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Find your inspiration today at broadmoor.com.
By Spencer McKee
As snow begins to fall around the state, it’s crucial to have a news source you can trust. Make the most of your winter by going online to OutThereColorado.com.
Let OutThere Colorado keep you informed on weather patterns, essential state news, traffic updates, unique events and so much more as you explore the Centennial State.
Our team is committed to bringing our audience the finest collection of outdoor recreation news they’ll find statewide. From dependable recommendations to stories of our own adventures, there’s no better place to set up your winter trip for success than OutThereColorado.com.
STAY UP TO DATE with Colorado’s outdoor news here
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HIDDEN GEM
Find peace and quiet on a scenic trip to Walden
FUN FOR ALL
Snow Mountain Ranch offers buffet of activities
TAKE IT EASY
Time spent in nature doesn’t have to be a chore
STARRY EYES
Winter is an ideal time to take in celestial sights
POWDER RUN
What’s new, what’s trendy at Colorado ski areas
HIGH DINING
Ride the lift to continent’s two highest eateries
SOAK IT ALL IN
Unwind at soothing hot pools in Pagosa Springs
WILD WEST
Summer isn’t only time to enjoy dude ranches
Director of Content/ Operations
Spencer McKee
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Piper Russell
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Magazine Photographer Christian Murdock
kiing is the popular image of winter in Colorado. And for good reason: These Rocky Mountains serve as a historic, premier destination for the sport. In terms of skiing acreage and elevation, no other state compares.
Skiing’s impact on Colorado in economic terms? A whopping
$4.8 billion annually, according to a study from 2015, the last time trade group Colorado Ski Country USA and Vail Resorts partnered on such a report. Colorado Ski Country represents the iconic likes of Aspen, Telluride, Winter Park and Steamboat Springs, while Vail Resorts represents several global destinations, including Breckenridge and the company’s flagship resort right here in Colorado.
Right here in Colorado, all of that skiing glory.
And yet that same study in 2015 found a fact that seemed out of place: fewer than 1 in 10 Coloradans actually skied.
Yes, the state industry has reported record visitation in recent years. But it appears that could be attributed to rising numbers of avid season passholders making regular
visits, along with vacationers. All the while, the industry has tracked a troubling trend: Studies have suggested firsttime skiers and participation in the sport are dipping.
So yes, however iconic, however central to Colorado’s winter economy and culture, it could be said that skiing is somewhat niche.
And yes, oh yes, Coloradans are out enjoying winter in many different ways.
That’s the theme of this year’s winter guide: the many ways we celebrate the season. The many destinations, experiences and memories waiting to be discovered away from the slopes.
We might submit Snow Mountain Ranch as a microcosm.
“Now entering the 5,000-acre memory maker,” reads the sign along the road heading into the Grand County dreamscape.
Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing? You can find that here. Fat biking? Yes, that too. Tubing, ice skating, sleds pulled by Alaskan huskies and sleighs pulled by horses? Check, check, check and check. And there’s much more across these snowy meadows and forests spotted by cabins
reserved in advance for family reunions.
The not-so-tough sell from Mary Ann Degginger, Snow Mountain Ranch’s programs director: “Where else can you bring the grandparents, the parents and the grandkids and put them all together, and there’s something for everybody?”
It’s a similar sell — albeit a more pricey one — at Devil’s Thumb Ranch elsewhere in Grand County. We spotlight that ranch blending rustic and luxury spoils among other all-inclusive dude and guest ranches that delight in winter fun across Colorado.
These are ranches where the cowboy once toiled in the harsh elements of the season. Now generations of families have embraced winter, taking their guests out for days on horseback that end with s’mores around the campfire — under the stars that shine brightest on winter’s clear, crisp nights.
Not far from Snow Mountain Ranch and Devil’s Thumb Ranch is Winter Park Resort. No, we’re not ignoring the slopes in this magazine. You’ll find a full spread spotlighting more than two dozen ski areas in the state.
continued on page 8
We catch you up on the latest at those destinations, including new lifts, terrain and other upgrades. We also fill you in on what else to see and do when you’re not skiing.
How about fondue and wine at Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro at Aspen Highlands? Or, in Breckenridge, perhaps you’d enjoy a stroll through a snowy forest to meet a giant wooden troll?
If you’re in Steamboat Springs, you’ve got to check out F.M. Light & Sons, the western store under the same family for more than 100 years. And if you’re in Glenwood Springs, you’ve got to check out Iron Mountain Hot Springs’ new pools on a scenic terrace overlooking the Colorado River.
Indeed, winter is the time for all of that discovery. And indeed, it’s the time for soaking in Colorado’s many hot springs.
In Pagosa Springs, The Springs Resort is home to the renowned Mother Spring, regarded as the world’s deepest geothermal aquifer. The resort is home as well to the “O” Suite that once hosted Oprah Winfrey.
Consider The Springs Resort as your unforgettably posh hot springs getaway. For unforgettably unique, book a stay at Steamboat’s Strawberry Park Hot Springs (accommodations being a covered wagon and train caboose) or southern Colorado’s Desert Reef Hot Springs (Airstreams, tiny homes).
Or how about a yurt? Go ahead, join the “glamping” craze that Colorado Parks and Wildlife has caught on to; look to reserve a yurt for you and yours at several state parks perfect for winter.
One of those is State Forest State Park, near Walden in northern Colorado. This tiny town is worthy of winter destination status in our book. Flip ahead to the feature praising Walden’s silence far away from any resort bustle. We note prime ice fishing in the area, along with snowmobiling around Rabbit Ears Pass and north to Wyoming.
Back to yurts: “glamping” doesn’t get much more glamorous than Tennessee Pass Cookhouse. Perched around 10,500 feet outside Leadville, guests strap on their cross-country skis or snowshoes and venture to a hut for a hearty, four-course
meal before continuing through the woods to their yurt.
We once met Ty and Roxanne Hall, the couple who took decades to develop the concept and see it take off.
“There were many, many times where we were like, ‘We may not make it this month,’” Roxanne recalled. “We just kept hoping people would come.”
However glamorous the state’s winter tourism might seem on the snowy surface, beneath it is often a gritty tale of persistence — like that wintertime cowboy before today’s luxurious guest ranch. Like the man behind Ice Castles.
Before there was the Ice Castles company, there was a father working in his yard to entertain his kids. He fashioned a fort of pipe and lumber, sprayed water on it and watched it transform into an icy complex. “It became a neighborhood attraction,” Brent Christensen told us.
The attraction has gone national: Christensen’s company has built multicolor, interactive Ice Castles from coast to coast. Cripple Creek became the newest location a year ago.
It’s a remote, seemingly unlikely choice in the hills west of Colorado Springs, where the Pikes Peak gold rush began. However unlikely, residents saw wintertime crowds like never before last winter.
“Unless you go back to the early 1900s, when Cripple Creek was booming,” said Jeff Mosher, the city’s special projects director who courted the attraction.
More than 100,000 visitors were said to have flocked to Cripple Creek’s Ice Castles. Which goes to show just how much we as Coloradans love winter and all of the magic it entails — man-made and natural.
Mother Nature was in full force during our visit to Tennessee Pass Cookhouse. Snow was piling up as we hurried into the forest, at the behest of our host.
Hurry, Ty Hall insisted. “It’s a winter wonderland out there!”
A winter wonderland out there and everywhere, all around Colorado.
It’s natural to dip into one of Colorado’s scenic, soothing hot springs and want to stick around. Fortunately, several destinations around the state offer overnight accommodations — from the expected to the unexpected.
Front and center is the lodge complete with modern spoils you’d expect at a hotel. Other options at this 70-acre resort just outside Buena Vista include cliffside rooms with a splendid view, other rooms nestled near the upper pools, suites overlooking the creek and cabins sleeping up to 10 people. Bonus perks of an overnight: discount spa treatments and complimentary cross-country ski, snowshoe and fat bike rentals.
The home to the proclaimed world’s largest hot springs pool is perfect for families, who also delight in slides and more restful soaking baths. Parents: check out the accommodation with two connecting rooms and four queen beds. The lodge also offers more intimate suites with bars, balconies and a jacuzzi tub. Only a few steps away, you might also look to the historic Hotel Colorado, built in 1893.
For decades “a secret and protected refuge from the world,” as the website reads, Desert Reef is becoming better known. That’s thanks to new ownership and facelift renovations over the past few years. Quiet, carefree solitude is still the aim of capped reservations and rules that limit the clientele. For one, clothing is optional. Couples stay in Airstreams, tiny homes or their own vans.
It’s the one made famous by Oprah. The legendary talk show host stayed in what is now the “O” Suite, among the luxury, high-class spaces here. Yes, you’ll have to be willing to splurge. Yes, a day pass is available (as is the case for all on this list). But an overnight here is a true memory-maker, affording 24/7 access to the 25 pools spread across a terrace above the San Juan River.
If you don’t already have a lodging reservation for this winter, you’ll probably have to look to book next winter. Add the quirky overnight here to your bucket list — like so many people in Colorado and beyond who book months in advance. The rustic cabins, covered wagon and train caboose are in high demand, situated amid the forest surrounding these fairy-tale hot springs.
Don’t expect luxury but rather no-frills, motel-like rooms. Think rustic and remote — the surprise facility that a century ago birthed this drive-by town at one end of Grand County. If you’re looking for shops and restaurants, look to the end closer to Winter Park. Here, think nature. For the source of the 20 pools, see the springs bubbling along the hillsides, around where deer and elk are known to roam.
I was biking in a snow globe. Fresh flakes were falling on the tree–lined trail that stretched in front of me. What was a groomed route earlier that morning had, by lunchtime, become a powder track. Suddenly, my tires wobbled and I was rocked from upright to lying on my side.
Turns out, fresh snow and afternoon riding are not the combination you want when fat biking.
•
•
•
With Vail Pass closed because of the weather, my husband and I couldn’t complete the drive back to the Front Range. Rather than wasting an entire afternoon, we decided to exit Interstate 70 at the Vail Nordic Center to finally give this growing sport a try.
Fat biking, or cycling on a suspension-less bike with wider tires, has taken off over the past decade, largely because it extends the cycling season and opens up previously inaccessible terrain, including sandy and snowy routes. In the winter, it also provides a quiet alternative to Colorado’s crowded ski resorts.
“When skiing is good, fat biking is normally not
good because you don’t want new snow,” says Haley Dumke, a Minturn local who took the women’s title in the Fat Bike Worlds in January. “It’s so fun — there’s always something to do.”
• • •
As a newbie to fat tires, I hadn’t realized the fresh pow would add a layer of slip to the trail. I’d also (wrongly) assumed my ability to ride a bike would easily translate from the road to the snow.
The weather did provide one benefit: it softened my fall. I righted my rental bike, took a deep breath and continued on. My husband and I were the only two on the trail so no one else had witnessed my spill — or my second wipeout a few minutes later.
