Sports+Travel Singapore | Issue 47 by Sports+Travel

MICA (P) 039/03/2012

SEP-OCT 2012

ISSUE 47 National Parks Issue India | Taiwan | Korea

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For a list of our distribution outlets, visit www.sportsandtravelonline.com. Sports and Travel is a publication of Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd (Singapore). All articles published are in good faith and based on bona fide information available to The Publisher at the time of press. The Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law. The Publisher also accepts no responsibilty for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or full without the previous written permission of The Publisher. Neither can any part be stored or recorded, by any means. The opinions expressed in The Publication are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by The Publisher. This publication and the name are owned solely by Lennox and Ooi Media Pte Ltd, 391B Orchard Road, #13-09 Ngee Ann City, Tower B, Singapore 239974. Email: enquiry@sportsandtravelonline.com. Sports + Travel Singapore is published bimonthly and distributed throughout Singapore. Trademarks and copyrights for all other products, logos and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyright owners. All colour separation and printing by International Press Softcom Ltd. Singapore MICA (P) 039/03/2012

Protected Lands

This issue, we feature one of our most popular subjects: national parks. With the rise of modern urban development, these protected green places – whether they’re natural or manmade – provide an escape into a world that might have been relegated to history books.

Starting with our cover story, we visit India’s amazing Northeast, covering the Himalayan darlings of Darjeeling and Sikkim, before heading over to Assam’s famous Kaziranga – which is quickly recovering after the recent floods and well and truly back in business as the world’s best place to see rhinos and tigers. Then there’s Taiwan, where we give a brief overview of all 8 of its national parks, from time-warped Kinmen to the remote Dongsha Atoll. Close to home, Sarawak and Brunei both offer you the opportunity to explore some of the last vestiges of rainforest that house plenty of natural and manmade attractions. If you prefer getting rarely-visited stamps on your passport, then Uzbekistan’s remote Qyzyl Qum Desert and and the towering Pamirs on the Tajik border will satisfy your craving for being off the beaten track. If you love being by the ocean, then drop in on Kaikoura, New Zealand, where huge encounters happen everyday with the local Sperm Whales. If you prefer warmer weather, the Seychelles is home to other kinds of giants altogether; here, you can walk amongst the naughty-looking nuts of the Coco-de-mer, and perhaps mingle with the local population of giant tortoises. In Europe, we visit Croatia’s Adriatic coast at Makarska Riviera, soaking in the ocean and mountain, before heading to the world famous Plitvice Lakes with its collection of cascading lakes. We then climb high in the Alps to the Renaissance-era gem of Bergamo, Italy, with its heady mix of Medieval old town and sensational ski resorts. Finally, the stunning summits and zen temple trails of Korea’s Gangwon-do are calling, so take a short excursion from bustling Seoul and head into the woods for some soul cleansing hikes in one of the most magnificent natural landscapes in the world.

Our Team Editor-in-Chief May Lynn Writer Konrad Clapp Samantha Pereira Creative Director Lynn Ooi Designer Marilyn Wong General Manager Aaron Stewart

Media Rep Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd 242A River Valley Road Singapore 238299 Tel 6732 0325 www.sportsandtravelonline.com sportsntravel@gmail.com Sports and Travel Limited Rm. 1104 Crawford House 70 Queen’s Road Central Hong Kong Tel +852 2861 8746 Fax +852 2961 4800 enquiry@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Advertising Sales Singapore Aaron Stewart, Lennox & Ooi Media aaron.stewart@sportsandtravelonline.com

Hong Kong Chris Ng cng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Contributors Eugene Soh, Ken Berg Prabhu Silvam, Samantha Pereira

Special Thanks Gangwon Tourism and many, many others!

Until then, Happy Trails! OUR WEBSITE: www.sportsandtravelonline.com

RUN FOR CHARITY: FROST THE TRAIL The 7th annual Frost The Trail charity race was recently held on 25 August, 2012 at MacRitchie Reservoir. Raising over S$115,000 for the Bright Hill Evergreen Home, it attracted 600+ runners including the Sports + Travel team. Finishing in a respectable time, S+T formed the rear guard behind the slightly more respectable times of top teams including Cisco, Orange Business Services, Telekom Malaysia Berhad among others. For more information on Frost The Trail 2013 stay tuned to www.frost-apac.com from spring 2013.

OUR FACEBOOK PAGE: fb.com/SportsandTravelSingapore OUR BLOG: http://sportsandtravelsg.wordpress.com

Renowned for its ancient rainforest and mighty rivers, Sarawak combines some of the best of Borneo in one place. Brimming with copious greenery and breathtaking organic landscapes – from tree-strangled hills and statuesque sea stacks to yawning caves – Sarawak is a port of call for any eco adventurer, and it even promises not to leave a dent in your pocket.

SARAWAK’S ECO GEMS NATIONAL PARKS Gunung Mulu National Park Among its many superlatives, Sarawak is also home to numerous world records, including the world’s largest underground cave chamber in Gunung Mulu National Park. The massive Sarawak Chamber (700m long, 400m wide and about 100m high) is such a prodigious cavern that if it ever became a makeshift hangar, it would be able to house more than 40 Boeing 747 aircrafts. The cave system in Mulu also house a few other record holders, including the Deer Cave (4,100 metres) and Clearwater Cave (37 million cubic metres), both known for their length and volume, respectively.

However, the real gold star of Mulu National Park is its mosaic of terrains. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to razor-sharp limestone and sandstone peaks, deep gorges and scenic banks, making it a dramatic backdrop to hikes in the rainforest. Access to this remote area is possible from Mulu Airport, or by a 12-hour river journey from Miri about 100km away. Bako National Park Famous for its coastal ecology, Bako is easily accessible from Kuching. Wildlife abounds in this park, and it’s not uncommon to see proboscis monkeys, langurs and wild boars, in addition to its reptilian residents like monitor lizards and a variety of arboreal

TEXT BY Samantha Pereira PHOTOS FROM Sarawak Tourism Board snakes. The park can be explored on foot along its boardwalks and hiking trails, while its coastal geology can be observed from aboard motorboats. Flora and fauna Sarawak’s jungle is also home to the world’s largest flower – the Rafflesia. Notorious for emitting a repulsive odour that resembles rotting flesh, its charm lies in its scarcity as well as the spectacular bloom that happens for a mere few days (roughly 5 to 6 days) before it withers. Also native to the limestone mountains of Sarawak is the Pitcher plant, famous for its flesh-eating ways by sitting pretty at the top of the insect food chain.

Besides the diversity of its flora, Sarawak is also layered with exotic cultures which are predominantly made up of Sarawak’s many indigenous tribes. With 28 different ethnicities populating the state, the largest groups include the Ibans, followed by the Bidayuh, Penan, Orang Ulu and Melanau. Even with the reflection of different languages, practices and food, there is a common thread that binds these tribes together, and that is their ancestral home: the longhouse. Built with axe-hewn timber and riveted with creeper fiber, this traditional abode is Sarawak’s once unique approach of housing whole villages under one roof.

While plenty of longhouses incorporate modern elements like tin roofs and televisions, there are some that still cling onto traditional building methods, located mostly away from the hustle of busy towns. Longhouses are the best alternative to experiencing the veritable marrow of Sarawak’s native lifestyle. You can assimilate with the different cultures first-hand by sitting in the ruai (a gallery that runs through the length of a longhouse) and sipping on tuak – Sarawak’s culture summed up in an elixir fabricated by fermenting rice, yeast and sugar together. There may also be entertainment in the form of traditional music and elaborate dances performed by the locals.

Plenty of longhouses can be found along the Rejang River, and Belaga is a good jumpingoff point to explore Sarawak’s interior and traditional longhouses. can easily arrange for day trips or longhouse homestays with several villages located along the Rejang River or in the vicinity of Kuching. The best time to visit is during festivals like the Gawai Dayak, held on 1 June annually.

Malaysia

CULTURE ZONE

For more information on Sarawak, visit the official website at www.sarawaktourism.com.

CONSERVATION EFFORTS Sarawak’s fame also lies in its conservation culture. Even with increasing urban development, Sarawak is intensifying its efforts of protecting its endemic wildlife and flora by setting up several projects like the Reef Ball campaign that was initiated to rejuvenate Sarawak’s ocean ecosystem by pegging artificial reefs in the seabed to pollinate new colonies. Another unique approach to the conservation of traditional culture is Sarawak’s renowned Rainforest World Music Festival. Created in 2005 and initially attended by only 400 people, this event has come a long way with its success and awareness. It is now an annual event held on the grounds of the Sarawak Cultural village, a villagethemed park located in Kuching (the capital of Sarawak). This world-acclaimed music festival teems with indigenous musicians

and global artistes, performing both traditional and contemporary music.

therapeutically getting down and dirty in big muddy pits specifically set up for the event.

Another claim to fame for this event is that is takes place during the monsoon season, and the tradition championed by all the attendees is to dance to the tunes by

To partake in this cathartic experience, the next Rainforest World Music Festival will be held from 28 – 30 June 2013.

