OutThere Colorado 2023 Summer/Fall Guide by Colorado Springs Gazette, LLC

2023 SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

COLORADO

ROCKS $8.99

CENTER! E R U T A N E E R F

Learn The SECRETS

OF THE GARDEN Before You Visit The Park

AMERICAN BUFFALO

COLORADO WILDLIFE

DYNAMIC INTERACTIVE MUSEUM EXHIBITS

NATURAL HISTORY

• Interactive, educational, and fun exhibits • See the Theiophytalia kerri dinosaur - discovered only in the Garden • Explore the Park’s converging ecosystems • Mountain Majesties, a virtual tour of Colorado’s highest peaks • Wide-angle, time-lapse video of the Garden through the seasons • Giant 3D interactive Topographic map

UNIQUE DINOSAUR

“HOW DID THOSE RED ROCKS GET THERE?” A show millions of years in the making In the Geo-Trekker Theater • Journey through time and space to learn about the Garden of the Gods • A fun, exciting, entertaining and educational 12 minute HD movie adventure • $6 for adults, $4 for children ages 5-12

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES • FREE Maps, Daily Nature Walks, Adventure Programs, Hiking, Summer Segway, Jeep and 1909 Trolley Tours, Guided Rock Climbing, Bike Rentals and Guided eBike Tours

DINING AND SHOPPING

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OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

SUMMER STARTER

By Spencer McKee

Summertime in Colorado rocks, and that’s no secret. Make the most of your summer by going online to OutThereColorado.com. Not only will OutThere Colorado keep you up-to-date on essential state news, you also will find inspiration for adventure and exploration in the beautiful Centennial State. Whether your favorite summer activity is rock climbing, mountain biking, trail running or sightseeing, this award-winning website has something for you. Visit OutThereColorado.com today to help kick off your summer right.

INSIDE

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WILDFLOWER CAPITAL Crested Butte blooms big in summer MEMORABLE GETAWAY Explore the state with a trek on I-70 A NIGHT AMID NATURE Pitch a tent at these incredible sites ONE-OF-A-KIND VENUE Loads of talent coming to Red Rocks MARK YOUR CALENDAR Sixty festivals for you to consider RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE Rugged roads add to the adventure A ROARING GOOD TIME So much to do in Aspen, Glenwood HISTORY STILL STRONG Former mining towns find new life

OUTTHERE COLORADO STAFF Director of Content/ Operations

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Magazine Editor

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Magazine Photographers

Digital Content Creator

Sam Schoenecker Magazine Designer

Christian Murdock Parker Seibold

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FALL FOR IT

43 4

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

From the iconic elk rut to the aspen gold rush, autumn puts on an amazing show in Colorado.

SUMMER

ROCK SOLID By Seth Boster

Wheeler Geologic Area. Christian Murdock

e once drove through Walsenburg with a geologist named Brian Penn, passing gas stations and discount stores and fast food chains when suddenly Penn veered his Ford Ranger to the side of the road and stopped. The road cut through rock on either side. One might’ve called it a very minor, unremarkable canyon, a slight outcrop worthy of no admiration here in drive-by southern Colorado. Not Penn. “Look at this!” he remarked, leading us up the hill. He pointed out a xenolith, a white spot in the rough. This, he explained, was a fragment of the Earth’s crust that lodged into magma as it was cooling long ago. It was a subtle hint at the awesome, ancient phenomena that shaped more formations ahead: the Great Dikes of Spanish Peaks Country. It was all great to Penn. “I see new stuff all the time,” he said as traffic zoomed by on the littered hillside. “It’s my favorite thing to do.” This is what it’s like to see Colorado through the always curious, always grateful eyes of a geologist. And

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

‘Geology is life’

in Colorado

ROCK STARS It’s true what they say about a rock: Just because it’s one of a kind doesn’t mean it’s valuable. Not true for some formations in Colorado. Here’s a look at them:

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

The national park brochure details the Song of the Gunnison: the water and wind rushing through the steep, deep canyon. Close your eyes and listen, the brochure advises, “mindful of loose rock that could send you sliding into the blackness.” Listen, and like the rock and sky, “the sound gently envelops you.”

Cathedral Spires

It appears that huge grey shark teeth loom over Sky Pond in Rocky Mountain National Park. Sure enough, the highest among them is named Sharkstooth, scraping near 12,600 feet. Neighboring summits: Penknife, Jackknife and Saber.

Dinosaur National Monument

The National Park Service calls the geology “a feast for the mind and for the eye.” Dozens of colorful layers are streaked across the rock. Most famously, the rock encases remains of prehistoric beasts.

Flatirons

Boulder is spoiled with these angling beauties, providing the town’s timeless, iconic backdrop. The massive formations attract die-hard climbers, eager hikers and avid photographers.

Garden of the Gods

In 1879, Charles Elliott Perkins donated his land of red walls and towers to the city of Colorado Springs on the condition that it “be kept forever free to the public.” It’s a gift that keeps on giving.

Great Dikes

These granite outcrops radiate across La Veta’s foothills like spokes of a wheel or spikes on a dragon’s back. With names such as Devil’s Stairsteps, they put the “legends” in the Highway of Legends.

Wheeler Geologic Area

This set of spires, like a box of Crayola crayons, hides deep in southwest Colorado’s La Garita Wilderness. And it’s only accessible via a harsh, four-wheel-drive road or a long, demanding hike.

Chalk Cliffs

Lower your eyes from the 14,000-foot Collegiate Peaks and you will notice a brush of white against Chaffee County’s splendid canvas. Geothermal waters have a role in the Chalk Cliffs’ coloration; they are indeed best envied from Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort.

Chimney Rock

The unmistakable pillar soars high on the mountains between Pagosa Springs and Durango. The national monument hosts tours throughout the summer, offering the chance to learn about the lore that lives there.

Colorado National Monument

Too many people keep driving west on Interstate 70 to Moab, Utah. Little do they know a similar, multicolored landscape awaits above Grand Junction. It can be explored by vehicle on Rim Rock Drive and by foot on trails such as Monument Canyon, which drops into the grandeur.

Dillon Pinnacles

These sentinels stand against Colorado’s biggest body of water, Blue Mesa Reservoir. You might want to get a closer look from the trail that wraps around them. And you might just imagine a creation story of deep time involving ash and lava. — SETH BOSTER

this is the kind of experience we hope to provide in this magazine. You’ll find much more than rock in this guide loading you with ideas for a perfect summer in Colorado. You’ll find tips for hiking, biking, camping, dining, family fun and much more around this state of endless diversion and discovery. It’s a state of endless beauty. And all of it, one might say, comes down to geology. One such as Vincent Matthews, author of “Messages in Stone: Colorado’s Colorful Geology.” “The plains, mountains, valleys and plateaus — indeed every aspect of this natural landscape — are the direct result of geologic processes,” Matthews wrote. “Cataclysmic forces have pushed, pulled, hammered, and baked the state into the ever-changing scenery we call Colorado.” The beauty is defined in other ways, granted another notable author on the subject, Lon Abbott. “The climate makes a difference, the vegetation makes a difference, the animals that populate it,” the University of

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Rangely. Chancey Bush

(continued from page 7)

Colorado professor said. “But ultimately, geology is the substrate that triggers all of that. At a very fundamental level, geology is what makes Colorado what it is.” Geology is what makes up our most celebrated natural sanctuaries, from scenic Rocky Mountain National Park, to Mesa Verde National Park in one corner of the state and Dinosaur National Monument in another. Other federally protected rock to the west: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and Colorado National Monument. Millions more flock to Garden of the Gods every year. Tourists drive and stroll the sidewalks, while locals know of a similar paradise of walls and spires nearby minus the pavement: Red Rock Canyon Open Space. Yes, it is geology that shapes our cherished playgrounds. Take, for example, the limestone mosaic called Shelf Road near Cañon City, or Eldorado Canyon near Boulder, or Rifle Mountain Park on the Western Slope. Those are known as the birthplaces of American sport climbing, still immensely popular today. Meanwhile, the roots of mountain biking are traced to Crested Butte — no wonder, with all that steep, rugged terrain. It’s hard to ride a bike or drive anywhere in this state without being struck with rock envy. That’s especially true on drives through Glenwood Canyon, or up to the granite, 14,000-foot likes of Pikes Peak and Mount Evans. How blessed we are for those (mostly) smooth roads. Others prefer to earn their views on rough and rowdy routes such as the Alpine Loop. In the small, northwest Colorado town of Rangely, locals test their machines at an unusual rock crawling park. Sturdy vehicles also are required to reach Wheeler Geologic Area, the set of stunning spires deep in La Garita Wilderness.

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PRECIOUS STONES Colorado’s great gems and where to find them Figuratively, we see Colorado’s mountains as a collective treasure trove for all of the rewarding experiences they afford. The landscape is a treasure trove in a literal sense too. Colorado Geological Survey reports the state naturally produces more than 30 varieties of gemstones. These are the most well-known:

Amazonite

The name is derived from the Amazon River, though the mineral is believed to elude the location. Colorado finds itself on a short list of noted sites worldwide. The blue-green prize pops from the stark gray of Pikes Peak granite.

Even when we don’t go looking for rock, we find it. We go to Blue Mesa Reservoir for fun on the state’s largest body of water, only to find ourselves admiring the Dillon Pinnacles. We go to soak at Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort, only for the Chalk Cliffs to command our attention. Suddenly on the southeast plains, Picket Wire Canyon emerges. Suddenly on the northeast plains, the twin sentries of the Pawnee Buttes rise. And somewhere on the grasslands in between, multicolored hoodoos march across Paint Mines Interpretive Park. Of all places in Colorado, those unexpected marvels are a few favorites of Matt Morgan, the state geologist with Colorado Geological Survey. Take it as a tip: Don’t let your gaze get stuck on the high peaks and deep canyons to the west, however spectacular. “It’s such a wide variety that we have here,” Morgan said from his Golden office. There, he can look out to North Table Mountain, home to basalt flows more than 60 million years old. It’s but one station in the vast, worldclass laboratory that is Colorado. When you’re looking at the column-like shapes along the cap of the Grand Mesa, the world’s largest flattop mountain, you’re looking at remains from some of the most ferocious volcanoes the planet ever knew. Lava flowed and over

Smoky quartz

Aquamarine

The Pikes Peak region’s amazonite is famously joined by this dark, cloudy gemstone, combining for a signature mantelpiece. Seekers have unearthed impressive clusters off Crystal Peak, looming like a pyramid over Lake George.

Miners who camp on Mount Antero often succumb to what they call “blue fever.” The hunt for this valuable gem, appearing like frozen sea water, can drive a man mad. It was proclaimed the state gemstone in 1971.

Topaz

Rhodochrosite

It’s another jewel of the Pikes Peak region, which was put on the map by gold. Also catching the eye of prospectors was this clear crystal. A rare blue variety from the peak’s Glen Cove is found at Denver Museum of Nature and Science.

Denver Museum of Nature and Science houses the Alma King, hailed as the world’s finest specimen of this type — a red block sprawled against sparkly white quartz. It’s the state mineral and continues to be pulled from Alma. — SETH BOSTER

Connect with the animals. Connect with each other. Our popular penguins make you smile. Our famous giraffe herd makes you laugh. Omo, our young hippo, makes you love and learn. Our animals have that effect here at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. All while making memories that will last a lifetime. Open 365 days a year. Get closer than ever. Advance tickets required. Visit cmzoo.org today.

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Mark your calendar for our summer events! Advance tickets required.

May 20 & 21 » Run to the Shrine (4-mile run/walk) June 29 » Moonlight on the Mountain (21+ only) July 27 & August 31 » Tails, Tunes & Tastes (21+ only) OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Longs Peak. Ryan Jones

(continued from page 9)

ROCK REPS Some of Colorado’s dominant, marvelous rock types

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Sandstone

We associate this with the reds and oranges we see at Garden of the Gods, Roxborough State Park and Colorado National Monument. On the browner side, the Flatirons are also of the rock falling into the category of sedimentary. That refers to stone formed on or near the Earth’s surface.

