OutThere Colorado Summer/Fall Guide 2024

•Interactive, educational, and fun exhibits

•See the Theiophytalia kerri dinosaur - discovered only in the Garden

• Explore the Park’s converging ecosystems

•Mountain Majesties, a virtual tour of Colorado’s highest peaks

• Wide-angle, time-lapse video of the Garden through the seasons

• Giant 3D interactive Topographic map

A show millions of years in the making In the Geo-Trekker Theater

• Journey through time and space to learn about the Garden of the Gods

•A fun, exciting, entertaining and educational 12 minute HD movie adventure

•$6 for adults, $4 for children ages 5-12

• FREE Maps, Daily Nature Walks, Adventure Programs, Hiking, Summer Segway, Jeep and 1909 Trolley Tours, Guided Rock Climbing, Bike Rentals and Guided eBike Tours

•Bean Sprouts® Café - Dine indoor or outdoor with a world famous view

• Gateway Café — Dine indoor or outdoor with a world famous view

•Award Winning Gift Shop Specializing in Colorado-made items

•Award Winning Gift Shop Specializing in Colorado-made items

THIS IS RANGELY

WAY OUTSIDE OF ORDINARY

LIVING IN RANGELY

Rangely provides residents a small town type of atmosphere ideal for those looking to escape the hustle-and-bustle of city life. Low cost of housing, great schools, parks, dining, local events, shopping –Rangely has it all.

OUTDOOR

ADVENTURES ABOUND!

Located in the northwest corner of the state, Rangely has immediate access to world class outdoor recreation including amazing OHV Trails, hiking, fishing, rock climbing, mountain biking and so much more!

DINING, SHOPPING & ENTERTAINMENT

Rangely offers a variety of shops, restaurants and entertainment venues for visitors to explore.

Discover Rangely

INSIDE

10 26 30 50 58 waterslide alpine lakes waterfalls fall hikes

floating

Summer is all about adventure in Colorado. If you need information — or inspiration — to make exploring the state easier in the coming months, you will find it and so much more on the OutThere Colorado website. From outdoor recreation news and bucket list ideas to timely details on incoming weather, this is your one-stop shop online. Whether you’re looking to make a splash in the state’s bodies of water, find a trail or learn more about which mountain towns to include on the next road trip, OutThere Colorado has you covered.

Visit OutThereColorado.com today for content to fuel your summer experience. Don’t forget to follow OutThere Colorado on your favorite social media platforms.

– SPENCER McKEE

OTC STAFF

Director of Content/Operations

SPENCER McKEE

Digital Content Creator

PIPER RUSSELL

Digital Content Specialist

SAM SCHOENECKER

Magazine Designers

AMBER BORATA

NICHOLE MONTANEZ

Magazine Editor

NATHAN VAN DYNE

Magazine Reporters

SETH BOSTER

DALIAH SINGER

Magazine Photographer

CHRISTIAN MURDOCK

Cover Photo

GRAND LAKE, CHANCEY BUSH

CONTACT

info@outtherecolorado.com

@outtherecolorado

@outthereco

Getty Images

By Seth Boster

Wet ‘n’ wild

Lakes, springs, rivers, cascades help define summer in Colorado

In Colorado, it can often feel like you’re not in Colorado. For example, on the hot and dry Western Slope you might find yourself at Rifle Falls. Suddenly you are immersed in a tropical scene, refreshed by the cool spray of a three-pronged waterfall gushing from a limestone cliff to a verdant floor. Is this really Colorado, you might ask. Or is this Hawaii?

Dougal Brownlie

And who knew this semi-desert state could be home to an expanse such as Blue Mesa Reservoir? It’s Colorado’s largest body of water, stretching more than 20 miles.

“It’s such a big lake, but really one of the things that’s special about it is it’s a little bit of a hidden gem,” Eric Loken once explained to us.

Having worked around the lake for much of his life with his marina-owning family, he talked of hidden coves and fishing holes all around — surprising spots for solitude and perhaps a record-breaking fish, as Blue Mesa is known to yield.

Speaking of surprises, Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve is known for one — as if the landscape isn’t surprising enough, fit for Hollywood’s latest sci-fi hit. From the surrounding mountain runoff, Medano Creek emerges at the base of the field, forming a wavy, beachy scene in early summer.

“We just came for the dunes,” said an unsuspecting visitor we met a few years ago. “We didn’t know there was a river to cross!”

That’s Colorado for you. Full of surprises.

Water might be the greatest surprise — the lakes, streams, springs and cascades that greet us on our journeys.

What better theme for this magazine celebrating summer? And where, oh where, to begin?

Perhaps at the headwaters.

Colorado’s mountains protect the start of several rivers as they make their critical course through the Southwest. That includes the region’s most major, the Colorado River, which begins high in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The state’s largest protected wilderness area — sprawling the size of Connecticut — western Colorado’s Weminuche Wilderness guards the remote headwaters of the Rio Grande, San Juan and Animas rivers, among others of smaller sizes but no smaller importance.

An entire ecosystem depends on river health, not to mention Colorado’s vast, colorful array of trout sought by anglers near and far. They swim in more than 300 miles of Gold Medal-rated streams around the state. But it’s far from just fly-fishing to our benefit.

The rivers represent our lifeblood. They feed our drinking sources. They power the grid.

Which reminds us of another Colorado surprise: This state is significant to the history of hydropower. Look to the Ames Hydroelectric Plant, built in 1890 outside Telluride.

“You could say it’s the proof of concept that allowed the country to be electrified,” said Kiernan Lannon, executive director of Telluride Historical Museum.

Ames Hydroelectric Plant is considered the first to produce and transmit alternating current power over a distance for commercial purposes. It apparently inspired Smuggler-Union Hydroelectric Plant

to power mines back in Telluride. That’s the house you see atop Colorado’s tallest waterfall: Bridal Veil Falls. You could say that plant went from utility to tourism-driving curiosity. The clifftop house is a rustic, idyllic complement to the picture-perfect waterfall. The National Register of Historic Places deems it “one of the most spectacular vistas in Colorado.”

When it comes to spectacular, Bridal Veil Falls has competition. Inevitably, the competition involves more water.

The aforementioned Rifle Falls is on the bucket list with Hanging Lake, one more super popular, tropic-seeming site. Another widely circulated postcard image out of Aspen would not be complete without water: Maroon Lake reflecting those pyramid-like peaks.

Maroon Bells and Hanging Lake are among several Colorado destinations in recent years to add reservations and shuttles to manage crowds. The management is new, but demand has long existed for the state’s cherished waters.

Rob White managed Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area for two decades before his 2020 retirement. He relayed the stories he heard about the years before Colorado Parks and Wildlife’s Arkansas River rafting management: “There would be fist fights between the outfitters over who was gonna launch and who was gonna park.”

We’ve had to learn how to share on the Arkansas, considered America’s most whitewater-rafted river. Unforgettable memories are made from Browns Canyon to the

Royal Gorge.

Colorado is also home to one of the nation’s most coveted rafting permits. The chance to venture down Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument has been complicated by supply and demand over the years. Demand has increased, land managers say, while drought has dwindled supply.

Just as drought threatens our supplies for drinking water and power, it threatens the lakes and rivers also providing our active ways of life.

“It’s a reckoning right now,” we heard from an avid fisherman, Scott Willoughby. This was in the summer of 2022, a time of fishing closures across low, hot waters that strained habitat.

In March, a Senate committee hearing was dedicated to climate change’s threat to outdoor recreation. The call to action was put in economic perspective as committee members stressed increased fire danger, lower water levels and migration patterns threatened a nationwide industry reportedly generating $1.1 trillion annually.

In Colorado, outdoor recreation is said to generate $13.9 billion each year and account for 130,000 jobs. The state’s rafting industry alone has reported its annual economic impact as high as $231 million.

That figure changes year to year. It changes with factors including flows and fires.

Nik White has reflected on the changes over his life of kayaking around the state. He’s the access and conservation director for advocacy group Colorado Whitewater.

“I’d say the highs aren’t there anymore, or they’re much shorter lived than they used to be,” he said.

Christian Murdock

And so we take advantage of generous years of snowmelt. Years such as 2023.

Runoff greatly boosted reservoirs in the state’s southwest, helping to explain a striking year-to-year increase in visitation. For example, Ridgway State Park reported 614,358 visitors, up 48% from 2022.

Another lake is centerpiece of Colorado’s most visited state park. Boaters, anglers, campers and more account for about 3 million visits to Lake Pueblo every year. We were surprised by someone we met there once: A young, local woman training to stay atop the country’s competitive wake surfer rankings.

Wake surfing in Colorado. You heard that right.

Just like you heard this right: The state has been ranked in the top three for producing the nation’s most certified scuba divers.

That was no surprise to a mother we once met at Aurora Reservoir, where her kids were getting certified for a Caribbean vacation. Lindsay Beebe stated the obvious behind the

scuba diving trend: “People in Colorado are adventurous.”

This helps to explain why they rack up many miles and much vertical gain to reach lakes spotting the high country.

One might say Colorado’s 54 14,000-foot mountains are the ultimate prizes, while others know many more treks would be required to see all of the state’s high-alpine lakes. They are scenes that take the breath away as much as any great summit.

Again, the state’s waters are there to soothe us after those hard hikes.

If we’re in the mountains, chances are there’s a hot spring not far away. After all, the ancient uplift that formed the mountains is central to the underground process that renders the steaming, mineral-rich springs.

Of course Colorado is home to what’s considered the world’s deepest hot spring (Mother Spring in Pagosa Springs). Of course Colorado is home to what’s considered the biggest hot spring-fed pool (Grand Pool in Glenwood Springs).

That’s Colorado for you. Full of surprises.

a family-friendly journey through

By Seth Boster

While we earn our Colorado stripes by roaring through whitewater rapids, there’s nothing wrong with taking the slow lane once in a while. And nothing says summer like a relaxing float.

A word of caution, though, before embarking: Be prepared, as floating can all too often turn to rollicking. Take time to double-check the route, the weather and water levels that can sometimes be too low or too high for safe passage. Check in with local outfitters and authorities before heading to these tubing spots.

Boulder Creek, Boulder: Nothing speaks to the tradition here like the annual Tube to Work Day. The city maintains a webpage of information, including the suggested put-in point at Eben G. Fine Park. For a short run, take out at the high school. The webpage mentions a longer trip to 55th Street — “just don’t expect a super-gentle float.”

Tubing on a Colorado river can offer memories that match whitewater fun

Clear Creek, Golden: If you’ve delighted in watching boaters make their way through downtown, maybe it’s finally time to join the action. Be advised Clear Creek Whitewater Park was designed with Class II/III kayakers in mind; it’s “not a lazy river float,” Golden River Sports emphasizes. The outfitter recommends walking the creek’s adjacent path to decide on a suitable section.

South Platte River, Littleton: Here’s another fine way to beat the heat in Denver. Fine usually applies to the water — typically gentle for the whole family. First-timers might want to check in with Adventure West. The company will shuttle you upstream for a float through Carsen Nature Center that lasts one to three hours, depending on flows.

Colorado River, Palisade: An idyllic float might end with a glass of wine or a juicy peach. Vineyards and orchards are seen amid the mesas and sandstone cliffs of western Colorado. Float Palisade guides bill it “the Grand Valley’s most serene section of the Colorado River.” A popular route that might last two hours: Riverbend Park to Corn Lake.

San Juan River, Pagosa Springs: A town webpage details two miles of tubing from River Center to Yamaguchi Park. In the right conditions — considered to be levels under 400 cubic feet per second — you’ll enjoy some wave features, shops and restaurants of downtown, and views of the San Juan Mountains. And you might spy a riverside hot spring to visit later.

Yampa River, Steamboat Springs: For beginners, it might be a good move to rent a tube from Backdoor Sports, where you can drop in and float about two miles to the shuttle at James Brown Soul Center of the Universe Bridge. For a longer trip, tubers can park at Stockbridge Transit Center and ride a shuttle to the put-in at Fetcher Pond.

Timothy Hurst

By Seth Boster

CREEDE • It’s a place somewhere between Colorado’s majestic San Juan Mountains and magical San Luis Valley. A place overlooked by rugged, granite walls that tell tall tales of the past. A place that inspired the so-called “Poet Laureate of the Rockies,” Cy Warman, and many artists today moved by the scenic beauty more than a century later.

“The LAST Great Place,” reads the welcome sign into Creede. What makes the town that? We once went around asking the question.

“The seclusion, the quietness,” answered one local.

You get that in the town that has in recent years counted fewer than 300 year-round residents. You get the feel of the same town that Nicholas Creede saw rise in the 1890s; he’s the one credited for sparking the silver boom here.

Creede indeed feels trapped in time. But it’s not always so quiet.

Just as the town bustled during the mining rush, it does so again when summer rolls around. However secluded, the word is out on “The LAST Great Place.”

See the sights

CREEDE

Bachelor Loop is a rugged, 17-mile drive through the canyon that put Creede on the map. The drive is a photographer’s dream, showcasing old mining shafts and structures amid natural splendor.

Another must-do drive: Take the Silver Thread Scenic & Historic Byway (Colorado 149) about 25 miles west of town to North Clear Creek Falls. The massive cascade is seen gushing through cliffs from an overlook that makes for a good picnic spot.