We opted for a loop of three or so miles from the eight miles of bike–accessible trails. By the end of the outing, I was more comfortable maneuvering and riding with the bike instead of trying to control it. I was also sweating through my ski jacket. Fat biking was a legit workout, I realized. Which meant I’d earned the beer and chili that awaited me in the clubhouse.
Leadville: At an elevation above 10,000 feet, fat biking in the former mining town is a serious workout. It’s also seriously fun. Those great heights mean the sport is potentially doable for six months a year. Check out the Timberline Trails behind Colorado Mountain College (the 20 miles of singletrack were built and are groomed by Cloud City Wheelers, a trail and cycling advocacy group); the eight miles of trail recently added around Turquoise Lake; and the groomed Mineral Belt Trail (ride opposite the ski track). Cloud City Wheelers also organizes the Leadville Winter Mountain Bike Series, the longest running event of its kind in the country.
Crested Butte/Gunnison: Expert riders often reply with these two words when asked where they like to ride in the winter: Hartman Rocks. This popular Gunnison park boasts groomed singletrack, heart-pumping climbs and slick descents. To the north, Crested Butte Nordic grooms six miles of fat biking trails between town and the mountain. If you want even more, there are plenty of additional backcountry options, such as Gothic and Cement Creek roads, managed by Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association. Need an excuse to visit this winter? Fat Bike Worlds are returning to the ski town in January.
Breckenridge: Gold Run Nordic Center has upped its fleet of fat bike rentals due to surging popularity and even offers a fat bike season pass so riders can play on its nine miles of groomed trails without having to pay each time. For a more DIY experience, check out grooming reports for what’s ready to ride in the local trail network. Or join Ridden for a guided tour that includes warm-up stops at Broken Compass Brewing Co. and Breckenridge Distillery.
This winter trip takes traffic out of the equation
Ski season is upon us, and with it comes hordes of tourists headed to the mountains on winter roads that can get bogged down quickly. It’s no secret that getting caught in ski traffic is a serious drag.
Here’s a winter road trip designed to keep you exploring Colorado instead of sitting on Interstate 70:
1. Cañon City
Leaving from Colorado Springs, the first stop is scenic Fremont County. Because most travelers head west on U.S. 24 in search of fresh powder, this route via Colorado 115 and U.S. 50 bypasses the biggest crowds. During winter, the iconic Royal Gorge Bridge & Park can still be enjoyed, as can the Royal Gorge Route Railroad. The train hosts a number of holiday-themed events, including a Christmas excursion complete with music, lights and hot chocolate.
2. Salida
Continue west on U.S. 50, following the picturesque Arkansas River all the way to the next stop. This leg of the drive winds through stunning Bighorn Sheep Canyon before stopping in a mountain town known for tasty food and outdoor recreation. Among the local favorites is Sweetie’s Sandwiches & Baked Excellence, which also serves up soups, salads and sweets. (OK, OK. If you’re itching to hit the slopes, nearby Monarch Mountain is a great ski hill.)
3. Buena Vista
Go through Poncha Springs and head north on U.S. 285 for an out-and-back trek inside beautiful Chaffee County. Buena Vista is a mountain town best known as the summer base camp for hikers seeking to climb the Collegiate Peaks. While the town gets a
bit sleepy during the colder months, the presence of soothing hot springs still draws visitors. Take a dip at Cottonwood Hot Springs outside of town or Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort in Nathrop.
4. Monarch Pass
When snow starts to fall, the mountains beckon. And the journey west out of Salida on U.S. 50 offers spectacular views. While the drive over Monarch Pass is almost guaranteed to be stunning, it also can be hazardous so check the forecast, be prepared and don’t get in a rush. Monarch Mountain ski area, with 800 acres of beginner, intermediate and expert terrain, is situated near the top of the pass.
5. Gunnison
After an unforgettable (and perhaps nerve-racking) drive over Monarch Pass, stop for some good grub in Gunnison. You’ll find plenty of quaint restaurants and shops and probably won’t bump into large crowds as most winter travelers immediately head north to Crested Butte. That means you might not have to wait for a table at historic Mario’s Pizza & Pasta, in business since 1965. If you’re craving breakfast, then join the locals at W Cafe.
6. Curecanti National Recreation Area
After fueling up with gas and food, continue west on U.S. 50 through Curecanti National Recreation Area, home to massive Blue Mesa Reservoir and
its 96 miles of shoreline. Whether you’re looking for panoramic views or a great place to go ice fishing, this spot is worth checking out. A quick detour south leads intrepid travelers to Lake City, a quintessential Colorado town where year-round recreation is enjoyed. Try ice climbing for free in the winter.
7. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park On the western edge of Curecanti National Recreation Area lies this incredible chasm. Not many ever visit during the colder months so crowds aren’t likely to be a concern. While access and some services are limited, the awe-inspiring views might be even better in winter as snow drapes the vertical world. Visitors can snowshoe and cross-country ski on the South Rim, entering the sloping woods on short trails.
8. Montrose/Fruita
Minutes west of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park on U.S. 50, Montrose boasts wonderful snowmobiling opportunities thanks to an abundance of nearby public land. There are also plenty of options for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Or stay on the highway and finish the trip in Fruita, home to the scenic geologic wonderland of Colorado National Monument. A more mild climate makes this area a year-round hiking and biking destination.
In this internet age where nothing is secret, where Colorado’s wonders are revealed on all platforms of social media, how can a hidden gem stay hidden?
Perhaps, for one, by the limits of geography. Take the geography around Walden, for example.
The Front Range masses might arrive to this northern Colorado hamlet via the long, winding drive through Poudre Canyon from Fort Collins — the drive ill-advised in winter’s harshest elements. Equally feared in whiteout conditions is the drive over Rabbit Ears Pass toward Steamboat Springs. That’s the other common route taken by those from Colorado’s population centers. And, indeed, they are commonly en route to Steamboat, bound for the massive ski resort putting northwest Colorado on the map. This is another way a hidden gem stays hidden: by such major nearby destinations stealing the attention.
And so Walden remains — a hidden gem worthy of discovery during winter, especially for pure outdoor lovers.
How could Colorado’s largest state park, sprawling 71,000 acres, remain a hidden gem? We once heard a ranger here blame the obscure name. For those in the know, State Forest State Park has gone by another name: “little Rocky Mountain National Park.”
Surrounded by the Never Summer and Medicine Bow mountain ranges, in view of the legendary Nokhu Crags and never far from an alpine lake, it can very easily feel like that much more famous park. And like Rocky Mountain National Park, State Forest is highly regarded for its vast array of trails.
The state park also is regarded for its yurts, making for a memorable camping or “glamping” trip in the winter. And did we mention moose? Your chances for a sighting in the state park are about as good as it gets across Colorado. Moose have expanded their reach in the state since starting in this area with a government-led introduction effort in 1978.
Anglers from near and far head to North Delaney Lake, a Gold Medal fishery rated for its thriving brown trout. North Delaney is situated along a chain of lakes where lunkers have exceeded 24 inches. Another popular spot is Lake John, which hosts an annual ice fishing tournament. And another: Cowdrey Lake, a scenic sheet of ice teeming with rainbow and cutbow trout.
The most knowledgeable and adventurous ice fishermen have snowmobiled up to Big Creek Lake. And then there are those who seek not fish, but the fast, wind-in-your-face thrill that comes from snowmobiling.
Walden serves as a base camp for excursions out to the powder-packed wilds of Rabbit Ears and Buffalo passes. Or one might drive north toward Laramie, Wyo., for the Snowy Range, the nation’s premier snowmobiling destination.
Drive about an hour to Steamboat Springs, and you’ll find highly trained chefs pleasing resort-goers. Around Walden, you’ll find locals who know what’s best: nothing fancy, good company.
Stockman Bar & Grill is the trusted home away from home when other establishments close or change hours for winter. It’s the place hosting lonely locals and travelers for Thanksgiving and Christmas. The place that was recently pouring free drinks for hunters who showed off their racks. Whether hunters are lucky or not, they know they can always score a cheap burger and beer here. Burgers and beer as well at the 10th Frame — and bowling. That’s right: a bowling alley in Walden. Like Stockman, River Rock Cafe is similarly dependable while contrasting with white linens. In the cozy, lodge-like dining room, guests splurge on chicken fried steak, St. Louis style ribs and shrimp dinners.
“Bringing fairy tales to life.”
That’s the slogan of Ice Castles, the company behind colorful, icy, LED-lit wonderlands at select locations around the country.
The fairy tale is set to expand in Colorado this winter. In addition to returning to Cripple Creek for a second season, the company will add a location in Eagle off Interstate 70.
Here’s a by-the-numbers look at the immersive attractions:
10,000: Icicles, approximately, grown to create the Ice Castles. The icicles are sprayed with water to be “glued” and stacked.
8,000,000: Gallons of water estimated to be needed for construction in Cripple Creek last season.
20: Ice artisans, approximately, said to be hired last winter in Cripple Creek. The work typically starts in late October or early November, when overnight temperatures drop to necessary levels.
20: Degrees desired for building the Ice Castles, but ideally colder than that.
11: Weeks that Cripple Creek’s Ice Castles remained open last season. Compared with other locations over the years, that was a long run. Closer to five or six weeks has been expected.
2011: Year that Ice Castles was founded. Owner Brent Christensen had the idea after building a winter playground for his kids in the front yard of their Utah home.
4: Locations for Ice Castles in recent years, including Cripple Creek; Midway, Utah; Maple Grove, Minn.; and North Woodstock, N.H. Eagle is listed as a fifth this winter.
27: Dollars required for an adult weekend ticket to visit Cripple Creek’s Ice Castles last winter. Monday-Thursday tickets were $21.
135,000: Tickets, approximately, said to be sold last winter in Cripple Creek.
Source: City of Cripple Creek, Ice Castles
Make it a holiday to remember by pairing thousands of twinkling lights with dozens of live animals at the three largest zoos along the Front Range.
From Pueblo to Denver, the fun begins in November and continues through the first weekend of January. Here is a look at the options:
Cheyenne Mountain Zoo: Electric Moonlight, an adults-only event Dec. 5, features holiday lights, live music, select animal exhibits, and indoor samples of sodas, alcoholic beverages and food from area restaurants. Advance tickets are required. The zoo’s annual Electric Safari opens Dec. 6 and runs nightly through Jan. 1 (except Dec. 24). The event features 85 light sculptures on more than 50 acres. Visit select animal exhibits, take photos with illuminated inflatable animals and watch the holiday-themed drone show. cmzoo.org
Denver Zoo: Starting Nov. 23 and continuing nightly through Jan. 5 (except Dec. 25), Denver Zoo Lights features 3 million LED lights shining across 80 acres. The zoo’s caretakers leave it up to the animals to decide if they want to participate, though Dusty the ostrich enjoyed the lights last year and came out front to sit and stare. denverzoo.org
Pueblo Zoo: ElectriCritters combines thousands of lights with holiday treats and music as you visit with the animals. The holiday event runs Fridays through Sundays from Nov. 29 to Dec. 15 and daily Dec. 20-23 and Dec. 26-29. pueblozoo.org
Also: Colorado Wolf and Wildlife Center, a nonprofit sanctuary west of Colorado Springs, invites guests to visit with the animals Dec. 22 during “Winter Wonderland with the Wolves.” The event includes breakfast burritos. Reservations are required. wolfeducation.org
YMCA’s Snow Mountain Ranch is a ‘hidden gem’ of endless fun
new meaning to the song. “It’s fun to stay at the YMCA ...”