GEAR GUIDE

Columbia Zephyr Ridge

WARMING WINDBREAKER Columbia's Zephyr Ridge jacket was made for protecting those engaged in heavy exertion in cold conditions. The jacket features Columbia's ultra-breathable Omni-Wind Block technology to protect the wearer from chilly wind and rain while providing breathability for perspiration to escape. The Omni-Heat lining provides thermo-regulation to generate and keep the heat in, while the Omni-Shield technology aids in keeping rain (as well as stains) off. The Zephyr Ridge is available at Columbia stores and selected World of Sports and World of Outdoors stores, retailing at S$299.90.

The North Face Alteo 50

AIRPACK

BORN IN THE WOODS Established in 1932, Danner's Nobo Mid GTX hiking boots were developed to provide comfort and stability needed for long and fast hikes. The Nobo features a waterproof breathable Gore-Tex liner for full protection from the wet, while the lightweight Trailguard platform is ideal for fast and light hikes. The antimicrobial mesh lining and lightweight moisturewicking footbed gives comfort on the trail, while the stitchdown construction gives the boots a wider, more stable platform. The Nobo Mid GTX is available at Campers' Corner at S$220.

Danner Nobo Mid GTX

The North Face's Alteo 50 backpack features a Windtunnel back panel that provides plenty of ventilation to cool your back on long hikes. The anatomically-padded trampoline configuration also vents warm air through a chimney while drawing cool air from the unobstructed sides. The articulated back lets you twist, stretch or turn comfortably, while its articulated hipbelt and shoulder straps are wrapped with DriLex moisture-wicking fabric to keep your comfort areas dry. This 50L pack (which comes with fitted rain cover) is remarkably light, and features tough mini-ripstop pack fabric. The Alteo 50 is available at The North Face at S$376.

WOBBLY WATER BUDDY

Pacsafe Ultimatesafe 22L

HIGH SECURITY Ideal for short breaks, Pacsafe's Ultimatesafe 22L anti-theft backpack is made with slashproof Carrysafe straps with smart zipper technology, made comfortable with ergonomic shoulder straps and padded back support. It comes with a 12L removable lock-and-leave eXomesh slashproof â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;safeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for important essentials as well as a removable 15" padded laptop/iPad sleeve. The RFIDsafe blocking pocket prevents personal data from being read by the wrong people. The Ultimatesafe is now available at The Planet Traveller at S$359.

One of the most versatile one-litre vessels on the trail, the Platypus bottle is collapsible when it's empty, making it more compact (and 80% lighter) than empty hard bottles of equal volume. The upgraded bottle features an all-new film that is softer, more flexible and durable, while the silver-ion based anti-microbial coating (called SlimeGuard) helps keep water tasting fresh. The tapered midsection with new grab and hang look makes for easy drinking and transport, while the opening allows you to attach a variety of lids, including hydration tubes. Available at Outdoor Life, retailing at S$22.15.

Platypus Bottle

The North Face Blaze

FREE-TRAILING Capitalising on the barefoot trail running trend, Salomon introduces the Synapse Asphalt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the first natural motion hiking shoe made for those who want shoes that lets them move fluidly on a variety of terrain while providing extremely lightweight cushioning and flexion. It features a Dynamic Ridge which provides light, flexible cushioning that adds rebound into the sole, and Dynamic Traction which combines multidirectional grip and staggered reversed lugs for great traction. True to the Salomon brand, features its welded Sensifit and Quicklace, with toecap and mud guard for protection. Available at the Salomon store, selected World of Sports and World of Outdoors stores, retailing at S$209.

Salomon Synapse Ashpalt

07 PACKABLE DUVET The North Face's Blaze Full-Zip jacket is a super light and warm synthetic-insulated full zip jacket that not only provides warmth, but also saves space as it packs down into its own hand pocket. The FlashDry thermal insulation provides a good warmth-to-weight ratio; the porous particles work with your body to regulate temperature by accelerating moisture removal to improve drying time. It's available in men's and women's versions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the latter featuring petite quilting for a feminine, sweater-like fit. The Blaze is available at The North Face at S$336.

Covering a vast area of 447,000sq.km., while Uzbekistan’s best-known to visitors for its ancient Silk Road cities like Bukhara and Samarkand, its many national parks and distinctive wildlife offer an entirely different dimension beyond the ancient man-made, in what’s otherwise one of the world’s most historic destinations.

Qyzylqum Desert

UZBEKISTAN

UZBEKISTAN’S NATIONAL PARKS Uzbekistan is home to 10 zapovedniki, a catch-all name for its national parks and numerous protected areas, ranging from the stark beauty of the Qyzylqum Desert to the soaring Pamir Mountains in Gissar. Situated at the heart of Central Asia, it’s both a migratory cross-road for more than 400 types of bird, as well as a prime biodiversity hotspot, with floral endemism as high as 20% in the most isolated mountain valleys.

TASHKENT Chatkalsky

GETTING THERE Uzbekistan Airways (www.uzairways.com) has thriceweekly direct KL-Tashkent services (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday), with numerous Singapore operators running various outdoor trips including 15-day Pamir packages through X-Trekkers (www.x-trekkers.com).

Bukhara

Samarkand

Gissar

UZBEKISTAN’S NATIONAL PARKS

CHATKALSKY NATIONAL PARK Located very near Tashkent (100km, 2hrs.), Chatkalsky is one of the country’s most accessible reserves. Situated within the soaring Chimgan Mountains which top at over 3,500m, it boasts Uzbekistan’s main ski fields in winter, while its extremely good infrastructure (accommodations, guides, trails etc.) makes trekking easy in summer. Encompassing a contiguous mix of alpine forests dotted with local villages and orchards, the core area of Chatkalsky (352sq.km.) lies within the larger UgamChatcal National Park, and is home to an

impressively large range of predators like lynx, the Tien-Shan bear, wolves and even snow leopard, alongside various species of deer, fox, rabbit and soaring raptors. Given its UNESCO Biosphere status, sightings of most species – with the exception of the ultra-elusive snow leopard – are surprisingly frequent on treks beyond the main settlements. Some of Chimgan’s best hikes include the Gulkam Gorge and Chirchik Valley, both of which are easily organised as overnight trips by local operators in Tashkent.

UNTOUCHED GISSAR High in the Pamir Mountains along the Uzbek-Tajik border, the Gissar National Park encompasses Uzbekistan’s tallest peaks, largest glaciers and most untouched wilderness. Relatively remote, it’s a full-day

At 800sq.km., Gissar is Uzbekistan’s largest reserve. Boasting a mix of extensive alpine meadows and mountainous forests, its rugged terrain has meant it’s been left virtually untouched by man, which has allowed native flora and fauna to thrive. And today the park is home more than 870 types of plant (many endemic) and 140 species of animals including bear, deer, marmot and snow leopard. An ideal, if intensely rugged trekking destination, Gissar has dozens of peaks over 3,000m. Local guides are a must, which is

THE DESERTS OF QYZYLQUM Far from the snowy slopes of Chimgan, the Qyzylqum (or Kyzyl Kum) National Park (100sq.km.) packs in a hugely diverse mix of rolling sand dunes, rugged grasslands, isolated desert settlements and the ecologically unique Amu Daryo, a series of improbable islands within the desert, clustered around the mouth of the Amu River. Situated within the expansive Qyzylqum Desert and stretching across the borderlands of Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan, the park is easily reached from Bukhara (175km) via the main highway

not hard to organise due to the region’s strong climbing tradition. Uzbekistan’s highest peak Khazret Sultan (4,643m) is widely considered unclimbable, but for less ambitious mountaineers and trekkers, the park has numerous alpine lakes or trails connecting Gissar’s ancient network of watch towers. Numerous Samarkand-based operators run 3-5 trips into Gissar, camping in high valleys, allowing access to waterfalls, remote meadows and native wildlife.

Uzbekistan

drive from Tashkent, often visited en route to other famous nearby attractions like Shahrisabz – birthplace of the Uzbekistan’s most revered ruler, Tamerlane.

connecting it with the famous Silk Road city of Khiva. Divided roughly 70/30 between desert and river islands, Qyzylqum’s scrublands are home to jackal, wild boar and wolves, as well as rare djieran (Asiatic gazelle) and the highly-endangered Bukhara deer – itself a local conservation success story, with its numbers rebounding ten-fold in recent years. Reaching temperatures of 50ºC in summer, Qyzylqum’s sparse settlements are clustered around ancient oases, with operators organising full-day trips during winter en route between Bukhara and Khiva.

At geographic crossroads between the Balkans and the Mediterranean lies Croatia – the melting pot of Central Europe. Set amidst the pastel backdrop of the Adriatic Sea, Croatia is a culmination of ancient cities and dramatic landscapes.

GETTING THERE There are no direct flights from Singapore to Zagreb, although a number of airlines make the connection via several European or Middle Eastern cities.