Granite

The mighty, gray rock is synonymous with Colorado’s highest mountains and most mesmerizing canyons. It’s most famously showcased by sheer, vertical faces. Granite, such as Pikes Peak’s and Rocky Mountain National Park’s, is igneous rock — formed by the cementing of cooled magma.

millenia cooled and hardened to create more of our dreamscapes today across the San Juan Mountains. Glaciers carved lake-spotted valleys for our backpacking pleasure. Glaciers crafted shapes such as the diamond face on Longs Peak and the Maroon Bells. Nearby is the similarly regal Mount Sopris — “one of the best exposed rock glaciers around in the Lower 48,” Morgan said. Most amazing to David Gonzales? Perhaps right in the middle of Ouray, the southwest Colorado town tucked in a box canyon. The panorama showcases layers of rock that developed deep in the Earth’s core, said the geosciences professor at Durango’s Fort Lewis College. “If I had to pick one spot that has the smallest surface area of the greatest history of geology — even greater than the Grand Canyon I think — that would be the location,” Gonzales said. In our time of growth and development, the box canyon is a timeless reminder of our wild, prevailing place. It is an icon reminding us of home. These icons are everywhere up and down the booming Front Range — from the lava-rimmed Fishers Peak down south to the sandstone-topped Horsetooth Mountain to the north. For what else can we thank geology? We can thank it for unforgettable concerts at Red Rocks Amphitheatre. For unforgettable river trips through the Royal Gorge and Glenwood Canyon. If

the peach farmers of Palisade are to be believed, we can thank geology for DeBeque Canyon, which is said to bring a breeze that sweetens the legendary orchards below. We can’t thank geology enough, Gonzales said. “I tell my students all the time that geology is life,” he said. We can thank geology for the state being a state. This is, after all, a state built on the metals and minerals that the rocks bear. Denver would not be Denver were it not for gold. Nor would Colorado Springs be Colorado Springs. For countless other towns, it was gold, silver, coal or something else mined that birthed modern civilization. “Durango, Silverton, Leadville,” Gonzales said, to name a few more. “The imprint of geology on human history is enormous, and I think most people never really think about that.” Most people never really think about the deep time on display all around them in Colorado. There is power in that awareness, said Abbott, the University of Colorado professor. “It’s really easy for us to get caught up in the day-to-day and current events and things unfolding on a time scale of one human life,” he said. “It really bends your temporal framework when you start, as I like to say, thinking like a rock.” It can make you feel small, he said. It can make you more appreciative of the time you have and the big, beautiful world around you. It can make you more like that geologist on an unassuming hillside in Walsenburg. Penn took the time to admire something no one else did, but he didn’t linger long. There was so much more to see.

Limestone

Climbing meccas Shelf Road and Rifle Mountain Park are composed of this rock that tends to provide crimped edges and overhang ceilings. Limestone is sedimentary rock composed of calcium carbonate (calcite) and the double carbonate of calcium and magnesium (dolomite).

Basalt

The town sharing the name of the rock can provide something of an education. Basalt was christened for the formation coating a mountain in view: columns that represent volcanic flows frozen solid. Many of these formations are seen around the San Juan Mountains in the southwest.

Gneiss

You’ve got examples of sedimentary and igneous rock. Gneiss (pronounced “nice”) is of the third major category: metamorphic, referring to rocks that have been altered within the Earth’s crust and now feature multicolored layers and bands, such as those at Black Canyon of the Gunnison. — SETH BOSTER

Crested Butte. Christian Murdock

S U M M E R

SPOTLIGHT

Crested Butte

Elk Avenue in Crested Butte. Christian Murdock

BY SETH BOSTER

They call it “the last great ski town.” They, being the outsiders. It’s a popular tag for Crested Butte, where the resort frills are far enough away for the town down the road to maintain its charm and grit. The insiders, meanwhile, might tell you they came for winter but stayed for summer. Some other tags for this mountain hamlet? “Colorado’s Wildflower Capital,” for one. For another: the birthplace of mountain biking. Oh yes, in the 1970s, the people around here were crazy enough to roll down steep, rocky terrain when the bikes weren’t ready for it. This was Crested Butte’s emerging demographic — a wild, hippie

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

bunch replacing the practical, tough miners of yore. Well, the miners were pretty wild too. Some say you can hear their ghosts around the Victorian buildings. The buildings, by the way, sit on rather rudimentary foundations. A historical guide pointed this out to us once: wood simply planted over rock, different from what you might see in towns where gold and silver boomed. “We had coal,” the guide reminded. “We were kind of more poor and deserving.” Nowadays in this scenic getaway, we all feel like rich fools.

Avenue of discovery

The main street, Elk Avenue, shares distinctions of creative district and historic district. That should give you an idea of the overall experience. You’ll find plenty of art galleries, such as Paragon, Redline, Rijks Family and Shaun Horne. But there is no greater proclamation of the town’s commitment to creativity than the elaborate Center for the Arts, which hosts various performances and events. On the historic side, the museum is housed in an old hardware store. You’ll get a feel for the Crested Butte that was — plus a picture with the elk rack declared the biggest ever scored in Colorado. The model town and railroad are other attractions. And then you’ll exit for something modern. The shop called Lavish lives up to its name with jewelry, hats and accessories. Favor the Kind and Milky Way are beloved boutiques. There are other finds to be made at Scout’s General Store and Chopwood Mercantile.

Eats and drinks

Start the day with coffee and a doughnut from the cabin that is Camp 4 Coffee. For something more filling, McGill’s slings sit-down breakfast, everything from pancakes to benedicts and burritos. Secret Stash is one of Crested Butte’s standout eateries, with pizzas true to the eclectic culture. Look no further than the Notorious FIG. BONEZ also matches the funky atmosphere with a twisted take on margaritas and tacos. For elevated, farm-to-table fare, make a reservation at The Sunflower. Soupcon also takes reservations. If you’re unfamiliar with the word, it refers to a small quantity. The restaurant in a cozy cabin promises big flavors. One more cabin to hit: the one known as “the cocktail cabin,” or The Dogwood. But of all places to wet your whistle, you can’t leave without a round at Kochevar’s. The saloon appears unchanged from its 1880s beginnings.

Adventure time

The famous wildflower festival is slated for July 7-16. If you don’t plan on being part of the tours and workshops, that at least gives you a rough time frame to catch the magnificent blooms. If you plan to explore the mountain biking terrain, seek beta from one of the many shops. Big Al’s is downtown, as is Wheelies and Waves, which also can hook you up for fun on the local waters. Off-roading also factors into the outfitter industry, with Pearl Pass among the rowdy roads ascending from town. Much gentler is Kebler Pass, a go-to thoroughfare for adventure. Several trailheads spot the road through a towering aspen forest. Oh Be Joyful Creek near Crested Butte. Christian Murdock

DISCOVER HISTORY

EXPLORE THE PAST AT THE

MANITOU CLIFF DWELLINGS Explore the fascinating architecture of the ancient cliff dwellers and browse through museums featuring cultural displays all overlooking beautiful, historic Manitou Springs.

719-685-5242

CliffDwellingsMuseum.com OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

An epic

around From downtown Denver, the trip to Colorado’s western border along Interstate 70 takes 4 hours, 30 minutes, traveling roughly 280 miles of scenic mountain highway. One of the more trafficked thoroughfares in the state, there are plenty of worthwhile stops for tourists.

1. Coors, The Brewery

Located in Golden just west of the Mile High City, this brewery offers an insightful tour that shows beer lovers how macro-brewery operations are able to fill so many bottles and cans. Visitors are invited to taste several beverage varieties following the tour, but make sure there’s a designated driver for the group.

2. Genesee Park

Home to a historic bison herd with easy access to The Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave, Genesee Park boasts an impressive overlook. So pull off the interstate, shake out the legs and take in a “wild west” view.

COL

3. Indian Hot Springs

Found in the mining town of Idaho Springs, Indian Hot Springs not only features a large mineral water swimming pool, but it’s also home to unique geothermal caves.

4. Georgetown Loop Railroad

Considered to be one of the most scenic train rides in the country, this narrow gauge railroad was one of the state’s first tourist attractions, traveling between charming Georgetown and the former silver mining camp of Silver Plume.

5. Eisenhower-Johnson Memorial Tunnel

While no stopping is allowed, passing through the 1.6-mile tunnel system is pretty spectacular in itself. Reaching an elevation of 11,158 feet, the tunnels are among the highest vehicular tunnels in the world and also stand as the highest point in the U.S. Interstate system.

6. Dillon Reservoir

This scenic stop is an ideal place to go kayaking with a mountainous backdrop. Reserve a rental and spend a few hours paddling around, hopping from island to island. Don’t forget the sunblock!

LORADO By Spencer McKee

7. Dotsero Crater

11. Palisade Wine Country

8. Hanging Lake

12. Colorado National Monument

Just east of the picturesque Glenwood Canyon, Dotsero is home to a sage-covered pit measuring 2,460 feet wide and 250 feet deep, per the U.S. Geological Survey. Years ago, the crater’s depth might’ve been 1,300 feet, the USGS reports.

This Western Slope town boasts more than a dozen wineries, giving locals and visitors alike plenty of options from which to choose. Kick back and relax while enjoying a glass of Colorado wine, but make sure you’ve got a designated driver.

Make a point to visit one of Colorado’s most memorable destinations. Hanging Lake Trail leads hikers to a stunning waterfall scene. Be warned — the hike can be strenuous and a reservation is required.

Established in 1911, this monument features sheer-walled canyons and unique rock formations. They’re best seen via Rim Rock Drive, which winds along the side of a plateau.

9. Glenwood Springs

Go back in time — way back in time. This museum in Fruita offers a hands-on experience that’s all about dinosaurs. Examine real fossils, see a working paleontology laboratory and more.

This mountain town is home to several family-friendly stops, including Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, Iron Mountain Hot Springs and Glenwood Hot Springs Resort. Plus, there are plenty of notable choices when it comes to restaurants.

10. Rifle Falls State Park

One of the greenest spots in the state, Rifle Falls State Park is a welcome stop for visitors. A short walk on a flat path offers incredible views of a trio of 70-foot waterfalls.

13. Dinosaur Journey Museum

14. ‘Welcome to Colorado’ sign

Once you’ve reached the border with Utah, look for one of the classic “Welcome to Colorado” signs. There’s plenty of room to exit safely off the interstate and snap a picture to commemorate the epic road trip.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Castlewood Canyon State Park. Parker Seibold

By Seth Boster

REAL

GEMS Reservoirs are synonymous with Colorado’s state parks. It’s no wonder the government would seek to preserve those precious waters. But not to be overlooked are the geologic wonders at the center of some parks. 16

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ELDORADO CANYON In the sun, the canyon’s conglomerate sandstone shines gold, suggesting the glory climbers have sought for many decades here outside Boulder. The routes are some of the most cherished in all of Colorado. But you don’t have to be a climber to enjoy the vertical dreamscape. You can’t go wrong with the Eldorado Canyon, Rattlesnake Gulch and Crescent Meadows trails. CASTLEWOOD CANYON History knows this as “the paradise on the prairie,” for a reservoir built in 1890 for families in the countryside between Denver and Colorado Springs. The walls that infamously broke in 1933 are still on display. But those aren’t the walls of greatest intrigue. That would be the walls of much deeper time, including the layer of Dawson Arkose that forms a surprise mosaic. CHEYENNE MOUNTAIN After Pikes Peak, the granite-pocked face of Cheyenne Mountain is the next best head-turner around Colorado Springs. And it is best showcased at its namesake state park. The hulking mountain commands envy from 21 trails, which includes the grueling Dixon Trail toward the summit. You and your party might opt to rest at the campground or one of the two cabins.

LORY Arthur’s Rock is one of Fort Collins’ most recognizable promontories, a granite bulge above the trees. It’s the centerpiece of this state park on the west side of Horsetooth Reservoir. The summit is popularly reached via a trail that ends with a brief scramble to the panoramic view. The rock can be admired from much of the 26-mile trail network. ROXBOROUGH This is a geologic wonderland right in Littleton’s backyard, a not-so-distant sibling of Garden of the Gods. The red sandstone decorates flower-spotted meadows, with trails such as Fountain Valley and South Rim affording marvelous, up-close views. Carpenter Peak Trail leads to the park’s high point in a round trip touring 6 1/2 miles. STAUNTON Near Pine, this vast park of fragrant woods, streamfed meadows and waterfalls is guarded by granite walls and spires. They emerged from a formation called Pikes Peak batholiths, formed as Earth’s crust was pushed up from its molten core. Among them is Lions Head and the outcrop enveloping perhaps the park’s greatest draw: Elk Falls.

By a lake. With a charming Main Street. And its own marina with rentals and waterside dining.

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Knowles Overlook Campground. Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

SITES TO BEHOLD There’s nothing quite like crawling out of your tent to Colorado’s cool, crisp mountain air and watching the sunrise color some awe-inspiring view. Most inspiring? Perhaps the sight of some imposing rock that makes you feel small. Here we take a look at some camping spots around the state that feature beautiful outcrops and formations. Amphitheater Campground: The U.S. Forest Service classifies these campsites above Ouray as heavily used. That’s no surprise, considering the accessibility and splendid vistas of the town’s box canyon and the campground’s namesake amphitheater. Some sites designated for reservation; others firstcome, first-served. Browns Canyon: The Chaffee County icon is synonymous with rafting. The Arkansas River stretch between the canyon walls is a go-to for locals and visitors. How about getting to know the place by land? Common launch points are the Ruby Mountain and Hecla Junction campgrounds, managed by Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Devil’s Head Campground: Along Rampart Range Road in the hills beyond Sedalia, this campground gets occupied by rock climbers, who are called to the striking formation seen from a distance all around the Front Range. The firstcome, first-served sites are near Devil’s Head Trail, surrounded by other rock marvels. Eleven Mile Canyon: In recent years, camping has changed in this granite dreamscape cut by the South Platte River near Lake George. The canyon is a staffed recreation area, with a fee for day use and camping only at developed sites. Consider the adjacent state park. Its trails, rock gardens and campgrounds are underrated. 18

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

McInnis Canyons: West of Grand Junction, this mosaic of ruby red walls and cliffs spreads over 123,000 acres of curiosities. Many venture by bike on the renowned Kokopelli Trail. You’ll want a high-clearance vehicle to scout out a base. There are dispersed sites and three campgrounds: Knowles Overlook, Jouflas and Castle Rocks. Pawnee Buttes: You’ll have to do your research to get directions, criss-crossing rutted roads to reach this silent, remote pocket of northeast Colorado. All this trouble for the plains, you ask? No, for these amazing rock promontories that rise like twin pyramids. Dispersed camping available throughout Pawnee National Grassland. Painted Rocks, Red Rocks campgrounds: You’ll see signs for these off Colorado 67 north of Woodland Park. The ponderosa pine hide outcrops and piles similar to Garden of the Gods and Red Rock Canyon Open Space in Colorado Springs. You’ll find the rocks along trails from the campsites, which are available by reservation. Red Feather Lakes: In northern Colorado, this quaint hamlet might’ve been called overlooked not too long ago. It’s been widely discovered, as evidenced by campgrounds that fill fast around sparkling waters and marvelous boulders. Dowdy Lake, Bellaire Lake and West Lake are a few of the popular, family-friendly campgrounds.