“Where else can you bring the grandparents, the parents and the grandkids and put them all together, and there’s something for everybody?”
Degginger said.
The nonprofit prides itself as a more affordable option. The kids can be fed from the dining hall or kitchen in their overnight cabin before moving on to the swimming pool, the arts and crafts center, or the Kiva Recreation Center, home to roller skating, rock climbing, basketball, volleyball, table tennis and — perhaps for the grandparents, yes — pickleball.
Free nightly activities include bingo, dodgeball, story time and hot chocolate in the library, and the highly anticipated “human hungry hippos.”
Maybe the kids and kids at heart return to rooms lacking TVs. That’s kind of the point here where fresh, frosty air beckons, where moose and elk might be seen moving across the trail network.
Reads another sign along the entrance road: “Where quality time happens naturally.”
The nonprofit’s mission is read elsewhere: “YMCA of the Rockies puts Christian principles into practice through programs, staff and facilities
in an environment that builds healthy spirit, mind and body for all.”
“For all” is the common refrain here.
“We have faith, but we don’t push a particular faith,” Steve Peterson said.
Peterson was the longtime chaplain here before turning his sporting hobby into his vocation. He now runs the dogsled tours. The activity is but one aspect of Snow Mountain Ranch’s unique education, Peterson said: “It’s experiential learning. The opportunities for that are limitless.”
The opportunities lend to a Neverland feel here. Seasonal staffers vie for chances to return or for long-term employment. That includes Bailey Kretschmer, who is grateful now for her position as assistant programs director.
It’s not exactly what she had in mind with her degree in biomedicine. But she struggled to turn away from this world of fun — away from the kind of families she’s come to meet.
“For a lot of them, it’s their first time seeing snow or their first time in the mountains,” Kretschmer said. “Or sometimes their first time seeing the Milky Way.”
The sense of wonder endures.
“It gets real easy to get sucked in and stay,” Degginger said.
She’s stayed for 20 years. But it
hasn’t all been dreamy for her and her husband.
It was the opposite in 2012. Their firstborn child had been diagnosed with cancer. Riley would die at age 5. When Degginger calls her colleagues at Snow Mountain Ranch her family, she means it. “When I say they supported us, they supported us,” she said. They kept her home clean. They brought meals. They told her not to worry about work, not to worry about anything other than Riley, to just spend time with her boy.
It was precious, precious time. And if it had to be spent somewhere, Snow Mountain Ranch was as good a place as any, Degginger thinks. There was fun all around, good memories to be made amid the pain.
“It was a horrible reason to have to feel that, but it was a wonderful thing,” Degginger said.
It’s always wonderful to see Peterson, the chaplain-turned-dog musher. He was there holding Degginger’s hand during the diagnosis, and he’s been here ever since.
He’s here getting a dog sled ready for a visiting father and son. Degginger has stopped to say hello. A big hug is shared before the tour takes off, and another memory is made to last a lifetime.
GRANBY • The road weaves through young pines, short enough that the view is unobstructed: the Continental Divide, Indian Peaks and high points of this western side of Rocky Mountain National Park. The sky seems endless above. Below, a snowy canvas of endless possibilities.
A sign along the road points the way: “Now entering the 5,000-acre memory maker.”
Welcome to Snow Mountain Ranch.
“I feel like it’s a hidden gem,” said Michael Ohl, the general manager.
Not that it’s hard to find; YMCA of the Rockies’ largest property is in easy reach off U.S. 40 between Winter Park and Grand Lake. Though, Snow Mountain Ranch does tend to hide in the shadow of the Estes Park camp, on the other, more traveled side of Rocky Mountain National Park.
YMCA of the Rockies in recent years has reported about 210,000 annual visitors through conferences, youth camps and family vacations. Ohl said about a quarter of those visitors are coming to Snow Mountain Ranch.
They find much more open space here: about 5,100 acres compared with Estes Park’s acreage closer to 900.
They find much more of a winter destination — proclaimed by a groomed Nordic trail system roaming 50 miles around cabins, multi-story lodges and several play zones.
“I talk to a lot of people who’ve heard of this place but never stopped in,” said Mary Ann Degginger, Snow Mountain Ranch’s programs director.
“I’ve talked to people who live in this community who say they’ve driven by it but never pulled in.”
Many other locals do pull in as
1969: Year that Snow Mountain Ranch was established, to be YMCA grounds for youth camps, family vacations and retreats. It was property of the Just family, who homesteaded here in the 1880s.
5,100: Acres at Snow Mountain Ranch. That’s more than five times the size of YMCA of the Rockies’ Estes Park camp. Of other YMCA retreats, only Frost Valley in New York’s Catskill Mountains is slightly bigger at 5,500-plus acres.
members of the Nordic center. They are free to ski to their heart’s desire through snowy meadows and higher, scenic forests. Friends and families ski in and out of trail-side cabins. Those are booked in sizes ranging from two bedrooms to eight bedrooms hosting generational reunions.
It’s far from just cross-country skiing here. Some opt for snowshoes or fat bikes. Many take to the steep, thrilling hill for sledding and tubing. Beside that hill is the ice rink for skating. Families board sleds pulled by Alaskan huskies. Others catch a horse-drawn sleigh ride. And others rent downhill skis and head to Winter Park.
It’s no wonder families make Snow Mountain Ranch their base camp for ski vacations. It’s no wonder those multi-generational reunions flourish.
Yes, Snow Mountain Ranch gives
2,000: Beds, approximately, available at Snow Mountain Ranch, across multi-story lodges and cabins. Estes Park’s more in-demand facilities hold closer to 5,000 beds. Yurts and campgrounds also are booked in the summer at Snow Mountain Ranch.
73: Cabins mapped at Snow Mountain Ranch, ranging in size from two to eight bedrooms. The cabins are “adopted” by individuals lending financial support in exchange for first dibs on reservations.
Wild ice chaser hopes to inspire and educate too
Laura Kottlowski is, first and foremost, an explorer.
“And skating is a lot of times my vehicle,” she says.
That’s the opportunity that drives her to Colorado’s winter backcountry. The opportunity to skate atop a frozen alpine lake.
Kottlowski is Colorado’s famous wild ice skater. Her social media following has boomed for the better part of a decade, with legions of fans living vicariously through the lifelong figure skater who has taken her jumps, twists and twirls to some of the more stunning backdrops imaginable.
Onlookers have come to know an explorer first — Kottlowski embarking on snowshoes across treacherous terrain — and, yes, the ice skater carving intricate, white lines over a blue, glassy canvas set amid soaring peaks.
Now, Kottlowski calls herself more than an explorer and skater.
“In recent years I’ve become an ice scientist,” she says. “That stems from me being a main rescuer in an accident in Truckee, Calif., a few years ago.”
Kottlowski risked her life that day while trying to save fellow skaters who had fallen through the ice. One of them, a 72-year-old man, did not return to shore.
In coping with his loss, Kottlowski dove deeper into the nuances of ice that she thought she understood from nearly 15 years of wild ice skating. Fortunately, on that tragic day, she had a life vest and other self-rescue essentials including ice picks and rope.
But “I do this annually 200 hours a year, and I didn’t see that that was going to happen,” Kottlowski says. “I was mad at the wild ice scene for not being more vocal about sharing safety content and stuff like that.”
So she shifted her focus on social media. While she wanted to continue to inspire with images of a beautiful sport in a beautiful world, more than that she wanted to educate on ice science and safety.
“That’s why I built Learn to Skate Outside in the past few years,” Kottlowski says.
Her workshops aim to instill a healthy fear of wild ice skating. That’s while Kottlowski continues to skate against any fear.
Her goal endures: “finding the world’s most beautiful lake and skating on it.”
The lifestyle has taken her from the country’s highest lake off a peak above Breckenridge to more dizzying heights: Nepal’s Gokyo Lakes near 15,000 feet. Ice skating 30 miles on Colorado’s largest body of water, Blue Mesa Reservoir, made for another memory.
From her home in Idaho Springs, our conversation with Kottlowski covered more memories — starting with her figure skating origins as a child growing up in Pennsylvania.
What drew her to the sport: It’s the art of flying basically. Where you get that flight is all up to you. There’s no jump like in snowboarding or skiing. You have to make the force and lift yourself off the ice and into these jumps. That feeling of gliding and knowing you’re creating that energy, it feels like flying.
How she got started in Colorado: My boss introduced me to the fourteeners here, and so I started obsessing over hiking all the fourteeners. It was around the time I started hiking them in the winter when I discovered wild ice. And I was like, “Why don’t I have my skates with me? This is insane!”
What she loved about wild ice: This was the root of the sport, outside. We’re all used to these man-made arenas that in many ways have become materialistic from a competitive standpoint. Much of skating is so competitive. But when you’re out there in the wild, none of that matters. It’s just you and the ice. So it became kind of this meditative thing and exploratory thing.
What makes it worthwhile: What you see. It’s like the glass bottom of a boat. ... You’re skating over fish or sometimes turtles or weird mining stuff at the bottom of the lake that you wouldn’t normally see because of the reflections of water during summer.
How she has given back: Through my workshops, I have now trained over 80 to 90 people firsthand. All of the stories and information I tell them is a ripple effect. They have the story of my accident so they can share that and spread that. It’s creating that culture of safety.
Not every adventure has to be
SUMMIT COUNTY • Cozy in the window seat of the newly built log cabin, I peered out at the snow that had settled on the needles of the plentiful fir trees beyond. The sun was shining, bathing Bald Mountain in warmth even on this January day.
If I craned my neck, I could see ski tracks traveling up the hill. The rest of the group I’d trekked with to reach Sisters Cabin, a 10th Mountain Division Hut east of Breckenridge, were carving through the meadow’s softening powder before the sun set.
We’d spent the morning traversing four miles of trail through the woods (starting at French Gulch Trailhead) on backcountry skis. I was relatively new to
the sport and was eager to loosen my boots as soon as we arrived around lunchtime. When someone suggested a few pre–happy hour laps, I kindly demurred. My book — and that window seat — were calling.
Coloradans like to play hard. We wake up at 3 a.m. to hike 14,000-foot mountains, climb walls of ice and ski the narrowest of couloirs. At least, some do.
