N 3 J U N E 2 015
T H E TA I P E I I S S U E 48 INSIDER SPOTS FEATURING
RYAN YEH RICHIE LIN JON LIN MUSEE WU LESLIE SUN ANGELA CHEN
A S P O T T LY W O R D Spottly is a social travel app – a community passionate about finding, collecting and sharing the best places in the world. Spottly helps you remember both old favorites and fresh discoveries in one place. This month marks our one-year anniversary since the official launch in Hong Kong, with a new office in Singapore and a Spottly for Apple Watch app to look forward to. Our vibrant network of local insiders and global nomads in Asia continue to grow as we take on a new year, in a new city. For the third issue of the Spottly Insider Magazine, we visited Taipei, drawn by rumors of a creative renaissance and a rapidly changing cultural landscape. Taiwan is a small nation with a laid-back attitude more akin to the spirit of island life than the futuristic magnificence of an East Asian metropolis. To write about Taipei and its modern culture is to constantly be aware of its place - or lack of - on the international stage. As one of our interviewees notes: "It's a tiny island". In cultural features canvassing the city over the years, terms such as "backwater" have inevitably surfaced. In the midst of this crisis of identity, Taipei's future may lay in the hands of a new generation of entrepreneurs, creatives, and producers engaged in a new sort of import-export than that of electronic equipment; ones that see the potential of importing cultural capital both in from abroad, and placing Taiwanese talent on an international stage. The city is seeing an influx of self-starters determined to bring fresh concepts into the city's creative fabric. A major contribution to the city's energy comes in the form of a returning set of second-generation Taiwanese, colloquially referred to as "ABCs (American Born Chinese) , who are opening ventures that challenge the current limits of the local market. From innovative restaurants, to novel nightclub concepts, select shops and creative agencies, the mass-market "Made in Taiwan"past never seemed so far away. We identified six insiders whose vision and lives are inextricably tied to the city as it works to find a unique identity in the global conversation. We ta lked Taiwanese street culture with Imperial Tael’s Ryan Yeh, fine dining and food science with NOMA-trained chef Richie Liu, discussed emerging Taiwanese talent with A&M Creative’s Musee Wu, comics and creative confidence with Vogue Art columnist Angela Chen, sampled slow-life with Sunset Shop’s Leslie Sun and experienced Taipei's after-hour offerings with Jon Lin of Chess Club. Six local insiders with six radically different perspectives, alongside our own curated mini neighbourhood guides. We hope to give you a taste of what Spottly has to offer by showcasing hidden gems from tastemakers whom we trust to curate the best of this vibrant, complex city. So much more than boba milk teas and night markets, Taipei offers all who come its way a renewed appreciation of 小確幸 translated as the "small joys" in life: eat, drink and be merry, the Taiwanese way. If you like what you see here – and we have no doubt you will - download Spottly to start finding and collecting your favourite finds. Becoming a tastemaker isn’t about having thousands of followers or having encyclopaedic knowledge of every city’s newest spots. We at Spottly understand that when it comes to travel style, each person differs – and as with the act of travel itself, the key is to simply leave the house and discover. We hope you’ll join our #SpottlyInsider community, and showcase your own personal curation of the best places to eat, shop, stay and play.
S P OT T LY F O U N D I N G T E A M FOREWORD BY CO - F O U N D E R A N D C H I E F M A R K E T E R O F S P OT T LY
CHARLOTTE CHEN
N 3 CO N T E N T S
T H E TA I P E I I S S U E
FEATURING
06 — 09
R YA N Y E H FOUNDER OF STREETWEAR AND ACCESSORIES BRAND IMPERIAL TAELS
10 — 13
RICHIE LIN
Front Cover Ryan Yeh photographed by Sean Marc Lee
FOUNDER & HEAD CHEF OF
CASUAL FINE DINING RESTAURANT MUME
14 — 17
MUSEE WU
PRINTED IN MAY 2015
Printed on WOODFREE Paper
F O U N D E R O F C R E AT I V E CO N S U LT I N G CO M PA N Y A&M CREATIVE
20 — 23
S P OT T LY A P P T E A M
Spottly Founder and Chief Spotter EDWYN CHAN edwyn.chan@spottly.com Co-Founder and Chief Marketer CHARLOTTE CHEN Lead Engineer DUAN SHENGPENG Lead UX Designer ELIAS ANDREWS iPhone Engineer HUANG ZHIGANG
LESLIE SUN FOUNDER OF SELECT SHOP SUNSET SHOP
24 — 27
ANGELA CHEN ARTIST AND VOGUE TAIWAN ART COLUMNIST
28-31
JON LIN FOUNDER OF OTS CHESS TAIPEI
SPOTTLY INSIDER MAGAZINE – NO.3: THE TAIPEI ISSUE Printed in May 2015 To see more Spottly Insider interviews and behind the scenes shots, visit: www.spottlyinsider.com | brought to you by: Spottly – A Social Travel App www.spottly.com Download on the App Store now
S P OT T LY I N S I D E R T E A M
Editor in Chief of Spottly Insider Magazine CHARLOTTE CHEN charlotte.chen@spottly.com Editor STEPHANIE HSU Editorial Intern AMANDA WONG Portrait Photographer SEAN MARC LEE Design MOM AND POP LIMITED Special thanks to JKWAN
JIAO TONG PHOTO DIARY
交通
TRANSPORT BY PHOTOGRAPHER SEAN MARC LEE
You're an ABC too, huh. Actually, I'm not Taiwanese! My mom is from Hong Kong, so we speak Cantonese at home. I first came to Taiwan in 2009 to help a friend shoot his thesis film. Long story short, in those two weeks I met someone I stayed in touch with, and in 2011 took a leap of faith and moved here. So here I am! What's the most common way you get around Taipei? I would say by bicycle, followed by scooter and the MRT - our subway system. And of course, taxis when necessary. And by necessary, you mean "intoxicated". So what's your favorite way of getting around the city? Hah! Well, I actually like walking the most. It's the best way to explore Taipei. Wandering around on foot has made for some great photos as well as random discoveries.
What is your opinion on the current transportation infrastructure in the city? People always tout that the Taipei MRT is amazing, but in regards to other systems in Asia, we are still pretty behind in terms of infrastructure. The bus system is quite easy to learn and cabs are extremely affordable - so in those regards Taipei wins. They're building a direct MRT line from the city to Taoyuan Airport, and they're planning even more MRT lines, so everything is improving, and it's very exciting. What's the weirdest thing you've ever seen on Taipei public transport? A woman reading a book with a magnifying glass. I guess that's not actually that weird - either I don't ever really see anything weird Taiwanese people are extremely polite, even on public transport or I have seen weird shit and I've just gotten used to it. Some of your photos are taken from a scooter. How the hell do you do that? Don't tell me you're driving with no hands! I wish! Well, since my girlfriend mostly drives the scooter, I'm usually in the backseat since I don't really have a license. That being said, I've come across some interesting tableaus while sitting there in the back. It's pretty much just good fortune and being in the right place at the right time.
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THE FOUNDER OF IMPERIAL TAELS 金銀帝國 ON DUNHUA SOUTH STREET (Lane 187 Sec. 1) TALKS TAIWANESE STREET CULTURE, SURFING IN THE COUNTRYSIDE, AND THE INTERSECTION OF FASHION AND TRADITION.
