who don't just claim eco-credentials, but actually explain how they are helping local communities through your presence.

ECO TREKKING SINGALILA Sikkim is bordered by the Singalila range on its western border and the Chola range on its east. The crowning glory of the Singalila is Mt. Khangchendzonga (8,596m), the third highest mountain in the world.

The Yambong Singalila range is one of the rare spots on earth where the view embraces five summits rising above 7,000m, amongst them Everest, Makalu and Lhotse of Nepal, as well as Khangchendzonga and Sinolchu in Sikkim. Here, globally endangered animals like Red Panda, Himalayan Tahr, Blue Sheep and Himalayan Black Bear can be found, making it a paradise for hikers and trekkers.

The best way to experience the trek is by hiring local guides and cooks who are part of eco initiatives formed for the effective management of ecotourism along the valley, in close collaboration with NGOs like ECOSS (Ecotourism and Conservation Society of

Sikkim), and TMI (The Mountain Institute, India).

ECOSS Through its Khangchendzonga community development within the 1,784sq.km.

Khangchendzonga Biosphere Reserve, ECOSS zooms in on the unemployment and environmental degradation in local villages by focusing on socio-economic empowerment of the 8,000+ residents of Darap, Nambu, Uttarey and Yuksam, the major settlements around Khangchendzonga's 800sq.km. buffer zone.

ECOSS trains a large number of locals – who are unemployed due to their reliance on caradamom planting which is in severe decline – to make viable livelihoods as nature guides and cooks for trekking groups.

TMI TMI’s Khangchendzonga Livelihood and Conservation Project successfully ended the local practice of grazing yaks and cattle in the fragile park – something with a huge negative impact on the ecosystem. In return, they made these local farmers a part of a community-based tourism operation for which TMI has plotted viable trekking routes, established permanent eco-friendly camps and trained locals as cooks and guides. The locals continue to earn money in low-season by maintaining trials or cleaning campsites.

Visit www.yambong.com for treks organised in collaboration with TMI and YEC.

LEPCHA HOMESTAY Situated in Northwest Sikkim between 800m and 6,000m, the Dzongu region was offlimits to all non-Lepcha until recently, and remains Sikkim's least developed district.

Secured as a "homeland" for the minority Lepchas, their lives revolved around cardamom production in the high forests.

While nominally Buddhists, the Lepcha are far removed from Sikkim's cultural, economic and religious mainstream.

One of the best ways to experience Lepcha culture while helping them is to go on an organised homestay. There are currently over a dozen homestays available in the Dzongu region pioneered by groups like Nature Beyond, providing an unparalleled window into the remote community's life.

The Dzongu community tourism was the brainchild of local educated youths who abhorred the idea of their community vanishing due to economic brain drain. In collaboration with ECOSS, they oversee the establishment of homestays within the community in collaboration with residents, local authorities and NGOs. Homestays range from Rs. 300/person, including a private room, hot water and local Lepcha meals. For more info on homestays, visit www.sikkiminfo.net/ecoss.

GETTING THERE Access to and from Sikkim is via Bagdogra Airport (124km) in West Bengal, with Sikkim's administrative centre Gangtok a half-day trip overland via minibus-taxi (a flat fare of Rs.1,450/vehicle), or a 30-minute helicopter ride (rates vary depending on season from Rs. 2,000/person). Bagdogra connects with international flights via major Indian airports including Delhi, Kolkata and Mumbai.

VALLEY OF FLOWERS, UTTARKHAND Size: 87sq.km.

Status: World Heritage Site (1982) What to see: Wild flowers in full bloom and rare Himalayan fauna Best time to visit: July-Aug, Sep-Oct Sacred to Hindus and Sikhs, the Valley of Flowers and nearby Lake Lokpal are a centuries-old pilgrimage site. Considered by scientists to be a 'botanical Shangri La', the park sits at the foot of India's second highest peak, Nanda Devi (7,816m). The valley is home to some of India's rarest mammals, birds and rolling meadows of many of the world's rarest flowers. Colours change week to week during summer, from purple to orange and pink.