When I joined my friends on my first hut trip in 2013, to Eiseman Hut near Vail, I was in over my head. It required a six-mile ski on a backcountry setup I’d never used; I had no idea what skins (strips of fabric that attach to the bottom of skis for traction) even were. Due to navigation issues, it took almost an entire day to get from the trailhead to the cabin. The surrounding terrain was known for its steeps and couloirs. My adventure buddies were primarily avalanche-trained, advanced skiers and snowboarders, while I was a solid intermediate resort skier. While they hooted through thigh-deep powder the following day, I stayed inside, reading and playing cards.
But my downtime was diluted by an overwhelming sense of guilt. How could I make the effort to journey this deep into the wilderness and not experience the wilderness? Wasn’t I, as a good Coloradan, supposed to go hard all the time? Shouldn’t I also be chasing face shots on those picturesque slopes? It’s taken many years and many more adventures to wash myself of those notions. The outdoors do not exist to be mastered or conquered. At least, not all the time. I spend enough of my day-to-day routine setting and targeting goals for my business and for myself. Mother Nature offers a much-needed break from that achievement mindset. It’s a place where I can just be. Where everyone is, and should be, welcome.
That doesn’t mean I’ve never aimed for the top of a fourteener or pushed myself to ski a harder line or attempt a tougher mountain bike route. I want to challenge myself and try new things — and, as any outdoorsperson knows, many of the most astonishing views require effort to see. But I’ve managed to find a balance between those ambitions and simply basking
in the beauty of where I’ve chosen to live, whether that’s relaxing around a campfire, floating on a stand-up paddleboard or trading an alpine ski day for an easy snowshoe. I finally settled into that comfort zone during my trip to Sisters Cabin. It was a group outing with women I didn’t know well. I didn’t have anything to prove to them and, if they did judge me, I likely wouldn’t see them again anyway. When they headed out on those afternoon laps, I happily settled into my seat, the wood-burning stove flickering, and cracked open a new book. It was a rare opportunity to let my brain click off, with no cell service or to-do list to distract me.
The next morning, while they squeezed in a few more runs, I sipped hot tea and took in the panoramic view of the Tenmile Range and Breckenridge Resort. Soon, I’d have to buckle into my boots for the four-mile journey out. That would be enough of an undertaking for a Thursday. Until then, I wanted to bask in the gift of quiet that can only be found deep in the wilderness.
BY DALIAH SINGER
When the mercury drops, most Coloradans prefer to head indoors, especially after the sun goes down. But cold air (which holds less hazy moisture), longer nights and fewer crowds make winter the ideal time for constellation viewing.
Colorado is home to 15 certified International Dark Sky Places — 10 parks and five communities committed to preserving and protecting the night sky from light pollution. These efforts not only make it easier for stargazers to see and appreciate the beauty above but also can safeguard wildlife habitats and their natural rhythms.
Plan to visit some of our favorite celestial sanctuaries this season.
Dinosaur National Monument:
Straddling the Colorado–Utah border, Dinosaur National Monument is notable for its incredible array of dinosaur fossils and petroglyphs. So you’d be forgiven for not realizing a nighttime visit is worth your time too. On clear, moonless nights, more than 4,000 stars — and, perhaps, the International Space Station — might be visible to the naked eye. Split Mountain Campground is the monument’s designated stargazing location.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park:
An awe-inspiring chasm by day, Black Canyon is equally impressive at night thanks to limited artificial light. In the summer, the park partners with an astronomy society to host regular stargazing events. In the winter, drive or cross-country ski along the South Rim or join a ranger-led snowshoeing trek on a full moon night.
Florissant Fossil Beds
National Monument: You don’t have to travel far from the city to peek the constellations. Florissant Fossil Beds, less than an hour’s drive from Colorado Springs, benefits from what DarkSky International calls a “light-screening effect” in which the southern Front Range blocks urban light pollution from reaching the monument. The parking lot by Hornbek Homestead is always open to allow for public stargazing access.
Mesa Verde National Park: Another of Colorado’s archaeological wonders, Mesa Verde was once home to a thriving community of Ancestral Puebloans. Look up, and you’ll see a sky that’s relatively unchanged since they lived on the land. Though much of the park is closed to the public at night, overlooks and pullouts are safe observation spots for constellation-seekers.
Westcliffe and Silver Cliff: These sparsely populated towns in southern Colorado are protected from light pollution by two mountain ranges and are among the highest-elevation International Dark Sky Communities in the world — and the first to be named in Colorado. Head to Bluff and Summit Park, on the west end of Westcliffe’s Main Street, or the Alvarado or Hermit trailheads about 30 minutes from town for the best cosmic views.
Ridgway: Stargazing and hot springs? Yes, please. Both the town of Ridgway and nearby Top of the Pines recreation area are designated Dark Sky destinations, so there are plenty of opportunities to take in the stars. Our recommendation: Do so while soaking in one of the pools at Orvis Hot Springs (note that the property is clothing-optional).
• Use lighting only when necessary and aim it downward instead of flashing around.
• Pack red light-equipped flashlights and headlamps; they don’t impact your night vision or distract other stargazers.
• Pay attention to the moon; the darkest skies occur during or near the new moon phase.
• Allow your eyes at least 30 minutes to adjust to the darkness.
• Bring a star chart or download an app to help identify what you’re viewing.
Peak viewing dates for coming meteor showers:
• Northern Taurids, Nov. 11-12
• Leonids, Nov. 16-17
• Geminids, Dec. 13-14
• Ursids, Dec. 21-22
• Quadrantid, Jan. 2-3
Colorado’s most powder-crazed skiers have gotten to know the term “La Nina.”
That’s because the most powder-crazed skiers pay attention to forecasts well in advance of winter, and La Niña has come to the center of those forecasts in recent years. It is again at the center of predictions for this season.
La Niña refers to surface temperatures over large parts of the Pacific Ocean being cooler than average. El Niño refers to temperatures that are warmer than average.
“These sea surface temperature fluctuations can significantly influence global weather patterns, especially during the winter for the U.S.,” OnTheSnow.com explained in a report posted this fall.
It would be the fourth time in five years for a La Niña pattern, disrupted only by last season’s El Niño. And so we return to popular thinking.
“La Niña tends to organize the wintertime jet stream in a way that favors the Pacific Northwest and northern tier of states with the most consistent winter snowfall,” Denver meteorologist Chris Tomer wrote for OnTheSnow. He continued: “La Niña tends to leave California and the southern tier of states drier and warmer than normal.”
That would include most of Colorado. But Joel Gratz, the founding meteorologist of skiers’ go-to weather source OpenSnow, has cautioned against any conclusions based on historic correlations. When it comes to Mother Nature, Gratz explained, there
are any number of factors impossible to predict months in advance, let alone days in advance — the way the wind blows, for example.
“Some of this does come down to what meteorologists call internal variability, or we can just say dumb luck,” Gratz said ahead of the last La Niña pattern in 2022-23.
That season ended with snowfall well above average across the West, including much of Colorado. The previous La Niña of 2021-22 is remembered as largely below average. El Niño, said to better favor Colorado, resulted in what Gratz marked as average snowfall last season.
Translation: There is no definitive translation.
But, yes, La Niña’s historical trends favor northern states. So, party on, Oregon and Washington. Party on, northern Wyoming, Montana and Utah. Panic not, Colorado.
Tomer predicted above-average seasons for northerly Steamboat Springs and Vail, with Aspen on the edge of generous storm tracks. Tomer foresaw average seasons for southerly Telluride and Wolf Creek, as well as for resorts around the central mountains, including Breckenridge, Copper Mountain and Winter Park.
Average is far from bad in Colorado ski country, Gratz has pointed out.
“The secret to getting the most powder days is going out as often as you can,” he said. “If you’re out there, you have a chance to catch it.”
The lowdown on what’s new and what’s trendy in the high country
ARAPAHOE BASIN
What’s new: “The Legend” — with typically more operating days than any other ski area in North America — enters its first full season under the Ikon Pass-owning Alterra Mountain Co.
Mountain stats: 13,050-foot summit, 10,520-foot base
Where to eat: 6th Alley Bar & Grill is the spot for Bloody Marys and a hearty bite at the base. Farther out of sight is Il Rifugio, said to be the continent’s highest-elevation eatery at 12,456 feet. A-Basin’s newest eatery is Steilhang; warm up with German beer, sausage and strudel a short ski down from atop Lenawee Express.
ASPEN HIGHLANDS
What’s new: While locals are busy hoofing it to the mighty Highland Bowl, operators are looking to expand snowmaking on the lower slopes to improve early-season conditions.
Mountain stats: Highland Bowl at 12,392 feet, 8,040-foot base
Where to eat: Near the top of Cloud Nine Lift, Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro is a must-stop. The Switzerland-inspired cabin serves fondue and wine plus pops Champagne during more rowdy occasions overseen by a DJ. The view of the Maroon Bells is hard to beat.
What’s new: Ajax last season debuted its largest terrain expansion since the 1980s. The terrain is called Hero’s with 150 acres of chutes and glades above 10,000 feet.
Mountain stats: 11,211-foot summit, 7,945-foot base
Where to go: Close to the base gondola, visitors will find a music institution. That’s Belly Up Aspen, the small concert hall drawing big acts. Peep the calendar before swinging through town, and hope tickets aren’t sold out.
What’s new: If you haven’t been back in a few years, you might be surprised by the Tennessee Creek Basin terrain on the backside. The trails add an expert flair to Leadville’s small, historic ski area.
Mountain stats: 11,700-foot summit, 10,500-foot base Where to shop: You’ve seen the light, vibrant, cinched hoodies all over Colorado. Now’s the time for your own “Melly.” But don’t expect to find one at Melanzana, the fiercely independent store where the hoodies are handmade. You’ll want to book an advanced appointment online.
What’s new: Beaver Creek has spent the past few years separating itself as a family destination unlike any other in the industry. The resort calls its progressive learning terrain the Signature Parks Collection — lift-served McCoy Park is the latest addition. Mountain stats: 11,440-foot summit, 8,100-foot base
Where to eat: The prestigious Michelin Guide recognized a handful of restaurants in the Vail Valley. Check them out and make a reservation: Mirabelle, Splendido at the Chateau and WYLD are the ones around Beaver Creek.
What’s new: The Timberline Express is being upgraded from a four-person chair to a high-speed six-seater, increasing uphill capacity to cherished intermediate terrain. The replacement is part of Copper’s broader, multi-year effort enhancing the resort’s Western Territory. Mountain stats: 12,313-foot summit, 9,712-foot base Where to drink: If you’re an IPA lover, you already know about Outer Range Brewing Co. If you don’t happen to know — run, don’t walk. It’s a beautiful, two-story facility with an incredibly scenic deck.
What’s new: The popular base at Peak 8 has seen high-speed chair upgrades to increase flow. Now operators are eyeing a revamped Peak 9, with a proposed gondola, reimagined learning zone and lift replacement.
Mountain stats: 12,998-foot summit, 9,600-foot base
Where to go: No visit to Breck is complete without a side trip to see Isak Heartstone. The big wooden troll sits at the end of a short trail through a snowy forest. Trollstigen trailhead is in the southeast corner of the Stephen C. West Ice Arena parking lot.
