2020-21 OTC Winter Guide

WINTER GUIDE 2020 / 2021

WINTER, WELCOME COLORADANS SEE POWDER DAYS AS PERFECT REMEDY FOR TOUGH 2020 pg 3

Epic road trip pg 16

Skiing preview pg 24

Leave no trace pg 43

Get OutThere

OutThere Colorado website provides recommendations, features and news

By Breanna Sneeringer OutThereColorado.com DELIVERS THE LATEST NEWS RELATED TO OUTDOOR RECREATION IN THE STATE, including weather forecasts, traffic updates, snow outlooks and more. By utilizing sources such as the Colorado Department of Transportation, National Weather Service and Colorado Avalanche Information Center, OutThere Colorado helps to keep winter travelers prepared for the road ahead.

Outdoor enthusiasts also can visit the website to find travel inspiration, cultural content, trail reviews, podcasts and more.

STAY UP TO DATE with Colorado's outdoor news here:

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Inside

SPOTLIGHT

Steamboat Springs

3 COLORADO NATIONAL PARKS Made for winter

ICEBREAKER

A cool experience in Ouray

Explore

WINTER IN COLORADO

This map will have you going places

AVALANCHE 101

Keep yourself alive out there

KEEP CLIMBING

Tips for bagging your next fourteener

COOL WINTER RIDES

Quality biking on the Front Range

AND MUCH MORE! OutThere Colorado Staff Spencer McKee Director of Content and Operations Breanna Sneeringer Digital Content Producer CONTACT info@outtherecolorado.com facebook.com/outtherecolorado instagram.com/outtherecolorado twitter.com/outthereco pinterest.com/outthereco

FEATURE STORY

COVID CLAUSE WINTER ADVENTURE LIKELY TO LOOK DIFFERENT IN 2020

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Jeannie Sheeks Magazine Designer Nathan Van Dyne Magazine Editor Seth Boster Magazine Reporter

BRING ON THE SNOW Importance of winter soars to new heights

By Seth Boster

CLOUDS WERE BUILDING, BUT IT WAS OTHERWISE A PERFECT AFTERNOON ON THE SLOPES. IT WAS MARCH 14, THE PROMISE OF A SNOWY SPRING BLOOMING AT BRECKENRIDGE. That's when Laurel LaRose and her group of about 20 noticed things changing.

"All of a sudden," she recalled, "the signs came up about social distancing and lift lines, only sitting with people you knew on the chairlifts."

IT WAS A DAY COLORADO SKIERS WON'T SOON FORGET.

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HOURS LATER, AS DAY TURNED TO NIGHT, A POWDER-CRAZED POPULATION BECAME AWARE OF THE ORDER FROM GOV. JARED POLIS: ALL LIFTS WERE TO SHUT DOWN IMMEDIATELY. PARTS OF SKI COUNTRY WERE SEEING THE STATE'S FIRST CONFIRMED CASES OF THE NOVEL CORONAVIRUS. LaRose and fellow members of Colorado Springs' Sno-Jets Ski Club would be coming home earlier than expected.

Still, she recognized the vitality of the industry, reportedly worth $5 billion each year to the state economy.

Trade officials reported nearly 14 million visits to Colorado ski areas in the 2018-19 season, a record. Last year, Vail announced $215 million in capital improvements for its mountains — an unsurprising figure for an industry constantly expanding terrain, upgrading snowmaking, adding chairlifts, and introducing restaurants and attractions to meet swelling demand.

"It was a major downer for sure," she said.

"I would hate for that to happen again."

Heading into this Colorado ski season, the only certainty is uncertainty.

Changes have been outlined in how people will be spaced, how they'll load lifts, how they'll be allowed to warm up in lodges. Many resorts, including those owned by Vail, have announced required reservations in an effort to minimize crowds.

But the message from the governor's office remains hopeful.

In a statement to The Gazette, Polis referenced Arapahoe Basin Ski Area's nearly two-week reopening in June that came with limited capacity. "I'm confident that once again Colorado resorts will lead the way in providing a safe skiing and boarding experience in our majestic, worldclass mountains," Polis said.

Community leaders carry concerns into the season. Summit County commissioner Elisabeth Lawrence isn't so much worried about the risk of COVID-19 transmission on the mountains as she is off them.

"It's the ancillary activities," she said. "Having a drink at the bar afterward, eating at a restaurant, picking up ski rentals, etc. ... All of those can pose some danger."

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COVID-19 came with Vail postponing many of those projects. Many of its counterparts did the same this summer while counting their losses.

Base towns, meanwhile, bustled with patrons who dined outside. Winter will no doubt change those arrangements. Business will be tricky, said Eric Mamula, mayor and restaurant owner in Breckenridge.

"This is purely about survival, for all these ski communities," he said.

And, in a way, it's about the survival of the state's soul.

LOOK NO FURTHER THAN CLUBS such as the Sno-Jets for a glimpse into the life-affirming bonuses of Colorado's iconic winter pastime.

Similarly, Denver's Up the Creek Ski and Rec Club is made up of mostly retirees and people who've been hit with major life changes, people looking to be restored through skiing and the thrill and camaraderie that go with it.

Up the Creek's president, Curtis Cloutier, came to the club after his wife died in 2001.

Gratz wakes between 4 a.m. and 5 a.m. each day to study weather models and publish detailed snow summaries. One might wake just as early in anticipation of his reports, which include extended forecasts.

"My life generally revolves around seven- to 10-day cycles," Gratz said, "because if I see storms coming in those seven to 10 days, me and my wife and my 3-year-old son are making plans to chase those storms.

It is not just a business. It's personal."

" Whenever we're out on the mountains skiing, it's like, 'Whoa, this is just amazing,'" Cloutier said. “ THIS IS WHY WE LIVE IN COLORADO." Coloradans' hearts beat with the wintry blow of Mother Nature and race to wherever she sends the powder.

Boulder's Joel Gratz epitomizes the obsession bred by these Rocky Mountains. He's the meteorologist behind OpenSnow, the website and app every winter attracting 2 million visits.

Christian Murdock

Main Street in Breckenridge.

Jeff Scroggins, Vail Resorts

The Winter X Games crowd is reflected in the goggles of a competitor.

Christian Murdock

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AND IT'S NOT JUST THE SLOPES THAT MAKE RESIDENTS' SPIRITS FLUTTER WHEN THE FLAKES FLY. Some roam winter wonderlands in snowmobiles, smiling with the wind in their face. Some prefer pedaling through those glistening meadows atop two burly bike tires. Others travel in a historic manner — however few, as the 55-person membership of nonprofit Colorado Mountain Mushers suggests.

"You just hear the swish going through the snow and their paws running," says Denver's Molly Cushing, imagining herself on the sled again. "It's kind of like a meditation.

It's beautiful."

Others achieve solace sitting atop their favorite frozen lakes, fishing pole in hand.

And yes, winter in Colorado can inspire those apres visions of fine dining beside a fire, a sleigh ride under a silver moon. But some need no such comforts. Take, for example, Eric Larsen, the state's preeminent polar explorer.

For a man who has spent months alone on some of the most barren, exotic ice sheets of the world, the COVID-19 quarantine wasn't so startling.

"Dealing with uncertainty and isolation isn't really a new thing for me," he said.

It was not being able to travel that maimed his psyche. Not being able to be out there in those frozen places.

“Not being able to go and do what I do,” Larsen said. “My whole sense of purpose goes downhill pretty quickly when that happens.”

Just about everyone these days has had more time than they’d like to reflect on purpose. That goes for members of Denver's Up the Creek Club, who like every American have endured a time not only of pandemic, but of social and political upheaval.

Summer in the West also came with disastrous fires.

"My personal opinion," Cloutier said, "is what the great philosopher Billy Joel once said: 'The world's been burning as long as the world's been turning.' Well, it's doing a little more burning than most years."

A snowmaker adjusts the direction of a snowmaking fan at Arapahoe Basin. The Summit County ski area is always among the first to open for the season. I Christian Murdock

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IT'LL BE A DIFFERENT WINTER FOR THE CLUB. None of the usual parties. No dancing at the annual ski trip in Steamboat Springs. Trips are still planned, though logistics will be different.

But some things haven't changed.

"Everybody's ready to go skiing," Cloutier said.

And that's perhaps more than ever. â–

The 2020/2021 season takes on heightened importance for ski towns such as Breckenridge after COVID-19 dealt multi-million-dollar losses across the industry this spring. "This is purely about survival, for all these ski communities," Breckenridge mayor Eric Mamula said.

OutThere Colorado

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Winter FESTIVALS & EVENTS

AROUND COLORADO

By Carlotta Olson

Editor’s note: Some in-person events might be canceled due to COVID-19. Before attending, make sure event is taking place.

NOVEMBER: Skate in the Park

DEC. 11-13: Winterfest

NOV. 17-JAN. 3: Blossoms of Light — A twinkling winter wonderland, Denver Botanic Gardens,

DEC. 12: Freezie Fest — Scavenger hunt, train rides and more,

— A fun time on the ice, Acacia Park, Colorado Springs 1007 York St., Denver

NOV. 19-DEC. 31: Santa Express Train and Holiday Rides — Royal Gorge Route Railroad, Cañon City

NOV. 20-DEC. 25: “Le Petit” L’Espirit de Noël Holiday Virtual Home Tour — To benefit Central City Opera NOV. 20-JAN. 2: The Polar Express Train Ride — Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durango

NOV. 22: Switch on the Holidays

— 5 p.m., 1300 block of Pearl Street, Boulder

NOV. 27: The Grand Illumination — Live entertainment, Santa and Mrs. Claus, and lighting of Christma tree, 5-7 p.m., Union Station, Denver

NOV. 27-29: Victorian Christmas Tours — 10 a.m.-3:30 p.m., Miramont Castle, 9 Capitol Hill, Manitou Springs, $10-$14, reservations required NOV. 27-29: Victorian Christmas Tea — 10:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m.,

and 2:30 p.m., Miramont Castle, Queen’s Parlour Tea Room, 9 Capitol Hill, Manitou Springs, $27.50-$42.50, reservations required

NOV. 27-JAN. 3: Trail of Lights — Winding path glistening

with lights, Denver Botanic Gardens, Chatfield Farms, 8500 W. Deer Creek Canyon Road, Littleton

NOV. 28-DEC. 19: St. Nick on the Bricks — 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

11 a.m.-3 p.m., Pearl Street Mall and beyond, Boulder

DEC. 12: Parade of Lights

— 5:30 p.m., starting at Beulah School, Beulah

DEC. 12: Winter Ball — Crowning of winter king and queen, live music and more, 8-11 p.m., Eck’s Saloon, Lakewood, $15-$25, tickets required DEC. 13: Yule Log Festival — 1 p.m., Pueblo Mountain Park Pavilion, Beulah DEC. 19-31: 12 Days of Aspen — Holiday activities, treats and Santa, Aspen JAN. 14-17: Wintersköl Celebration — Toast to winter with concerts, mountain activities, torchlight descent and more, Aspen JAN. 16-17: Winter Festival — Beer samples, food vendors, live music and more, Estes Park JAN. 16-17: Big Mountain Betty Fest Weekend

— For experienced female skiers and riders, high intermediate and above, with two guided days of skiing and one heli drop, Silverton Mountain

JAN. 16-20: Winter Soul Fest

— Ski parties, music and more, The Village at Breckenridge, tickets required

JAN. 21-24: Ice Festival

— Presentations by climbers, music, food and more, Ouray

Saturdays, Boulder Visitor Center, 1303 Pearl St., Boulder

JAN. 22-24: Winterfest

DEC. 4-5: 9News Parade of Lights — Downtown Denver DEC. 4-6: Fire Festival — Music, outdoor fire sculpture garden

JAN. 23: Winter Brew Fest

and more, Telluride

DEC. 4-JAN. 1: Electric Safari — 5:30-8:30 p.m. Dec. 4-6, Dec. 11-23, Dec. 25 and Jan. 1, with last admission at 7:30 p.m., Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, 4250 Cheyenne Mountain Zoo Road, Colorado Springs, tickets required DEC. 5: Christmas Stroll

— Carolers, holiday fun and more, 5-8 p.m. Old Colorado City

DEC. 5: Festival of Lights Parade — 5:50 p.m., downtown Colorado Springs DEC. 5: Tree Lighting — 5 p.m., Limbach Park, Front Street,