Croatia is perhaps most known for its historic city of Dubrovnik (listed as a World Heritage site), with its warren of cobblestoned streets lined with centuries-old buildings. Beyond historic cities, its natural attractions – from the sun-drenched Makarska Riviera to the cascading lakes of Plitvice – offers myriad opportunities for hiking and trekking.

EXPLORING CROATIA

TEXT BY Prabhu Silvam

MAKARSKA RIVIERA & BIOKOVO The Makarska Riviera – a port of call for beach and hiking enthusiasts – lies a mere 4-hour drive away from the capital of Zagreb. Snaking along the coastline, the soothingly sedate pace of the Makarska Riviera is overshadowed by the towering presence of Biokovo Mountain, which is situated close to the shores of the riviera.

For those who prefer the exhilaration of a hike, a trip up to Biokovo Mountain reveals a mishmash of scenic trekking paths that wind through a diverse ecosystem. The designated hiking areas of Biokovo Nature Park are open from the beginning of April till mid-November each year. For visitors unsure of terrain conditions, professionally guided hiking tours cater to

a variety of crowds, from novices to experienced trekkers. Trekkers embark from the centre of Makarska city and make their way up 3kms of varied terrain to get to Vosac Peak (1,422m). A picturesque 2-hour hike from there will eventually lead to the highest peak in the area, Sveti Jure (1,762m), boasting a vantage point of unmatched views of the Croatian coastline.

One of the world s most iconic natural sights, the Plitvice Lakes is a convergence of 16 lakes dramatically connected by a series of waterfalls set against a backdrop of magnificent verdant hills, covering an area of about 2 sq.kms., with the lowest lake feeding the Korana River. The lakes are situated on the eponymous Plitvice plateau, between the mountains of Lika Pljeaevica (Gornja Pljeaevica peak 1,640m), Mala Kapela (Seliaki Vrh peak at 1,280m) and Medveak (884m). The UNESCO World Heritage Site-listed Plitvice Lake National Park opens its doors all year round, with extended opening hours during the summer months from mid July till late August. The Plitvice Lakes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which are segregated into a collection of upper and lower lakes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lie in a basin of karstic rock, giving rise to their most distinctive feature. The 16 lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine (which grow at the rate of about 1cm annually), deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. There are 8 pathways and wooden walking trails intertwining within Plitvice Lake National Park, descending from 636m to 503m,

providing visitors with an intimate experience of the waterfalls and the wildlife amidst its thick woodlands. A walk from one end of the park to the other normally takes around 4 hours (longer during peak season due to crowds). The park is heavily forested, and sightings of deers, bears, wolves and rare bird species are not uncommon.

Croatia

PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK

attractions include the Veliki Splat waterfall surrounded by boulders, and a large waterfall complex that can be access via a cave in the surrounding rock face.

The colours of the lake change constantly from azure blue to green and grey, depending on the quantity of minerals or organisms in the water and the angle of sunlight. The lakes also take on a different personality depending on the season, and unlike most national parks which remain shut during winter, Plitvice Lake National Park enjoys a steady flow of visitors who enjoy the snowdrenched grandeur of the park. The lakes are a 2-hour drive from Zagreb, and buses ply the route.

Pursed amidst a thriving oil trade is the captivating wilderness of Brunei – a magnanimous spread of sloping valleys, uncharted caverns and a network of waterways. Home to a culture etched deep in history and folklore, Brunei stands at the brink of nature and modernity. A drive down Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) – the capital of Brunei – will see you whizz past buildings both old and new, grand and small. The city takes pride in its elaborately-scaled mosques – like the opulent Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque – that have garnered worldwide architectural fame. Despite its cosmopolitan vibe, BSB also boasts natural spots that are worth visiting. The tiny country’s green heart has cultivated a fastemerging trekking culture amongst its residents, and for those not so adventurous, its parks provide a welcome respite from the madding crowd. Just offshore, the country’s waters are home to some pristine dive sites, rounding out Brunei’s offering to an adventure traveller.

BRUNEI GREENS City Parks A stone’s throw away from the thriving city centre, residents have easy access to two of the city’s parks, including Jalan Tasek Lama and Bukit Santubong Recreational Park. The former has hectares of friendly greens that invite park goers to soak in the picnic atmosphere year round, while the latter offers clear vantage points of some of the city’s interesting sights along its well-maintained wooden walkway. One of the best views from here is of Kampong Ayer with its network of waterways and traditional houses that could be dubbed the ‘Venice on Stilts’.

TEXT BY Prabhu Silvam PHOTOS FROM Brunei Tourism

Into The Jungle Merely an hour away by water taxi is the pristine grounds of Ulu Temburong, a forest reserve world renowned for its untouched rainforest lowlands and diverse animal habitat. The jewel of this reserve is its Canopy Walkway – a 50m tall steel structure spanning midway through the reserve that provides visitors glimpses into the lesser known habitat atop the far reaching trees. Accessible via a network of boardwalks and steel stairs, the walkway allows visitors to be treated to the dashing colours of the Tiger Orchids and the bright green scales of the Wagler’s Pit Viper – both commonly found within the ecosystem of treetops. If you attempt the walkway just before sunrise, you

EXPLORING BRUNEI’S NATURE will be treated to a panorama of a sea of clouds tinged with an orange glow of the morning sun. An ode to mother nature, the Kuala Belalong Field Study Centre is Brunei’s strongest show of conservation. Set up to help safeguard and research some of Brunei’s native flora and fauna, the reserve also takes several measures to educate the public and foster greater environmental awareness. Do take note however, that because of the conservation-driven impetus of the centre, it only opens its doors on a case-by-case basis to the public so planning in advance is crucial.

Pockets of scuba-friendly sites form the bulk of Brunei’s coast, making it one of the prime diving locations in Southeast Asia. From Brunei, it’s easy to access some nearby WWII wrecks, but closer to its shores are some gems worth exploring as well. Brunei Patches A half an hour ferry ride from BSB will take you to Brunei Patches – a shark watching site famous for regular sightings of greytip and whitetip sharks. You can choose from various depths of viewing stations where you will be treated to an underwater display of prowess by these hunters of the sea. Another sight to behold are the roaming schools of Brown Parrot Fish that zig zag

the ocean floor with mechanical precision in the quest for food. Two Fathom Rock Thanks to Brunei’s strong oil mining industry, rig diving remains a popular diving form in Brunei because of the vastly diverse ecosystem that congregate around these manmade structures. Strategically built in a bid to foster marine life, Two Fathom Rock is an eco-friendly dive site that is a product of the deliberate planting of 50m long triangular oil rig panels into the sea floor. The result is an intertwining of coral and fish habitats that boast the likes of breathtaking soft corals, sponges and featherstars, with

inhabitants consisting of groupers, snapper, barracuda and sweetlip. A rare occurrence would be the sighting of whale sharks that cruise the deep waters in season. Two Fathom Rock is like a diving playground for seasoned divers as well as dive enthusiasts, thanks to its intricate ecosystem. Louisa Reef Affectionately referred to as “Brunei’s prime diving site”, Louisa Reef retains its fiercely guarded reputation as the mother of all dive sites in Brunei because of the remote vastness of the dive site.

Brunei

BRUNEI WATERS

Only accessible via a liveaboard vessel, Louisa Reef is the culmination of far dwelling underwater cliffs, long-neglected wrecks and a carousel display of deep water fish like the Leopard and Hammerhead sharks that dominate the reef’s floors. Because of its distance from Brunei (approximately 200km north of BSB), visitors are advised to plan diving trips with local diving companies in advance as tidal and weather changes often affect diving conditions with the cancellation of dive trips not being an uncommon occurrence amongst dive vendors. Heather Reef Novice divers will enjoy the relatively easy and manageable depth of Heather Reef – a mere 30m plunge that embodies a selection of deep water corals and sea pens. An hour’s trip by boat from Brunei takes you to the shallow depths of Heather Reef, which is also famous for migrating box jellyfish. Despite the simple lure of the dive site, visitors are highly recommended to seek the advice of trained dive instructors on the migration patterns of the jellyfish whose venom is extremely potent.

GETTING THERE There are direct flights from Singapore to Brunei via the country's national carrier, Royal Brunei (www.bruneiair.com). For more on Brunei, visit www.bruneitourism.travel.

GETTING THERE The most convenient international airport to access this region is Kolkata, from where you can catch onward flights to regional airports like Bagdogra (to get to Darjeeling and Sikkim) and Guwahati or Jorhat (to get to Kaziranga National Park). Many visitors combine a trip to Sikkim with Darjeeling, as there are convenient road connections between Gangtok (Sikkim) and Darjeeling.

India

Located in the mountainous northeastern region of India, the 3 states of West Bengal, Assam and Sikkim are known to travellers for very different reasons.

SIKKIM, ASSAM AND WEST BENGAL

SIKKIM Due north of Darjeeling is the tiny state of Sikkim, famous as the base camp for multi-day treks into the Himalayas. In addition to its rugged mountainous landscape and pristine environment, Sikkim is also home to some of the most revered Buddhist monasteries in India, including the sprawling Rumtek and Pemayangtse, both of which are perched on hills with the mighty Himalayas as the backdrop.