What’s new: The Al Johnson Memorial Telemark Race is not new at all. This spring just happens to mark the start of a new decade. The race celebrated 50 years last season, bringing back costumed competitors honoring a 19th-century mountain mailman. Mountain stats: 12,162-foot summit, 9,375-foot base Where to eat: Make a reservation and splurge at The Slogar, named for the Slogar family who lived in this cabin in the late 1800s. Now patrons gather around tables for family-style fried chicken dinners, with all the biscuits, creamed corn and mashed potatoes you can eat.
What’s new: Officials cut the ribbon on a $23 million base renovation last year, centerpieced by the “sustainable and intuitive one-stop shop” guest services building. The project also added The Backyard, a sleek hangout for food and drinks.
Mountain stats: 9,900-foot summit, 7,870-foot base
When to go: Buttermilk every year hosts the X Games, bringing the world’s top winter sports athletes — not to mention star-studded parties — to Aspen. Festivities are set for Jan. 26-28.
What’s new: Colorado-based entrepreneur Dan Dietrich acquired Echo last year, the next to oversee the small ski area with several starts and stops going back to the 1960s. Mountain stats: 10,650-foot summit, 10,050-foot base Where to eat: Down in Idaho Springs, you’ll find the original home of “Colorado-style” pizza. Beau Jo’s began baking mountain-like pies here in the 1970s.
What’s new: Ignite Adaptive Sports has long connected people with disabilities to these Boulder County slopes. A new facility, Caribou Lodge, is expected to welcome those skiers this season and serve as Ignite’s base into the future.
Mountain stats: 10,600-foot summit, 9,360-foot base
Where to go: Whimsical Nederland might be best symbolized by the whimsical carousel in the heart of town. That’s the Carousel of Happiness, the indoor memory maker of hand-carved animals.
What’s new: Loveland Snowcat Tours in recent years expanded access to 580 acres of high-elevation bowls and glades in an area known as Dry Gulch.
Mountain stats: 13,010-foot summit, 10,800-foot base Where to drink: If you want to feel like you’re in on a secret — and if you’re needing a break from the weekend’s Interstate 70 traffic — exit at Silver Plume and mosey on over to the 1800s-era building where miners once resupplied on baked good. This is now Bread Bar, mixing up fine cocktails Friday through Sunday.
What’s new: Automated snowmaking and enhanced grooming have been part of the humble Grand County ski area’s long-term vision called Granby Ranch Rising. Mountain stats: 9,202-foot summit, 8,202-foot base
Where to stay: Granby Ranch is well-suited for skiing families, who might spoil themselves by making base at nearby Devil’s Thumb Ranch. It’s a rustic, sweeping getaway that offers cozy rooms, log cabins and endless fun activities.
What’s new: After many years of anticipation, Monarch this summer got the green light to expand to the other side of the Continental Divide. The goal is to have a lift and No Name Basin open for the 2025-26 season.
Mountain stats: 11,952-foot summit, 10,790-foot base Where to eat: Back down in Salida, stop to refuel with a big, hearty sandwich. Sweetie’s Sandwiches & Baked Excellence always delivers, with an expansive menu to match the epic proportions. We counted nearly 50 sandwiches at last check.
What’s new: Historically grounds for Steamboat Springs youth and pros training on jumps, Colorado’s oldest ski area has broadened its appeal to outsiders with new infrastructure, extended hours and friendly pricing. Mountain stats: 7,136-foot summit, 6,696-foot base Where to shop: Visitors get a glimpse of Steamboat’s skiing history at Howelsen. At F.M. Light & Sons, they get a glimpse of the town’s ranching heritage. The store has been outfitting local cowboys for more than 100 years.
What’s new: While prices increase pretty much everywhere else, the ski area on the Grand Mesa has announced “Mission Affordable” ahead of the 2024-25 season. That’s a pledge to freeze or reduce prices at the ticket window and cafeteria.
Mountain stats: 9,850-foot summit, 8,200-foot base Where to eat: Grand Junction’s food scene has steadily grown to harness the flavors of local farms. Among the recommended spots: Cafe Sol, Bin 707 Foodbar, The Winery, 626 on Rood and Tacoparty.
What’s new: Those in the know had long been hiking to the wonders of Bergman Bowl. The Bergman Express, however, is now providing a ride up.
Mountain stats: 12,408-foot summit, 9,280-foot base Where to shop: The Outlets at Silverthorne are a 10-minute drive from the base. Two birds, one stone: Get your fix on the slopes, then get those last-minute Christmas gifts.
What’s new: Last season’s announcement of $29 lift tickets turned heads. It was a bit of a marketing ploy; demand-based pricing means the chance at cheap tickets, yes, but not necessarily on busy days. The point: The Durango-area resort is pushing to grow its clientele.
Mountain stats: 10,822-foot summit, 8,793-foot base
Where to stay: The historic Strater Hotel is a Victorian marvel commanding a corner of downtown. If you can’t snag a room, you at least need to check out the old-time Diamond Belle Saloon. Happy hour is 4-6 p.m. Monday to Friday.
What’s new: The extreme, single-lift outpost was acquired last year by a pair of friends who’d been operating Heli Adventures Inc., the business similarly aimed at high-octane thrills.
Mountain stats: 13,487-foot summit, 10,400-foot base
Where to go: On the opposite end of the skiing spectrum is Kendall Mountain Ski Area, the family hill with a short lift serving a short series of green runs. Families might also hit the sledding hill or ice rink.
What’s new: Snowmass is unveiling the Coney Express this season, a high-speed quad effectively replacing the Coney Glade chairlift. The Express figures to significantly increase out-of-base flow, including also a midway station accessing the terrain park and unlocking foot access to Lynn Britt Cabin. Mountain stats: 12,510-foot summit, 8,104-foot base Where to stay: Hotel Jerome and The Little Nell are two bucket-list stays in Aspen. The former is historic, the social center of town dating to 1889, while the latter is the five-star retreat with luxury suites, fine dining and a spa.
What’s new: The resort added another feather to its cap in 2024: “best overall ski resort in North America.” That was the honor from OnTheSnow’s Visitors’ Choice Awards.
Mountain stats: 13,150-foot summit, 8,725-foot base
Where to eat: “World’s Best Pizza” is a lofty claim. But Brown Dog Pizza apparently has the hardware to back it up — gold from the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas. You be the judge, sampling both the traditional crust and the thick, Detroit pan-style made here.
What’s new: The Avanti Food & Beverage halls in Denver and Boulder are big hits. Now one is coming to the resort’s Golden Peak. Powerline Pub also will debut at the top of Mid-Vail.
Mountain stats: 11,570-foot summit, 8,120-foot base
Where to eat: The Michelin Guide’s suggested restaurants in Vail: Sweet Basil and Osaki’s Sushi & Japanese Cuisine. Inspectors noted Sweet Basil’s tempura-fried mahi mahi tacos, bone marrow pho with scallop and miso black garlic-glazed halibut. Inspectors loved Osaki’s sushi, niche Japanese specialties and “sweet and meaty” snow crab.
What’s new: The $220 million, multi-year, multi-faceted Full Steam Ahead initiative has culminated in a terrain expansion making Steamboat the second largest ski resort in Colorado.
Mountain stats: 10,568-foot summit, 6,900-foot base Where to go: For being fairly small and remote, Steamboat Springs has a surprising music scene. Will it be Schmiggity’s Live Music & Dance Bar? Or the locally beloved Old Town Pub? Then there’s the press., the intimate nook commonly hosting acoustic talents.
What’s new: This season expects to be a celebratory send-off for the chairlift said to be the longest running in Colorado, traced to the 1950s. The Glenwood Springs ski area plans to replace Segundo for next season.
Mountain stats: 9,895-foot summit, 7,885-foot base
Where to go: While Glenwood’s most famous hot springs destination is the one with the massive pool, Iron Mountain Hot Springs continues to build its fan base. More than a dozen pools have been added to the terrace overlooking the Colorado River. It’s an adults-only area, with several more scenic dips on the other side of the property for families.
What’s new: The resort this summer announced “Winter Park Unlocked” — a longterm vision foreseeing a massive terrain expansion, a redeveloped base area and a “ski back trail” connecting to town.
Mountain stats: 12,060-foot summit, 9,000-foot base
Where to drink: Locals and tourists converge at Randi’s Grill & Pub. After a hardearned day on the mountain, the warm Irish pub hits the spot with big mugs of beer and comfort grub.
What’s new: This will mark the first full season for the Tumbler lift, the fixed-grip quad introduced last spring. It was built with beginners in mind, situated near terrain designed for them.
Mountain stats: 11,904-foot summit, 10,300-foot base Where to go: After a cold, taxing day on the slopes, warm up and rejuvenate in Pagosa Springs’ geothermal waters. The Springs Resort offers the most pools beside the San Juan River, while nearby Healing Waters Resort & Spa is the intimate, family-owned spot. Enjoy soaking tubs with a view at Overlook Hot Springs.
You may ask yourself, “is it weird to be in love with an airport?”
But with the amenities, conveniences, and welcoming customer service at Colorado’s small airport, we completely understand the feeling. So lean into your affections when you Fly COS, and fall in love with Colorado’s small airport.
Colorado ski country is the home of continent’s two highest restaurants
kiers and snowboarders headed to the slopes are accustomed to catching chairlifts to the top of the mountain. While elevation gain is part of the journey, rarely do we consider how remarkable it is to ski and ride on top of the world. But two spots — Il Rifugio at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area and Alpino Vino at Telluride Ski Resort — use their stunning, oxygen-defying locations to full advantage.
These are the two highest restaurants on the continent. And within that very niche category, they each have claims to fame. Il Rifugio, a European-style bistro situated in the patrollers’ hut at the top of Lenawee Express and the Beavers Lift, is the highest of all at 12,456 feet. Meanwhile, Alpino Vino, perched at 11,966 feet alongside legendary ski run See Forever, is North America’s highest fine dining restaurant.
In either case, the access is ski-in, ski-out and the Alpslike views are unmatched, especially when accompanied by a glass of wine or bubbly.
Of the two, Il Rifugio is decidedly more casual, with table service and a small menu of coffee and pastries in the morning and antipasti, cheese boards, soup and flatbreads at lunch, plus a list of European beers and wines. The building is solar-powered with no running water, but that only makes the experience all the more impressive.
With windows on three sides and a deck, there’s not a bad table in the place. That said, if the rail overlooking the Norway Face and Powerline runs is available, ask to sit there. The must-have order? The antipasto platter that arrives heaped with cheeses, cured meats, roasted tomatoes, grilled artichoke hearts, olives and fig jam. Warm bread comes on the side and, when that’s gone, there are complimentary breadsticks. A half order of the antipasto generously serves two, especially if you’re sipping a Paulaner Hefe-Weizen. If it’s your lucky day, fighter jets from one of Colorado’s military bases will conduct a flyby, which is made all the better when Il Rifugio’s staff cues up the theme song to “Top Gun.”