Monument. Donations of canned food to benefit Tri-Lakes Cares and toys or gifts to benefit Santa on Patrol being accepted

DEC. 5: Lights of December Parade

— 6 p.m., starts at 15th and Walnut streets, Boulder

DEC. 5: 1940s W hite Christmas Ball — Doors open at 3:30 p.m., Hyatt Regency Downtown Convention Center, Denver, tickets required

DEC. 5: Tree Lighting — Limbach Park, Front Street, Monument DEC. 5: Lighting of Breckenridge and Race of the Santas — Breckenridge DEC. 9:: Electric Moonlight — For adults only, 5:30-8:30 p.m.,

— San Juan River’s Penguin Plunge, downhill sled race and more, Pagosa Springs — Music, vendors and more, Mile High Station, Denver

JAN. 28-31: X Games Aspen

— Action sports and music festival, Buttermilk Mountain, Aspen

JAN. 29-31: UllrGrass

— Music, beer fest, vendors and more, Golden

JAN. 29-31: Rio Frio Ice Fest — Scavenger hunts, snowman-building contests, fire-and-ice party and more, Alamosa

JAN. 29-FEB. 7: Viewing of Snow Sculptures — Temporary snow art installations placed throughout the Breckenridge community

FEB. 3-4: Winter Carnival

— Snow sculpting, ski jumping, slalom and more, Steamboat Springs

FEB. 6: Wine and Chocolate Festival — Estes Park FEB. 12-14: Midwinter Bluegrass Festival — Northglenn Ramada

Plaza, Denver

FEB. 19-21: WinterWonderGrass

— Music, brews, local foods and more, Steamboat Springs

MARCH 6: W hiskey Warm Up

— A winter tradition of warming up from the inside out, Estes Park

Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, 4250 Cheyenne Mountain Road, Colorado Springs,

MARCH 6-7: Ski Joring Festival — Horse and rider will pull a skier

DEC. 9-11: Ullr Fest

MARCH 28: Clauson Classic — Hike as many Tiger Claws as you

tickets required

— Horned skiing Vikings, bonfire and more, Breckenridge 8

— Ice skating, marketplace and more, Carpenter Park Fields, Thornton

at a fast pace through a course that has gates, jumps and rings, Leadville can, and you will get a prize at the end of the day, Silverton

COVID CLAUSE WINTER ADVENTURE LIKELY TO LOOK DIFFERENT IN 2020

By Seth Boster

ANY DREAM OF COLORADO SNOW THIS SEASON UNFORTUNATELY WILL WAKE TO A WORLD IN WHICH COVID-19 STILL EXISTS. THIS IS A REALITY OF WHICH THE STATE TOURISM OFFICE IS ACUTELY AWARE. “While on-mountain activities tend to be naturally socially distant,” said office spokeswoman Abby Leeper Gibson, “it’s important that travelers are protected throughout their experience, from renting gear to apres ski.”

Winter, she said, “comprises an important segment for Colorado tourism." It might take heightened importance now, considering the ski industry’s multi-million-dollar losses from a spring season cut short.

But the usual international clientele is not expected to be nearly as substantial for that industry this winter. Leeper Gibson said the state is marketing only to residents.

Her office is spreading a new message: “responsible tourism,” she said — “showing care” to residents and visitors alike and abiding by local health guidelines.

Here's what to expect when traveling to the high country: SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING Uniformly across the slopes, regulations entail social distancing, loading chairlifts with only related members of your party, required face coverings and restrictions in lodges.

"Yes, there will be new procedures this winter," as Aspen Skiing Co. president and CEO Mike Kaplan wrote in a letter to customers, "and a handful of the exuberant social activities we are famous for will be greatly subdued."

Procedures include reservation systems aimed at cutting crowds, like the one Vail Resorts has laid out for regulars of the company's flagship resort along with Breckenridge, Keystone, Beaver Creek and Crested Butte.

In a video message to pass holders, company CEO Rob Katz said the system could be axed if deemed unnecessary.

"But it would be a lot easier to remove the reservation system than to put one in mid-season," he said.

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Vail has expressed confidence in Coloradans getting to ski when they want to ski — a hope partly based on the expectation of fewer foreigners traveling to the state. Nonetheless, pass holders heading into the season were preparing for headaches, similar to those induced

by Arapahoe Basin's reservation system that was overwhelmed during the ski area's brief reopening in May and June.

While Ikon Pass holders heading to A-Basin will have to make reservations, it won't be required for the ski area's exclusive pass holders or single-day customers — though, the number of those tickets will be limited.

Monarch Mountain is among several other ski areas to also announce reducing day passes to control numbers. In a letter to customers, general manager Randy Stroud recalled a popular phrase: "It takes two to tango."

One request was for regulars to become "weekday warriors."

"We will do everything in our power to make sure we have set the stage for the season to be successful," Stroud wrote, "but we will need you, our guest, to be a part of this success as well."

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Upon reopening briefly in May and June, Arapahoe Basin enacted new operating procedures for guests.

The Associated Press

BACKCOUNTRY ADVENTURE

OUTFITTERS AND ATTRACTIONS

When ski areas closed this spring, enthusiasts strapped on touring gear and earned their turns in the mountains without chairlifts.

From guided trips on snowmobiles to Christmas-themed train rides to excursions on horse-drawn sleighs, many providers of Colorado’s signature activities had yet to announce winter plans as October began.

Parking lots quickly filled at destinations such as Berthoud and Loveland passes. Drivers parked along highway shoulders, forming long lines and risking tickets. The surge was troubling enough for San Juan County to make the unprecedented, controversial decision to ban outsiders from its backcountry.

And a disturbing toll ticked on.

Between March 14 and April 28, Colorado Avalanche Information Center tallied 31 people caught in slides and two killed.

"That is a lot for that time period," the center's director, Ethan Greene, said. "That definitely felt like an increase to us."

It is a grim reality intertwined with recent trends. In 2018, Snowsports Industries America received data from retailmonitoring NPD Group that showed year-to-year alpine touring skis, boots and bindings up 24%. Over the decade, NPD Group has reported sales for the gear quadrupling.

Individual retailers this year already are reporting record sales for the equipment, suggesting "ski mountaineering is ready to go mainstream," as the U.S. Ski Mountaineering Association recently declared.

That has land managers and search and rescue teams on edge approaching winter, especially with ski areas limiting their visitation.

"If there are more people recreating in the backcountry on avalanche terrain, the chances for avalanche accidents go up," Greene said. "We may see more accidents. I really hope we don't see more deaths. We're going to be doing everything we can to make sure that doesn't happen."

That'll start with communication, he said. Encouraging people to be prepared, equipped with shovels and beacons at the least; to sign up for avalanche safety classes; and to check daily risk forecasts at avalanche.state.co.us

An employee is protected by a plexiglass shield while processing a skier during the May reopening of Arapahoe Basin Ski Area.

Christian Murdock

"We are anticipating opening," said Frisco assistant town manager Diane McBride, who oversees the town's beloved tubing hill. "That's knowing of course that everything could change depending on public health guidelines."

McBride expected the family attraction to open by Thanksgiving weekend. Tubing at Frisco Adventure Park every winter draws about 70,000 people, she said — and that could be more this year.

"With the ski areas limiting capacities and a variety of different things, we really do think folks are going to be looking for alternative activities to do," she said.

"We think tubing is going to be one of those activities."

Another might be cross-country skiing or snowshoeing with friends and family through powder-packed woods to a series of cozy huts and yurts. In August, 10th Mountain Division Hut Association announced suspending reservations while reworking its system to reflect COVID-19 changes, which include a smaller number of people in a single party.

The state's highest hut system, Hinsdale Haute Route in the San Juan Mountains, has kept one of its two bases closed "due to public health orders and our inability to sanitize between guests." Near Pagosa Springs, managers of the Pass Creek Yurt have announced cutting back on reservations.

That's all fairly representative of operating changes across the tourism landscape this winter.

The season is prime time for resting weary bones in geothermal waters. But those visions of relaxation could come with inconveniences — however minor, commercial operators hope.

At Mount Princeton Hot Springs near Buena Vista, for example, they've hoped for low wait times for guests, who've been allowed into limited-capacity pools on a first-come, first-served basis. The policy has been similar at Glenwood Hot Springs.

Meanwhile, at Steamboat's famous Strawberry Park Hot Springs, soakers have had to make online reservations for two-hour slots. To the south, Valley View Hot Springs has only been accepting overnight guest bookings 30 days in advance. ■ OutThere Colorado

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ALL OF YOUR WINTER DREAMS CAN COME TRUE IN STEAMBOAT SPRINGS. Just ask the locals, who know how ambitions here burn hottest when the temperature drops.

This is Ski Town, USA, a title based on Steamboat's claim of producing more winter Olympians than any other North American town. The history is proudly represented by Howelsen Hill, the longest-continuing facility of its kind on the continent. Carl Howelsen, the Norwegian immigrant who established the hill in 1914, would be proud of today's massive jumps that go unrivaled in the West.

The pros of tomorrow train on the hill and at Steamboat Resort, which covers six mountains as one of Colorado's biggest ski areas. Many appreciate how downtown is removed from the resort, different from a lot of ski communities where both busy sectors mesh.

Happy hours abound in town.

Whether it’s barbecue, pizza and beer, or a glitzy apres splurge, the soul will be satisfied.

One need not depend on the slopes to make memories in Steamboat.

WINTER

SPOTLIGHT

STEAMBOAT SPRINGS

By Seth Boster

A statue of Olympian Billy Kidd.

A rider flies down the mountain coaster at Steamboat Resort.

Photos by Christian Murdock

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Seek ultimate rejuvenation

Take to the sky

NO TRIP TO THIS PART OF THE STATE IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A STOP AT STRAWBERRY PARK HOT SPRINGS.

WILD WEST BALLOON ADVENTURES CARRIES ON A TRADITION STARTED MORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO BY LONGTIME RESIDENT IAN COX, WHO KNEW THE BEST WAY TO SEE THIS MOUNTAINOUS VALLEY WAS FROM THE BASKET OF A HOT AIR BALLOON.

And winter is the perfect time as the frigid air counters nicely with the steamy, mineral waters.

Strawberry Park delivers on a variety of soaking preferences, between modern-day pools and more naturally defined dips, and between temperatures ranging from mild to 100-plus degrees.

It's an unforgettable moment when Steamboat's classic champagne powder dusts the surrounding forest.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Strawberry Park has been requiring reservations for two-hour soaking slots. Day access has not been guaranteed for overnight guests, who book rustic cabins and train cabooses and go au naturel at night in the pools.

Fellow pilots know the view to be even better in winter’s embrace. So Wild West launches all 12 months, taking families up in the early mornings when conditions are right.

The colorful balloons are the envy of onlookers from the ground.

Adult groups are treated with a champagne celebration, in honor of that sparkling powder covering the land.

Enjoy the playground

Chase a waterfall

THE POSSIBILITIES OPEN UP WITH THE VIEWS ALONG RABBIT EARS PASS SOUTHEAST OF TOWN. IT'S ONE OF THE STATE'S MORE SCENIC MOUNTAIN DRIVES.

WHETHER IT'S ROARING WITH SNOWMELT DOWN STEEP CANYON WALLS OR FROZEN IN PLACE, FISH CREEK FALLS IS PHOTOGENIC IN ALL SEASONS.

The snowshoeing from trailheads along the road is widely heralded. Otherwise, one can stick closer to town on the Emerald Mountain trail system — popular, too, for fat bikes.

Steamboat's commitment to cycling goes year-round, and shops around town have snow-ready rides to rent for the uninitiated.

It's found a short drive from downtown, a wild scene easily accessible. From the viewing platform in winter, one might spectate as ice climbers ascend the nearly 300-foot cascade in its silver-blue glory.

MAYBE YOU'VE SEEN COLORADO'S NATIONAL PARKS IN THE SUMMER. MAYBE YOU'VE NOTICED THE CROWDING THAT TENDS TO TAKE PLACE.

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It's a whole new world in the winter, both in terms of visitation and in the nature worthy of the highest federal protection.

Colorado

national parks & monuments MADE FOR

WINTER

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Word has spread about this remote expanse, so much so that recent numbers show it to be the state's fastest-growing national park in terms of visitation.

We found hardly anyone around during a winter stop in 2018. Visitation was such that the park didn't find it sensible to keep someone staffed in the fee kiosk. Someone was, however, available in the visitor center to offer tips and check out snowshoes. We strapped some on and embarked on the Oak Flat Trail, a quick tour along the canyon's edge — a fine way to appreciate Black Canyon's winter facial.