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Photo Credit: Pikes Peak - America’s Mountain

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Wheeler Geologic Area. Christian Murdock

OUT OF THIS

WORLD By Seth Boster

Behold the majesty of Wheeler Geologic Area

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

RIO GRANDE NATIONAL FOREST • Near the end of a long, hard path, we were camped in a meadow cast in an otherworldly glow by the setting sun, which along with the evening drizzle created a perfect rainbow. By morning, the moon still hung high, big and bright — another phenomenon suited for this remote, mystical place. From a distance, rock walls could be seen above the trees, hinting at some fortress. But nothing, not even the pictures across the internet, can prepare one for what lay deep in the forest, hidden and protected indeed: Wheeler Geologic Area. As white men began populating this valley in southwest Colorado, they heard talk of a peculiar domain. “The Sandstones,” the native

Utes called it. No record has been found of George M. Wheeler coming by it during his influential surveys in the area in the late 19th century. Nor is it believed John C. Fremont came across the scene earlier during his railroad prospecting. No, this was no place for a railroad. Finally, in 1907, one Frank Spencer managed to complete the gritty trip to the site tucked in the La Garita Mountains. “A truly remarkable site,” went the forest supervisor’s report. “Before us, enhanced by the rays of the setting sun, lay the vista of what seemed to us an enchanted city. Spires and domes, castles and cathedrals, mosques and temples, with their fluted columns and wonderfully carved friezes, were arrayed in a confusing panorama of form and color.” The report was enough for President Theodore Roosevelt the next year to proclaim Colorado’s first national monument: Wheeler National Monument. Early after Roosevelt’s proclamation, it became a popular attraction. Waves of horses and buggies made the arduous journey. Wheeler rivaled Pikes Peak in popularity. But things changed as motors began roaring in America. Twenty-three million automobiles were counted in the country in 1930, up from 8,000 in 1900. And with the National Park Service and the Bureau of Public Roads coming to a broad agreement in 1926, roads were being built across natural wonders. Colorado National Monument’s Rim Rock Drive was finished in 1931. The year after, Trail Ridge Road opened at Rocky Mountain National Park. Great preserves were well on their way to this “loved to death” age as we know it, this age of overcrowding. Meanwhile, with all of its lingering, rugged difficulties,

Wheeler fell out of favor for a vehicle-crazed nation. Wheeler remained reserved for the strong-willed traveler on horseback. It was a lack of funds or a sense of environmentalism or a combination of both that kept the U.S. Forest Service from constructing a road to Wheeler. In 1933, the Forest Service transferred the area to the National Park Service, which also held back on a road. In the 1940s, annual visitation was reportedly a few dozen. In 1950, the monument status was abolished and the land returned to the Forest Service due to “the isolation” and “very limited visitation.” Later, it seemed Wheeler could no longer resist development. There was talk of a resort-style setup, lodging and a restaurant. A logging road was built toward the boundaries in the 1960s — the rocky, rutted track marked as 14 miles long today. But the road stops short of the dreamscape, still out of view from a meadow. That’s because Wheeler was deemed worthy of the hallowed, motorless mandate of the 1964 Wilderness Act, protecting sanctuaries “where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” From that meadow, visitors must hike about a mile uphill through La Garita Wilderness to the geologic area. At the trailhead, signs provide scientific background. “However,” one reads, “the fantasy of Wheeler is in allowing your imagination to run wild.” So we did before the stark, astonishing beauty. We watched the rising sun color the spires and pinnacles. Watched the shadows play between the cracks and crevices of crags stacked like pyramids, or like the spine of a dragon. We watched from the gray surface of an overlook, like the surface of the moon, we imagined. We were on another planet, we presumed. Somewhere far from this world.

WEST YELLOWSTONE • MONTANA

GO anYWhere FROM here.

For activities, dining and lodging info visit:

DestinationYellowstone.com

#HeartOfYellowstone OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Red Rocks Amphitheatre. Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

TUNNEL OF STARS At Red Rocks, a secret passage of signatures

MORRISON • In the days before the start of another summer of music at Red Rocks Amphitheatre, crowds gathered at a sunsplashed pavilion, admiring the hills turning green again. They toured the museum, scanning placards chronicling the decades of legends here. Somewhere below, somewhere in the amphitheater’s dark underbelly, history is also on display — though unbeknownst to the masses. Our escorts showed us to a seemingly out-of-place door of peeling wood and rusted iron, tall but out of sight for concertgoers on the ramp above. “Like something from ‘The Hobbit,’” observed Ben Heinemann, a Red Rocks marketing guy. It was padlocked. “What’s your name again?” a young, bearded crewman asked our other escort, Josh Lenz. The crewman nodded and radioed his supervisor. While we waited, he filled us in on the secret he knew quite well. This is the entrance to Red Rocks’ underground backstage. And here lies a staircase tunnel, where bands have inscribed their names on the concrete floor and walls for years. The crewman thinks he saw Led Zeppelin somewhere in the gaggle of signatures. We go up one ramp and peep into a green room set like a living room — coffee table, sofa, TV — but with a red rock bulging through the wall, spilling onto the carpet. One more ramp, another odd door. “You can see the signatures start here,” Lenz said. So began our scavenger hunt. “Elephant Revival,” Lenz said. “Tenacious D right above.” “Zac Brown,” photographer Christian Murdock said, looking down at his feet.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

“Nine Inch Nails right here,” Lenz said. Stevie Nicks is elsewhere, written above “Mumford + Sons.” Bold, blocky letters announce Wilco and Portugal the Man. Small, fading letters are tucked between a jumbled array: “Grateful De...” For as celebrated as the history is at Red Rocks, this part is a mystery. “Just an organic sort of thing that’s occurred,” said Tad Bowman, the venue director. He’s been involved with Red Rocks for close to four decades and is unaware of anyone who’s been around long enough to speak on the first signatures. Construction plans from 1959 mention a tunnel, so the assumption is this was built sometime around then — a pathway for crews leading to the sound stage. But it’s unclear when this scribbling tradition began. The oldest date we spotted: “7/6/88.” “It’s just faded over time, so who knows if signatures like from the ‘60s and ‘70s are still there anymore,” Lenz said. “Or if they’ve been covered up by other stuff.” Bowman travels the tunnel countless times every summer, sometimes passing performers with marker in hand. It’s mostly been emerging talents, opening acts who consider Red Rocks hallowed, a milestone for them as it was for those before them. “That tunnel has come to represent this special uniqueness of what Red Rocks is,” Bowman said. “People go through there, in a literal sense leaving their mark, adding to this sort of mystique.” It’s felt by the small groups who call to schedule irregular tours. Fans come and go down here, as they do above, coming and going like the stars of today and the legends of yesterday, all walking that thread through history.

LET’S ROCK By Jennifer Mulson

Red Rocks Amphitheatre in Morrison. Kent Nishimura

State’s most famous venue offers grand summer lineup

You haven’t seen a concert until you’ve seen one at Red Rocks Amphitheatre in Morrison. Not much compares to perching on a concrete and wood seat, surrounded by monolithic, 300-foot sandstone walls, and watching your favorite musicians perform, all while taking in the gorgeous Colorado plains behind them. You wouldn’t be called hyperbolic for using the word breathtaking. Almost every night for the next several months, the venue will percolate with music from all genres — jam band, hip-hop, rock, bluegrass, singer-songwriter, electronic, rap, country — and some comedy too. Here are a few highlights:

May 15-16: Dermot Kennedy — The Irish singer-songwriter is best known for his 2019 single “Outnumbered,” off his debut album “Without Fear.” May 27-28: Old Dominion (pictured, top) — The country band is bringing its hits “Break Up With Him,” “Make it Sweet,” “One Man Band” and “No Such Thing as a Broken Heart.” May 31-June 1: Lord Huron — The indie rock band’s single “The Night We Met” has been streamed a billion-plus times. June 7-8: King Gizzard & The Lizard Wizard — The Australian rock band has 23 albums to its name, including five released in 2017. June 10: Big Head Todd and the Monsters, with Grace Potter. June 16-17: Umphrey’s McGee, with moe. June 23-25: Widespread Panic (pictured, middle) — The jam band doesn’t monkey with tradition. As of last June, the group held the record for most sold-out shows (66) at Red Rocks. June 26-27: Zach Bryan. June 29: The Head and The Heart. July 4: Blues Traveler, with Railroad Earth and North Mississippi Allstars. July 7-9: The Avett Brothers — The popular indie folk band, fronted by brothers Seth and Scott Avett, returns once again to the iconic stage.

July 28-29: Tedeschi Trucks Band, with Vincent Neil Emerson — In 2022, the Grammy Award-winning blues rock band dropped “I Am the Moon,” a quadruple album released in four parts. Aug. 1-2: Zach Williams, We The Kingdom, CAIN, Anne Wilson, Blessing Offor, Hope Darst — Zach Williams will headline a night of Christian musicians. Aug. 15-16: Beck and Phoenix. Aug. 19: Reggae on the Rocks. Aug. 25-26: My Morning Jacket — Visit with the longtime rock band and its hits “One Big Holiday,” “Circuital,” “Evil Urges” and “The Waterfall.” Aug. 28-29: Duran Duran — Popular in the 1970s, ‘80s and ‘90s, the rock group’s biggest hits include “Hungry Like the Wolf,” “Rio,” “Girls on Film” and “A View to a Kill.” Sept. 8-9: Brandi Carlile (pictured, bottom) — Catch the Grammy Award-winning singer-songwriter while you still can, as she recently said she was preparing to take a long break later this year. Sept. 15-16: Greensky Bluegrass. Sept. 27-28: Tyler Childers — The country, bluegrass and folk singer-songwriter’s latest album, “Can I Take My Hounds to Heaven?,” hit No. 8 on the Billboard 200. OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Garden of the Gods. Mark Reis

GARDEN GROWTH A prehistoric timeline of renowned red rocks By Seth Boster

One pivotal year in the history of Garden of the Gods: 1909. That’s when Charles Elliott Perkins, through his children, donated the property to the city of Colorado Springs on the premise that it “be kept forever free to the public.” Now it is a postcard destination, a wondrous domain of red rocks. It would not be that were it not for more pivotal years that saw Mother Nature slowly morph the landscape into what it is today. The slabs, spires and ridges tell of those years. With knowledge and a careful eye, “one can tell if the rock was once part of a stream, a sand dune, a swamp or an underwater sea floor,” wrote a park naturalist, Melissa Walker, in a guide to the Garden. Here’s a prehistoric timeline:

~320-300 million years ago: A mountain range is eroding. Streams send rock, sand and silt down steep slopes. The sediment is cemented into a mixture of sandstone to be called the Fountain Formation, to later be uplifted and sculpted by wind and water. The Fountain Formation accounts for rocks on the west side of Garden of the Gods, including Balanced Rock and Siamese Twins. ~300-260 million years ago: Winds are swirling at the edge of the mountains and giant sand dunes are building. These harden and form Lyons sandstone. Time and erosion eventually shape these into what are the most prominent outcrops at the Garden: the central Gateway rocks, Sleeping Giant, Gray Rock and White Rock. ~260-250 million years ago: A shallow sea moves in, bringing with it minerals to be contained in limestone. Once lifted and exposed, this Lykins Formation will show wavy lines recalling this aquatic era. These can be seen today on gray faces along Ridge Trail. ~155-148 million years ago: The shallow sea retreats and a swampy landscape prevails. The Stegosaurus is among creatures foraging around. These are creatures of the Jurassic period. Their remains will be found in the Morrison Formation.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