Roughly 300 miles to the southwest, Alpino Vino awaits with two distinct dining experiences: lunch and dinner. With charcuterie boards and a signature soup, the lunch menu might appear similar to Il Rifugio’s, but it’s more extensive with a selection of high-end panini and pasta. (Of note: The signature grilled cheese sandwich with double cream Colorado cheese, basil pesto, roasted tomatoes and arugula lives up to its outsized reputation.) There’s also wine service with a dedicated sommelier, a largely Italian list and gorgeous stemware.
The interior is very cozy, with sheepskin-draped chairs, rough-hewn tables and a roaring fireplace (the property was once a private home). But if the sun is shining, outside on the multi-tiered deck (with daybeds and more sheepskins) is where you want to be. This affords guests panoramic views of the Wilson Range — if it looks vaguely familiar, check out the logo for the Coors Brewing Co. In the evening, a handful of guests (by reservation only) travel to Alpino Vino via a tricked-out snowcat for chef Ryan Meredith’s four-course, prix fixe dinner. While the menu is always Northern Italian, Meredith’s offerings change every few weeks based on available seasonal ingredients. No matter the menu, patrons can count on exquisite dishes with equally special wine pairings.
Not everyone goes to the mountains to ski (or snowshoe or dogsled). Some simply want a change of scenery for their three square meals a day. Luckily, the high country is delivering with a lineup of new eateries, some of which will mark their first winter in 2024 and others that will be ready to refuel hungry diners as the season deepens. Our suggestion: Get to these eight new restaurants before everyone else hears about them.
Location: Breckenridge
Opened: June
Upscale restaurant Tin Plate Pizza welcomed a neighboring walk-up pizza spot over the summer. Named for restaurateur James Harris’ trio of kids, Three Daughters serves New York–style slices and 16-inch pies made from a biga starter (the same ingredient used in ciabatta) alongside breadsticks and chewy Dynamite Cookies.
Location: Silverthorne
Opened: June
Featuring a fun-for-allages indoor playground, The PlayGarten leans into the entertainment dining trend that’s taken root across the country. While kids try to dunk on the basketball hoops or whoosh down slides, adults can enjoy the self-serve beer taps and arcade games. When you’re ready to refuel, order grub from any of the myriad food vendors inside Bluebird Market.
Location: Crested Butte
Opened: July
This winter will be the first for Two Twelve, where the mountain American menu is built on local ingredients and open-hearth cooking (think: fire-roasted garlic–leek soup, black Angus filet from Craig and fruit-forward desserts). The Elk Avenue eatery is from the same team behind two Crested Butte icons: Secret Stash Pizza and Bonez Tequila Bar & Grill.
Location: Aspen
Opening: Fall
The renowned downtown music venue is set for expansion: an upstairs lounge and restaurant will get guests in the mood for a night of fun with pre-show cocktails and bites. Upcoming shows include The Chainsmokers in December and Lyle Lovett in February.
Location: Vail
Opening: Winter
The wildly popular Italian eatery at Denver Union Station is expanding to the high country with its second location, slated for Four Seasons Resort and Residences Vail. Expect an all-Italian wine list, a wide-ranging digestif program and beautifully composed Italian dishes from one of the top restaurant groups in the state.
Location: Estes Park
Opened: June
The “base camp for Rocky Mountain National Park” does not always get equal winter billing with its Interstate 70 counterparts, but it’s just as enticing a locale for those looking to play in the snow. Visitors can now do so fueled by slow-brewed coffee, fresh-made Danishes, scones, biscuits and gravy, and more from locals Andrea Baran and Hannah Rose.
Location: Aspen
Opening: Winter
Akin to its sister restaurant in New York City, Wayan Aspen will serve a menu of French-Indonesian cuisine from chef Cédric Vongerichten and his wife, Ochi. That translates to lobster noodles with black pepper sauce and Colorado lamb satay — the belly-warming dishes one needs after a day on the slopes.
Location: Vail
Opening: 2025
Like its counterparts in Denver and Boulder, Avanti Vail will be a food hall serving multiple dining concepts (five, to be exact), including a grab-and-go market and coffee shop, plus indoor and outdoor bars. The eatery is taking over the Larkspur Restaurant space at Vail Resort’s Golden Peak base area, an oft-overlooked — read: less crowded — section of the mountain.
Just as winter is about skiing in the mountains in Colorado, it’s about finding comfort back home. It’s about finding a taste of home — that heavy chow that brings us warmth and brings us back. Consider these feasts across the Front Range:
Gray’s Coors Tavern, Pueblo: We can’t talk about comfort food in Colorado without talking about the slopper. And Gray’s is the acclaimed birthplace of the open-faced burger popularly smothered in green chili. Some go with red chili, spooning it up with the fries and chopped onions.
Luchals, Colorado Springs: Inside CO.A.T.I. Uprise, the hip downtown food hall, Luchals has wowed with Southern delights such as hot and sweet chicken wings, fried catfish, fried green tomatoes, and savory shrimp and grits. The hospitality has expanded to a location in Fountain.
Edelweiss German Restaurant, Colorado Springs: It’s a family-owned institution, with the food to match the cozy setting transporting guests to Germany; sometimes musicians in lederhosen serenade the dining room. Chow down on doughy pretzels, schnitzels and bratwurst.
Castle Cafe, Castle Rock: The fried chicken is known to still be crackling from
the cast-iron skillet when it arrives to the table. It arrives with a family-style spread also including homemade rolls, veggies, and mashed potatoes and gravy. Save room for hot spinach and artichoke dip.
Latke Love, Littleton: It’s not your average latke, not that fried potato pancake you might have in mind. It’s fistshaped latke under piles of irresistible, genre-bending toppings. “Rabbi, I’m Confused” is a favorite: smoked, saucy, tangy pulled pork and pickled red onion.
La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal, Denver: Loyal customers frequent this hideaway specializing in the traditional Mexican soup. Pozole is a well-seasoned, aromatic soup made with hominy and meat. More know this after La Diabla earned a spot in Colorado’s first Michelin Guide.
The Ginger Pig, Denver: This is another spot that got Michelin love. Chef-owner Natascha Hess lets her imagination
and love for Asian food run wild. Don’t miss the Korean corn dog, Hong Kong French toast and Ants Climbing a Tree, but one spicy noodle bowl on the menu.
Mac Nation Cafe, Indian Hills: Alton McCullough has created mac and cheese to honor about every state. The New Mexico blends jalapenos, cream cheese and bread crumbs while the Alabama is a mix of sauteed shrimp, bacon, ricotta, sweet corn, tomato and green onion.
Switchback Smokehouse, Kittredge: The barbecue is admittedly best enjoyed in the summer, on the patio by the creek. But the meats hit no less in winter. They are the expected (pulled pork, chicken, ribs) and unexpected (smoked duck, Montreal brisket, candy-like bacon).
Waltzing Kangaroo, Fort Collins: The stated mission of the Australian owners is “to share the world’s most perfect food: the Aussie meat pie.” What lies inside the flaky crust? Steak and pepper gravy in one; lamb and rosemary gravy in another; and plenty of others too.
“Pagosa” derives from a Ute word said to mean “healing waters.” Settlers would flock, overtaking unobstructed grounds forever roamed by tribes, and a town would rise around these bubbling waters in southwest Colorado.
Army surveyor and explorer Capt. James Macomb was one who came by this mountainous, river-streaked land where steam rose into the sulfur-smelling air. In his 1859 journal, he predicted: “It can hardly be doubted that in future years it will become a celebrated place of resort.”
Right he was.
Pagosa Springs claims the “Mother Spring,” said to be the world’s deepest geothermal spring. It is the source of several dips that simmer around town — the source indeed of the resort economy that thrives during winter.
While soaking is the main draw during the colder months, there is much more to do around Pagosa.
The Springs Resort is the most celebrated destination in town. It was famously the destination of legendary talk show host Oprah Winfrey; the “O” Suite is in her honor, among luxurious accommodations here. An overnight gets you around-the-clock access to the terrace of multi-size, multi-temperature pools overlooking the San Juan River.
Nearby is family-owned Healing Waters Resort & Spa, the more affordable, more rustic option. Hotel rooms, larger suites and park model cabins are situated around a hot springs-fed pool and outdoor and indoor hot tubs.
Meanwhile, Overlook Hot Springs differentiates itself with the view. Soaking tubs are perched atop a Victorian roof in the heart of town, overlooked by the stunning San Juans.
Train your eyes up and down the river. Locals have known their own “hippie dips,” forming rocks around hot spots.
Up the pass from town, Wolf Creek Ski Area is regarded as a hidden gem across Colorado ski country. The family-owned ski area bypasses the resort frills and crowds more common to the Interstate 70 corridor and packs on the powder. Wolf Creek claims to receive more natural snowfall on average than any other ski area in the state.
If you prefer flatter terrain and saving money on a ticket — we’re talking free here — check out the cross-country trails groomed by Pagosa Nordic Club. The network is detailed on the nonprofit’s website. Also free: ice skating on the ponds at River Center Park, when conditions allow.
For a more unique mode of winter travel, stop by San Juan Sled Dogs and Mountain Paws Dog Sled Tours. And if snowmobiling sounds appealing, book guides with Third Generation Outfitters and Wolf Creek Snowmobile Tours.
Like every other classic Colorado town, Pagosa Springs boasts a selection of craft beer. And not just any craft beer, but “earth-powered beer,” referring to the Mother Spring’s geothermal energy. It’s the energy said to heat water in Riff Raff Brewing Co.’s recipes.
Maybe that’s where your craft beer tour starts. You’d be wise to eat up before imbibing: The Break Room Brewing Co.’s beer is as beloved as its chicken fried steak, among hearty grub on the menu. Pagosa Brewing Co. could round out your tour. Or maybe you want to see what’s pouring and cooking in the ovens at Mountain Pizza & Taproom.
If you’d rather have wine, Cork & Board has a long list to go with charcuterie. For cocktails and vibes, The Neon Mallard is a go-to. And then there’s the go-to for happy hour: Kip’s Grill for tacos and margaritas.
Steep grades. Hairpin turns. Massive drop-offs.
Colorado roads can be scary in any season, but winter ushers in an extra level of fear.
As a skiing enthusiast who’s lived in the state for 10-plus years, I’ve had my fair share of close calls on slick mountain roads. One white-knuckle drive on a February morning several years ago is one I still can’t shake.
The forecast (new snow!) seemed ideal for a weekend of skiing in Summit County with friends. And, as planned, Saturday went well. Sunday promised to be even better.
Then the forecast began to change; more snow was predicted with the storm. So we decided to pivot on the initial plan of another full day of skiing. Instead, we would ski for a half day and beat the traffic (and storm) out of town. After all, we didn’t want to get stuck behind the many others who “didn’t know how to drive in the snow.”