Snow streaks the cracks and crevices of this vertical world, accentuating its glory. A park brochure tells you to take in "The Song of the Gunnison," the symphony of silence consisting of water, wind and occasional falcon calls.

Colorado National Monument

On the Western Slope, locals look to what they call "the Monument" for inspiration. The mighty rock formations stretch across the sky, painted new colors with every rising and setting sun.

By Seth Boster

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And the Monument is "even more magical in the winter," promises Grand Junction's visitors bureau.

"The red sandstone cliffs take on an entirely new feel under a fresh dusting of snow or frost," reads the bureau’s website. "Covered in a blanket of white or crystallized dew, bits of red emerge to create a surreal desert experience."

Without the summer tourists, the Monument returns to local rule in winter, with parking more reliable at trailheads of choice.

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The 23-mile stretch of Rim Rock Drive is a photographer's dream. It runs through canyon walls and climbs above, where the array of colors is on full display.

Rocky Mountain

It was a different summer at Colorado's crown jewel.

To limit crowds amid the coronavirus pandemic, visitors had to vie for advanced reservations.

The crowds don't stop in winter. Though, the crowd is different, a heartier bunch who don't mind the cold and deep snow. Yes, the sight of those jagged peaks is more appreciated when earned, these types know. And the solitude is indeed greater this time of year.

" Welcome to the winter wonderland of the sub-alpine forest," we once overheard a guide say on a snowshoeing trip.

This was from Bear Lake. The reasons for its summer popularity — easy access and a gateway to deeper adventure — make it popular, too, for snowshoers and cross-country skiers.

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MAKE SOME MEMORABLE TRACKS

These 3 snowshoe routes in Rocky Mountain National Park will not disappoint

By Tasha Heilweil

IF YOU’RE DREAMING OF SNOW AND STARTING TO PLAN YOUR WINTER ADVENTURES, Rocky Mountain National Park is an amazing playground for those willing to bundle up. Peaks appear larger when they're covered in snow, and forests seem more expansive.

Maybe it’s because each step on snowshoes takes a bit more effort. Here are three of the more scenic routes in the park:

Gem Lake Distance: 3.6 miles

For a mellow (but still substantial) hike, try this trail accessed via Lumpy Ridge Trailhead. While quite busy in summer and fall, it's less traveled in winter. The hike includes steep switchbacks and sections that meander through forest. The lake itself is small and sits beneath layered granite cliffs whose dark minerals provide a dramatic backdrop. Directions: Park at Lumpy Ridge Trailhead. From the lot, head right on the Gem Lake Trail. At a half mile, stay right at the Black Canyon Trail Junction and continue to Gem Lake.

Cub Lake and The Pool

A hiker snowshoes in Rocky Mountain National Park. Dave Philipps

The Atlas Montane are good, all-around snowshoes.

(Tribune News Service)

Deer Mountain

Distance: 6 miles

Distance: 6.2 miles

These trails combine to form a stunning snowshoe route.

A 2012 wildfire burned much of the area around Cub Lake, but the bare trees that line the trail make for a hauntingly beautiful scene. Be sure to check out the frozen waterfalls along the trail.

For a strenuous, half-day hike, trek to the summit of Deer Mountain. The peak tops out at 10,013 feet so the weather at the summit tends to be less predictable (though be sure to check forecasts ahead of time, as storms can come in quickly and create dangerous conditions). Declare victory when you reach the top and take in the breathtaking views of the Continental Divide.

Directions: Start at the Cub Lake Trailhead. At a half mile, stay right at the South Lateral Moraine Trail Junction and continue on the Cub Lake Trail. At 2.3 miles, avoid the small trail leading to the Cub Creek Backcountry Campsites and stay on the main trail to reach Cub Lake. About 0.2 miles past the lake, stay right at the Hollowell Park Trail Junction and continue to The Pool. Follow the Fern Lake Trail back to where you parked.

Directions: Park at Deer Ridge Trailhead. Head east from the lot on the Deer Mountain Trail. At 2.9 miles, the trail to the peak veers right. Continue to the summit.

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A perfect winter

Trip

ROAD

Start in a ‘garden fit for the gods’

This journey begins in COLORADO SPRINGS, where the OutThere Colorado team is headquartered. There’s no better way to start a winter road trip around the state than with an early-morning visit to the iconic Garden of the Gods Park.

The park's gates open at 5 a.m., and visitors are not likely to encounter large crowds until at least mid-morning.

The hours for the visitor center are 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, with closing time pushed back two hours Friday through Sunday.

Don’t skip the doughnuts As this route travels westward toward ski country on U.S. 24, drivers will pass through the tiny mountain town of Woodland Park. When it comes to late-morning breakfast spots, THE DONUT MILL is tough to beat.

All sorts of delicious pastries await, including cinnamon rolls that measure about a foot in diameter.

Wave to 'Frog Rock' We won’t say exactly where this landmark is — spotting it is part of the fun — but look for this unique rock formation along the stretch of U.S. 24 between Divide and Florissant.

"FROG ROCK" is a large boulder on the right side of the road that’s often painted green. The first person in your vehicle to spot it and say “Ribbit” gets to pick the next song.

16 OTC Winter Guide

around

Take in a panoramic view The summit of WILKERSON PASS provides a stunning look at several 14,000-foot peaks among Colorado’s Sawatch Range. Find a key at the welcome center or download a smartphone app such as PeakVisor prior to the trip to identify various mountains on the horizon.

Go bison spotting Just past HARTSEL, drivers will turn from U.S. 24 onto Colorado 9. At this point, some lucky passersby will be able to spot bison from the junction depending on where they are roaming that day. There’s even a pull-off that makes for an ideal spot to take a photo if the herd happens to be near the road.

Spend time in ‘South Park’ A small town nestled in the foothills below massive peaks, it’s easy to see why many think the popular adult animated sitcom "South Park" is based on FAIRPLAY. While in town, keep an eye out for "South Park"-themed decorations and stop by the brewery or one of the local restaurants to have yourself a time.

Stand atop the Continental Divide Climbing to an elevation of 11,539 feet, Colorado 9 travels over HOOSIER PASS, located along the Continental Divide.

Stop for a photo and take in the wondrous mountain views.

colorado Grab lunch in Breckenridge The next destination on the itinerary is BRECKENRIDGE, one of Colorado’s busiest ski towns. You'll quickly discover why it's become so popular among residents and tourists alike. Pause for lunch somewhere downtown and soak in the classic atmosphere of Main Street. If you have extra time, browse some of the many chic shops.

Pick the drive to Georgetown To reach Georgetown via Interstate 70, there are two outstanding options: the scenic route through Frisco and Silverthorne and the more scenic route over LOVELAND PASS. For additional shopping and dining options, take Colorado 9 toward Frisco, spotting the scenic Dillon Reservoir along the way. For more big mountain views, take Swan Mountain Road to U.S. 6 and then climb to the 11,990-foot summit of Loveland Pass, also along the Continental Divide.

Visit Colorado’s largest brewery

By Spencer McKee

See Red Rocks in the snow After the quick detour to Golden, drivers should head south on Colorado 470 to one of America’s most iconic music venues. Stop by RED ROCKS AMPHITHEATRE in Morrison during the day to experience this incredible destination without the crowds. Visiting during winter also often means a breathtaking contrast between the red rock and the white snow.

Admire a sunset At this point, the epic one-day winter road trip is winding down. Swing through Denver for dinner or consider a quick stop at ROXBOROUGH STATE PARK. Just make sure to land in a spot where that classic Colorado sunset is visible.

Return to Colorado Springs Getting back to the Springs is as simple as hopping on I-25 for roughly an hour. As the sunlight wanes, cherish the mountain views and the memories made on another quintessential Colorado road trip.

This route continues east on I-70, where drivers eventually pass through the Golden area. One of the bigger attractions in town is the tour of the COORS BREWERY, reportedly the largest single-site brewery in the world.

Some restrictions may apply, reservations may be required, and consumption of alcohol is limited to those 21 and older. Don’t drink and drive.

OutThere Colorado

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ICEBREAKER

By Spencer McKee

OURAY “YOU’VE CLIMBED BEFORE, RIGHT?” The belayer’s question caught me off guard. I’d only climbed on real rock once before, and that was years earlier at Garden of the Gods. Now, I was standing in front of a wall of ice.

“You really just need to be comfortable jumping backwards off the wall once you’re finished,” the belayer elaborated.

Whew, that I could do, I sighed.

My belayer tied one of the ropes to my harness and offered a few tips about how to move up the ice effectively without getting hurt.

Arching my right arm, I slammed the axe against the ice. Then I kicked my left foot firmly into the frozen wall. I pushed off, lifting my body from the ground, suspended only by my foot and an axe.

I repeated these actions several times, quickly putting distance between myself and the ground below. With each “whack” that punched into the wall, I climbed higher and higher.

With more height came more difficult sections.

Often, it would take me multiple swings of an axe or kicks of a boot to find a plant I could trust.

Some axe swings would send slabs of ice falling at my face. Most of the time, I was able to tuck my helmet so that the ice hit a protected part of my head, though I immediately regretted not zipping up my jacket all the way because it soon filled like a giant ice tray.

I finally reached a point where I could take a respectable selfie (if such a thing exists).

With the photo secured, I kicked again to make the final push toward the top.

That's when I heard a snap.

18 OTC Winter Guide

I looked down with dismay, seeing the crampon on my right boot had popped off. I had no way to put it back on while on the wall so my experience was over. I belayed back to solid ground, slightly bruised and with malfunctioning equipment, but smiling.

Overall, my first time on ice was a blast. I found that ice climbing offers more freedom than rock climbing. With axes and boots that you can stick anywhere, you’re not as limited by specific handholds. That said, ice climbing was also less predictable. When you’re on a rock face, generally the rock you grab will stay put. On an ice wall, your holds can crumble away.

I recommend learning the basics at a site such as Ouray Ice Park. The Ouray Ice Climbing Festival gives novice climbers an opportunity to test gear that would cost thousands of dollars. So if you aren’t scared of heights and want to try something new, give ice climbing a shot.

Spencer McKee

Director of Content and Operations for OutThere Colorado

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things to see and do away from Colorado ski slopes this winter

1. Take a scenic drive

Winter looks good on Colorado, FYI. And we can drink it all in from the seat of our heated vehicles.

Thanks to the state's hardworking plow drivers, several mountain passes remain open through the snowy months.

You'll want to play it safe and go when the sun is out. Look to Monarch Pass, connecting Salida and San Juan country. There in the southwest, drive the Million Dollar Highway paradise between Ouray and Silverton.

Another stunning choice is Hoosier Pass between Breckenridge and the continent's highest town of Alma. Or check to see if Pikes Peak Highway is cleared to the 14,115-foot summit.

Notice we didn't mention dreaded Interstate 70, which often resembles a parking lot on winter weekends, or Rocky Mountain National Park's Trail Ridge Road, which closes in the colder months.

By Seth Boster

2. View 'The Shining' scene So you're wanting to get a genuine, winter-bound glimpse of the place that inspired the snowy setting of Stephen King's "The Shining." Here's your chance.

The Stanley Hotel is that white symbol of elegance perched on a hill overlooking Estes Park. For an overnight, it's as pricey as it looks. But you don't have to stay to enjoy.

In recent months, visitors have been free to roam the historic grounds, lobby areas and famous bar with the whiskeys of the world. Spots for historic tours have been limited, especially for spooky nights.

3. Dash through the snow The mantelpiece photo is of you and your loved ones cuddled close with a blanket and hot chocolate, making your way through a winter wonderland in a horse-drawn, bell-jingling sleigh. Some of these rides even end with dinner by a fire.

You'll find reputed outfitters in Grand and Summit counties as well as in Durango and Steamboat Springs.

19

4. Stroll 16th Street

6. Dine in style

Chicago has its Magnificent Mile, and Denver has this mile-long stretch in the heart of downtown.

Holding off on buying a ski pass this year? Then you've got some extra coin this winter. How about treating yourself and yours to something fancy?

One similarity? The Chicago pizza. Yes, if you didn't hear, Giordano's has joined 16th Street's list of 40-plus eateries.

One difference? No motor traffic or honking taxis.

Shuttle buses run up and down the otherwise pedestrian-only mall. Couples on romantic outings have been known to hop aboard horse-drawn carriages, which are especially romantic under a gentle snowfall and through the holiday lights.