~112-100 million years ago: A Cretaceous sea advances. Bulky herbivores walk along the shores. A unique type of Iguanodon will be discovered at Garden of the Gods within rock of the Dakota Group, which also reveals ripples reminiscent of waves during that time. These can be seen in the grayish outcrops at the south side of the park near Rock Ledge Ranch. ~100-88 million years ago: Volcanoes erupt far west; ash settles on the sea bed. This creates the dark rock to be called Benton shale. It forms the area of the park west of Niobrara Ridge. Niobrara refers to a later formation, when more sediment and lifeforms settled on a deeper ocean floor. ~80-70 million years ago: A mountain building event is underway. The uplift bends, breaks and thrusts layers of rock upward, through the sea that will fade away. The cataclysmic era is known as the Larimide orogeny, responsible for delivering the Rocky Mountains as we know them. ~2 million-10,000 years ago: Ice Age animals roam around the red rocks to be called Garden of the Gods, backdropped by the mountain to be called Pikes Peak. Glaciers move across the highest elevations, carving alpine valleys. Source: “Geology: Rock Remnants of Ancient Lands, Life and Seas,” Garden of the Gods official guide

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OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

60 SUMMER FESTIVALS AROUND COLORADO

By Carlotta Olson

MAY 25-27: Quilt, Craft and Sewing Festival, Douglas County Fairgrounds, Castle Rock; quiltcraftsew.com. MAY 26-28: Comedy Festival: With headliners from HBO, CBS, NBC and more, Vail; vailcomedyfestival.com. MAY 26-28: Blues, Brews & BBQ Festival, Beaver Creek; beavercreek.com. MAY 26-29: Boulder Creek Festival: Artisan market, food, concerts and more, Boulder; bouldercoloradousa.com. MAY 26-29: CKS Paddle-Fest: Clinics and competitions along the Arkansas River, Buena Vista; ckspaddlefest.com. MAY 26-29: Grand Old West Days: Rodeo action, live music and more, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com. MAY 27-28: BBQ Festival, Empower Field at Mile High, Denver; qbbqdenver.com. MAY 27-29: Territory Days: Memorial Day weekend tradition draws a crowd, Old Colorado City; shopoldcoloradocity.com. JUNE 2-3: Summerfest on the Rio: Food and activities for all ages, Cole Park, Alamosa; summerfestontherio.org. JUNE 2-3: Mike the Headless Chicken Festival: Iconic Colorado celebration, Fruita; miketheheadlesschicken.org. JUNE 2-4: Animas River Days: River surfing, inflatable rodeos and more, Durango; animasriverdays.com. JUNE 4-23: Summer Music Festival, Colorado College, Colorado Springs; coloradocollege.edu. JUNE 7-11: Star Fest: For astronomers and stargazers, Lake City; lakecity.com. JUNE 8-11: Denver Fringe Arts Festival: Diverse artistic voices, RiNo Art District, Denver; denverfringe.org. JUNE 8-11: GoPro Mountain Games: All about extreme summer sports with live music, Vail; mountaingames.com. JUNE 9-16: Lit Fest: Celebration of literary arts, Denver; lighthousewriters.org. JUNE 11-AUG. 13: Colorado Shakespeare Festival: Second oldest U.S. festival of its kind, Boulder; cupresents.org. JUNE 14-17: Rocky Mountain Mustang Roundup: Rev up those engines in an old mining town, Cripple Creek; rockymountainmustangroundup.org. JUNE 15-18: Sonic Bloom Festival: Electronic music festival, Hummingbird Ranch, Rye; sonicbloomfestival.com. JUNE 15-18: FIBArk: First in Boating on the Arkansas is America’s oldest whitewater festival, Salida; fibark.com. JUNE 16-18: Strawberry Days Festival, Glenwood Springs; strawberrydays.com. JUNE 16-18: Gem and Mineral Show: Vendors selling rocks from across the state, Victor; victorcolorado.com. JUNE 17-AUG. 6: Colorado Renaissance Festival: Step back in time at weekend medieval celebration, Larkspur; coloradorenaissance.com. JUNE 21-24: Whittle the Wood Festival: Elite chainsaw artists carving masterpieces, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com. JUNE 22-25: Jazz Aspen Snowmass June Experience: Music will be played at 12 venues, Aspen; jazzaspensnowmass.org. JUNE 22-AUG. 3: Bravo! Vail Music Festival: Celebrating more than 30 years of music, Vail; bravovail.org. JUNE 23-25: Scandinavian Midsummer Festival: Vikings, beer and dancing, Bond Park, Estes Park; estesmidsummer.com. JUNE 23-25: Colorado Lavender Festival: Vendors, crafts, tours and more, Palisade; coloradolavender.org. JUNE 24-25: Colorado Tiny House Festival: It’s a weekend to spotlight everything tiny, Brighton; coloradotinyhousefestival.com. JUNE 24-25: Bacon and Bourbon Festival, Keystone; keystonefestivals.com. 26

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

JUNE 24-AUG. 6: Central City Opera Festival: Adaptations of Shakespearean tales, Central City; centralcityopera.org. JUNE 30-JULY 15: Green Box Arts Festival: Summer staple features more than 50 performances, Green Mountain Falls; greenboxarts.org. JULY 1-3: Cherry Creek Arts Festival: Wide variety of arts, Cherry Creek North, Denver; cherrycreekartsfestival.org. JULY 6-9: High Mountain Hay Fever Bluegrass Festival, Bluff and Summit Park, Westcliffe; highmountainhayfever.org. JULY 6-30: Music in the Mountains: Classical music with a view, Durango; musicinthemountains.com. JULY 7-8: Brewers Rendezvous: 70 Colorado craft brewers, Riverside Park, Salida; salidachamber.org. JULY 7-16: Wildflower Festival, Crested Butte; crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com. JULY 8: Troutfest Colorado, Coors Field, Denver; coloradotu.org. JULY 14-16: Gold Rush Days: Tractor pull, parade, mining games and more, Victor; victorcolorado.com. JULY 14-16: Pearl Street Arts Fest, Boulder; bouldercoloradousa.com. JULY 14-16: SnowyGrass: Bluegrass Festival, Estes Park; snowygrass.com. JULY 15-16: Wine & Jazz Festival, Keystone; keystonefestivals.com. JULY 15-16: Mile High Global Bazaar: Celebration of international cultures, Skyline Park, Denver; coloradoevents.org. JULY 21-22: Global Dance Festival: 20th anniversary of dancing extravaganza, Empower Field at Mile High, Denver; globaldancefestival.com. JULY 21-22: Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival: To promote the great outdoors, Cañon City; royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com. JULY 22-23: Colorado Dragon Boat Festival: Largest of its kind in the U.S., Sloan’s Lake Park, Denver; cdbf.org. JULY 28-30: Burro Days: Burro races, llama races, parade, live music and more, Fairplay; fairplayco.us. JULY 28-30: Buffalo Bill Days: Parade, car show, food and more, Parfet Park, Golden; goldenbuffalobilldays.com. JULY 28-AUG. 7: International Dance Festival: Featuring ballet, modern dance and more, Vail; vaildance.org. JULY 29-30: VegFest Colorado: Celebration of plant-based living, Tivoli Quad, Denver; vegfestco.com. JULY 30-AUG. 11: Frequent Flyers Aerials Dance Festival: Dancing in the air, Boulder; frequentflyers.org. AUG. 4-6: Leadville Boom Days: Historic town hosts burro races, parade, car show and more, Leadville; leadvilletwinlakes.com. AUG. 5-6: Colorado Scottish Festival: British cars, piping and drumming, and more, Edgewater; scottishgames.org. AUG. 10-12: Beanstalk Music and Mountain Festival: Three days of music, yoga, Bond; beanstalkfestival.com. AUG. 11-13: Sculpture in the Park: Largest U.S. outdoor juried show, Loveland; sculptureinthepark.org. AUG. 11-13: Rocky Mountain Folks Festival: World-class songwriters of all genres will take the stage, Lyons; bluegrass.com. AUG. 12-13: Living History Days: Gunfights, period costumes and much more, Fairplay; fairplayco.us. AUG. 16-20: Mushroom Festival: It’s a celebration of all things fungi, Telluride; tellurideinstitute.org. AUG. 18-19: Peach Festival, Riverbend Park, Palisade; palisadecoc.com. AUG. 18-20: Buffalo Days: BBQ, music, fireworks and more in a scenic locale, Grand Lake; gograndlake.com.

RODEOS, FAIRS RODEOS

& FIREWORKS

JUNE 1-4: Elizabeth Stampede Rodeo, Arena at Casey Jones Park, Elizabeth; elizabethstampede.com. JUNE 1-AUG. 17: Wild West Rodeo Series, Thursdays, Gus Darien Riding Area, Carbondale; carbondalerodeo.com. JUNE 8-10: Ute Mountain Round-Up Rodeo, Montezuma County Fairgrounds, Cortez; utemountainroundup.org. JUNE 9-11: Top of the World Rodeo, Teller County Fairgrounds, Cripple Creek; visitcripplecreek.com. JUNE 21-AUG. 16: Snowmass Rodeo, Wednesdays, Snowmass Rodeo Grounds, Snowmass Village; snowmassrodeo.org.

AROUND COLORADO

By Carlotta Olson

JUNE 22-JULY 4: Greeley Stampede, Island Grove, Greeley; greeleystampede.org. JUNE 23-24: Colorado Championship Ranch Rodeo, Lincoln County Fairgrounds, Hugo; seelincolncounty.com. JULY 1-AUG. 12: High Country Stampede Rodeo, Saturdays, John Work Arena, Fraser; highcountrystampede.com. JULY 2-4: Red Ryder Roundup Rodeo, Pagosa Springs; pagosarodeo.com. JULY 5-10: Rooftop Rodeo, Estes Park; rooftoprodeo.com. JULY 11-15: Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo, Norris-Penrose Event Center, Colorado Springs; pikespeakorbust.org. JULY 13-15: Cattlemen’s Days, Gunnison; cattlemensdays.com.

FAIRS JULY 7-16: Custer County Fair, Westcliffe; visitwetmountainvalley.com. JULY 7-16: Park County Fair, Fairplay; parkcofair.com. JULY 11-15: Mesa County Fair, Grand Junction; mesacountyfair.com. JULY 15-22: El Paso County Fair, Calhan; elpasocountyfair.com. JULY 21-29: Montrose County Fair, Montrose; montrosecountyfairandrodeo.com. JULY 22-31: Weld County Fair, Greeley; weldcountyfair.com. JULY 23-30: Garfield County Fair, Rifle; garfieldcountyfair.com. JULY 27-30: Arapahoe County Fair, Aurora; arapahoecountyfair.com. JULY 27-AUG. 6: Logan County Fair, Sterling; lcfair.org. JULY 28-AUG. 6: Douglas County Fair, Castle Rock; douglascountyfairandrodeo.com.

JULY 29-AUG. 6: Elbert County Fair, Kiowa; elbertcountyfair.com. JULY 29-AUG. 6: Delta County Fair, Hotchkiss; deltacountyfair.com. AUG. 2-6: Adams County Fair, Brighton; adamscountyfair.com. AUG. 4-8: Larimer County Fair, The Ranch, Loveland; larimercountyfair.org. AUG. 4-12: Moffat County Fair, Craig; visitmoffatcounty.com. AUG. 5-12: San Luis Valley Fair, Monte Vista; slvfair.com. AUG. 7-12: Lincoln County Fair, Hugo; seelincolncounty.com. AUG. 6-13: Grand County Middle Park Fair, Kremmling; middleparkfairandrodeo.com. AUG. 10-13: Boulder County Fair, Longmont; bouldercountyfair.org. AUG. 25-SEPT. 4: Colorado State Fair, Pueblo; coloradostatefair.com.

FOURTH OF JULY JULY 1 Lafayette: Independence Day Fun & Fireworks: Waneka Lake; lafayettecolorado.com. Limon: Independence Day Celebration: Plenty of events; seelincolncounty.com. JULY 1-4 Granby: July 4th Celebration: Pancake breakfast, bike parade, fireworks and more; destinationgranby.com. Winter Park: Celebrate the 4th: Concerts, fun run and more; playwinterpark.com. JULY 3 Littleton: Red, White & You: Fun-filled patriotic community event, Clement Park; ifoothills.org. JULY 3-4 Creede: Street festival, vendors, live music, fireworks and more; creede.com. JULY 4 Arvada: Independence Day Fireworks: Stenger Soccer Complex; arvadafestivals.com. Boulder: Ralphie’s Independence Day Blast: Night sky drone show, Folsom Field; boulder4thofjuly.com. Breckenridge: Independence Day Celebration: Parade, music and more; gobreck.com. Buena Vista: Music, parade and fireworks; buenavistacolorado.org.