There are 3 distinct ecosystems: from 2,400 - 3,000m, is a temperate zone that support lowland Himalayan species. From 3,000 3,400 it's sub-Alpine with rhododendron forests and abundant wildflowers. Finally, above 3,500m, the Alpine zone supports

many unique, tiny flowers until the snowline.

Of its 300 types of plants, 7 are endemic just to the valley, while 31 more are critically endangered.

All 13 of the valley's mammals – from Himalayan musk deer to snow leopard and Asiatic black bear – are endangered, as well as many of the park's 82 types of birds.

As one of India's most fragile ecosystems, the valley has strict visitor rules in place. No camping or lodges are allowed within the park, so trips must be completed in a single day. Situated above Auli (India's best known ski resort), it's 15km on foot into the Valley via the village of Ghangaria, where overnight options are available.

When to Go The flowering season peaks during monsoon season (Jul-Aug), but there's always something blooming year round. Single and multi-day tickets are available at the park office in Ghangaria (Rs.350).

India has 27 World Heritage sites and nearly 500 more national parks and wildlife sanctuaries, home to almost 90,000 species of animals, and 50,000 types of plants, of which 322 are endangered and more than 5,000 are endemic. While it's almost impossible to visit all of India's diverse parks, several stand out for their particularly unique terrain ranging from the frozen peaks of the Himalayas and Thar Desert to the jungles of Tamil Nadu and Kerala.

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© Rita Willaert

KAZIRANGA, ASSAM Size: 430sq.km.

Status: World Heritage Site (1985) What to see: Rhinos and tigers Best time to visit: Feb-Mar Located in the fertile plains of Assam's mighty Brahmaputra River, Kaziranga National Park is home to 2 of India's rarest animals: the Bengal Tiger and Indian Rhino. Thanks to its smaller size and high proportion of rhinos and tigers, along with massive gaur, leopards, elephants, Golden Langur and the Ganges Dolphin, Kaziranga's one of best parks in the world for spotting wildlife. Its position along the Brahmaputra's floodplain means

it's home to nearly 500 species of bird, including several rare birds of prey like Eastern Imperial and Crested Serpent eagles.

There's relatively few places to see the Indian Rhino; hunted nearly to extinction during the colonial era. Today, its numbers have reached 1,800, thanks to the park's solid management and the involvement of the surrounding communities.

In 2006, Kaziranga became part of Project Tiger, with around 80 cats in the park.

Stalking the tall grass areas, they're the rhino's only potential predator who occasionally take young calves.

Things to do The classic experience is an elephant safari as rhinos tend not to react to elephants, unlike safari jeeps. Wildlife watching, safaris and birding are the main activities in Kaziranga. Visitors are restricted to organised safaris, with all excursions setting out from Kohora, the park's gateway town. There are currently 3 government-run guest lodges inside the park, with over 30 public and private resorts just outside the park that employ local villagers. Most accommodations can arrange your park entry fee (Rs.250/day), elephant (Rs.750) or jeep safaris (Rs.200), and armed safari guides (Rs.50).

12 KEOLADEO GHANA, RAJASTHAN Size: Size 29sq.km.

Status: National Park What to see: Hundreds of species of bird Best time to visit: October - March At just 2-3 hours drive from Delhi, the bird sanctuary at Keoladeo Ghana is one of the country's most rewarding national parks.

The park's a mix of jheels (lakes) interspersed with extensive woodlands, created by the Maharaja of Bharatpur, who diverted a nearby river to make the lake and added woodlands and thus forming a blue belt on an otherwise dry plateau.

It's home to over 400 species of birds, including hundreds of types of waterfowl

flocking in their millions during monsoon when nearly half the park is flooded. Each bird seems to find its own niche; jacanas and moorhens breed amongst floating vegetation, while several thousand painted storks live next to them. Then there are dozens of migratory species, like the Siberian crane from Russia and Central Asia.

One of Keoladeo's most famous features is its immense rookeries. Thousands of trees within the park are occupied by up to 10 different species (cormorants, egrets, herons, painted stori, shags, spoonbills and white ibis) on each tree. The park's also home to 39 types of birds of prey, including peregrine falcons and several kinds of eagle, harriers

and kites, as well as several of the world's largest species of bird, like the 2m-tall Sarus crane and black vulture with its 3m wingspan.