5. Hunt trolls Isak Heartstone caused quite the frenzy when he moved to Breckenridge in 2018. (He was actually built of wood there, complete with a heart-shaped rock in his chest). The troll immediately attracted hordes of human visitors and angered the human neighborhood near where he sat.

Go ahead, spoil yourself with the worldly fare and atmospheric flair that is famous to this state's mountain towns. From Aspen and Crested Butte to Telluride and Vail, you're bound to find a one-of-akind culinary experience.

Be sure to make a reservation. And, for a night, ignore the prices on that cocktail menu.

7. Cut your own Christmas tree 'Tis the season for making new traditions. Surely you made many in recent months with the whole family stuck at home. Here's another idea that'll have you channeling your inner Clark Griswold.

But since he moved closer to a downtown park last year, everyone seems to be happy. And now he's not the only troll to see in Colorado.

In Colorado Springs, folks are well familiar with fetching a conifer; they go just west to Teller County for the opportunity offered by the U.S. Forest Service along Rampart Range Road. Be on the lookout close to Thanksgiving when permits become available.

Adding to the winter magic is Halvor Flowstone.

He resides at Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, which in the winter typically offers alpine coaster rides and cave tours.

Denverites know of the Elk Creek cutting area west near Fraser or north in Red Feather Lakes. Trees usually can also be cut in White River National Forest, in areas near Dillon, Eagle and Carbondale.

20 OTC Winter Guide

8. Board a train

11. Step back in time

A steam locomotive moving through snow-draped dreamscapes is a classic scene of the holidays in Colorado. Although COVID-19 could change things, several of the state's railroads were listing winter specials on their calendar.

Some 1,400 years ago, the Ancestral Puebloans scraped a living in what is now the Four Corners region of America. They dry farmed and built complex living quarters beneath the natural shelter of cliff s. And still today at Mesa Verde National Park, about 35 miles from Durango, those dwellings can be viewed.

In Golden, Colorado Railroad Museum planned its "Polar Express"-themed ride around the yard — inviting families to wear pajamas and enjoy hot chocolate and cookies while actors sing and dance. In Cañon City, Royal Gorge Route Railroad was booking holiday dinners and a tour through the stunning landmark, which becomes the North Pole in winter. That's also the destination on the festive Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad that weaves through the San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado.

9. Shop and score Look no further than the Outlets of Silverthorne for your Christmas shopping base. All of your favorite brands meet in one place — Nike, Columbia, J.Crew, Coach, you name it — and you can count on discounts.

If the holiday stress mounts, simply step outside for a creek-side bench and the views of Summit County's rolling peaks. And, if by some chance you don't find what you need here at the outlets, you can always skip over to the local shops of Frisco and Breckenridge.

For those desiring to stay on the Front Range, check out the Outlets at Castle Rock or Park Meadows in nearby Lone Tree.

While tours aren't led in winter, the cliff dwellings can be seen and admired from a distance, the snow a quiet reminder of this history surviving the test of time.

Be sure to drive the Mesa Top Loop, what the park calls "a step back in time."

12. Skate away It's not clear which of Colorado's typical ice skating venues will be available in the coming months. In non-pandemic years, the options have been plenty.

West of Denver, families have traditionally gathered at the Zamboni-groomed rink at Evergreen Lake, spacious at 8.5 acres and set against the town's hilly backdrop. The rink usually has opened in December, same for rinks at several of the state's other postcard-image mountain towns, including Estes Park, Lake City and Pagosa Springs.

Downtown ice skating is a seasonal staple in Denver and Colorado Springs. Several ski resorts have frozen ponds and rinks, including Keystone, Beaver Creek and Winter Park.

10. Catch a thrill As ski resorts everywhere invest more into yearround attractions, making base areas look more like amusement parks, these roller coaster-type rides have been a big focus. The mountain coaster revolution is in full swing in Colorado.

Families hop in carts equipped with levers that are pushed or pulled to control speed.

Steamboat Resort claims the longest track, zooming and dipping and curving for more than 6,000 linear feet. Other coasters swoosh through forests at Copper Mountain and Snowmass.

Breckenridge also has a coaster, which, like the others, has been open in winter depending on weather.

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Winter IN COLORADO

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Winter IN COLORADO

johnstown

estes park

grand lake

silverthorne

BRING ON THE SNOW. BRING ON THE COLD. BRING ON THE FUN.

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denver

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fruita

salida

GRAND LAKE

Power through the powder 

FRUITA

Fat tire mecca year-round

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PAGOSA SPRINGS

DENVER

Holiday lights in full bloom ­

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ALAMOSA

Beach vacation near home 

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22 OTC Winter Guide

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COLORADO SPRINGS

Soak all your worries away

ouray

CANON CITY

Far from garden variety

Colorado Springs

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25

OURAY

Coolest sport in Colorado All aboard for holiday fun

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breckenridge

WALDEN

Best bet to spot Bullwinkle

canon city

alamosa

pagosa springs

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STEAMBOAT SPRINGS

Bird's-eye view of beauty 

DINOSAUR

Take a step back in time 

JOHNSTOWN

Legendary sweet treats

WINTER IN THIS STATE IS FULL OF PROMISE. IT ALWAYS HAS BEEN.

There are thousands of acres devoted to skiing and snowboarding, with some of the best powder in the world.

But the cold-weather options go far beyond the slopes.

This map provides a broad look at a few of the things that make Colorado's winters so special. So get out there and discover some of what this great state has to offer.



SALIDA

Backcountry ticket to fun 

ESTES PARK

I ain't afraid of no ghost 

SILVERTHORNE

Why ski when you can shop 

BRECKENRIDGE

14,000 feet the hard way

OutThere Colorado

I

23

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walden

dinosaur

Winter IN COLORADO

steamboat springs

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Winter IN COLORADO

johnstown

estes park

grand lake

silverthorne

BRING ON THE SNOW. BRING ON THE COLD. BRING ON THE FUN.

Â

76



denver



70

fruita

salida

GRAND LAKE

Power through the powder 

FRUITA

Fat tire mecca year-round



PAGOSA SPRINGS

DENVER

Holiday lights in full bloom ­

€

ALAMOSA

Beach vacation near home 

‚

Â

22 OTC Winter Guide





Â

Â?

COLORADO SPRINGS

Soak all your worries away

ouray

CANON CITY

Far from garden variety

Colorado Springs

 

25

OURAY

Coolest sport in Colorado All aboard for holiday fun

  Â?  Â? Â

breckenridge

WALDEN

Best bet to spot Bullwinkle

canon city

alamosa

pagosa springs



STEAMBOAT SPRINGS

Bird's-eye view of beauty 

DINOSAUR

Take a step back in time 

JOHNSTOWN

Legendary sweet treats

WINTER IN THIS STATE IS FULL OF PROMISE. IT ALWAYS HAS BEEN.

There are thousands of acres devoted to skiing and snowboarding, with some of the best powder in the world.

But the cold-weather options go far beyond the slopes.

This map provides a broad look at a few of the things that make Colorado's winters so special. So get out there and discover some of what this great state has to offer.



SALIDA

Backcountry ticket to fun 

ESTES PARK

I ain't afraid of no ghost 

SILVERTHORNE

Why ski when you can shop 

BRECKENRIDGE

14,000 feet the hard way

OutThere Colorado

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23

PRIMER A CLOSER LOOK AT MAJOR SKI AREAS IN COLORADO OPENING DATES FOR 2020/21 SKI SEASON Arapahoe Basin  Mid-October Aspen Highlands  Dec. 12 Aspen Mountain  Nov. 26 Beaver Creek  Nov. 25 Breckenridge  Nov. 13 Buttermilk  Dec. 18 Cooper  TBA Copper Mountain  Nov. 30 Crested Butte  Nov. 25 Echo Mountain  TBA Eldora  Nov. 23 Granby Ranch  TBA Hesperus  TBA Howelsen Hill  TBA Keystone  Nov. 6 Loveland  Mid- to late-October Monarch  Nov. 20 Powderhorn  Nov. 27 Purgatory  Nov. 21 Silverton  Dec. 26 Snowmass  Nov. 26 Steamboat  Nov. 21 Sunlight  Dec. 11 Telluride  Nov. 26 Vail  Nov. 20 Winter Park  Nov. 18 Wolf Creek  TBA

Skiing preview by Seth Boster pages 25-33

NOTE: Dates are subject to change, pending conditions. Check individual resorts for official opening date information.

ARAPAHOE BASIN

ASPEN MOUNTAIN

ARAPAHOE BASIN SKI AREA IS KNOWN AS “THE LEGEND.” That’s due to its long season — with more operating days than any other ski area in Colorado.

ASPEN MOUNTAIN IS AN ADRENALINE-FUELING OUTPOST FOR WELL-TRAVELED ENTHUSIASTS. Also known by its old name, Ajax, the mountain is considered “a terrain smorgasbord” in a relatively small area. Though compact, capable visitors should find room to operate in the bowls and glades that lend a true backcountry feel.

This makes longtime executive Alan Henceroth happy for obvious business reasons. But also, on the opening day of the 2017-18 season, he was found reflecting on simple pleasures. “I just like walking around and chitchatting with everybody. I see a lot of old friends.”

A high-speed gondola rises up the mountain that’s laden with famously steep runs such as Silver Queen.

Local powder hounds are familiar with the phrase “face to six”; when they hear it, they know it’s time to board Chair 6 and take turns at the Dumps, featuring thin woods and open fields. Others hit runs called Walsh’s, Hyrup’s or Kristi’s on the east side. All of those end at the lift to Gentleman’s Ridge, where a day is capped with a long shot down Jackpot.

That tight-knit quality is what makes A-Basin special in resort-packed Summit County. And to be sure: the ski area is serious about its locals and loyalists. That was evident in 2019, when the decision was made to leave the Epic Pass in an attempt to cut crowds.

The ski area’s newest terrain is the Beavers and Steep Gullies, featuring open bowl skiing and serious glades.

Its newest eatery is Il Rifugio, considered the highest dining option in ski country at about 12,500 feet.

The best bet for families is on the upper mountain’s corduroy. Ruthie’s Run is a favorite, a cruiser with splendid views.

Skiable terrain: 1,428 acres Trails: 147 // Lifts: 6 Mountain stats: 13,050-foot summit, 10,780-foot base

Skiable terrain: 675 acres Trails: 76 // Lifts: 8 Mountain stats: 11,211-foot summit, 7,945-foot base

 Check out: 6th Alley Bar and Grill at base; Snake River Saloon and Steakhouse in Keystone; Broken Compass Brewing in Breckenridge

 Check out: Bonnies on mountain for breakfast; Ajax Tavern at base for apres eats; Aspen Brewing Co.

ASPEN HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS BOASTS THE SECOND MOST TERRAIN OF ASPEN’S FOUR SKI AREAS. The good news is it doesn't draw nearly the crowds of the biggest, Snowmass.

Locals claim Highlands as their territory, and even the most expert among them can be humbled. Double black diamond runs coat the majority of the mountain.

Most heralded is the Highland Bowl, reached on foot, which speaks to the do-it-yourself character of Highlands as a whole. The hike to the bowl follows a ridge, where the breathtaking views are punctuated by the postcard Maroon Bells.

Aspen’s website says the hike takes 20 minutes and warns: “Colorado’s premier in-bound terrain is not for the faint of heart, but it is certainly unlike anything else in the Rockies.” Another good bet for powder is in the Temerity area, defined by steep glades.

Skiable terrain: 1,040 acres Trails: 144 // Lifts: 5 Mountain stats: 12,392-foot summit, 8,040-foot base

 Check out: Breakfast at Poppycock’s; Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro on mountain; wine at Element 47

Aspen Mountain: Christian Murdock

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BEAVER CREEK

BUTTERMILK

BEAVER CREEK IS A CORNERSTONE OF VAIL RESORTS’ PORTFOLIO, EXEMPLIFYING THE COMPANY’S PRIDE IN NOTHING BUT THE FINEST.

BUTTERMILK IS THE SMALLEST OF ASPEN’S FOUR SKI AREAS. It’s the one for freestyle enthusiasts. It’s also good for newbies. So, it makes sense why the Aspen conglomerate calls Buttermilk “one mountain with two personalities.”

This plush, alpine retreat off Interstate 70 features an apres-packed village at its center. Though seeming exclusive, there’s a bigger club of vert seekers that fit right in.