Colorado Springs: Star Spangled Symphony & Fourth of July Fireworks: 10-plus community fireworks displays; coloradospringssports.org. Cripple Creek: Gold Camp 4th: Music, fireworks and more; visitcripplecreek.com. Denver: Zeds Dead & Friends Backyard Jamboree: Music will take center stage, Civic Center Park; civiccenterpark.org. Durango: Salute to America: Pancakes, fireworks and more; durango.org. Fairplay: Independence Celebration: Parade, fireworks and more; fairplayco.us. Highlands Ranch: 5K, parade and fireworks; hrcaonline.org. La Junta: Old Fashioned Fourth of July: Parade, cannon firings and more, Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site; visitlajunta.net. Monument and Palmer Lake: Tri-Lakes 4th of July: Pancake breakfast, parade, street fair, townofmonument.org. Silverton: Parade and fireworks; silvertoncolorado.com. Snowmass Village: Live music and sweet treats; gosnowmass.com. Vail: Vail America Days: Parade and evening celebration; vailamericadays.com. Westcliffe: Parade and fireworks; visitwetmountainvalley.com. Woodland Park: Old-fashioned celebration above the clouds, Memorial Park; woodlandparkchamber.com. OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Palmer Park. Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

ROCK ‘N’ ROLL From Hartman Rocks near Gunnison and the rock-festooned desert of Fruita to the technical spoils around Crested Butte, Colorado mountain bikers have no shortage of far-flung destinations to test their skills. But those on the Front Range need not go far for black-rated challenges. WALKER RANCH, BOULDER It’s been called “the hardest 8 miles of mountain biking in Boulder.” Take it from the folks at Boulder Mountain Bike Alliance: Their website describes “ridiculously steep climbs with rock fins, loose kitty-litter turns” and an “unrideable (well, nearly) 100-foot staircase in the middle.” Those steps lead down to a creek — one bit of eye candy along the way. The loop is reached via the scenic, leg-burning Flagstaff Road, which is the rite of passage for local roadies. Walker Ranch is that for mountain bikers. PALMER PARK, COLORADO SPRINGS The 3-year-old, multi-stage Pikes Peak Apex seeks to put Colorado Springs on the world map as a mountain biking destination. It’s no surprise, then, that the weekend starts with a prologue in Palmer Park. Indeed, the preserve of bluffs, hoodoos and rock shelves is a spectacular introduction to riding around the city’s foothills. And there might be no greater initiation than the white-knuckling Templeton Trail, a loop around the upper, rugged rims.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

DAKOTA RIDGE, DENVER It seems miraculous this wild sliver exists between two of the busiest highways in the metro, Colorado 470 and Interstate 70. If you manage to keep your rear on the saddle, that might be miraculous too. This chunky, arching spine humbles most. Including a bike-only portion on the south end, Dakota Ridge Trail spans about 3 1/2 miles one way. Afterward, catch a break on gentler trails weaving the adjacent Matthews/Winters Park. ROYAL GORGE PARK, CAÑON CITY Oil Well Flats is the more talked-about trail system around Cañon City. But we’re spotlighting this more recently developed network covering the north side of the most iconic landmark in the area. It’s hard to beat the Royal Gorge views from the Canyon Rim and Point Alta Vista trails. For the gnar, you’ve got to check out the latest addition: Royal Cascade Trail, which connects the trail system down to Tunnel Drive for a fast, thrilling descent (or a lung-busting, likely walk-a-bike ascent). The ride is closed in June and July for lambing.

Lake Como Road. R. Scott Rappold

By Seth Boster

ROCKY ROADS For the miners who sought to tame Colorado’s mountains, the road wasn’t easy. As is evident from some of the wicked paths blazed in those days, riddled with boulders, creek crossings, narrow passages and steep drop-offs. These are the hair-raising, bone-rattling trails attempted today by brave souls in Jeeps and ATVs.

Alpine Loop With portals in Lake City, Ouray and Silverton, the rough, 63-mile circuit accesses some of the state’s most awe-inspiring beauty. Venturing to the two highest branches — Engineer and Cinnamon passes above 12,000 feet — will require the proper vehicle and skill set. Imogene Pass It’s commonly recommended to travel from Telluride, starting up Tomboy Road, namesake for the abandoned town site you’ll reach after a tight, steep and twisting ascent on the side of an unforgiving canyon. The pass tops out above 13,000 feet, then descends to Ouray. Lake Como Road Take it from this 2022 headline: “Fatal rollover crash occurs on Colorado’s ‘most rugged’ road.” That’s the reputation of this savage stretch, rising over rock walls and talus fields in the Sangre de Cristo mountains. Drivers are known to dare with specialized crawlers. Pearl Pass The challenging trail rumbles over rock fields and shelves for about 22 miles between Crested Butte and Aspen. Be advised: Conditions are worsened in heavy snow years, with the top sometimes blocked through the summer. Be ready to share the road with mountain bikers. Schofield Pass It’s a tale of two sides. From Marble, it’s a much easier proposition en route to the much-photographed Crystal Mill. From there, onward to Crested Butte, it is a flat-out dangerous trek through the Devil’s Punch Bowl, notorious for claiming man and machine. Tincup Pass The trail travels about 13 miles between once-booming mining towns gone silent: Tincup and St. Elmo. Their relics remain nestled high on the range beyond Buena Vista, with the paved Cottonwood Pass and Taylor Reservoir serving as a scenic entry.

The Ride Of Your Life. Colorado springs residents receive a special 25% discount.*

Steal away a day on the award-winning, historic Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Climb aboard and leave your worries behind. From the open air gondola to the breathtaking views from your private window, this is a scenic train ride unlike any other. Join us for a day trip through the unspoiled Rocky Mountain West. Vibrant and beautiful as always. Depart from Antonito, Colorado or Chama, New Mexico. The modern world can wait while you take the ride of a lifetime.

* Reservations must be made by phone and a valid Colorado Springs address is required to qualify for this discount.

book now at cumbrestoltec.com 1-888-286-2737

America’s most historic scenic railroad OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

The Rock Hut.

TREASURE

TROVES A look at Colorado’s old rock shops

Colorado’s oldest rock shops “He had a love of rocks and date to the 1970s, a time that rock hunting that would not go stirs nostalgia and visions of an away,” they write on the webopen road and a changing Amersite. ica. These were stops along the That love never went away way. Stops to escape social and for Tammy Girardot. She had a By Seth Boster political strife for little worlds rock tumbler as a kid. Now she of Earth’s wonders. has a shop: High Country Gems They are still that. Take, for example, The Rock Hut, which and Minerals, a staple in Glenwood Springs since 1971. Jim and Irene Witmer opened in 1974 in Leadville to proud“When people ask us about rocks, we say, ‘Do you want ly represent the town’s mining heritage above 10,000 feet. the geological or metaphysical?’” Girardot says. Now the shop is in the hands of their son and daughter, who And so the shops are places to get a down-to-earth educafondly recall childhood treasure hunts in the local hills. tion and to also expand the mind. They are places to find “That sort of backfired on us,” Dan Witmer says. “The the first item of your collection and just the next one for shop got too busy in the summer so we couldn’t go rock your world-class stash. hunting as much.” Goes the billing at Nature’s Own, another family-owned The shop is still busy in the summer, catching the eyes of store in Breckenridge opened in the ‘80s: “We have someboth the curious and crazed walking along Harrison Ave- thing for everyone, from the amateur rockhound to the nue. Inside The Rock Hut, they’ll find gems and minerals of serious collector.” the world. They’ll find fossils too — most recently parts of a At High Country Gems and Minerals, experts have called mosasaur alongside prehistoric fish and birds. the seven-pointed star geode “a miracle.” It was brought Also, they’ll find the hand tools they need to go out and do to Glenwood by a former shop owner named Patti “Rock what the pioneering prospectors did. Star.” “People still go out and gold pan,” Witmer says. “Oh yeah, “It’s like a little museum here,” Girardot says. people still got gold fever.” As it is at The Rock Doc, the unmistakable, red-roof hub They’ve got the intrigue that has gripped people through- off U.S. 285 between Buena Vista and Salida. For 50 years, out time. It’s an intrigue told by the cultural and metaphys- the Doc has treated obsessives with Colorado’s signature ical aspects of some stones and crystals. treasures: aquamarine, smoky quartz, amazonite, fluorite Of everything inside San Juan Gems in Cortez, those as- and topaz among them. pects are favorites of the owning Sanchez family. The shop “Come see what the world is made of,” goes the motto. website lists quartz, jasper, amethyst and more for healing. You can do it inside the shops, or you can do it outside. The site also lists dinosaur bones and much more — a collec- As Witmer did as a child around Leadville between busy tion expanding since the founding days of J.B. Sanchez in the summer days at The Rock Hut. He still goes out whenever ‘60s. His son, daughter-in-law and grandson continue cutting he gets the chance. slabs, smithing, polishing and collecting in his honor. “It’s fun to find stuff,” he says. 30

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

By Seth Boster

Mount Antero and Mount White. Parker Seibold

ROUGH AND ROWDY Ultimate treasure hunt takes place on Mount Antero

MOUNT ANTERO • The road is even worse than before, steep and slim and boulder-strewn as always, but now with avalanche debris and rivers running wider and deeper. The Jeep blasts through the water, and the ascent continues on one of Colorado’s most notorious roads — the jagged, bone-rattling, white-knuckling, heart-pounding track toward the 14,269foot summit. The mountain boasts North America’s highest gem field, and its aquamarine crystals are considered world-class. “Blue fever” might’ve been detected as early as 1885. Mark Jacobson, a geologist and author of “Antero Aquamarines,” traces pioneer awareness to that year, when a letter of discovery was penned. Access to the gem field was hard-earned on foot. Then, following his World War II service, Grady Cardwell and a rugged bunch got the idea to carve a road, their interest being the beryllium up high that had some demand at the time. “How did you get it done, granddad?” Craig Cardwell recalls asking the old man. The response: “Lots of whiskey, lots of dynamite, lots of fortitude.” Grady Cardwell’s beryllium venture was short-lived. But the road was blazed for the next generation of rockhounds, including his grandson. Craig and his wife oversee Mount Antero Treasures, where they craft jewelry from their finds above timberline. Aquamarine has been Craig’s focus since the new century, as it has for many dreamers — some with ill intent. Robert Spomer, the owner of Buena Vista Gem Works whose Antero interest dates to the 1970s, has observed a cultural shift. Once, “no one much cared if you went up there

and prospected around, unless you went poaching directly in the active hole they were working in,” he writes on his website. Now, “claim holders tend to be much more ‘in your face’ and confrontational.” Yes, it seems the Wild West has caught up to Antero. “Some of these guys in the business, man, they’re pretty sketchy,” Cardwell says. “They catch you on their claims, we’ve heard horrific stories of gunfights, people being beat up pretty bad.” Some lose sleep down at camp, fearing a “high grader” above, a thief in the night snatching riches from half-dug pockets. On the road, claimants look for friends and possible foes, strangers with picks and shovels in tow. To an extent, under the terms of “casual use” defined by law, outsiders can scavenge federal ground without a permit. But land managers warn of intruding, especially with Antero’s slopes proliferated with claims, some marked, some not. To be sure of their locations, one is directed to the county courthouse to pull records and maps. Or, one can try for a claim. It’s a fairly straightforward process through the Bureau of Land Management. Amy Titterington, a U.S. Forest Service geologist assigned to Antero, has seen the shouting matches, the tense standoffs. She’s seen more miners daring the extreme elements and more flights for life. Other conflicts have come from an increased number of fortune-seeking vagrants, she writes in an email. “An increased Forest Service or law enforcement presence would help alleviate some of these issues, but ultimately it’s up to the claimant to protect their claim.” OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

By Seth Boster

STONE SAVVY

Mount Antero. Parker Seibold

Colorado residents live for finding rock in a hard place

Every child must grow up. Sandra Gonzales grew up to be a mother, to work in the healthcare industry for 25 years. But she never grew out of her childhood passion. “We went camping every weekend,” she recalls of her Denver upbringing. “We were in the mountains every weekend. And I would be looking around the ground wherever we were.” She would fill her chest of drawers with rocks, adding weight until the thing broke and her dad had to hammer it back together. Now Gonzales stocks a colorful collection in a wagon in her front yard — a collection for the neighborhood kids. They are free to take whatever they’d like. Older kids such as Gonzales, meanwhile, gather twice a year for Colorado’s biggest celebration of all things rock. Gonzales puts on the Denver Mineral, Fossil, Gem and Jewelry Show, a week-long extravaganza starting Sept. 8 at the National Western Complex. Sellers and buyers from around the world converge in the thousands for what Gonzales calls “nature’s art:” crystals and precious stones from the earth, rocks from space, remains from the days of dinosaurs. Gonzales is the proud organizer, opting for a place behind the scenes. But, oh yes, she’s very much like everyone else in the crowd: committed to finding the perfect rock. How to describe her fellow rock hounds? Simple, she says. 32

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“We’re rock crazy.” So crazy that they might hike or drive the rutted, treacherous track up 14,000-foot Mount Antero for rare aquamarine. Gonzales has a claim off the mountain, as she does west of Colorado Springs in the hills of Lake George. The area is renowned for amazonite and smoky quartz. Gonzales also has scrounged around the high elevations of Alma for that land’s great reward: red rhodochrosite. How to describe Gonzales’ “crazy” tribe? They are, she says, a mix of geologists with fancy degrees and raggedy youngsters and old-timers with little to no formal education. They know what they’ve read or learned out in the wild. Hound long enough, Gonzales says, and you start to recognize “clues” leading to rich pockets: fault lines and pegmatites. If you’re starting out, she recommends getting with one of Colorado’s several local clubs dedicated to the hobby. That’s how Gonzales returned to her childhood passion. For the past decade or so, since leaving her healthcare career behind, rocks have been her pursuit. The childhood curiosity bred by Colorado’s mountains never left. Similarly, her mother can’t resist the adventure. “She just turned 85,” Gonzales says. “The season’s coming up, so she’s been doing her treadmill and walking. You gotta keep it going, you know.”