DELHI

ASSAM Situated in Assam is Kaziranga National Park, with its vast expanse of tall elephant grass, marshland and dense tropical broadleaf forests that are home to the rare Great One-horned Rhinoceros. Located on the edge of the Eastern Himalaya biodiversity hotspot, it is also home to significant numbers of elephants, gaur and sambar, in addition to Indian tigers, leopards, sloth bear and civets.

WEST BENGAL West Bengal's darling is the mountainous town of Darjeeling, a hill station developed in the mid 19th century as a sanatorium and military depot before it was converted into extensive tea plantations. Today, Darjeeling tea is international recognised as one of the most popular black teas in the world. Thanks to its old colonial influence, remnants of Victorian architecture can still be seen around town.

Lying in the rich flood plains of the Brahmaputra River, Assam’s Kaziranga National Park is an expansive patchwork of grassy meadows, rolling hills and verdant wetlands. And today, thanks to its forward-thinking approach to conservation, it’s not only famed as one of the last strongholds of the rare Indian Single-Horned Rhinoceros, but also home to an array of other at-risk animals from tigers, to the reclusive Swamp Deer and boisterous Adjutant Stork.

KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK TEXT BY Prabhu Silvam

KAZIRANGA’S WILDLIFE While the park is home to hundreds of types of mammals, reptiles and birds, its two most famous species are rhinoceros and tigers. Indian Single-Horned Rhinoceros Despite covering just 430sq.km., Kaziranga’s home to 300+ of the world’s 2,000 surviving Single-Horned Rhinos, and at that density is the single best place in the world to see them in the wild. As such, Kaziranga’s twicedaily safaris at dawn and late afternoon are extremely popular and should be booked well in advance. Visitors can opt for either jeeps or elephants; with jeeps allowing you to cover more terrain in pursuit of a sighting, while elephants allow for closer encounters. In both cases, the late dry season (AprilMay) is the best time to spot most species, especially Kaziranga’s big herbivores like rhino as they graze in groups of 3-4 animals in the depleted grass cover. Three-quarters of the park is inundated annually as part of its natural cycle of life, sustaining Kaziranga’s many bheels (small lakes) and 475+ species of birds, from migratory grey stork, to its resident hornbills and fishing eagles, as well as the endangered Ganges Dolphin.

Tiger GETTING THERE The park’s Kaziranga National Park is nestled amidst pristine wetlands 96km sprawling southeast of Jorhat Town, where Jorhat Airport has regular flights to swamps and Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati. Travellers are advised to fly direct from thickets of Kolkata to Johart Town (2 hours), then take a 4-hour bus ride that elephant grass meanders through hill valleys and bank settlements along the way. are also ideal hunting grounds for the endangered Bengal tiger. Famous for having at a pleasantly sedate pace. the highest tiger density anywhere in the While jeep and elephant safaris are popular, world, Kaziranga’s Tiger Reserve is gem of trek-based tours offer a different visitors a India’s nationwide Project Tiger programme. unique perspective – with the Tiger Trail and Kaziranga’s swampy, dense undergrowth is Rhino Safari being the main walking tours. home to more than 80 big cats, who prey The Rhino Safari is shorter and offers an upon the abundant populations of sambar, close glimpse of the Indian Single Horned swamp deer and hog deer. Rhino, while the Tiger Trail takes visitors If not a tiger, game drives almost guarantee down game trails, following the travel patterns of tigers with the aid of experienced guests a glimpse of Kaziranga’s other guides; due to the prevalence of predators, massive herbivores – the Indian elephant and gaur. Far more elusive are big nocturnal only guided walks are allowed. predators like the leopard and omnivorous sloth bear, which tend to stick to the remote, WHEN TO GO Kaziranga is only open to visitors from midforested interior. November to the early April annually, while the monsoon (June to September) sees the EXPLORING THE PARK The park’s panorama invites walkers, trekkers park flood as the Brahmaputra bursts its and aspiring naturalists to indulge in nature banks, inundating low-lying grasslands.

India

Big blue skies, flower meadows, steep green forest and soaring mountains. Darjeeling’s setting high above the hot plains of West Bengal, far below can seem almost magical for visitors arriving via its quaint, Victorian-era steam train. The greatest of the British Raj’s summer hill stations, its stunning natural beauty has meant it’s remained as popular today as a century ago.

17 GETTING THERE Bagdogra Airport, situated 16km from the West Bengal town of Silliguri, has weekly flights into Darjeeling (1 hour). Bagdogra Airport is a military air base doubling as a civilian airport so security checks and travel regulations are strictly enforced. Jeep taxis also ply the 3-hour route from Silliguri-Darjeeling (Rs1,500). Alternatively, you can opt for the slow way up via Darjeeling’s historic, UNESCO-listed “toy train”. Starting on the outskirts of New Jalpaiguri, it snakes its way 1,900m up the cliffs of Mahanadi over 86km (6 hours), passing dozens of tunnels and bridges with impressive Himalayan vistas. Currently undergoing route upgrades, there’s limited service, with full operations set to resume from 2013.

AROUND DARJEELING

TEXT BY Prabhu Silvam

TREKKING IN DARJEELING Thanks to its mountain setting and cool climate, Darjeeling boasts world-class trekking year-round; the only exception being during the monsoon season when trails can wash out and cloud cover can obscure otherwise impressive mountain views. With views across the Eastern Himalayas, Tiger Hill (2,590m) is Darjeeling’s single most popular and accessible trek. Despite the name, it’s actually a mountain peak overlooking Darjeeling, but given the small 400m vertical ascent up from town, locals consider the 1-hour climb a “hill” from where you can see distant summit of the

world’s third tallest peak – Kangchenjunga (8,586m) – in the neighbouring state of Sikkim. It’s also possible to see Mt. Everest on a clear day. Further afield is the popular Glenburn Trail. A full-day trek from town, it passes through the 150-year old Badamtan Tea Estate, one of Darjeeling’s biggest. The hike offers impressive views of numerous peaks en route, as well as sightings of local wildlife including deer, marmots and various raptors. There are also options to hike to nearby villages – like Rimbick and Sasamden – to experience village life, with views of Mt. Everest and Kangchenjunga en route.

CLIMATE Thanks to its altitude and weather, Darjeeling has long been a historic retreat from the heat of the lower plains. It regularly ranges from slightly misty to clear blue mountain skies, with weather changing fast, meaning you can experience several seasons in a day. This also supports a huge range of flora and fauna from alpine flowers to semi-tropical species of birds, to the rare red panda. Outside of monsoon (June-August), Darjeeling’s a year-round destination, but arguably at its best in spring (March-April) and autumn (October-November) when the weather is less extreme.

RANDOM OUTDOOR TIPS Tents: When stuffing tents into its stuff bag, the door of the tent should go in last so that the air that always collects inside will be easier to get rid of. A tent for a single person shouldn't weight more than 3 lbs (consider a hammock instead). Clothes: They should always be in waterproof bags – you never know what the weather will bring. While dark clothing dries faster, light clothing is less attractive to bugs. If hiking in thick country, go with light coloured clothing as it's easier to spot critters.

PACKING ON THE RO AD

rly once in a eller or someone who travels majo Whether you're a seasoned trav going: re you' re whe ter mat no tips ing blue moon, here are some pack Backpacks: it saves space. In backpacks, roll your clothes as r reduces Rolling clothes around tissue pape at the top, and wrinkles. Pack the heavier items pack because lighter ones at the bottom of the However, it's it lets your hips take the weight. the top (for also ideal if you have essentials at the bottom. easy access), and dirty laundry at Pack separately: bags – this Pack your items in separate clear ut ruining your helps you find things easily witho in plastic neat packing. If you pack your items , garbage bags, they can act as laundry bags take note that bags or makeshift umbrellas. Do altogether, certain states in India ban plastic bags ic pouches so pack them in clear, zipped plast specifically made for travelling.

IN COMFORT Here are some tips on living the life of luxury while camping in a National Park (you can still tell your friends that you were roughing it if you really want to).

SLEEPING PADS Almost any sleeping pad is going to help. They will not only provide cushioning from the rocks and uneven ground but will also provide insulation which will protect you from conductive heat loss. For my money I would suggest using self inflating pads over the foam pads in most circumstances. Therm-a-rest is the best known brand of sleeping pads for a good reason, they have making the best air mattresses for many years now. If you are looking for luxury and size and weight isn’t a concern, go for Therm-arest’s Luxury Map. It is big enough in every dimension and has plenty of foam.

Spread it around: idea to split If travelling with others, it's a good ges, especially your clothes between your lugga ensures that if you have a few stopovers. This in case your you have access to your essentials it through. checked-in luggage doesn't make te lost luggage Airlines generally don't compensa do, it’s usually for the first 48 hours, and if they only something like $50. Pack gifts: it's a good idea When travelling to small villages, enirs from your to take some small gifts (or souv countries, home country). It's a custom in some r to earn and it doesn't hurt to return the favou yourself brownie points.