They go for fresh powder while most guests stick to the groomers. What some call black diamond and double black diamond extreme terrain has gone by “EX” according to insiders. Stone Creek Chutes has rocks to huck, the Royal Elk Glades has tight trees to navigate and the Birds of Prey run is meant for serious downhill skiers.

But the resort’s commitment to novices is exemplified

by Red Buffalo Park, a 200-acre area that opened on the mountain’s highest elevations in 2017. Here visitors find themselves with some of the best views around.

The long, wide runs called Gold Dust and Latigo are intermediate favorites.

Skiable terrain: 1,832 acres Trails: 150 // Lifts: 23 Mountain stats: 11,440-foot summit, 8,100-foot base

 Check out: Doughnuts and coffee at Northside Kitchen; Blue Moose for pizza; wine at Vin48

BRECKENRIDGE IN BRECKENRIDGE, RUGGED HISTORY MEETS MODERN LUXURY. Old buildings and new condos frame Main Street, with the backdrop being the Tenmile Range that is home to one of the world’s most famous winter destinations. Now skiers and riders flock here in place of the gold miners from centuries ago.

Whether you seek steeps, powder stashes or mellow groomers, this place has it. The resort’s five peaks cater to all skill sets. And now regulars delight in a longer season, with Breck recently upgrading its snowmaking to extend the fun through Memorial Day. Some of the more beloved terrain is on Peak 8, which hosted the resort’s first trails in 1961. Peak 7 appeals to intermediate skiers and riders, and its base is an apres setting of lodges and upscale restaurants.

Skiable terrain: 2,908 acres Trails: 187 // Lifts: 34 Mountain stats: 12,998-foot summit, 9,600-foot base

Check out: Crepes a la Cart; Sancho Tacos; Breckenridge Distillery 26 OTC Winter Guide

Knowing it’s home to the vaunted Winter X Games, visitors looking to get their ski legs under them might shy away from Buttermilk. But they don’t have to, with a significant portion of the terrain defined by rollers.

Tiehack on the east side of Buttermilk has been growing in popularity with the growing uphill skiing movement. Hikers pick up about 1,700 feet in 2 miles and earn their turns indeed. But it’s the terrain parks that put Buttermilk on the map. One can spend a whole day exploring the main park, with jumps and rails spotting a 2-mile stretch.

Skiable terrain: 470 acres Trails: 44 // Lifts: 8 Mountain stats: 9,900-foot summit, 7,870-foot base

 Check out: Cliff House Restaurant on mountain; Home Team BBQ at base; Woody Creek Tavern

COOPER FROM ITS DAYS AS A TRAINING SITE FOR THE 10TH MOUNTAIN DIVISION DURING WORLD WAR II, COOPER HASN’T GROWN MUCH. Though, any skiers previously overlooking the local hill near Leadville had their attention turned in 2020, when 70 more acres were unveiled. Tennessee Creek Basin adds a new dimension to Cooper, otherwise an ideal place to learn.

The backside is tree- and mogul-laden with double black diamond runs that go by Maverick, Viper and Needle’s Eye. Be prepared to take a T-bar; it’s the only way out.

From the front side, the 10th Mountain double chair leads to the top and a host of green- and bluerated runs. Cooper trusts you’ll appreciate the comparatively low ticket prices. And the low to no wait times.

And the all-natural terrain — no snowmaking required at an altitude beginning near 10,500 feet.

Skiable terrain: 470 acres Trails: 60 // Lifts: 5 Mountain stats: 11,700-foot summit, 10,500-foot base

 Check out: Coffee at City on a Hill in Leadville; historic Silver Dollar Saloon in town; Tennessee Pass Nordic Center & Sleep Yurts

COPPER MOUNTAIN

ECHO MOUNTAIN

BLESSED BY THE WINTRY WINDS BLOWING WEST OF THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE, FOUR WORLDCLASS SKI RESORTS SHARE COMPETITIVE SPACE IN SUMMIT COUNTY. In separating itself from Arapahoe Basin, Breckenridge and Keystone, Copper Mountain touts its geographic arrangement.

LESS THAN AN HOUR WEST OF DENVER, THE SKI AREA AT ECHO MOUNTAIN HAS LIVED MANY LIVES. Overseers are counting on this one to be the fullest.

In the 1960s, it was Squaw Pass Ski Area, one of the more popular places for practice and post-work turns before Eisenhower Tunnel opened and connected Denverites to Summit County. From 2012 until former owners declared bankruptcy in 2016, the area was private and frequented by racers. Now the hope is to appeal to people wanting to avoid the hassle and traffic of large resorts — and to people wanting to learn.

Green and blue runs are naturally divided so that they don’t intersect expert terrain. Even Harry Dunne could figure it out — the “Dumb and Dumber” character was seen here in the 1994 film’s ski scenes.

Beginners typically cluster in the resort’s West Village, where the ski and ride school is based. The East Village is made up mostly of black runs and is also home to the U.S. Ski Team Speed Center. Experts should be satisfied by bowls and high-alpine runs with stunning views of the Gore and Tenmile ranges. Tubing, ice skating and dog sledding are also available.

Another attempt at standing out has been by offering night skiing. Advanced tickets online recently were listed at $30 for adults, who from 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. can lap two intermediate runs lined by lights. The terrain isn’t much — but neither is the price.

Skiable terrain: 2,490 acres Trails: 140+ // Lifts: 23 Mountain stats: 12,313-foot summit, 9,712-foot base

Skiable terrain: 60 acres Trails: 12 // Lifts: 3 Mountain stats: 10,650-foot summit, 10,050-foot base

 Check out: Maple Street Biscuit Co. in Frisco; Outer Range Brewing Co. in Frisco; Frisco Nordic Center

 Check out: Country Road Cafe in Evergreen; Beau Jo’s Pizza in Idaho Springs; Elk Meadow Park for snowshoeing

CRESTED BUTTE VAIL RESORTS ACQUIRED CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN RESORT IN 2018, LEADING LOCALS TO WONDER WHAT WOULD BECOME OF THEIR PREVIOUSLY FAMILY-OWNED SKI AREA. Would the so-called “Last Great Ski Town” maintain its rebel reputation and rugged charm? Or would Crested Butte take on the glossy, upscale aspects that make Vail’s resorts the world-renowned destinations they are?

The company has indicated it loves Crested Butte just as it is. That includes the remoteness. The steep terrain.

The multi-color bus shuttling people from town.

Downtown maintains its village-like appearance, though the victorian buildings lining Elk Avenue now house tourist staples such as clothing boutiques, candy shops and art galleries. The views are tough to rival, with the town’s namesake mountaintop slightly curling like something from Dr. Seuss’ imagination.

Skiable terrain: 1,547 acres Trails: 121 // Lifts: 15 Mountain stats: 12,162-foot summit, 9,375-foot base

 Check out: Coffee and doughnuts at Camp 4 Coffee; pizza at Secret Stash; Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum

Crested Butte: Christian Murdock

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ELDORA

GRANBY RANCH

“JUST SAY NO TO I-70” GOES THE SLOGAN AT ELDORA, SITUATED JUST OUTSIDE NEDERLAND, THE FUNKY LITTLE TOWN ON THE OTHER END OF THE CANYON FROM BOULDER. Clearly, people are saying “no” to that busy interstate and opting for what has long been described a local spot.

FAMILY-OWNED GRANBY RANCH AIMS TO EASE. Ease the headaches that come with crowds; let them gather at Winter Park 20 miles south. Ease the financial burden; adult tickets have been less than $100 in recent years. “Everything about Ski Granby Ranch is EASY,” promises the website.

Eldora’s parking lot has filled early and often — seemingly a result, too, of the ski area joining the Ikon Pass. Now outsiders swear by the snow and terrain.

The six-person, high-speed Alpenglow Express opened in 2017, granting guests quick turns and big vert before or after work. That lift zips up Challenge Mountain, the go-to for advanced skiers and riders. The confident head to the Corona Bowl, reaching double black territories of glades, steeps and cliffs.

Don’t be intimidated: Eldora prides itself for being “THE place to learn in Colorado.” The Little Hawk area is lined with green groomers.

That goes for the resort’s East Mountain terrain, the wide-open groomers where learners progress after their lessons at the base. West Mountain stocks trees, with runs such as Rimfire known to stash the occasional powder. On either side, the views of the Continental Divide are spectacular. And true to the “easy” mantra, all runs end at the base.

A Granby Ranch outing is complete with night skiing under the lights. In recent winters, operators have picked certain dates for the opportunity.

Away from the slopes, visitors take advantage of the cross-country and snowshoe trails nearby.

Skiable terrain: 680 acres Trails: 53 // Lifts: 10 Mountain stats: 10,600-foot summit, 9,360-foot base

Skiable terrain: 406 acres Trails: 38 // Lifts: 5 Mountain stats: 9,202-foot summit, 8,202-foot base

 Check out: Coffee at Train Cars; Crosscut Pizzeria and Taphouse; Eldora Nordic Center

 Check out: Hot Sulphur Springs; Mid Town Cafe for breakfast in Granby; Brickhouse 40 in town

HESPERUS SOME THINGS HAVEN'T CHANGED SINCE THE EARLY DAYS OF HESPERUS SKI AREA, TRACING TO THE 1960S. Take, for example, the all-volunteer patrol team. But competition has certainly ramped up in Colorado’s southwest region, with nearby Purgatory Resort and Telluride Resort now much bigger attractions.

Hesperus is a place to learn for Durango youngsters, and unskilled tourists might be wise to try the hill for the cheaper day pass.

For the limited terrain, the ski area claims quite a variety. Hesperus derives from the term in Greek mythology meaning “evening star.” And it’s in the evening when the ski area shines. The lights come on, and locals after work come to get their turns.

Skiable terrain: 60 acres Trails: 26 // Lifts: 1 Mountain stats: 8,888-foot summit, 8,100-foot base Hesperus: Hesperus Ski Area

28 OTC Winter Guide

 Check out: Kennebec Cafe in Hesperus; cocktails at speakeasy Bookcase and Barber in Durango; tubing at ski area

HOWELSEN HILL

KEYSTONE

NOTHING PROCLAIMS STEAMBOAT SPRINGS AS SKI TOWN, USA, LIKE THE LOCAL HILL. It’s steeped in a 105-year history, the longest going history of any ski area in the West. No such complex in North America quite compares with these jumps. Natural snow covers them, gleaming under the lights at night, and resident youngsters gaze upon it from downtown, feeling the urge to strap on the skis and continue their pursuit of being the next hotshot out of Steamboat.

AT KEYSTONE RESORT, THE OFFERINGS ARE ENDLESS. That’s from a skiing and riding standpoint and also from a dining and shopping standpoint. The resort is known for traditions, such as warm cookies and fireworks.

Kids programs cater to out-of-state families, and anyone shy of the slopes is pointed to ice skating and sleigh rides.

The biggest of Summit County’s four ski areas, Keystone spans three mountains, including a renowned terrain park. Uniquely, A51 Terrain Park promotes itself for all skill levels, with five areas of shreddable obstacles. The park is on Dercum Mountain, which features long groomers as well as rolling, intermediate runs.

The Outback is a powder haven and the resort’s highest peak. Hidden stashes and wide-open turns can be found in the North and South bowls.

Since its establishment under Norwegian immigrant Carl Howelsen, almost 90 Olympians have made the area their training ground. That’s counting 13 members of the National Ski Hall of Fame and 22 Colorado Ski Hall of Famers. The Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club, the oldest ski club this side of the Mississippi, is based here.

Tourists largely keep to the massive Steamboat Resort.

But some can’t resist the urge here.

Keystone has added a feather to its cap with stateof-the-art snowmaking technology that allows for an early-season kickoff in October.

Skiable terrain: 50 acres Trails: 16 // Lifts: 4 Mountain stats: 7,136-foot summit, 6,696-foot base

Skiable terrain: 3,148 acres Trails: 128 // Lifts: 20 Mountain stats: 12,408-foot summit, 9,280-foot base

 Check out: Nordic center near base; backcountry and cross-country skiing off Rabbit Ears Pass; Mountain Tap Brewery

 Check out: inxpot for breakfast; Snake River Saloon and Steakhouse; sleigh ride dinners

Keystone: Parker Seibold

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LOVELAND

POWDERHORN

LOVELAND SKI AREA GETS A LOT OF LOVE FROM DENVERITES, WITH THIS BEING THE METRO’S CLOSEST MAJOR VENUE FOR THE SPORT. Though that might lead to longer lift lines, crowds are manageable as vacationers don’t huddle here where there’s no lodging.