We woke that next morning to a foot of fresh powder, and the flakes were still flying. The storm had arrived early. But we loaded into my sporty sedan, intent on following through on the previous night’s
Sometimes the real adventure is just getting home from the slopes
decision.
Established plans changed about as soon as the vehicle’s tires started rolling, spurred by a brief struggle to exit the hotel’s parking lot. Without debate, we knew we weren’t making it to the slopes that day, with the question now being how to safely make it back to Colorado Springs: via Interstate 70 or Hoosier Pass.
Having the final say, I opted for Hoosier Pass and hoped my all-wheel-drive would perform as advertised.
After struggling to get through Breckenridge, we made it to the base of the Hoosier Pass climb. Whiteout conditions were there to greet us.
Inching forward at 5 mph behind a line of vehicles much larger and more capable than mine, we pressed on through deep
snow with fingers crossed. Each time traffic slowed, the wheels would spin on the slick surface. But each time, the tread on the tires eventually caught and the vehicle kept climbing.
Finally, we crested the Continental Divide at 11,500 feet, and everyone in the car shared a sigh of relief. It would be mostly downhill from there.
Granted, descending posed its own risks. Any momentum we gained now seemed to work against us. Better-equipped vehicles were moving much faster now, passing our slow and mostly controlled roll at every available opportunity despite very poor visibility.
Thankfully, no tragedy accompanies this story. After a few more gut-wrenching moments over a couple of mountain passes and through an icy canyon, we saw a familiar sight that cut through the blowing snow: the sign for Rudy’s “Country Store” and Bar-B-Q on the west side of Colorado Springs.
It had been about six hours since we’d left the hotel, and everyone in the car was desperate for the chance to put their feet back on solid ground. I pried my fingers off the wheel, took a deep breath and happily joined them inside.
In the storybook adapted into a movie, kids board a train bound for the North Pole, delighting in music and hot chocolate and whimsical characters along the way. “The Polar Express” plays in our living rooms every holiday season. But the real adventure is found along some of Colorado’s historic railroads.
Let the imagination run with these scenic, festive trips for the whole family:
Royal Gorge Route Railroad
One option is the Holiday Train, an option well-suited for couples and friends who enjoy a meal and a cocktail through the snow-streaked, Arkansas River-cut canyon of southern Colorado. Then there’s the newer Santa Express. The kids won’t soon forget the decorations, carols, cookies and cocoa. Santa has a gift for each of them.
Georgetown Loop Railroad
Groups of two to four can reserve a table for food and drink or grab a seat in the coach cars, where Santa will be coming around to check his list. Most popular is the nighttime train through Santa’s Lighted Forest — a magical journey through the trees aglow. After Christmas through New Year’s Day, the Georgetown train shifts to its Victorian Holiday Celebration.
Durango & Silverton
Narrow Gauge Railroad
“The Polar Express” is re-created on this venture through the winter wonderland that is the San Juan Mountains. Golden tickets are punched, hot chocolate is served, the book is read between holiday jingles, and lights twinkle in the eyes of passengers young and old. The destination, of course, is the North Pole, where Santa steps aboard with the first gift of Christmas.
Colorado Railroad Museum
Here’s a “Polar Express” option closer to families on the Front Range. The Golden museum transforms its pavilion into a jolly gathering place complete with hot cocoa and sweets. The pavilion is a stage, too, for a cabaret-style performance straight out of the movie. The singing and dancing elves continue on the train, all culminating with a visit from Santa.
BY AMANDA M. FAISON
Make it a winter to remember with Breckenridge sleigh ride
As if the mountains in winter weren’t picturesque enough, add a horse-drawn sleigh dancing across freshly fallen snow and, well, swoon. That Instagram-perfect visual is just what Breckenridge’s Golden Horseshoe Sleigh Rides provides.
The company, in business since the 1980s, offers four ride options. The most popular is the Hot Cocoa Scenic Sleigh Ride, ideal for families with children. Most important — for the kids anyway — are the bottomless mugs of hot chocolate, made to order with 13 possible toppings (cue heaps of whipped cream, chocolate syrup and sprinkles). Two Belgian draft horses pull a sleigh for 20, jingling bells all the way. The half-hour excursion starts at Golden Horseshoe’s stables and glides its way up to a lookout with views of the historic Swan River Valley. There’s plenty of time built in to take pictures and meet the horses.
The most unique of Golden Horseshoe’s offerings is the Dinner Theater Sleigh Ride. A 25-minute trek through the woods delivers guests to an 1860s mining camp. A rough-hewn cabin is heated by two wood-burning stoves and fit with long, communal
tables set for dinner. Once everyone gets settled with their first course, the one-person show begins. Depending on the actors on hand, the shows rotate between “Mountain Man,” “Diamond Dixie the Dance Hall Girl,” and “The Unsinkable Molly Brown.
“It’s all historical characters and local stories, and it’s interactive,” owner Jenn Shimp says.
The evening winds down with hot apple pie baked in the wood-burning stoves, a big bonfire and cocktails at the rustic western bar. Of course, there’s also the dreamy sleigh ride back to the base. Shimp is quick to point out that although everyone rides to the mining camp together, there are multiple sleighs available for the return trip.
“It’s a group start, but not a group end,” she explains. The dinner theater rides take place on Wednesdays and Saturdays, January through March. Because of the interactive nature of the show, a minimum of 20 (maximum of 60) guests are required.
Golden Horseshoe also features private, one-horse open sleigh rides that can accommodate four but are especially perfect for romantic outings. (Shimp says the company hosts
an average of 140 proposals a year!) The sleek black sleigh is outfitted with a luxurious mink blanket. Champagne, flowers and chocolates (plus a photographer) can all be arranged ahead of time. Even if it’s not for a proposal, many couples celebrate an anniversary, birthday or other special occasion with this experience.
Lastly, the company offers private group rides for up to 20 on one of the big red sleighs. Shimp says this is a popular option for family reunions and groups looking for a fun, one-of-a-kind experience. Add Champagne and chocolate and, boom, you’ve created a core memory.
Golden Horsehoe’s season is dictated by snowfall, with sleigh rides beginning as early as Dec. 1 or as late as Dec. 25 and running until April 1.
“Our trails are wooded so the snow doesn’t melt as quickly as other places,” Shimp says. “We’re also in the middle fork of the Swan River Valley, and we tend to get more snow than other areas.”
As you might expect, the holidays are an especially busy time, with reservations already filling.
Think roping, horseback riding and cowboy coffee are summer-only pursuits? Think again. Ranches don’t stop operating during winter, and some of the best dude ranches in the state welcome guests even after the snow starts to fly. While the scenery is different, the Western hospitality remains the same at these eight dude and guest ranches.
C Lazy U Ranch, Granby: C Lazy U has a fair bit of experience when it comes to offering a flawless, all-inclusive vacation: the 8,500-acre ranch has been hosting visitors since 1919. Whether you’re roasting s’mores around the fire, horseback riding or snowshoeing along scenic trails, skating on the frozen pond or tubing down the private hill, there’s something for everyone. While the kids (ages 3-17) are enjoying their own club and horseback riding program, adults can retreat to the new Lazy You Hideaway spa lounge, with a cedar hot tub, sauna and cold plunges.
Open year-round
Devil’s Thumb Ranch, Tabernash: Set against the Front Range’s rugged slopes, Devil’s Thumb Ranch isn’t just known for its horseback riding. The 6,500-acre guest ranch is regularly voted one of the top Nordic ski areas in the country thanks to 14 miles of trails and access to dozens more across the broader Ranch Creek Valley. Fat biking and skijoring also can be enjoyed on those paths, along with a crêpe stand for refueling. New this year: an additional 1,000 vertical feet of backcountry cat skiing terrain. Those seeking relaxation should hightail it to the 10,000-square-foot, hand-hewn log spa.
Open year-round except for short closures in early November and mid-tolate April
Music Meadows Ranch, Westcliffe: Ranch life doesn’t stop when the weather turns — and neither does the fun. Horseback riding, ice fishing, snowshoeing, sleigh rides and the wood-fired hot tub are all available for winter visitors to this working cattle ranch. Tending to the cattle is an option as well. Music Meadows hosts one group at a time in its three-bedroom, two-bathroom Ranch House (originally a late 1800s homestead). Winter packages range from a four-day weekend to a weeklong option that includes three full riding days. Bonus: Westcliffe is an International Dark Sky Community so stargazing is a must.
Open year-round
Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch, Loveland: This family-owned working horse and cattle ranch is not even a three-hour drive from Colorado Springs, making it an ideal spot for a short getaway. (Tip: With the Bunk & Breakfast package, last-minute travelers can make reservations just two weeks before arrival.) Spend the day exploring the 3,200 acres on horseback or searching for a wide array of birds (keep an eye out for eagles) before bunking down in a cozy cabin.
Open year-round Latigo Ranch, Kremmling: Latigo Ranch offers something many ranches don’t: the opportunity to visit for only a day (with 24-hour advance reservation). The family-owned, all-inclusive property is well-regarded for its 30-plus miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat biking. And the surrounding forest offers ample options for backcountry skiing. The cabins are equipped with fireplaces or wood-burning stoves for hard-earned downtime.
Open Thursday through Monday from Dec. 20 to March 10
Three Forks Ranch, Savery, Wyo.: Though it’s just over the Centennial State’s northern border, Three Forks considers itself a Colorado getaway. And Colorado hero Lindsey Vonn is its ski ambassador, so we’ll give it a pass. The 280,000-acre property has a bit of everything: a private ski resort with 23 groomed runs, snowmobile and snowshoe trails, and even a biathlon course. Off the snow, the focus is on wellness at the Roaring Fork Spa — featuring a hydrotherapy spa, longevity and wellness retreats, and cooking classes led by Mayo Clinic-backed experts.
Open year-round
Sundance Trail Guest Ranch, Red Feather Lakes: One of Colorado’s smaller ranches, Sundance Trail offers something unique: no minimum stays, meaning you can visit for one night or five. It’s also a wheelchair- and pet-friendly property. In the colder months, two packages are available: one that includes morning trail rides and meals, and one that includes home-cooked breakfast. Plan to visit on New Year’s Eve for a special Murder Mystery Night event that features a thrilling story, midnight Champagne toast and a horseback ride the following day. Open year-round but closed Tuesday and Wednesday nights
Vista Verde Guest Ranch, Clark: Western hospitality is on full display at this all-inclusive, AAA four-diamond property 25 miles north of Steamboat Springs. Take a horseback ride in the surrounding Routt National Forest, work your quads on eight miles of groomed Nordic ski track, snowshoe in a winter wonderland on one of the backcountry trails or test your ice fishing skills. Prefer to stay inside? Join a leatherworking or photography class, enjoy a drink while the house band plays or simply unwind in a log cabin.