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What's your connection to Taipei? I split my childhood between the US and Taiwan - a very classic "ABC" story. I went to elementary school in California, middle school in Taipei, and then went back to California for high school. But my heart was always in Taipei, because my parents were living out here. I always missed them. As soon as I had any time off I would fly back. With that, tell us the story behind Imperial Taels. I founded Imperial Taels with friends Sunny [Wang] and Chuck. We all grew up in the States;were teenagers in the nineties. This was when the counterculture started booming in America, and street culture as we know it today was heavily influenced by that era. A movement was emerging and as immigrant kids, we really dove into that. We not only worked to adapt to the culture around us, but had to reconcile it to our own heritage and values, which created this unique identity. Our experiences growing up between Taiwan and the United States countries with two radically different cultures was a major inspiration in creating Imperial Taels. We looked at the market and realised that this dual identity wasn’t being represented properly. There was a whole array of brands, but there wasn’t a streetwear brand truly trying to push Chinese culture and tradition. Chinese tradition and streetwear isn't the most natural of pairings. They're often seen as polar opposites: tradition and fashion. Fashion is considered forward looking; tradition is backwards looking. How do you mesh the two, and create something new? We had all moved back to Taiwan at this point, and we started to work on answering that question. Were there other Taiwanese brands making forays into streetwear when you started thinking of starting Imperial Taels? Oh, absolutely. There was already a pretty vibrant scene before us, with brands like REMIX, Dissent and MJ Fresh. MJ Fresh was started by a local rap group, MJ 116; I like to call them the SUPREME of Taiwan - everything they release sells out almost immediately. We consider ourselves so blessed because through these brands, the concept of streetwear wasn't considered totally foreign. The market was already established. The hub of streetwear retail is traditionally the west side of Taipei, specifically Ximending (西門町). Why open your store in the East District? I would say that the east and west sides of Taipei are divided primarily by age. The East Area draws young professionals in their 20s and 30s. When you go to the West, the crowd is much younger. And with that difference in age is a difference in spending power, which is reflected in price points. Yes, the common line of thinking is that it makes most sense to open up a streetwear brand on the west side. However, we have a strong focus on accessories, and many of our items are sterling silver or gold-plated. It's a bit more expensive, which is why we made the decision to open our store in the East District. But all our skaters and dancers - we sponsor an entire skate team - are always hanging out in Ximending.
@ I T R Y Y Y Instagram
R YA N YEH
@ R YA N Y E H Spottly
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FOUNDER OF IMPERIAL TAELS
09 Not only dancers and skaters, but artists too. Imperial Taels recently comissioned a Taiwanese street artist to create a large mural near Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT. We currently sponsor quite a few Taiwanese street artists. The mural was done by Hua Tu Nan. He's a genius - combines Chinese ink painting with Jackson Pollock-esque splashes to make these truly innovative murals. One of our employees showed me his work on Tumblr, and I reached out to him that same night. Many older stop to ask about the mural, because they can see that it's a influenced by 山水 "shan shui", a traditional style of landscape. I think it altered the perception of what street art is, and what it can be. Projects like that help to change the "graffiti is vandalism" attitude that’s ingrained in society here. I can imagine that running your own brand is stressful, so there always has to be a way of escaping it all - yours is to get the hell out of Taipei and surf. How did you start surfing in Taiwan? I first tried surfing in California, but picked it up late - in my early 20s. I didn't really get into it until I moved back here.The conditions aren't as welcoming in the US. The temperature outside can be 80s, 90s [Fahrenheit] - but the water is still 50s. For a newcomer, a kook, just getting into that water is hard. But the water is warm in Taiwan, all year round. How often do you go surfing? Is this a weekend sojourn, or are we talking daily pilgrimage to feed an addiction? I’ll go several times during the week. I leave at dawn, get back in time to start my day at work. People who come to Taipei often just stay in the city, and completely miss out on experiencing how amazing the nature in Taiwan is. I think they don’t realise how accessible it is - ten minutes out by car, and you're out in nature. When you head to the countryside, you encounter the really local Taiwanese people. They're always friendly, hospitable, never fail to have a smile on their face. Before I had kids, I would take these long surf trips all over the country. Just being here in Taiwan inspires me. And Imperial Taels is working to inspire Taiwan in return. That's the idea. Young people need to know that what they're pouring time and energy and passion into isn't just frivolous; that it’s more than just some stupid hobby. Taiwan is such a small market, and as a streetwear brand based in Taiwan, we feel the duty to be an ambassador to the rest of the world. We feel a responsibility to incubate and push Taiwanese street culture.
08 SAMWON GARDEN
1F, No. 45, Lane 188, Ruiguang Road, Neihu District Going from a mono-cultural environment in the Taiwanese educational system to the public schools of California was a bit jarring. There were lots of Koreans in my high school - their food is good, though. Some of the best Korean food in Taiwan is located out in Neihu. Photo Courtesy: Taiwan Traveller
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XIMENDING 西門町 STREET-WEAR SCENE - MJ FRESH, REMIX, DSSENT No.88, Hanhou Road Section2, No. 19, Lane 96, Kunming St, Wanhua District
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Taiwanese street-wear brands have to support each other, and as I said, these guys have been around since the beginning. You can find them all in Ximending. Photo Courtesy: REMIX
R YA N ' S FA V O R I T E SPOTS
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林東芳牛肉面 No. 274, Section 2, Bādé Road, Zhongshan District
LIN DONG FANG
It's a classic spot for beef noodles, open 24-7. Everyone has their own preferences in terms of what kind of broth they prefer. The dark soup is pretty good. My dad likes curry beef noodles - the original dark broth with curry added into the mix. Photo Courtesy: Yo Ninja
CAMPUS CAFE
No. 99, Lane 11, Guangfu North Road Our mural is right across the street, and they have a mean hot dog, man. Photo Courtesy: Campus Cafe
THE TASTING ROOM
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2F, #297, Zhongxiao E. Road, Sec.5 They're playing real good stuff, stuff that's right down my alley, since I'm a huge hip-hop fan. I appreciate the fact that Chess is a community, is an asset in presenting a vision of how nightlife should be and can be in Taipei. Photo Courtesy: Black Buddha
SURFING IN YILAN
Toucheng Town, Yilan County There's nothing better than wasting your day at the beach; get a bonfire going at sunset, drink beers. You have to go out and experience it for yourself. In the summer, I'll bring my girls out; I'll surf, we'll break out the grill and have a beach BBQ. There's no particular beach name; you just have to go to the coast and see where the waves are better. Photo Courtesy: Cush Travel
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JIANGUO BRIDGE
Jianguo Bridge, Yingge District Skating is coming into its own in Taiwan. One of the most frequented spots is under this bridge right next to Huashan Cultural Creative Park. MJ116 [the rap group behind MJ Fresh] will do these random concerts down there. It's pretty"street" - you wouldn't imagine something like that exists in Taiwan. They have turntables out there; young people rapping along in a circle. It's pretty damn cool thing to see. It's one of the reasons we keep working to keep this kind of street culture alive. Photo Courtesy: AsianJoe
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MUME'S WINTER OPENING IN TAIPEI'S EAST DISTRICT CAUSED A STIR AMONGST DISCERNING TAIWANESE FOODIES, WITH THIS NOMA-TRAINED CHEF TURNING OUT SIMPLE, YET ELEGANT DISHES CREATIVELY UTILISING LOCAL INGREDIENTS.
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What's your connection to Taipei? First off, I'm not actually Taiwanese. I was born in Hong Kong and raised in Toronto. I moved back to Asia after university, and happened to get a job in Taipei. It was the first time I'd visited the city, but I ended up living here for two years. So you were working at a restaurant in Taipei? No, not at all! I studied economics in university and used to work in finance; totally different from what I do know. In Taipei, I was working for a marketing firm focused mainly with luxury goods. Why move to Taipei, then, when you hadn't ever been here before? When you're young, you're more open to exploring and living in different countries, yes? Eight years ago, Taipei was pretty boring. You didn't have a lot of choices - in terms of food, drink - anything, really. But I liked the feeling of living in Taiwan - it's a nice balance between urban bustle and countryside calm. I like that when you have a day off, you can drive an hour and be deep into the countryside; go to Yilan or Yangmingshan. Even within the city, you can bike around the alleys. I never really feel at home when I go back to Hong Kong, but I realised that I felt more and more at home in Taipei every time I came back. How did you get into the culinary field? At 27, I decided to go to Sydney and attend culinary school. I'd always been interested, but at that point I thought - if I want to do something different, I have to do it before 30. 27 is considered quite old to just begin working in a kitchen. It's due to the fact that the work is very physical - and of course, it's high pressure job. You can be up to 16-18 hours on your feet at a tie. I was always nearly the oldest person in the kitchen, but working at the lowest level. It was very difficult. Tell me about your experience working at NOMA in Copenhagen. What did you do at the best restaurant in the world? I spent the first three months in the kitchen at NOMA, and then I moved to the Nordic Food Lab, which is like a "food laboratory" opposite of the restaurant. It was started by Rene [head chef at NOMA], and is a nonprofit organization that works with the University of Copenhagen to conduct research into different ingredients. It's so surreal because you're working with people with a purely scientific background - many of them were getting doctorates specialising in one field - aroma, or fermentation, etc. You need to look into food in such a deeper way.