SNOW IS NOT IN THE CLASSIC PICTURE OF GRAND JUNCTION. This part of western Colorado is defined by a massive flattop mountain and by desert terrain prime for mountain biking. That, not skiing, is the famous outdoor activity of the region. Yet for five decades on the edge of Grand Mesa, Powderhorn Resort has satiated locals who crave snow like every other Coloradan.

With a base close to 10,800 feet, it’s no wonder Loveland has historically been among Colorado’s first ski areas to open.

Loveland Valley comprises the beginner and intermediate terrain that makes up half of Loveland’s total skiable acres. First-timers should hop on Chair 7 to reach All Smiles and Take Off, wide and gentle runs. Chair 3 leads to cruising slopes used by the Loveland Race Club.

As “one of the most family-friendly resorts you’ll find anywhere in the West,” 70% of Powderhorn’s terrain is meant for beginner and intermediate skiers and riders.

In 2015, the resort launched the Flat Top Flyer, the highspeed quad that takes guests to the modest top of the mountain. From there, the scenic Bill’s Run is considered a good introduction.

Loveland Basin is a hub for experienced powder hounds. The deepest, steepest stuff is found here, with Lift 4 rising to tree runs and Lift 9 taking riders to that 12,700-foot paradise of open bowls.

For something more challenging, the ski area points to Sweet Misery, considered the mountain’s best run for moguls. After a storm, regulars know to seek fresh tracks in the trees of Sven’s Bend.

Skiable terrain: 1,800 acres Trails: 94 // Lifts: 11 Mountain stats: 13,010-foot summit, 10,800-foot base

Skiable terrain: 1,600 acres Trails: 42 // Lifts: 4 Mountain stats: 9,850-foot summit, 8,200-foot base

 Check out: Loveland Grill on mountain; Tommyknocker Brewery and Pub in Idaho Springs; Alpine Restaurant and Bar in Georgetown

 Check out: Tacoparty in Grand Junction; Hot Tomato in Fruita; wine in Palisade

MONARCH

PURGATORY

MONARCH MOUNTAIN IS A FAVORITE OF SOUTHERN COLORADANS. That’s for the location of course, but also for the affordability. And also for what it represents: the antithesis of the industry beyond.

DURANGO SERVES AS THE HUB FOR ENDLESS OUTDOOR FUN IN SOUTHWEST COLORADO. Mountain bikers feast on the surrounding singletrack while baggers of 14,000-foot peaks have an array from which to choose. The scenic ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a famous summer attraction.

In the winter, Purgatory comes alive.

The ski area is without the glitz and glamour of the northern resorts that march on with development.

Monarch, meanwhile, appears trapped in time. And the ownership — a group of enthusiasts, some with deep pockets and some without — plans to keep it that way.

While many visitors are welcomed to their share of beginner runs and intermediate cruisers, experts have taken to the snowcat tours. Monarch calls Mirkwood Basin its “hidden gem,” boasting 130 acres of double black diamond terrain.

If the resort name doesn’t sound familiar, you might recall it formerly as Durango Mountain Resort. Despite the ominous title, it’s all smiles here at Village Plaza, a scene of family activity, lodging and dining. And it’s all smiles on the mountain, which isn’t as crowded as the major resorts in the central part of the state.

The terrain is well-suited for intermediate skiers.

Next-level guests get their fill of moguls.

Skiable terrain: 800 acres Trails: 66 // Lifts: 7 Mountain stats: 11,952-foot summit, 10,790-foot base

Skiable terrain: 1,635 acres Trails: 105 // Lifts: 13 Mountain stats: 10,822-foot summit, 8,793-foot base

 Check out: Brown Dog Coffee in Buena Vista; Sweetie’s Sandwich Shop in Salida; pizza and beer at Eddyline South Main in Buena Vista

 Check out: Oscar’s Cafe for breakfast; burgers at James Ranch; Ska Brewing Co.

30 OTC Winter Guide

SILVERTON

SNOWMASS

“STEEP AND DEEP” IS THE MOTTO AT THIS SKI AREA THAT IS UNLIKE ANY IN COLORADO. Few in North America can compare with the operation that features heli-skiing — dropping from a helicopter onto powder-packed slopes. You won’t find groomers anywhere across this daunting, secluded swath of the San Juan Mountains.

OF THE 5,300-PLUS ACRES SPREAD ACROSS ASPEN’S FOUR SKI AREAS, SNOWMASS IS BY FAR THE BIGGEST, COVERING MORE TERRAIN THAN ASPEN MOUNTAIN, ASPEN HIGHLANDS AND BUTTERMILK COMBINED. Families from afar make Snowmass their vacation and discover the apres atmosphere famous to Colorado winters.

“Chances are you’re not good enough to ski Silverton Mountain,” begins a New York Times story. “The soul of skiing still lives at Silverton,” Forbes once proclaimed, for the mountain places rugged adventure above all else.

Reservations have been made for guides to show groups around the hike-to wilds, festooned with rocks, cliffs, bowls and chutes. A double chairlift is the only thing keeping the terrain from feeling like pure backcountry.

Skiable terrain: 1,819 acres, with 22,000 additional acres for heli-skiing and hike-to terrain Lifts: 1 Mountain stats: 13,487-foot summit, 10,400-foot base

 Check out: Grand Imperial Hotel; Avalanche Brewing Co.; skiing and more at Kendall Mountain

Silverton: Christian Murdock

The resort claims to offer more vertical feet than any other in the country. The Cirque lift, running when conditions allow, rises to 12,500 feet, reaching an expert area full of glades and moguls. Learn why Snowmass promises to be “never the same mountain twice” by exploring vast areas such as Hanging Valley and the Burn Cliffs, comprising technical chutes, rocky dropoffs and open fields great for powder days.

Well-known are the resort’s wide cruisers, including a 5-mile blue run starting from Burnt Mountain. Also renowned are Snowmass’ terrain parks. A 22-foot superpipe is the centerpiece of Snowmass Park.

Skiable terrain: 3,339 acres Trails: 96 // Lifts: 24 Mountain stats: 12,510-foot summit, 8,104-foot base

 Check out: Paradise Bakery and Cafe; Slow Groovin’ BBQ; snowshoe tours by Aspen Studies of Environmental Science

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STEAMBOAT

TELLURIDE

IN STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, SKIING IS AS FUNDAMENTAL AS WALKING. This is Ski Town, USA, worthy of the title for having produced a bunch of Olympians.

CENTRAL TO TELLURIDE SKI RESORT’S LOGO IS A MINER’S AXE — A NOD TO THE HISTORY OF ONE OF COLORADO’S MOST ICONIC TOWNS. Remotely tucked in the heart of the majestic San Juan Mountains, Telluride mixes nostalgic charm with apres spoils.

So maybe it’s no surprise the local ski resort is one of the largest in Colorado, boasting four terrain parks, including the premier Mavericks Superpipe, promoted as “a freerider’s dream.” And maybe it’s no surprise that nearly half the terrain across Steamboat’s six peaks has an advanced designation.

For beginners, the best terrain is at the majesty of 11,800 feet. The Prospect Bowl Express ascends to green-rated runs found there. The famed Galloping Goose, the resort’s longest run at 4.6 miles, also can be reached from the lift.

Powder hounds seek the resort’s choice stashes and big moguls. Still, families find fun here every year — including on the Outlaw Mountain Coaster, the alpine ride extending an impressive 6,280 feet. Tree skiing is the draw to Steamboat, where the area’s famous “champagne powder” fills between the timber.

From the Revelation Express and Gold Hill Express, intermediate skiers and riders enjoy the groomed See Forever, the name of which rightly suggests the vistas to expect. Thrill-seekers take a shot down the Plunge, which drops 3,140 vertical feet. Powder hounds hike to the Gold Hill Chutes.

Skiable terrain: 2,965 acres Trails: 165 // Lifts: 18 Mountain stats: 10,568-foot summit, 6,900-foot base

Skiable terrain: 2,000-plus acres Trails: 148 // Lifts: 17 Mountain stats: 13,150-foot summit, 8,725-foot base

 Check out: Breakfast at Creekside Cafe; western attire at F.M. Light & Sons; Taco Beast snowcat on mountain

 Check out: Breakfast and lunch at Baked in Telluride; Gorrono Ranch at mid-mountain; Telluride Brewing Co.

SUNLIGHT GLENWOOD SPRINGS IS A BASE FOR OUTDOOR BLISS. In the summer, the surrounding canyons bustle with hikers and mountain bikers, and the rivers are alive with rafters and kayakers. The world’s largest mineral hot springs pool entices year-round. How about a soak after a day on the slopes?

“No hassles. No hype.” That’s the word from Colorado Ski Country, the association representing Sunlight Mountain Resort. Skiers and riders park at the base or take a shuttle there from town. Be it a long cruise down the trail called Ute or the steep, 52-degree pitch that is the Heathen, all trails lead back to the modest base.

With 75% of the trails for beginner and intermediate skill sets, Sunlight is known as a family-friendly retreat.

For double black diamond runs, seek the East Ridge.

Also, Sunlight offers 18 miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

Skiable terrain: 680 acres Trails: 67 // Lifts: 3 Mountain stats: 9,895-foot summit, 7,885-foot base

 Check out: Glenwood Hot Springs Pool; doughnuts at Sweet Coloradough; comfort food and cocktails at The Pullman Steamboat: Christian Murdock 32 OTC Winter Guide

VAIL

WOLF CREEK

IT’S TRUE: VAIL REALLY IS “LIKE NOTHING ON EARTH,” AS THE SLOGAN GOES. What was once a valley of sheepherders is now a world-famous destination.

PULL OFF SCENIC WOLF CREEK PASS AND ENTER A WINTER WONDERLAND OF NOSTALGIA. Across the industry that becomes more apres and plush every year, Wolf Creek Ski Area keeps its bare-bones appearance.

That is a point of pride for the Pitchers, overseeing one of the nation’s last family-owned slopes.

In North America, Vail is behind only Whistler Blackcomb, Big Sky Resort and Powder Mountain in terms of skiable terrain. Shuttles and heated walkways connect the resort’s three sections: Front-Side, Blue Sky Basin and Back Bowl. All have achieved legendary status for their range of challenges and views. Shangri-La is regarded as a must-hit on powder days.

The Wall Street Journal not long ago counted Wolf Creek as a best-kept secret among the country’s ski areas. A visit to the parking lot, especially during the holidays, and the Texas license plates would imply the secret is out.

The basin attracts backcountry lovers who find everything from wide, open areas to glades and bumps. The black diamond Riva Ridge is one of the resort’s oldest trails and is still the longest at 4 miles. Beginner and intermediate skiers and riders stick to the mountain’s east side, stocked with corduroy and friendly cruisers.

But locals here between the San Luis Valley and San Juan Mountains are spoiled with supreme powder. Wolf Creek claims to get more natural snow than any other ski area in Colorado.

The split among beginner, intermediate and advanced terrain invites skiers and riders from near and far. For the more experienced, a variety of bowls and glades are hike-to treasures.

Skiable terrain: 5,317 acres Trails: 195 // Lifts: 31 Mountain stats: 11,570-foot summit, 8,120-foot base

Skiable terrain: 1,600 acres Trails: 77 // Lifts: 10 Mountain stats: 11,904-foot summit, 10,300-foot base

 Check out: Breakfast at Village Bagel in Edwards; Minturn Saloon; dinner and drinks at Sweet Basil

 Check out: Pagosa Springs’ hot springs; Root House Coffee in Pagosa; Two Rivers BBQ in South Fork

WINTER PARK MORE THAN 80 YEARS OF INSTITUTIONAL KNOWLEDGE IS KEPT AT WINTER PARK RESORT, ONE OF COLORADO’S OLDEST SKI AREAS. What began as a project by Denver government to provide winter fun for residents has become a major destination about a 90-minute drive from Denver International Airport.

While recent development has focused on year-round recreation, classic skiing and riding is still the calling card.

The famously bumpy terrain is spread across two mountains, with the majority of beginner trails located on the resort’s namesake peak. Meanwhile, the Mary Jane side caters more to the advanced types.

“The legendary lady,” as the mountain is called, boasts technical moguls and flowy blues.