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Glenwood Canyon. Christian Murdock

Eating, drinking, hiking and more in Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley

LIVE LIKE

A LOCAL

By Seth Boster

As winter turned to spring, Dean Kinkel was starting to dream of summer in a Colorado land of mountains, river-cut canyons and urban spoils. After seasons of well-above-average snowpack, Kinkel was dreaming of what he and his buddies call “the quadruple” from their Glenwood Springs homes. “We’ll go up to Independence Pass and ski; we did that a couple of years ago on July 1,” he said. “Then you come back down and you ride your bike. ... Then you move down and float the Roaring Fork from Carbondale to Glenwood. Then at Glenwood, you put out at Two Rivers (Park) and you start barbecuing.” From Glenwood to Aspen to Carbondale, it all speaks to the possibilities of the Roaring Fork Valley in the summer. “You can pick anything you want to do,” Kinkel said. We asked him and other locals for tips.

DEAN KINKEL, Glenwood Springs On the water: Early in the season, I like to do the Roaring Fork. I like to put in at Ironbridge and take out at the most popular spot — that’s Two Rivers (1). As it gets late in the year, definitely transition to the Colorado River. Glenwood Canyon is great, but it gets a lot more traffic. I put in at Two Rivers and float west to South Canyon. A hike that’s not Hanging Lake: No Name Trail. I like that you’re always by the water. You’re kind of in a canyon so, especially on a hot day, you can get some cool shade. For breakfast: I always bring people to Sweet Coloradough (2). Must eat: Hands down my favorite restaurant is Frida Authentic Mexican Restaurant. It’s by far the best Mexican I’ve had in the state. Not to overlook: Glenwood has a nine-hole golf course (3). You can walk that in two hours or get a cart. For a casual golfer like me, it’s about perfect. Elsewhere in the valley: New Castle has a ton of good mountain biking (4). Also from New Castle, you have super great access to the Flat Tops Wilderness for camping, and there’s lakes for fishing up there. And New Castle has my favorite pizza place: Hogback Pizza (5). 34

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(1) The put-in spot is at the confluence of the Roaring Fork and Colorado rivers. Also great for fishing and a picnic, with grills and playgrounds. (2) Known for big, irresistible doughnuts. But don’t sleep on the melty, flavor-packed breakfast sandwiches. (3) Boasting panoramic views of Mount Sopris, Glenwood Springs Golf Club has been around since 1955. (4) The valley has garnered a rare, gold-level ride center distinction from International Mountain Bicycling Association. (5) Dough made from scratch each morning coupled with a stone oven equals a high-quality pizza. (6) If not riding a bike, vehicle access to the postcard site is limited to bus rides that require a reservation and fee. (7) This trail is a popular workout site so expect crowds throughout the day. (8) A huge, unusual menu of wraps, salads and Southwest flavors. Can’t leave without grabbing a smoothie and a bag of zesty corn chips. (9) Wine, sake and cocktails to go with sushi and small plates. Locations in Aspen, Snowmass and Carbondale. (10) Small venue attracts big performers in an intimate, memorable setting. (11) Paved recreation path offers miles of scenic riding along the Colorado River through Glenwood Canyon. (12) Mountainside attractions with a spectacular view: roller coasters, cave tours and eats. (13) Not the only landmark bearing the outlaw’s name. Take the short hike to his grave while in town. (14) This 1950s-themed diner serves up quality food and plenty of nostalgia. (15) Come for the parade and stick around for the free strawberries and ice cream.

JOJO COFFEY, Aspen On your bike: I love going to the Maroon Bells (6). Or get on the Rio Grande Trail. It’s a mix of paved and soft gravel, and you can take it from Aspen all the way to Glenwood. Go-to hike: Ute Trail (7). You gain like over 1,000 feet in just about a mile. Once you get to the top, you have great views. And then if you’re feeling brave, you can keep going to the top of Aspen Mountain. For lunch: You gotta go to Big Wrap (8). It’s the best, cheapest lunch in Aspen. For dinner: I really like Campo de Fiori for Italian. They have an amazing espresso martini, and the bar staff is really fun and lively. And then I like Kenichi (9) for their happy hour. More nightlife: Anytime at Belly Up (10) is a great time. Check the website for shows. If you see something you really like, you want to buy the ticket because they do sell out. Elsewhere in the valley: Carbondale is really up and coming. For a good dive bar, pop into The Black Nugget. Good food there is Phat Thai.

TARA HARMAN, Glenwood Springs Perfect family spot: Horseshoe Bend. It’s right off the Glenwood Canyon bike path (11), right when you enter Glenwood Canyon. We’ve got a little girl, and one of our favorite things to do is ride our bikes there and we picnic and we play by the river. Also for the family: We do our weekends at Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park (12). There’s always something fun going on. We’ll go up there with friends and grab a beer, and the kids run around and we hang out and listen to music. Unlikely family spot: We’re fans of Doc Holliday’s Saloon (13). The kids love it because there’s so much to see in there. A local staple: 19th Street Diner (14) is one of our faves to grab an inexpensive, great bite to eat. Great deal: It’s hard to beat the Riviera Scratch Kitchen’s Wine Wednesday. It’s an awesome event and a great patio. Mark your calendar: Strawberry Days (15) is June 16-18. It’s our 126th annual. It started as a celebration of community, and it still is that. To this day, people who’ve left town come back for Strawberry Days. Three days of music, food, arts and crafts for the kids.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Garden of the Gods. Bryan Oller

By Spencer McKee

PEACE &

PERIL

Once you conquer your fears, rock climbing can be relaxing

ock climbing is different from most other outdoor recreation activities in that gear failure or misuse can lead to death. If the rope breaks, if the harness is put on wrong or if an anchor pops out of the rock face, you could die. There’s not much margin for error. Despite this, rock climbing tends to be a sport of relaxation and peace. For me, rock climbing delivers a similar emotional experience as yoga, not so much the thrill that comes with high-speed sports such as skiing. After all, as long as the gear works and is used properly, rock climbing is nothing but a sort of balancing act: balancing the body while also balancing the mind. Rock climbing requires intense concentration and the ability to cast innate fears aside. This starts with trusting the gear, which can be a major hurdle. There I was, for the first time in my life, 40 feet up a wall and dangling from a rope. My anchor held tight in the sandstone, while a stranger below kept me in place as a counterweight. As I paused between scant holds on the side of Grey Rock at Garden of the Gods, my palms sweated profusely. It was the first time I’d trusted my life to a rope and the first time I’d been so far off the ground. I looked around to enjoy the view, but the reminder of my precarious situation made it difficult to focus. I worked to fight back the fear. “Not bad,” I thought to myself, shocked that a boy from Indiana with a lifelong fear of heights had deliberately made it so high with his own hands and feet. I reminded myself that countless people had climbed the route using the same bolted anchor. With only a few moves left, I noticed I was bleeding from several cuts. Who knew that rocks could be so sharp and hard? As I pushed my fingertips into the next

CLIMBING TIPS 1. Limit impact of gear: Do not leave gear on rock walls or damage rock features while placing gear. Follows the rules on chalk usage — sometimes that means using natural-colored chalk or no chalk at all. 2. Respect wildlife: Be aware of seasonal nesting closures to avoid disturbing protected birds. If you come across a nest, do not touch it. 3. Leave no trace: Not only is it important to stay on route for safety and to avoid damaging fragile surfaces, it’s also important to pack out trash and waste. Carry a bag for garbage. — TAMERA TWITTY

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

tiny feature, the roughly 3-inch chunk of rock popped off, crashing to the ground. “And that’s why we wear helmets!” my belayer shouted. “All good?” “All good!” I replied, though my mind drifted to wondering whether the rock holding my anchor could crumble in the same way. My heart began to beat faster, and convincing myself to keep moving grew more difficult. “Trust the gear, trust the process,” I said to myself, a feeble attempt to calm the nerves. In roughly the same time it took to get 40 feet off the ground, I ascended the final 10 feet. Reaching the anchor offered the ultimate relief. “Good to come down!” I called down, ready to put my soles back on solid ground. “Want to enjoy the view a bit first?” my belayer asked. I paused for about 5 seconds so as to not seem too eager and then replied: “I’m good!” It would be several more years before I’d really take the dive into rock climbing. Eventually, I’d get over looming fears and start to feel the calm that comes with being so focused on the task at hand. It’s easy to see why so many love rock climbing, but in most cases, I doubt it’s for the thrill. It’s for tranquility. It’s for the concentration. It’s for the escape. And it just so happens to come with a pretty good view too.

6 FAMED AREAS FOR ROCK CLIMBING By Seth Boster IN COLORADO Rock climbing has become a talent honed inside a gym. But it’s the outdoor walls for which Colorado is known. Near Cañon City, Shelf Road is but one of the state’s premier areas. Here’s a look at others:

1 2 3

BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON “The Black” is an ominous, fitting title for a guidebook to this imposing, vertical landscape in southwest Colorado. The book also details a history of bold, bar-setting ascents at the national park, which requires permits. Suffice to say: This is true adventure climbing for experts only.

BOULDER CANYON

In Boulder, the Flatirons command the view, while Eldorado Canyon is another realm calling to climbers. But generations have cut their teeth on this approachable canyon. Animal World is known as a playground for climbers working their way up to some of the iconic cracks on Elephant Buttress.

CLEAR CREEK CANYON

West of Golden, the canyon differentiates itself from Boulder with varied rock types, some of them crumbly. Similar is the accessibility and mix of sport and trad climbs. And, as in other areas, there is a long-held ethic when it comes to bolting routes and leaving others wild.

4 5 6

INDEPENDENCE PASS Regulars know it simply as the Pass. As soon as snow clears and Colorado 82 between Twin Lakes and Aspen opens, they flock to the famed granite, which affords some bouldering opportunities at high altitude. Best known is Grotto Wall, among areas reached in the forest from pullouts.

PENITENTE CANYON

Once a place for reclusive Catholic monks, the San Luis Valley landmark is now a destination for sport climbers. Since the 1980s, the solid rock has become a smorgasbord of bolted routes. Adventurers should be aware of summer heat and rattlesnakes.

RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK

“Most people are enchanted by the canyon’s beauty on first contact,” reads a description from Rifle Climbers’ Coalition. If those people don’t have what it takes, enchantment turns to terror. The canyon is world-renowned for its high concentration of high grades.

Scan with camera phone to plan your Pueblo, CO getaway.

VisitPueblo.org

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Fishers Peak. Parker Seibold

S U M M E R

SPOTLIGHT

Trinidad BY SETH BOSTER

It is an easy town to locate, impossible to miss at the southernmost end of Interstate 25 in Colorado. Trinidad’s identity, however, is much harder to pinpoint. Look around and you’ll see plenty of symbols of industries past and present. Walk up and down the red-brick Main Street, and you’ll come to understand a town built on mining. Yes, the coal boom built Trinidad — accompanied by the railroad boom that replaced the old Santa Fe Trail as the mode of transit. But the trail is far from forgotten today. Trinidad was the crossroads for that pioneer path, representing both the promise and the pain of the broader 38

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Temple Aaron in Trinidad. Chancey Bush

West, the lives made and lost. Ranching prevailed around here too. That was long before the modern economy turned its attention to recreational marijuana. Amid that industry’s proliferation around Colorado and across the state line in New Mexico, officials have spoken of yet another boom and bust. And so here we are now in a town still colorful, still looking back but also looking forward. People are looking up — up to the high cliffs of Fishers Peak. After generations in private hands, Trinidad’s biggest, boldest landmark is finally public land. That’s a clear hint at a future of tourism. Take a closer look around:

Get cultured Trinidad History Museum is the first stop for a deeper dive into the important events that shaped this region and state. You might go pay your respects at the Southern Colorado Coal Miners Memorial. You might also drive 15 minutes north to the Ludlow Massacre Site, marking a nightmare that changed labor in America. Trinidad maintained faith, as beautifully displayed by Temple Aaron. The edifice of pink sandstone and cornices stands on a neighborhood hilltop, considered the oldest synagogue in Colorado. It was the design of a highly influential architect, Isaac Hamilton Rapp. His other grand works around town include Zion’s Lutheran Church and First Baptist Church. Corazon Gallery is among stops on Main Street, lined by boutiques and shops celebrating the local flair. The A.R. Mitchell Museum of Western Art celebrates the captivating works of Arthur Roy Mitchell. And the Art Cartopia Museum celebrates a much different kind of creativity. Trust us, you haven’t seen vehicles like this.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 1

THE LUMINEERS

Go play Trinidad Lake is a great, often-missed oasis for fishing, boating and camping. Across the interstate is the new state park: Fishers Peak, where 13-plus miles of trail are making their summer debut. The scenic network offers short and long outings — including a mountain bike-only downhill section called Poison Canyon. Highway of Legends is a vastly underrated drive. You could make a full day of the 82 miles, stopping for photos at quaint towns, lakes and viewpoints. From Trinidad, the road peaks above 11,000 feet. Another drive to consider: south across the border to Raton, N.M. Sugarite Canyon State Park is another overlooked paradise of lakes, trails and mining history.