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@ R I C H I E _ L I N Instagram
RICHIE LIN
@ R I C H I E L I N Spottly
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FOUNDER & HEAD CHEF OF MUME
How did you make your way back to Asia? After I left Copenhagen, I linked up with a friend who was looking to open a restaurant in Hong Kong. I grabbed some guys who were working alongside me in the Nordic Food Lab and headed there. I stayed for about a year, but left after everything was settled, since it was just a consulting role. Assisting in opening that restaurant was the best practice for MUME. At every turn, I was always thinking - well, if I had my restaurant, this is how I would do things... Why did you decide to start your own venture in Taiwan? Why not a more cosmopolitan city, like Tokyo or Hong Kong - with more of a fine dining culture? I like Taiwan because there is so much local produce here for me to play with. Much of it is stuff you can't really find outside of Taiwan. For example, there are nine different types of guava native to Taiwan and twelve different types of sweet potatoes. I learned all this from my friend, who's a master of Taiwanese ingredients and has published a few books solely on Taiwan's agricultural offerings. He goes all around the island chasing one specific type of produce, in the middle of nowhere and then bring the stuff back for us to try and use. How has the reception been from the local audience? Taiwanese people are famous for loving food, but not necessarily "fine dining". What considerations have you had to make for the local scene? There are pros and cons to opening up shop in Taipei. In a places like Hong Kong, there's definitely higher spending power, but rent and operating costs are extremely high as well. In general, I feel like it's easier to do something squarely within the realm of "fine dining" - where prices don't even matter - or do something priced within the range of 'fast food'. It's difficult to do anything in between. But with MUME, we wanted to go into that territory. Taiwan's food scene is also lacking something in that 'in-between" range. I think of a meal at MUME as an "affordable luxury" for most people here in Taipei. You've often been written up alongside (and even compared with) Andre Chiang's new venture RAW. How do you feel about that? Taiwan is small, so we've obviously gotten a good amount of press in the media. We opened the same week as RAW and are both doing modern Western cuisine, so it's natural that we're mentioned together. I don't see places like RAW as competition - in fact, I believe that it helps us. Everyone benefits, because the whole dining scene is getting more exciting. I'm not just this one weird guy doing something by all by himself. Now it's becoming a trend; it's a movement. It's a very good time to be in Taipei.
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No. 40 Ln. 63 Sec. 2 Dunhua S. Rd
Definitely one of my regular hangouts; when I'm not at my own place, I'm there. They're doing an amazing job bringing novel cocktail concepts in Taipei. Photo Courtesy: Sean Marc Lee
DIHUA STREET
Section 1, Dihua Street, Datong District
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The whole area of Dadaocheng has some really unique dried goods and it's all surrounded by food - the traditional spots, and some newcomers - cafes, ArtYard with the textiles. I just like to go there and cruise around. The old buildings have been beautifully preserved. Photo Courtesy: Wikimedia
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RICHIE'S FOODIE SPOTS "ALL MY SPOTS ARE CLOSE BY TO MUME, BECAUSE WE DON'T HAVE MUCH TIME OFF. PEOPLE WHO WORK IN THE KITCHEN TYPICALLY GET ONLY ONE DAY A WEEK, AND TO BE FRANK, MOST OF THAT TIME YOU SPEND SLEEPING."
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先進海產店 No. 5, Lane 23, Yanji Street, Songshan District, One of their signature dishes is the stir-fried pork liver. It's so good. The cook is a 70 year old man killing it on the wok, doing everything and producing these amazing dishes. Photo Courtesy: 喵喵筆記
NINGXIA NIGHT MARKET
Ningxia Rd., Datong District (between Nanjing W. Rd. and Minsheng W. Rd.) There's a night market in the Zhongshan area. It's my favorite. It's less touristy, which I appreciate. I feel like Shilin is so spread out, where if you don't know where to go, you don't know how to navigate it. Photo Courtesy: David Gilbert SPOT
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5 YINGGE CERAMICS STREET Jianshanbu Rd, Yingge District
I have some of my plates custom-made over there. Amazing ceramic artists and tea-ware. Ceramic here is so popular and common. That's why I have some of my plates made there Photo Courtesy: Carrie Kellenberger SPOT
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CHIANG KAI SHEK MEMORIAL HALL 21 Zhongshan S Rd, Zhongzheng District
DIN TAI FUNG
No.194, Section 2, Xinyi Rd, Sinyi District
I like to go here on my day off, bike around, and do nothing. It's my favorite spot to just chill out, let myself relax. The grounds are quite extensive, with some peaceful gardens. Photo Courtesy: Wikimedia
Lunch is always Chinese for me: cheap, easy, simple. In terms of
小籠包 / xiaolongbao, a lot of people argue about which version
is the best. I've tried all of them, and I still think that Din Tai Fung is the best. The attention to detail is incredible. You really can't complain about anything - except maybe the wait. Photo Courtesy: Daniel Food Diary
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CAFE DE RIZ
No. 34 Lane 78, AnHe Road, Sec. 1 A bit more of a modern Japanese style. The owner of the store is a lighting designer and he actually did the lights at MUME. He does the lighting for a lot of restaurants in Taipei. Lighting is huge for restaurants - as soon as it gets dark, the right lighting makes the food pop. Photo Courtesy: Stephanie Hsu
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AS THE FOUNDER OF CREATIVE CONSULTANCY A&M CREATIVE, MUSEE WU TALKS EXPORTING TAIWANESE TALENT, SHIFTING ATTITUDES, AND TAIWAN'S PLACE IN THE GLOBAL CULTURAL CONVERSATION.
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What's your connection to Taipei? I have a complicated relationship with Taipei in that it's supposedly my "hometown". My parents grew up here, and live here now - but initially, it felt like moving back to a new city because I didn't really spend that much time there growing up. I moved back to find my roots, and explore my relationship with the city. Obviously, I loved it - I've been here for the past seven years. You went to school in New York City, and there is such a glamour surrounding the opportunity to live and work as a creative there. Why give that up to come back? New York City is great, but I had already lived there for a long time, on and off for over ten years. I feel that I have more chances in Taipei to contribute to the creative scene. If there were maybe a hundred people like me in NYC, there would be only ten in Taipei - does that make sense at all? I've had the chance to maximize my skills and contribute a lot more in Taipei with what I've learned and been interested in. What were you doing when you first moved vs. what you're doing now with A&M? When I first came back I was unsure of what I wanted to do, so I bartended at this halfgallery, half-bar space. I went to interview for the gallery job, and came back with the bartending job! But it actually worked out for the better, because I met a lot of people who were involved in the arts in Taiwan while pouring drinks. I began to get involved in public art, exhibition planning and curation. I then got interested in the film industry, so I was assistant directing, and involved in art direction. All that led me to what I'm doing now at A&M, which I call a "creative consulting company." "Creative consulting" is sort of a bullshit term, but we didn't want to limit ourselves with a label. We do so many different things, it's insane. Much of it is production - but all kinds of production: film production, visual merchandising production, etc. Your business partner is from a fashion background-she formerly owned a boutique in Zhongshan. How did you two start working together? [My business partner] Annie and I first worked together on a project for Wallpaper*. We handled all of their production in Taipei for a Wallpaper* feature titled 'Taipei Revealed'. That extended into a lot of other film and photography projects. We found that we worked together very well, and afterwards we thought - hey, let's just do our own thing.
@ M U S E E W U Instagram
MUSEE WU
@ M U S E E W U Spottly
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FOUNDER OF A&M CREATIVE
17 I think that "production" or "producer" is a term that people - including myself - hear thrown around a lot, but don't actually really understand what it entails. Care to explain? What does a producer do, anyway? This means: a client will come to us say - we're coming to do something in Taipei, but we don't really have an idea of what we're going to do, so essentially - "tell us what to do". We're involved in sourcing locations, shooting, selecting and contacting people to be interviewed. We come up with proposals to give to their editors and whoever is funding the project, and we take care of all the production details during the shoot days. That's a problem with the creative scene here, wouldn't you say? There is so much raw talent, but somehow it necessarily entails effective exposure - which is often missing. Absolutely, and that's an important part of what I eventually want to accomplish with A&M. For me personally, it's not so much about bringing outside concepts and knowledge in, but pushing Taiwanese talent outside of Taiwan. It's a tiny island, and at times I feel that it's quite isolated from the global creative conversation. We started off by bringing outside media in, but I want to feature Taiwanese artists. That's a key part of our vision and ideology. There are so many creative and talented people who are doing great work, but they haven't been so successful at presenting their stuff on a more international platform. Well, if they're immensely talented and doing great work, what's the issue? Is it language? I wouldn't really say that its matter of language, since many Taiwanese speak English fairly well. It's hard to explain - but it's more of a "cultural knowledge". For example, if you are looking to exhibit in a major art center like Berlin, how do you communicate your needs; how do you express what you want to get done and the message you want to get out? You've been working here for seven years. In that time, how would you say that the creative attitudes (film, art, etc) in Taipei have changed? And how would you characterise the energy now? The attitude in Taiwan towards alien concepts and innovation tends to be harsh. Typically, if you present something that you think could work, the answer will be - “No. It's not possible. No one is doing that.� It's a very different attitude from places like New York. There, it's all - that sounds cool, what are you thinking exactly, how can we make this work? In Taiwan, it's not uncommon to receive an immediate rebuff. But I think that attitudes are changing. A lot of the younger people are much more receptive to new ideas, new designs, and new ways of doing things. Their attitudes have changed as well to - yes, I think that could work, I think I could do that. To me, that's the most important aspect.