Stay warm: To stay warm during the night, eat foods with lots of fat, like nuts. Try not to bury your head in the sleeping bag, as your breath will cause it to become wet and lose its insulating qualities. In winter, try rubbing your hands with Hand Sense to keep your hands dry and warm – it was developed by the military to block bad things from penetrating the skin.

GEAR GUY: Ken Berg

Countries don’t set aside their natural wonders just so you can live the life of luxury in a fancy resort or hotel (though that is kind of nice sometimes). No, the real way to get to know and appreciate a National Park is to camp in it. That doesn’t mean that you have to sacrifice all your creature comforts.

COFFEE Coffee so good, so addictive and even better in the outdoors when your senses are at their sharpest. GSI makes a number of well-priced and well thought out coffee related products so you can easily get your fix without too much fuss. They have percolators, drips, presses, a grinder and even an espresso maker. If espresso happens to be your drug of choice, Handpresso makes a deluxe portable espresso maker. It is about the size of a portable bike pump and delivers a high quality shot of the good stuff.

STAY CHARGED Smart phones, cameras and MP3 players are practically becoming essentials for travelling, but keeping them charged can be a challenge in the outdoors. Luckily there is a wide assortment of solar chargers to keep your gadgets

Ken grew up on the doorstep of the Canadian wilderness, backpacking, paddling and rock climbing in this rugged land. Armed with a degree in recreational studies, he has been working at Canada's premier outdoor retailer for the last 9 years, putting gear to the test whether it's cycling in -35ºC winters, running marathons or travelling to the far reaches of the planet.

going. I usually prefer chargers that allow you to charge replaceable batteries. This means that you can have several batteries charged and ready to go for a variety of uses including charging your other electronics. My two favourites are the Powerfilm USB & AA solar charger and the Power Traveler Power Monkey Solar Charger. The Powerfilm charger folds up very well and provides a large surface area for charging and can be hung on items like a backpack for all day charging. It even charges on cloudy days (although at a much slower rate). The Power Traveler has the advantage of being able to charge from an outlet in a variety of countries and has a very handy battery power indicator.

Italy is undeniably one of the world’s most popular destinations. However, beyond the millions of tourists who prefer Piazza Navona or climbing the Spanish Steps, there’s an entire world to the north in the Italian Alps that many people simply miss. Mixing the best of Italian culture and history, with some of Europe’s top mountains hiking trails, the ancient city of Bergamo and the surrounding Lombardy countryside boast a bit of everything, changing with the seasons from famous architecture to idyllic Lake Iseo in summer, to world-class skiing in winter.

BERGAMO AND BEYOND

TALE OF TWO CITIES Situated in Italy’s far north in the heart of central Lombardy at the foot of the Alps, Bergamo is both a gateway to the region’s extensive ski resorts as well as one of Italy’s most charming, historic little cities in its own right. While not historically unique compared to Rome or Florence, what makes Bergamo stand out is its position as a gateway to the Alps, making it an ideal base for winter skiing or summer climbing, hiking and mountain biking. While the city’s history is visible in the form of its extensive, Renaissance-era churches and palaces, Bergamo started life as a strategic crossroad and trade route linking the Roman empire with Raetia across the

Alps in modern Switzerland. Dating back nearly 2,000 years, Bergamo city today is divided into the modern Citta Bassa (“lower” city) and the older Citta Alta (“upper” city), connected via an series of ancient winding alleyways as well as the modern funicolare, an electric tram. Citta Alta Bergamo’s historic upper city dates back centuries. Ringed by a Venetian-era wall dating from the city’s conquest by Venice in the 15th century - Citta Alta is connected by a warren of narrow, medieval pedestrianonly streets linking numerous historic squares including the Piazza Vecchia and the Piazza del Duomo. Largely surrounded by the heavily-wooded Parco dei Colli di Bergamo, and with

commanding views of the rolling Lombardy countryside below, Citta Alta is widely considered one of Northern Italy’s most picturesque spots. Citta Basso Not surprisingly, while accommodation and food prices can be steep the higher you climb in Citta Alta, heading downhill to the newer “lower” city boasts numerous, wellpriced accommodation and al fresco café options conveniently clustered along Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII very near to the funicolare. While lacking the medieval feel of the upper town, notable highlights in Citta Basso include the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which despite its name actually dates from the early 20th century and is a convenient nexus for walking the newer part of Bergamo.

Lying at the foot of the Alps, Bergamo has several main ski areas literally on its doorstep, including the Brembo Super Ski Area – a grouping of over 70 pistes across several resorts, all combined under a single ski pass and lift ticket. Foppolo - Brembana Valley Like most resorts in the region, Foppolo caters to a wide range of skiers, with 15 beginner-intermediate slopes. It has the highest lift-access in Bergamo at 2,300m, and over 70km of slopes serviced by 8 modern lifts. Its high altitude (1,600m) generally ensures good snow from December to April, with ski-in, ski-out accommodations right off the piste. In summer, Foppolo’s Sentiero delle Orbie Occidentali or Western Orobie Track, connects its many high-altitude mountain refuges with the lower resort area. Several hundred kilometres of trails connect alpine meadows and seasonal cow pastures, with

steep slopes and the remote Lake Moro, where wildlife like chamois, marmots, mountain goats and Golden eagles can be seen along the way. Scalve Valley Hemmed in by high mountain ridges, the isolated Scalve Valley can feel miles away from the more bustling resorts of the Bergamo area. Part of the distinctive Dolomites – as opposed to the Orobie Alps – its remote slopes are home to several isolated villages and resorts, including Castione della Presolana, Colere and Schilpario. Colere One of Bergamo’s smallest winter resorts, Colere has 7 slopes serviced by 5 lifts, meaning there are rarely queues especially during busier weekends. Its highest lift (2,200m) gives you a big 1,200m vertical drop – a run that’s part of the international racing circuit.

Castione della Presolana and Schilpario With 41 routes serviced by 20 lifts, it’s one of the region’s biggest, with the focus on beginner-intermediate skiers catered to over a gentler 400m vertical drop. In contrast, just 50km northeast of Bergamo is the heavily forested resort town of Schilpario, which is popular for its off-piste and cross-country routes.

VALUE MOUNTAIN BREAKS

Italy

HEAD TO THE HILLS

The Italian Alps have the added advantage of being a very affordable alternative to their French or Swiss cousins when it comes to winter ski holidays. While costs vary, it’s possible to do all-in ski holidays from under ¤125/person/day including modest accommodation, selfcatering, ski passes and rentals.

GETTING THERE

IDYLLIC TRIPS Lake Iseo and Monte Isola Stretching between Bergamo and neighbouring Brescia is picturesque Lake Iseo. Ringed by mountains and dotted with historic waterfront villages, it’s also home to Monte Isola – the largest lake-island in Southern Europe. Dotted with olive groves and farms, the island is car-free, but visitors can easily rent mountain bikes at Peschiera Maraglio – ideal for the hilly 9km round-island route or the rugged climb up to the island’s peak at Santuario. Thanks to its low altitude, Iseo boasts an Italian Riviera feel with its palm trees and piazzas, while the Monte Isola’s quaint villages are decidedly rural.

At just 40km away, it’s possible to see Milan’s skyline on a clear day from atop the Citta Alta. Due to its proximity, Bergamo’s serviced both by Milan’s Malpensa Airport (via hourly buses), as well as local Orio al Serio Airport, giving a wide range of connections to hubs across Europe. For more on Bergamo visit www.turismo.bergamo.it.

The lake’s main activities include watersports, sightseeing and hiking in the surrounding hills, and there are regular year-round ferry services criss-crossing the lake, calling at Monte Isola. Lake Iseo is connected to nearby Bergamo by several daily train and bus services. Village Life in Lovere Situated at the northern end of Lake Iseo, the town of Lovere is officially ranked one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages. With its earliest settlements predating the Romans, it’s awash with historic sites, from the ancient fortress ruins of Castelliere to Renaissance-era churches including San Giorgio and the Santa Chiara Monastery.

Here, charming B&Bs serve the famous local polenta, cheeses and local wines. Going to the Source Situated 18km from Bergamo is the famous San Pellegrino Terme. The town was Northern Italy’s most famous spa for centuries, with luminaries like Da Vinci visiting since the 16th century. While the drinking water’s source lies deep underground, the town’s naturally carbonated thermal springs are found in local spas, pools and hotels, including many historic structures like Hotel Centrale and Castello della Botta (a family run B&B in a centuries-old castle).

ISLANDS Considered by many as the final frontier of untouched natural beauty, Seychelles is a secluded collection of islands situated northeast of Madagascar. Conveniently located right outside the cyclone belt, this tropical paradise can be enjoyed all year long because of its unwavering climate (temperatures rarely drop below 24ºC or rise above 31ºC). Often referred to as the Garden of Eden, Seychelles is a marvel of nature with a backdrop of mountains, sparkling lagoons, ribbons of pearl-white sands and forests that are home to endemic flora and fauna.