And then there’s the drive that is much more complicated and doubly rewarding. The U.S. Forest Service calls the 14mile road to Wheeler Geologic Area “grueling.” It requires the right rig and four-wheeling know-how.

Following East Bellows Trail, one also can backpack about seven miles into the otherworldly domain of colorful rock spires. Camping is allowed just outside the geologic area.

Colorado town to love in summer:

CREEDE

Big-city frills

‘The

LAST Great Place’

It’s been called a “theater oasis” — “Broadway in the Rockies.” That’s Creede Repertory Theatre, where big-city actors come to put on plays throughout the summer.

You might find other semblances of the big city at Arp’s, serving gourmet eats inside historic Creede Hotel. The food scene otherwise skips fancy, opting instead for familiar favorites and atmosphere: tacos at Kip’s Grill, barbecue at Tommyknocker Tavern, and hot dogs at the nostalgic Best Little Dog House.

A hardware store doesn’t sound like a proper first stop for shoppers, but that should be the case with Tomkins Hardware and Lumber, a time capsule since 1892. Amid several gift shops and galleries, Creede Olive Oil Co. stands out with a peculiar promise: “everything to make a delicious, exotic meal.” Also standing out is Wander Off Broadway, stocking apparel and local goods across the street from the theater.

Go back in time

In 1891, a down-on-his-luck miner named Theodore Renninger was said to be done with Creede. He would be digging one last time before catching a train out of town, goes the story chronicling one last, fateful swing of his hammer.

Last Chance Mine is now home to a tour where guests are led deep underground to the amethyst vein Renninger struck. Over 40 minutes, a guide speaks on the geology and stories bringing the past back to life.

It’s not the only tour of its kind around. Equipment and exhibits can be viewed along the tunnels defining Creede Underground Mining Museum.

MAY 23-27: CKS PADDLEFEST: Whitewater clinics, competitions and concerts make this a special way to kick off summer along the Arkansas River; Buena Vista, cksriversupply.com

MAY 24-26: COMEDY FESTIVAL: Three days of comedy with headliners from HBO, CBS and NBC such as Mary Mack, Monroe Martin and Jenny Zigrino; Vail, vailcomedyfestival.com

MAY 24-26: BLUES, BREWS & BBQ: Enjoy barbecue demos and competitions, food and beer, and music by Ghost Town Blues, Jax Hollow and more; Beaver Creek, beavercreek.com

MAY 24-27: BOULDER CREEK FESTIVAL: Shop at the artisan market while enjoying live music, delicious food and beer on the banks of Boulder Creek; Boulder, bouldercreekfest.com

MAY 24-27: GRAND OLD WEST DAYS: A weekend full of fun for the entire family with a carnival, cowboy action shoot, food vendors and craft booths; Craig, grandoldwestdays.com

MAY 25-27: TERRITORY DAYS: This Memorial Day weekend tradition draws large crowds with hundred of vendors, food and live music; Old Colorado City, shopoldcoloradocity.com

MAY 25-27: TASTE OF CREEDE: Back for its 36th year, this festival of fine arts and dining includes demonstrations, kids’ activities and cook-offs; Creede, creede.com/taste-of-creede

MAY 30-JUNE 1: QUILT, CRAFT & SEWING FESTIVAL: It’s three days revolving around sewing, quilting, needle-art and craft supply exhibits; Castle Rock, quiltcraftsew.com/castle-rock

MAY 31-JUNE 1: MIKE THE HEADLESS CHICKEN FESTIVAL: Quintessential Colorado event dedicated to an amazing story of one chicken’s will to live; Fruita, miketheheadlesschicken.org

MAY 31-JUNE 2: SUMMERFEST ON THE RIO: Join entertainers, craftspeople, artists and vendors for a weekend of exciting activities for all ages; Alamosa, summerfestontherio.org

JUNE 1: COLORADO WINE FESTIVAL: Celebrate 30-plus wineries with samples made throughout the state along with live music and food trucks; Manitou Springs, manitousprings.org

JUNE 1: WHISKEY THROWDOWN & DOUGHNUT SHOWDOWN: A pairing unlike anything your palate has ever experienced at this fun, sugar-focused event; Denver, whiskeydoughnuts.com

JUNE 1-2: DENVER CHALK ART FESTIVAL: It’s arguably Colorado’s most colorful event with more than 150 artists creating masterpieces in the Mile High City; Denver, denverchalk.art

JUNE 1-2: OUTSIDE FESTIVAL: The Great Outdoors takes center stage with concerts, films and speakers including Shaun White and Diana Nyad; Denver, festival.outsideonline.com

JUNE 1-2: INDIAN MARKET AND INTERTRIBAL POWWOW: It’s an annual celebration of American Indian art, culture, dance and more at The Fort; Morrison, tesoroculturalcenter.org

JUNE 1-2: ANIMAS RIVER DAYS: Activities include stand-up paddleboarding, river surfing, freestyle kayaking, raft/kayak slalom and a river parade; Durango, animasriverdays.com

JUNE 2-21: COLORADO COLLEGE SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL: Celebrating 40 years of chamber and orchestra music; Colorado Springs, coloradocollege.edu/other/summermusicfestival

JUNE 6-9: GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES: It’s all about extreme summer sports at the nation’s most celebrated festival of adventure sports with art and music; Vail, mountaingames.com

JUNE 7-8: STAR FEST: Take in the incredible night sky with a weekend of celestial excitement tailored to experienced astronomers and first-time stargazers; Lake City, lakecity.com

JUNE 7-14: LIT FEST: It’s an appreciation of the literary arts with workshops, readings, visiting authors, panels and parties; Denver, lighthousewriters.org/content/lit-fest-2024

JUNE 8-AUG. 11: COLORADO SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL: For more than 60 years, audiences have been thrilled at the nation’s second oldest festival of its kind; Boulder, cupresents.org

JUNE 13-16: FIBARK: First in Boating on the Arkansas is America’s oldest whitewater festival, drawing as many as 30,000 visitors to the quaint mountain town; Salida, fibark.com

JUNE 14-16: SCANDINAVIAN MIDSUMMER FESTIVAL: Be inspired by the cultural heritage of Scandinavia with dozens of artisans and performers; Golden, scandinavianmidsummer.com

JUNE 15-AUG. 4: COLORADO RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL: Go back in time with a journey (weekends only) through a medieval city filled with mystique; Larkspur, coloradorenaissance.com

JUNE 20-22: WHITTLE THE WOOD RENDEZVOUS: Billed as Colorado’s premier chainsaw carving competition, watch as artists turn stumps into masterpieces; Craig, whittlethewood.com

JUNE 20-23: JAZZ ASPEN SNOWMASS EXPERIENCE: Twelve venues feature 40-plus shows from artists including Big Bad Voodoo Daddy and Alabama; Aspen, jazzaspensnowmass.org

JUNE 20-24: COUNTRY JAM MUSIC FESTIVAL: Lineup includes The Bellamy Brothers, Jelly Roll, Parker McCollum, Koe Wetzel, Lee Brice and more; Grand Junction, countryjam.com

JUNE 20-AUG. 1: BRAVO! VAIL MUSIC FESTIVAL: Celebrating more than 30 years with some of the greatest orchestras, renowned musicians and acclaimed soloists; Vail, bravovail.org

JUNE 21-23: STRAWBERRY DAYS FESTIVAL: A tradition for 127 years with a parade, live music, ice cream and, of course, sweet strawberries; Glenwood Springs, strawberrydays.com

JUNE 22-23: BACON AND BOURBON FESTIVAL: Live high on the hog with thousands of pounds of bacon, bacon-inspired cuisine and bourbon samples; Keystone, keystonefestivals.com

JUNE 27-30: TELLURIDE YOGA FESTIVAL: Kick back and relax with four days of deep connection, inspiration, meditation and music in a cool setting; Telluride, tellurideyogafestival.com

JUNE 28-30: DONKEY DERBY DAYS: An event to honor the burros’ key role in the town’s mining history with music, food and donkey races; Cripple Creek, cripplecreekdonkeys.com

JUNE 29-AUG. 4: CENTRAL CITY OPERA FESTIVAL: Discover the tapestry of love, drama and community with musical adaptations of timeless stories; Central City, centralcityopera.org

JULY 1-14: GREEN BOX ARTS FESTIVAL: A cornucopia of arts performances, exhibitions, classes, camps, conversations and parties since 2009; Green Mountain Falls, greenboxarts.org

JULY 5-7: CHERRY CREEK ARTS FESTIVAL: An opportunity to find inspiration, connect with others through art, expand your worldview, and eat and drink; Denver, cherryarts.org

JULY 11-14: HIGH MOUNTAIN HAY FEVER BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL: A full roster of national and regional bluegrass performers in a scenic setting; Westcliffe, highmountainhayfever.org

JULY 11-AUG. 4: MUSIC IN THE MOUNTAINS: This summer marks 38 years of incredible fun, shared experiences and live, world-class music; Durango, musicinthemountains.com

JULY 12-21: WILDFLOWER FESTIVAL: Immerse yourself in a symphony of wildflowers with more than 150 wildflower-based programs; Crested Butte, crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com

JULY 17-20: CHAINSAWS & CHUCKWAGONS: Watch as chainsaw artists turn giant logs into beautiful works of art and enjoy vendors, music and food trucks; Frederick, frederickco.gov

JULY 19-21: GOLD RUSH DAYS: Celebrate 130 years of mining heritage with live music, food, beer, gold panning, a parade, mining games and more; Victor, victorcolorado.com

JULY 26-27: ROYAL GORGE WHITEWATER FESTIVAL: Whitewater competitions and land-based recreation events along the Arkansas; Cañon City, royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com

JULY 26-28: BURRO DAYS: Celebrate the role of the burro in mining days of old with burro, llama, dog and outhouse races, a parade, vendors and live music, Fairplay; fairplayco.us

JULY 26-AUG. 5: VAIL DANCE FESTIVAL: Event showcases ballet, modern dance and other genres with dance luminaries from across the U.S. and around the world; Vail, vaildance.org

JULY 27-28: COLORADO DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL: The Mile High City plays host to the largest festival of its kind in the U.S. with boat races, vendors and more; Denver, cdbf.org

JULY 27-28: VEGFEST COLORADO: Event focuses on plant-based living, respect for the planet and sustainability with several speakers, vendors and live music; Denver, vegfestco.com

AUG. 2-4: LEADVILLE BOOM DAYS: A celebration of the Old West with gunslingers, burro races and a street fair with 100-plus food and craft booths; Leadville, leadvilleboomdays.org

AUG. 14-18: MUSHROOM FESTIVAL: Since 1981, mushroom enthusiasts have gathered to celebrate all things fungi with dinners, workshops and more; Telluride, tellurideinstitute.org

AUG. 16-17: PALISADE PEACH FESTIVAL: For more than a century now, this juicy piece of produce has been showcased at a festival on the Western Slope; Palisade, palisadecoc.com

AUG. 16-18: BUFFALO DAYS: One of Grand Lake’s signature events with live music, cornhole, carnival games, a lakefront movie and a parade; Grand Lake, gograndlake.com

AUG. 17-18: PIKES PEAK REGIONAL AIR SHOW: Come watch Navy Blue Angels, an F-22 Raptor, the EA-18G Growler Airshow Team and much more; Colorado Springs, pprairshow.org

50 Summer Festivals

The lake that changed everything

By Daliah Singer

Dillon Reservoir evolves into summer hot spot despite origins that never were intended for fun

Jerilee Bennett

Craig Simson has been sailing on Dillon Reservoir since, as he puts it, “before I had a choice.” A native of Colorado, Simson comes from a sailing family and has had a boat at the marina for nearly three decades.

“This reservoir has always been a place that has been very meaningful to me,” he said. “It’s an amazing place of solace where people can come and look at one of the best views in Colorado.”

That was never the engineers’ intention. Rather, Dillon Valley was seen as a solution to Denver’s water problem. Front Range officials started eyeing the area as early as 1900 as the South Platte River could no longer serve Denver’s population and all the water rights claims on its flows.

the one-room schoolhouse had to be upgraded into a two-story building to accommodate the growing population.

Then the reservoir upended residents’ lives.

The Harold D. Roberts Tunnel, which shuttles water under the Continental Divide and is the longest of its kind in the world, broke ground in 1956. The Dillon Reservoir was completed in 1963. (Breckenridge Ski Resort opened in the interim, in December 1961.)

‘This reservoir has always been a place that has been very meaningful to me.’

– CRAIG SIMSON

“It (Dillon Reservoir) came out of drought and need because the East Slope water supplies were not enough to meet the needs of the Front Range,” said Nathan Elder, water supply manager for Denver Water, which owns the reservoir.

“Dillon Valley did not have the minerals or the gold in Breck, the silver in Montezuma or mixed metals in Frisco. But it was centrally located at the convergence of the Snake River, Blue River and Tenmile Creek,” explained Sally Queen, Summit Historical Society’s board president.