16 JAMES KITCHEN
65 Yongkang Street, Daan District I often take visitors here: it's very traditional Taiwanese home cooking - like turnip omelette and pork lard rice - served in a retro setting. Photo Courtesy: Seven Second Rhapsody
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1 JING FENG 滷肉飯 No. 10, Section 1, Luósīfú Rd, Zhongzheng District They serve the best lu rou fan / 滷肉飯, Taiwanese braised pork rice. I used to live near it, so it was my go-to neighborhood joint for a quick bite. Photo Courtesy: Angelina Hue
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2F, 104, Zhongxiao E Rd Sec 2 A gastropub concept opened by famed live music cafe & venue A Train, right across from Huashan Cultural and Creative Park. I don't go so much for the drinks as for the super comfortable sofas. Photo Courtesy: B Line
CAFE COSTUMICE
No. 6, Alley 71, Lane 223, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Da’an District One of the few cafes in the city with outside seating. They have a large patio tucked in a quiet alley, so it's a nice place to laze away an entire afternoon in the sun. Photo Courtesy: Costumice
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No. 7 Beiping E. Rd.
One of my favorite places to visit on the weekend. The place has such an interesting story - it's an old military village that was set to be demolished, but got turned into an artists colony. There's often some event going on and its nice to walk along the Gongguan riverside afterwards.
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No.18, Sec. 2, Zhongshan N. Rd, Zhongshan District I always check what's playing at this art-house cinema in Zhongshan. It's housed this gorgeous building building that used to be the American embassy. Photo Courtesy:
THE WALL & LEGACY
NUKI CAFÉ
B1, No. 200, Wenshan District, Section 4, Roosevelt Road, 200 / 100
No. 5-1, Jinmen Street, Zhongzheng District
Both are my go-to spots for live music performances. Taipei has a thriving indie music scene. Photo Courtesy: The Wall
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The cafe takes up an entire building, in a little alley. It's easy to miss if you don't know to look for it. The first floor is cafe seating, the second floor has desks that are perfect for freelancers, and the third floor is a little gallery. Photo Courtesy: NUKI
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早安台北
@ TA I P E I F O O D I E B R E A K FA S T G U I D E What's your connection to Taipei? I went to elementary school and the first two years of middle school in Taiwan, but moved to the States thereafter. I came back to Taipei in June 2014 when I was offered a job here. I wanted a change, and thought it would be a great opportunity for me to explore the city, since it has changed so much in the past few years. Another factor in the decision to come back was family - they're mostly based in Taiwan now, and it was so nice to be back in the community.
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Why did you start the @TaipeiFoodie Instagram? I started the @taipeifoodie Instagram as a supplement to the food blog that I run. I was looking for a platform that allowed me to share more instant updates of what I’m currently eating. How do you discover great places to eat in Taipei? I’ll go through different food blogs and travel websites to find out what’s new in town; and other times, I just wander around the city and see what I’ll run into! Instagram is also becoming a great tool to discover food spots. I've noticed that the community is growing bigger and bigger in Taiwan. And of course I get tons of recommendations from friends and family - Taiwanese love to talk about food.
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BUS DAN BING HOUSE BUS 蛋餅坊
No. 33, Yitong Street, Zhongshan District
No. 193, Section 2, Neihu Road Early bird gets the worm! Get your typical Taiwanese pancakes with corn, cheese, or ham! Bus’s dan bing is super crispy and it is the ideal place to come for some tasty traditional Taiwanese breakfast!
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My latest find in Taipei. Either come for a morning pick-me-up or just simply to adore their décor! The Nordic style cafe also serves awardwinning coffee.
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COFFEE MEGANE 眼睛咖啡
NOM NOM
No. 137, Chaozhou Street, Da’an District
5 Lane 52 Si Wei Rd With an unique and distinctive oldtown Japanese touch, Coffee Megane gives you an escape from the buzzing Taipei City life. This is the place where you’ll most definitely find your inner peace.
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FIKA FIKA CAFE
If you also like to feed your camera with pretty food then this is the place for you. The cozy and laid-back atmosphere also makes it the perfect spot for a casual brunch date.
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DIN TAI FUNG 鼎泰豐 No.194, Section 2, Xinyi Rd, Sinyi District
ONE FIFTEEN 初衣食午 No. 92, Da An Road Sect. 1, Da’an District
Din Tai Fung is absolutely something you can’t miss in Taipei. It opens at 9 am on the weekends, and that’s when you can dive into juicy xiao long bao heaven.
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One Fifteen offers a fresh Mediterranean-style brunch, which is very unique among the countless cafes in Taipei. Its elegant interior resembles of a greenhouse, making it the perfect hub to dine on a sunny day.
YONGKANG DISTRICT 永康區喝咖啡
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there are thousands, enfolding small cafe and boutiques; doorways and windows dripping in greenery. Yongkang (Qintian) is Taiwan's cultural heart, with houses practically exhaling with history, preserved from the time of Japanese occupation. The area has more than a bit of an intellectual air, partially owed to the trifecta of universities in the area, and the scholarly crowd that flocks to the myriad of cafes dotting the neighborhood. The Yongkang neighborhood is serviced by Dongmen MRT.
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青田七六 No. 6, Lane 7, Qingtian Street, Da’an Disrict
QINTIAN76
CAFE KUROSHIO
Shoot the shit on a smoke-wreathed patio, or sip your single-origin coffee quietly while hearing hipsters debate in Chinese about subjects you aren't smart enough to understand even if they were speaking in English. Either way, check the Facebook page before your visit - the owners post a preview of the mouth-watering home-made cakes they're serving up each day. Photo Courtesy: Flickr Daniel Lin 5
永康階 27, Lane 243, JinHua St, Da’an Disrict
THE GREEN STEPS
ECOLE COFFEE SHOP
No. 6, Lane 1, Qingtian Street, Da’an District
In stark contrast to some of the more digitally connected cafes around the city, this little glass storefront hidden behind a leafy courtyard eschews the laptop crowd, cultivating a deliberate air of relaxation - brown rice tea latte served in delicate floral cups; a slice of matcha cheesecake - over conversation, not the computer. Photo Courtesy: Flickr zeping 則萍 3
Follow @spottlyinsider to see all of her spots in the app
No. 9-1, Lane 141, Section 1, Heping East Road, Da’an District
Formerly the abode of a famed geology professor at nearby National Taiwanese University, the traditional Japanese-era building has since been renovated into a cozy Japanese restaurant. Peep in at noon (make sure to bring socks, as no shoes are allowed) to catch a pleasant tableau of professors and academics on lunch break. Photo Courtesy: Swallow。旅行：： 2
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Taipei is not a city that looks good at first glance. Visitors riding in on the rattling buses that traverse the highways (route) from Taoyuan International Airport into the city's transportation hub are often shocked at the unexpected, empty fields, moisture-stained buildings swarming with dripping air-conditioning units; palm trees swaying in the heat. Where is the bustling Asian metropolis they expected, the futuristic, Blade Runner-esque city of sharp edges, clean lines and glittering skyscrapers? But those initiated into the secret know: The heart of Taipei lies in its alleys - and
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This extension of a mid-century furnishings purveyor serves up a fine example of the beloved cafe "set meal" - the Taiwanese take on Western favorites: A bit of salad, a simple sandwich or lasagna, and a Bailey's coffee. Photo Courtesy: Tumblr Taipei Cafes
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小自由 No. 1, Lane 243, Jinhua Street, Da’an District
CAFE LIBERO
Open late into the night, this famed cafe is more known for its whiskeys than its coffee (although - why not have both together?) Inside the byzantine interior, amongst vintage leather sofas, you'll be surprised to discover a pastry shop and gourmet foods counter. Photo Courtesy: DeliciousLife.pixnet
FORGOOD 好多咖啡 No 12, 41 Yongkang Street, Da’an District Creatives are out in full force, spread out over the communal tables at this airy space. Plus three hipster points for the mean flat white; the open kitchen, and the fixie bikes often parked inside. Photo Courtesy: pkeihs8382
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LESLIE SUN OF GUANG FU SOUTH ROAD’S SUNSET SHOP (No 115 Lane 417) WANTS MORE TAIWANESE TO BUY TO “TREAT YOURSELF” AND APPRECIATE A CASUAL REFINED LIFESTYLE.