TEXT BY Samantha Pereira

Seychelles is an archipelago nation of 115 sparsely-populated islands, divided into the inner and outer island group. With the inner group being pegged for its massive granitic structures and the outer islands for its exclusivity and coral atolls, Seychelles’ inner islands – especially Mahe, Praslin and La Digue – are the most visited, as they are more accessible to the public. Frequented by the likes of Prince William, Kate Middleton, Paul Mcartney and Pierce Brosnan, Seychelles does have a reputation for A-list luxury. However despite being dominated by plush resorts and five-star accommodations, this upmarket destination is also reputed for its parks, some of which are World Heritage Sites.

PHOTOS FROM Seychelles Tourism Board

ISLANDS OF SEYCHELLES INNER ISLAND: MAHE Home to the nation’s capital (Victoria) and its international airport, Mahé is the only gateway to the rest of Seychelles. Known for being a treasure-trove of pristine soft sand beaches dotted with shady palms, Mahé is also exalted for its Morne Syechellois National Park. Positioned in the middle of the island, this national park teems with a variety of terrain – from coastal woodlands to sweet-smelling rosewood trees. Stretching over 30sq.km, it also includes Seychelles’s highest peak, the eponymous Morne Seychellois (905m), a summit that can be reached by trekking through the park’s 12 designated trails.

INNER ISLAND: PRASLIN Lying northeast of Mahé is the island of Praslin – Seychelles’ second largest island and a cornerstone of every top-ten best beach list, with Anse Lazio and Anse Georgette receiving special mentions as the best beach destinations in the world. More than just the cream of the beach crop, Praslin is also home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the Vallee de Mai, a nature reserve filled with towering majestic palms with gigantic leaves that can be explored via several walking trails. It may be one of the smallest natural World Heritage sites, but it is definitely no pushover

as it also houses 7,000 of the Seychelles’ de facto national symbol – the Coco-de-mer, the world’s largest and most valuable nut due to its scarcity. Fruits of the palm trees that are endemic to this island, the rare and protected nuts are confined solely to the Valle de Mai and Curieuse Island (an island 1km off the north coast of Praslin). This beautiful sanctuary is also the only habitat of the mysterious rare Black Parrot, colloquially known as the Praslin Parrot. This national symbol of Seychelles is easily identifiable (although not easily seen) in the dense forests as it has a distinctive whistling call.

Seychelles

INNER ISLAND: LA DIGUE Praslin’s neighbour and the third largest inhabited island in Seychelles is La Digue. It is dubbed as one of the most photographed islands of the Seychelles because of Anse Sourse D’Argent – a beach destination fringed by pink sand, topaz waters and picturesque granite rock formations. This dazzling beach exudes a laid-back atmosphere and it has also been the backdrop of numerous film sets, some notable ones being ‘Crusoe’ and ‘Castaway’.

La Digue is also renowned for being the sole breeding ground of the rare Black Paradise Flycatcher, found specifically in the Vevue Nature Reserve. It is easily recognisable thanks to its black coat and two long black central tail feathers. Even though it’s hard to spot this tiny bird in its own habitat, occasionally with a stroke of luck, you might be able to spot one where you least expect it.

GETTING THERE There are several convenient routes into Seychelles, including via Bangkok on Air Seychelles, or via Abu Dhabi on the Air Seychelles/Etihad codeshare. Direct Hong Kong-Victoria flights are scheduled to start in February 2013. For more on the Seychelles, visit www.seychelles.travel.

OUTER ISLAND: ALDABRA Isolated from the rest of Seychelles is the world’s second largest coral atoll called Aldabra; virtually untouched and uninhabited, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is about a 1,100km from Mahé.

Besides being a centerpiece of unspoilt nature, Aldabra offers a huge promise for diving enthusiasts, as it’s notoriously difficult to get there. The best option is to hop onto a liveaboard – a specialised yacht will charter tourists from Assumption Island to Aldabra.

As with most of the outer islands in the Seychelles, it is hugely rewarding but not easily accessible – only a dozen or so tourists are allowed on land with each boat trip – so this island actually sees more animal inhabitants than tourists.

Also home to the world’s biggest population of giant tortoises (numbering up to 100,000 individuals), Aldabra is a nesting site for another 400 species of birds and reptiles, making this secluded destination truly a refuge for many endangered species.

Taiwan's natural bounty is no stranger to those who've visited this relatively small island. Formed millions of years ago by the forces of nature, the island's volcanic landscape is characterised by its high mountain spine that slopes into fertile plains. Taiwan boasts 8 national parks dotted around the country, including Yangmingshan with its famous bubbling and steaming landscape, Yushan with its high mountain scenery, Shei-Pa with its aboriginal tribes, Taroko with its dramatic canyon, Kenting with its tropical forest and Tiajiang for its cultural attractions. Offshore is the unique coral landscape of Dongsha Marine National Park and Kinmen Island, famous for its war relics.

Mt. Dabajian, Shei-Pa National Park

TAIWAN

TAIWAN’S NATIONAL PARKS YANGMINGSHAN NATIONAL PARK Located within easy reach of the capital Taipei, Yangmingshan is the only national park in Taiwan that has an active volcanic landscape. Most of the park is draped in subtropical forest, while scrub-like trees and grassland can be found at elevations of over 1,000m. Getting around the park is easy, as it is well connected by a network of hiking trails and roads that double up as excellent cycling trails. For more on Yangminghshan, visit english.ymsnp.gov.tw. Mt. Cising (1,120m) The highest peak in the park, Mt. Cising is a popular hiking destination. The trail that leads to the peak consists of basalt pavers which can be steep in places, and the trail meanders through the mountainside that is dotted with fumaroles and steaming vents – a reminder that you are in a volcanicallyactive zone. From the peak, there are panoramic views of the surrounding peaks where you can spot steaming vents that waft from various points around the park. The best way to experience Yangmingshan is by tackling the hiking trail between

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Lengshuikeng and Xiaoyukeng, with Mt. Cising located about midway. Xiaoyukeng (800m) is probably the most iconic area of Yangmingshan, as it contains a host of volcanically-active fumaroles, a smattering of bright yellow sulphur crystals and bubbling hot springs. Located above the Tatung Bridge, it is an entry/exit point for treks up to Mt. Cising. Lengshuikeng (or Milk Lake) is a pool of milky white sulphur that is set amidst steaming fumaroles. You can also experience a hot spring bath (or a footbath) here, where the water temperature is at 40ºC. Jinbaoli Trail Built long ago as a shortcut for fishermen to deliver fish from the sea, the route starts at Jinshan before undulating through Yangmingshan and ending at Shilin, where the fish were sold. It was also the transport route for other commodities like tea and sulphur. You can hike along this 6.5km-long trail – sometimes known as the Fishermen's Trail or the Tea Trail – which is lined with plenty of historic relics like Tudigong shrines, stone houses, water canals and stone bridges along the way, giving you a glimpse into part of Taiwan's history.

4 7 NATIONAL PARKS 1 Yangmingshan 2 Shei-Pa 3 Taroko 4 Yushan 5 Taijiang 6 Kenting 7 Kinmen 8 Dongsha Atoll

8 Yangmingshan National Park

Straddling across both Hsinchu and Miaoli counties, this highland region is known for its aboriginal culture and encompasses 51 peaks over 3,000m high. Shei-Pa refers to 2 notable mountains in the park: Mt. Syue (3,886m), the second highest in the country, and Mt. Dabajian (3,492m), which is famous for its odd shape. Both peaks are popular with hikers. Due to the high altitude, hikers will need to apply for a Mountain and Park Entry Permit in advance before tackling either mountain (https://apply.spnp.gov.tw). For more on Shei-Pa, visit www.spnp.gov.tw. Daba Peaks Trail Mt. Dabajian is nicknamed the 'Matterhorn of Taiwan', thanks to its unique shape at the pinnacle. The mountain is set in deep valleys on all sides, and most climbers are able to get as far as the ridge before descending.

Dabajian, and the most popular route is via the Yizhe Mountain Trail, which includes traversing a ridge of 5 mountains over 3,000m in order to reach the base of Mt. Dabajian. The trailhead for the Yizhe Trail is at Madara Creek near the Guanwu Recreation Area. During the holiday season, beds at Jiujiu Hut (at 2,700m, with a capacity of 300 people) located near the trailhead, are constantly full, attesting to the popularity of the trail. Syue Mountain Trail The East Syue Trail is the most convenient way up to the peak of Mt. Syue, taking 3 days and 2 nights for a round trip. The mountain's pinnacle is often covered in snow, hence its name Syue, which means 'snow'. The trailhead starts from the Wuling Recreation Area, with 2 rest stops along the way at Cika Cabin (2,500m) and Sanlioujiou Cabin (3,100m).

Shengling Trail (Holy Ridge Trail) The most iconic trek in SheiPa is the Shengling Trail, which links Mt. Dabajian with Mt. Syue along a hiking trail that follows the ridgeline between the two mountains. The 15kmlong trail lies above 3,000m, and is known by hikers as one of the most beautiful trails in Taiwan.