Keoledeo is also home to mammals like the Golden Jackal, sambar, wild boar and even leopards.

When to Go The best season to visit is October - March, when over 100 species of migratory birds flock here in the thousands. Vehicles are only permitted up to the Forest Lodge, after which only bicycles or cycle rickshaws are allowed (rickshaw wallahs make good birdspotting guides).

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TAGE MT. MEESAPULIMALA AND ERAVIKULAM NATIONAL PARK, KERALA Length: 25km What to see: South India's highest peaks, World's highest tea estate, rare Nilgiri tahr Best time to visit: October - March The hill station of Munnar (1,524m) in the Western Ghats is famous for its cool temps and tea gardens, as well as a range of hiking and climbing routes. While South India's highest peak (Anamudi) is currently off-limits to protect local fauna, the neighbouring peak of Meesapulimala (2,650m) is becoming a popular trek. The route runs through tea plantations and extensive montane forests that are home to elephant, sambar and sloth bear, before rising to a series of cloud-swept, knife-edge ridges.

Starting in Silent Valley (1,300m), the route is an undulating climb of 9 ridges along the

way to the summit of Meesapulimala. During the day, the slopes are frequented by the endangered Nilgiri tahr, while elephants come out to graze at dusk, meaning hikers have to be off the mountain before dark for safety reasons. From Meesapulimala's ridgeline, the views stretch across the surrounding Kodaikanal Hills and tea plantations below.

On the descent, you'll see neighbouring summit of Kolukkumalai – at 2,400m, it's the world's highest tea estate. The route descends steeply back down through montane forest following a river valley for several kilometres before emerging into a lush tea garden where you can have a cup of locally brewed tea.

This trek offers sightings of extremely rare tahr on the high slopes, along with exotic birdlife, as well as a challenging climb and breathtaking scenery from the ridge.

TIGER PARK SAFARIS

RANTHAMBORE

The Project Tiger scheme was initiated in 1973 to protect the Bengal Tiger population in India.

Beginning with 9 tiger reserves, there are nearly 40 tiger reserves today, with a population of about 4,000 tigers throughout the country. The best way to see these majestic big cats in the wild is to head for a safari in one of India's many diverse parks. These are some of the parks with the best tiger densities in the country:

RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK, RAJASTHAN

Size: 1,334sq.km.

Best season: October-May Safari options: Jeeps (Rs.1,050/vehicle) and canters (Rs.150/person) Entrance: Rs.200 Nearest town: Sawai Madhopur

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The famous Ranthambore National Park is a wild jungle scrub surrounded by rocky ridges, with the 10th century Ranthambore Fort at its centre. There are many crocodile-filled lakes, cenotaphs, as well as ancient temples and mosques scattered across the park.

The fort itself is worth the walk up, as the views are refreshing and tigers can be spotted from there.

Tigers in the park are so used to being observed that they're not scared of human visitors in their vehicles, and will occasionally hunt in full view of them. There are also more than 300 species of birds in the park, including huge serpent eagles and vultures.

The 3-hour safaris take place in early morning and late afternoon, where you have the option of going in a 6-seater jeep or a 20person canter (open bus). Only 15 of each are allowed in the park per session, so it's on a first-come-first-served basis. Compulsory guides will lead you down one of 8 allocated routes.

There are a number of excellent accommodation options along Ranthambore Road, while nearby Sawai Madhopur has some budget options.

NAGARHOLE NATIONAL PARK, KARNATAKA

Size: 643sq.km.

Best season: April to May/November to February Safari options: Bus (Rs25/person), jeep and boat Entrance: Rs.150 Nearest town: Mysore Also known as Rajiv Gandhi National Park, Nagarhole is part of the larger Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve which is important for its huge plant diversity. The exclusive hunting reserve of the former rulers of Mysore, the park has rich forest cover, small streams, valleys and waterfalls.

The park is home to a sizeable tiger population (with a healthy tiger-predator ratio), as well as a large populace of elephants. In addition to that, leopards, wild dogs and sloth bears are found in viable numbers. Animal sightings here are more common than at the neighbouring Bandipur National Park. Other park inhabitants include local tribespeople like Jenu Kurubas (honey-gatherers), Betta Kurubas (hill tribes) and Hakki-Pikki (bird trappers).