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What is your connection to Taipei? I was born in Los Angeles but moved back to Taipei with my parents when I was 4. I was here until I graduated from high school, then moved back to LA, where I lived for 15 years, and returned just a few years ago. Taipei is more of a home to me because my family is here, and a lot of that culture is deeply embedded. As much as I've experienced a different lifestyle when I was living in LA, a huge part of me always belonged to Taipei. I studied marketing in college and graphic design in grad school. I worked at a studio for a while, and then retail as well. It's a bit of both worlds I was doing publication design for museums, galleries, art catalogues, and then I did retail at a small boutique. In fact, a lot of Sunset’s sensibility resembles that place in various ways. What sensibility would that be? I'm drawn to things that are "true to itself"; beauty in its original form, function and craft. There are different kinds of select shops in Taipei that also offer lifestyle objects, but want my shop to have its unique, individual feel. I call the aesthetic "casual refined": perhaps a bit rougher than Japanese, but just as elegant -with a touch of that relaxed West Coast vibe. I even the way we display pieces to be casual we're not a rigid select shop where you are not allowed to touch anything. I want people to feel that everything is approachable, comfortable and relatable; you treat yourself to items that are both useful and beautiful. Opening a select shop like this without a real focus on fashion is a risk in Taipei, isn't it? Historically, Taiwanese have not been known to spend on anything other than fashion, much less home goods. Yes, but that's changing – I believe that there’s a growing population here that are willing to spend more on their homes and not just on clothes and accessories. It took me 3 years to open this shop because I wasn't sure how receptive the local audience would be. Will people be willing to put their spending power to make their surroundings distinctive? The older generation tends to not care as much or fully grasp what lifestyle goods can do to your quality of life. The attitude is: if you're just going to be using it yourself, there’s no need for the best. "The good stuff" are reserved for guests. I want to see that change - whether you live alone or with family, the things you show to guests should be the things you use in your daily life. It's part of loving yourself - "treat yourself".
@ S U N L E S Instagram
LESLIE SUN
@ L E S L I E S U N Spottly
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FOUNDER OF SUNSET SHOP
23 Why a retail shop instead of a less risky online platform? Sure, I could have a webshop, and that would be easier, but it's always different when you walk into a physical retail space. I want Sunset to be an experimental lab - I like to transform spaces - for example, into a tropical rainforest. I like the idea of going into a space and entering this hyperreality - a bit fantastical, a bit whimsical. I hope to offer that to people. I plan to re-arrange things; make the interior wholly different; surprise people. I used to go to a lot of art openings in LA and the ecosystem is quite mature; there are always interesting artists showing, with people from all walks attending and publications supporting. It's social and indiscriminating; the public is informed, you go with friends, you make friends, it’s a normal thing to do, it’s relevant and it's human. The strange thing about galleries in Taipei is, information on art events are almost inaccessible to the general public. It's a very old school mentality; galleries just want to sell, and the events and receptions are catered solely to collectors. They need to know that there are benefits of exposing art to the public and to young people. Maybe there's this young kid who gets inspired looking at a million dollar painting, and in 10 years, he can actually afford to buy it - or, even better - it's his artwork hanging on the wall. How do you feel that the retail scene in Taipei has changed over the years? Eslite Group did a lot in bringing the concept of good design to a much wider audience. It’s a good sign of the market's perception of lifestyle. If they are opening ventures like that in such a large scale, it's great for people like me. They're very smart to extend the experience into food: people go for the food court, and that leads them to the rest of the retail space. Eating and drinking as a lifestyle is something that Taiwanese people are familiar with. That's why we're about to start serving coffee at Sunset, and put a couple of benches out on the stoop: a cup of coffee makes everything less intimidating. What's in the future for Sunset? The local scene is not used to the concept of a "pop-up store", so I'd be interested in doing a few in Sunset. I would also love to eventually work with local artisans. I love housewares, and would love to create my own line that I can eventually sell alongside the imports in my shop and the level of sophistication would be equal. I’d like to spice things up, contrasting of old craft with new aesthetics. None of these are grand money-making plans - they'd just be for my own satisfaction, and others who appreciate the same things.
22 ORANGE SHABU SHABU HOUSE B1, No. 135, Da An Road, Sec 1, B1
Love going there for shabu-shabu. Everyone has to have a favorite spot for hotpot. That's a general topic of conversation here in Taiwan - an ice-breaker of sorts. Photo Courtesy: Taipei Trends
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No. 18, Songgao Road, Xinyi District I would love to have a mini-shop in a hotel. I saw project 8 do their thing at the Ace Hotel in New York, something that I curate for a boutique hotel. Humble House would be the best fit in terms of aesthetics and sensibility. Photo Courtesy: Humble House Hotels SPOT
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LESLIE'S CASUAL SPOTS KIOSK
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No. 40, Section 1, Xinsheng N Rd, Zhongshan District
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This cafe seems to be where all the cool kids are going to lately. It's the only place out of my one-mile radius that I would travel to - I don't consider myself a "cool kid" whatsoever, but I do appreciate good coffee. Photo Courtesy: Kiosk
EIEIO GASTROPUB
No. 8, Lane 14, Siwei Road, Da’an District I go here when I miss American food. Their buttermilk fried chicken is better than a lot of the versions I've had in the States. I typically don't eat chicken skin, but that chicken skin...oh, I would eat it. Photo Courtesy: Stephanie Hsu
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R&D COCKTAIL LAB
No. 178, Yanji St, Da’an District
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It's located right aross the street from my apartment, and they make great cocktails. It's very mellow - I just go there with friends for a chat. Photo Courtesy: R&D Cocktail Lab
HALO
ATT 4 FUN 8F Taipei When I'm feeling the urge for a bigger night out, I head to this lounge. The patio features an amazing view of 101. Photo Courtesy: HALO
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WOOLLOOMOOLO
No.379 Sec. 4, Xinyi Rd, Xinyi Distict I have a major sweet tooth, so I go to places over and over just because their dessert is good. This is an Aussie-inspired cafe with brunch and light food as well, but I go for their amazing banana cream cake. Photo Courtesy: Woolloomoolo
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BIKING TO GUANDU Guandu, Beitou District
I have a major sweet tooth, so I go to places over and over just because their dessert is good. This is an Aussie-inspired cafe with brunch and light food as well, but I go for their amazing banana cream cake. Photo Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons
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FROM UNDERWEAR DESIGNER TO OIL PAINTER – VOGUE TAIWAN ART COLUMNIST ANGELA CHEN SHARES RANDOM ENCOUNTERS, CREATIVE CONFIDENCE AND AN ELEMENT OF FATE WITH ART.