GRACE POTTER

Grab a bite Rino’s is the creation of a Trinidad native who left as a youngster with dreams of musical fame. He touched that fame. But eventually, Frank Cordova came home to open an Italian restaurant complete with singing waiters. You might catch him belting a number one night, still going strong in his 80s. Nana and Nano’s Pasta House is another trusted name in Italian cuisine. They also offer quicker bites: sandwiches with carefully selected meats and cheeses. Speaking of meats, Trinidad Smokehouse is the place. They’ve got you covered if you’re craving a burger or barbecue. If it’s pizza on your mind, Bella Luna is the spot.

BROTHERS OSBORNE

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 2

OLD DOMINION JAMES BAY

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 3

foo fighters BILLY IDOL JADE JACKSON

SINGLE DAY & 3-DAY PASSES ON SALE NOW! JAZZASPENSNOWMASS.ORG TICKET & LODGING PACKAGES: 800.SNOWMASS Frank Cordova sings at Rino’s in Trinidad. Chancey Bush

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Cripple Creek. Mark Reis

By Seth Boster

SET IN STONE Mining paved way for these Colorado towns

Colorado was built on gold and silver, as showcased by towns all around the state more than a century after the mines went silent. The prospector spirits are particularly felt at a few destinations: BRECKENRIDGE Among the ski shops and designer names, Breckenridge still maintains its mining heritage. Just look at the Pollock House, Chinese Laundry house or Iowa Hill boarding house — symbols of former life here. People rushed after gold was found in 1859. In 1887, a 13 1/2-pound nugget was unearthed, considered the largest of its kind in Colorado. Up from town, Boreas Pass offers a scenic glimpse into what was a perilous railroading era. 40

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CREEDE The town in southwest Colorado is named for Nicholas Creede, who struck silver in 1889 in East Willow Creek Canyon. A tent city popped up around him, and another wave came with word of him selling his mine for $70,000. The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad further spurred what became known as Colorado’s last silver boom town. Now you can drive through East Willow Creek Canyon on the Bachelor Loop, a dive into the past. Dive deeper at Last Chance Mine.

CRIPPLE CREEK It’s been called the scene of Colorado’s last and greatest gold rush. “Pikes Peak or bust” was the phrase of the day, written across wagons that braved the plains en route to the fields where Bob Womack filed a claim in 1890. Millionaires such as Winfield Scott Stratton would be made, and a city to the east would rise to world renown: Colorado Springs. Like prospectors before, visitors today still test their luck in Cripple Creek — only now at the town’s casinos. IDAHO SPRINGS On Interstate 70, you know exactly where you are when you see the shafts and old mine headquarters preserved on the hillsides. Ragged travelers knew where they were too, after 1859. The gold rush started that year upon George Andrew Jackson’s discovery along the banks of Clear Creek. It was the start of Colorado’s gold rush as a whole, the local historic society maintains, pointing to what’s considered the first organization of a mining district. LEADVILLE Before Creede, silver was the craze of Leadville. The town had several other names — including Cloud City for its place above 10,000 feet — but Horace Tabor declared it Leadville in 1878 for another rich resource in the area: lead ore. Tabor became one of Colorado’s mightiest mine kings before the silver bust of 1893. Afterward, Leadville enjoyed another brief boom from gold, and later molybdenum kept the town afloat.

RELIVE THE RUSH

By Seth Boster

They once made millionaires. Now they make tourists happy. Take a step back in time at these mines:

MOLLIE KATHLEEN GOLD MINE, CRIPPLE CREEK The mine’s website recalls the story of Mollie Kathleen, who one day in 1891 “noticed an interesting rock formation that winked back at her.” The history goes: “With her heart racing, Mollie nonchalantly hid gold samples.” Your heart might race as well on the 1,000-foot drop of the underground tour.

HIDEE GOLD MINE, CENTRAL CITY

The tour enters a tunnel that spans an area once considered “the richest square mile on Earth.” That’s only half of the experience here. You also can test your skill at gold panning. The Hidee has a motto: “Always keep what you find, and you will find something.”

ARGO MILL AND TUNNEL, IDAHO SPRINGS

This might be the most recognized attraction of its kind in Colorado — the red infrastructure impossible to miss on the drive along Interstate 70 through Clear Creek County. This was a site of technological ingenuity, responsible for processing an amount of gold ore worth billions in today’s dollars.

COUNTRY BOY MINE, BRECKENRIDGE

Just as the mine knew many enticing qualities of the late 1800s — gold, silver, lead and zinc — so it boasts many today. Your headlamp lights the way deep into the tunnel. Outside, families have panned for gold, met burros and hunted for treasure along a wooded trail.

BACHELOR SYRACUSE MINE, OURAY

Guides take you on a dark walk spanning 1,500 feet and years of dreaming, toiling and risking it all as miners did in these San Juan Mountains. They provide the scenery from a stream said to still twinkle with those precious metals sought. A cafe is open on weekends to fill you up on pancakes.

OLD HUNDRED GOLD MINE, SILVERTON

In the heart of the San Juans is a tour through the heart of Galena Mountain, which still bears the mineral that three German brothers cherished. The Neigolds were the original owners, known to entertain the camp with song and performances. They’d probably be proud of the entertainment today.

a family-friendly journey

through Colorado's mining history CRIPPLECREEKRAILROAD.COM OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

By Seth Boster

COLORADO TRAILS TO APPRECIATE STUNNING ROCKS

Paint Mines. Mark Reis

We all remember the tweet. In 2020, San Miguel Sheriff ’s Office reported a “large boulder the size of a small boulder” blocking a highway — a viral post that made us laugh and reflect on our Colorado life. Yes, rocks are common obstructions. Also, they can be the main attractions. As they are on these trails:

Paint Mines Interpretive Park

There is nothing quite like it in all of Colorado: on the plains of eastern El Paso County, a field of pillars and hoodoos, shaped as if by an array of Play-Doh.

Devil’s Causeway

The name should scare you. Stemming from Chinese Wall Trail in Flat Tops Wilderness, this rocky spine is irresistible for thrill seekers, who must walk carefully between drop-offs.

Horsetooth Rock

Perhaps Fort Collins’ most famous landmark, it’s the most-sought destination from Horsetooth Mountain Open Space. The trail leads 2 miles to the high rock.

Lost Creek Wilderness

These formations represent the quintessential nature of the Pikes Peak region, including its unique granite. That’s the reward at the end, overlooking mountains and valleys.

Rattlesnake Arches

Outside Grand Junction, this is considered the second most saturated collection of arches in the U.S. after a certain national park in Utah. You’ll either have to drive a rough track or hike a 15-mile round trip to visit.

Red Rock Canyon Open Space

While tourists fill Garden of the Gods, locals know this preserve of similar geology as their happy place. The short Contemplative Trail is a must-hike.

Rifle Arch

This low-lying fantasy land of forest, stream-fed meadows and granite offers a great escape. Goose Creek trailhead is a common launch point for day trips.

Lumpy Ridge

The Crags

North of Rifle along Colorado 13 is a trailhead to prized scenery. The Grand Hogback trail network surrounds the centerpiece arch, which requires a steep but short hike.

Often lost in the scenic buffet that is Rocky Mountain National Park is this granite cluster coating the hills. You can better appreciate it on the namesake loop, which spans a strenuous 11 miles.

Castle Rock

While viewed by all driving Interstate 25 between Denver and Colorado Springs, not very many pull off for the trail looping just beneath the massive block.

LEAVE NO TRACE BY TAMERA TWITTY

It’s important to be thoughtful when visiting natural spaces in order to protect the area for generations to come. Help preserve Colorado’s outdoors by adopting the seven principles provided by the Leave No Trace organization. 42

1. Be prepared: Always check the forecast, plan your route and be ready for emergencies before exploring natural areas. This can lower the risk of accidents and minimize damage to natural resources. 2. Travel, camp on durable surfaces: Always stay on the trail. Avoid damaging natural spaces by traveling on good surfaces. Rock, sand and gravel are durable surfaces that won’t be damaged easily.

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

3. Dispose of waste: Dig a six- to eightinch hole to dispose of human waste. Make sure the hole is at least 200 feet from water, trail and campsites. 4. Leave what you find: Do not alter trails and campsites, carve into trees or take anything home. This will preserve the spots for future outdoor enthusiasts. 5. Minimize campfire damage: Never leave a fire unattended. Be sure to keep water and a shovel close in case of emer-

gencies. To extinguish a fire, pour water on it and stir with shovel until it is cold. 6. Respect wildlife: Do not disturb wildlife and remember to only observe animals from safe distances. Properly store wildlife attractants such as food and fragrant lotions. 7. Be considerate: Keeping dogs on-leash, limiting excessive noise and practicing good trail etiquette are great ways to respect others while outdoors.

Rocky Mountain National Park. Christian Murdock

AUTUMN’S

KISS

FALL

Lake Estes. Christian Murdock

Inside the quintessential Colorado elk experience

‘Wildlife

ESTES PARK • In an aspen-lined meadow crowned by the regal peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park, a bull elk raises his snout to the setting sun. It’s a telltale sign of the sound Coloradans long for in the fall. “Here comes a bugle,” says Bruce Marshall, among a large audience admiring from the road, phone at the ready. The bull’s mouth opens. But the sound heard is not the captivating, low growl that becomes a wail. It’s the long honk of a car in traffic. “Really?” Marshall grumbles. Really, the accompanying gaggle is nearly as much of a spectacle as the famous elk rut itself. From mid-September through mid-October, big-antlered bulls are roaming and calling for love. They compete for a collection of cows, doing what they must to protect and grow these groups called harems. “It’s a little bit of a wildlife soap opera,” says Estee Rivera Murdock, with the park’s nonprofit partner Rocky Mountain Conservancy. The elk chase. They fight. The males might affectionately nudge females and insist they stay when temptation gets the best of them. When a cow strays, observers might sense jealousy in that bull dashing after her. They do what they do to multiply — an act meant to be private. Here, it’s all quite public. For the park that instituted a timed entry system to control visitation and protect natural resources, it’s perhaps ironic that reservations aren’t required at hours around dawn and dusk, when elk are out and about. So park rangers work to manage the human herd. They wave along lines of idling vehicles, keep others from improperly park-

ing, guard photographers and videographers and Instagrammers from getting too close to the animals on more important missions. Unhurried regulars know the best spots for tailgating. Take it from Marshall, visiting from Summit County: “It’s the next best thing to skiing.” Truly, says Rivera Murdock: “You feel like By Seth Boster you’re in a crazy nature documentary.” All across the world’s rutting kingdom, Rocky Mountain National Park is unique, park spokeswoman Kyle Patterson says. Thanks to the ideal habitat — wintering populations are estimated between 600 and 800 in park valleys close to Estes Park — and the many miles of road running through it, “we can watch this nature show happen really closely,” she says. The show anchors one of the park’s busiest times of year. In September 2021, about 521,000 visitors were counted, many of whom also were drawn to the changing colors of fall. Paulette Johnson has been watching the rut for decades. “Especially since the pandemic, the numbers have been unbelievable,” she says. She gets it. However clogged the road at her back, she’s not troubled. She’s sitting in the shade of a pine, satisfied by wine and cheese, more than satisfied by the view: those elk, those aspen trees turning gold, those peaks soon to be capped by snow. “It’s Colorado,” she says. It’s quintessential Colorado, where we live with the wild. Lucky us, says Sandy Burton, attending the rut for the first time with family from Georgia. “To be out here and experience this world of beauty,” she says, “it’s insane.”

soap opera’

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

20 FALL FESTIVALS AROUND COLORADO

By Carlotta Olson

SEPT. 1-3: Jazz Aspen Snowmass: With Foo Fighters, Billy Idol and more, Aspen; jazzaspensnowmass.org. SEPT. 1-4: Four Corners Motorcycle Rally: Bikes, music, stunt shows and more, Durango; fourcornersmotorcyclerally.com. SEPT. 1-4: Telluride Film Festival: Tributes to luminaries who’ve propelled the medium forward, Telluride; telluride.com. SEPT. 2: High Altitude Horsepower Car Show: Antique, classic, muscle cars and more, Westcliffe; visitwetmountainvalley.com. SEPT. 2-4: Colorado Springs Labor Day Lift Off, Memorial Park, Colorado Springs; coloradospringslabordayliftoff.com. SEPT. 2-4: Gathering at the Great Divide Art Festival: A Summit County tradition, Breckenridge; mountainartfestivals.com. SEPT. 8-10: Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festival: Dance, parade and more, Estes Park; scotfest.com. SEPT. 8-10, 15-17: Oktoberfest: Bavarian music, beer, Vail; oktoberfestvail.com. SEPT. 8-17: Denver Mineral, Fossil, Gem & Jewelry Show, National Western Complex, Denver; denver.show. SEPT. 8-OCT. 21: Oktoberfest Train: Beers, brats and more, Royal Gorge Route Railroad, Cañon City; royalgorgeroute.com.