In the early 20th century, Dillon was where stores could be found and where families settled. By 1910,

The site’s origin story quickly became part of state lore: the entire town of Dillon, including the cemetery, had to be moved in order to make room for the dam responsible for sending the water toward the Roberts Tunnel. (So, no, there are no buildings drowned beneath the lake. Anything that wasn’t moved was burned.)

Though many residents were irate, it wasn’t a new reality for the hamlet. Dillon had moved locations three

Chancey Bush

times before as railway lines shifted.

“People were still angry until about 2010 — the old-timers. They kept talking about the new town of Dillon,” Queen said. “The lake changed everything.”

Today, that 257,304-acre-foot lake is Denver Water’s largest reservoir. It serves as a supplemental supply for the utility’s 1.5 million customers and holds about 38% of its total storage water.

The reservoir — situated at 9,017 feet — has grown into a hot spot for outdoor enthusiasts, hosting one of the state’s largest sailing communities as well as boaters, standup paddleboarders, anglers, kayakers and others seeking either adventure or relaxation. Miles of paved hiking and biking trails, campgrounds and, in the winter, a cross-country trail system are all part of the recreation scene too.

pandemic, similar to many outdoor locales.

According to the Dillon Reservoir Recreation Committee, an interagency group that manages the lake and surrounding properties, revenues have been growing by 5% to 7% each year. That translates to a $6.5 million economic impact on Summit County annually, Waters said. Those numbers continue to evolve alongside the reservoir.

Dillon Amphitheater, which sits alongside the lake’s northern curve, was upgraded in 2018. The 2024 calendar is full of popular acts such as Maren Morris, Shakey Graves and Trampled by Turtles, and the shows regularly sell out. (There’s also a lineup of free performances throughout the summer.)

“It can be a pretty complicated reservoir to operate, and that probably wasn’t envisioned when it was built,” Elder said.

A cooperative agreement signed in 2013 sets a goal for Denver Water to maintain a specific elevation for the reservoir, one that allows the marinas to be fully operational from mid-June through Labor Day while also protecting the surrounding area and the water-use needs to the east.

The utility also works with rafting outfitters to try and maintain enjoyable river flows throughout the season and with anglers to manage water temperatures for recreation and for the health of the fisheries.

“Lake Dillon is probably one of the best gems that we have here in Summit County,” Nina Waters, a county commissioner, said. “It’s a really valuable, vital income resource.”

That only grew more valuable as use swelled during the

Currently, there is only a single restaurant serving all of the reservoir’s visitors: Pug Ryan’s Lakeside Tiki Bar. That could change in the coming years. “Both Dillon and Frisco are looking at potentially adding restaurants and other amenities to the lake as the interest increases,” Waters said.

Simson, who is now the director of the Dillon Marina, has had a front row seat to an “exponential” rise in popularity of water sports and use of the lake in recent years. But he says that growth hasn’t really changed the experience of being on the water. Sailors are still challenged by afternoon squalls and the surrounding topography. And the nearly 27mile shoreline provides ample space for everyone to have a private experience, even on the busiest days.

“The opportunity to have water of this size at this elevation I think is really rare,” Simson said. “It’s 3,000 acres of water sitting between the Continental Divide and the Tenmile and Gore ranges. That really doesn’t change.”

Jerilee Bennett

By Seth Boster

AURORA RESERVOIR

Michelle Courington lived around the Cayman Islands and Costa Rica before moving to a place seemingly unfit for her scuba diving passion.

She moved to Colorado’s Front Range, where in 1996 she opened One World Dive & Travel, a business for certifying, outfitting and guiding scuba divers to far-flung waters across the globe.

Around Denver, Courington’s semi-desert surroundings were far from discouraging.

“My whole family was like, ‘What, you’re doing a dive shop in land-locked Colorado?’” Courington recalled. “And I was like, ‘(Heck) yeah, it’s one of the best markets in the country.’”

No ocean, no problem.

Professional Association of Diving Instructors, the certifying agency tied to Courington’s shop and several others in Colorado, has considered this a top-three state for most certified divers per capita. The other two benefit from coasts: Florida and California.

Colorado’s scuba status has been unsurprising to Troy Juth. He started Underwater Connection in the 1980s in Colorado Springs. Juth has maintained the shop as one of the nation’s top producers for certifying divers. They go from classroom learning to pool instruction to dives in lakes that prepare them for the exotic excursions of their honeymoons or family vacations.

Coloradans want to scuba dive — just like Texans and Floridians want to ski, Juth said.

We want what we don’t have. And, indeed, we Coloradans are go-getters.

“Active and outdoorsy,” Courington said. “And the only thing you really can’t do in Colorado is anything to do with the ocean. So if you’re gonna leave Colorado, most people seek the ocean.”

Most people don’t seek this state’s waters for scuba diving. Around Denver, instructors popularly lead days at Chatfield Reservoir and Aurora Reservoir, where a small airplane has been submerged to be a fun find. Others learn and train at Horsetooth Reservoir and Carter Lake in Larimer County.

These are cold, murky waters — not the warm, clear, blue waters appealing to divers. Coloradans will drive for a couple of rare exceptions, however small: New Mexico’s aptly named Blue Hole and Utah’s geothermal Homestead Crater, which stays balmy year-round.

And then there are the occasional “scuba packers.”

“Some people will go to higher-altitude mountain lakes,” Courington said. “Some of those high-altitude lakes have really good visibility. But there’s not a ton to see.”

There are trout and rocks. There’s not the colorful coral and vast array of marine life that thrill divers. To be surrounded by that life and beauty — that’s the ultimate, said Kim Canatsey, a longtime diving instructor.

“You just get down there and you’re with nature,” she said, “and I think that’s what Coloradans like, being with nature.”

Christian Murdock

Slow down the hustle and bustle. Leave the city rush behind—swap for wild adventure in Cheyenne. Sit back by the reservoirs as the rainbow trout and kokanee salmon splash. Hike ’til you find quartz-brilliant paradise. Enter the land where legendary cowboys found invigoration, calling a new age of adventure.

There’s nothing quite like opening the flap of your tent to the view of a lake, watching the rising sun’s warm glow dance across the water that reflects Colorado’s mountain majesty. Yes, in setting a course for a camping trip this summer, we’re thinking about lakes. We’re thinking about these seven scenes of splendor.

By Seth Boster

LAKEFRONT PROPERTIES Consider camping at these cool spots

HIAWATHA LAKE

Chicago Lakes: The proximity to Interstate 70 and Denver means you’re likely to find plenty of day-trippers along the trail to this pair of lakes tucked in the wilderness. From Echo Lake trailhead beside the road up Mount Blue Sky, plenty might venture in and out, but it’s well worth staying the night. The best camping is near lower Chicago Lake. The upper lake is above treeline and exposed. Remember Forest Service rules about camping at least 100 feet from water and trails.

Grand Mesa: For its claim as the world’s largest flattop mountain, it’s surprising how underappreciated Grand Mesa can seem along the paved, scenic byway touring it between Cedaredge and I-70. Even more surprising: Grand Mesa is home to hundreds of lakes. Island Lake, Little Bear, Ward Lake, Crag Crest and Jumbo campgrounds are some to consider, all close to shores. You also can rent cabins from outfitters, including Grand Mesa Lodge and Thunder Mountain Lodge.

Red Feather Lakes: You don’t hear much talk about Red Feather Lakes among Denver and Colorado Springs folks. But northern Coloradans have long flocked to the quaint hamlet situated amid picturesque fishing holes such as Hiawatha Lake. Dowdy Lake, Bellaire Lake and West Lake are just a few of the popular campgrounds. For a little more family comfort and spoils, check out Alpine Lodge at Red Feather Lakes and Beaver Meadows Resort Ranch.

Trappers Lake: This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, which protected places “where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Those words are said to be inspired by Arthur Carhart’s reflections on a place in Colorado: Trappers Lake. It’s as good a year

as any to visit the lake deep in Flat Tops Wilderness. You will want to consult directions outlined by a Forest Service webpage, which details five campgrounds nearby. Another option: Trappers Lake Lodge.

Trinidad Lake: The old mining town on Colorado’s southern border is steadily marketing itself as a recreation hub with the ongoing development of its iconic backdrop, Fishers Peak. A trail to the summit is finally open (upper part closed for raptor nesting March 15 through July 31). The state park on the other side of Interstate 25 offers a perfect base camp. Don’t delay on camping reservations; while not as busy as Lake Pueblo up the highway, Trinidad Lake is beloved by boaters and anglers.

Twin Lakes Recreation Area: This Lake County site is a Colorado favorite for good reason. For its array of nearby activities on foot, bike, boat and ATV. And for the smorgasbord of scenery featuring some of the state’s tallest peaks between Buena Vista and Leadville. The lofty reputation means campgrounds fill fast, especially Lakeview and White Star campgrounds, which require reservations. Others are first-come, first-served.

Willow Lake: Perched near 11,500 feet in Rio Grande National Forest, many pass this waterfall-fed lake en route to the 14,000-foot summits of Challenger Point and Kit Carson Peak. Others stay put, very content amid the woods and melody of that cascade. The trailhead is reached off a dirt road rising from the funky town of Crestone. Be prepared for a steep hike covering about five miles — with views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains and San Luis Valley all the way.

Soakit all in

Four hot springs cater to all ages

The parents want to relax at Colorado’s hot springs while the kids would rather frolic. How to achieve the ideal balance during a family vacation? Look to these destinations:

Glenwood Hot Springs Resort: We all know the big pool in the center — said to be the world’s biggest fed by geothermal waters. That kind of size means the kids can play all they want while the adults might be able to find a quiet place. Coming this summer: five smaller pools designed with adults in mind. The additions follow the 2019 opening of Sopris Splash Zone. That’s the play area to go with Shoshone Chutes, a thrilling tube ride.

Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort: Families take their pick between the so-called soaking pool, a quieter spot right outside the historic bathhouse, and the exercise pool, where kids are known to play Marco Polo and float on a noodle. If it’s not reserved, adults opt for the infinity pool, which is adjacent to a 400-foot waterslide. Equally beloved is the more natural side of the complex: the dips built by rocks along the river.

By Seth Boster

Old Town Hot Springs: In Steamboat Springs, Strawberry Park Hot Springs gets all the buzz for the unforgettable experience it affords in a rustic setting. Old Town, however, is the more accessible, family-friendly spot right off the highway. Nothing says “family-friendly” like the pair of waterslides spanning 230 feet. They plunge into the heated pools outside the facility that serves as Steamboat’s community fitness center.

Ouray Hot Springs Pool: The overlook pool is named for the view it provides of the scenery defining “the Switzerland of America.” The pool is for guests 18 and older, meant to be the serene spot amid all the fun here. The activity pool includes a climbing wall, where kids fall back in the water. There’s also a shallow pool, a large lap pool and a more intimate hot pool. And there are two waterslides, standing nearly three stories.

Science of the springs

By Seth Boster

VALLEY VIEW HOT SPRINGS

We soak in Colorado’s hot springs. We feel the sweet relief on body and mind. And we commonly deduce a miracle.

Rather, there is a scientific explanation.

It’s an explanation dealing with deep time and the deep, subterranean layers of the Earth, where water meets minerals we associate with healing qualities.

But we begin in the sky.

“Our hot springs all derive from meteoric water, rain or snow,” says Paul Morgan, a longtime geothermal specialist with Colorado Geological Survey.

That water travels down the mountains to seep through the ground and travel onward through porous rock. The water “percolates down deep, a mile or a couple of miles, where temperatures are hotter,” Morgan says. “Then it comes back up to the surface through natural pathways.”

The water rises along the tilting cracks and fissures of faults that simultaneously serve like a plumbing system and water heater. The faults recall millions of years of shifting, pressurizing

Mountainous topography contributes to the state’s thermal soaking waters

and uplifting that resulted in the Rocky Mountains.

It’s that ongoing process and topography to thank for Colorado’s hot springs. It’s the reason why this state and mountainous others produce thermal waters while flatter states do not. (Colorado Geological Survey maintains 93 springs and wells.)

“To get water down into the crust and back up again, you need something to drive it, and that driving force is gravity,” Morgan says.

You need, he adds, the “accommoda-

tion zones” of faults. “They either overlap each other or cause gaps,” he says. “It’s through those gaps where water comes up.”

Generally, the deeper that water traveled toward Earth’s scorching core, the hotter it will return.

Springs are thought to be hotter around the state’s southwest San Juan Mountains, the scene of powerful, volcanic activity some 20-30 million years ago.

That’s “young, geologically speaking,” Morgan notes. Volcanic heat is gone from the surface, “but deep down there is some heat left,” he says.

Then there’s the stench around Pagosa Springs, Glenwood Springs and Steamboat Springs. “You can smell sulfur, and that gives people the impression it’s coming out of the hot spring,” Morgan says.

It has to do with the hot water coming into contact with evaporates such as gypsum, calcium and sulfate. The gaseous breakdown is sulfur dioxide, “so you get that bad egg smell,” Morgan says.

By Seth Boster

FREE TO FROLIC

Much of our nostalgia lingers on sunny days at the pool, splashing, sliding and cannonballing before a sweet treat back with Mom. You might’ve grown up and put those places in the past. But those places still very much exist around Colorado’s biggest cities. And if you’ve got kids of your own now, it’s time to go make some new memories.