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What's your connection to Taipei? I'm not from Taipei originally - I was born and raised in Taichung, a city in central Taiwan. I moved to Kaohsiung for high school, and then moved up to Taipei for university. I studied architecture in university because of my family business. Just as I was about to graduate, my mom told me that she had sold the business! That must have been a huge shock - four years of plans, gone in an instant. Yes! I had no real idea of what I wanted to do from there, so I went to Italy and attended the Instituto Marangoni to study fashion. This was almost ten years ago. Many of my classmates went on to be very successful in the fashion world - editors at Harper's Bazaar, fashion icons and designers. So there's still this element of - well, then, what am I doing? I feel like they're doing "adult things", while I'm still dabbling in child's play. I'm just doing what I love, and what I feel like doing. There's nothing wrong with that - you're doing you, and you're doing it so well! I mean, you're sitting in a cafe getting interviewed and Sean just photographed you wearing a tutu, so you must be doing something right. So how did you move back to Asia? When I first moved back to Taiwan from Italy, I worked for Old Master Q, a famous Chineselanguage comic book. This comic is decades old already; it's a classic. But my job was so boring - it was to color in every frame of the comic book, since it was originally published in black & white. They wore the same clothes in every single frame - how dull is that? So I complained to my boss, and he told me to design new clothes for the characters. Tutus for everyone, even Old Master Q! But they never even used any of my designs! I eventually left the comic to open my own underwear company, called Two Bunnies. I feel that Asian girls are more conservative, not comfortable in their sexuality. So the concept was that wearing the underwear would give you "bad girl superpowers". I remember I designed a skin colored underwear with "tattoos" printed on the ass. If you have any more in stock, send them my way. Does the company still exist? I had my underwear company for a few years - and I was struggling; I felt like I spent all day checking numbers. One day, I went to have a smoke on the balcony - the day I had to decide whether to pay the factory to do the new collection. After the cigarette, I walked into the office and told them the business was closing. It was a relief. You think that to be an owner of your own business is a big deal? No. When you're in that position, everyone is your boss. When I had the company, I was really stressed and felt that I had to do something else to take my mind off my work. My friend was studying oil painting and asked me to join. I started
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@ A N G E L A C H E N A R T Instagram
ANGELA CHEN
@ A N G E L A R O S S O Spottly
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ARTIST AND VOGUE TAIWAN ART COLUMNIST
selling after the second painting I did. So I thought - hey, why not be an artist? So that's what I did. So you thought - let me return to a safe job, with a consistent income, all that - and then decided to become an oil painter. It wasn’t something I really planned at all. When I had the company, I was really stressed and felt that I had to do something else to take my mind off business struggles. My friend was studying oil painting and asked me to join her. I started selling after the second painting I did. So I thought - hey, why not be an artist? So that's what I did - and The Art of Angela Chen was born. Oh, no big deal! From underwear designer to oil painter! Tell me about the inspiration behind your art, then. You paint a lot of anthropomorphic portraits of animals - do they stand as symbols for someone or something? I actually mine my social circle for inspiration. I like to hear my friends' stories and gossip; observe their lives - and note the difference in the way I understand their lives and the way they perceive themselves; it’s often very different. So my paintings are in essence the stories of my friends. For example - I’ll can think of a couple that I think are together only because they're both extremely lonely. They might not know, but they show up in my artwork. You’re also the Vogue Taiwan art columnist. How’d you land that gig? I got it through my agent. It was just an idea - I thought: I think I should have a blog. So I asked, and somehow got Vogue. You’d be surprised how far you can get just by asking. But I feel like there’s an element of fate as well. You end up places you wouldn’t expect. I actually got that first Master Q job because I was loitering on the street one day and bumped into a former teacher, who happened to be the comic creator’s son. He asked - do you have a job at the moment? I said that I didn’t, and then he said - Show up at 9am tomorrow. It was a random encounter, but I took him seriously and showed up the next day. What's in the works for The Art of Angela Chen? Soon, I'm going to be the host of a TV show, interviewing artists. The show is going to be distributed in China. We want to push my artwork in China, but people don't know me yet. So hence, the show. It's an expensive plan. I’ve also been working on some cool content for my Vogue blog - the art blog isn’t what you’d think - a boring interview of me talking to some artist. It explores art in all different forms - like tattoos. I’m writing a feature about girls who choose to get tattoos, so we’ve shot lots of pictures of Taiwanese girls with cool tattoos. Taiwanese society still views these girls in a negative way; they think that having tattoos is a sign that they’re bad people. But that's obviously not true. They’re just living the way they feel like living - just like I am
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2 QIN WEI GUAN 陕西秦味館 No. 2, Lane 138, Yanji Street, Da’an District
VG CAFÉ
No. 4 Lane 279, Section 1, Fuxing Rd. S They began as a gallery and then added the cafe. The food is hearty and the interior is cosy. Although it's quite dark, I like the intimacy and you have the feeling of being hidden in a corner. Photo Courtesy: VG Cafe
On Yanji Road for Xinjiang cuisine. The desert is amazing - a fried goat cheese puff pastry with powdered sugar. You see writers, politicians - but I don't go there for them. I go there for the food. Photo Courtesy: Sweetmemory99.pixnet
ANGELA'S ART AND GRUB SPOTS MONO MONO
17, Alley 29, Lane 127, AnHe Road, Sec. 1
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It's always packed - an older crowd. It's a lot of media and film types, but I don't really care about this whole art scene. I go for a glass of wine and a good gossip session with friends. Photo Courtesy: Mono Mono
WRONG GALLERY
No. 68, Section 2, Zhongxiao East Road, Zhongzheng District
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The owner likes to collect movie costumes; original versions. The gallery is quite trendy, and the artists are younger - a bit different from traditional gallery set-up a lot more fun. I always enjoy their exhibitions. Photo Courtesy: Wrong Gallery
TAIPEI FINE ARTS MUSEUM
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No.181, Sec. 3, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District
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101 玩具王國 No. 60, Section 2, Anhe Road, Da’an District I go to toy stores a lot - is that weird? They don't sell the newest toys, but more nostalgic items. When you were little and you wanted something, but you didn't have the money to buy it - but now you can. Photo Courtesy: 101玩具王國
SAFFRON INDIAN CUISINE 38-6 Tian Mu E. Rd, Taipei 111
Tianmu has a delicious Indian restaurant. There are two similar restaurants next to each other, but it's the one with the less fancy decor. It's far, but I go there on special occasions or when I'm really craving Indian food. Photo Courtesy: Saffron
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LITTLE NEW YORK PIZZERIA No. 18, Alley 16, Lane 71, Jiangnan Street, Neihu District
This is my husband's venture - we don't have some huge plan; it's a tiny store where he makes New York-style pizza. We're planning to move to Minsheng Community, and expand the store. There are a lot of cute places on Fujin St; many designers live and work there. Photo Courtesy: Little New York Pizzeria
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OTS CHESS CLUB’S JON LIN ON ABC IDENTITY, LOCALIZING HIP-HOP FORMAT NIGHTLIFE AND TAIPEI AFTER DARK.
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What's your connection to Taipei? Why would you call yourself an "ABC"? I was born here; grew up in the States. I always say that I came back to be with family. But of course an underlying reason of coming back has to do with my upbringing - no matter what you do, you're always a bit disconnected from the mainstream American culture. I came back in my late twenties when everything was going well for me, but I thought - if not now, then when? I never thought I would ever come back to Taiwan, and now I don't know why I didn't come back sooner. Moving back was a new start; like a blank piece of paper - I learnt a lot, and am still learning. Would you agree that more ABCs are moving back? What is "ABC culture", and how has it affected Taipei? I think that in different cultures, you naturally develop certain aspects of your personality in order to survive. In the US, being so big and diverse, they emphasizes on self-confidence it's almost to the point that if you're shy, you're seen as "weak". Whereas in Taipei, being humble and modest are seen as key attributes. There are some expats who carry this Western persona, which doesn't match well with the local ideal. I think that what's important is being willing to learn, assimilate; and not thinking that you're superior to anyone else. How did you get the idea to open Chess Taipei? When I came back to Taiwan, I was having fun in local clubs, but there was definitely a difference from what I know in the States. I also noticed that there is a growing community who are ready for something fresh. I saw an opportunity but wasn't going to build the same club here that I would in the States - the concept just wouldn't translate. Local culture and ideals are still very dominant forces that you have to take into account. Tell me about hip-hop format nightlife in Taiwan, and how Chess is a part of that. There has always been a hip-hop culture in Taiwan - and for that, we are forever grateful. The local hip-hop culture here is very raw – mostly turntables and free-styling. What Chess is bringing is that same spirit, but within a nightclub setting. When a new album drops - maybe not KRS1 - it could be Kanye or Drake's new stuff - you're going to be hearing that at Chess. I think our level of curation is relatively rare in Asia. Something I can say on the record is that there have been quite a few operators who have tried to copy us. They think - let's copy their playlists, copy their hardware, sink more money, and steal their crowd; hip-hop is on the rise. But we believe that there is a culture that we have been building organically - people come to us because they understand our spirit and love what we are doing, that’s why they are loyal to us.