SEPT. 9-10: Fiber Arts Festival: Vendors, beer garden and more, Riverside Park, Salida; salidafiberfestival.com. SEPT. 16: Pawtoberfest: Dog walk and beer fest, Bear Creek Regional Park, Colorado Springs; hsppr.org. SEPT. 16: Colorado Mountain Winefest: Food, wine pairings and more, Riverside Park, Palisade; coloradowinefest.com. SEPT. 21-23: High Plains Comedy Festival: More than 100 performers on stage, Denver; highplainscomedyfestival.com. SEPT. 21-23: Great American Beer Festival: Explore America’s best breweries, Denver; greatamericanbeerfestival.com. SEPT. 21-24: Spanish Peaks International Celtic Music Festival: Music, workshops and more, La Veta; celticmusicfest.com. SEPT. 22-24: Chile & Frijoles Festival: Vendors, entertainment and more, Pueblo; festival.pueblochamber.org. SEPT. 29-OCT. 1: Colorado Springs Oktoberfest, Western Museum of Mining and Industry, Colorado Springs; csoktoberfest.com. OCT. 7-9: Oct. 7-9: Botanica — A Festival of Plants: Workshops, presenters and more, Three Leaf Farm, Lafayette; botanicafestival.com. OCT. 13-15: Horror Show: Scary film festival, Telluride; telluridehorrorshow.com.

Welcome to Cripple Creek. You deserve a break!

“Come Indulge Yourself!” OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

Lake San Cristobal. Kelsey Brunner

FALL By Seth Boster

(IN LOVE) Southwest Colorado only gets prettier when summer passes 46

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

As if Colorado’s southwest region could get any more beautiful, autumn swoops in. Gold is added to the palette, which also includes shades of purple and pink — the big sky blushing as the sun sets on another fulfilling day. How else to describe days spent in the San Juan Mountains? There is discovery and beauty beyond fall color: Alpine Loop: Colorado’s signature majesty is on full display during this high-altitude tour spanning 63 miles through ghost towns and aspen groves. Lake City, Silverton and Ouray are the gateways; you might check with an outfitter for a Jeep or ATV. It’s slow going on the rocky track, but you’ll want to get there fast, before the snow.

Owl Creek Pass. Christian Murdock

Owl Creek Pass: Outside Ridgway, this 1880s cattle trail is much more forgiving than the Alpine Loop (though, a passenger car isn’t recommended). It’s another spectacular drive for fall colors, with the bonus of backdrops from John Wayne’s “True Grit.” What’s more: fisheries such as Beaver Lake and Silver Jack Reservoir. Million Dollar Highway: One more scenic drive for your leaf-peeping consideration, this one all paved. U.S. 550 runs between Ouray and Silverton, spotted with old shafts and remains of mines that made men millionaires. Don’t let your eyes drift for long: There are some hair-raising moments along unguarded cliff drops. Perimeter Trail: This is a great way for the family to take in the sights that give Ouray its reputation as the Switzerland of America. Totaling about 6 miles, the loop skirts the box canyon and passes several waterfalls, rock formations and sweeping vistas. If short on time, there’s plenty of spots to drop back into town. Ice Lake Trail: Starting near Silverton, this is a more challenging option if seeking an escape on foot. Don’t expect an escape from crowds; the trail has gotten very popular in recent years. Covering about 8 miles out and back and cresting above 12,000 feet, the trail is named for a deep-blue lake surrounded by jagged peaks. Lake San Cristobal: The cabin resort town of Lake City was built around this natural body of water, the second largest in Colorado. With that title comes everything you’d expect: boating, fishing and refreshing walks along the shore. Thankfully, Lake City is the center of what’s considered the Lower 48’s “most remote” county. Bridal Veil Falls: At 365 feet, this masterpiece outside Telluride is Colorado’s tallest waterfall. It’s long been reached via rutted road, where hikers have converged with drivers. Recent years have seen a footpath added — a more tranquil way to admire nature before the cascade’s refreshing base.

Mesa Verde National Park: Tours to the famed cliff dwellings of ancient people typically end in late October. But that doesn’t mean you can’t appreciate the history and scenery on your own. On the typically hot outskirts of Cortez, the park calls fall “a quieter, cooler, more intimate time” along the roads and trails. Canyons of the Ancients National Monument: The Ancestral Puebloan people left their marks across cliffs and hills well beyond Mesa Verde. Their dwellings and gathering places can be found far across the land from Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center and Museum. Start there to get an idea. Pagosa hot springs: Pagosa Springs claims the “Mother Spring,” said to be the world’s deepest geothermal well. She is a very giving mother, situated by a bunch of pools and tubs maintained by resorts all within walking distance. Locals know the “hippie dips,” formed by rocks along the banks of the river through downtown.

Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. Dougal Brownlie

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

BLEMISHED BEAUTY By Seth Boster

What you’re really doing when you’re carving an aspen tree

Aspen. Christian Murdock

To carve an aspen tree — to take a blade to the trunk for the sake of your initials, for example — is to do harm. Harm to a being with a life expectancy much like our own: 100 years, if we’re lucky. To leave your mark, “it may sound cool,” says Dan West, an aspen expert with the Colorado State Forest Service. “But that tree might not survive because of what you’re doing.” A cut to the human arm is a possible portal for infection. Same for an aspen tree. Though the risk might be greater in aspen, considering “aspen are one of the most diseased and infected trees in North America,” West says. Otherwise, yes, a wound to our body is much like a wound to Colorado’s favorite tree of autumn. On our travels to behold the golden displays, we’ve all seen it. Gashed groves. White bark disrupted by black scars that look nothing like nature’s doing. There’s someone’s name. There’s someone’s message that doesn’t matter. There’s a heart housing the names Megan and Jon. Paul Rogers, director of Western Aspen Alliance based at Utah State University, came by this one once. A harsh revision later was made — an “X” over “Megan” and a message above: “Megan is a skank.” “It didn’t work out over time, their relationship, apparently,” Rogers says. But the advocate scientist cares not for such drama. Nor do the trees care for our drama and whatever vain impulses lead us to scarring their thin skin. Aspen bark is not like the bark of a pine or Douglas fir or any other conifer. These white trunks don’t have that protective, rough shield. Maybe you’ve noticed even your fingernail can penetrate, easily breaking that green layer of chlorophyll, which is scrumptious to many creatures, including a slew of beetles. Along with them, there are other invaders. “Aspen have a lot of pathogens out there ready to eat them at a moment’s notice,” says Jonathan Coop, a professor of biology, environment and sustainability at Western Colorado University. An opening in the bark is an opening for fungi. There the fungi might make a home while the aspen skin does what human skin does in defense: the bark closes itself. “By closing that wound over, if there are any fungal spores inside, all that does is seal the fungus inside the tree,” West says. “And then the tree might end up with a canker.” We know the pesky and painful canker sores in our mouth. Aspen trees know other cankers. The sooty-bark canker is fatal among the elderly. The cryptosphaeria canker has been found to be deadly as well. Also, across the Rocky Mountains, there are massive swaths that “elk have been hammering winter after winter,” Coop says. And “the bigger issue is the elk are also browsing the sucker shoots,” he says, meaning the young. “They can prevent those stands from regenerating.” It’s a threat to the larger ecological balance of the region; aspen account for some of the most biodiverse forests out there, benefiting a vibrant array of plants and animals. And “it really is a human problem,” Rogers says.

PRESERVE COLORADO By Spencer McKee

6 tips to ensure the natural treasures are still around for future generations

Jay Janner

1. Stay on the trail Careful planning goes into trail design so as to avoid negative environmental impacts on the area. From changing animal traffic to disrupting water flow, the route hikers take can have big implications. On the most basic level, off-trail foot traffic compresses top soil. Not only can this make it more difficult for new plant growth, it also can accelerate erosion. These changes can destabilize ecosystems. 2. Always leave no trace “Take only pictures, leave only footprints” is not a guideline to be ignored. “Leave No Trace” principles are meant to minimize the problems caused by humans in the outdoors. Be aware of how your actions impact nature. Want some bonus points? Bring an extra trash bag while hiking or camping and then collect garbage left behind by less responsible outdoor enthusiasts. 3. Don’t feed wildlife Introducing animals to off-diet foods and unnatural food sources can cause problems. For one, a food that isn’t part of an animal’s diet can be harmful. Two, feeding animals can alter eating habits, teaching them to rely on humans instead of instinctive food-gathering means their species have used for centuries. This also trains them to lurk around humans, which can result in conflict. 4. Follow posted rules While some signs are made for the protection of visitors, many are made to protect the environment. If a trail forbids dogs, it’s probably because their presence will impact wildlife habits or alter the composition of the soil. If a sign says no swimming, it’s probably because that lake’s ecosystem is fragile enough to be affected by something as simple as the natural oils on human skin. 5. Make no noise While bringing a portable speaker on a hike might seem innocent, it can have a huge impact. As a result of more noise, prey populations (chipmunks, for example) can be decimated, allowing a predator population (foxes, for example) to temporarily boom before also dying off. Stress from additional noise also has been shown to lead to health implications among animals and even plants. 6. Prioritize fire safety Colorado is often very dry. This means fire safety is a huge concern. Never burn anything unless it’s controlled with substantial borders. It’s also important to be aware of fire bans and current weather conditions. Wind can cause fire to spread quickly. If there’s any question, don’t burn. One mistake can mean thousands of natural acres lost for years, not to mention human life.

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FALL FOR ALL By Seth Boster

The summer heat has lifted. A cool, familiar crisp has returned. The tourist crowds are thinning. The colors are changing. The kids are in the groove at school. It’s time to give them a break — to show them what a great state it is they call home. Here are 10 fall to-dos around Colorado for the whole family:

Pick for pumpkins

Head to Mesa County

The Front Range is spotted with patches where memories are made. Denver Botanic Gardens’ Chatfield Farms is a classic, not to mention family-owned favorites such as Mazzotti and Mile High farms and Maize in the City. Which brings us to our next suggestion ...

Western Slope residents especially look forward to fall, when the heat breaks and DeBeque Canyon sends a cool breeze. That’s the breeze gracing the orchards of Palisade. The peach harvest goes through mid-September. Afterward there are plenty of wineries to sample.

Wander a corn maze

Hit an Oktoberfest

Thornton’s Maize in the City is but one option. Where there’s a pumpkin patch, there might be a labyrinth of corn, all with varying lengths and potential for a fright. Outside Greeley, Fritzler Farm Park incorporates characters across its socalled Scream Acres. Speaking of which ...

The kids won’t care for the beer, but they’ll surely enjoy the German food, costumes, music and fanfare that take over towns for select weekends. Breckenridge does it right. Vail throws a big bash too. Or stay close to home; Denver and Colorado Springs host fests each year.

Hunt for ghosts

Catch a show and a view

From Denver to Cripple Creek and other mountain towns where they say the spirits of miners never left, you’re bound to find a ghost tour. Cripple Creek has a proud tradition of tours. In neighboring Victor, check out Black Monarch Hotel — a Victorian palace-turned-horror hotel.

There’s a reason Red Rocks Amphitheatre’s season runs through October. It’s because fall nights are the best. But that’s just one outdoor concert venue. There’s also Fiddler’s Green in Denver. Or check out Dillon Amphitheater and Vail’s Ford Amphitheater.

Rush to the rut

Seek the springs

Estes Park is another place for ghost tours; look no further than The Stanley. But the main reason to visit in fall is the elk rut, the season of love from mid-September to mid-October. It is a wildlife drama playing out in town and around Rocky Mountain National Park.

For Colorado’s hot springs, fall is the sweet spot. Still that healthy contrast of hot and cold, but not winter’s bitter cold. Set a course for the many waters of Pagosa Springs and Glenwood Springs. Or enjoy a true rustic getaway at Strawberry Park Hot Springs in Steamboat.

Board a scenic train

Get your chile on

The most memorable way to view autumn’s showcase? We say via historic train. You can’t go wrong with Georgetown Loop Railroad or Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Sometimes overlooked is Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad along the New Mexico border. 50

OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE

A tradition nearly three decades old, Pueblo’s Chile & Frijoles Festival is set for Sept. 22-24. This is the grand celebration of one of Colorado’s most celebrated crops, the streets lined with roasting, freshly picked green chilies. Did we mention the chihuahua parade?

, e C k O a l L orado d n a r G a Charming village Nestled Against Colorado's Largest Natural Lake and surrounded by Rocky Mountain National Park.

Enjoy the park ... without the lines.

76th Annual Buffalo Days August 18th, 19th, 20th Pancake Breakfast, Music Fest, Buffalo BBQ, 5K, Outdoor Movie, Parade, Fireworks and more! OTC SUMMER/FALL GUIDE |

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