Elitch Gardens Theme & Water Park: You know the theme park, impossible to miss, with those rollercoasters and thrilling towers as central to Denver’s skyline as 16th Street. But do you know the water park? Your ticket to the theme park includes access to the wet-and-wild attractions. They include multiple open-air and enclosed slides dropping more than 60 feet.

Great Wolf Lodge: Colorado Springs families rejoiced with the 2017 opening of the city’s first indoor water park. Even better news: They don’t need an overnight reservation at the hotel to enjoy. Day passes are available for the fun zone consisting of a splashy, four-story “treehouse,” a wave pool, a tube ride and the Howlin’ Tornado — a swirling, six-story plunge.

Water World: This is the undisputed king of aquatic play in the state, a vast and varied expanse north of down-

town Denver calling to residents and tourists alike. Groups set up base in cabanas and bungalows and only attempt to experience all of the 50-plus attractions here. Those include plunges, “toilet bowls,” wave pools, tubing waterways and interactive rides.

Pirates Cove Water Park: Pirates Cove claims the tower atop its three slides is the highest point in Englewood. It might represent the park’s high importance to the Denver suburb. Local kids learn to swim here, the first of many more memories to come. They also slide, float the lazy river and eagerly await the dump from the 750-gallon bucket.

Gaylord Rockies Resort: Make it a staycation at the resort close to Denver International Airport. Or start the vacation early for a night or two before you fly out. The kids will keep busy with the pools, slides and lazy river making up

Arapahoe Springs Water Park, while the adults can kick back in a shaded, pool-side cabana, complete with bar service.

The Splash at Fossil Trace: This Golden complex promises “features and attractions for all ages, from 1-100.” The little ones might go for the sandbox, billed as the biggest in Jefferson County. Adults might prefer the eight-lane lap pool. Both kids and kids at heart will appreciate the two slides, the highest at 180 feet, and also the diving board.

Brighton Oasis Family Aquatic Park: It lives up to its name — a fun-filled oasis breaking the plains northeast of Denver. This is a gathering place for families, where the kids hopefully walk rather than run to the twisting, turning slides, splash pads and pools. There’s special times for grown-ups too: They come for 21-and-up nights of live music, food and booze.

Climb aboard the historic Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad which operates in the scenic landscapes of southern Colorado and northern New Mexico. Journey back in time experiencing the Old West as it was in 1880, as you venture over the highest mountain pass reached by rail, cross gorges and trestles, blast through tunnels, and chug across alpine meadows and high deserts. Depart from Antonito, Colorado or Chama, New Mexico for a ride of a lifetime!

Hyland Hills Parks & Recreation District

All aboard the most state-of-the-art cog railway in the world. While the entire experience of riding the railway has been enhanced, the journey itself and the iconic, breathtaking views as you ride to the summit of America’s Mountain remain the same. Visit cograilway.com to purchase your e-ticket today.

By Seth Boster

Aah, natural

Cool waterslide in Pueblo County is worth the search

PUEBLO COUNTY • It’s worth looking, I’d been told.

From a patron at a gas station in Colorado City, off Colorado 165 heading west toward the Wet Mountains. From a woman behind a counter of fudge inside a wooden lodge farther west, closer to the destination I’d heard about near Lake Isabel. Also in the lodge were a man and his young boy, who said I should try the raspberries I find on my way.

They were sweet all right. They clung to bushes along the unmarked trail I hiked through San Isabel National Forest; the trail that indeed took me to what I’d been told: a natural waterslide.

Over wide, smooth rock faces, a cold creek rushed, and there was a teenage couple riding the water, their arms raised like they were on a roller coaster. They rode the stream and dropped with a short waterfall into a pool.

“It’s one of those places,” Kayla Roberts said beside the creek in the forest, rock cliffs towering around her and her boyfriend. “If you can find it, then it’s worth it.”

You can find it, as I did, by parking in the lot nearest the dam stretching over Lake Isabel. There are no signs, and you won’t find a sign on your way. But at the back of the lot, find the pathways that mar the ground sloping into the forest. It’s a steep descent that flattens into a meadow of tall grass and aspen. The path heads to a creek and continues on the other side.

As you go — perhaps a mile — there will be a few more creek crossings and some awkward maneuvering over boulders. The trail stretches along the creek, which provides a soothing soundtrack. The flowers are yellow and pink, purple and white, and the butterflies dancing around them are just as varied.

SAN ISABEL

Jerilee Bennett

Cool off at these 10 state parks

Time for a refresh

By Daliah Singer

ELEVEN MILE STATE PARK

Take a dip in a cool lake. Work your core on a standup paddleboard. Or enjoy the breeze from a pontoon boat. There are endless options at Colorado’s state parks, many of which feature prominent lakes and waterways. Here are 10 of our favorite summer destinations when we’re looking to make a splash.

Chatfield State Park, Littleton:

The heart of this 3,895-acre park south of Denver is its namesake reservoir. Sailing, water skiing, fishing, paddleboarding — it’s all permissible. The full-service marina has pontoon boats for rent while Colorado WaterSports sets up people with canoes, kayaks and Corcls (round boats suited for kids). On the west side, a designated swimming area is open from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Forgot your picnic lunch? Swing by Seagull’s Restaurant.

Crawford State Park, Crawford: This state park is often overshadowed by its neighbor, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, but its smaller size doesn’t diminish the incredible scenery and outdoor recreation that awaits. Boating, water skiing, jet skiing and swimming are particularly popular on the 414-acre reservoir. Both warm- and cold-water fish are present, with anglers scooping up yellow perch, largemouth bass, channel catfish, crappie and German brown trout.

Eleven Mile State Park, Lake George: If you like to fish, look no further than this reservoir west of Colorado Springs. You can reel in trout, kokanee and pike from the shore or a boat. Non-anglers can windsurf, canoe or sail thanks to the area’s pleasant wind conditions. Or they can explore the park’s nearly five miles of trails. Birders will easily while away hours searching for rare species such as bald eagles and American peregrine falcons; waterfowl hunting is an option in fall.

CHATFIELD STATE PARK

Jerilee Bennett

Jackson Lake State Park, Orchard: An oasis in northeast Colorado, Jackson Lake’s shallow waters and sandy bottom make it an ideal swimmers’ beach. More adventurous water lovers can splash through its 1,910 acres on water skis, jet skis or motorboats. Rent gear such as paddleboards and lily pads — and pick up all-important snacks — at the Shoreline Marina. The park is a Certified Dark-Sky Place so check out the year-round campsites to take advantage of starry nights.

Lake Pueblo State Park, Pueblo: There are many reasons why Lake Pueblo is Colorado’s most visited state park. The 5,399-surface-acre reservoir — with 60 miles of shoreline — is served by two full-service marinas and is a prime spot for fishing, sailing and jet skiing. Rock Canyon Swim Beach offers a place to cool off. On land, mountain biking trails provide riders of all abilities with miles through prairie and piñon-juniper woodlands. Oh, did we mention the clear views of Pikes Peak?

Lathrop State Park, Walsenburg: Colorado’s first state park is a hidden gem to the south. There are two lakes from which to choose. Martin Lake’s warm

water (average summer temperature: 75 degrees) is ideal for swimmers (there’s even a lap lane), but skiers, windsurfers and sailboats also ply the waters. Horseshoe Lake is for wakeless fun, with kayaking, canoeing and fishing. The park’s 1,460 acres also encompass an archery range and the only golf course within a state park.

Navajo State Park, Arboles: Straddling Colorado and New Mexico, Navajo State Park — nicknamed “Colorado’s Lake Powell” — is a water lover’s paradise. The 35-mile-long namesake reservoir boasts 15,600 surface acres, meaning there’s plenty of room to cool off on a rented pontoon boat (check out Two Rivers Marina), enjoy a stand-up paddleboard or sail across state lines (just make sure you’re registered in both states). Anglers can reel in crappie, trout, northern pike and bass.

Ridgway State Park, Ridgway: This state park in southwest Colorado abides by the “location, location, location” mantra. Uncompahgre River runs right through the setting, offering rafting and kayaking opportunities. A reservoir sits in the shadow of the San Juan Mountains and is a hot spot for wa-

ter skiing, wakeboarding, windsurfing, swimming and more. The park features more than 14 miles of trails and more than 250 campsites. The adventure hub of Ouray is only 15 miles south.

Rifle Falls State Park, Rifle: Waterfalls are not the state’s predominant sightseeing draw, unless you’re visiting this state park 30 miles northwest of Glenwood Springs. Here, you can take a short, accessible walk to the base of a 70-foot triple waterfall. A pair of limestone caves that pockmark the walls beneath the cascade invite explorers and spelunkers. East Rifle Creek is swimming with trout. Take a hike on Bobcat Trail to Rifle Falls Fish Hatchery, one of the largest trout hatcheries.

Steamboat Lake State Park, Clark: If you can divert your eyes away from the stunning views of towering peaks and, in the fall, the surrounding yellow- and orange-speckled forests, there’s plenty else to occupy your attention at Steamboat Lake. A swim beach calls for those brave enough to take a chilly, high-alpine dip. It’s also possible to spot deer and elk from your perch on a motorboat, sailboat or other watercraft. The nearby, family-owned marina can handle any rental needs.

By Seth Boster

For the sturdy explorer in Colorado, the rarefied air of 14,000 feet might be the ultimate reward after a hard hike. Or it might be the refreshing, scenic shore of an alpine lake.

The waters appear like jewels on a map, sapphires tucked high in the mountains. And, indeed, you’ll have to earn these treasures. Here are some we’re seeking this summer.

Alpine

6 memorable hikes to high-altitude lakes

Blue Lakes

Nearest town: Ridgway

Round trip: ~8.5 miles, ~2,500 feet elevation gain

The chain of lakes living up to the name — well, turquoise might be more accurate — has gotten popular enough for land managers to consider crowd control. Permits have been floated for day hikers and overnight backpackers; the requirement could begin in 2025. It’s a wondrous trek through Mount Sneffels Wilderness, culminating in the top lake above 11,700 feet.

Lake Haiyaha

Nearest town: Estes Park

Round trip: ~4.2 miles, ~750 feet elevation gain

Often passed for other destinations in Rocky Mountain National Park, the lake has earned more attention in recent years after a rockslide dumped “glacial flour” into the water. That’s the sediment credited for a dramatic color change, a milky green. You’ll need a reservation to start from the national park’s busy Bear Lake trailhead. The good news: the hike shouldn’t take tons of time.

Island Lake

Nearest town: Silverton

Round trip: ~7.7 miles, ~2,700 feet elevation gain

This is another arduous, bucket list trek granting a series of lakes perched high in the San Juan Mountains. Island Lake is the last popularly reached from the Ice Lakes trailhead, by South Mineral Campground. After a steep ascent, upper Ice Lake is magnificent enough for many to stop. Many more continue less than a mile to the lake with a rock island at its center.

Lakes of the Clouds

Nearest town: Westcliffe

Round trip: ~10.5 miles, ~2,600 feet elevation gain

The lakes are but a few treasures in the treasure-filled Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The three are nestled amid pine and aspen, each within about a half-mile of the others. It’s trout that anglers seek, camping out a night or two as they do. It’s serenity that awaits all willing to endure the hard, rocky trail starting from a rough road requiring a high-clearance vehicle.

Lost Lake

Nearest town: Nederland

Round trip: ~4.5 miles, ~800 feet elevation gain

Lost Lake is found very, very often. That’s because it’s fairly easy to reach from the highly accessible Hessie trailhead. If you know about the parking situation, accessible is a relative term. Fortunately, hikers can catch a shuttle from Nederland High School. It’s hassle-free the rest of the way to the beautiful lake — a classic scene of Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Mohawk Lake

Nearest town: Breckenridge

Round trip: ~6.2 miles, ~1,500 feet elevation gain

Talk about bang for the buck. You get it all: stream-fed forests, wildflower-spotted meadows, views of fourteeners and even glimpses of mining history in the form of ruins. All in the span of about 3 miles from Spruce Creek trailhead. It’s reached off Colorado 9, close to Quandary Peak’s base. The lake is a big attraction, but there’s plenty of room for solitude along its banks.

Alpine beauty

Christian Murdock

By Daliah Singer

For a landlocked state, Colorado certainly isn’t short on water to play in. As snowmelt runs down the mountains in spring and summer, paddlers take to our abundant rivers to kayak, raft, stand-up paddleboard, tube and more. It’s not all just for fun, though. A stacked lineup of whitewater festivals offers plenty of competitions for those who want to test their skills. Add these six to your calendar.