Open mid-December to mid-March
Nov. 8-Dec. 22: Christmas in the Gold Camps: Celebrate the season the old-fashioned way with light tours, Jingle Bell Ball and Christmas Parade, Cripple Creek; visitcripplecreek.com
Nov. 15-late January: Skate in the Park: Have some fun with friends on the ice while enjoying the only outdoor rink in the area, Acacia Park, Colorado Springs; downtowncs.com
Nov. 16: Pikes Peak Hospice & Palliative Care’s Trees of Life Tree Lighting: Remember loved ones and pay tribute to the military and first responders, Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum; pikespeakhospice.org
Nov. 20-Jan. 12: Blossoms of Light: A twinkling winter wonderland with luminous light displays, closed Nov. 28 and Dec. 25, Denver Botanic Gardens; botanicgardens.org
Nov. 22: Festival of Lights: A hometown tradition with live music, a tree lighting ceremony, a holiday market and carriage rides, Loveland; downtownloveland.org
Nov. 22-Dec. 23: Denver Christkindlmarket: German-style holiday market with craft and food vendors plus entertainment, Civic Center Park, Denver; christkindlmarketdenver.com
Nov. 22-Jan. 1: ICE!: “The Polar Express” will be brought to life with 10 immersive scenes and frozen slides, Gaylord Rockies, Aurora; christmasatgaylordrockies.marriott.com
Nov. 23: Starlighting: Enjoy hot chocolate, adult beverages, food trucks and strolling entertainers before the lighting of the star followed by fireworks, Castle Rock; crgov.com
Nov. 23-Jan. 1: Winter Wonderlights: A lights and music show, with three nights of additional performances, Chapungu Sculpture Park at Centerra, Loveland; visitlovelandco.org
Nov. 29: Grand Illumination: Take in the lighting of the outdoor 40-foot Christmas tree and enjoy visits with Santa and Mrs. Claus, Union Station, Denver; denverunionstation.com
Nov. 29: Catch the Glow Parade: A whimsical holiday parade with handcrafted floats, marching bands, fire trucks and other specialty vehicles, Estes Park; visitestespark.com
Nov. 29-Jan. 1: Trail of Lights: A winding path with lights that illuminate the countryside, Nov. 29-Dec. 1, Dec. 5-8, Dec. 12-24, Dec. 26-Jan. 1, Chatfield Farms, Littleton; botanicgardens.org
Nov. 30: Christmas Stroll: Get photos with Santa and meet Prancer the Reindeer while enjoying carolers and live entertainment, Old Colorado City; shopoldcoloradocity.com
Nov. 30: Pueblo Parade of Lights: A 30-year tradition in southern Colorado with festive floats and other holiday entertainment, Pueblo; puebloparadeoflights.com
Dec. 7: Reindeer Games: Kid-friendly, winter-themed activities include live reindeer, Santa, s’mores, hot chocolate, sleigh rides, Philip S. Miller Park, Castle Rock; crgov.com
Dec. 7: Tree Lighting: See more than 50 trees lighting up at once with caroling, a bonfire and treats, Larkspur Community Park, Larkspur; larkspurchamberofcommerce.com
Dec. 7: Festival of Lights Parade: Experience the magical feel of the season with floats embellished with lights and decorations, Colorado Springs; coloradospringsfestivaloflights.com
Dec. 7: 9NEWS Parade of Lights: Celebrating 50 years of Denver’s most magical tradition with floats, balloons, marching bands and cultural groups, Denver; winterindenver.com
Dec. 7: Lighting of Breckenridge and Race of the Santas: Kick off the season with Santa look-alikes running on Main Street and the town being transformed with 250,000 LED lights, Breckenridge; gobreck.com
Dec. 12-14: Ullr Fest: A Summit County celebration of all things winter and snow with a parade, bonfire and so much more, Breckenridge; gobreck.com
Dec. 12-15: Wintersköl Celebration: Annual toast to winter with on-mountain activities, snow sculptures, craft beer festival and fireworks on Aspen Mountain, Aspen; aspenchamber.org
Dec. 14-15: Mountain Village Holiday Prelude: Mountain Village will be transformed into the North Pole with train rides, visits with Santa and ice skating, Telluride; telluride.com
Dec. 21: Old-Fashioned Christmas Celebration: With more than 25 holiday-themed displays and activities, a hot air balloon glow, live music and games, Pagosa Springs; visitpagosasprings.com
Jan. 18-19: First Peoples Festival: A celebration of Indigenous culture, art, music, language and traditions with vendors, a powwow and a fashion show, Estes Park; estesparkeventscomplex.com
Jan. 20-29: International Snow Sculpture Championships: Teams from around the world carve 25-ton blocks of snow, with artists only allowed to use hand tools, Breckenridge; gobreck.com
Jan. 23-26: Ice Festival: Event transforms the town into an ice climbing mecca with people from around the world gathering to celebrate the sport, Ouray; ourayicepark.com
Jan. 24-26: Rio Frio Ice Fest: See ice carvings, run a frigid 5K, compete in a disc golf tournament, or endure an ice carousel and a polar plunge, Alamosa; riofrioice.com
Jan. 24-Feb. 2: Snowdown: The theme is Snowdown, the Board Game Edition: It’s Your Move with parade, “Snowdown Follies,” chili cook-off and Bloody Mary contest, Durango; snowdown.org
Feb. 5-9: Winter Carnival: Community event to celebrate athleticism and winter, showcasing Steamboat’s Western traditions and ski heritage, Steamboat Springs; sswsc.org
Feb. 6-9: High Plains Snow Goose Festival: One of the largest birding festivals in Colorado, where people flock to see the arctic waterfowl via the Western Central Flyway, Lamar; highplainssnowgoose.com
Feb. 15-23: Cripple Creek Ice Festival: You can vote on striking ice sculptures that embrace the joy of the winter season and take a cool ride on an ice slide, Cripple Creek; visitcripplecreek.com
March 1-2: Leadville Skijoring: A horse and rider pull a skier at a fast pace through a course that has gates, jumps and rings in a competition for cash prizes, Leadville; leadvilleskijoring.com
March 7-9: Crane Festival: Enjoy thousands of sandhill cranes, ducks and geese flying against a backdrop of mountain scenery where raptors adorn the power poles, Monte Vista; mvcranefest.org
At the center of the glamping craze across Colorado and beyond are yurts. These are the round, wood-framed tents paneled by windows looking out to surrounding beauty and topped by skylights letting in the stars and the moon.
Once refuges fashioned by Serbian and Mongolian nomads, yurts are now the highly sought, highly Instagrammed abodes up for reservation at select Colorado state parks yearround.
Winter could be a magical time to go.
Golden Gate Canyon: The park of pine, aspen and craggy promontories becomes a winter wonderland as temperatures begin to drop. Raise the enchantment with yurts sleeping up to six on two bunk beds. Stay warm with a heater inside or campfire ring outside.
Sylvan Lake: Drivers exit Interstate 70 for Eagle and quickly swap ski resort traffic for a rough road winding into the woods. The yurts are nestled far back among the aspens. They sleep up to six with bunk beds and futons. There’s a campfire ring right out the door.
Ridgway: The reservoir at the center of the park is the main draw in the summer. The yurts make a case in the winter. Sleeping up to six with a propane heater and gas log stove, they serve as memorable base camps for a getaway to the San Juans.
Pearl Lake: This scenic site is a hidden gem aptly named. Leave Steamboat Springs’ resort masses behind and venture on to the park that you very well might have to yourself. Feel free to explore or choose to stay nice and cozy in the yurt, which sleeps up to six.
State Forest: Yonder Yurts is the company overseeing the modernized accommodations at Colorado’s largest state park. The website lists a variety of yurts with a variety of sizes, views and means of access, ranging from short to 5-mile treks via snowshoes or skis.
Mancos: The park sits in an overlooked slice of southwest Colorado between Durango and Cortez, beside a mountain-framed reservoir that goes silent in the winter. Solitude awaits in the two yurts with wood lattice walls, pinewood floors and gas-heated log fireplaces.
Just because the ground is covered with snow doesn’t mean Leave No Trace rules no longer apply. Mountain ecosystems work overtime to survive in harsh weather. With a few tweaks to summer’s best practices, however, you’ll be able to enjoy Colorado’s winter wilderness in a low-impact way.
1. Travel lightly: Winter conditions typically lead to off-trail travel. The path often becomes a series of wandering footprints so carry a GPS to stay on track. If you find yourself off-route, steer clear of stepping on young trees and vegetation. Trees, especially saplings, are vulnerable to disruption during winter months.
2. When you gotta go, you gotta go: Just like during summer, always use the bathroom 200 feet from sources of water and trails. Be aware that, in winter, streams and waterlines often are covered in snow so consult your GPS prior to a potty break. Similarly, pack out any toilet paper and
waste in a ziplock bag.
In sensitive, high-alpine environments, use a specially designed bag such as a Wag Bag to store your waste. These bags are designed to break down waste with powder and gel in order to prevent a smelly situation. In non-sensitive areas, bury your waste deep in the snowpack. These rules also apply for four-legged companions.
3. Fire it up: Only burn downed wood. Never cut live trees because this not only harms the ecosystem, it produces a smoky fire that isn’t pleasant to sit around. Keep fires small in order to avoid damaging the environment. When it comes to warmth, the size of the fire doesn’t matter as much as the buildup of a coal bed. Use a stove for cooking.
Fires should be made from found dead wood. Wood bought in town and burned in the wilderness can introduce disease and bugs into the environment. During winter, vegetation is more susceptible so firewood
that is not sourced locally can spread disease. When you’re ready to extinguish the fire, cover it in snow and spread the cold ashes evenly if you aren’t using a preexisting fire ring.
4. Pitch a perfect camp: If you opt for an overnight jaunt in a winter wonderland, be sure to minimize your impact. First, select a campsite that is safe. Don’t pitch your tent in avalanche terrain, unstable snow or near dead trees. Unless it is absolutely necessary, avoid camping on tundra or exposed high-alpine terrain. Life in these environments grows slowly, and a tent can damage decades of growth.
Like during summer, you want to keep your camp 200 feet from water sources. However, you’ll want to consult your GPS to make sure you aren’t accidentally pitching your tent on or near a frozen lake. Not only is this dangerous, it impacts the delicate shore line environment.
THE QUIETER, WILDER SIDE. THE QUIETER, WILDER SIDE.
Just two hours from Denver, Grand Lake is a Just two hours from Denver, Grand Lake is a lakefront mountain paradise nestled against lakefront mountain paradise nestled against Rocky Mountain National Park. Uncover the wild Rocky Mountain National Park. Uncover the wild side of every season with boating on warm side of every season with boating on warm summer days, hiking through stunning fall summer days, hiking through stunning fall colors, snowmobiling across winter landscapes, colors, snowmobiling across winter landscapes, and skating on Colorado’s largest natural lake. and skating on Colorado’s largest natural lake. GoGrandLake.com GoGrandLake.com
Please remember these rescued animals during your holiday giving. Your donation will truly help save more lives.