The best way to see the wildlife is by staying at a lodge within the park; the Kabini Lake side of the reserve has the best accommodation and the best views, and room rates include full board with 2 safari drives (morning and early evening) by either jeep or boat. Chances of spotting tigers are higher at the park entrance, where several accommodation options here also offer all-inclusive packages.

If not staying at a lodge, the only way to see the park is on a bus tour. Take note that although this is a tropical climate, winter temperatures can drop to 4ยบC.

14 KANHA NATIONAL PARK, MADHYA PRADESH

Size: 1,945sq.km.

Best season: February to June Safari options: Gypsies/jeeps (Rs.900 per 60km) and elephants Entrance: Rs.500/750/1000 for 1/2/3 drives Nearest town: Jabalpur Kanha regularly tops lists of the best places to glimpse a tiger in India, while its lush sal and bamboo forests, grassy meadows and ravines provided inspiration to Rudyard Kipling for his famous novel 'Jungle Book'. Kanha is one of 4 of Madhya Pradesh's national parks (Panna, Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh) with high tiger populations.

Kanha is also home to leopards, deer (including the very rare Barasingha) and over 300 species of birds. Nearby is Bamni Dadar, a superb location to catch the sunset, where the resident deer population can often be seen.

Entrance to the park is priced by the number of 'drives': there are two 4-hour drives per day (after dawn and before sunset). Most sightings are on the morning drive, when prior to visitor arrivals, mahouts on elephants track down tiger population and relay the sightings to a central point where the info is relayed to jeeps and other mahouts.

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A mandatory guide (Rs.100-400 per drive) is required for private vehicle entry as well as gypsy (jeep) hire. Elephants are a great way to get closer to tigers, especially in places where jeeps can't access. You can book gypsies and elephants in advance either at one of the gates or from a hotel nearby.

There are many accommodation options in the surrounding villages of Khatia, Mukki and Kisli. MP Tourism runs Baghira Log Huts within the core zone. Most accommodations run decent packages which include accommodation, meals, elephant safaris, guides and park fees.

When on a safari, it is recommended that you wear clothings with neutral khakis, greys or green colours. As the weather varies greatly between summer and winter, as well as daytime and night time, you should also bring ample warm clothing.

During the daytime, the sun can be intense (especially in summer when it reaches 40ºC), and as most safari jeeps and elephant rides don’t provide shades, it’s essential to bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat.

Binoculars are handy to spot wildlife – including birds and shy animals.

SIMLIPAL NATIONAL PARK, ORISSA

Size: 2,750sq.km.

Best season: 1 October to 15 June Safari options: Jeep (Rs1,200-2,000/day) or tours Entrance: Rs.1,000 Nearest town: Bhubaneswar Situated in Orissa, the park is a high plateau with remarkable scenery of various picturesque peaks creased by valleys and gorges. The area is made more dramatic with the presence of many waterfalls, including the 400m-high Barheipani Waterfall and the 150m-high Joranda Waterfall. Once the hunting grounds of the Maharaja of Mayurbhanj, the park's fauna is a mix of dense sal forest and rolling open savanna.

As the largest wildlife sanctuary in India, the main attraction here is its tigers, although there are also 42 other mammals including the leopard and its preys, the chital and sambar deers. The tigers here aren't tracked, and the best place to find them is at the Joranda salt lick. There are over 400 elephants in the park, which can be spotted around the Chahala salt lick.

There are 2 entrances to the park: Jashipur on the northwest and Baripada to the west.

You can come for a day-trip or an overnight visit (permits can be obtained at either entrance). Baripada (where Orissa Tourism is located) is a better place to organise a visit to the park, where tours, accommodation and packages can be arranged.

Accommodation within the park has to be booked in advance. Most accommodations are at 700m above sea level, so winter night temperatures plummet to zero.

India Tourism, #01-01 United House, 20 Kramat Lane, Singapore 228773. Tel: (65) 6235 3800 Fax: (65) 6235 8677