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@ O T S _ J O N L I N Instagram
JON LIN
@ J O N L I N Spottly
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FOUNDER OF OTS CHESS TAIPEI
Where do you see Taipei nightlife going? I hope to see more people collaborating and working together; realising that the market is big enough for all of us to survive; seeing the chances to grow the scene together. And it's not just the operators - the Taiwanese government as well. Our line of work is an easy target - "Oh, nightlife is so bad, drinking is evil" - and the media massacres anything that we do. But when you look at trends, it's a big part of the socio-economic development of any city. Cities flourish with a well-developed and robust nightlife, but only when the government and operators are able to work together and open a dialogue. When the police come in and do their habitual raids - it's like - I didn't do anything wrong, I'm not operating illegally… I hope this can change. I hope that nightlife becomes more accepted and institutionalised - that way we can get the best of the best coming out to Taiwan, instead of always just following trends. What have you learned from Chess as a research hub? I think what Chess has done well is that we’re very focus on our branding, and not just maximizing the spending of our customers. Money isn't as appealing to us as curating the right crowd. It's not about capturing the entire local market - but rather gathering people who are interested in what we believe in. In other cities around the world, you go to clubs to find the newest trends and see what other people are doing. Here in Taipei - you don't go to the club to find and listen to good music; that's just not how the nightlife culture has evolved. But that's something we want to change. Was there a turning point; a sort of "we made it" moment for you? Oh, it has to be when we did a party at Elkan Lappo. After the Gucci party, he and his crew came; we were packed. As an entrepreneur, I always doubt myself - my club isn't good enough - it could be so much better. But that night, I looked around at Chess and saw how we've grown. That day I stood there and thought - man, I'm running a US nightclub. That was a big moment for me. We want to do a bigger club and bring fresher ideas. We don't have to copy trends - we can be as innovative as any other place in the world; and I really believe in that. If the audience and the market is behind us and they trust us, then I promise that we will do our best to make it happen - Taipei can lead the conversation instead of always lagging behind.
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HOTEL V
No. 48, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District They're a beast, my number one retail experience. They go to the places like the UK and go get brands like Nigel Cabourn mostly catered towards men. Photo Courtesy: Hotel V/Sean Marc Lee
ARTIFACTS
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No. 23, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District I don't have time to go to Tokyo all the time, but the good folks behind Artifacts go out there and bring back some of the best fashion from Japan. A great curation of Japanese contemporary apparel and accessories. Photo Courtesy: Artifacts
JON LIN'S C U R AT E D S P O T S NE.SENSE
Jilong Road Section 2 #52 1F, Xinyi District
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Started by three Taiwanese brothers; I respect them for bringing global brands to the Taiwanese audience. Like this shirt I'm wearing, Fear of God - it's sold out pretty much everywhere, but they've managed to build a relationship with that brand, so here, they have it. Photo Courtesy: NE.SENSE/ Sean Marc Lee
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No. 22, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District They've designed their restaurant to be more like a bar - a home, friendly environment where the chefs and the servers can really interact with the customers. It's very organic. Photo Courtesy: Black Buddha
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No. 15-1, Lane 44 SiWei Rd., Da'an District I call them a Taiwanese gastropub - they serve "nouveau Taiwanese" - taking classics and elevating the ingredients, the cooking methods, but it's still family style in a casual environment. The third location is opening in the West Village in NYC, which amazes me. Photo Courtesy: Black Buddha
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143, Wenchang St, Daan District I also like the vegan culture here - Taiwan has great produce and health culture - it's bubbling to the surface. My friends who come from LA, hardcore vegans, stumbled upon it and loved it. Photo Courtesy: Black Buddha
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SONGYAN ESLITE
1F,No.88 Yanchang Road, Xinyi District I think it's one of the most interesting, well-curated malls I've ever been to. They have a floor of DIY stuff - make your own glass, living plant art, leather goods. Eslite is changing the traditional mall concept. The Eslite Art House in the basement shows a selection of films ranging from mainstream to documentaries to indie flicks - I love it because they have healthy snacks and gourmet food. Photo Courtesy: Eslite Living
SPOT
8 MAN ZHE DIE
No. 26, Lane 553, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Xinyi District A casual place to unwind with friends over a chirashi bowl. Chirashi bowls and foot massages is how I live on my Sundays. Photo Courtesy: Man Zhe Die
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中山逛街
ZHONGSHAN SHOPPING GUIDE
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Follow @spottlyinsider to see all of her spots in the app
Zhongshan is Taipei's de-facto design 'hood; an area full of showrooms, galleries and studios. A stronger Japanese influence has has lingered in comparison to other sections of the city - no doubt in part due to the plethora of Japanese businesses headquartered here. Alley explorations are of key importance here - as one of Taipei's most artistic areas, walking past an innocuous alley can mean missing an amazing boutique- or five.
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BOODAY
PPAPER SHOP
No. 18-1, Lane 25, Nanjing W Rd, Datong District
Lane 26, Section 2, Zhongshan North Road, Zhongshan District
Taiwan's flagship "slow life" brand began with a line of cotton t-shirts and has since morphed into a line of clothing and accessories that celebrate simplicity, handicraft, and sustainability. A visit to their multi-story store-cafe space will uncover tables made of recycled wood, Japanese decorating magazines. Photo Courtesy: Flickr: kewpiebb99
Run by the creative agency behind Chinese-language design mag Ppaper, the retail space is a carefully curated complement to the magazine's aesthetic - stocking imported clothing, home & office goods, as well as a selection of creations of its own design. Photo Courtesy: Retail Design Blog
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GALOOP (G LOVE)
LOVELY TAIWAN
27, Lane 243, JinHua St, Da’an Disrict
No. 18-2, Lane 25, Nanjing West Road, Datong District
Beloved Taiwanese lifestyle brand Galoop centers around simple garments with playful details and understated patterns. G Love is the free-spirited younger sister to the more sophisticated Galoop brand, and I swoon for the quirky stationary and their nail polish line, offered in every imaginable hue. Photo Courtesy: TTeacafe
Featuring items crafted by Taiwan's aboriginal tribes - often made with traditional techniques and materials - this multi-outlet shop aims to give back. Much of the proceeds from the range of goods on offer - woodcarvings, home-spun cloth bags, and ceramics - return to the communities that produced them. A perfect place to find sustainable souveniers. Photo Courtesy: Nykeiko 6
61 NOTE SHOP AND TEA
No. 6, Alley 10, Lane 64, Nanjing West Road, Datong District A prime example of the mixed-use, LOHAS (lifestyle of health and sustainability) influenced spaces across the the city, this part tea-shop, part store, part cafe features an understated aesthetic. Stop by for a bit of shopping before indulging in tea-time. Photo Courtesy: Mari @ iPeen
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小器 No. 27, Chi Feng St., Datong District
XIAOQI + K
The Taiwanese often look to their Japanese neighbors for design inspiration, and this lifestyle shop's simple wooden interiors and products - a tribute to Japanese simplicity - never fails to deliver. Photo Courtesy: 小器
NIGHTLIFE
東區夜遊
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fuck cares when you're having so much fun? Although the cost of drinking in Taipei may be a bit lower in comparison to its more cosmopolitan neighbors, don’t go expecting to get dollar buckets a la a Thai Full Moon Party. Many of the bars listed below do meticulous, creative work, and you pay accordingly. While the hub of club-life in Taipei is centered around the sleek Xinyi District, the East District is prime for bar-hopping.