Taiwan

SHEI-PA NATIONAL PARK

The Shengling Trail is normally tackled from north to south, starting from the trailhead at Madara Creek before hitting Mt. Dabjian and finally Mt. Syue along the Shengling ridge. As the trail has many jagged rocks and steep cliff escarpments, certain portions of this trail have fixed ropes to aid ascents/descents.

Yushan National Park

There are several trails that lead to Mt. Yushan National Park

YUSHAN NATIONAL PARK The centrepiece of Yushan National Park is its namesake mountain, and the park encompasses a variety of habitats ranging from broadleaf forests to waist-high arrow bamboo stands and bare rocky outcrops. The park is known for its alpine flowers (like azaleas which abound in spring) as well as its large variety of birds and mammals. The 11 peaks in this region are among the famous One Hundred Peaks of Taiwan. For more on Yushan, visit www.ysnp.gov.tw. Yushan Trail To get to the peak of Yushan, the trailhead is about 2km from the Tatajia Visitor Center. From Tatajia (2,600m), the 8.5km-long trail ascends to Paiyun Lodge (3,402m), which is located below the western slope of

Yushan's main peak. The clearly-marked trail is relatively easy to tackle, with few steep or technical sections (with the final 200m being the steepest). While the summit is relatively small, it offers a panorama of the surrounding peaks and deep valleys that are often filled with a sea of clouds. Batongguan Japanese Era Cross-Hill Trail Built during the Japanese colonial period in 1921, this footpath stretches 96km from Dongpu (Nantou County) to the Shanfeng Trail Entrance (Hualien County), cutting across the Central Mountain Range. The trail is littered with relics of the colonial period, including disused police stations, stone steles and wooden suspension bridges. Taking about 7 days to complete, the trail is

segregated into the Eastern Section and Western Section, both of which meet at Dashuiku (3,280m), the highest point of the trail. Hikers may be treated to sights of mountain deers along the hike. The Western Section starts at Dongpu (1,100m), heading south past waterfalls, metal bridges that span ravines, and steep, narrow slopes. The trail takes in the Batongguan Meadows, with its expanse of rolling hills hemmed by mountains, before eventually reaching the halfway point of Dashiuku Mountain Cabin. From here, the Eastern Section continues along a number of disused colonial-era police stations and picturesque old suspension bridges before ending at Shanfeng Trail Entrance.

KENTING NATIONAL PARK Taiwan's only tropical national park, Kenting is the country's most densely populated, and includes large swathes of agricultural land where visitors can get a glimpse of rural and pastoral life. Located at the southernmost tip of the island, the park also encompasses coral sea cliffs with fringing reefs along the west coast, mountains in the north, and foothills in the south. To the east are limestone caves and

coral tablelands that feature unique sand rivers and sand waterfalls, as well as sunken caves and stalactites. For more on Kenting, visit www.ktnp.gov.tw. Beaches The sandy beaches of the park are popular for holidaymakers, where swimming and surfing (it is one of the best surf beaches in the region) are possible. Thanks to the surrounding reef, scuba diving is another popular activity.

Hiking One of the major forest parks within Kenting, Sheding Nature Park is rich in limestone valleys, grassland and distinctive windtrimmed trees. It takes about 90 minutes to walk around the park's attractions, which include limestone caves, stalactites, stalagmites and stone pillars. Another popular trail is the pleasant coastal walk to Erluanbi Lighthouse, which is one of a few fortified lighthouses in the world.

Kenting National Park Kenting National Park

Taroko National Park

TAROKO NATIONAL PARK Located on the northeastern section of Taiwan, Taroko is known for its spectacular mountain scenery and dramatic canyons. The Li Wu River slices a path through the marble rocks that were formed over millions of years of wind erosion, creating the canyons that have made this area famous. The canyons drop spectacularly from heights of over 3,000m, giving birth to numerous waterfalls within the park. Taroko is easily accessible via the Cross Central Highway, which was hand-hewn at the cost of many lives. Today, many visitors come in bus loads, stopping by the 2 famous spots: the Swallow's Grotto and the Tunnel of Nine Turns, which are the most dramatic and iconic sections of the canyon. To get away from the crowds, you can tackle the network of hiking trails or explore the area on a river tracing tour, where you get to rappel down waterfalls and wade in rivers. For more on Taroko, see www.taroko.gov.tw. Shakadang Trail Built along a river cliff, the 4.4km Shakadang Trail takes you down to the river's edge as

it winds through marble canyons and boulder-strewn flats and you can enjoy a dip in the blueish-green pools along the way. In May, the blossoming Tung flowers blanket the trail with Taroko National Park fragrant white petals. Baiyang Trail The trail to the Baiyang Waterfall entails a steep climb from Tianxiang (along the highway) before reaching a flat section with remnants of a village of the Truku people. There are picturesque views of the valley along the way, and the trail goes through 6 dramatic hand-carved tunnels of different lengths (some of which are inhabited by bats) along the way. The third tunnel has excellent views of Tacijili River, while the final tunnel offers hikers views of the Baiyang Waterfall.

A small island situated off the coast of mainland China, Kinmen is the only national park in Taiwan focusing on its cultural assets. It was once the site of fierce fighting between Communist and Nationalist forces in the 1940s. Following its demilitarisation in 1993 as a military garrison, the park has preserved numerous battlefield relics in addition to a smattering of traditional southern Fujian buildings. For more on Kinmen, visit www.kmnp.gov.tw. Military History The island's battlefield relics extend from the mountains to the sea, including observation stations, fortresses and pillboxes, as well as coastal tunnels that were built for small boats.

Kinmen National Park

TAIJIANG NATIONAL PARK Taijiang encompasses the coastal waters and wetland areas off Tainan. Divided into 5 areas, the park is known for its habitat of mangrove forests, wetlands and wildlife refuges, in addition to its cultural history which includes old salt fields and ancient battlefields. For more on Taijiang, visit www.tjnp.gov.tw.

Military tunnels that riddle the granite hills are evidence of the island's battlefield history. These include the Zhaishan Tunnel, which stretches over 100m and once housed 7 barracks; its A-shaped waterways were once

remain along the harbour as a reminder of their short-lived European colonial rule, including one at Luermen Harbor and the Sicao Fort. The region has produced salt for over 300 years; to explore its history, visit Anshun's salt fields, where a narrow canal was built by the Japanese in 1919 to transport salt to the wharf.

Wetland reserve The park's tidal areas serve as temporary homes to tens of thousands of migratory birds that drop by every autumn and winter. At the Black-faced Spoonbill Reserve, visitors can see a large number of them between September and March.

Cruising The easiest way to appreciate the park is on a cruise. Of the 2 options available, the Green Tunnel Route follows the route of the first artificial canal in Taiwan, stretching from the Sicao Dajhongye Temple to the mangrove reserve.

Forested parts of the park can also be explored on wooden bike paths, or from observation towers for panoramic views.

The cruise is on shallow bamboo rafts (with leaf hats provided as the only form of shade), and the 30-minute journey along the canal has been coined the 'pocket edition of the Amazon River'.

Cultural heritage The area was a landing point for many Han immigrants from China during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Remnants of Western-style sea forts still

Passing rich mangrove forests, branches and leaves of shady trees along the way weave overhead to form a picturesque 'green tunnel'. Taijiang National Park

used to conceal small naval vessels. A walk or cycle around the island will reveal bullet-ridden marks on fences, old Western-style houses and temples left by numerous battles.

Taiwan

KINMEN NATIONAL PARK

Cultural History Thanks to its military history, the island's valuable cultural heritage have been kept intact. Prime examples of these are the traditional Fujian-style houses that are preserved within 12 villages dotted around the island. These 3-sided red-bricked fofong houses have distinctively curved roofs and are centred on an open courtyard.

Around the island, you can see a smattering of fongshihye (small lion-like statues made of clay or stone), which were believed to protect the villagers from Kinmen's windy climate. Most national parks are accessible from a major city like Taipei, Tainan, Hualien, and Kenting, with the exception of Kinmen Island (accessible via ferry or air) and Dongsha Atoll (accessible by air). For more on Taiwan, visit www.taiwan.net.tw Dongsha Atoll Marine Park

DONGSHA ATOLL MARINE PARK The newest national park established in 2007, Dongsha Atoll is located about 400km south of Taiwan's main island. The park includes Dongsha Island and its surrounding atoll, which is shaped like a horseshoe. The atoll’s circular reef – which is home to over 250 species of coral – emerges at low tide. Other underwater treasure here include shipwrecks; plenty of vessels have run aground in this area along the South China Sea’s Silk Road since ancient times. As Dongsha Island is surrounded by shallow reefs, no ocean vessels can get near, so the transport to the island is by air. While the park is not currently open to the public, check their website (dongsha.cpami.gov.tw) for updates.