The Parsenn Bowl is a high-alpine paradise. Best known for its powder stashes, Vasquez Ridge offers more backcountry thrills.

Skiable terrain: 3,081 acres Trails: 166 // Lifts: 23 Mountain stats: 12,060-foot summit, 9,000-foot base

 Check out: Lodge at Sunspot on mountain; Randi’s Irish Grill and Pub; Hideaway Park Brewery Wolf Creek: Christian Murdock

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POWDER

By Dave Philipps

FOR SKIERS, A TRAIL MAP ISN’T JUST A TRAIL MAP. IT’S A COME-HITHER PIN-UP, A PLAYGROUND FOR A DAYDREAM POWDER RUN.

And the right map can be worth big money to ski resorts.

That’s where JAMES NIEHUES comes in. For more than three decades, Niehues has been North America’s preeminent ski resort illustrator.

His maps are clear enough to get skiers around the mountain on even the most blustery days and stunning enough, with their snowcapped evergreens and jagged peaks, to capture the spirit of a place.

A love of landscape was Niehues’ introduction to ski maps. He grew up in tiny Loma, west of Grand Junction, hiking and hunting in the sandstone wilderness along the Colorado River.

He had a knack for art but didn’t hone his skills until a kidney disease called nephritis landed him in bed for three months when he was in ninth grade.

“My mom gave me an oil-paint set to pass the time, and I’d paint scenes out of magazines,” he said.

Trail map painting is such a small world it can really support only one or two full-time artists at a time. The first was Colorado cartographer Hal Sheldon, who started painting ski mountains in the 1960s. Sheldon trained Bill Brown, who brought the art into the 1980s.

Niehues knocked on Brown’s door in 1987.

“I was lucky. It just so happened that he wanted to get out of the business just as I wanted to get in,” Niehues said.

Brown was getting interested in making

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JAMES NIEHUES WORKS IN HIS HOME STUDIO IN PARKER IN 2018.

COURTESY PHOTO

Painter documentary videos but still had ski map commissions coming in, so he passed one — illustrating the new backside of Mary Jane — to Niehues.

“I turned it in with Bill’s name on it,” Niehues said. “It must have been pretty good because they never noticed.”

From there, Niehues took up more and more of Brown’s small jobs. Then he landed his own commission painting monthly mountain views for Snow Country magazine in 1988.

So began the life of helicopter rides over mountains, camera in hand to capture the perspectives he needed to recreate with brush back home. An accurate scale is important, but the struggle for it never led Niehues to a computer. The hand creates “the best representation of the outdoors,” he said. And that is paramount.

The Parker resident has painted more than 200 mountains and an array of aerial views of national parks, golf courses and swanky island retreats. Each has his stylized block signature in the corner.

He's been hailed “the Michelangelo of Snow,” a title he dismisses. ”I don’t think I’m there yet,” he said.  Seth Boster contributed to this story

Snow meteorologist 'cautiously optimistic' on powder forecast

By Seth Boster COULD THE WOES OF 2020 BE WIPED AWAY BY BOUNTIFUL POWDER ON THE SLOPES? " YOU WOULD HOPE," Joel Gratz said as he attempted to forecast the coming winter.

Colorado skiers' go-to meteorologist recording daily powder updates at OpenSnow.com considered himself "cautiously optimistic."

That was due to the moderate-level La Niña expected this year — a level defined by cooler-thanaverage temperatures on the Pacific Ocean.

Storms tracking over those cooler waters historically means more snow for the West, "including most of Colorado," Gratz said.

A moderate La Niña "tips the odds in our favor," he said, "but it's not a guarantee."

From his home base in Boulder, he can find that to be true by digging into his archives. He pulled up data from the moderate La Niña season of 2011-12 and found Colorado snow totals to be "not good."

"It was very good in the far Pacific Northwest, up around Washington and also Montana," he said, "but it was not a good season for us."

He noted weak La Niñas for Colorado's 2016-17 and 2017-18 seasons and found the former to be "a good season for most places" and the latter to be "not a very good season for most places."

The variability comes down to the variability of weather, Gratz said — the unpredictable ways in which storms blow.

Christian Murdock

A storm trending one direction or another even by 100 miles can drastically alter which mountains see snow and which don't, he said.

While warmer Pacific temperatures known as El Niño tend to spell winter storms that favor Colorado's southern mountains, La Niña is known to favor the central and northern mountains.

"But just a little bit," Gratz said.

"Again, it just comes back to that (storm track) wiggling east or west by 100 or 200 miles either way.”

COLORADO'S TOP 20 SKI AREAS FOR SNOW

THE WEBSITE

zrankings.com is the snow source behind Forbes' annual grading of North American resorts. Its mountain- and data-crazed team seeks to equip fellow enthusiasts with the powder knowledge they need.

"To measure the seemingly immeasurable, we've ingested gobs of historical weather data and every last measurable detail on 220 North American resorts," the site pledges.

The team maintains calculations for "true snow," yearly averages measured in inches.

Here's how Colorado ski areas rank on the site: Wolf Creek — 387 Steamboat — 368 Vail — 354 Winter Park — 347 Loveland — 344 Beaver Creek — 325 Arapahoe Basin — 314 Snowmass — 295 Monarch — 284 Breckenridge — 282 Copper Mountain — 278 Telluride — 276 Purgatory — 264 Crested Butte — 253 Aspen Highlands — 252 Aspen Mountain — 250 Keystone — 235 Sunlight — 232 Eldora — 225 Powderhorn — 225

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Avalanche Keep yourself alive out there 101:

By R. Scott Rappold

IT’S A POWDER DAY

high on the Continental Divide.

Three inches of snow have coated the evergreens like a winter postcard and left the ground pillowy and untracked.

Tromping in snowshoes toward timberline, above 11,539-foot Hoosier Pass, it’s hard to imagine that this gift from nature could mask a hidden danger.

But the picturesque blanket of snow hides layers underneath — solid icy slabs, soft filling, another slab and, beneath it all, the sugary few inches known as “depth hoar” that weaken over time.

Unnerving? Yes, especially when you consider that Colorado leads the nation in avalanche deaths, with 287 between 1950 and 2019.

Colorado’s seasonal avalanche risk begins brewing in the fall.

“We get early-season snow in October and November, and it sits around on high-elevation, north- and east-facing slopes where it’s pretty cold,” says Mike Cooperstein, forecaster at the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC). “And the snow goes through changes when it sits on the ground like that.”

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Those changes, coupled with heavy winter snow, can be a recipe for trouble.

“If those weak layers fail, we get what we call dry slab avalanches,” Cooperstein says.

“And those are pretty dangerous avalanches.”

Avalanche danger, to be sure, is a real threat.

But it’s no reason to avoid the backcountry.

With the right training and gear, outdoors lovers can penetrate the depths of Colorado’s highcountry wilderness with confidence.

Know the signs Survivors typically describe a cracking sound.

A slab of snow breaks away from the mountainside, and anyone unfortunate enough to be caught in it is hurtled down.

About a quarter of people who die in avalanches are killed by the impact of the snow, or by hitting rocks or trees. Those who survive the slide often find themselves buried. Unable to move, their breath forms an icy mask and they asphyxiate, usually within 15 minutes.

Most avalanche safety classes focus on not getting into this position.

Any backcountry snowshoe, snowmobile, cross-country skiing, alpine skiing or snowboarding trip should start with a visit

TRACTION LAWS VARY It's important to be aware of all active traction laws as you're traveling.

Each year, the state's traction law on Interstate 70 runs from September through May and extends from Dotsero to Morrison, requiring all vehicles to carry proper winter traction, regardless of weather. All other roads and highways are subject to traction laws during severe wintry weather.

MEANS OF COMPLIANCE According to the Colorado Department of Transportation (CDOT), an active traction law requires all motorists to have one of the following: a four-wheel or all-wheel-drive vehicle with at least 3/16-inch tread depth; tires with a mud and snow designation (M+S icon) with at least 3/16-inch tread depth; winter tires (mountain-snowflake icon) with at least 3/16-inch tread depth; tires with an all-weather rating by the manufacturer with at least 3/16-inch tread depth; or chains or an AutoSock.

HEFTY FINE AWAITS The Colorado State Patrol is doing its part to keep mountain travelers safe, cracking down on those who refuse to follow traction laws. Violators could face fines ranging from $130 to $650. If a vehicle blocks the road due to inadequate traction, the motorist could face a fine of more than $650. Drivers will be allowed to operate with standard tires as long as they carry chains or an alternative traction device such as the AutoSock.

STAY INFORMED Traction and chain laws often are implemented when roads or mountain passes become snowy.

According to officials, this is the final safety measure before a road or pass is closed. Motorists can be alerted by signage, COtrip. org and weather alerts.

USE THE "QUARTER TEST" To test the tread on vehicle tires, CDOT recommends inserting a quarter into the tread, with Washington’s head going in first. If the top of the head is covered by tread, you’ve passed the test. If the top of the head is visible at any point around the tire (test multiple places), you’ve failed.

Heads-up!

Your vehicle might need new tires to travel around Colorado legally this winter. By Breanna Sneeringer Here are five tips to consider:

to avalanche.state.co.us, the CAIC’s website. Forecasters rate the danger for every mountain range on a scale of “low” to “extreme.”

If it’s “high” or “extreme,” usually after a heavy snowfall, consider staying home or choosing a route far from any steep slope. Most deaths occur when the rating is “considerable.”

It’s a gray area and, unless your trip takes you across flat terrain or to valleys far from any suspect slope, the best thing to do is dig deeper.

About 4 feet deep.

Dig a pit in the snow near where you will be playing, on a similarly angled slope, and examine a flat cross-section of the snow. With gentle finger pressure, you can identify the different layers of snow. Dig out a column and see if levels collapse when pressure is applied on the top and then again when digging behind it with a shovel. Ideally, you’ll find consistent snow without layers.

Most avalanches occur on slopes with grades of 30 degrees to 45 degrees. But simply staying away from steeper slopes is not always enough. When a slab of snow is under enough pressure, stepping or skiing even on the lower aspects, the area called the “run out,” can lead to a fatal slide.

Have a plan Most of the time, you’re not in danger of an avalanche unless you put yourself in harm’s way.

Experts cite a number of human mistakes in most avalanche deaths: people believe terrain is safe because it’s familiar; they dismiss risks because of “summit fever” or “powder fever” or because they’ve spent a lot of time and money on a trip; they bow to the actions of the group’s “expert”; they believe tracks made by others mean a slope is safe.

If you’re heading into the backcountry, you must be able to rely on your companions. After a slide, getting timely help is rarely an option.

Everyone going into avalanche-prone terrain should wear an avalanche beacon, a device that emits a signal that other beacons can latch onto to locate someone under the snow. They’re not cheap — a new beacon costs $250 or more — but they’re essential gear, along with a shovel and probe for finding a victim under the snow.

Hannah Stoll contributed to this story OutThere Colorado

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Tips for bagging fourteeners in the winter

By Josh Friesema

HIKING A 14,000-FOOT PEAK IN WINTER IS NOTHING LIKE HIKING ONE IN SUMMER.

Taking on such a challenge is to experience the real Colorado, rugged and untracked wilderness. But don't venture into that wilderness unprepared. Here are seven tips: 1. LEARN TO LAYER

4. CARRY AN AXE

Use clothing layers well and invest in a shell of clothing that are a few tips: is waterproofHere and breathable.

If youhelpful have a solid shell, then your layers don’t need to be anything fancy, as long as you avoid cotton. Don’t forget layers for your head, face, neck, feet and hands.

While it's possible to hike trails that don’t go into terrain where you’d need one, getting off route in winter is common and an ice axe can save you in a bad situation.

The basic purpose of an ice axe is to help you stop in an uncontrolled slide. There is little time to respond so make sure you’ve learned how to use it properly.

Be proactive in adjusting your layers. When stopping to rest, put on additional layers before you feel cold enough to need them. Pause before reaching a ridge or a saddle and zip up your shell layers. Winter winds blow harder and will steal your body heat if you don’t seal them out.

2. PROTECT YOUR WATER Just because it’s cold outside doesn’t mean your body’s need for water decreases. But carrying enough water does no good if you can’t drink it.

In winter, forgo the hydration packs and stick with largemouth water bottles, keeping one in an insulated pouch that is easily accessible. It’s best to store it upside down so that any ice that forms will be at the bottom of the bottle. Keep additional bottles in your pack, wrapped in emergency gear and extra clothing.