CKS Paddlefest

May 23–27, Buena Vista

Every year, longstanding paddling experts CKS River Supply hosts a weekend of wet fun, starting with a town party Thursday evening. The competitions — including a kayak sprint slalom, time-trial raft races, river surfing and a freestyle kayak rodeo — kick off Friday. It’s a great time to gear up for the season, with a three-day, store-wide sale on new and used goods. cksriversupply.com

Yampa River Festival

May 30–June 2, Steamboat Springs

The Yampa River has long been a hot spot for tubers of all ages, but the tradition comes alive during Friends of the Yampa’s event (now in its 44th year). The main affair takes place downtown Saturday, but there are plenty of kayak, stand-up paddleboard and tubing events to catch each day. Enjoy dining at eateries along the river. friendsoftheyampa.com

Animas River Days

June 1–2, Durango

The competition is varied during this jam-packed weekend, with everything from river surfing and freestyle kayaking to boatercross. Don’t forget the late-afternoon, costumed river parade slated for Saturday; it’s always an amusingly good time. Stay hydrated with beverages from local favorites Ska Brewing Co. and Peach Street Distillers (plus, you know, water). animasriverdays.com

GoPro Mountain Games

June 6–9, Vail

This festival has something for athletes of any age. Groms (those 18 and younger) can compete in mountain biking, climbing, running and, yes, kayaking and paddleboarding events. Beyond the myriad whitewater contests, the doggie big air competition and big-name musical acts (lineup includes Xavier Rudd and Dispatch) are huge draws. mountaingames.com

FIBArk

June 13–16, Salida

Colorado claims the nation’s oldest whitewater festival — FIBArk (First in Boating on the Arkansas). It has taken over Salida every June since 1949. The 26-mile Downriver Race on Class III to IV rapids is a signature event, but don’t sleep on the Hooligan Race (where competitors can ride anything that’s not a boat) and dry happenings such as concerts and skateboarding. fibark.com

Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival

July 26–27, Cañon City

For 15 years, whitewater enthusiasts have amassed in Centennial Park in southern Colorado for a weekend of whitewater competitions, a raft rodeo and a stand-up paddleboard parade. Of course, the fun isn’t limited to the water; music, trail run and mountain bike contests, and even a weenie dog race fill out the packed schedule. royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com

Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

DOLORES DREAMS OF

CORTEZ • They drove north through the fields that the ancient Anasazi scraped, farming dry. Now the fields were fertile in this gracious season: alfalfa sprouting here, pinto beans there.

And visitors from every point of the Four Corners were turning onto this dirt road and that dirt road, eventually finding the seemingly out-of-place sign for Dolores River access. They headed down to the spectacular underworld somewhere between mountains and desert.

The put-in was busy, because the whitewater ran strong between the canyon’s soaring red walls, and because locals and visitors alike knew it would only be like this for so long.

“You’re all here at a momentous time,” guide Trey Roberts said before the drop. “You’re about to raft a big, famous, rare river.”

Jeanette Healy of Utah had been waiting 10-plus years

for this chance on the Dolores. Doug Nie, a kayaker from Albuquerque, had been waiting even longer.

It’s worth the wait, said Bill Dvorak, who’s frequented the state’s rivers since the 1960s. And he gets on it almost every floatable opportunity. Chances have been tough to come by since the 1980s, when McPhee Dam began trapping the water.

“World-class,” Dvorak called it. “To me, it’s up there with the Grand Canyon and Middle Fork of the Salmon. It’s right up there with the best in the country.”

Congress authorized the Dolores Project in 1968 as part of the Colorado River Storage Project Act that shaped the way of water in the West. Plans for lakes Powell and Mead sparked controversy nationwide, while locals on these dusty fringes grappled all the same with their home being changed forever.

Cortez, Dove Creek and outposts between got their longterm drinking water, as did the Ute Mountain Ute Nation to the south, which previously was served by a delivery truck. The fields got widespread irrigation, reversing the fortunes of farmers.

But what would become of that storied river?

Releases remain unpredictable, said Michael Preston, general manager of Dolores Water Conservancy District. The Bureau of Reclamation factors in current reservoir levels with never-perfect forecasts. Then there’s juggling ever-increasing demand: Farmers combine for the largest allocation of the supply, recent spreadsheets show, followed by the downstream fishery, tribe and municipalities.

“McPhee is a hard-working reservoir,” Preston said. “We use every inch of our active storage capacity to take care of things.”

So what’s that mean for rafting releases?

because maybe we don’t deserve the Dolores River.”

Wright does hold on to the belief that there is something to be personally and spiritually gained by the Dolores. That’s why he keeps a notebook safely secured in an ammo box, what he calls the Reflection Box, there for anyone.

“We’re entering this journey with this emotional arch,” Wright said to our group as we embarked.

The height of that arch is reached at Snaggletooth, the legendary Class IV rapid aptly named. Swirling eddies are like mouths ready to inhale, the jumble of rocks like jaws ready to chomp.

From an embankment, we stopped to analyze the beast. And, yes, Wright was scared. “If someone says they’re not scared, don’t get in their boat,” he said.

Then he waxed philosophical again: “It’s like making a big change in life or going through a difficult time. What’s

“It’s gonna happen when Mother Nature provides the snowpack, simple as that,” he said.

Durango-based Mild to Wild Rafting is among the few outfitters still using the Dolores. From a company standpoint, it doesn’t make sense, our trip leader explained.

The unpredictable releases make it hard to book reservations. The remoteness makes logistics tricky and costly. Then there’s getting guides familiar with a river that’s hard to get familiar with.

Fortunately for us, the guy steering our boat has spent a decade in some of the West’s most wicked river canyons.

Christian Wright can tell you the facts behind Dolores’ geologic fantasy. He has many thoughts on many things. The way bucket lists confine us rather than unleash us. The way phones suck our ability for abstract thought.

As for the dam, Wright has a thought there too. First, he must describe what he’s seen on the river.

The lack of commercialism ensures locals’ reign over the Dolores, but Wright has seen trash left behind and messy campsites after drunken parties. Then he speaks what most in his circle would call sacrilegious:

“Maybe it’s good we have the dam. Maybe we need the dam

‘You’re about to raft a big, famous, rare river.’

– TREY ROBERTS

cool about rivers is there’s a point where you go in and you can’t back out. The river takes you. That’s pretty cool.”

Not cool when the boat crashes over a rock, and Snaggletooth swallows.

Two fell into the furious water.

“Grab ‘em! Grab ‘em! Grab ‘em!” Wright shouted over the waves.

They were yanked by the life vests, pulled back to safety.

And there is relief before celebration. And later there is camping under the diamond stars, casting the great rock walls in a glow, stirring imaginations over those high cathedrals and hoodoos storing deep time, remnants of those ancient people.

And the next day the river is wider and still, meandering out of the extreme canyon to a calmer landscape: lower rocks, bigger sky, bright-green box elder trees and tall willows and bird nests and butterfly meadows.

The trip was coming to an end. It was time to reach for the Reflection Box, where one began a message to the unknown readers to come: “I feel so grateful to raft on the Dolores ...”

Murdock

WHITEWATER

By Seth Boster

GUNNISON GORGE: The late, prolific landscape photographer John Fielder famously knew every nook and cranny of Colorado. Gunnison Gorge was one of his favorite spots. So it has been for residents around Montrose, who have historically packed horses to haul gear into the rugged realm. The Chukar Trail to the put-in is no cakewalk. One is rewarded with an endlessly scenic journey over Class II-IV rapids. A common trip covers two or three days to the put-out at Gunnison River Pleasure Park.

NORTHGATE CANYON: A lesser-known, 11-mile stretch of the North Platte River carves this granite wonder. The canyon helps to define Northgate Wilderness outside Walden in northwest Colorado — calling both to bald eagles and to boaters worthy of navigating the rock-riddled, Class III-IV water. Some make it a full day from the Routt Access put-in to Six Mile Gap. Others add another day or two to reach an ideal destination for reflecting, recovering and celebrating: the hot springs of Saratoga, Wyo.

ROYAL GORGE: Maybe you’ve only gazed upon the Arkansas River from high atop the bridge or from inside an aerial gondola at the theme park. Maybe you’ve wondered about that thrill far below through the deep, dark depths of the Royal Gorge. Maybe you should keep wondering. Experienced guides point to several, family-friendly trips along the river closer to Buena Vista. Only the fit and prepared take on the big waves and steep drops of the Royal Gorge — something to brag about when it’s over.

YAMPA RIVER: This is the last free-flowing tributary of the Colorado River system, which only begins to capture its legend. The trip through the sandstone canyon of Dinosaur National Monument must be experienced to be understood. It’s a hard experience to come by. That’s due to Mother Nature not always providing boatable water, and also due to private permits being in high demand and short supply. When conditions allow, some outfitters offer multi-day trips over 71 miles of mostly mild water.

Whitewater runners hope always for years like last year, when unusually gracious snowpack melted to swell Colorado’s rivers. It meant days on the Dolores River, which only rarely rises through the remote, desert canyon of the southwest. The Dolores is but one river on this state’s bucket list.

John Fielder

GUNNISON GORGE

When you’re on cloud 9 before you even take off...

You may ask yourself, “is it weird to be in love with an airport?” But with all of the amenities and conveniences at Colorado’s small airport, we completely understand the feeling. So lean into your affections when you Fly COS, and fall in love with Colorado’s small airport.

WHITEWATER

By Seth Boster

parks

Buena Vista Whitewater Park: Just south of downtown, the swanky South Main business and residential development provides the fun, family-friendly base for the Arkansas River park. A trail network lines the hills above the river banks, providing views of the boaters and not-so-distant 14,000-foot peaks. After the river run, Eddyline Brewery provides the pizza and beer.

Clear Creek Whitewater Park: The park was dedicated in 1998, ensuring the city’s economic and social identity for the next millennium. Golden is not Golden without the scene along downtown: Boaters making their way toward Coors Brewery. The city describes the upper part of the course as intermediate, the middle part as more gentle and the lower part as more extreme.

Confluence Park: This is where Denver floaters of every age and more experienced paddlers beat the city heat throughout the summer. The historic green space is named for its place at the confluence of South Platte River and Cherry Creek, Denver’s originating place. Regulars on the series of drops, waves and eddies have watched LoDo grow up around them — a unique urban experience preserved.

Eagle River Park: Eagle town leaders in 2019 celebrated the completion of what they considered a world-class amenity to outdo any counterpart in the state. Off Interstate 70, the 4.3-acre park includes a pavilion, a beach area, fire pits and, of course, features to thrill every type of boater. It’s billed as a park “connecting the heart of Eagle to the soul of the river.”

River Park at Las Colonias: This is another newer river park, an addition to Grand Junction’s varied Las Colonias Park. The greater park includes trails, dog parks, playgrounds and ponds for kayaking and paddleboarding. The river park comprises waves, a beach and wading areas, but the experience is known to change with the whims of Colorado River flows.

Glenwood Whitewater Park: Glenwood Springs locals know it as the G-wave — the premier, standing wave on this long-cherished stretch of the Colorado River. There is also a smaller wave to the right side of the river and pools for practicing. A city website reports on the conditions, noting: “At high water levels, the feature blends to form one very wide wave.”

Montrose Water Sports Park: Spanning 1,000 feet of the Uncompahgre River, the city calls this one of the state’s largest whitewater parks, proudly “designed with all citizens in mind, from ankle waders to expert kayakers.” Six drops line the river, which ties in with Clifford E. Baldridge Regional Park. The complex includes a disc golf course and trail network.

Poudre River Whitewater Park: The park was completed in 2019 to much fanfare. Fort Collins’ mayor at the time called it “a gem” connecting Old Town to the Poudre. Local officials warn it is not a “lazy river” — not for the casual, unprepared tuber, especially with more recent years seeing hazardous debris in the river following the Cameron Peak fire in 2020.

Drop into many of Colorado’s riverside towns and you won’t need to go far to find the culture of play.

Increasingly over the years, towns have built and expanded central meeting places for enthusiastic kayakers, tubers and stand-up paddleboarders: whitewater parks of rock-made waves, drops and rapids.

Whether you partake or spectate, here are eight such destinations around the state.

Parker Seibold BUENA VISTA WHITEWATER PARK

By Spencer McKee

As warmer weather arrives in Colorado, it’s crucial to keep best practices in mind when recreating in the state’s many bodies of water. Here are a few tips:

WISDOM water

1. Always, always, always wear a life jacket: In most water fatalities, a life jacket would have changed the outcome. So when activities are planned in and around water in Colorado, put on a life jacket and keep it securely fastened.

2. Beware of cold water: Cold shock can kill in Colorado — even during the summer. Hyperventilation, blood pressure issues and cognitive impairment are some of the symptoms, and they can appear in water as warm as 77 degrees.

3. Never swim alone: Always use the buddy system so that someone else can get help in the event of an emergency.

4. Heed the weather: Conditions change quickly in Colorado, with sudden and strong winds often being a factor in water rescues. Be aware of the forecast. In the event of gusty winds or lightning, exit the water immediately.

5. Don’t drink the water: While natural water in Colorado can be fun to play in, it shouldn’t be ingested. Natural bodies of water can carry all sorts of nasty bacteria, viruses and other organisms — even when it appears clean.

Enjoy A summer of Colorado adventure

6. Exercise caution on water banks: Water can erode the earth beneath the surface of a river bank, making it possible for these banks to collapse. Avoid standing close to flowing water and wear a life jacket if you do. It’s also worth noting that surfaces around water can be slick due to moisture and plant life.

7. Follow signage related to access: Swimming is restricted or prohibited in many popular bodies of water in Colorado. Obey the posted guidelines and research the areas for access rules prior to visiting.