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Located in the northeastern region of South Korea, the province of Gangwon is dominated by the majestic Taebaek Mountains which drop dramatically into the coast. Home to many of Korea's natural gems, the province is dotted with meandering rivers, rocky headlands, dramatic gorges, flower meadows and verdant mountains cloaked in mist. It is also home to some of Korea's most beautiful national parks, including Seoraksan with its jagged peaks and giant geological sculptures, Odaesan with its classic Korean scenery and Chiaksan with its temples that are scattered

IMAGES FROM Gangwon Tourism

around some of the country's most accessible peaks. Located within these national parks are some of Korea's oldest and most revered Zen temples, most of which are entry points into hiking trails that drape the mountains. Trails and campgrounds in Korea are generally well maintained, and adequate signage are posted along hiking trails.

PARKS OF GANGWON PROVINCE

SEORAKSAN NATIONAL PARK The centrepiece of Gangwon is Seoraksan National Park, whose jagged peaks, gorges and valleys are lined with hiking trails that offer plenty of hiking opportunities no matter what the season. The park features 30 imposing peaks, including the main peak of Daecheongbong (1,708m), which are home to over 2,000 species of wildlife including the Korean goral and musk deer. In addition, the mountains are dotted with ancient Buddhist temples. There are 4 entrances into the park, each giving you access to different regions with

their attractions along its network of hiking trails. Day- and multi-day hikes are possible throughout the park. The most famous area is the one surrounding Sinheungsa Temple (built in 652), which has trails to some of its landmarks like the Yang Falls (6.5km), Biseondae Cliff (3.6km) and Ulsan Bawi Rock (3.8km). The Biseondae Cliff course is one of the most scenic hiking courses, featuring breathtaking views of the jagged peaks of the Daecheongbong summit. The Ulsan Bawi Rock (a set of 6 steep rocky peaks) course involves climbing steep metal stairs and walkways to get to the famous rock from where you can get spectacular

views. The Yangpok course takes you to one of the park's most beautiful waterfalls through a valley that is known for its autumn foliage and fantastically-shaped rocks. For those who want to conquer the park's highest peak (Daecheongbong), the most popular trail starts from Sogongwon and passes Biseondae and Hoeungak Pavilions. From the peak, the trail continues to the Seorak Falls and the Osaek Mineral Spring (with its hot spring). The trail spans 16km (it takes about 11 hours to complete), and hikers can spend the night at the Yangpok Shelter.

Unlike Seoraksan's jagged peaks, the mountains around Odaesan are considered smoother and easier to climb. Five plateaus line up within the park like a folding screen, with Birobong (1,563m) being the highest. The park features plenty of waterfalls and forests that are home to populations of roe deer and wild boars.

Odaesan is home to the renowned Woljeongsa Temple (which is over a thousand years old), with its famous octagon-shaped 9-storey pagoda and a Stone Seated Buddha figure, as well as the Sangwonsa Temple. The park is revered by hikers for its classic Korean scenery, and come winter when it is blanketed with snow, it has a remote, cold beauty that is worth exploring. Most hiking routes in Odaesan are day hikes, and there are 5 main trekking courses. The most popular are to the peak of Birobong (west of the park) and the valley of Sogeumgang (east of the park). From Sangwonsa Temple, you can hike up to Birobong,

passing several temples along the way for a cultural excursion. From the top, you can continue along the ridge to Sangwangbong (1,493m) and Dongdaesan (1,433m) before descending to the main road to complete the circuit. The entire loop is about 17.3kms, taking about 7 hours to complete.

Korea

ODAESAN NATIONAL PARK

For nature lovers, the rugged 13.3km Sogeumgang course explores the exquisite Mureunggye and Sogeumgang valleys where you can appreciate the scenery of rugged cliffs, waterfalls and cascading pools amidst a colourful autumn forest. Unlike the circular loop of the Birobong ridges, the Sogeumgang course is a straight hike, climbing over Noinbong (1,338m) about midway through.

For more information on national parks in Gangwon and the rest of Korea, visit english.knps.or.kr and www.asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr. For more on Gangwon, visit en.gangwon.to.

CHIAKSAN NATIONAL PARK Attracting countless tourists in autumn, Chiaksan National Park is lined with tall peaks like the 1,288m-high Birobong (not to be confused with the one in Odaesan), Namdaebong and Hyangnobong. Numerous hiking trails line the park, ranging from 2.8km to 23.8km, some of which are lined with historic Buddhist temples like Guryongsa (Nine Dragon) that date back to the Silla Dynasty (57BC - 935AD). The park is known for its steep valleys and slopes, dense forests, rock-strewn rivers and mist-cloaked mountains. Thanks to its easy accessibility to Seoul, it is a popular weekend hiking destination. The most popular hike starts from Guryongsa Temple and goes up to Birobong (3 hours), passing a campground on the way. The 2.7km trail leading to the peak is

one of the most difficult in the park. From here, there is the option of continuing along the ridgeline of Chiaksan all the way south to Namdaebong (1,180m). Along the way, you can descend the mountain along a variety of trails that let you experience the park's variety of landscapes, including the pine grove around Gukhyeongsa Temple and the Eoksaebet (pampas grass field).

New Zealand’s majestic scenery is no secret – it is the backdrop of all three Lord of the Rings movies. For a country to represent such great fiction so fittingly, it shows one thing: New Zealand’s terrain is the closest thing to fantasy fiction. New Zealand is synonymous with untouched rural beauty, and its 14 National Parks are the real gems, featuring luscious green landscape, sparkling lakes and snow-capped peaks that cloak the country.

species, like the Black Robin or the endangered Hector’s Dolphin. But if you think the country s natural attractions are all land-based, head away from the mountains and rolling hills and you will see New Zealand’s rugged side in the form of its seascapes. Surrounded by water and an extensive coastline, this country harbours two large and important bodies of water – East of the Pacific Ocean and West of Tasman Sea.

But besides the rich flora, this idyllic country has a catalogue of native fauna too. From birds to marine mammals, New Zealand is home to many unique

WHALE WATCHING KAIKOURA KAIKOURA This affinity with water puts New Zealand on the map as a country with a flourishing marine life, and to get up close to these majestic creatures, it is best to head down to Kaikoura. Whale Watch is located in the town of Kaikoura, a scenic 2.5 hours drive north of Christchurch in New Zealand's South Island. Towering snow-covered peaks fall to the ocean here, while just offshore a deep undersea canyon attracts an extraordinary abundance of marine life, the most famous being the Sperm Whale. Here, you can swim with the affable dolphins and seals, or get up-close with elusive albatrosses – Kaikoura provides the opportunity for you to get acquainted with its wildlife. Lying along a narrow coastal plain between high mountains and the Pacific Ocean,

TEXT BY Samantha Pereira PHOTOS FROM Whale Watch Kaikoura Kaikoura is also in close proximity to one of the world’s greatest undersea marvels – the Kaikoura Canyon – and its real allure comes from the deep trench that is a meeting point of two starkingly different sea currents (namely the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea), with various towering peaks and tectonic plates thrown into the mix. This undersea paradise is a fertile breeding ground for all kinds of marine life – the most visible of which are some of the largest mammals on earth: whales.

WHALE GAZING Known for being a whale-watching mecca, Kaikoura is the transient city for more than half of the world s migratory whales, especially from June to November when the whales decide to head for warmer waters. Whale Watch tours operate all year round. You will get the chance to view some of New Zealand’s resident giants, like the Sperm

Whale, gliding through the sea effortlessly or even frolicking with a pod of about 300 dusky dolphins. Whale watching is the best approach to fathoming the enigmatic awe of marine life. Every tour is different and you will never know what you might end up seeing on any specific day – it could be the magnificent view of a Giant Sperm Whale as it dives down into the dark depths of the undersea canyon, and the great tail flukes lift and then disappear, leaving nothing but an agitated patch of the sea and the faint and fishy smell of whale breath. Its unpredictability is what makes this trip worth not just a second, but third visit as well. The whales do play a protagonist role in this tour, but you will also get to see other animals complete this ‘neptunian troupe’, including albatrosses, dolphins and fur seals.

Whale Watch Kaikoura is a platform that will get you to experience close encounters with these regal beings. Their tour check-ins happen all year round at specific times. Through their tours, you will get to witness the world’s largest toothed predator – the Giant Sperm Whale – glissading through the silent waters. According to Whale Watch Kaikoura, if you do not catch sight of this supreme whale, you will receive an 80% refund. Also, depending on the season you

choose to visit Kaikoura, you may get to see other mammals like Humpback Whales, Blue Whales and Pilot Whales as they migrate across open seas.

New Zealand

WHALE-WATCHING TOUR

Specifically designed for whale-watching, this leading tour agency uses custom catamarans to cut through the rough seas without any noise or pollution, giving you the opportunity to revel in nature – the green way.

To learn more about the offerings of Whale Watch Kaikoura, visit their website at www.whalewatch.co.nz.

GETTING THERE Kaikoura is located on the northeastern part of South Island, and is accessible by bus or train from Christchurch (the most convenient international airport). From Christchurch, you can opt for the Coastal Pacific train, which runs from Christchurch to Picton via Kaikoura. The trip is considered one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, passing 22 tunnels and 175 bridges en route. For more on Kaikoura, visit www.kaikoura.co.nz.

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