3. PLAN FOR SNOW Bring footwear traction appropriate for the terrain, whether it’s crampons, snow/ice traction devices or a pair of boots with good lugs. To avoid post-holing, bring snowshoes (or skis) for deep snow.

Know how to navigate your route without any clues besides the topography. Snow can obscure a trail and even your own tracks might be swept away behind you in seconds.

Most important, be prepared for avalanches. Take an avalanche-awareness class and be sure you have the proper equipment and know how to use it. At a minimum, this includes an avalanche beacon, probe and metal shovel.

Don’t skimp on this equipment.

5. TAKE A HEADLAMP AND BATTERIES The math is pretty simple. Hikes take longer in winter and daylight is much shorter. Put those together and you’ll likely be hiking in the dark.

6. BE PREPARED TO SUCCEED Plan ahead. Know how close to the trailhead you’ll be able to drive. Pay attention to the snowfall that occurs in the weeks preceding the hike. Try to pack as light as possible without leaving anything behind you’ll need. Get in shape and lose weight if you’re carrying extra pounds.

7. BE PREPARED TO FAIL Mountaineering involves persevering through a lot of difficulty, but at some point continuing to push on risks too much.

Also be prepared for when things go wrong. Make sure you have the gear needed to spend an unplanned night out.

A HIKERS TAKES IN THE VIEWS ATOP MOUNT BIERSTADT Jakob Rodgers, The Gazette

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COLORADANS' ADORATION FOR STATE PARKS HAS DEEPENED DURING THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC.

Through spring and summer, Colorado Parks and Wildlife tallied 14.7 million visitors to the 41 preserves — 3 million more than the same time frame last year.

Will the love affair continue into winter?

Golden Gate State Park

Hikers. Bikers. Equestrians. Hunters. Anglers.

Just about everyone finds their happy place across these 12,000 acres set against classic Rocky Mountain beauty.

Most popular is the scenic overlook at Panorama Point, where the Continental Divide appears to stretch forever with the sky. We last visited the point during a hike along Raccoon Trail. Snow was on the ground at the time, and we felt invigorated by the stillness of open meadows and dense aspen groves.

There’s plenty of room to spread out across 35-plus miles of trail. Visitors will find trails as short as Blue Grouse Trail, less than a mile one way through charming woods, and as long as Black Bear Trail, about 7 miles round trip and gaining nearly 1,100 feet with views of Mount Evans and the park’s namesake canyon.

Slough and Kriley ponds are go-to spots for ice fishing.

Ridgway State Park

Summer bustles with boats and anglers on the reservoir backdropped by the mystical San Juan Mountains.

Colorado state parks MADE FOR

WINTER

By Seth Boster

Winter casts the refuge in a different, stark perspective no less glorious.

Rangers invite all to experience the 14-plus miles of trail in Mother Nature’s glistening fluff. Enchanted Mesa is spectacular — the trail is short, but the views hard-earned of the reservoir and jagged peaks beyond.

Wherever you go, there’s a solid chance you spot a bald eagle.

That’s just one of 140 birds said to call the park home.

The park is less than 15 miles from Ouray, “the Switzerland of America” tucked in a box canyon that’s even prettier when it’s draped with snow.

Telluride is about 45 miles from the park.

State Forest State Park

It’s perhaps Colorado’s worst-named state park.

It’s also the biggest, at nearly 71,000 acres, and features some of the highest elevations.

The park is located near Walden, the so-called “moose capital of Colorado” for the largest herd roaming in the area. If you’re not enticed yet, perhaps State Forest’s nickname will do the trick: “little Rocky Mountain National Park,” for the similar rugged peaks and high-alpine lakes enjoyed here.

The Medicine Bow and Never Summer ranges meet the Nokhu Crags for a buffet of vistas. State Forest is a year-round treasure. The threat from this summer’s Cameron Peak fire — forcing several closures in the park — should remind us to not take it for granted.

OutThere Colorado

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TO EXIT INTERSTATE 70 AND DROP INTO GEORGETOWN IS TO EXIT THE MODERN WORLD. Less than an hour's drive from the state's busiest metro, this hamlet sits amid Rocky Mountain splendor, largely defying the progress of man.

Georgetown opts for nostalgia over development, tradition over change. With the proximity to ski areas such as Loveland, Arapahoe Basin, Keystone and Winter Park, it's easy to think real estate moguls could've had their way here. Not in Georgetown.

Victorian buildings erected during the silver boom are forever protected by a National Historic District designation locals lobbied for in the 1960s. The buildings house businesses such as Kneisel & Anderson, a grocery and hardware store that has lasted since the 1890s.

Other history is preserved at several museums.

And Christmas is king.

Last year saw the 60th celebration of the Georgetown Christmas Market. Locals once again dressed in old world attire and spread holiday cheer in song. Parades, roasted chestnuts, horse-drawn wagons and St. Nicholas are all known to accompany the festivities, typically held the first two weekends in December.

The spirit of the season is also on full display at Georgetown Loop Railroad, which offers Christmasthemed trips aboard a steam-powered locomotive.

Those are far from the only draws to the area.

WINTER

SPOTLIGHT GEORGETOWN

By Seth Boster

Georgetown Christmas Market.

The Clear Creek Courant Georgetown Loop Railroad.

Christian Murdock

40 OTC Winter Guide

Explore the merchandise BOUTIQUES, GIFT SHOPS AND GALLERIES GALORE. SHOPPING COULD OCCUPY A DAY IN GEORGETOWN.

You can start with coffee and go next door to the store specializing in plants and candles. Elsewhere on 6th Street is Buckskin Trading Co., with racks of fashion-forward women's attire, and The Trading Post, with hats, hides and jewelry fit for the old West. Shoppe Internationale is dedicated to Christmas trinkets year-round.

Kneisel & Anderson, the aforementioned oldest business in town, appears much like it did in its early days. The old, wooden shelves are stocked with imported goods from Scandinavia, Germany and Sweden.

Explore the underground THE MINES THAT MADE CLEAR CREEK COUNTY AND THE BROADER CENTENNIAL STATE COME TO LIFE IN THE 19TH CENTURY ARE YEAR-ROUND INTRIGUES TODAY.

Prospectors didn't stop for winter; nor do modern-day visitors wondering how those before them lived.

Argo Mill and Tunnel is most prominent along I-70, the restored facility near Idaho Springs that was home to what was considered the world's longest gold mining tunnel at more than 4 miles.

Closer to Georgetown, the Capital Prize Mine invites guests to venture 1,000 feet into the mountain and "see, feel and experience what it was like to be a hard rock miner over 100 years ago."

Don't let the frigid temperatures outside deter you as the mines are dry and warm.

Unwind and refuel GEORGETOWN'S RUSTIC AESTHETIC IS ACCENTUATED

BY ACCOMMODATIONS THAT YOU'LL BE EAGER TO RETURN TO AFTER A CHILLY DAY SPENT SKIING ON THE SLOPES OR ICE FISHING ON THE TOWN'S 55-ACRE LAKE.

Fresh-baked croissants go with the European hospitality at Hotel Chateau Chamonix, where wooden decks and hot tubs overlook the scenery. A family reunion could be had at Saxon Mountain Retreat, the big cabin tucked among tall trees and listed as sleeping 16.

At night, get a taste of apres at Cooper's on the Creek, or gather round for pizza at the Alpine Restaurant.

COOL WINTER RIDES

By Seth Boster

Spots to keep you mountain biking

MAYBE YOU’RE WANTING TO KEEP IT AUTHENTIC, REAL-DEAL MOUNTAIN BIKING, despite Old Man Winter making things less than ideal with shorter days and storms rendering most of the high-alpine singletrack inaccessible. No, you don’t have to retreat to the deserts of Fruita for a pick-me-up this season. Layer up and stay true to your saddle, exploring these parts of the Front Range:

Oil Well Flats Seek the Banana Belt. The area south on Interstate 25 and Colorado 115 gets the name for the temperate climate, and that’s to thank for making the area rideable in winter. Also, thank the cycling advocates who alongside the Bureau of Land Management are making the Royal Gorge region a mountain bike destination. Just outside of Cañon City, Oil Well Flats’ 12-mile singletrack network is still in its infancy, but its legend seems to grow every year. Check out regular condition reports from the folks at Fremont Adventure Recreation at joinfar.org/trails.

Lake Pueblo State Park

Buffalo Creek

The “Fruita of the Front Range” is a fishing and boating paradise in summer, a cycling mecca in winter. Some of Colorado’s riders skip the summer heat and wait until now to see what the buzz is all about.

Is it time for Buff’s Big Loop, the 23½-mile backcountry venture that has an “epic” designation from International Mountain Bicycling Association? Probably not. You definitely don’t want to go soon after a storm.

But with good timing, you’ll be glad to familiarize yourself with this coveted system.

They’ll snag a campsite and spend the weekend touring the South Shore, with a 25-mile trail web that takes them on long, flowy sections and through shalecovered corridors between rock shelves.

Spruce Mountain Open Space The downhill is short-lived and the trail stays wide along the flat top, better suiting equestrians around Larkspur and Monument. But if winter comes just as you’re getting into the sport, this 5½-mile loop could be perfect training.

The singletrack has garnered quite the reputation in the years since the Buffalo Creek fire. From twisty turns to rolling cruises to punchy drops, just about every delight can be had on the trails. Ice patches are common, but long stretches tend to be sandy and snow-free.

Buffalo Creek Recreation Area is west on Jefferson County Road 128, off Forest Service Road 550.

The views of the valley and foothills are splendid.

And you can count on crowds to be smaller than those on popular trails in Colorado Springs and Denver.

Green Mountain Lakewood markets William F. Hayden Park as a winter destination, boasting trails that stay dry. Indeed, riders know they can depend on the Green Mountain Trail for how it straddles south-facing slopes, with no shade to stock snow. There are also no trees to block the sweeping vistas.

The trail is a 6½-mile loop, best ridden counterclockwise from the head on Rooney Road. For a highly technical detour, go across the road to the Zorro Trail and grind up to the Dakota Ridge, a rock-riddled playground also frequented all seasons.

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SOUTH CANON TRAILS IN CANON CITY. Christian Murdock

Leave no trace this winter with these best practices

By Meg Atteberry JUST BECAUSE THE GROUND IS COVERED WITH SNOW DOESN’T MEAN LEAVE NO TRACE RULES NO LONGER APPLY.

1. TRAVEL LIGHTLY: Winter conditions typically lead to off-trail travel. The path often becomes a series of wandering footprints so carry a GPS to stay on track. If you find yourself off-route, steer clear of stepping on young trees and vegetation. Trees, especially saplings, are vulnerable to disruption during winter months.

2. WHEN YOU GOTTA GO, YOU GOTTA GO: Just like during summer, always use the bathroom 200

feet from sources of water and trails. Be aware that, in winter, streams and waterlines often are covered in snow so consult your GPS prior to a potty break. Similarly, pack out any toilet paper and waste in a ziplock bag. In sensitive, high-alpine environments, use a specially designed bag such as a Wag Bag to store your waste. These bags are designed to break down waste with powder and gel in order to prevent a smelly situation. In non-sensitive areas, bury your waste deep in the snowpack. These rules also apply for four-legged companions.

3. FIRE IT UP: Only burn downed wood. Never cut live trees because this not only harms the ecosystem, it produces a smoky fire that isn’t pleasant to sit around.

Keep fires small in order to avoid damaging the environment. When it comes to warmth, the size of the fire doesn’t matter as much as the buildup of a coal bed. Use a stove for cooking.

Fires should be made from found dead wood. Wood bought in town and burned in the wilderness can introduce disease and bugs into the environment. During winter, vegetation is more susceptible so firewood that is not sourced locally can spread disease. When you’re ready to extinguish the fire, cover it in snow and spread the cold ashes evenly if you aren’t using a preexisting fire ring.

4. PITCH A PERFECT CAMP: If you opt for an overnight jaunt in a winter wonderland, be sure to

minimize your impact. First, select a campsite that is safe. Don’t pitch your tent in avalanche terrain, unstable snow or near dead trees. Unless it is absolutely necessary, avoid camping on tundra or exposed high-alpine terrain. Life in these environments grows slowly, and a tent can damage decades of growth.

Like during summer, you want to keep your camp 200 feet from water sources. However, you’ll want to consult your GPS to make sure you aren’t accidentally pitching your tent on or near a frozen lake. Not only is this dangerous, it impacts the delicate shore line environment.

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