8. Don’t dive: Diving into deep water puts the diver at risk, as water depth tends to be unknown. This is because water levels in natural sources can vary from day to day and year to year. Don’t assume a jumping point is safe because it’s been used in the past.

9. Swim sober: Alcohol can impede a body’s ability to regulate its temperature. This can pose a number of issues when it comes to combining booze with swimming, including an increased risk of cold shock.

Pueblo, Colorado offers all the summer adventures for outdoor enthusiasts. Explore biking trails, enjoy disc golf at the top-rated course, fly fish along the Arkansas River, embark on gravel cycling adventures, and take a leisurely stroll along the Historic Arkansas Riverwalk. Don’t miss out on the chance to experience the flavor of Pueblo while enjoying its natural beauty!

Come on in, the water’s fine

By Spencer McKee

LOOKING BACK, I never meant to ignore paddleboarding. It’s just that the many other outdoor recreation opportunities in Colorado proved more enticing. Granted, I prefer land-based experiences over those on water, but that hadn’t kept me from whitewater rafting and even purchasing my own kayak. After all, the kayak, I had assumed, would be my most comfortable and sturdy option on lakes around the state.

Boy, was I ever wrong.

Last summer, after nine years in Colorado, I decided stand-up paddleboarding was worth a try. So I attended an UpaDownahosted class on Colorado Springs’ Quail Lake, unsure of what to expect.

Standing on the shore with paddle in hand, I gently pushed the inflatablebut-firm paddleboard into the water and waded in behind it. After climbing aboard, I sat down and headed for deeper water.

Once clear of the shore, I stood and immediately my untrained legs began trembling as I fought to maintain balance. But soon my body adapted to the new surface and the shaking subsided.

With one paddle stroke after another, I navigated the lake with ease for about an hour, switching between sitting and standing — a move not borne of fatigue or discomfort but simply the desire to stand or sit. In either position, getting around was easy — much easier than it had ever been on a kayak.

Eventually, I made my way back to shore with a smile on my face. There was no grand climax to this paddleboarding experience, but I think that’s the point. It’s all about relaxation and predictability. I found it to be less exhausting and more comfortable than kayaking. Being able to move on the board and switch positions without feeling cramped or worried about flipping the watercraft was also appealing. Plus, the board features plenty of space for drinks and snacks.

Obviously, paddleboarding on a Colorado river would be more intense. But when it comes to paddleboarding on a relatively still lake, it’s a great blend of subtle physical fitness and peace.

I’m eager to get back on a paddleboard this summer. And I’d recommend it to anyone who’s ever considered trying. Just don’t forget to wear a life jacket.

Spencer McKee QUAIL LAKE

BEAR CREEK LAKE PARK: While many Denverites take their boards to Cherry Creek Reservoir and Sloan Lake, the benefit to this Lakewood park is twofold: It’s home to Soda Lake and the larger Bear Creek Lake. No motorized vessels on Soda Lake means you as a first-timer won’t have to worry about the wake. Small engines are allowed on Bear Creek Lake, meaning it won’t be much of a step up, and you get a different view.

EVERGREEN LAKE: The boathouse has offered rentals over the years to onlookers easily captivated by the SUP trend here in the hills beyond Denver. There have been yoga classes on paddleboards along with sunrise and full moon programs. It’s a lake free of gas engines, which adds even more tranquility amid the tranquil, forested scene.

GRAND LAKE: There might be no better beach experience in Colorado than this town situated on the state’s largest natural body of water. And there might be no better way to experience the water than with an upright view of the beauty of Rocky Mountain National Park’s western side.

LAKE SAN CRISTOBAL: Lake City is a quaint, ideal base camp for exploring western Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. But who says you have to venture higher? You can stay put at the state’s second largest lake — a calm, blue dream. Don’t miss the island toward the middle of the water, also reached by a suspension bridge.

RAMPART RESERVOIR: Prospect and Quail lakes are the popular spots in Colorado Springs — with a big emphasis on popular. High in the national forest west of town, Rampart Reservoir also gets busy and, unlike the other two bodies of water, motor boats are allowed here, so the waters could be bumpy in spots. But at least there’s a lot more room to roam. And you can’t beat the view of Pikes Peak.

VALLECITO LAKE: For being one of Colorado’s biggest bodies of water, Vallecito Lake tends to hide from popular view. Don’t miss it on your next trip to Durango. About 20 miles northeast of town, the lake is serviced by Vallecito Marina, which has rented paddleboards for a quiet, unforgettable experience under the high peaks of Weminuche Wilderness.

Slow your roll

By Seth Boster

Stand-up paddleboarding, affectionately shortened to SUP, is the latest craze in Colorado’s water recreation scene. If you’re curious as to why, we’ve got some ideal starting spots in mind.

Before you go, make sure you’re up to speed on rules, regulations and fees that vary across jurisdictions.

Chancey Bush

GRAND LAKE

Colorado town to love in summer:

BOULDER

By Seth Boster

BOULDER • It’s Prime Time in Boulder. You already know that. You know that along with millions of national TV viewers who watched a charismatic coach take the college football world by storm last year. Prime’s effect? One study suggested the local economy could thank Deion Sanders for $113.2 million in impact. University of Colorado has reported a 20% increase in freshman applications, amounting to 68,000.

New students will find football far from rules Boulder. They’ll find outdoor places beyond their wildest dreams. They’ll find food and drink to match those dreams and shopping to match the finest corridor of any big city. They might just find the hippie culture that predated today’s scene.

There is indeed much to find in Boulder. And summer is the prime time to go.

Tea and tunes

You’ll have your senses awakened during the tea tour at Celestial Seasonings. And you’ll have your curiosity piqued by the tale of youngsters who in 1969 started collecting wild herbs around Boulder’s fields and forests and saw a tea empire rise.

Continue the theme at Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse. The ornate structure was built by pieces shipped from Tajikistan, where such vibrant, airy and flavorful tea houses are more common. Immerse yourself in the space with something to sip and eat from the eclectic, carefully curated menu.

Music is even more core to Boulder than tea. Boogie down for a big show and big view at Folsom Field. Or check out the acts at Fox Theatre off Pearl Street, where there’s also the more intimate Velvet Elk Lounge, specializing in local talent.

FLATIRONS

BOULDER

Get outside

Pearl Street Mall is outside for a reason. Boulder is best outdoors, where those iconic, tilting, mountainside rocks loom in view.

Get a closer look at the Flatirons from Chautauqua Park. You don’t have to hike to the formations to enjoy yourself; the trail system is suited to all levels.

For more of a challenge, Mount Sanitas is a go-to living up to its name for local fitness fanatics (Sanitas is Latin for “health”). For a longer trek to a higher point, head to Gregory Canyon trailhead. That’s the starting point for Green Mountain’s summit, covering a round trip of about six miles.

Valmont Bike Park is a biker’s mecca for drops, jumps and big turns.

Pearl perfection

Pearl Street Mall is the center of town, the spot for the shopper and the foodie and the people-watcher delighted by buskers.

Shopping? Where to begin? Maybe you’re most comfortable with names you know: Athleta, Urban Outfitters, Patagonia and Free People to name a few. But you’d be wise to pop into shops run by locals who know fashion and gifts best.

You can find a story in Cedar & Hyde Mercantile — the family-run shop promises one in every piece of clothing and decor. For 30-plus years, Weekends has been keeping up with the latest in men’s and women’s style. Savvy on Pearl is another staple clothier. Check out Peppercorn for fine kitchenware and gourmet goodies. There’s even a store for kites: Into the Wind.

As for fuel, consider Foolish Craig’s Cafe for breakfast — the funky, local foil to next-door neighbor Snooze. For lunch, we love Chinese street food at Zo Ma Ma. Some of Boulder’s classic, upscale eateries can be found nearby, including Michelin-recognized OAK at Fourteenth and Frasca Food and Wine.

By Seth Boster

LASTING IMPACT

MEDANO CREEK

Across Colorado’s four national parks, water is both celebrated and overlooked.

Water is not necessarily at the forefront of the parks’ popular postcards. The parks find themselves in a semi-desert state, after all. But if you venture far enough in some cases, if you visit at the right time and look closely in other cases, water’s role is clear: essential.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison: The park brochure tells of “The Song of the Gunnison.” The brochure implores one to be still and listen to the rush of wind through the deep, narrow canyon — and the rush of water some 2,000 feet below.

That’s the Gunnison River, which has long inspired romantic ruminations. It has inspired desperate, daring tales, including that of Abraham Lincoln Fellows. He is credited as the first to report surviving the passage from either end of the canyon. The river “reverberated and echoed like demons howling over their prey,” he wrote in 1901.

It’s language that serves as a warning to explorers today. “Kayakers run the river at their own risk,” reads the park website.

Great Sand Dunes: Here where North America’s tallest sand dunes rise with the surrounding Sangre de Cristo peaks, so too does a creek — sometimes appearing more like a river. It’s one more surprise of perhaps Colorado’s most surprising landscape.

Yes, at peak flows toward the end of May, Medano Creek can rise and surge, making waves for kids surfing on floats. That’s on the occasion that snowpack is plentiful. The water can otherwise appear like a modest stream, no less enjoyed by families who come as if to a beach.

It’s Medano Creek to thank for the sand dunes, you see. From the mountains, the water carries down sediment to be trapped and then built upward by swirling winds.

Mesa Verde: Water is not the attraction at this archaeological wonder in southwest Colorado. The attractions are the cliff dwellings, built and occupied by the Ancestral Puebloans beginning in the late 12th century. Look closely, and you’ll see how they got water.

The park points to small channels and depressions across the mesa’s vast rock. Those were handcarved by the ancient people.

“The Ancestral Pueblo people likely knew the location of every seep spring on Mesa Verde,” the park notes. “They often managed the flow of water emerging from a cliff face by carving small depressions into the shale floor, channeling the water into small pools from which to collect the water.”

Rocky Mountain: Lakes and waterfalls are calling cards of the park. Bear Lake might just be the most photographed scene in Rocky, while others venture on to Dream Lake, Emerald Lake, Lake of Glass, Sky Pond or any of the several bodies of water spotting the alpine. Just as popular are a smattering of cascades: Alberta Falls, Ouzel Falls and Adams Falls among them.

Often missed is a fact that makes the park’s landscape of utmost importance: The Colorado River starts in these high boundaries. From the Continental Divide, the river winds its critical way through canyons, deserts and dams of the Southwest.

The headwaters of the Big Thompson and Cache La Poudre rivers also originate in the park.

A GUIDE TO

streams for the serenity they afford. And we love them for the colorful fish they keep. Here we get to know some of the state’s vast array:

Rainbow trout: While it is “the angler’s favorite and the mainstay of Colorado’s hatchery system,” as Colorado Parks and Wildlife describes the species, it is not native to the state. Rainbows are said to have been introduced in the 1880s. They’ve gone on to be that delightful, shiny sight spotted in waters from the mountains to the plains.

Cutthroat trout: CPW notes three natives to the state: the greenback, the Rio Grande and the Colorado.

Red throats distinguish the fish from rainbows, along with bolder spots. The greenback is the designated state fish. It’s celebrated at the historic Leadville National Fish Hatchery, which has been at the forefront of recovery efforts.

Brown trout: Like rainbows, browns were introduced to Colorado in the late 19th century and similarly swim in rivers and reservoirs all over the state. Where it lacks the color of the rainbow, it makes up for in size. State record books list a 30.5-pounder compared with just a 19.6-pound rainbow (both caught in Gunnison County).

Brook trout: All fish are hungry, but especially the brook. It feasts on insects and “will rise to a large range of small lures, baits and flies,” according to CPW. The agency con-

siders the white-spotted, colorfully finned trout “prolific” and often “overpopulated” as it outcompetes other species.

Lake trout:

largest trout — as Colorado’s re cord 50-pounder goes to show. That fish was caught in Blue Mesa Reservoir, representing the kind of big and deep water where lake trout prefer to lurk.

COLORADO’S

Kokanee salmon: Blue Mesa Reservoir is also a hot spot for these lunkers, which flash silver and reddish and can span more than 20 inches. Males develop peculiar “hook jaws.” These fish are a sight to see — and a tasty meal to be had, anglers will tell you.

Walleye: Some prefer to eat salmon while others swear by walleye,

By Seth Boster

COLORADO’S FISH

and where to find them

Yellow perch: It might be the state’s most abundant game fish, CPW notes, “and one of the most table-worthy.” The fish is much smaller than the others, a pound or two typically. Along with the yellowish bodies, they are marked by dark stripes and swim in eye-catching schools.

Channel catfish: From its native waters in eastern Colorado, the species has gone on to warmer rivers and lakes statewide. Aurora Reservoir was home to the record catch

to Horsetooth Reservoir. On the Western Slope, Yampa River is well-known for smallies, which aren’t so different in terms of capable lengths exceeding 20 inches. The red eyes and faint, vertical stripes are different from largemouths.

Tiger muskie: It was brought to Colorado in the 1980s to control sucker and carp numbers and to provide a trophy chase. Colored like a tiger, with teeth also of a predator, you can find it atop state record books for all fish types: one at 40.15 pounds pulled from Quincy

Reservoir and another measuring 41.5 inches taken from Clear Creek Reservoir.