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DIARY BISTRO
No. 53, Dongfeng Street, Da’an District
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WOOTP / 窩台北 / WOO TAIPEI
Whereas in Taipei bars it seems that interiors take last priority, WOO Taipei (known as "WOOTP") is meticulously done up - think funky, upscale British gastropub. Add to that a refreshing lack of a pretentious “scene” – and inimitable Taiwanese friendliness in regards to service. A must order is their Blossom Sangria. An additional warning: many a night has begun (and ended) with their deadly absinthe drips. An Italianinspired dinner menu is available. Photo Courtesy: Woo Taipei 5
MOD PUBLIC BAR
Sec. 4, Ln. 345, Alley 4, No. 40, Ren Ai Road, Da'An District
RECHAO / FIND YOUR FAVORITE
No. 68, Leli Rd, Da’an District
A classic on the locals' bar circuit, patronized an older artistic crowd. Photo Courtesy:
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Follow @spottlyinsider to see all of her spots in the app
No. 39-1, Lane 205, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Da’an District
A sleek industrial interior designed by the proprietor himself houses an open kitchen with a delightful fusion menu. The tapas are especially stand-out the 'fried rock" - seafood fried in black squid-ink batter - is a visual trip. Photo Courtesy:
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The humid, neon maze of Taipei's nightlife is a bit of an underthe-radar gem - those in the know flock from neighboring hubs for the friendly people, affordable table service, and cheap taxis, a combination leading to guaranteed weekend fun. Our interviewee Jon Lin describes it as "the South Beach of Asia. Sure, we don't have the beaches as close to the clubs, but the effect is similar: it's so laid-back; people are just out to have a good time." The nightlife scene is more often than not a beat behind the global trends, but who the
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By far Taipei’s cheapest way to get drunk is by downing bottles on bottles of Taiwanese beer while eating your way through a huge variety of stir-fried goodness at a traditional Taiwan drinking house; “rechao” / 熱炒. There are hundreds in the city, and each person has their favorite spot. Never pay more than 300 NT ($10 USD) for a tableful of food and beer. Photo Courtesy: Flickr Bangdoll 6
MARSALIS HOME HOTEL No. 90 Songren Road, Taipei, Xinyi District
Taipei recently surpassed the United States to become the world's second largest consumer of whiskey - a fact that you'll find not at all surprising when considering the number of whiskey bars in the city. This smokey, dark den at the Home Hotel is one of the best. Photo Courtesy: Marsalis Home
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FUCKING PLACE 操場 2 F. No. 169, Sec 2, He Ping E. Rd., Da’an District Perhaps Taipei’s most beloved “dive bar” – favored by the city’s cinematic crowd and featuring – surprise, surprise – cheap beer. Photo Courtesy: Flickr mursu909
TA I P E I
HUMBLE HOUSE
27
Shop A, G/F, 9 – 11 Cleveland St, Fashion Walk
LITTLE NEW YORK PIZZERIA
27
No. 18, Alley 16, Lane 71, Jiangnan Street, Neihu District
MONO MONO
17, Alley 29, Lane 127, AnHe Road, Sec. 1
SAFFRON INDIAN CUISINE
26 27
No. 40, Section 1, Xinsheng N Rd, Zhongshan District
ORANGE HOTPOT
22 23
27
2F, 104, Zhongxiao E Rd Sec 2
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No. 6, Alley 71, Lane 223, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Da’an District
WRONG GALLERY
26
Zhongzheng District
B LINE CAFE COSTUMICE JAMES KITCHEN
16 16
CAFÉ KUROSHIO
16
65 Yongkang Street, Da'an District
JING FENG 滷肉飯
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NUKI CAFE
17
No. 5-1, Jinmen Street, Zhongzheng District
19
No. 9-1, Lane 141, Section 1, Heping East Road,
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SPOT TAIPEI
先進海產店 No. 5, Lane 23, Yanji Street, Songshan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 105
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RYAN YEH CAMPUS CAFE
No. 10, Section 1, Luósfú Rd, Zhongzheng District
CAFÉ GUIDE
YINGGE CERAMICS STREET Jianshanbu Rd., Yingge Dist., Xinbei
TAIPEI FINE ARTS MUSEUM
No. 68, Section 2, Zhongxiao East Road,
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WOOLLOOMOOLOO 23 No.379 Sec., 4, Xinyi Rd., Xinyi District
MUSEE WU
No. 4 Lane 279, Section 1, Fuxing Rd. S.,
NINGXIA NIGHT MARKET Ningxia Rd., Datong District (between Nanjing W. Rd. and Minsheng W. Rd.)
OUNCE 12
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VG CAFE
13
No. 40 Ln. 63 Sec. 2 Dunhua S. Rd
QIN WEI GUAN 陕西秦味館
No.181, Sec. 3, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District
DIN TAI FUNG
No. 178, Yanji St, Da’an District
38-6 Tian Mu E. Rd, Taipei 111
No. 2, Lane 138, Yanji Street, Da’an District
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No.194, Section 2, Xinyi Rd,Taipei
B1, No. 135, Da An Road, Sec 1, B1
R&D COCKTAIL LAB
DIHUA STREET Section 1, Dihua Street, Datong District
KIOSK 22
ANGELA CHEN
101 玩具王國
22
No. 18, Songgao Road, Xinyi District
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No.18, Sec. 2, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District
Da’an District
CAFÉ LIBERO 小自由
08
No. 99, Lane 11, Guangfu North Road
CHESS TAIPEI 2F, #297, Zhongxiao E. Road, Sec.5
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JIANGUO BRIDGE Jianguo Bridge, Yingge District
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LIN DONG FANG 林東芳牛肉面 No. 274, Section 2, Bãdé Road, Zhongshan District
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SAMWON GARDEN 1F, No. 45, Lane 188, Ruiguang Road, Neihu District
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THE TASTING ROOM 09 No. 14, Alley 5, Lane 107, Section 1, Fuxing South Road, Da’an District
No. 1, Lane 243, Jinhua Street, Da’an District
SPOTS INDEX
ECOLE COFFEE SHOP No. 6, Lane 1, Qingtian Street, Da’an District
QINTIAN 76 青田七六
No. 6, Lane 7, Qingtian Street,Da’an Disrict
好多咖啡 FORGOOD
No 12, 41 Yongkang Street, Da’an District
永康階 THE GREEN STEPS
XIMENDING: MJ FRESH / REMIX / DSSENT 08 No.88, Hanhou Road Section2, Taipei/ No. 19, Lane 96, Kunming St, Wanhua District
YILAN 09 Toucheng Town, Yilan County
SHOPPING 61 NOTE SHOP & TEA
27, Lane 243, JinHua St, Da’an Disrict
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No. 6, Alley 10, Lane 64, Nanjing West Road, Datong District
JON LIN
THE WALL & LEGACY
ARTIFACTS 30
B1, No. 200, Wenshan District, Section 4, Roosevelt Road, 200
No. 12, Lane 52, Section 1, Da'an Road, Da’an District
TREASURE HILL ARTIST VILLAGE
District
No. 23, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District
DAWAN 30 No. 22, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District
HOTEL V
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No. 48, Lane 177, Section 1, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District
MAN ZHE DIE
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No. 17, Aly. 9, Ln. 346, Sec.2, Bade Road, Da’an District
MISSGREEN 31 143, Wenchang St, Da'an District
NE SENSE SONGYAN ESLITE & ESLITE THEATER TUA CULTURE
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No. 90 Songren Road , Taipei, Xinyi District, 110, Taiwan
MOD PUBLIC BAR
22
COFFEE MEAGANE 眼睛咖啡
5 Lane 52 Si Wei Rd
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CHIANG KAI SHEK MEMORIAL HALL 21 Zhongshan S Rd, Zhongzheng District
DIN TAI FUNG 鼎泰豐
No.194, Section 2, Xinyi Road
FIKA FIKA CAFÉ
RICHIE LIN CAFE DE RIZ
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No. 193, Section 2, Neihu Road
No. 39-1, Lane 205, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Da’an District
No. 34 Lane 78, AnHe Road, Sec. 1
HALO
BUS DAN BING HOUSE BUS 蛋餅坊
WOOTP / WOO TAIPEI
GUANDU 23
XIAOQI + K 小器
TAIPEIFOODIE
RECHAO
Guandu, Beitou District
Lane 26, Section 2, Zhongshan North Road, Zhongshan District No. 27, Chi Feng St., Datong District
操場｜ FUCKING PLACE
No. 8, Lane 14, Siwei Road, Da’an District
LOVELY TAIWAN SHOP No. 18-2, Lane 25, Nanjing West Road, Datong District
PPAER SHOP
2 F. No. 169, Sec 2, He Ping E. Rd., Daan District, Taipei
LESLIE SUN
ATT 4 FUN 8F Taipei
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MARSALIS HOME HOTEL
No. 68, Leli Rd, Da’an District
BOODAY No. 18-1, Lane 25, Nanjing W Rd, Datong GALOOP (G LOVE)
No. 53, Dongfeng Street, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
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No. 15-1, Lane 44 SiWei Rd., Da'an District
EIEIO GASTROPUB
DIARY BISTO
86SHOP
No. 1, Lane 169, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Xinyi District
NIGHTLIFE
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1F,No.88 Yanchang Road, Xinyi District
17
No. 7 Beiping E. Road
Sec. 4, Ln. 345, Alley 4, No. 40, Ren Ai Road, Da'An District
Jilong Road Section 2 #52 1F, Xinyi District
17
No. 33, Yitong Street, Zhongshan District
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NOM NOM No. 137, Chaozhou Street, Da’an District
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ONE FIFTEEN No. 92, Da An Road Sect. 1, Da’an District
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