Mountain whitefish: It is true to the name in color and location, native to northwest Colorado’s mountainous Yampa and White rivers. The fish was later added to the Colorado and Cache la Poudre rivers, giving more anglers the challenge presented by its small, delicate mouth.

Grayling: Outside Walden, the high-mountain Joe Wright Reservoir is a surprise, predominant home of this surprise species of the arctic. Here, CPW has reported successful stocking and spawning of the fish, unmistakable for its “large, sail-like dorsal fin.” CPW reports the fish “can be a nice challenge, not to mention a great photo opportunity.”

By Seth Boster

A room with a view

They’re two of the most common questions Kiernan Lannon fields at Telluride Historical Museum.

“What’s going on with that house? Whose house is that?” the museum’s executive director said. “Which is a nice point of entry to talk about electricity here.”

The history of electricity has a significant place around Telluride. And, indeed, there is no more dramatic symbol than that house high on the cliff, beside Colorado’s tallest free-falling waterfall.

That’s the old Smuggler-Union Hydroelectric Plant perched some 400 feet above the valley floor and next to Bridal Veil Falls. Yes, it did double as a house at one time. But, no, no one lives there now.

This century has seen the plant generate power for the town thanks to that stunning cascade, as mighty as Bulkeley Wells found it in the early 1900s.

Wells was the Smuggler-Union Mining Co. manager who persuaded higher-ups to build the structure for lighting the company’s mines and running its mills. “He also convinced them somebody needed to live there, so it might as well be him,” Lannon said.

So it was, starting in 1907. Flash forward to 1978, long after the company’s collapse, when the National Register of Historic Places found the plant worthy of entry.

That was for its connection to Colorado’s historic industry, “particularly the Smuggler-Union Mining Co., one of the state’s most important producers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,” reads the nomination form.

The register notes the plant’s sheer beauty — the rustic architecture, the waterfall-streaked cliff and the San Juan Mountains that all together “provide one of the most spectacular vistas in Colorado.” The site “serves as a mecca for photographers,

Jessica Van Dyne

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS

artists and tourists,” the form reads.

Also noted is the plant’s “pioneering role in the development of hydroelectric power used for industrial purposes in the United States.”

The Smuggler-Union Hydroelectric Plant followed the boundary-breaking steps of a similar utility built in 1890 not far away: the Ames Hydroelectric Plant in Ophir.

That was the vision of local stockholder Lucien Nunn, who in those heydays of Tesla and Edison thought of a cheaper way to power Gold King Mine. Westinghouse engineers made the Ames plant a reality. It’s considered the world’s first commercial utility to produce and transmit alternating current electricity over a long distance.

Smuggler-Union Mining Co. took things to greater heights above Telluride.

What better power generator than the strongest waterfall around? The cliff beside roaring Bridal Veil Falls was “kind of a no-brainer,” Lannon said.

The ambitious construction commenced amid tense, bloody relations between miners and their superiors. The labor wars were such that federal soldiers were called in.

Wells assumed his management rank after the murder of a predecessor. Wells, too, “was not particularly well-liked,” Lannon said.

“The one story that probably sums up who he is,” as Lannon put it, happened before the man’s move up Bridal Veil Falls in 1907.

DISCOVER A TRUE

Hidden Gem

“He would apparently sleep outside on the porch, thinking the outside air was healthier for him,” Lannon said. “One evening while he was sleeping, he had some dynamite blow up below him. He survived with minor injuries.”

Wells insisted it was the union guys, but “there’s some pretty good evidence that he blew it up himself to generate sympathy or frame the miners,” Lannon said.

The incident might have hinted at Wells’ tragic demise.

Reads his obituary from May 26, 1931, in San Francisco: “Bulkeley Wells, aged 59, a mining engineer once wealthy and prominent, ended his life here today with a pistol bullet.”

He reportedly left a note, “in which he intimated that loss of wealth and fear of insanity prompted his act.”

Wealth was not meant to be back in Colorado. Telluride shared the story of mining towns across the Rockies: boom, then bust.

Telluride booms now, of course, thanks to tourism. Partly thanks, it turns out, to that old power plant, now a fenced-off attraction.

“If you consider the number of people just passing it and taking photos, it would be one of the more visited structures in town,” Lannon said.

And, yes, some head to the museum to ask about it.

“People find it interesting,” Lannon said. “It’s just always been there, overlooking the valley.”

Fall in love

By Spencer McKee

Arguably no water feature in the Centennial State is more stunning than the waterfall, and Colorado is home to plenty. Here’s a road trip through the western half of the state designed to showcase some of Colorado’s more picturesque cascades that are also easy to access.

Christian Murdock

FISH CREEK FALLS

Hit the road for this scenic tour of Colorado cascades

1. North Clear Creek Falls

This impressive waterfall is found off Colorado 149 between Lake City and Creede. It drops more than 100 feet and makes an ideal place for a picnic. The best part of this natural attraction might just be its accessibility. No need for hiking boots and a backpack; simply pull off the highway, park and stroll over to the railing.

2. Treasure Falls

While this one isn’t right off a state highway, it’s close enough to be considered quite accessible. Located 15 miles from Pagosa Springs, the 105-foot cascade is reached after a quarter-mile walk. Treasure is believed to have been buried somewhere in the area in the 1700s. It hasn’t been found, but don’t go looking for it.

3. Bridal Veil Falls

Situated only a couple of miles from downtown Telluride, this is a popular spot for tourists and locals. And for good reason. It’s the tallest free-falling waterfall in Colorado, dropping a whopping 365 feet. It’s located off Black Bear Pass, and the top is accessible with a high-clearance vehicle. There’s also a trail to the base.

4. Box Cañon Falls

Nestled in the mountain town of Ouray, this waterfall is an official recreation site, meaning visitors need to park and pay an entrance fee. The water feature can be accessed via a short walk into the canyon. Before leaving town, be sure to visit Lower Cascade Falls. If you’re craving a challenge, hike to Upper Cascade Falls.

5. Rifle Falls

This site inside Rifle Falls State Park doesn’t feel or look like Colorado. A few miles off Interstate 70, it’s unique for its lush, jungle-like environment featuring a trio of waterfalls roughly 70 feet tall. There are also small caves around the falls to explore. Guests can access the area via a short, paved path. Daily fee is required.

6. Hanging Lake

While a visit to this iconic Colorado attraction does require a steep hike and a reservation, its proximity to I-70 makes it easily accessible (note that a shuttle ride is sometimes required). And those who reach the lake won’t be disappointed. Bonus: Don’t forget to budget some extra time to see the “Spouting Rock” waterfall.

7. Fish Creek Falls

While you can’t drive to the base of this waterfall in Steamboat Springs, the lower portion can be accessed relatively easy via a gravel path from the parking area. Dropping a distance of 280 feet, the cascade is well worth the half-mile round trip — and the entrance fee. A moderate hike leads to Upper Fish Creek Falls.

1 2 5 6

Susannah Kay

FAIRS

JULY 12-21: CUSTER COUNTY FAIR, Westcliffe, visitwetmountainvalley.com

July 12-21: PARK COUNTY FAIR, Fairplay, parkcofair.com

July 12-21: PUEBLO COUNTY FAIR, Pueblo, pueblocountyfair.com

July 13-20: EL PASO COUNTY FAIR, Calhan, elpasocountyfair.com

July 16-20: MESA COUNTY FAIR, Grand Junction, mesacountyfair.com

July 19-27: MONTROSE COUNTY FAIR, Montrose, montrosecountyfairandrodeo.com

July 20-28: GARFIELD COUNTY FAIR, Rifle, garfieldcountyfair.com

July 20-29: WELD COUNTY FAIR, Greeley, weldcountyfair.com

July 25-28: ARAPAHOE COUNTY FAIR, Aurora, arapahoecountyfair.com

July 25-Aug. 4: LOGAN COUNTY FAIR, Sterling, lcfair.org

July 26-Aug. 3: CHAFFEE COUNTY FAIR, Poncha Springs, chaffeecountyfair.com

July 26-Aug. 3: FREMONT COUNTY FAIR, Florence, fremontcountyco.gov

July 26-Aug. 3: MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR, Cortez, montezumacountyfair.com

July 26-Aug. 4: DOUGLAS COUNTY FAIR, Castle Rock, douglascountyfairandrodeo.com

July 27-Aug. 3: DELTA COUNTY FAIR, Hotchkiss, deltacountyfair.com.

July 27-Aug. 4: ELBERT COUNTY FAIR, Kiowa, elbertcountyfair.com

July 27-Aug. 4: TELLER COUNTY FAIR, Cripple Creek, cripplecreek.com

July 29-Aug. 4: RIO BLANCO COUNTY FAIR, Meeker, rbc.us

July 31-Aug. 4: ADAMS COUNTY FAIR, Brighton, adamscountyfair.com

Aug. 2-6: LARIMER COUNTY FAIR, Loveland, larimercountyfair.org

Aug. 3-11: GRAND COUNTY MIDDLE PARK FAIR, Kremmling, middleparkfairandrodeo.com

Aug. 5-10: MOFFAT COUNTY FAIR, Craig, moffatcountyfair.com

Aug. 5-10: LINCOLN COUNTY FAIR, Hugo, seelincolncounty.com/events

Aug. 7-11: BOULDER COUNTY FAIR, Longmont, bouldercountyfair.org

Aug. 7-11: LA PLATA COUNTY FAIR, Durango, laplatacountyfair.com

Aug. 9-13: HUERFANO COUNTY FAIR, La Veta, huerfanofair.com

Aug. 9-18: ROUTT COUNTY FAIR, Hayden, routtcountyfair.org

Aug. 14-17: ARKANSAS VALLEY FAIR, Rocky Ford, arkvalleyfair.com

Aug. 23-Sept. 2: COLORADO STATE FAIR, Pueblo, coloradostatefair.com

Fairs/rodeos

RODEOS

June 6-8: UTE MOUNTAIN ROUND-UP RODEO, Montezuma County Fairgrounds, Cortez, utemountainroundup.org

June 6-9: ELIZABETH STAMPEDE RODEO, Arena at Casey Jones Park, Elizabeth, elizabethstampede.com

June 6-Aug. 22: WILD WEST RODEO SERIES, Thursdays, Gus Darien Riding Area, Carbondale, carbondalerodeo.com

June 7-9: TOP OF THE WORLD RODEO, Teller County Fairgrounds, Cripple Creek, topoftheworldrodeo.com

June 15-16: EVERGREEN RODEO, El Pinal Arena, Evergreen; evergreenrodeo.com

June 19-Aug. 21: SNOWMASS RODEO, Wednesdays, Snowmass Rodeo Grounds, Snowmass Village, snowmassrodeo.org

June 21-22: COLORADO CHAMPIONSHIP RANCH RODEO, Lincoln County Fairgrounds, Hugo, coloradochampionshipranchrodeo.com

June 26-July 7: GREELEY STAMPEDE, Island Grove Regional Park, Greeley, greeleystampede.org

July 4-6: RED RYDER ROUNDUP RODEO, Western Heritage Event Center, Pagosa Springs, pagosarodeo.com

July 5-10: ROOFTOP RODEO, Estes Park Events Complex, Estes Park, rooftoprodeo.com

July 6-Aug. 17: HIGH COUNTRY STAMPEDE RODEO, Saturdays, John Work Arena, Fraser, highcountrystampede.com

July 9-13: PIKES PEAK OR BUST RODEO, Norris-Penrose Event Center, Colorado Springs, pikespeakorbust.org

July 11-13: CATTLEMEN’S DAYS, Gunnison County Fairgrounds, Gunnison, cattlemensdays.com

July 18-20: WET MOUNTAIN VALLEY STAMPEDE RANCH AND PRCA/WPRA RODEOS, Wet Mountain Valley Saddle Club Westcliffe, wmvsc.com

Wet ‘n’ mild

Christian Murdock

THE GROTTOS

Lakes, rivers help add to Colorado’s autumn show

Christian Murdock

By Seth Boster

In Colorado, fall is fleeting.

It’s a time to make a picture that will last a lifetime — a picture that captures our beloved, golden aspens in timeless beauty.

You’ll want water for that. Yes, we think the best shot pairs foliage with a blue, reflective foreground or a tumbling creek or cascade. Here are eight possibilities to get you started.

Crystal Mill: It might be Colorado’s most celebrated image of autumn: a historic structure perched upon a rock amid a glowing grove above a turquoise, waterfall-fed pool. It’s a wonder the powerhouse has stayed in shape since its 1893 construction. Respect is a constant message to visitors. And a warning: From Marble, the narrow road to the mill requires a four-wheel drive.

The Grottos: On the eastern side of Independence Pass, visitors get Twin Lakes, a classic scene of autumn. On the western side, closer to Aspen, visitors can find a less-discussed watery playground: the Grottos. This is the day-use area suited for picnicking families and explorers who let their curiosity take them to waterfalls, caves and pools tucked among impressive rock outcrops.

Highway of Legends: Around Denver and Colorado Springs, people tend to flock west for colors rather than south. Don’t miss this scenic byway stretching 82 miles through loads of history and Spanish Peaks scenery. We last traveled the highway from Trinidad to La Veta, following the foliage along Purgatoire and Cucharas rivers and stopping to take in gorgeous Monument Lake.

Lake Isabel: This is another gem that’s often overlooked in southern Colorado. It’s super accessible and perfect for the whole family.

Just take Interstate 25 and exit in Colorado City, following Colorado 165 about 18 miles to where the gold-spotted forest clears at the shimmering lake. A trail loops around it. Drive another six miles to Bishop Castle, an iconic roadside attraction.

Maroon Bells Scenic Area: You’ve no doubt seen the image: Those perfect, triangular peaks towering over the golden landscape surrounding Maroon Lake. If you haven’t shot it yourself — or, even better, simply stood in admiration by the shore — what are you waiting for? You’ll need to plan ahead. Parking or shuttle reservations are needed through October.

Silver Jack Reservoir: The 325-acre reservoir is found off Owl Creek Pass deep in the San Juan Mountains, backdropped by the natural beauty that set the scene in “True Grit.” Ridgway is the popular portal to the scenic drive, which, in dry conditions, can be managed by a sturdy passenger vehicle. Be sure to check maps for the county road spurs leading to the reservoir.

Taylor Reservoir: This is the big attraction for drivers along Cottonwood Pass, the paved road roaming over the Continental Divide from Buena Vista. But the reservoir is far from the only draw. From Buena Vista, pockets of color shine the whole way to the water framed by the Collegiate Peaks. You’ll want to continue for more leaf peeping along Taylor River toward Almont.

Upper Piney River Trail: Here’s one for the more adventurous, starting with the drive from Vail. The Forest Service outlines detailed directions for the fairly long, bumpy road, stopping near the private Piney River Ranch. Those who arrive get a great alpine lake view at the start. Then, after hiking about three miles through an aspen-laden river valley, a waterfall is the payoff.

Come fall in Colorado, aspen gets all the love. But yellow isn’t the only color in the hilly palette.

However short-lived and uncertain the display, it’s all the more reason to appreciate the underappreciated native that is Gambel oak.

Says Andy Schlosberg of the Colorado State Forest Service’s Woodland Park office: “Anywhere along the Front Range where you’re looking up and see those pretty oranges and reds, that’s almost always that oak.”

Quercus gambelii is the scientific name, after an adventurous naturalist whose life was cut all too short, like those lobed leaves against the wind and nighttime chill. William Gambel died of typhoid fever in 1849 at the age of 26.

Scrub oak is the common name, unflattering.

Oak envy While aspens steal the show, this native tree also offers color

By Seth Boster

“It’s been treated almost like a pest or a weed because of its root-sprouting capability, and its shrubby nature kind of gets in the way,” says Stan Kitchen, who previously studied the species with the Rocky Mountain Research Station.

Aspen and Gambel oak are quite different, of course. One is defined by a thin, white trunk; the other dark and rough.

One might be called regal; the other gnarly with its nonconforming branches and twigs. One’s leaf is smooth and petite; the other a bit hairy on the backside.

But they are more similar than meets the eyes. The chemical makeup is different, explaining the different colors. But the process by which the leaves turn on the way to shedding is the same.

The nutrient-giving days become shorter, the nights cooler. “The chlorophyll drains, and the leaves change color,” Schlosberg says.

And their process of cloning is similar. Gambel oak is prolific thanks to a deep root system that sends up shoots fast after fire, like aspen. Thanks to those deep, water-absorbing roots and xeromorphic, water-storing leaves, oak is strong, too, against drought. It lives just fine in the West’s dry, hardscrabble ground where the sun shines.

It is “an important contributor to our state’s biodiversity,” Colorado Native Plant Society reports.

The thick groves provide shelter and habitat for birds and mammals big and small, especially in winter. Bears fatten up on the acorns before hibernation, sharing with deer, elk and turkey. Oak serves as the lifelong home of the Colorado hairstreak, the state butterfly.

OURAY COUNTY

John Fielder

By Carlotta Olson

25 Fall Festivals

AUG. 29-SEPT. 2: TELLURIDE FILM FESTIVAL: The town triples in size this holiday weekend as film enthusiasts drop in for a total cinematic immersion; Telluride, telluridefilmfestival.org

AUG. 29-SEPT. 2: FOUR CORNERS MOTORCYCLE RALLY: Vroom, vroom. It’s going to be loud with iconic bikes, music, stunt shows and more; Durango, fourcornersmotorcyclerally.com

AUG. 30-SEPT. 1: JAZZ ASPEN SNOWMASS EXPERIENCE: Musical acts include Brandi Carlile, Sting, Tim McGraw, One Republic and The Black Crowes; Aspen, jazzaspensnowmass.org

AUG. 31-SEPT. 2: COLORADO SPRINGS LABOR DAY LIFT OFF: Hot air balloon flights, evening balloon glows and more; Memorial Park, Colorado Springs, coloradospringslabordayliftoff.com

AUG. 31-SEPT. 2: GATHERING AT THE GREAT DIVIDE ART FESTIVAL: This is the 49th year of the longest running art festival in Summit County; Breckenridge, mountainartfestivals.com

SEPT. 4-7: DENVER FOOD + WINE FESTIVAL: Four days of food, wine and spirits includes seminars, food truck competition, grand tasting and more; Denver, denverfoodandwine.com

SEPT. 6-8: LONGS PEAK SCOTTISH-IRISH HIGHLAND FESTIVAL: There’s something for everyone with live music and dance, dog competitions, a parade and more; Estes Park, scotfest.com

SEPT. 7: SAN LUIS VALLEY POTATO FESTIVAL: Day of food and fun features a mashed potato dunk tank, a 5K Tater Trot, chef demonstrations and more; Monte Vista, coloradopotato.org

SEPT. 7: OKTOBERWEST: Festival of live music, tasty food and much more will be celebrating its 15th year in this beautiful ski town; Steamboat Springs, steamboatoktoberwest.com

SEPT. 7-8: CASTLE ROCK ARTFEST: More than 100 exhibitors displaying works from life-size sculptures to photography and jewelry; Castle Rock, castlerock.org/castle-rock-artfest

SEPT. 7-8: FIBER ARTS FESTIVAL: One of the most diverse and well-attended fiber festivals in the West with food, wine garden, fashion show and more; Salida, salidafiberfestival.com

SEPT. 13-14: DINOSAUR STONE AGE STAMPEDE: Go way back in time with concerts, cornhole, beer garden and a prehistoric OHV poker run; Dinosaur, dinosaurstoneagestampede.com

SEPT. 13-15: ROCKY MOUNTAIN ARCHTOP GUITAR FESTIVAL: Celebrating the art, science and passion behind the guitar with more than 60 hours of music; Arvada, archtopfestival.com

SEPT. 13-15: OKTOBERFEST: Sip and sample several styles of Breckenridge Brewery beers, along with traditional German food and classic festival fare; Breckenridge, gobreck.com

SEPT. 13-15: VAIL CONCOURS: From contemporary supercars and sports cars to vintage collector cars and motorcycles, this isn’t an ordinary car show; Vail, vailautomotiveclassic.com

SEPT. 14-15: FIESTAS PATRIAS: Live music and dancing, Mexican wrestling, food vendors and more to highlight Hispanic Heritage Month; Colorado Springs, fiestaspatriascolorado.com

SEPT. 19-21: HIGH PLAINS COMEDY FESTIVAL: More than 100 local and national performers will keep you in a constant state of laughter; Denver, highplainscomedyfestival.com

SEPT. 19-22: SPANISH PEAKS INTERNATIONAL CELTIC MUSIC FESTIVAL: More than 50 workshops, demonstration talks, and singing/dancing/playing sessions; La Veta, celticmusicfest.com

SEPT. 27-28: LIVING HISTORY DAYS: Learn about 18th-century colonial American life via costumed interpreters, military demonstrations and more; Morrison, livinghistorydays.com

SEPT. 27-29: 14ER FEST: Multi-sport mountain festival, with off-roading, mountain biking, hiking, fly fishing and trail running, at base of Collegiate Peaks; Buena Vista, 14erfest.org

OCT. 4-5: POTATO DAYS: This is the 115th year of the festival, which includes a pancake breakfast, a parade, and a barbecue and baked potato lunch; Carbondale, carbondale.com

OCT. 4-6: CEDAREDGE APPLEFEST: “Life tastes sweeter here” is the motto, celebrating area fruit growers and attracting 30,000 festival attendees, Cedaredge; cedaredgeapplefest.com

OCT. 10-12: GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL: This is the premier beer competition, showcasing the finest examples of 100-plus beer styles; Denver, greatamericanbeerfestival.com

OCT. 11-13: HORROR SHOW: Colorado’s first and longest-running horror film festival with a mix of horror, suspense, sci-fi, dark comedy and more; Telluride, telluridehorrorshow.com

OCT. 12: CHOCTOBERFEST: Sample the finest chocolates in Colorado. It’s basically like Oktoberfest, but with chocolate and cheese instead of beer; Aurora, cochocolatefests.com

FRIDAY, AUGUST 30

CARLILE LUKAS NELSON

SATURDAY, AUGUST 31

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER

THE WAR AND TREATY

GENERAL ADMISSION & VIP TICKETS AVAILABLE NOW

JAZZASPENSNOWMASS.ORG

TICKET & LODGING PACKAGES: 800.SNOWMASS

By Seth Boster

Wanna see leaves? Stay close to home

Come fall, Colorado’s city dwellers are quick to swap the concrete for nature’s glow. Except that doesn’t always happen so quickly. One often travels great distances, to great displays across the Continental Divide. But one doesn’t have to. Here are some great hikes within about an hour’s drive of the state’s two biggest cities.

Denver

Caribou Ranch: Near Nederland, this Boulder County open space offers elevation and fertile meadows suited for aspen stands. It also offers a glimpse at music history: a barn that was a recording studio for the likes of Elton John and Chicago. DeLonde and Blue Bird trails combine for a little more than three miles of scenery.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park: When colors are at their peak, we suggest going on a weekday. If it’s a weekend, parking lots are known to fill fast. Raccoon Trail offers a great show en route to Panorama Point. Aspens and the Continental Divide also can be admired along the steeper Beaver Trail and longer Mountain Lion Trail.

Meyer Ranch Park: U.S. 285 leads to Kenosha Pass, one of autumn’s most popular destinations for Front Range travelers. Near Conifer, drivers are wise to pull off for this Jefferson County-owned park. Covering about four miles, the trail network is family-friendly and includes the aptly named Sunny Aspen Trail.

Colorado Springs

Cheyenne Mountain State Park: A massive aspen grove awaits near the mountaintop, but you’ll have to earn it. Talon Trail meets Dixon Trail, which ascends to the forest. You’re looking at a round trip of 15-plus miles. One bonus: bragging rights for scaling the second most famous mountain in Colorado Springs.

Mueller State Park: On the other side of Pikes Peak, in Teller County, the park’s 5,000 acres are loaded with aspen and trails for every kind of visitor. We love Cheesman Ranch loop. Look to Elk Meadow for a shorter loop. You also can’t go wrong with Outlook Ridge, with several spurs to stunning overlooks.

Seven Bridges: The colors aren’t as dramatic as other displays across the region’s high country. But local leaf peepers get their fix close to town in North Cheyenne Canon Park, a wild expanse just 10 minutes from downtown. From the top of the canyon, Seven Bridges Trail crosses the creek in a quaint forest.

MUELLER STATE PARK

David Bitton

STREETS OF GOLD

By Seth Boster

Off-highway drives showcase state’s fall colors

To witness some of Colorado’s best fall color displays, you have to get off the busy highways. Where the roads start to rumble, spirits come alive in vast, golden arrays. These are some of the finest off-highway destinations in the state.

Alpine Loop: First, pick your base camp: Lake City, Ouray or Silverton. Then decide if you’ve got the vehicle and driving know-how or if you’ll need to book an experienced guide. A high-clearance, fourwheel drive is especially necessary for the passes rising above 12,000 feet: Cinnamon and Engineer. The loop covers 63 miles of Rocky Mountain fantasy.

Boreas Pass: From 1872 to 1938, this was known as America’s highest narrow-gauge railroad. Cresting over the Continental Divide from Breckenridge, the fairly gentle railroad bed now serves leaf peepers who get an education of that locomotive era. The section house is at the top, where you’re likely to feel the notorious wind that railroaders felt.

Guanella Pass: The road from Georgetown is heavily trafficked by Denverites who don’t need a special rig to cover its 22 winding miles. The paved pass climbs through creek-fed aspen forests and meadows, up above treeline where 14,000-foot peaks soar in view. Guanella Pass is flanked by mounts Bierstadt and Blue Sky.

Kebler Pass: A sturdy passenger car will do for this dirt road out of Crested Butte. The tunnel of towering, mature aspen occasionally clears for views of the area’s legendary rock. That includes The Dyke, the much-photographed formation scraping the sky above hills known to turn gold and red.

Last Dollar Road: Where mining supplies once were carried, now sightseers roam the bone-rattling path between Ridgway and Telluride. It’s a tour of the senses spanning 21 miles — a tour through beauty that defined “True Grit.” The road travels historic ranch land against the jagged San Juan Mountains.

GUANELLA PASS

Christian Murdock